[WWI] Modeling 101 doubt - Micro Sol and Future

[Matt Bittner]

Thanks, Mark for that.  It does make sense afterall.  I've had it in
the past where I can even leave fingerprints in the Future if it hasn't
dried for at least 24 hours.

Again, thanks for clearing that up, Mark!!


Matt Bittner


On Thu, 5 Jun 2008 16:44:19 -0500, Mark Shannon wrote:

> So does Future.  But I don't see ammonia on the contents list of MicroSol
> nor smell it -- it appears to be mainly alcohol/acetate based with nonionic
> surfactants.  I have never had Future cloud with MicroSol if it has dried
> over 24 hours, even when I have gotten frustrated and flooded it on.  If
> there is ammonia in the mix, the same cautions apply, but I doubt that is
> the problem.  The curing time of Future after the tack-free time is HUGE.
> 
> Mark Shannon
> shingend at ix.netcom.com
> 
> 
> 
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Matt Bittner <matt.bittner at cox.net>
> > To: World War I Modeling Mailing List <wwi at wwi-models.org>
> > Date: 6/4/2008 8:35:59 PM
> > Subject: Re: [WWI] Modeling 101 doubt - Micro Sol and Future
> >
> > I think the answer is a little simpler than that.  I think it's because
> > Micro-sol has a little bit of ammonia in the mix.
> >
> >
> > Matt Bittner
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 4 Jun 2008 19:40:33 -0500, Mark Shannon wrote:
> >
> > > It really isn't a problem.  If you see the whitening appear, just do not
> > > touch anything.  The whitish fogginess will go away as everything
> dries.  A
> > > later coating to seal the decals will help, too.
> > > 
> > > Ways to avoid it in the first place are:
> > > 
> > > Let the Future coat dry at least 12, preferably 24 hours,
> > > Use the minimum amounts of MicroSol in any one application, and
> > > Use the thinnest coats of Future necessary to get a gloss coat.
> > > 
> > > What happens is that all acrylic and enamel paints and coatings have two
> > > drying times.  I'm not sure if it is a general term, but in the
> automotive
> > > paint industry the first is called the "tack-free time," and you often
> hear
> > > 'touch dry'.  This is the point at which you could place a cotton wool
> ball
> > > on the painted surface and pull it back off without leaving any strands
> > > behind (the test is to actually do this on a painted test sheet every
> five
> > > minutes until you leave no lint behind)  However, if you were to put
> some
> > > solvent on it it would dissolve and get mushy, or if you press on the
> paint
> > > at this stage, you would leave a fingerprint.
> > > 
> > > There is a final drying time, which is really a 'curing' time.  What is
> > > happening is that the shorter chains of the film producing chemical
> > > (acrylics, linseed, alkyd, or whatever) are fusing together into a
> polymer
> > > that will form the final coat.  With many hobby paints, there is an
> > > intermediate time when you can safely mask over the paint, even though
> it
> > > is not fully cured.  Future is like this -- since it was designed as a
> > > floor 'finish' it has a relatively short time before it won't lift up or
> > > take a fingerprint, but it really takes longer to cure -- sort of fully
> > > cured in about 48-60 hours, like the PollyScale paints.  In floor use,
> you
> > > can walk on it in thirty minutes, but it is designed to only slowly
> > > polymerize so that it is easy to strip for re-'finishing'.  If you
> check,
> > > you will see that Future gets glossier over about the first week.
> > > 
> > > So, letting it have a longer 'drying' time makes it more durable. 
> Shorter
> > > times mean that it is still not cured and will dissolve or soften with a
> > > mild solvent like MicroSol, but as the Sol evaporates out of the film it
> > > will leave not residue and no permanent damage -- unless you touch it or
> > > press or scrape during the time it was soft.
> > > 
> > > Lacquer paints have a different drying chemistry, but they still have a
> > > 'tack-free time' and a fully cured.
> > > 
> > > Mark Shannon
> > > shingend at ix.netcom.com
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > [Original Message]
> > > > From: Marcio Antonio Campos <marcio.antonio.campos at gmail.com>
> > > > To: World War I Modeling Mailing List <wwi at wwi-models.org>
> > > > Date: 6/4/2008 6:35:57 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [WWI] Modeling 101 doubt - Micro Sol and Future
> > > >
> > > > 2008/6/4 Rob Stewart <rob at rob-stewart.to>:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi,
> > > > > I have had no problems with that.
> > > > > What happens?
> > > >
> > > > It gets whitish around the decal. The best comparison I can imagine is
> > > > a glass after a long time in the freezer.
> > > >
> > > > All the best from Brazil
> > > >
> > > > Marcio
> > > 
> > > 
> >
> >
> 
>