WWI Digest 4956 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: New tooling for the 1/72 Dr I by Revell by "Bob Pearson" 2) RE: New tooling for the 1/72 Dr I by Revell by "Shane Weier" 3) RE: Shane's Aviatik by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 4) RE: Shane's Aviatik by "Shane Weier" 5) Re: Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I by Eric GALLAUD 6) INHERITANCE by "SAMUEL DAJI" 7) Re: Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I by BRENT THEOBALD 8) Re: Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I by "Shane Weier" 9) Re: Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I by BRENT THEOBALD 10) RE: New update by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 11) RE: New update by "Steven Perry" 12) Site update: Roden Albatros DIII in-progress by SSH 13) Blue Max ribs by Tom Sollers 14) Re: Blue Max ribs by "Steven Perry" 15) Re: The Voss cowl conspiracy - was Made out like a by "Hans Trauner" 16) RE: Breguet XIV A2 ""PHOTO Version ? by "Lance Krieg" 17) Re: Blue Max ribs by Daniel Hayward 18) Re: Blue Max ribs by "Michael Kendix" 19) Re: Blue Max ribs by Allan Wright 20) Re: Blue Max ribs by "Lance Krieg" 21) Re: Blue Max ribs by Daniel Hayward 22) Re: Blue Max ribs by "Michael Kendix" 23) Re: Blue Max ribs by Allan Wright 24) Re: Blue Max ribs by "Pedro N. Soares" 25) Re: Blue Max ribs by Nigel Cheffers-Heard 26) straight and graceful line by Ken Schmitt ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 20:04:11 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: New tooling for the 1/72 Dr I by Revell Message-ID: <104372667001@smtp-1.vancouver.ipapp.com> > Dave Fleming > > tonite's Bob Pearson Insomniac prize winner! Er. . uhm. ... yeah ........ I stayed up until 5:30am working on the first of the outter wing panels for the DWC .. I added 38 sub ribs ...played around with it a bit .. was going to hang it on the wall, but turned too fast and crashed into the wall and knocked the TE off. ... said some nasty words ... reglued it and conituned on. Trying to decide if I am going to cut one of my three remaining front spars down to be a rear spar .. or hope the saw will last long enough for me to cut three rear spars. The saw is set up to the exact size height of the rear spar .. so I could easily cut one of the front ones to its size .. but then I'll have to do a new front one. .. but if I don't do the rear one, I can't work on the mode. . but if I cut it. . ah heck. .. I'll do a profile for OTF instead. Bob ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 14:04:39 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: New tooling for the 1/72 Dr I by Revell Message-ID: 'ming >But he doesn't build teeny tiny scale............... Pay attention old mate, or get some sleep :-) I have *always* been biscalar and admitted it. However, I consider myself as a 1/48 scale modeller because ... 1. I can't take these little cockroach sized things quite seriously 2. Matt is more fun to bait than anyone else. Shane (my next posting on the web pages will be 1/72 scale....) ******************************** My Strine is a Toad in Disguise ******************************** _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 15:17:01 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: RE: Shane's Aviatik Message-ID: <000901c2c684$1b49cf80$314e2dcb@future> Now he will really regret selling it. ;-) Cheers Ross -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Ken Schmitt Sent: Tuesday, 28 January 2003 2:57 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Shane's Aviatik Shane- Hadda say something. That's Aviatik-Berg is a work O art. Really pretty. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 14:33:05 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Shane's Aviatik Message-ID: Ross, >Now he will really regret selling it. ;-) I didn't "sell" it - the owner gave me two kits (one for him, one for me) and some money, and I gave him back *his* finished kit. OTOH I am regretting it, as I did for the nice Pfalz D.III I built for the same chap. Shane ******************************** My Strine is a Toad in Disguise ******************************** _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 05:50:54 +0100 From: Eric GALLAUD To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I Message-ID: <3E360C2E.9060801@club-internet.fr> Very nice, I have to try the technique with sponge, the camo looks very good. Eric ot811 a écrit: >Shane Weier sent in photos of his Aviatik Berg D.I >See >http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Weier/CP/index.html >or news. >regards >Sanjeev > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 05:58:38 +0000 From: "SAMUEL DAJI" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: INHERITANCE Message-ID: <3E3088C3001965E7@mta2.wss.scd.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) FROM SAMUEL DAJI Esq. samueldaji@africamail.com SIR/MADAM I am Barrister Samuel Daji, a solicitor at law. I am the personal attorney to Mr. Adreas Kretz,a German national country,who used to work with Shell-development Company in South Africa .Hereinafter shall be referred to as my client. On the 21st of April 1999, my client, his wife and their three children were involved in a car accident . All occupants of the vehicle unfortunately lost their lives. Since then I have made several enquiries to German embassy to locate any of my clients extended relatives and this has also proved unsuccessful. After these several unsuccessful attempts, to locate any member of his family to no avail, I am therefore compelled to contacted you. I am contacting you to assist in repatriating the money left behind by my client before they get confiscated or declared unserviceable by the bank where this huge deposit were lodged. Particularly, the finance company where the deceased had an account valued at about 5.7 million dollars has issued me a notice to provide the next of kin or have the account confiscated within the next ten official working days. Since I have been unsuccessful in locating the relatives for over 3 years now I seek your consent to present you as the next of kin of the deceased so that the proceeds of this account valued at 5.7 million dollars can be paid to you and then you and me can share the money. 60% to me and 40% to you I have all necessary legal documents that can be used to back up any claim we may make. All I require is your honest cooperation to enable us see this deal through. I guarantee that this will be executed under a legitimate arrangement that will protect you from any breach of the law. Please get in touch with me by my e-mail and send to me your telephone and fax numbers to enable us discuss further about this transaction.you can reply through this email above. Best regards, SAMUEL DAJI Esq ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 23:53:44 -0600 From: BRENT THEOBALD To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I Message-ID: <7e6f197e63dd.7e63dd7e6f19@icomcast.net> Howdy Shane! Nice job on the Berg. I always like seeing the A-H stuff as it is one of my favorite subjects. Dumb question time: "Aside from the necessity of thinning the cockpit interior aft of the seat to near transparency to allow the rear bulkhead to fit" I wonder: How come you can't thin the bulkhead instead? I don't have the kit to hand just now, so please excuse me if this is self evident. Later! Brent ----- Original Message ----- From: ot811 Date: Monday, January 27, 2003 6:42 pm Subject: [WWI] Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I > Shane Weier sent in photos of his Aviatik Berg D.I > See > http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Weier/CP/index.html > or news. > regards > Sanjeev > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:04:21 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I Message-ID: Brent >>Dumb question time: "Aside from the necessity of thinning the cockpit >>interior aft of the seat to near transparency to allow the rear >>bulkhead >>to fit" > >I wonder: How come you can't thin the bulkhead instead? I don't have thekit >to hand just now, so please excuse me if this is self evident. The bulkhead is etched brass. My motor tool made short work of the plastic, but neatly trimming the brass would've been a tougher ask. Shane ******************************** My Strine is a Toad in Disguise ******************************** _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 01:02:29 -0600 From: BRENT THEOBALD To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I Message-ID: <809b6b80ae8e.80ae8e809b6b@icomcast.net> Howdy Shane, Obviously, we all have different tastes and styles.... I have never been good at thinning walls. Whenever possible I'll resize the bulkhead. If the bulkhead is brass, well that makes it a great template to scratch a plastic part that can be trimmed! Thanks for the clarification. Later! Brent ----- Original Message ----- From: Shane Weier Date: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 0:06 am Subject: [WWI] Re: Web site update:Flashback Aviatik Berg D.I > Brent > > >>Dumb question time: "Aside from the necessity of thinning the > cockpit>>interior aft of the seat to near transparency to allow > the rear >>bulkhead > >>to fit" > > > >I wonder: How come you can't thin the bulkhead instead? I don't > have thekit > >to hand just now, so please excuse me if this is self evident. > > The bulkhead is etched brass. My motor tool made short work of the > plastic, > but neatly trimming the brass would've been a tougher ask. > > Shane > > > > ******************************** > > My Strine is a Toad in Disguise > > > ******************************** > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 22:17:43 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: RE: New update Message-ID: <000401c2c6be$e44eca90$314e2dcb@future> This seems to have gotten lost under Shane's mercenary Avitak. ;-) Nice build Steven. I like your Post WWI stuff. Cheers Ross -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Matt Bittner Sent: Tuesday, 28 January 2003 9:43 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] New update Just added a Russian Civil War subject by Steven Perry, this time a Nieuport 27. Awesome! Matt Bittner WW1 Modeling Page Assistant Editor ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:04:25 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: RE: New update Message-ID: <001101c2c6d6$2b985620$65a8a8c0@tampabay.rr.com> > This seems to have gotten lost under Shane's mercenary Avitak. ;-) Nice > build Steven. I like your Post WWI stuff. > > Cheers > > Ross Thanks Ross, I 'm glad you like my mercenary RCW stuff. It all goes to a paying customer :-) Shane's Berg is truly a work of art especially compared to my 3 day slammer Nieuport. This does point out an important aspect of building for clients. It is very important to define beforehand the standard to which models will be built. After a certian point, the time invested to increase detail and accuracy becomes greater and greater for each increasing level. I always take pains to explain that to a potential customer when discussing what level of detail the model will have. In the case of my RCW models, Auggie wanted a collection showing the different markings used during the period. Aircraft type was important, but only to the extent that the model be recognizable as the type it is supposed to be. We agreed on a simple standard, basically OOB & rigged. I always toss in a detail or two above the standard where they will show. It's a trip to hear this enthusiastic, sixteen year old kid say "I'm f-----g blown away" in his 74 year old voice. I have had nothing but positive experiences building for others and I credit that to clearly defining the building standard before starting. sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:48:14 -0500 From: SSH To: wwi-list Subject: Site update: Roden Albatros DIII in-progress Message-ID: <20030128144952.3B2D94640FB@mail.mailsnare.net> Mark twain! Shane Weier sends in photos of progress on his 1:72 Roden Alb D.III. See http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Weier/CP/index.html or news regards Sanjeev ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:50:11 -0500 From: Tom Sollers To: Subject: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: Greetings all! I've always been a fan of the way Blue Max renders their 1/48 wing ribs. IMHO it is much more relistic than the "starved cow" effect that Eduard uses. However, BM wings tend to be a bit on the thick side, especially the trailing edges and tips of the earlier kits. To remedy this I'm reshaping some of the wing contours. However it is neccessary to remove some of the detail in the process. Recreating the slight undulations between rib stations is not a problem. My question is: How do you think BM creates their sharp wing rib detail? On some of the kits, like the Fokker DR.I, it is extremely fine and very consistent. The BM technique appears to be a surface application of some sort. Under very close examination it appears to me that the ribs could have been created by actually "drawing" them on. The rib lines stand proud on the surface, but appear "domed" in cross-section and the ends of the ribs look rounded or globular (SPAD VII). It looks more like a bead of liquid than a strip or thread that has been attached. I'd like to try some experimenting with drawing some very fine lines using a draftsmen's ruling pen. Does anyone have suggestions as to what to use as an "ink"? It would need to be a substance that could be thinned to a milky consistency, would dry fairy rapidly, adhere to plastic without beading up (although I could prime first) and would have enough "body" that when dry would be rigid and stand proud above the surface. India ink? Enamel paint? Future? Glue? Ideas? Suggestions? Other theories? Thanks in advance to all that respond! Cheers! Tom ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 10:15:10 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: <003001c2c6e0$0f9fcca0$65a8a8c0@tampabay.rr.com> > I've always been a fan of the way Blue Max renders their 1/48 wing ribs. Tom: Me too. > The BM technique appears to be a surface application of some sort. That's about as close as I can figure it too. > It looks more like a bead of liquid than a strip or thread that has been attached. Awful straight on the LVG to be a liquid, unless it was applied with masking or some special tool. > I'd like to try some experimenting with drawing some very fine lines using a > draftsmen's ruling pen. Does anyone have suggestions as to what to use as an > "ink"? It would need to be a substance that could be thinned to a milky > consistency, would dry fairy rapidly, adhere to plastic without beading up > (although I could prime first) and would have enough "body" that when dry > would be rigid and stand proud above the surface. India ink? Enamel paint? > Future? Glue? > > Ideas? Suggestions? Other theories? I had good results with acryl/Future painted on clear decal. It was a mix made to brush paint and was a nearly as thick as whipping cream. I painted some details missing from the kit on the decal and the paint was 3D enough when dry to look pretty good when I applied it. (see the cowl panels on my RCW Nie.27 just posted). You might consider heavily painted decal strips or masking and applying multiple coats to build up the needed thickness. If you go this route, let each coat dry hard before the next. You're going to sand it a bit when the mask is off and you'll want the buildup dry hard from the bottom up. (Don't ask how I learned this :-) hth sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:29:56 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: The Voss cowl conspiracy - was Made out like a Message-ID: <002b01c2c6e2$1c9db000$9da172d4@FRITZweb> Sean, I am kidding. I have full respect for the english speaking writers who are using german (or other language) expressions instead of using usually not-perfect translations. But a handful expressions are used constantly written in a wrong manner, so that this wrong typing appears to be the standard. The mostly used ot misspelling is Balkankreuz or even worse Balkankeruz. The Balkenkreuz has nothing do do with the Balkans. It is Balken like beam. Another famous examples is Eindekker ( = Eindecker). Hans "Der Ritterkreuz des Eisernen Kreuzes mit Eichenlaub, Schwerten, und Brillianten" = Das Ritterkreuz des Eisernen Kreuzes mit Eichenlaub, Schwertern und Brillanten. A Brillant is nothing else than a cut diamond. The very style of this cut makes him a Brillant. Brilliant in english ( with that additional i) has the same 'root'. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Brian Kirby" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 1:54 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: The Voss cowl conspiracy - was Made out like a > > --- Hans Trauner wrote: > > Not bad, Sean, only two typos. > > Hans > > > Thanks. Was it 'Eisernen Kreuzen?' I've seen it as > 'Kreuzes,' but I'll be danged if that looks right. A > friend who speaks fluently - and whose wife is from > Dueseldorf (where in Hades is the u-umlaut on here?!?) > - thought that the Brillainten was correctly > designated "Diamond," but I had to correct him. (His > wife also told him that a 'Berliner' was indeed a > jelly doughnut.) What was my other typo, pray-tell? :) > (Um... was I even right about the first?) > > > Sean > > ===== > www.pitpass.com > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. > http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:34:16 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: RE: Breguet XIV A2 ""PHOTO Version ? Message-ID: Mike, if that BIG French camera seems unlikely, there is also a photo of a smaller one on the site: http://www.wwi-models.org/Photos/Fre/equip/lk_equip_4.jpg It is displayed next to that five-footer, so you can get some idea of the proper size. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 10:39:12 -0400 From: Daniel Hayward To: Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: Why not try "White-Out" or a similar typing correction fluid? I imagine you could thin it to a point where it would flow from a drafting ruling pen and I bet it would dry faster and with more "body" than Future would. Worth a try at least! Dan > From: Tom Sollers > Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org > Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:53:46 -0500 (EST) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Blue Max ribs > > I'd like to try some experimenting with drawing some very fine lines using a > draftsmen's ruling pen. Does anyone have suggestions as to what to use as an > "ink"? It would need to be a substance that could be thinned to a milky > consistency, would dry fairy rapidly, adhere to plastic without beading up > (although I could prime first) and would have enough "body" that when dry > would be rigid and stand proud above the surface. India ink? Enamel paint? > Future? Glue? > > Ideas? Suggestions? Other theories? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 15:43:32 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: Dan/Tom: I don't know about this idea. White Out, as you probably know, starts drying rapidly once it gets out of the bottle and I think tipping it into a pen might ruin the pen, even thinned. Michael >From: Daniel Hayward >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org > >Why not try "White-Out" or a similar typing correction fluid? I imagine >you >could thin it to a point where it would flow from a drafting ruling pen and >I bet it would dry faster and with more "body" than Future would. >Worth a > >try at least! > >Dan _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 10:45:31 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: <200301281545.KAA83198@mustang.sr.unh.edu> A mixture of white PVA glue, water, glycerol and 'modge podge' glue would probably work. I use a similar mixture to spray on wargaming terrain (similar to diorama bases) to fix turf and vegitation. It doesn't clog the sprayer. You'd probably want to use a thicker mix (less water) than I do to keep it from running. Allan > > Why not try "White-Out" or a similar typing correction fluid? I imagine you > could thin it to a point where it would flow from a drafting ruling pen and > I bet it would dry faster and with more "body" than Future would. Worth a > try at least! > > Dan > > > From: Tom Sollers > > Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org > > Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:53:46 -0500 (EST) > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: [WWI] Blue Max ribs > > > > I'd like to try some experimenting with drawing some very fine lines using a > > draftsmen's ruling pen. Does anyone have suggestions as to what to use as an > > "ink"? It would need to be a substance that could be thinned to a milky > > consistency, would dry fairy rapidly, adhere to plastic without beading up > > (although I could prime first) and would have enough "body" that when dry > > would be rigid and stand proud above the surface. India ink? Enamel paint? > > Future? Glue? > > > > Ideas? Suggestions? Other theories? > > =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:46:16 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: Tom is after ribs in 1/48... For the ribs (as opposed to the tapes), one way is glue thread to the wing surface, then sand this flat. The technique is described on the Site; take a look at Tom Morgan's DH2 wings. Alternatively, masking off all but the rib and spraying with a thick paint is another possibility; I think RK did that on his HP 0/400. I have done this both ways and can attest that while both methods work, they are a fair amount of bother. Pedro and I have been through a lengthy discussion of the tapes, and I think we are both convinced that ordinary decal film, either under or over the color coat, is an excellent way to simulate tapes. I believe my own approach to a BM wing would be to sand the underside only down to the proper thickness, preserving the topside detail unchanged. I would then recreate the underside tapes using ink, pencil (or both), or decals. FWIW... Lance ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 10:57:35 -0400 From: Daniel Hayward To: Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: It would definitely ruin what I call a technical pen, but in an old-fashioned ruling pen that has 2 "blades" with a screw-adjusted line width, I think it would work. Dan > From: "Michael Kendix" > Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org > Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 10:44:26 -0500 (EST) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Blue Max ribs > > > > > > Dan/Tom: > > I don't know about this idea. White Out, as you probably know, starts > drying rapidly once it gets out of the bottle and I think tipping it into a > pen might ruin the pen, even thinned. > > Michael > >> From: Daniel Hayward >> Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >> >> Why not try "White-Out" or a similar typing correction fluid? I imagine >> you >> could thin it to a point where it would flow from a drafting ruling pen and >> I bet it would dry faster and with more "body" than Future would. >Worth a >>> try at least! >> >> Dan > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 15:55:52 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: >From: "Lance Krieg" >Tom is after ribs in 1/48... > >Alternatively, masking off all but the rib and spraying with a thick >paint >is another possibility; I think RK did that on his HP 0/400. I have tried this method on a resin kit of the Phönix D.III. I wanted to get rid of the molded on radiator thing atop the upper wing (the Swedish version) and create an A-H version. I masked off all but the ribs and brushed on Mr. Surfacer 500, which dries in 20 minutes to an hour, depending on how thick you put it on. The review and description of this build was in Internet Modeler some time ago (2001?). Michael _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 11:00:13 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: <200301281600.LAA83200@mustang.sr.unh.edu> > I don't know about this idea. White Out, as you probably know, starts > drying rapidly once it gets out of the bottle and I think tipping it into a > pen might ruin the pen, even thinned. I think white-out actually comes in pen form, with a very fine ball point. The pen has a squishy section to prime the tip with fluid. It should be trivial to lay down a straight line with this pen and a ruler. Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:03:37 -0000 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B3029C0651@TUFAO> Lance says, > Pedro and I have been through a lengthy discussion of the tapes, and I > think we are both convinced that ordinary decal film, either under or > over the color coat, is an excellent way to simulate tapes. And I fully agree. Still there is a slight difference. Take Lance's smashing piece de resistance: he went through the trouble of making ribs which were later covered up with decal tapes. I, that make smaller models (and worse models for that matter, not because of the scale, of course, since that is unquestionably better, but because of the difference in skill and talent) could get away with just the tapes and I think the results were rather good and convincing. Pedro > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:22:19 +0000 From: Nigel Cheffers-Heard To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Blue Max ribs Message-ID: Allegedy, as they say on Radio Four....... N >It should be trivial to lay down a straight line with this pen and a >ruler. -- Nigel Cheffers-Heard photography + design tel: +44 (0)1392 87 58 57 fax: +44 (0)1392 87 74 97 mobile: 0771 261 4514 nigelch@cheffers.co.uk www.cheffers.co.uk Laburnums, Bridge Hill Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ, UK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 10:29:19 -0600 From: Ken Schmitt To: Subject: straight and graceful line Message-ID: Shane literally ecrit: > main difference though, is that the raised line along the engine cowl edge has > been removed entirely. It is presumably there to represent a wire rolled edge > and will scribe the edge to make a consistent line when neatening up the > longeron line under the cockpit. RE: The Roden build: Shane, feel like am missing the obvious here but could you elaborate? Is this reference to a method to insure a crisp 'line' along any modification? What I know to do is eyeball it and hold my mouth right (at least when modeling) when trimming and finesssing same. If this refers to re-scribing panel lines, is there a subtlety am missing or is this 'same as'. Can you say more? Technique, outcome. sho looks nice.. tia Ken ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4956 **********************