[WWI] Bulding Spandaus

[ingersollle at gru.net]

Fred
Clarify for me, you put a cast iron plate on the burner with the PE jacket
in it and heat until the plate or PE part is a dull red?
Thanks for listing this info as I have not had much luck with annealing PE
parts.
TNX,
Ed
> I'd like to respond to comments/questions about difficulty in building
> Spandau guns - any scale. Rather than supplying a small encyclopedia of
> information, let me just say that our Spandaus use Harry Woodman's
> artwork(which is quite accurate if simple, and we use it by his sole
> permission - read his 1976 article!) and one of the main tricks is to
> anneal the jacket for rolling. This is easily done - do not use a "small"
> heat source - make sure you get the part(s) to about dull red heat(visible
> in a darkened room and quite adequate). We do this by putting something
> like a cast-iron plate(to spread the heat out) on our cooking
> appliance(gas in my case) and when it gets to dull red(a few minutes), you
> can slide the part off the heat with a toothpick or something. I do that
> right into the palm of my hand - they do not hold the heat - and presto! -
> soft as soft coper.
>  
> For rolling it, we do that on a rubber(resilient) pad with drill stock or
> something like that which should be just 3/4 of the desired diameter -
> even when soft there is a slight spring-back effect. For this exercise, pi
> = 3. Push down HARD, you can't hurt the parts. If you get it crooked, you
> can usually flatten it out and try again. In any case, we guarantee our
> stuff regardless of problem, just return it with an explanation.
>  
> Once rolled, you will find that the Fotokit parts just about snap together
> and you may use the paint as an adhesive!
>  
> Barrels can be made using hypodermic tubing(this has been discussed in a
> previous digest (day before yesterday, as I received it). Included in our
> instructions are the correct diameters for all the scales.
>  
> Most any paint can be used. We like good ol' Floquil, which used to be
> called "Roundhouse." It's solvent-based but that won't affect the brass
> parts and it stays on.
>  
> More questions? Just ask!
>  
> yours truly with wishes for Happy Modeling!
>  
> Fred Hultberg(resident etching wizard, Fotocut)
>
>
>
>