[WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b

Allan Wright aew at unh.edu
Thu Jul 21 09:22:17 EDT 2011

For those with CA allergies (I'm one) the new orderless versions are
getting quite good. I still have a bottle of the 'real' stuff hanging
around for certain tough jobs, but the odorless works for me 80% or more
of the time. The "Super Gold" varieties seem to currently be the best.

On Thu, 2011-07-21 at 15:15 +0200, Crawford Neil wrote:

> Well said D, I more or less use the same. With perhaps a little more plastic
> glue (from an old-fashioned tube) and a little less CA (because of my asthma).
> And less "mek", I've never done well with that, I get weak joints, or melted parts.
> And more CA, wait I just said less, ignore that. I can't do without CA for
> sharpening parts (trailing edges, wing-fillets, cowling edges) a bit of tape 
> keeps the glue in place, and it dries rock-hard. And it transforms wood to plastic.
> I also use CA for attachment of wing-skins, because I can't handle "mek".
> To sum up, the important thing is to use everything, till you find what works best for you.
> /Neil
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org] On
> > Behalf Of Diego Fernetti
> > Sent: den 21 juli 2011 14:43
> > To: World War I Modeling Mailing List
> > Subject: [WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b
> > 
> > Michael!
> > > Mainly because you have to use super glue to stick the bits together or
> > > worse,
> > > epoxy.
> > 
> > I usually use several kinds of glue on any injection molded kit: Epoxy for
> > the larger or load bearing joints (lower wing to fuselage, cabane struts,
> > horizontal stabilizer to fuselage, roots of undercarriage vees to
> > fuselage)
> > Two part epoxi glue can be thnned with acetone, or in these days of
> > substance restrictions, non-acetone nail polish remover (wonder what the
> > hell they put in it, smells nasty too).  "Revell Contacta" plastic glue
> > for
> > melting the join of the fuselage halves.
> > "Mek" or thin plastic glue for larger surface features (veeeery sparingly
> > for skinning, but has good capillary action in small cracks, for instance
> > on
> > stressed lower wing joints. I have used it to join several pieces of
> > stretched sprue segments in structures, but with very little amounts as
> > they
> > could shorten the lenght of each structure members. Once set, however, it
> > gives a better resilience than contacta o than CA glue.
> > CA Glue for machine guns o other accesories that have positive attachment
> > points, like gun rings.
> > White glue for cockpit details and clear parts.
> > Matt varnish for PE parts and cockpit details (where white glue residues
> > might end visible on the final assembly).
> > 
> > > the problems really come in when you add the struts for the top wing and
> > > there's
> > > hardly any opportunity for adjustment and alignment.
> > 
> > Shit happens, but lately I've found that a temporary fix of the top end of
> > the struts with white glue, and then epoxi to the lower end, and later
> > cleaning up the white glue, and permanent fixing with epoxi diminishes the
> > chances of getting an skewed strut on final assembly. Gluing permanently
> > both ends of the struts at the same operation is complicated!
> > D.

Allan Wright - Manager of Software Development
Research Computing & Instrumentation
University of New Hampshire
(603) 862-0084
aew at unh.edu
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://www.wwi-models.org/pipermail/wwi/attachments/20110721/3322ad6c/attachment.html>

More information about the WWI mailing list