[WWI] Spada Decals
Andy Bannister
a.bann at ntlworld.com
Wed Aug 29 12:48:38 EDT 2007
I always overcoat with clear and then give a light sanding with well worn
600 grit before the final finish coat. Blends in the thick edges nicely and
there's no visible carrier film.
Andy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org
> [mailto:wwi-bounces at wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Michael Kendix
> Sent: 29 August 2007 13:51
> To: wwi at wwi-models.org
> Subject: Re: [WWI] Spada Decals
>
>
> Andy:
>
> I find that when I trim the carrier film, as you have to on
> some decals such
> as Pegasus or Americal./Gryphon, it sometimes leaves a thick
> edge. Perhasp
> I'm being too hamfisted?
>
> Michael
>
>
> >From: Andy Bannister <a.bann at ntlworld.com>
> >Reply-To: World War I Modeling Mailing List <wwi at wwi-models.org>
> >To: World War I Modeling Mailing List <wwi at wwi-models.org>
> >Subject: Re: [WWI] Spada Decals
> >Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:32:10 +0000
> >
> >
> >Paul:
> > >
> > > There are some decals that are designed to be put on
> untrimmed - the
> > > philosophy is that the carrier film is feathered out at
> the edges,
> > > and
> >thus
> > > easier to blend in than a cut edge. Don't ask which
> manufacturers -
> > > that info self-destructed long ago.
> >
> >Any of the modern screen printed decals I would think, such as
> >Superscale,
> >Aeromaster, Eagle Strike, Scalemaster, etc. But you still
> have to cut them
> >out individually, no? Pesonally I prefer trimming as much
> carrier film as
> >possible off anyway as it's still visible close up, even if
> it is feathered
> >out at the edges.
> >Andy
> >
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