[WWI] Vallejo primer was Acrylic primer

nick hamer hamerthehorrible at live.co.uk
Tue Dec 27 11:53:17 EST 2011

Never even thought of that stuff, yes, it is brilliant stuff, very close formula to the Halfords primers. Smells the same too. Great basis for acrylic and enamel paint. A little pricey, but top drawer spray primer! 

From: berggren.berggren at gmail.com
Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 16:53:26 +0100
To: wwi at wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: [WWI] Vallejo primer was Acrylic primer

I can recommend Games Workshops primer. It's absolutely fabulous. It isn't acrylic, so it needs to be sprayed in a well ventilated area, but it is worth it. The results perfect.It needs to be applied in short bursts, but the technique is mastered in a few tries on whatever you use for experimenting.I think they have three colours, but I have only used two, the chaos black and the bone white. Both are excellent.

Skickat från min iPhone
27 dec 2011 kl. 16:19 skrev Michael Kendix <mkendix at hotmail.com>:

That's why I liked Mr. Surfacer - it sands well but the problem, I think, and others appear to have found a similar issue, is that it sort of re-melts the glued areas -  where the glue is the plastic melding type, not superglue. Perhaps I need to let the glued areas cure more.  Another advantage of superglue.

I will try to find the acrylic primer at the hardware store. Halfords is a UK-based firm but we have equivalents here, I imagine. Thanks.

From: hamerthehorrible at live.co.uk
To: wwi at wwi-models.org
Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2011 15:09:46 +0000
Subject: Re: [WWI] Vallejo primer was Acrylic primer

Matt, I have some of the Vallejo primer, after having tried it a few times, it just doesn't quite 'cut the mustard' for me, I find it sits on top of the plastic/resin instead of really bonding with the surface, when you sand the stuff even with really fine grade wet n dry, it lifted at the edges of the abrasion very slightly, so you kind of get a step at the edge the sanded area. A real pain. It would be o.k. as a final layer before the actual paint goes on, or maybe I just didn't have the stuff thoroughly mixed, or leave it to dry long enough (12 hrs for an acrylic primer should be plenty though).

> Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2011 12:27:00 -0600> From: matt.bittner at cox.net
> To: wwi at wwi-models.org
> Subject: Re: [WWI] Acrylic primer
> FYI, Vallejo has a gray primer. I picked mine up from Sprue Brothers. 
> Haven't used it yet, though...
> Matt Bittner
> On 12/26/2011 11:34 AM, Michael Kendix wrote:
> > I was going to try and stay away from enamels. How hot can it be - Mr. 
> > Surfacer is lacquer-based. But, yes, I have some Testors' flat white 
> > enamel right here, and that does stick - I've used that on the movable 
> > flying surfaces of the Lloyd.
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > From: dfernet0 at rosario.gov.ar
> > To: wwi at wwi-models.org
> > Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2011 14:04:18 -0300
> > Subject: Re: [WWI] Acrylic primer
> >
> > No Krylon!
> > I heard that it may harm styrene as it somewhat "hot".
> > I don't always prime surfaces, but when I do, I use Gunze Sangyo Mr. 
> > Primer.
> > D.
> > “Stay primed, my friends.”
> >
> >     ----- Original Message -----
> >     *From:* Michael Kendix <mailto:mkendix at hotmail.com>
> >     *To:* list WWI modelling <mailto:wwi at wwi-models.org>
> >     *Sent:* Monday, December 26, 2011 2:11 PM
> >     *Subject:* [WWI] Acrylic primer
> >
> >     Hi:
> >
> >     I need to prime the plastic on the Llyod's exterior. I am off to
> >     the hardware store in an hour or so.  Is Krylon on good as a
> >     primer on models? I am trying something other than Mr. Surfacer.
> >
> >     Michael
> >
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