WWI Digest 4975 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Thinning Gunze Paint by John_Impenna@hyperion.com 2) Return of MVJ ? was RE: Columbia by Crawford Neil 3) Re: Thinning Fuselage walls Part 2 by Crawford Neil 4) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Clay W Fulcher 5) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by "ARSENY K (RIGA, LATVIA)" 6) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by "Pedro N. Soares" 7) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Crawford Neil 8) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by "ARSENY K (RIGA, LATVIA)" 9) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by "Steven Perry" 10) Re: Sablatnig N1/ was: Back on the day shift by xtv16@dial.pipex.com 11) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by "Pedro N. Soares" 12) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Crawford Neil 13) Site update:Fokker Dr.I by SSH 14) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Clay W Fulcher 15) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Clay W Fulcher 16) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Clay W Fulcher 17) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by "Pedro N. Soares" 18) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by "Pedro N. Soares" 19) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Clay W Fulcher 20) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Crawford Neil 21) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Clay W Fulcher 22) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by "Pedro N. Soares" 23) RE: Site update:Fokker Dr.I by "Pedro N. Soares" 24) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Crawford Neil 25) Re: Thinning Gunze Paint by Clay W Fulcher 26) RE: ISO: Spa. 48 SPAD 13s by Crawford Neil 27) Re: more old kits, Part 1 by Crawford Neil 28) RE: ISO: Spa. 48 SPAD 13s by Crawford Neil 29) Re: Worth a look on Hotwash.... by dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com 30) RE: ISO: Spa. 48 SPAD 13s by dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 09:39:44 -0500 From: John_Impenna@hyperion.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: Hi folks, Did someone on the list once say how they thinned these paints???? I thought I had saved that and maybe I'm remembering the wrong source. Any help working with these paints; they're new to me, would be appreciated!! TIA. Regards, John ************************************************************************ If you received this e-mail in error please delete it and notify the sender as soon as possible. The contents of this e-mail may be confidential and the unauthorized use, copying, or dissemination of it and any attachments to it, is prohibited. Internet communications are not secure and Hyperion does not, therefore, accept legal responsibility for the contents of this message nor for any damage caused by viruses. The views expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Hyperion. For more information about Hyperion, please visit our Web site at www.hyperion.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:40:13 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Return of MVJ ? was RE: Columbia Message-ID: Hi Mark, Nice to see your name on-list again. Please continue doing that! /Neil C. > > mvj > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:54:36 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Thinning Fuselage walls Part 2 Message-ID: Excellent description D, and for your thoughtful followup Sanjeev. I prefer the hooligan method of a Dremel and BIG tool. /Neil C. Modelling is an accident wating for a place to happen! > Diego, > That was very useful! I learnt quite a few tips there. > The way I thin the fuselage on 1:48 models: I avoid using the motor > tool because I am not too careful with it. Instead, I use the #10 > (curved edge) exacto blade to shave the plastic, I alernate this with > riffling files to speed up the process. > When the wall is sufficiently thin, I use sandpaper wrapped over > balsa to thin it further and and smooth it down. > Holding it up to the light occasionally to see if it is being thinned > evenly, and to avoid thinning it too much in one spot. > regards > Sanjeev > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 07:57:07 -0700 From: Clay W Fulcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <20030203.075707.3628.0.mtngoat01@juno.com> Also, any tips on thinning Humbrol paint for the airbrush? Humbrol is thick. Thanks. Clay On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 09:42:15 -0500 (EST) John_Impenna@hyperion.com writes: > > Hi folks, > Did someone on the list once say how they thinned these paints???? > I > thought I had saved that and maybe I'm remembering the wrong source. > Any > help working with these paints; they're new to me, would be > appreciated!! > TIA. > > Regards, > John > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 17:06:24 +0200 From: "ARSENY K (RIGA, LATVIA)" To: "John_Impenna@hyperion.com" Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <1344419338.20030203170624@inbox.lv> 03.02.03 "[WWI] Thinning Gunze Paint" Hello, John! I think it depends of which kind of Gunze paint you're using. I've heard from Russian modelers that the best thinner for Gunze acrylics (I guess these are called "Gunze Sangyo") is vodka. Seriously. Jhc> Hi folks, Jhc> Did someone on the list once say how they thinned these paints???? I Jhc> thought I had saved that and maybe I'm remembering the wrong source. Any Jhc> help working with these paints; they're new to me, would be appreciated!! Jhc> TIA. Jhc> Regards, Jhc> John Jhc> ************************************************************************ Jhc> If you received this e-mail in error please delete it and notify the sender as soon as possible. The contents of this e-mail may be confidential and the unauthorized use, copying, or Jhc> dissemination of it and any attachments to it, is prohibited. Jhc> Internet communications are not secure and Hyperion does not, therefore, accept legal responsibility for the contents of this message nor for any damage caused by viruses. The views expressed Jhc> here do not necessarily represent those of Hyperion. Jhc> For more information about Hyperion, please visit our Web site at www.hyperion.com Best wishes, Arseny Kardash Riga, LATVIA icq #160254499 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:03:10 -0000 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B302A29277@TUFAO> Clay, Mineral spirits (white spirit)or regular non cellulose thinners from the hardware store, work ok for me. Now if you're brush painting, I'd suggest trying on a bit of scrap plastic before using any of the above, especially the latter. HTH Pedro > -----Original Message----- > From: Clay W Fulcher [mailto:mtngoat01@juno.com] > Sent: segunda-feira, 3 de Fevereiro de 2003 14:59 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Thinning Gunze Paint > > > Also, any tips on thinning Humbrol paint for the airbrush? Humbrol is > thick. Thanks. > > Clay > > On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 09:42:15 -0500 (EST) > John_Impenna@hyperion.com writes: > > > > Hi folks, > > Did someone on the list once say how they thinned these paints???? > > I > > thought I had saved that and maybe I'm remembering the > wrong source. > > Any > > help working with these paints; they're new to me, would be > > appreciated!! > > TIA. > > > > Regards, > > John > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today > Only $9.95 per month! > Visit www.juno.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 16:04:33 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: I do 33% white spirit, 33% cellulose thinner, 33% paint, (roughly) consistency should be like milk they say. Mine is perhaps a little thicker, but I then heat up my readymixed paint by dipping my airbrush cup in boiling water,which makes it flow better. /Neil C. > > Also, any tips on thinning Humbrol paint for the airbrush? Humbrol is > thick. Thanks. > > Clay > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 17:08:39 +0200 From: "ARSENY K (RIGA, LATVIA)" To: Clay W Fulcher Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <94554442.20030203170839@inbox.lv> 03.02.03 "[WWI] Re: Thinning Gunze Paint" I thin Humrol enamels with Humbrol enamel thinner or lacquer thinner (it is called 646 thinner here in Latvia (don't know why)). CWF> Also, any tips on thinning Humbrol paint for the airbrush? Humbrol is CWF> thick. Thanks. CWF> Clay CWF> On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 09:42:15 -0500 (EST) John_Impenna@hyperion.com writes: >> >> Hi folks, >> Did someone on the list once say how they thinned these paints???? >> I >> thought I had saved that and maybe I'm remembering the wrong source. >> Any >> help working with these paints; they're new to me, would be >> appreciated!! >> TIA. >> >> Regards, >> John >> CWF> ________________________________________________________________ CWF> Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today CWF> Only $9.95 per month! CWF> Visit www.juno.com Best wishes, Arseny Kardash Riga, LATVIA icq #160254499 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:11:27 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <003b01c2cb96$869a7e80$65a8a8c0@tampabay.rr.com> I've > heard from Russian modelers that the best thinner for Gunze acrylics > (I guess these are called "Gunze Sangyo") is vodka. Seriously. Wonder if White Lightnin' would do ;-) sp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 15:12:14 +0000 From: xtv16@dial.pipex.com To: Subject: Re: Sablatnig N1/ was: Back on the day shift Message-ID: <1044285134.3e3e86ce40de4@netmail.pipex.net> Quoting Michael Kendix : > Dave: > > Sierra Scale does a Sablatnig SF.5 in 1/72nd scale but the SF, I think, > > denotes a floatplane/seaplane type. > > According to: (watch the wrap here) > http://www.csd.uwo.ca/~pettypi/elevon/gustin_military/db/ger/SABLAT01.html > > the N.1 was a night bomber. > > Kewl!, as the young folk would say! Thanks Michael Dave ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:12:07 -0000 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B302A292B0@TUFAO> Clay, As Arseny and Neil have suggested cellulose thinners also work with the airbrush, BUT be sure not to let the paint accumulate wet on the surface of the plastic. The good side is that it dries much faster. Pedro > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 16:21:19 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: Yes thats very true, you need to know what you're doing with cellulose thinners, I've been increasing my dose up to the present level for the past 20 odd years. I think it makes paint bite better (as we say in Sweden, does it make sense in English?) Another couple of points, I use a gasmask, and make sure you don't get any water in the paint if you're heating paint. /Neil C. > Clay, > > As Arseny and Neil have suggested cellulose thinners also > work with the > airbrush, BUT be sure not to let the paint accumulate wet on > the surface of > the plastic. The good side is that it dries much faster. > > Pedro > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:23:33 -0500 From: SSH To: wwi-list Subject: Site update:Fokker Dr.I Message-ID: <20030203152456.54F8C690BC7@mail.mailsnare.net> Fraser May sent in pics of Rumey's DML Fokker Dr.1 See http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/May/CP/index.html or news regards Sanjeev ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 08:26:08 -0700 From: Clay W Fulcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <20030203.082608.3628.5.mtngoat01@juno.com> Thanks Pedro. Experiment to get the right ratio? 2:1 paint/thinner? I don't want to ruin my new Iwata airbrush. Clay On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:05:36 -0500 (EST) "Pedro N. Soares" writes: > Clay, > > Mineral spirits (white spirit)or regular non cellulose thinners from > the > hardware store, work ok for me. Now if you're brush painting, I'd > suggest > trying on a bit of scrap plastic before using any of the above, > especially > the latter. > > HTH > > Pedro > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 08:28:24 -0700 From: Clay W Fulcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <20030203.082824.3628.6.mtngoat01@juno.com> Thanks Neil. I will try it this way. But can you tell me what the difference is between "cellulose" and "non-cellulose" thinner is? Pedro says to use the latter. --Clay On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:05:43 -0500 (EST) Crawford Neil writes: > I do 33% white spirit, 33% cellulose thinner, 33% paint, > (roughly) consistency should be like milk they say. Mine is > perhaps a little thicker, but I then heat up my readymixed paint > by dipping my airbrush cup in boiling water,which makes it flow > better. > /Neil C. > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 08:30:17 -0700 From: Clay W Fulcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <20030203.083017.3628.7.mtngoat01@juno.com> Thanks Arseny...this too goes into my "Tips and Techniques" folder. --C On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:07:51 -0500 (EST) "ARSENY K (RIGA, LATVIA)" writes: > 03.02.03 "[WWI] Re: Thinning Gunze Paint" > > I thin Humrol enamels with Humbrol enamel thinner or lacquer > thinner > (it is called 646 thinner here in Latvia (don't know why)). > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:31:38 -0000 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B302A29311@TUFAO> > I've been increasing my dose up to the > present level for the past 20 odd years. You're a survivor, man! started out in burgundy but soon hit the harder stuff.... Bob Dylan Just like Tom Thumbs blues ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:32:55 -0000 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B302A29321@TUFAO> Clay, I'd go more of 50-50, as Neil said like milk (skimmed...) but try on a scrap first. Pedro > -----Original Message----- > From: Clay W Fulcher [mailto:mtngoat01@juno.com] > Sent: segunda-feira, 3 de Fevereiro de 2003 15:31 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Thinning Gunze Paint > > > Thanks Pedro. Experiment to get the right ratio? 2:1 paint/thinner? I > don't want to ruin my new Iwata airbrush. > Clay > > On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:05:36 -0500 (EST) "Pedro N. Soares" > writes: > > Clay, > > > > Mineral spirits (white spirit)or regular non cellulose > thinners from > > the > > hardware store, work ok for me. Now if you're brush painting, I'd > > suggest > > trying on a bit of scrap plastic before using any of the above, > > especially > > the latter. > > > > HTH > > > > Pedro > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today > Only $9.95 per month! > Visit www.juno.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 08:33:23 -0700 From: Clay W Fulcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <20030203.083324.3628.8.mtngoat01@juno.com> It would probably work for awhile. After that, you better stick to just nipping it, without trying to paint. --Clay p.s. I wonder if a White Lightning still would be illegal, if you only used it for paint thinner? On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:11:58 -0500 (EST) "Steven Perry" writes: > I've > > heard from Russian modelers that the best thinner for Gunze > acrylics > > (I guess these are called "Gunze Sangyo") is vodka. Seriously. > > Wonder if White Lightnin' would do ;-) > sp > > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 16:42:42 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: I wish I could, you have to be careful with this, the one that works is called Alcro Thinner here, but I'm certain it will be called something else in the States. I recently bought some made by another manufacturer (Casco) which contains etyl-acetate, and was told by my modelling friends here, that Casco doesn't work. So I only use it for cleaning. The type to get is the old-fashioned sort, I'm sorry I don't know what it contains, but it melts plastic, I'm sure Mark Shannon can help out. /Neil C. > > Thanks Neil. I will try it this way. > But can you tell me what the difference is between "cellulose" and > "non-cellulose" thinner is? Pedro says to use the latter. > --Clay ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 08:42:19 -0700 From: Clay W Fulcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <20030203.084219.3628.10.mtngoat01@juno.com> OH man. I think I will stick with non-cellulose for awhile, until I get drier behind the ears. Plus along with my white lightnin and no gas-mask, I'll be swapping the positions of the top and bottom wings, and putting the engine in the cockpit. Same ratio Neil? --Clay On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:22:39 -0500 (EST) Crawford Neil writes: > Yes thats very true, you need to know what you're doing with > cellulose thinners, I've been increasing my dose up to the > present level for the past 20 odd years. I think it makes paint > bite better (as we say in Sweden, does it make sense in English?) > Another couple of points, I use a gasmask, and make sure you don't > get any water in the paint if you're heating paint. > /Neil C. > > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:53:03 -0000 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B302A29366@TUFAO> Clay, Don't spray without a respirator. Doesn't matter if acrylics or enamel. Respirator filters are easy to replace, lungs not that so. In Portugal we call the non cellulose, synthetic thinners, the other we call cellulose thinners. These are general designations but I'm sure that as Neil said mixes vary. HTH Pedro > -----Original Message----- > From: Clay W Fulcher [mailto:mtngoat01@juno.com] > Sent: segunda-feira, 3 de Fevereiro de 2003 15:46 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Thinning Gunze Paint > > > OH man. I think I will stick with non-cellulose for awhile, > until I get > drier behind the ears. Plus along with my white lightnin and > no gas-mask, > I'll be swapping the positions of the top and bottom wings, > and putting > the engine in the cockpit. Same ratio Neil? > --Clay > > On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:22:39 -0500 (EST) Crawford Neil > writes: > > Yes thats very true, you need to know what you're doing with > > cellulose thinners, I've been increasing my dose up to the > > present level for the past 20 odd years. I think it makes paint > > bite better (as we say in Sweden, does it make sense in English?) > > Another couple of points, I use a gasmask, and make sure you don't > > get any water in the paint if you're heating paint. > > /Neil C. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today > Only $9.95 per month! > Visit www.juno.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:54:03 -0000 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Site update:Fokker Dr.I Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B302A2936B@TUFAO> An absolute smasher, Fraser. Great model Pedro > -----Original Message----- > From: SSH [mailto:ot811@msbx.net] > Sent: segunda-feira, 3 de Fevereiro de 2003 15:27 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Site update:Fokker Dr.I > > > Fraser May sent in pics of Rumey's DML Fokker Dr.1 > See > http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/May/CP/index.html > or news > regards > Sanjeev > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 16:58:18 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: Yes I think Pedro's right 50/50 is good. I go down to one third paint but probably only because I'm using those esoteric thinners, and if you're using so thin paint, it can run, and you need lots of layes, so a pain. With just white spirits 50/50 sounds about right. Neil C. PS. If you're into really weird things, also mix in clear varnish and a dab of white paint. PPS. (Don't do the above that is only for really sick people, even I don't do it!) > > OH man. I think I will stick with non-cellulose for awhile, > until I get > drier behind the ears. Plus along with my white lightnin and > no gas-mask, > I'll be swapping the positions of the top and bottom wings, > and putting > the engine in the cockpit. Same ratio Neil? > --Clay > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 08:58:19 -0700 From: Clay W Fulcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Thinning Gunze Paint Message-ID: <20030203.085820.3628.13.mtngoat01@juno.com> Ok Thanks Pedro. I'm sure paint molecules would not be good along with my nasty smoking habit. Soon, I too will have an estate to offer all of you. Unfortunately, I will not be the one doing the packaging. --Clay On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:55:35 -0500 (EST) "Pedro N. Soares" writes: > Clay, > > Don't spray without a respirator. > > Doesn't matter if acrylics or enamel. Respirator filters are easy > to > replace, lungs not that so. > > In Portugal we call the non cellulose, synthetic thinners, the other > we call > cellulose thinners. These are general designations but I'm sure that > as Neil > said mixes vary. > > HTH > > Pedro > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Clay W Fulcher [mailto:mtngoat01@juno.com] > > Sent: segunda-feira, 3 de Fevereiro de 2003 15:46 > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: [WWI] Re: Thinning Gunze Paint > > > > > > OH man. I think I will stick with non-cellulose for awhile, > > until I get > > drier behind the ears. Plus along with my white lightnin and > > no gas-mask, > > I'll be swapping the positions of the top and bottom wings, > > and putting > > the engine in the cockpit. Same ratio Neil? > > --Clay > > > > On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:22:39 -0500 (EST) Crawford Neil > > writes: > > > Yes thats very true, you need to know what you're doing with > > > cellulose thinners, I've been increasing my dose up to the > > > present level for the past 20 odd years. I think it makes paint > > > bite better (as we say in Sweden, does it make sense in > English?) > > > Another couple of points, I use a gasmask, and make sure you > don't > > > get any water in the paint if you're heating paint. > > > /Neil C. > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > > Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today > > Only $9.95 per month! > > Visit www.juno.com > > > > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 17:17:38 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: ISO: Spa. 48 SPAD 13s Message-ID: Hi Stef, I think a rule of thumb is Yellow Spads = round wings, 5-colour camo = square wings. I'm sure there are exceptions but I can't come up with any right now. /Neil C. > G'day, List, > > Were any of Spa. 48's "yellow" scheme SPAD 13s of the later, > square-tipped > wing series? If so, where might I find a photo reference? > > TIA to all and best wishes, > > Stefen > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 17:20:53 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: more old kits, Part 1 Message-ID: I think so too Sean, at least you don't get thrown off the list for it! /Neil C. I was under the impression that pioneering a/c were > okay. > > > Sean ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 17:23:09 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: ISO: Spa. 48 SPAD 13s Message-ID: Just thought of one, I think Boyeu's is 5-colour camo and round wings, doesn't help you though! /Neil > Hi Stef, I think a rule of thumb is Yellow Spads = round wings, > 5-colour camo = square wings. I'm sure there are exceptions but > I can't come up with any right now. > /Neil C. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 16:32:10 +0000 From: dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com To: Subject: Re: Worth a look on Hotwash.... Message-ID: <1044289930.3e3e998a93a42@netmail.pipex.net> Quoting MARK MILLER : > Realy clean build > impressive work. > And the photography is extremly well done > I think it's a fantastic model - I really like the understated weathering, and the fact that although you can see 'how' the weathering is done close up, it doesn't look 'wrong'. One aspect of it does set me thinking, and I've had the same thoughts about other Albie models. The method he used for his grain (and it looks superb IMO, just the right shade of colour that would look 'dark' on a BW photo) runs the grain across the panel lines, as if it's all one piece of wood. Doesn't the real thing (and I only have photos of STROPP) have different grain on each panel? Have others considered this? Anyone done it? When I did my 1/72 one, I did each panel one at a time to get the effect I was looking for, but I used a completely different method. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 16:38:08 +0000 From: dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com To: Subject: RE: ISO: Spa. 48 SPAD 13s Message-ID: <1044290288.3e3e9af062e7a@netmail.pipex.net> Quoting Crawford Neil : > Just thought of one, I think Boyeu's is 5-colour camo and round wings, > doesn't help you though! > /Neil > > > Hi Stef, I think a rule of thumb is Yellow Spads = round wings, > > 5-colour camo = square wings. I'm sure there are exceptions but > > I can't come up with any right now. > > /Neil C. Almost all of the RFC Spad XIIIs were Kellner built with 5 colour cam and round wing tips Dave Fleming ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4975 **********************