[WWI] Painting Decal Paper

John Huggins john at huggins-leahey.com
Fri Aug 6 09:47:07 EDT 2004

Another point that helps also.  Scuff up the surface of the clear decal 
film first.  Very fine steel wool, scotch bright pad or worn out 600 
grit sand paper.  This gives the paint something to grad hold of.

When you cut your strips, don't cut all the way through the backing 
paper.  Just use enough pressure to cut through the paint and decal 

On Aug 5, 2004, at 4:29 PM, Steven Perry wrote:

> Warren, I've had success with both. A couple of points:
> Paint all of your stock first, don't cut it into stripes until it is
> painted. The paint and overcoat of clear decal film or lacquer will 
> seal the
> edges and cause the decal film to rip when you try to slide it off.
> Do use a clear overcoat of clear decal film or clear lacquer.
> Make up only a little more than you plan to use. It tends to dry out 
> and get
> hard to use after a few weeks.
> Use only enough paint to get it opaque, too thick a coat of paint and 
> the
> decal gets hard to apply.. It can even curl up wth the painted side 
> inside.
> hth
> sp
>> Listers,
>>          I'm thinking of painting some clear decal paper to use for
>> stripes and roundels on a Nie.17 build.  Do acrylics work well for 
>> this?
>> Enamels?  Both?  I tried doing this one time before with disastrous
>> results, but I think that was due more to paint mixture/thinness and 
>> air
>> pressure settings.
>> TIA!
>> Warren

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