[WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b
aew at unh.edu
Thu Jul 21 10:05:46 EDT 2011
I tend to have to use accelerator more often with odorless, but other
than that no complaints.
On Thu, 2011-07-21 at 15:46 +0200, Crawford Neil wrote:
> I’m doing quite well with a combination of gas-mask and fume
> extractor. But I’ll certainly try and get hold
> of some Super Gold, thanks Allan.
> From: wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org]
> On Behalf Of Allan Wright
> Sent: den 21 juli 2011 15:22
> To: World War I Modeling Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b
> For those with CA allergies (I'm one) the new orderless versions are
> getting quite good. I still have a bottle of the 'real' stuff hanging
> around for certain tough jobs, but the odorless works for me 80% or
> more of the time. The "Super Gold" varieties seem to currently be the
> On Thu, 2011-07-21 at 15:15 +0200, Crawford Neil wrote:
> Well said D, I more or less use the same. With perhaps a little more plastic
> glue (from an old-fashioned tube) and a little less CA (because of my asthma).
> And less "mek", I've never done well with that, I get weak joints, or melted parts.
> And more CA, wait I just said less, ignore that. I can't do without CA for
> sharpening parts (trailing edges, wing-fillets, cowling edges) a bit of tape
> keeps the glue in place, and it dries rock-hard. And it transforms wood to plastic.
> I also use CA for attachment of wing-skins, because I can't handle "mek".
> To sum up, the important thing is to use everything, till you find what works best for you.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org] On
> > Behalf Of Diego Fernetti
> > Sent: den 21 juli 2011 14:43
> > To: World War I Modeling Mailing List
> > Subject: [WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b
> > Michael!
> > > Mainly because you have to use super glue to stick the bits together or
> > > worse,
> > > epoxy.
> > I usually use several kinds of glue on any injection molded kit: Epoxy for
> > the larger or load bearing joints (lower wing to fuselage, cabane struts,
> > horizontal stabilizer to fuselage, roots of undercarriage vees to
> > fuselage)
> > Two part epoxi glue can be thnned with acetone, or in these days of
> > substance restrictions, non-acetone nail polish remover (wonder what the
> > hell they put in it, smells nasty too). "Revell Contacta" plastic glue
> > for
> > melting the join of the fuselage halves.
> > "Mek" or thin plastic glue for larger surface features (veeeery sparingly
> > for skinning, but has good capillary action in small cracks, for instance
> > on
> > stressed lower wing joints. I have used it to join several pieces of
> > stretched sprue segments in structures, but with very little amounts as
> > they
> > could shorten the lenght of each structure members. Once set, however, it
> > gives a better resilience than contacta o than CA glue.
> > CA Glue for machine guns o other accesories that have positive attachment
> > points, like gun rings.
> > White glue for cockpit details and clear parts.
> > Matt varnish for PE parts and cockpit details (where white glue residues
> > might end visible on the final assembly).
> > > the problems really come in when you add the struts for the top wing and
> > > there's
> > > hardly any opportunity for adjustment and alignment.
> > Shit happens, but lately I've found that a temporary fix of the top end of
> > the struts with white glue, and then epoxi to the lower end, and later
> > cleaning up the white glue, and permanent fixing with epoxi diminishes the
> > chances of getting an skewed strut on final assembly. Gluing permanently
> > both ends of the struts at the same operation is complicated!
> > D.
> Allan Wright - Manager of Software Development
> Research Computing & Instrumentation
> University of New Hampshire
> (603) 862-0084
> aew at unh.edu
Allan Wright - Manager of Software Development
Research Computing & Instrumentation
University of New Hampshire
aew at unh.edu
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