WWI Digest 4847 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: HiTech AEG He has also done a 1/48th... Handley Page 0/400 by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 2) Re: Renwal Aeroskin Kits by "Thomas Solinski" 3) Re: Request for Dimensions and References by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 4) Re: Gotha GIII was Re: HiTech AEG by "Skyking" 5) =?GB2312?B?w+K30bzTyOvD4rfRtqm3v7u5tcO3v8z5o6GjoaOh?= by =?GB2312?B?zuK4+bn6?= 6) re: Request for Dimensions and References by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 7) Re: Request for Dimensions and References by Mike Kavanaugh 8) re: Request for Dimensions and References by Mike Kavanaugh 9) re: Request for Dimensions and References by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 10) Re: HiTech AEG by pfalzdvii@att.net 11) Roden W.4 by "Matt Bittner" 12) Re: Request for Dimensions and References by Ray 13) Re: Roden W.4 by Ray 14) Re: Roden W.4 by "Steven Perry" 15) Re: Roden W.4 by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 16) micro-manipulators? by "iban" 17) Re: Roden W.4 by Ray 18) Re: Roden W.4 by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 19) Another article on line by "Matt Bittner" 20) Re: Roden W.4 by "Michael Kendix" 21) Re: micro-manipulators? by pfalzdvii@att.net 22) Re: Roden W.4 by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 23) Re: Roden W.4 by Ray 24) Re: Roden W.4 by "Michael Kendix" 25) Re: Painting soft figures was: RE: roden se5a by Karen Rychlewski 26) Re: Roden W.4 by "NEIL EDDY" 27) Re: Roden W.4 by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 28) Re: micro-manipulators? by "Shane Weier" 29) Re: Roden W.4 by "Shane Weier" 30) Re: Roden W.4 by "Shane Weier" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 10:44:28 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: HiTech AEG He has also done a 1/48th... Handley Page 0/400 Message-ID: <000201c2a55d$15c5eeb0$f5482dcb@future> http://www.mbc-koblenz.de/modelle/f%23hp0400.html Cheers Ross ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 17:57:35 -0600 From: "Thomas Solinski" To: Subject: Re: Renwal Aeroskin Kits Message-ID: <00bc01c2a55e$e8182300$9eb40c44@ok.cox.net> . There are 12 kits in the 1/72 series. > Don't know much about the 1/48 series. > There was a Nieu-28 and a DH-2 in the 1/48th line. I sold one of each to someone on the list from Canada. MrT ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 01:18:35 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Request for Dimensions and References Message-ID: <016701c2a561$d7649860$0200a8c0@grzesiek> Karen, Volker, Steve and Mike! "R 1" isn't a type designation, but something like Navy serial number, where letter indicates, as Volker wrote, what the plane was used for. Types with "R" Navy designations were: Lohner Tl (R1-R24 - span 13,98m upper, 11,70m lower wing), Lohner P (R28-R30 - span 12,4m and 8,8m lower wing), Lohner R (span 13,98 and 11,70 lower wing, probably the second "R1") and Lohner-Mickl R with span 17,1m upper and 14,8m lower wing, plane powered by 12 cyllinder V-engine 350hp Austro-Daimler (another "R1"). Choroszy kit is probably (judging from the fin/rudder shape) the last, biggest one, so the higher price is fair here. Big, very nice picture is here: http://www.modelbud.pl/C12.jpg and smaller one on the "normal" Choroszy website: http://www.modelbud.pl/cde72_eng.htm Price for this plane is the same as for Friedrichshafen G (Choroszy "C" category) but lower than for Felixtowes ("E" category, the most expensive kits). My source for dimensions was my Czech friend's, Ales Kautsky "in-production" book about Lohner Naval planes. Ales great-grandpa was Banfield's mechanic during WWI. Schupita is full of mistakes (he for example mixes Phonix D.IIa with D.III) as this is fairly old book. Cheers! G. --------------r-e-k-l-a-m-a----------------- Masz dosc placenia prowizji bankowi ? mBank - zaloz konto http://epieniadze.onet.pl/mbank ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 19:48:49 -0500 From: "Skyking" To: Subject: Re: Gotha GIII was Re: HiTech AEG Message-ID: <001501c2a566$115ab640$376efea9@rochester.rr.com> Hi Pedro, I simply followed the kit exhaust and used them as a pattern to make new ones from, rather than attempt to change anything. I have not seen any phots of the type you described either, so I played it safe and followed what was supplied. Thank you for sending me to this site. This photo proves it had both types of propellor gaurds installed, the earlier boards and the later screens. I am having a frendly "debate" with another club member who claims the G-III's only had the boards, but I knew I saw this photograph once before, but couldn't remember where. He owes me a cold beer now. Thanks for the kind words Pedro. It was a pleasure to build, in spite of having to make a few parts that I didn't think the white metal kit pieces captured very well. Cheers Mike ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 09:01:37 +0800 From: =?GB2312?B?zuK4+bn6?= To: wwi@mustang.sr.unh.edu Subject: =?GB2312?B?w+K30bzTyOvD4rfRtqm3v7u5tcO3v8z5o6GjoaOh?= Message-ID: <200212170053.TAA10274@mustang.sr.unh.edu> ÄúºÃ£¡ Öйúͳһ¶©·¿Íø¼ò½é: ¡ï¡ï¡ï¡ï¡ï ÏíÊÜ3-6Õ۵ķ¿¼Û ¡ï¡ï¡ï¡ï¡ï http://www.u345.com/mainfile/join.asp?hyid=10160 Öйúͳһ¶©·¿Íø http://csc.2best.biz/ ÊÇÒ»¼ÒרΪ³ö²î¡¢ÂÃÓÎÈËÊ¿Ìṩ¶©·¿·þÎñµÄרҵÍøÕ¾¡£ ÍøվĿǰÒÑÔÚÈ«¹ú100¶à×ù´óÖгÇÊÐÓµÓнü2000¼Ò2-5ÐǼ¶¼ÓÃ˾Ƶꡣͨ¹ý±¾ÍøÕ¾¶©·¿ÎÞÐè½»ÄÉÈκηÑÓ㬠²¢¿ÉÏíÊÜ3-6Õ۵ķ¿¼Û¡£Îª½øÒ»²½½µµÍ»áÔ±µÄ·¿¼Û£¬ÍøÕ¾²ÉÓò»´ò¹ã¸æ£¬¶ø½«¹ã¸æ·ÑÓÃÖ±½ÓÒÔÏÖ½ðÐÎʽ·µ»¹¸ø »áÔ±£¨·¿¼ÛµÄ 5%£©¡£Òò´ËÎÒÃÇÒ»¶¨»á´Ó¸÷·½ÃæÌá¸ß·þÎñÖÊÁ¿£¬Âú×ã»áÔ±µÄÒªÇó£¬ÂúÒâÇë¸æËßÄúµÄÅóÓÑ£¬²»Âú ÒâÔò¸æËßÎÒÃÇ¡£ ¾ÆµêÔ¤¶©¿Éͨ¹ýÍøÉϺ͵绰Á½ÖÖ·½Ê½£¬µç»°£º028-84448444¡£ÍøÕ¾ÅäºÏÖйúÒƶ¯ÒÑ¿ªÍ¨GPRSÊÖ»úÎÞÏßÉÏÍø Ô¤¶©·þÎñ¡£ ¶©·¿µç»°£º028-84448444¡£ ÎÒÃǽ«ÒÔÓÅÖÊ·þÎñÀ´Âú×ãÄúµÄÐèÇó¡£ http://www.u345.com/mainfile/join.asp?hyid=10160 ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Ö Àñ£¡ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 01:53:04 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: re: Request for Dimensions and References Message-ID: <026b01c2a566$a83fdcc0$0200a8c0@grzesiek> > having finished one recently, I took a look at Karaya’s Choroszy listing > and discovered several new (to me anyhow) kit issues, all 1/72 scale. > Mike Kavanaugh BTW, Mike, Choroszy's own website, where you can see all the boxarts, and newest issues (the hottest new is an ot Polish pre WWII bomber "Zubr" - "bison") is here: www.modelbud.pl G. --------------r-e-k-l-a-m-a----------------- Masz do¶æ p³acenia prowizji bankowi ? mBank - za³ó¿ konto http://epieniadze.onet.pl/mbank ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 19:02:26 -0600 From: Mike Kavanaugh To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Request for Dimensions and References Message-ID: <3DFE77A2.7090209@netscape.net> Thanks for looking, Steve. I too have that book and didn't find it. I really like the Choroszy profile in the catalog listing and may just try to copy it, using a lot of Dicta Ira! Regards, Mike Steve Cox wrote: > I can find no reference for a Lohner RI in the German Giants book > regards > Steve ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 19:51:17 -0600 From: Mike Kavanaugh To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: re: Request for Dimensions and References Message-ID: <3DFE8315.7030707@netscape.net> Grzegorz and Volker - - thanks so much! Grzegorz, using your translated terms, I have no problem with the Lohner tables. Volker, I tried using "Schupita" as author with Add-All booksellers and drew a blank. Could you please send the full author and title information to me on or off-list. Even with my severe limitations using the German language, I think I want this book. VBR, Mike Kavanaugh ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 03:05:05 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: re: Request for Dimensions and References Message-ID: <001101c2a570$b81e2a20$0200a8c0@grzesiek> Mike! > Volker, I tried using > "Schupita" as author with Add-All booksellers and drew a blank. Could > you please send the full author and title information to me on or > off-list. Even with my severe limitations using the German language, I > think I want this book. Don't worry, or, maybe, really worry! "Schupita" is enough to find that book, if there is a book for sale... This book is extremely hard to get, it was issued in '80s IIRC and in Austria, and in not so many copies. So... But - maybe you'll be lucky someday? G. --------------r-e-k-l-a-m-a----------------- Masz dosc placenia prowizji bankowi ? mBank - zaloz konto http://epieniadze.onet.pl/mbank ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 02:13:10 +0000 From: pfalzdvii@att.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: HiTech AEG Message-ID: <20021217021312.KBYC20003.mtiwmhc13.worldnet.att.net@mtiwebc21> I started mine, then thought better of it, there were other kits on the workbench that needed to be finished first, but the fit involves much sanding, that much was established early. Candice Uhlir (who built that amazing Sierra G.IV a while back), built the Hi Tech kit and the review is at Squadron's review site, IIRC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 20:24:38 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Roden W.4 Message-ID: Ended up getting the Roden Albatros W.4 (Early) in the mail today. Nice kit! Unfortunately, there are surface flaws sort of like we've seen in the HB D.I and Aviatik D.I. Luckily, though, the worst ones are on the upper wing's undersides, and only near the tip. There is another flaw toward the aileron "actuator" on one of the wings, but nothing a little careful scraping won't cure. The worst parts, unfortunately, are the Windhoff radiators. Huge sink *hole* in the middle of the radiator face, something that won't be easy to fix without damaging the surrounding surface. This is probably one area that Part will come in handy with. Some flash, but when has flash ever bugged us. :-) All in all this is up to Roden's usual standards. Bummer about the Windhoff's, but maybe they can be substituted with radiators from the D.II if building a Late D.II? I have no idea if those radiators are any better. One question I have for those whom have built the Roden Albatros'. How does one remove the smaller parts without breaking them? The center struts are exquisite, too scale, but connected right in the middle of the middle, connecting strut. Think I can build this out of the box? Highly doubtful, but I would like to try. ;-) Unfortunately it's an all-natural machine, and I don't like doing wood surfaces. Oh well... Matt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 18:11:01 -0800 From: Ray To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Request for Dimensions and References Message-ID: <200212161811.01286.Ray_Boorman@telus.net> Sometimes I really hate this golden age of OT. Lohner flying boats are so elegant. Now how do I weigh the 2 or 300 models I have to build with buying one more model. btw if anyone sees the Italian National markings mini data file turn to the middle pages. There is a full double page photo of a captured Lohner L40. One of the nicest photos I have ever seen published. Ray On Monday 16 December 2002 16:20, Grrrr a nasty Polish person wrote: > Karen, Volker, Steve and Mike! > > "R 1" isn't a type designation, but something like Navy serial number, > where letter indicates, as Volker wrote, what the plane was used for. > Types with "R" Navy designations were: Lohner Tl (R1-R24 - span 13,98m > upper, 11,70m lower wing), Lohner P (R28-R30 - span 12,4m and 8,8m lower > wing), Lohner R (span 13,98 and 11,70 lower wing, probably the second "R1") > and Lohner-Mickl R with span 17,1m upper and 14,8m lower wing, plane > powered by 12 cyllinder V-engine 350hp Austro-Daimler (another "R1"). > Choroszy kit is probably (judging from the fin/rudder shape) the last, > biggest one, so the higher price is fair here. > Big, very nice picture is here: > http://www.modelbud.pl/C12.jpg > and smaller one on the "normal" Choroszy website: > http://www.modelbud.pl/cde72_eng.htm > Price for this plane is the same as for Friedrichshafen G (Choroszy "C" > category) but lower than for Felixtowes ("E" category, the most expensive > kits). > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 18:17:53 -0800 From: Ray To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: <200212161817.53374.Ray_Boorman@telus.net> On Monday 16 December 2002 18:27, Matt wrote: > > One question I have for those whom have built the Roden > Albatros'. How does one remove the smaller parts without > breaking them? The center struts are exquisite, too scale, but > connected right in the middle of the middle, connecting strut. > After breaking more than my share of these struts and finding jewellers saws, sharp blades and the xuron cutters didnt work. I found the best method. A hot blade. SWMBO has a wood burning set. I put a #11 blade in the handle and it works great as long as I am carefull. The great thing is it doesnt put any stress on the part at all. I still havent found a foolproof way of sanding the part after though. You can get the same results with a normal #11 blade and holder and a lit candle. As usual play with scrap plastic first eh! Ray ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:37:27 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: <000e01c2a575$3d717e80$20244918@tampabay.rr.com> > One question I have for those whom have built the Roden > Albatros'. How does one remove the smaller parts without > breaking them? The center struts are exquisite, too scale, but > connected right in the middle of the middle, connecting strut. Matt: No matter how sharp the nippers, they still push plastic out of the way to cut. This is more stress than those tiny Roden parts can take. You have to cut the part and it's gates completely away by nipping the sprue an 1/8 " or so away from the gates. Then when the part and it's gates along with the tiny bits of sprue are free, you can cut each gate close and there is no stress on the part pushing against the surrounding tree. Forget a saw, it's way too heavy duty. hth sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 13:44:35 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: <002701c2a576$3f793ff0$f5482dcb@future> What a great idea. But what about the plastic burning fumes? And instead of cuts on the hands do you have burn marks? Cheers Ross ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:53:58 -0500 From: "iban" To: Subject: micro-manipulators? Message-ID: <009e01c2a577$8d04f9c0$633a21a2@eis> ok, this is probably nuts, but for anyone else who'd like greater precision and coordination as much as i would... i know there are mechanical devices that, in 2 dimensions, take any motion input on one end, and reproduce it exactly but in a much smaller scale, on the other. before the advent of computers, these things were frequently used for making smaller copies of technical drawings, etc. what i'm wondering is if there's something that will do the same job in 3 dimensions. does anyone know of such a thing? in this era of nano-tech and m.e.m.s and genetic engineering, i'm sure there must be something out there, but the only ones i can find are hundred-thousand dollar jobbies for removing nucleii from cells. isn't there something that, for a lot less money, could reduce a 1:1 motion of my hand to something closer to a 1:48 or 1:72 motion? even a reduction of 1:2 or 1:4 would be a huge help when one gets the shakes. i'm sure i'm not the first person to wonder about this... cheers, iban. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 18:49:06 -0800 From: Ray To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: <200212161849.06104.Ray_Boorman@telus.net> Sheesh Ross, it doesnt need to be that hot. Gillians set has a little rheostat so you can turn the heat way down, plus its only the tip of the blade that goes near the plastic. You dont smell burned plastic at all. I got the idea because I used to have a Historex Pyrogravure. This is used to make plumes and stuff on plastic soldiers look more like plumes. You can tease the plastic till it looks like hair etc. I have seen something similiar from Dremel. It even has a fitting to put a #11 blade in and they show it being used to cut plastic stencils. But as I said a number 11 blade in a candle works just as well with some practice On Monday 16 December 2002 18:46, you wrote: > What a great idea. But what about the plastic burning fumes? And instead > of cuts on the hands do you have burn marks? > > Cheers > > Ross ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 14:12:21 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: <002801c2a57a$1d36a9b0$f5482dcb@future> Well you know my track record with glue so was just concerned about the hot bit. I still think it a great idea. Cheers Ross -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Ray Sent: Tuesday, 17 December 2002 2:08 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Re: Roden W.4 Sheesh Ross, it doesnt need to be that hot. Gillians set has a little rheostat so you can turn the heat way down, plus its only the tip of the blade that goes near the plastic. You dont smell burned plastic at all. I got the idea because I used to have a Historex Pyrogravure. This is used to make plumes and stuff on plastic soldiers look more like plumes. You can tease the plastic till it looks like hair etc. I have seen something similiar from Dremel. It even has a fitting to put a #11 blade in and they show it being used to cut plastic stencils. But as I said a number 11 blade in a candle works just as well with some practice On Monday 16 December 2002 18:46, you wrote: > What a great idea. But what about the plastic burning fumes? And instead > of cuts on the hands do you have burn marks? > > Cheers > > Ross ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:16:36 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Another article on line Message-ID: With Steven Perry's permission, I uploaded his Revell Morane-Saulnier Type N/I conversion/correction article to the IM section. Best place to put it in my opinion. Matt Bittner WW1 Modeling Page Assistant Editor ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 03:25:25 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: Matt: >One question I have for those whom have built the Roden >Albatros'. How does one remove the smaller parts without >breaking them? The center struts are exquisite, too scale, but >connected right in the middle of the middle, connecting strut. Simple, on my Oeffag D.II, I used these special burning radiation rays that come out of the centre of my eyes like Superman. >Think I can build this out of the box? Highly doubtful, but I >would like to try. ;-) Don't do it. If you try to build OOB, a thunderbolt from the blue will strike your kit stash reducing it to a molten multicoloured blob. Michael _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 03:26:52 +0000 From: pfalzdvii@att.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: micro-manipulators? Message-ID: <20021217032653.SLTU9286.mtiwmhc11.worldnet.att.net@mtiwebc36> The name you are looking for is 'pantograph' and there are 3D pantograph devices,( how do you think small model firms 'cheat'?), but I doubt there is such a device for home use, unless some 'geek' at MIT, etc, put one together. Like the geared, low speed 'dremel' tool, it's still a pipe dream. Merrill > ok, this is probably nuts, but for anyone else who'd like greater precision > and coordination as much as i would... > > i know there are mechanical devices that, in 2 dimensions, take any motion > input on one end, and reproduce it exactly but in a much smaller scale, on > the other. before the advent of computers, these things were frequently > used for making smaller copies of technical drawings, etc. > > what i'm wondering is if there's something that will do the same job in 3 > dimensions. does anyone know of such a thing? in this era of nano-tech and > m.e.m.s and genetic engineering, i'm sure there must be something out there, > but the only ones i can find are hundred-thousand dollar jobbies for > removing nucleii from cells. > > isn't there something that, for a lot less money, could reduce a 1:1 motion > of my hand to something closer to a 1:48 or 1:72 motion? even a reduction > of 1:2 or 1:4 would be a huge help when one gets the shakes. > > i'm sure i'm not the first person to wonder about this... > > cheers, > > > iban. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 14:32:18 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: <003001c2a57c$e9d3e120$f5482dcb@future> Is that why you wear your undies over your pants when you build models too? Cheers Ross -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Michael Kendix Sent: Tuesday, 17 December 2002 2:27 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Re: Roden W.4 Matt: >One question I have for those whom have built the Roden >Albatros'. How does one remove the smaller parts without >breaking them? The center struts are exquisite, too scale, but >connected right in the middle of the middle, connecting strut. Simple, on my Oeffag D.II, I used these special burning radiation rays that come out of the centre of my eyes like Superman. >Think I can build this out of the box? Highly doubtful, but I >would like to try. ;-) Don't do it. If you try to build OOB, a thunderbolt from the blue will strike your kit stash reducing it to a molten multicoloured blob. Michael _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 19:18:51 -0800 From: Ray To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: <200212161918.51998.Ray_Boorman@telus.net> On Monday 16 December 2002 19:14, you wrote: > Well you know my track record with glue so was just concerned about the > hot bit. I still think it a great idea. > > Cheers > > Ross > Dont worry Ross you only screw up once. Pain has a way of making sure you learn really well ;) Ray ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 04:19:12 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: >From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" > >Is that why you wear your undies over your pants when you build models >too? No, that is not the reason. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 23:57:31 -0500 From: Karen Rychlewski To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Painting soft figures was: RE: roden se5a Message-ID: <3DFEAEBC.1EFF17BA@earthlink.net> Ahhhhh--the ever-popular subject of painting those durned flexible plastic figures and stuff I found a site with tips and suggestions for this chore at http://www.hat.com/Tips.html interesting reading... Karen ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 19:39:23 +1100 From: "NEIL EDDY" To: Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: <011b01c2a5a7$cda29160$822d32d2@default> Will the hot knife penetrate the resin mould I wonder? :-0 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 2:14 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Roden W.4 > Well you know my track record with glue so was just concerned about the > hot bit. I still think it a great idea. > > Cheers > > Ross > > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Ray > Sent: Tuesday, 17 December 2002 2:08 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Roden W.4 > > Sheesh Ross, it doesnt need to be that hot. Gillians set has a little > rheostat > so you can turn the heat way down, plus its only the tip of the blade > that > goes near the plastic. You dont smell burned plastic at all. > > I got the idea because I used to have a Historex Pyrogravure. This is > used to > make plumes and stuff on plastic soldiers look more like plumes. You can > > tease the plastic till it looks like hair etc. > > I have seen something similiar from Dremel. It even has a fitting to put > a #11 > blade in and they show it being used to cut plastic stencils. > > But as I said a number 11 blade in a candle works just as well with some > > practice > > On Monday 16 December 2002 18:46, you wrote: > > What a great idea. But what about the plastic burning fumes? And > instead > > of cuts on the hands do you have burn marks? > > > > Cheers > > > > Ross > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 19:50:48 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: <000101c2a5a9$68732d70$f5482dcb@future> What the mould around my head at present? Ross Moorhouse Matrix Games Director of Game Development. www.matrixgames.com -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of NEIL EDDY Sent: Tuesday, 17 December 2002 7:42 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Re: Roden W.4 Will the hot knife penetrate the resin mould I wonder? :-0 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 2:14 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Roden W.4 > Well you know my track record with glue so was just concerned about the > hot bit. I still think it a great idea. > > Cheers > > Ross > > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Ray > Sent: Tuesday, 17 December 2002 2:08 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Roden W.4 > > Sheesh Ross, it doesnt need to be that hot. Gillians set has a little > rheostat > so you can turn the heat way down, plus its only the tip of the blade > that > goes near the plastic. You dont smell burned plastic at all. > > I got the idea because I used to have a Historex Pyrogravure. This is > used to > make plumes and stuff on plastic soldiers look more like plumes. You can > > tease the plastic till it looks like hair etc. > > I have seen something similiar from Dremel. It even has a fitting to put > a #11 > blade in and they show it being used to cut plastic stencils. > > But as I said a number 11 blade in a candle works just as well with some > > practice > > On Monday 16 December 2002 18:46, you wrote: > > What a great idea. But what about the plastic burning fumes? And > instead > > of cuts on the hands do you have burn marks? > > > > Cheers > > > > Ross > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 18:57:01 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: micro-manipulators? Message-ID: Merrill says: >The name you are looking for is 'pantograph' and there are 3D pantograph >devices,( how do you think small model firms 'cheat'?), but I doubt there >is >such a device for home use, unless some 'geek' at MIT, etc, put one >together. >Like the geared, low speed 'dremel' tool, it's still a pipe dream. Mmmmm. A model company called Ozmods which is just a few km from where I live producs 1/144 kits of various ot aircraft. The masters are made by a clubmate of mine - in 1/72 - and the manufacturer uses the panto to cut 1/144 moulds. He's a short run producer, working from his home, so it can't have cost him *too* many thousands of $$$ ;-) Shane _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 18:53:36 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: Stand back everyone.... >Simple, on my Oeffag D.II, I used these special burning radiation rays that >come out of the centre of my eyes like Superman. The Spurs fan is having another of his impossible fantasies..... Shane _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 18:51:59 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Roden W.4 Message-ID: Ray says: >I got the idea because I used to have a Historex Pyrogravure. I *have* a Pyrogravure - but it never occurred to me to use it to cut parts from prues! Shane (one time figure modeller, until it got too hard to paint the pupils in the eyes of the eagles on the button of the coats ;-) _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4847 **********************