[WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b

Crawford Neil Neil.Crawford at volvo.com
Thu Jul 21 09:15:58 EDT 2011

Well said D, I more or less use the same. With perhaps a little more plastic
glue (from an old-fashioned tube) and a little less CA (because of my asthma).
And less "mek", I've never done well with that, I get weak joints, or melted parts.
And more CA, wait I just said less, ignore that. I can't do without CA for
sharpening parts (trailing edges, wing-fillets, cowling edges) a bit of tape 
keeps the glue in place, and it dries rock-hard. And it transforms wood to plastic.
I also use CA for attachment of wing-skins, because I can't handle "mek".
To sum up, the important thing is to use everything, till you find what works best for you.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org] On
> Behalf Of Diego Fernetti
> Sent: den 21 juli 2011 14:43
> To: World War I Modeling Mailing List
> Subject: [WWI] Glues WAS: FE2b
> Michael!
> > Mainly because you have to use super glue to stick the bits together or
> > worse,
> > epoxy.
> I usually use several kinds of glue on any injection molded kit: Epoxy for
> the larger or load bearing joints (lower wing to fuselage, cabane struts,
> horizontal stabilizer to fuselage, roots of undercarriage vees to
> fuselage)
> Two part epoxi glue can be thnned with acetone, or in these days of
> substance restrictions, non-acetone nail polish remover (wonder what the
> hell they put in it, smells nasty too).  "Revell Contacta" plastic glue
> for
> melting the join of the fuselage halves.
> "Mek" or thin plastic glue for larger surface features (veeeery sparingly
> for skinning, but has good capillary action in small cracks, for instance
> on
> stressed lower wing joints. I have used it to join several pieces of
> stretched sprue segments in structures, but with very little amounts as
> they
> could shorten the lenght of each structure members. Once set, however, it
> gives a better resilience than contacta o than CA glue.
> CA Glue for machine guns o other accesories that have positive attachment
> points, like gun rings.
> White glue for cockpit details and clear parts.
> Matt varnish for PE parts and cockpit details (where white glue residues
> might end visible on the final assembly).
> > the problems really come in when you add the struts for the top wing and
> > there's
> > hardly any opportunity for adjustment and alignment.
> Shit happens, but lately I've found that a temporary fix of the top end of
> the struts with white glue, and then epoxi to the lower end, and later
> cleaning up the white glue, and permanent fixing with epoxi diminishes the
> chances of getting an skewed strut on final assembly. Gluing permanently
> both ends of the struts at the same operation is complicated!
> D.

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