[WWI] Brush painting WAS: Last Man Standing? Not me, I have been assimilated......possibly

[Mark Shannon]

As far as silver/metallic paints in general and MicroMesh sanding, it
depends more on the paint brand.  I find that the Floquil metallics can be
given a beautiful polish this way.  I have also had success with the
Testors Model Master automotive paints and Colors by Boyd line; since they
were designed for this treatment.  Bush painted, you will want to give them
about a week to dry before going at it, though.  Tamiya's fine grade polish
is also good on these.

When I have tried it with Humbrols, though, I have not had much success.  I
get the impression that their metallizing flakes 'float' to the top of the
paint layer as they dry, so when you sand with the MicroMesh you end up
taking off the shine.

I don't use many acrylics as 'field' colors -- only as detail paints -- so
I don't have much experience with them.  I am told that the 'Talon' brand
of metallics is very good. 

Mark Shannon
shingend at ix.netcom.com



> [Original Message]
> From: dave fleming <dave.fleming2 at dial.pipex.com>
> To: World War I Modeling Mailing List <wwi at wwi-models.org>
> Date: 5/1/2009 1:16:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [WWI] Brush painting WAS:  Last Man Standing? Not me,I have
been assimilated......possibly
>
> Quoting Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford at volvo.com>:
>
> >  
> > > 
> > > I don't think steel wool or micromesh would work too well on 
> > > silver paints though, would it? I've seen some truly 
> > > appalling brush painted "natural metal" paint jobs...
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > Just for arguments sake(!) how about painting a model in various 
> > shades of grey and then rubbing it with tin-foil
> > (kit-kat wrappers whatever) I think that could give a nice natural
> > metal finish without using an airbrush.
> > 
> Did you ever see the IPMS UK Best in show that was done in exactly that
way?
>
> Dave
>
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