[WWI] Roden's new 1/32 Alb. D.III

[Matt Bittner]

Ah, no, you're correct.  However, if you're careful with how you remove 
it, I bet you could figure out how to leave a little panel line left.

But I see you're point and MS is probably the route to take.


Matt Bittner


Jan Vihonen wrote:
> I'm not familiar with Apoxie Sculpt but I suppose it is a two part 
> epoxy, right? So I think it is more suitable to fill wing-to-fuselage 
> joints that do not necessary require a panel line to be left.
>
> My idea of using Mr.Surfacer is based on the fact that as a paint it 
> doesn't totally fill the Matchbox-style panel lines but rather 
> replaces thick and deep line with thin and petite one, when properly 
> done.
>
> I may have understood you wrong, Matt, since, as I said, I only know 
> Apoxie by name (and seem to remember it is used mainly to sculpt 
> figures and such). If so, please, feel free to correct me. I'm always 
> eager to learn new modelling tricks and methods.
>
> Jan
>
>
>> If you don't mind a little longer wait time, Apoxie Sculpt is 
>> awesome.  No sanding!!  I was able to fill in a wing-to-fuselage 
>> joint in an F4B-4 I'm working on with no sanding at all.  I am now a 
>> huge Apoxie convert.
>>
>>
>> Matt Bittner
>>
>>
>> Jan Vihonen wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>> The panel lines look the same to me. They remind me of the old 
>>>> Matchbox kits, whose panel lines were to big. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Easy way to fix this is simply over paint the panel lines with thick 
>>> paint (Mr. Surfacer 500 is perfect for this as it fills well and 
>>> dries fast), let dry, and sand. Repeat if necessary. Use Tritool 
>>> etched scriber saw or X-Acto blade tip to carefully clean the lines 
>>> if needed.
>>>
>>> Very simple, although admittedly it does take a little time and some 
>>> effort.
>>>
>>> Jan
>>>
>>
>>
>