WWI Digest 4989 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list by "Michael Kendix" 2) Re: Dad by Ken Schmitt 3) Re: brush it by Ken Schmitt 4) Re: brush it by "Michael Kendix" 5) Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list by SSH 6) Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer by "Lance Krieg" 7) Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list by Balzer Mr Gregory P 8) Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list by Balzer Mr Gregory P 9) Re: brush it by SSH 10) Re: Nieuport 28's by "Bob Pearson" 11) RE: DWC - Pics by "Bob Pearson" 12) Tamiya thinning and Mr. Surfacer spraying; was 'brush it by "Mark Shannon" 13) Re: Future in Portugal by "Mark Shannon" 14) Re:Tamiya thinning and Mr. Surfacer spraying; was 'brush it by "Mark Shannon" 15) Re: Tamiya thinning and Mr. Surfacer spraying; was 'brush it by "Michael Kendix" 16) Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer by "Michael Kendix" 17) Re: Nieuport 28's by pfalzdvii@att.net 18) Re: Tamiya thinning and Mr. Surfacer spraying; was 'brush it by pfalzdvii@att.net 19) Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer by dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com 20) Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer by dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com 21) Re: Nieuport 28's by Mike Fletcher 22) Re: DWC - Pics by Mike Fletcher 23) Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer by xtv16@dial.pipex.com 24) Swiss Nie 28 by dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com 25) Re: RPM FT-17 by Eric GALLAUD 26) Re: DWC - Pics by "Bob Pearson" 27) RE: Roden Oeffad D.III blow out/ Was: Date for posting the New "old kits" list by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 28) RE: Roden Oeffad D.III blow out/ Was: Date for posting the New "old kits" list by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 29) Re: Nieuport 28's by "Diego Fernetti" 30) RE: Amodel's Nieuport IV by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 31) RE: Amodel's Nieuport IV by "Shane Weier" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 17:43:43 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Cc: balzergp@tecom.usmc.mil Subject: Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list Message-ID: >From: Balzer Mr Gregory P >Greg Balzer >P.S. Understand the posting time is 3:00 pm Mountain Time, which, >counting >backwards on my toes and fingers, would be 1:00 pm here in >the Eastern >Time Zone. Is this still the case? (And hey, take it easy, >I'm getting a >masters in Education, not Math or Geography!) I understand but don't you have to know the state capitals in order to be in "Recon"?:) Michael _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 11:55:35 -0600 From: Ken Schmitt To: Subject: Re: Dad Message-ID: well it's official. I must find a shirt with a target on it. > *chogh* AHEM! apologies Al, did not think it that blue....given the typical..fare..of late. you're the boss. won't happen again until next week. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 12:01:40 -0600 From: Ken Schmitt To: Subject: Re: brush it Message-ID: John: > .. For convenience, I use what's available at the local hobby > store...MM, Tamiya, and Polly. I understand though that Tamiya doesn't mix > with Future....(?) Tamiya doesn't like *itself*! Go thee to MM, PoloniusScale and sin no more. MistaKit is also a possibility. For CDL, use white primer or a beige that you've mixed. Grey you'll fight all the way up. Dodging the cleanup solvents is the real benefit. A tiny spot of handsoap dropped in the mix adds a surfactant. Otherwise, I use water and avoid all the other sorcery. The brush is the thing. CDL is 3+ coats, the last one almost a wash coat. Keep it wet. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 18:10:07 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: brush it Message-ID: >From: Ken Schmitt >Tamiya doesn't like *itself*! Odd stuff that, Tamiya. I think it was meant to be airbrushed only and thinned with its own thinner. A couple of questions here both of which have probably been dealt with but it's sort of slow day: 1. Has anyone succesfully used a thinner with tamiya other than Tamia's own thinner? 2. I'm considering airbrishing Mr. Surfacer as a primer. Is it better to use 1000 (less thick) or 500 (thicker)? I understand Mr. Color thinner is the best to use. How thin should the final mixture be? Do you use a little thinner or quite a lot to avoid the spider webs? Michael _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 13:29:23 -0500 From: SSH To: Subject: Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list Message-ID: <20030206183111.1E5B1690BC5@mail.mailsnare.net> Hey Greg, Try counting forward on your toes! 3pm Mountain time is not 1pm eastern time, unless you are talking of the mountains on the mountains in Santiago. regards Sanjeev ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 12:30:52 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer Message-ID: "Isn't there a section in the Squadron In Action book that has "Swiss Nieuports"?" Yes, I think you're right. Do you have this, or would you like me to check it? Let us know how you like airbrushing Mr. Surfacer, as I too am curious. FWIW, I have used a lot of gray automotive primer in rattle-cans, and they have many of the same virtues without running that heavy-bodied stuff through the airbrush. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 13:31:20 -0500 From: Balzer Mr Gregory P To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list Message-ID: Michael, Thanks, but Merrill just pointed out that I am longitudianlly challenged, it woudl actually be 17:00 EST, not 13:00! Sheeesh.... And they say the mind is the second thing to go!! Greg -----Original Message----- From: Michael Kendix [mailto:mkendix@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 12:45 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list >From: Balzer Mr Gregory P >Greg Balzer >P.S. Understand the posting time is 3:00 pm Mountain Time, which, >counting >backwards on my toes and fingers, would be 1:00 pm here in >the Eastern >Time Zone. Is this still the case? (And hey, take it easy, >I'm getting a >masters in Education, not Math or Geography!) I understand but don't you have to know the state capitals in order to be in "Recon"?:) Michael _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 13:37:45 -0500 From: Balzer Mr Gregory P To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list Message-ID: Thanks Sanjeev, Go ahead, dogpile on the jarhead! See you next week at the NoVA IPMS! Greg -----Original Message----- From: SSH [mailto:ot811@msbx.net] Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 1:33 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Re: Date for posting the New "old kits" list Hey Greg, Try counting forward on your toes! 3pm Mountain time is not 1pm eastern time, unless you are talking of the mountains on the mountains in Santiago. regards Sanjeev ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 14:00:25 -0500 From: SSH To: Subject: Re: brush it Message-ID: <20030206190212.7EF8C690BF9@mail.mailsnare.net> Michael, I was told that it has to be thinned more. My encounter with webs was a result of not thinnning the stuff (#1000) at all. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 10:58:30 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Nieuport 28's Message-ID: <104455849301@smtp-1.vancouver.ipapp.com> Overall silver as used by Switzerland is the only other scheme I can think of. Argentina had one or two, but who knows what they looked like - Diego? Bob ---------- >From: "Michael Kendix" >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Nieuport 28's >Date: Thu, Feb 6, 2003, 8:11 am > > I was wondering whether the Nieuport 28 appeared in schemes other than those > for French (5-colour) and the U.S. (during and after WWI)? Were there any in > use by the RFC/RAF or perhaps in the myriad of eastern European conflicts > that broke out after 1918 in Russia, Poland and so on? > > Michael > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 11:07:44 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: DWC - Pics Message-ID: <104455849601@smtp-1.vancouver.ipapp.com> >From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" > > Bob--I'm curious. Are you keeping track of how many hours you spend on this > project? It's looking VERY good. I can almost hear the engine revving > up.... I spent a few 8-10 hour days over the Christmas holidays getting the floats and tail done and the fuselage started. Since then it's been a few hours here or there. I often just slip downstairs for a few minutes and add a couple of parts to it. .. so I'm not really sure Bob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 13:12:58 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Tamiya thinning and Mr. Surfacer spraying; was 'brush it Message-ID: I have had some luck with Tamiya paints using distilled water from the grocery shelf (not Evian or Perrier) or 70% iso-propyl alcohol. I do not use the stuff, much, myself. I find it has poor contrast, low tolerance to variability, poor mixing, and poor color selection, as well as being a relatively fragile finish. YMMV, and that is just my experience. I do use their clear colors. On Mr. Surfacer you want to use the 1000 for spraying as a general primer. The 500 is for use as a correcting fluid for spot priming (that sanding scratch that didn't go away, the sinkmark in the outside surface where there is an inside locator spot, filling unwanted panel lines, etc.). I thin with lacquer thinner for spraying, but you can use iso-propyl alcohol as a brush thinner and brush cleaner. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 13:21:26 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Future in Portugal Message-ID: <<<>>> >PS: Chinchulines is ... how to put it delicately... a part of the >intestines of the cow. You don't wanna know about >"criadillas"! Ohhhhh, in Southern US, the same area of the pig becomes Chitlins! Originally 'poor man's' and freed slave's food, they were discovered, and became 'Soul Food" and have a fad existence. If you are subsistence farming, you don't waste any edible part - some of them are quite tasty! .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 13:29:27 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re:Tamiya thinning and Mr. Surfacer spraying; was 'brush it Message-ID: I said I do not use Tamiya paints. "I find it has poor contrast, low tolerance to variability, poor mixing, and poor color selection, as well as being a relatively fragile finish. " That should have read '...poor coverage....' On Mr. Surfacer I wanted to clarify that you can use iso-propyl alcohol to thin for spraying, as well as, as a brush thinner and brush cleaner. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 19:30:00 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Tamiya thinning and Mr. Surfacer spraying; was 'brush it Message-ID: >From: "Mark Shannon" Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 14:14:14 -0500 (EST) > >I have had some luck with Tamiya paints using distilled water from the >grocery shelf (not Evian or Perrier) or 70% iso-propyl alcohol. I do not >use the stuff, much, myself. I find it has poor contrast, low tolerance to >variability, poor mixing, and poor color selection, as well as being a >relatively fragile finish. YMMV, and that is just my experience. I do use >their clear colors. Unfortuate. I like their clear yellow a lo and was hoping the other stuff would be as good. >On Mr. Surfacer you want to use the 1000 for spraying as a general primer. >The 500 is for use as a correcting fluid for spot priming (that sanding >scratch that didn't go away, the sinkmark in the outside surface where >there is an inside locator spot, filling unwanted panel lines, etc.). I >thin with lacquer thinner for spraying, but you can use iso-propyl alcohol >as a brush thinner and brush cleaner. OK, thanks. Michael _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 19:31:26 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer Message-ID: >From: "Lance Krieg" > >"Isn't there a section in the Squadron In Action book that has "Swiss >Nieuports"?" > >Yes, I think you're right. Do you have this, or would you like me to >check it? I have it, thanks. >Let us know how you like airbrushing Mr. Surfacer, as I too am curious. > FWIW, I have used a lot of gray automotive primer in rattle-cans, and >they have many of the same virtues without running that heavy-bodied >stuff through the airbrush. My Paasche-H is fairly easy to clean so that should be OK. Michael _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 19:36:25 +0000 From: pfalzdvii@att.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Nieuport 28's Message-ID: <3E3088A0006207F8@mta1.wss.scd.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) The US Navy used 28's for testing into the 20's, they might have been silver or gray. -- Merrill Your Madness May Vary > Overall silver as used by Switzerland is the only other scheme I can think > of. Argentina had one or two, but who knows what they looked like - Diego? > > Bob > > ---------- > >From: "Michael Kendix" > >To: Multiple recipients of list > >Subject: [WWI] Nieuport 28's > >Date: Thu, Feb 6, 2003, 8:11 am > > > > > I was wondering whether the Nieuport 28 appeared in schemes other than those > > for French (5-colour) and the U.S. (during and after WWI)? Were there any in > > use by the RFC/RAF or perhaps in the myriad of eastern European conflicts > > that broke out after 1918 in Russia, Poland and so on? > > > > Michael > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. > > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 19:50:40 +0000 From: pfalzdvii@att.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Tamiya thinning and Mr. Surfacer spraying; was 'brush it Message-ID: <3E3088A0006221EF@mta1.wss.scd.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) I know a number of modelers (mostly armor, but they weather a lot more) who swear by Tamiya paints, and I use ALL of the 'clears' for various special effects, they are great. Tamiya's clear gloss is the clearest gloss coat around. I have used Tamiya paints for years, and they thin best with their own thinner, but most colors can be thinned with Floquil or Testors Acryl thinners, just don't get the darker colors too thin (the pigments can separate). Tamiya dries fairly quickly, and is much less fragile than Gunze, I have never had Tamiya lift when masking. Tamiya paints also touch up with a brush better than most acrylics, darker Polly S/Scale colors sometimes brush vs airbrush slightly different shades. FWIW -- Merrill Your Madness May Vary ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 20:04:54 +0000 From: dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com To: Subject: Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer Message-ID: <1044561894.3e42bfe655b30@netmail.pipex.net> Quoting Lance Krieg : > "Isn't there a section in the Squadron In Action book that has "Swiss > Nieuports"?" > > Yes, I think you're right. Do you have this, or would you like me to > check it? > I checked - there's no mention of Swiss Nie 28s in the Neiuport Fighters in Action book. There is US Navy one in Aluminium though. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 20:06:25 +0000 From: dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com To: Subject: Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer Message-ID: <1044561985.3e42c0414aca0@netmail.pipex.net> Someone was looking for alternative schemes for the Siemens-Schuckert DIII? I found this Belgian one: http://ibelgique.ifrance.com/baha2/Webpages/Navigator/Photos/MilltaryPics/ww1_pr ecurseurs/siemens.htm Watch wrapping! Dave ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 15:08:55 -0500 From: Mike Fletcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Nieuport 28's Message-ID: <3E42C0D7.DE0F770C@rogers.com> See http://mars.ark.com/~mdf/N_28.html for a selection of N.28's. Missing are a slim possibility of a Greek N.28 (probably a misidentified N.27), a more normally painted Argentine N.28, and the odd special scheme used post war in the US. A number were used by the Nieuport school in France and it was offered briefly as a 2 seat high speed courier though I don't know if they actually sold any. No RAF/Polish/Russian/Turk examples though. At least one of the Swiss machines was painted green and if you've got the Revell 1/72 kit the cowling is actually correct for an ex-USAS Swiss machine that had been interned after a marginally successful landing there. Mike Fl. Michael Kendix wrote: > > I was wondering whether the Nieuport 28 appeared in schemes other than those > for French (5-colour) and the U.S. (during and after WWI)? Were there any in > use by the RFC/RAF or perhaps in the myriad of eastern European conflicts > that broke out after 1918 in Russia, Poland and so on? > > Michael ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 15:12:01 -0500 From: Mike Fletcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: DWC - Pics Message-ID: <3E42C191.CFD54B62@rogers.com> The Nieuport-Macchi N.17 was better built than the French examples at least according to the Germans. I haven't read anything that said if it flew better or not though. Mike Fl. Crawford Neil wrote: > > > > Neil, it has nothing to do with quality control, the Nimrod > > (militarised Comet) > > was never really 'mass produced', they were built (at best) > > in very small > > batches, with changes between. Very OT construction style, > > with very OT results. > > Yes, very true, I can think of a few examples of OT license built > aircraft which were worse than the original, can't think of any > that were better, but I'm sure there were. > /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 20:23:02 +0000 From: xtv16@dial.pipex.com To: Subject: Re: Nieuport 28's and Mr. Surfacer Message-ID: <1044562982.3e42c4264a5b6@netmail.pipex.net> Quoting dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com: > > Quoting Lance Krieg : > > > "Isn't there a section in the Squadron In Action book that has "Swiss > > Nieuports"?" > > > > Yes, I think you're right. Do you have this, or would you like me to > > check it? > > > > I checked - there's no mention of Swiss Nie 28s in the Neiuport Fighters > in > Action book. > Ooops, to clarify, there are no photos of Swiss Nie 28s. there is a little bit of text. One is preserved in Lucerne Dave ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 20:28:48 +0000 From: dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com To: Subject: Swiss Nie 28 Message-ID: <1044563328.3e42c580a1ddb@netmail.pipex.net> > One is preserved in Lucerne > And here it is: http://www.verkehrshaus.ch/en/museum/images/luftfahrt2.jpg ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 21:39:49 +0100 From: Eric GALLAUD To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: RPM FT-17 Message-ID: <3E42C815.6090209@club-internet.fr> Last week, I received 2 FT17 (rounded and octagonal turrets), with the 2 photo etched sets. Amazing, you can build the driver compartment, there are a lot of parts and they are attached to the grap (?) with very thin attachments (be careful not to loose some ;-) ) I also received the Ardpol Aeromarine 39B floatplane. Very well cast as usual but no idea of the accuracy. It will look very nice with its engine with absolutely no cover on it. the photo etched elements provided are from Part. Eric pfalzdvii@att.net a écrit: >Matt, wait! you have to get the Part PE set for that kit. > >-- >Merrill >Your Madness May Vary > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 12:54:54 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: DWC - Pics Message-ID: <104456490301@smtp-2.vancouver.ipapp.com> Oeffag D.III was reportedly better than the German D.III and D.V/Va Bob ---------- >From: Mike Fletcher > The Nieuport-Macchi N.17 was better built than the French examples at > least according to the Germans. I haven't read anything that said if it > flew better or not though. > > Mike Fl. > > Crawford Neil wrote: >> Yes, very true, I can think of a few examples of OT license built >> aircraft which were worse than the original, can't think of any >> that were better, but I'm sure there were. >> /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 07:56:28 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: RE: Roden Oeffad D.III blow out/ Was: Date for posting the New "old kits" list Message-ID: <001501c2ce22$38637fd0$314e2dcb@future> I didn't say a word about Magpies. It was that rough guy from down south of me. ;-) With my Oeffag I am going to split the wing for a 3rd time and use StY way of lining all 3 parts up. Anyone got any ideas of pinning the wing? Use brass rod maybe? Cheers Ross -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Michael Kendix Sent: Friday, 7 February 2003 12:41 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Roden Oeffad D.III blow out/ Was: Date for posting the New "old kits" list Ross: What are you talking about? Magpies? Football season is 2/3 of the way through and the Magpies are third - still in contention for the title but only an outside bet. On a more serious note (well, not too serious), I was unable to recover from the constant sanding of my Roden Oeffag D.III S.253. Whatever I put in those blasted fuselage seams, I couldn't get them to disappear. I finally had sanded down too far so that the wing's holes on the fuselage sides had disappeared below the horizon, so to speak. Of course, the top wing is done and the rest of the kit is OK. I tried filling with, Milliput, thick super glue, thin super glue, Mr Surfacer, & typerwriter correction fluid. The good news is that it's only a $8 kit.:) Onto the next universe! Michael >From: "NEIL EDDY" > >Yessssssssssssssss.....footy season is coming around soon. :- ) > >AtB > >Neil E >(Magpies) _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 08:01:00 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: RE: Roden Oeffad D.III blow out/ Was: Date for posting the New "old kits" list Message-ID: <001601c2ce22$da0adc70$314e2dcb@future> By pinning I mean when I attach it to the fuselage. I haven't finished my first cup of coffee for the morning so don't expect me to be clear headed. ;-( Cheers Ross -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Ross & Wendy Moorhouse Sent: Friday, 7 February 2003 7:58 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] RE: Roden Oeffad D.III blow out/ Was: Date for posting the New "old kits" list I didn't say a word about Magpies. It was that rough guy from down south of me. ;-) With my Oeffag I am going to split the wing for a 3rd time and use StY way of lining all 3 parts up. Anyone got any ideas of pinning the wing? Use brass rod maybe? Cheers Ross -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Michael Kendix Sent: Friday, 7 February 2003 12:41 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Roden Oeffad D.III blow out/ Was: Date for posting the New "old kits" list Ross: What are you talking about? Magpies? Football season is 2/3 of the way through and the Magpies are third - still in contention for the title but only an outside bet. On a more serious note (well, not too serious), I was unable to recover from the constant sanding of my Roden Oeffag D.III S.253. Whatever I put in those blasted fuselage seams, I couldn't get them to disappear. I finally had sanded down too far so that the wing's holes on the fuselage sides had disappeared below the horizon, so to speak. Of course, the top wing is done and the rest of the kit is OK. I tried filling with, Milliput, thick super glue, thin super glue, Mr Surfacer, & typerwriter correction fluid. The good news is that it's only a $8 kit.:) Onto the next universe! Michael >From: "NEIL EDDY" > >Yessssssssssssssss.....footy season is coming around soon. :- ) > >AtB > >Neil E >(Magpies) _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 21:05:37 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Nieuport 28's Message-ID: >Overall silver as used by Switzerland is the only other scheme I can think >of. Argentina had one or two, but who knows what they looked like - Diego? Overall red (check Mike F. pages for a nice profile) both were intended for record purposes, no military machines. Maybe Martín can find a picture. I wasn't still able to do it. D. _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 08:08:19 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: RE: Amodel's Nieuport IV Message-ID: <001d01c2ce23$dfd9df10$314e2dcb@future> Are the covered wheels in this kit the right size? Cheers Ross ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 07:34:58 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Amodel's Nieuport IV Message-ID: Neil >And I think it's OK for a Swedish one too. I got a couple of >answers on the Swedish froum, with quotes from various reference >books, all 10.9m. Great, and since the kit comes with appropriate decals all is sweet. Except.... >Still got the spoked wheel problem though. Need some teeny weeny etching done. By way of comparison, the wheels are 7mm diameter including tyres, while those on the Toko Nie-11 (a rather smaller aircraft in span anyway) are 10mm diameter Shane ******************************** My Strine is a Toad in Disguise ******************************** _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4989 **********************