[WWI] Tamiya Clear Yellow.

[John Huggins]

Bill,
I have been using Future for over 20 years now, and had the same  
problem as you did early on.  I found two things that caused the  
orange peal effect.  One was I was putting a very light coat on first,  
and it was drying out prior to achieving its own leveling ability.   
This was due in part to spraying at a low air pressure (10 to 12 pas)  
and trying to skimp and only apply one coat as I did not want to have  
a thick payer of finish which would cover up some of the fine details.

When I increased the air pressure to around 18  to 20 psi and stopped  
thinning it, the results were much better.  I also started using two  
coats minimum.  The first was a light tack coat.  As it was applied,  
it would look like a bunch of little droplets on the surface.  By the  
time I had worked my way around the model, the beginning area had  
leveled its self out and was almost dry to the touch.  At this time, I  
put a wet coat, which was much smoother and dried to nice gloss  
finish.  The wet coat was very thin, and didn't hide any of the detail  
as I had feared.

Future is one of those finish materials that can be used for a large  
variety of things.  It can be mixed with Polly S/Polly Scale clear  
flat  to get any type of finish from gloss to dead flat.  It can be  
tinted with food colors to get any range of clear colors for various  
effects.  The most important thing I have found is the fact that over  
time, it does not yellow like the other packaged gloss and flat  
finishes produced by the various paint manufacturers. I have some  
models that are approaching the 20 year mark and don't have a hint of  
discoloration on them, unlike the ones that I have had that were over  
coated with Gloss Coat.  On these models, the white or light colored  
areas had all started to yellow within  a couple of years.

I have found that Future can be mixed with some of the newer acrylics  
that have a softer finish to make them very hard and durable, almost  
like a lacquer finish.  It can be brushed on an area and a stubborn  
decal floated into it and into position as it dries. It becomes a  
setting solution which self levels out to a very thin coat and traps  
the decal within.

Play with it, I think you will be very surprised  by what it can do,  
and what you can do with it.

JP
There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."




On May 5, 2009, at 9:35 AM, Bill Weckel wrote:

> It IS interesting how many different ways we have to achieve the  
> same ends, and how what works well for one person, can be a disaster  
> for another.  This is what I do:
>
> Although I have a large range of Model Master enamels, I've come to  
> use Tamiya and Gunze acrylics almost exclusively.  I use an Iwata HP  
> series airbrush at very low PSI ( >10).  I've experimented with  
> alcohol, windex, distilled water, etc... as thinners, but have found  
> that the paints perform best when using the manufacturer's thinner.   
> They also perform well using lacquer thinner, which is what I use to  
> clean the brush regardless of the type of paint I am using.  Lacquer  
> thinner will clean everything out of your airbrush easily.  The only  
> time I have trouble with clogging, is when I use acrylics thinned  
> with water or iso alcohol.  When I thin them with lacquer thinner or  
> the manufacturer's thinners, I never have trouble.  I usually thin  
> somewhere between 1:1 or 2:1 paint to thinner ratio.  When I do  
> spray enamels, I always thin with lacquer thinner.
>
> Regarding future, I've never liked it.  I can't seem to get a really  
> smooth finish from it - there is always a slight orange peel to it.   
> It might be that I'm not putting it on wet enough though.  For clear  
> coats, I like the Model Master clear lacquers.
>
> I also use the Tamiya and Gunze clear yellow and clear orange for  
> wood.  It warms up the wood effect nicely.
>
> Bill
>
>
>

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