WWI Digest 4976

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Fw: RE: Caproni
	by Clay W Fulcher <mtngoat01@juno.com>
  2) Re: Hyperscale today.....
	by xtv16@dial.pipex.com
  3) Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
	by "Mark Shannon" <MSHANNON@tceq.state.tx.us>
  4) Re: the Dylan-Dylan poetry contest
	by Ken Schmitt <knnths@mchsi.com>
  5) Re: Fw: Caproni
	by tbittners@sprintmail.com (Matt Bittner)
  6) Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
	by "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
  7) Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
	by dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com
  8) Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
	by "Pedro N. Soares" <pnsoares@naer.pt>
  9) Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
	by MARK MILLER <mark_.m@sbcglobal.net>
 10) Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
	by "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
 11) Re: Cellulose Thinners vs. Lacquer Thinners
	by "Mark Shannon" <MSHANNON@tceq.state.tx.us>
 12) Re: Space Shuttle
	by BRENT THEOBALD <brent524@comcast.net>
 13) re: update Tony Bell's Albatros
	by "jean pascal maire" <jean_pascal.maire@tiscali.fr>
 14) Site update:Fokker Dr.I and Gunze thinner
	by "Fraser" <fraserinprague@volny.cz>
 15) Re: Site update:Fokker Dr.I and Gunze thinner
	by SSH <ot811@msbx.net>
 16) Fok DVII brass engine
	by SSH <ot811@msbx.net>
 17) Re: New Lozenge Article
	by "Nikboy" <nikboy@cox.net>
 18) Re: Fw: Caproni
	by BRENT THEOBALD <brent524@comcast.net>
 19) Re: Spoked wheel qn/ans #2
	by SSH <ot811@msbx.net>
 20) Re: New Lozenge Article
	by Allan Wright <aew@mustang.sr.unh.edu>
 21) New model by Fraser May
	by Allan Wright <aew>
 22) Re: Spoked wheel qn/ans #2
	by Tom Plesha <plesha3@yahoo.com>
 23) Re: Fw: Caproni
	by "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
 24) Re: Fw: Caproni
	by BRENT THEOBALD <brent524@comcast.net>
 25) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint
	by "Bob Laskodi" <laskodi@launchnet.com>
 26) more eBay stuff
	by Peter Foley <pdfoley@cogeco.ca>
 27) contest Orlando, FL
	by "Michael Stanley" <mstanley@tampabay.rr.com>
 28) Re: contest Orlando, FL
	by "Steven Perry" <sperry03@tampabay.rr.com>
 29) Alb D.III
	by SSH <ot811@msbx.net>
 30) Re: more eBay stuff
	by Zulis@aol.com
 31) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint
	by "Shane Weier" <bristolf2b@hotmail.com>

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 09:39:07 -0700
From: Clay W Fulcher <mtngoat01@juno.com>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Fw: RE: Caproni
Message-ID: <20030203.093908.3348.6.mtngoat01@juno.com>

Neil suggested that I post this, so that you can all be jealous.
--Clay

--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
To: "'Clay W Fulcher'" <mtngoat01@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 17:28:26 +0100
Subject: RE: Caproni

You could be killed for less! 
/Neil
Ps, You should post this to the list, they will be very interested.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clay W Fulcher [mailto:mtngoat01@juno.com]
> Subject: Caproni
> 
> Yes I just looked at the Meikraft Caproni. It is a thing of beauty.
> High-quality moulded parts, bag full of metal parts, .004" real wood
> sheet for covering (never saw that before), tons of photo-etch,
excellent
> decals, and some kind of thread for the rigging. All for $3.00. 

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 16:42:04 +0000
From: xtv16@dial.pipex.com
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: Hyperscale today.....
Message-ID: <1044290524.3e3e9bdc76640@netmail.pipex.net>


Quoting Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>:

> > 
> > (b) It was bought about 12 years ago, and taken that long to build
> 
> Should be really good then!
> > 
>
Hahahaha! It's SFTB - total build time will be about 6 hours!

I'm using it as my logjam buster.

Dave Fleming

nb Several OT subjects, and a Fokker
nl Bruce Springsteen The Rising
nr Computer screen



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 11:04:14 -0600
From: "Mark Shannon" <MSHANNON@tceq.state.tx.us>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
Message-ID: <se3e4cb8.018@smtpgate.tceq.state.tx.us>

It looks like Dana used the oil wash, wipe technique for the grain. 

I use a different method, and I do differentiate panels.  You can see an example of it in the Albatros Cook-up Gallery.  I do my technique with dry-brushing and have described it before.

I have found since I did the Voss Albatros D.III that the panels were oriented so the external veneer's grain was along the length of the fuselage, not 'random' choice or oriented in different directions based on the expected stresses.  One would expect less visible differentiation of panel grain, and so less problem with doing the 'wipe down' along the fuselage length in replicating it.

I guess the e-mail version of a shrug is YMMV. <-shrug-> Different approaches, and looking at the results in this case, I wish mine looked as good close-up.

.Mark.

<<<<Dave Fleming asks:>>>>

>One aspect of it does set me thinking, and I've had the same thoughts about 
>other Albie models. The method he used for his grain (and it looks superb IMO, 
>just the right shade of colour that would look 'dark' on a BW photo) runs the 
>grain across the panel lines, as if it's all one piece of wood.
>
>Doesn't the real thing (and I only have photos of STROPP) have different grain 
>on each panel?
>
>Have others considered this? Anyone done it? When I did my 1/72 one, I did each 
>panel one at a time to get the effect I was looking for, but I used a 
>completely different method.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 11:08:26 -0600
From: Ken Schmitt <knnths@mchsi.com>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: the Dylan-Dylan poetry contest
Message-ID: <BA63FE2A.290A%knnths@mchsi.com>

because the cops don't need you and man they expect the same.

> started out in burgundy but soon hit the harder stuff....

he looked fine at first and left here looking like a ghost.



the pump don't work cos the vandals took the handles.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:53:45 -0600 (CST)
From: tbittners@sprintmail.com (Matt Bittner)
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Caproni
Message-ID: <200302031653.h13Grj147669@king1.kingsnake.com>


> Neil suggested that I post this, so that you can all be jealous.
> decals, and some kind of thread for the rigging. All for $3.00. 

Cripes.  Didn't this recently go for $120 on ebay?  Brent, didn't you bid
on it? ;-)

I wonder if we can convince Roden to move into other bombers...hmmm...


Matt
 


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 17:20:07 +0000
From: "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
Message-ID: <F120fEAkqBiBsbrL1SC000005c6@hotmail.com>

Dave Fleming writes::

>runs the grain across the panel lines, as if it's all one piece of >wood.
>
>Doesn't the real thing (and I only have photos of STROPP) have >different 
>grain on each panel?

I agree and I've tried a number of things.  My favourite method I term the 
"David Solosy Method" or "DSM" because I first saw it used on his build of 
the 1/72nd scale Eduard Albatros D.V :). This involves spraying a base 
colour like "Wood" and lightening up a few panels - with "Wood+White".  That 
alone serves to differentiate the panels.  Then do the grain effect - using 
water colour gouache paints - burnt umber, ochre etc. applied with water and 
a Q-tip.  You sort of sweep the watercolour around and you can do it for 
each panel if you want.  Cover with Tamiya "clear yellow" and finally Future 
to give some more depth.

Regardless of this the model under discussion on "Hotwash" is outstanding.

Michael

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 17:26:56 +0000
From: dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
Message-ID: <1044293216.3e3ea660cf3e0@netmail.pipex.net>


Quoting Michael Kendix <mkendix@hotmail.com>:

> <snip interesting technique> 
> Regardless of this the model under discussion on "Hotwash" is
> outstanding.
> 
Agreed!



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 17:26:24 -0000 
From: "Pedro N. Soares" <pnsoares@naer.pt>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B302A2952C@TUFAO>

Michael,

You've oprobably have answered this before, but how do you mask on
"gouached" panels? doesn't the gouache stick to the masking tape ruinning
the effect?

I want to try this technique on my 2 DIIIs

Thanks
Pedro

>
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 09:28:54 -0800 (PST)
From: MARK MILLER <mark_.m@sbcglobal.net>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
Message-ID: <20030203172854.79148.qmail@web80009.mail.yahoo.com>

Dave
I believe you are correct.
the panel lines represent where one piece of plywood
starts and another begins, so they would have
different grain.

One thing, I've recently been informed that the grain
on all the panels runs front to back.
On my virtual model I have some panels with the grain
running in the other direction...
oh well 

Mark


--- dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com wrote:
> 
> Quoting MARK MILLER <mark_.m@sbcglobal.net>:
> 
> > Realy clean build
> > impressive work.
> > And the photography is extremly well done
> > 
> 
> I think it's a fantastic model - I really like the
> understated weathering, and 
> the fact that although you can see 'how' the
> weathering is done close up, it 
> doesn't look 'wrong'.
> 
> One aspect of it does set me thinking, and I've had
> the same thoughts about 
> other Albie models. The method he used for his grain
> (and it looks superb IMO, 
> just the right shade of colour that would look
> 'dark' on a BW photo) runs the 
> grain across the panel lines, as if it's all one
> piece of wood.
> 
> Doesn't the real thing (and I only have photos of
> STROPP) have different grain 
> on each panel?
> 
> Have others considered this? Anyone done it? When I
> did my 1/72 one, I did each 
> panel one at a time to get the effect I was looking
> for, but I used a 
> completely different method.
> 
> 
> Dave
> 
> 


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 17:32:33 +0000
From: "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
Message-ID: <F98DlW4wFPYTbtQYM9Z00006e9e@hotmail.com>

Pedro:

No masking is necessary.
1. Paint/spray base wood colour.
2. Mask off and spray or hand brush lighter panels (I handbrush).
3. Add goache watercolur with Q-tip.
4. Spray Tamiya Clear Yellow.
5. Handbrush Future.

If yo need to mask after that, then you can mask the Future covered surface.


Michael


>From: "Pedro N. Soares" <pnsoares@naer.pt>
>Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org
>To: Multiple recipients of list <wwi@wwi-models.org>
>Subject: [WWI] Re: Worth a look on Hotwash....
>Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 12:29:45 -0500 (EST)
>
>Michael,
>
>You've oprobably have answered this before, but how do you mask on
>"gouached" panels? doesn't the gouache stick to the masking tape ruinning
>the effect?
>
>I want to try this technique on my 2 DIIIs
>
>Thanks
>Pedro
>
> >
> >


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 11:35:41 -0600
From: "Mark Shannon" <MSHANNON@tceq.state.tx.us>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: Cellulose Thinners vs. Lacquer Thinners
Message-ID: <se3e5414.009@smtpgate.tceq.state.tx.us>

This is not my area of expertise, I only know what I read in the papers.

That said, if anyone wants to look up the contents of their thinners, the manufacturer is required to post a 'Material Safety Data Sheet' for all 'chemical' products - most put it on the web.

A Lacquer thinner is going to contain solvents that do a good job of mixing everything.  Most typically, they contain xylene (dimethyl benzene), and other compounds like denatured alcohol and butanol.  They used to be very hot stuff, with benzene, toluene, and such. (Like the old 'Dio-Sol')

A cellulose thinner is based on xylene and acetone.  It also contains butyl acetates (in the example I looked up, n-butyl and sec-butyl).  Cellulosic lacquers and varnishes use toluene, xylene, propanol, butanone, pentanone, and butyl acetate in the carrier solvent (what is in the paint can to keep everything fluid).

The big difference, then, is the acetone versus aromatic organic solvents.  because the acetate esters are small portions.  Cellulose thinners are 'hot' and quick evaporating.  The vapors are potentially harmful in the short run with some risk of long term harm.  They are especially flammable, since an airbrush is pretty similar to a motor's fuel injectors and acetone has an extremely low flashpoint (temperature at which enough vapor can be generated to provide a flammable mixture in air)

Both they and lacquer thinners used to contain a lot of real nasties that would make a Harry Potter type potion sound pleasant.  Now, between health risks and ozone preservation, the benzene, carbon tetrachloride, methylene chloride, perchloroethylene ('perc'), and such are gone, but they are still not something to take lightly.

Why people like cellulosic thinners for Humbrol paints seems to go back to the old days, too.  I have several very ancient Humbrol Authentics tins that are still useful, and they smell of 2,4-pentanedione (the old shoe polish smell), butanol, and aromatics - similar to the older cellulosics mixture.  Modern cellulosic thinners and Humbrol Super enamels may not be as simpatico in all respects, but people seem to get a bit of advantage from the bit of acetone.

Try them, with proper safety considerations and plenty of fresh, moving air in the spray area.  Just remember, though, that our OT aircraft manufacturers had a term for people who spent a lot of time painting with cellulose dopes - dopey.  It still applies.

.Mark.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 11:43:04 -0600
From: BRENT THEOBALD <brent524@comcast.net>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Space Shuttle
Message-ID: <7cb107c622.7c6227cb10@icomcast.net>

Howdy,

I look forward to the future where people can marvel that anyone would 
consent to travel in such a fragile machine as the Columbia. Much as we 
do about the WWI aviators today.

Brent



----- Original Message -----
From: Zulis@aol.com
Date: Saturday, February 1, 2003 12:11 pm
Subject: [WWI] Space Shuttle

> 
> I cannot help but be amazed at the way our world communicates in 
> the year 2003.
> 
> A man in Texas was in his back yard, having his morning coffee, 
> when he saw what he thought was a meteorite.  He called his wife, 
> who decided to get her digital camera and take some pictures.  
> They then went inside, turned on the tv, and heard CNN saying that 
> something was wrong with the shuttle...  and only THEN did they 
> hear the sonic boom from the event.   They immediately sent their 
> digital pics to CNN by email and they were shown to the world.    
> And here we are, scattered all over the world, discussing it in a 
> newsgroup.
> I know this has been an "ot" sort of morning, but compare the 
> paragraph above with the information fog which prevailed 
> throughout the Great War.    Sometimes I am amazed that we are 
> able to reconstruct anything at all from that period.
> 
> Feeling sad and contemplative,
> 
> Dave Z.
> 
> 


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 18:48:05 +0100
From: "jean pascal maire" <jean_pascal.maire@tiscali.fr>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: re: update Tony Bell's Albatros
Message-ID: <002701c2cbac$691d0c40$a50f24d5@sn3892387067>

Your kit is very beautiful, more particurlarly the wood's fuselage.....
Better than mine, I've a lot of work.....
jp


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 18:52:51 +0100
From: "Fraser" <fraserinprague@volny.cz>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Site update:Fokker Dr.I and Gunze thinner
Message-ID: <000701c2cbad$17bc91d0$fe78a8c0@pc145681>

Oops,
Uhhhh, it's Kirchstein, not Rumey, Sanjeev...or Kirchmeir as some loose
demon made me write - a premature Senior Citizen moment on my part, anyway.
Being in lurk mode this has probably already been said, but I find cheapo
alchohol from the local hardware shop works fine with Gunze Sangyo paints
and is probably no more toxic than what I usually drink....could this have
anything to do with mis-spelling Kirchheimsteinmeir??
Cheers
Fraser


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 13:39:47 -0500
From: SSH <ot811@msbx.net>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: Site update:Fokker Dr.I and Gunze thinner
Message-ID: <20030203184111.3DB16690BC8@mail.mailsnare.net>

Fraser,
    Sorry about the Rumey - Kirschwasser mixup.
All fixed now,... I think.
regards
Sanjeev




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 13:45:13 -0500
From: SSH <ot811@msbx.net>
To: wwi-list <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Fok DVII brass engine
Message-ID: <20030203184635.43998690BC8@mail.mailsnare.net>

Ken Foran,
    I have been following your Fok DVII progress with interest and 
wonder.
   Also how do you build the radiator and the engine?
thanks in advance
Sanjeev



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:53:42 -0800
From: "Nikboy" <nikboy@cox.net>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: New Lozenge Article
Message-ID: <00c001c2cbb5$9281e2a0$5ed50644@sd.cox.net>

Allan, for us newbys could you point us in the right direction for Mark's
new article?  Thanks,
Nick Vanmatre



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 12:49:03 -0600
From: BRENT THEOBALD <brent524@comcast.net>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Caproni
Message-ID: <a8756a81b1.a81b1a8756@icomcast.net>

Howdy!

> Cripes.  Didn't this recently go for $120 on ebay?  Brent, didn't 
> you bid on it? ;-)

Nope! Wasn't me!  That price isn't unreasonable though. I have seen 
them go for that. I bid somewhat more on the Aero Club (ot alert!) 1/48 
Vulcan.

> I wonder if we can convince Roden to move into other bombers...hmmm...

I have a theory that airplanes that appear in Roden's boxart are future 
releases. I forget which fighter it is (Berg D.I?) that showed a 
Caproni under attack. Hmmm? Not impossible. Afterall they made a series 
of Gothas.

Later!

Brent

"He has delusions of adequacy"

"Somewhere, a village is missing its idiot."


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 13:49:33 -0500
From: SSH <ot811@msbx.net>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: Spoked wheel qn/ans #2
Message-ID: <20030203185054.5C605690BCE@mail.mailsnare.net>

Tom,
    I am half way through making the spoked wheels and I have a 
question for you.
    I made the wheels in two halves, but one hub.  The wheel halves 
are stuck to the hub - (so it now looks like a tall spool).  next 
step is to press and glue the halves together.  But, because of the 
tension in the spokes it is not easy to 'cone' them - the tyre halves 
tend to buckle.
    How did you address this problem.
thanks in advance
Sanjeev



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 13:56:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Allan Wright <aew@mustang.sr.unh.edu>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: New Lozenge Article
Message-ID: <200302031856.NAA51742@mustang.sr.unh.edu>

It's in the modeling information files section.

Also linked from the news page.

Al

> 
> Allan, for us newbys could you point us in the right direction for Mark's
> new article?  Thanks,
> Nick Vanmatre
> 
> 
> 


===============================================================================
Allan Wright Jr.            | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside
University of New Hampshire +--------------------------------------------------
Research Computing Center   | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org
Internet: aew@unh.edu       | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org
===============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 14:05:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Allan Wright <aew>
To: wwi
Subject: New model by Fraser May
Message-ID: <200302031905.OAA51709@mustang.sr.unh.edu>

Fraser,

   Wonderful work on that Albatros man! The masking alone must have taken
hours!

Allan

===============================================================================
Allan Wright Jr.            | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside
University of New Hampshire +--------------------------------------------------
Research Computing Center   | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org
Internet: aew@unh.edu       | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org
===============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 11:14:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Plesha <plesha3@yahoo.com>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Spoked wheel qn/ans #2
Message-ID: <20030203191409.1059.qmail@web40307.mail.yahoo.com>

You need to make a pressing jig.  I used balsa wood.  
FWIW-
Here's how I did it.
-cut 2 squares of balsa larger then the wheel OD by
about a quarter of an inch plus all around.
..
-clamp together and drill a hole thru both the size of
the I D of the wheel.
..
-you can now locate using the hole and it won't
interfere with the spokes nor the hub.
..
-I also trimmed down one section of the balsa blocks
to the OD of the wheel, again for locating and
aligning.
..
-I pressed/clamped them together a bit, waited a
couple of hours, pressed together a bit more, etc
until they were together and left them overnight to
stretch the spokes.
..
-Next day released a bit of tension, glued, reclamped.
 (I used epoxy) 
HTH
Tom
--- SSH <ot811@msbx.net> wrote:
> Tom,
>     I am half way through making the spoked wheels
> and I have a 
> question for you.
>     I made the wheels in two halves, but one hub. 
> The wheel halves 
> are stuck to the hub - (so it now looks like a tall
> spool).  next 
> step is to press and glue the halves together.  But,
> because of the 
> tension in the spokes it is not easy to 'cone' them
> - the tyre halves 
> tend to buckle.
>     How did you address this problem.
> thanks in advance
> Sanjeev
> 
> 


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 19:14:31 +0000
From: "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Caproni
Message-ID: <F255eSOzNCWbzwWJv3z00007123@hotmail.com>

>From: BRENT THEOBALD <brent524@comcast.net>
>I have a theory that airplanes that appear in Roden's boxart are future
>releases. I forget which fighter it is (Berg D.I?) that showed a
>Caproni under attack. Hmmm? Not impossible. Afterall they made a series
>of Gothas.

There's, what looks like, a Short 184 on the cover of the forthcoming 
Albatros W.4 late version.

Michael

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 13:24:53 -0600
From: BRENT THEOBALD <brent524@comcast.net>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Caproni
Message-ID: <bf6b8c54a3.c54a3bf6b8@icomcast.net>

Howdy!

> There's, what looks like, a Short 184 on the cover of the 
> forthcoming Albatros W.4 late version.

Ah hah! See, don't you just know their marketing plan is to let you 
build combatants? So, we're going to need some of those big bombers.

Later!

Brent


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 11:51:11 -0800
From: "Bob Laskodi" <laskodi@launchnet.com>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint
Message-ID: <000d01c2cbbd$9a765920$493819d0@a8f1a1>

<<<I've heard from Russian modelers that the best thinner for Gunze acrylics
(I guess these are called "Gunze Sangyo") is vodka. Seriously.>>>
This is true. Any form of alcohol is an excellent thinner for Gunze.
Although I might use some cheap stuff for this task (nah, I'd still rather
drink it!), I would never use my Stoli! Actually, Gunze acrylics are very
user friendly in that they can be thinned with just about any thinner
available, from plain old water, right up to lacquer thinners (and every
thing between). I am still not too fond of Gunze paints, they take forever
to fully cure, are very fragile, and I am very adept at leaving fingerprints
in them after a week of drying (something about the oils on your fingers).
YMMV!
----------Bob



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 14:56:28 -0500
From: Peter Foley <pdfoley@cogeco.ca>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: more eBay stuff
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030203144230.00aac690@pop.cogeco.ca>

Gents,

A few more eBay items up.  Here's a list for those interested:

Osprey/Airwar:
#13 - German Fighter Units 1914 - May 1917
#14 - British Fighter Units 1914 - 1016
#17 - German Fighter Units June 1917 - 1918
#18 - British Fighter Units 1917 - 1918

Vintage Warbirds:
#1 - The Royal Flying Corps in WWI
#2 - The German Army-Air Service in WWI
#4 - The Bristol Fighter
#5 - The Sopwith Fighters
#10 - Nieuport Aircraft in WWI

Windsock Datafiles:
#13 - Albatross C.III
#14 - RAF BE2e
#19 - Albatross D.!!!(OEF)

Fighters - Attack & Training Aircraft, 1914 - 1919, Pocket Encyc. of World 
Aircraft in Colour

Scale ModelAircraft in plastic card, by Harry Woodman

Aircraft Archive Vol.1, Aircraft plans of WWI

The Flaming Skies, kids paper model punch-out model book

Jane's Fighting Aircraft of WWI ( consolidation of Jane's - All the World's 
Aircraft, 1914 - 1919)

Start from:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=29343&item=2707038839

follow the 'view seller's other item' link to see the others.

Sorry to those not interested.

enjoy!

pf


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:13:30 -0500
From: "Michael Stanley" <mstanley@tampabay.rr.com>
To: "WWI \(E-mail\)" <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: contest Orlando, FL
Message-ID: <002001c2cbc0$b8cbab70$3400a8c0@MIKES>

Hello all, 

The IPMS Region 11 convention & contest is being
held in Orlando on March 29 & 30th 2003. 

The contest will be held at the Holiday Inn Select, Orlando East on
12125 High Tech Avenue
Orlando FL 32817, near University of Central Florida and the
intersection of Alafaya Trail & University Blvd.  Directions available
from Mapquest or the Hotel website (http://www.hiucf.com)

Flyers for the show are available from our website, in MS Word or
Adobe Acrobat format; click "Modelpalooza 2003 Contest Info" link from
our home page:
  http://www.ipmsorlando.com/ 


A special rate is a available at the Holiday Inn Select, Orlando East
Ask for the group rate for
IPMS Orlando Modelpalooza, - you must call (407) 275-9000 and ask for
"In House Reservations" to receive the rate of $70/night double
occupancy.

I any one is interested in being a Vendor or has any questions, please
feel free to email me direct : modelpalooza@ipmsorlando.com

Thanks for your time, 

Anthony Knific 
President, IPMS Orlando 
modelpalooza@ipmsorlando.com 
http://www.ipmsorlando.com/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:25:40 -0500
From: "Steven Perry" <sperry03@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Re: contest Orlando, FL
Message-ID: <006601c2cbc2$6b9c6220$65a8a8c0@tampabay.rr.com>


> Hello all, 
> 
> The IPMS Region 11 convention & contest is being
> held in Orlando on March 29 & 30th 2003. 

 I'm there :-)
sp

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:42:15 -0500
From: SSH <ot811@msbx.net>
To: wwi-list <wwi@wwi-models.org>
Subject: Alb D.III
Message-ID: <20030203204336.6BD57690BE3@mail.mailsnare.net>

I just took a look at Tony Bell's Alb D.III
Incredibly clean finish!
 Beautiful weathering 
Great wood finish.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 16:02:18 EST
From: Zulis@aol.com
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: more eBay stuff
Message-ID: <1a2.1033e758.2b7032da@aol.com>


--part1_1a2.1033e758.2b7032da_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 2/3/2003 3:00:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
pdfoley@cogeco.ca writes:


> Sorry to those not interested.
> 
> enjoy!
> 
> pf
> 

Thank you!

(I put in bids on a half dozen of these - the seller lives just a few miles 
from me, so no cross-border postage hassles!   That alone is worth a few 
extra bucks on the bid).

Dave Z.

--part1_1a2.1033e758.2b7032da_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#ffffff"><FONT  style=
=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SERIF" FACE=3D"Humanst521=20=
Lt BT" LANG=3D"0"><B>In a message dated 2/3/2003 3:00:27 PM Eastern Standard=
 Time, pdfoley@cogeco.ca writes:<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2=
 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></B><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Sorry to those not interested.<=
BR>
<BR>
enjoy!<BR>
<BR>
pf<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3=
 FAMILY=3D"SERIF" FACE=3D"Humanst521 Lt BT" LANG=3D"0"><B><BR>
Thank you!<BR>
<BR>
(I put in bids on a half dozen of these - the seller lives just a few miles=20=
from me, so no cross-border postage hassles!&nbsp;&nbsp; That alone is worth=
 a few extra bucks on the bid).<BR>
<BR>
Dave Z.</B></FONT></HTML>

--part1_1a2.1033e758.2b7032da_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 07:44:31 +1000
From: "Shane Weier" <bristolf2b@hotmail.com>
To: wwi@wwi-models.org
Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint
Message-ID: <F17793mzvmF3PEF1BEV00008e89@hotmail.com>

Clay says

>Also, any tips on thinning Humbrol paint for the airbrush? Humbrol is
>thick. Thanks

Same rule exactly as for virtually all paints - thin to the consistency of 
milk.

I *used* to use generic mineral turpentine thinner with it but have of late 
stayed firmly with Humbrols own thinner which definitely gives me better 
results.

I like Humbrol because I'm an exceptionally ham fisted modeller,and Humbrol 
paints dry harder than any other - and are more immune to damage by thinners 
when dry, so allow me to fiddle about repairing my cockups with impunity

Shane



********************************

My Strine is a Toad in Disguise


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End of WWI Digest 4976
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