[WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b

Crawford Neil Neil.Crawford at volvo.com
Thu Jul 21 09:46:58 EDT 2011

I’m doing quite well with a combination of gas-mask and fume extractor. But I’ll certainly try and get hold
of some Super Gold,  thanks Allan.

From: wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Allan Wright
Sent: den 21 juli 2011 15:22
To: World War I Modeling Mailing List
Subject: Re: [WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b

For those with CA allergies (I'm one) the new orderless versions are getting quite good. I still have a bottle of the 'real' stuff hanging around for certain tough jobs, but the odorless works for me 80% or more of the time. The "Super Gold" varieties seem to currently be the best.

On Thu, 2011-07-21 at 15:15 +0200, Crawford Neil wrote:

Well said D, I more or less use the same. With perhaps a little more plastic

glue (from an old-fashioned tube) and a little less CA (because of my asthma).

And less "mek", I've never done well with that, I get weak joints, or melted parts.

And more CA, wait I just said less, ignore that. I can't do without CA for

sharpening parts (trailing edges, wing-fillets, cowling edges) a bit of tape

keeps the glue in place, and it dries rock-hard. And it transforms wood to plastic.

I also use CA for attachment of wing-skins, because I can't handle "mek".

To sum up, the important thing is to use everything, till you find what works best for you.


> -----Original Message-----

> From: wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org<mailto:wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org> [mailto:wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org] On

> Behalf Of Diego Fernetti

> Sent: den 21 juli 2011 14:43

> To: World War I Modeling Mailing List

> Subject: [WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b


> Michael!

> > Mainly because you have to use super glue to stick the bits together or

> > worse,

> > epoxy.


> I usually use several kinds of glue on any injection molded kit: Epoxy for

> the larger or load bearing joints (lower wing to fuselage, cabane struts,

> horizontal stabilizer to fuselage, roots of undercarriage vees to

> fuselage)

> Two part epoxi glue can be thnned with acetone, or in these days of

> substance restrictions, non-acetone nail polish remover (wonder what the

> hell they put in it, smells nasty too).  "Revell Contacta" plastic glue

> for

> melting the join of the fuselage halves.

> "Mek" or thin plastic glue for larger surface features (veeeery sparingly

> for skinning, but has good capillary action in small cracks, for instance

> on

> stressed lower wing joints. I have used it to join several pieces of

> stretched sprue segments in structures, but with very little amounts as

> they

> could shorten the lenght of each structure members. Once set, however, it

> gives a better resilience than contacta o than CA glue.

> CA Glue for machine guns o other accesories that have positive attachment

> points, like gun rings.

> White glue for cockpit details and clear parts.

> Matt varnish for PE parts and cockpit details (where white glue residues

> might end visible on the final assembly).


> > the problems really come in when you add the struts for the top wing and

> > there's

> > hardly any opportunity for adjustment and alignment.


> Shit happens, but lately I've found that a temporary fix of the top end of

> the struts with white glue, and then epoxi to the lower end, and later

> cleaning up the white glue, and permanent fixing with epoxi diminishes the

> chances of getting an skewed strut on final assembly. Gluing permanently

> both ends of the struts at the same operation is complicated!

> D.

Allan Wright - Manager of Software Development
Research Computing & Instrumentation<http://rcc.sr.unh.edu>
University of New Hampshire<http://www.unh.edu/>
(603) 862-0084
aew at unh.edu<mailto:aew at unh.edu>

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