WWI Digest 4843 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: In progress shots of the lil Fokker by Ray 2) lil fokkers by Ken Schmitt 3) IM Uploaded by "Matt Bittner" 4) Re: new clerget image by "iban" 5) Looking for a Dr1 kit by "ernest thomas" 6) The next from "Mr. Wizard" by pfalzdvii@att.net 7) Re: Preview of the Planet Models Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout by "Lee M." 8) honeymooning... is it really over? by "d_fernetti" 9) Re: IM Uploaded by Allan Wright 10) Re: honeymooning... is it really over? by "David C. Fletcher" 11) Re: In progress shots of the lil Fokker by "Shane Weier" 12) Re: new clerget image by "Shane Weier" 13) Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 14) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Pedro Soares" 15) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 16) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Pedro Soares" 17) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 18) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Shane Weier" 19) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Shane Weier" 20) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 21) Copper State Models Resin Gotha G.III kit in 1/48 scale by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 22) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 23) Gifts Newsletter by gift22 24) Bob Wheeler update by "Michael Kendix" 25) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 26) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Pedro Soares" 27) Re: Copper State Models Resin Gotha G.III kit in 1/48 scale by "Pedro Soares" 28) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Pedro Soares" 29) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Steven Perry" 30) Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 08:19:39 -0800 From: Ray To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: In progress shots of the lil Fokker Message-ID: <200212140819.39896.Ray_Boorman@telus.net> I am almost embarrassed to admit it, but I did it with pencils. Which by the way I learned from this list. I have a whole set of prismacolours. I think it was Shane who first started talking about using pencils years ago. I airbrushed chrome silver, gave it a week to dry. Then I used a sharp Prismacolour steel pencil followed by a sharp F drawing pencil. I found that if you sand a slight wedge to the pencil it works better. I just did random random squiggles. Took me about 15 minutes and I was going slowly. I've tried this in the past and got bad results. This time though I practiced on scrap plastic and figured out the paint must be really thin or the pencil can scrape into it. On non metal paints pencils work even better, but metal coats must be thin. Ray On Saturday 14 December 2002 07:38, you wrote: > I also experimented with the swirl. > > > Ray, > > > >> tell us about it. How did you do it? It looks great. > >> > > > Pedro > > I agree. I am close to finishing a Turkish E-III (Old Revell) and am at > the stage of doing the swirl. Jon gave me a good idea with using an eraser > and some SNJ powder. What did you do? > Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 10:59:17 -0600 From: Ken Schmitt To: Subject: lil fokkers Message-ID: Ray "The Mad Doctor" of swirl shares: > I also experimented with the swirl. > http://www3.telus.net/Jasta2000/fokkereiv3.JPG Ray! Wish my finals were as good as your experiments-- ya nailed it! Ken S (not of the Soares clan but a distant branch of Kens) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 12:04:45 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: IM Uploaded Message-ID: Finally! The last of the year 2000 Internet Modeler articles are now on the site. That means we're complete from the start of Aviation What-Not to the year 2000 Internet Modeler. Whenever I get the 2001 IM CD (probably not until mid-year next year) I'll work on those. Matt Bittner WW1 Modeling Page Assistant Editor ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 14:03:57 -0500 From: "iban" To: Subject: Re: new clerget image Message-ID: <000001c2a3a9$d50e9b60$0bd9fea9@eis> ----- Original Message ----- From: "MARK MILLER" Subject: [WWI] Re: new clerget image > The LeRhone, on the other hand, is part of the N17 > which i'm doing inside and out, and is on the top of > the list. > So I'll hold off on the plan views untill all the > components are modeled. magnificent mark ;-) is there any chance of an animated slow-motion cut-away of any of these beautiful old rotary engines, so we can see all the moving parts, and how they actually worked inside? given your amazing level of skill, i expect you can whip this up in an hour or so... ;-) regardless, i'm sure i'm not the only one who'd love to see it. in the meantime, thanks loads for the plan views. a big fan, iban. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 16:01:04 -0600 From: "ernest thomas" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Looking for a Dr1 kit Message-ID: Hi Listers, Merry Newtonmas to all, and all that jazz. I'm talking on-line with a guy who wants to build Jacobs Dr1, in either 1/28 or 1/48. I told him about the DML kit that was issued with Jacobs markings and he'll take one of those if he can't find the markings for the 1/28 kit. I think I have the DML decals if anyone has a kit they'd be willing to part with. Or if someone has the big revell kit and/or some Jacobs decals for it, he'd probably be interested in that. If anyone has a kit they'd like to get rid of, give me a shout off-list, as I'm still unsubbed. Muchas gracias preemptivo. E. _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 02:13:19 +0000 From: pfalzdvii@att.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org (WWI LIst) Subject: The next from "Mr. Wizard" Message-ID: <20021215021320.PBQH20575.mtiwmhc12.worldnet.att.net@mtiwebc20> I spoke with Steve Hustad at the meeting of the local modeling club, and he said he's almost done with his Friedrichafen G.III, (the Sierra Vac) which he is doing as a G.IIIa (biplane tail). Night loz, the works, should be amazing (as always). Hope to have him give me some photos to share, when he's done (around mid January). Merrill ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 20:21:24 -0600 From: "Lee M." To: Subject: Re: Preview of the Planet Models Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Message-ID: <011501c2a3e0$aac2f360$ba4d39cc@mesystem> Any tubing on the outside of the engine has to be induction tubing since it has no exhaust pipes. Rotary engines have a very sophisticated exhaust sytem. An open hole with a valve, about centered, on the cylinder head. Lee M. New Braunfels, Tx ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shane Weier" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 6:13 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: Preview of the Planet Models Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout > Peter, > > >Most likely they are the induction pipes. > > Yes, that was my point, sort of. I'm surprised that a Scotty van Aken would > make that mistake though > > >Looking at the scan I don't think the engine is moulded into the >firewall > >but placed there in the packaging. > > Yes, that's what I get from Earl's review > > >What scale is this? I can't fid it in the review. > > 1/48 > > >Probably imaterial anyway as it will be well outside my budget once UK > >markups and taxes are added. > > Earl at NKR is flogging it for A$50, so subtracting our GST which you don't > pay leaves A$45.45 which must be something like 16 quid. Guessing the weight > at between 250 and 500gm packed it'd cost you 20.10 GBP for the pleasure of > getting one including economy airmail from Australia > > How's that fit in the budget? (I don't have one - Tommy is a ho-hum airplane > in *my* universe and that makes $54 inc postage too much) > > Shane > > > > > > Shane > > _________________________________________________________________ > STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 23:45:22 -0300 From: "d_fernetti" To: Subject: honeymooning... is it really over? Message-ID: Well... I'm back from faraway lands... any news for the restless? D. at home and about to rest after 23 hours of riding a b***dy bus ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 22:10:35 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: IM Uploaded Message-ID: <200212150310.WAA39545@mustang.sr.unh.edu> > Thanks a ton Matt. I think the IM archives add a lot of value to the website. I appreciate all your hard work on this. Allan > Finally! The last of the year 2000 Internet Modeler articles are > now on the site. > > That means we're complete from the start of Aviation What-Not to > the year 2000 Internet Modeler. > > Whenever I get the 2001 IM CD (probably not until mid-year next > year) I'll work on those. > > > Matt Bittner > WW1 Modeling Page > Assistant Editor > > > =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 19:37:08 -0800 From: "David C. Fletcher" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: honeymooning... is it really over? Message-ID: <3DFBF8E4.6030305@mars.ark.com> d_fernetti wrote: > Well... I'm back from faraway lands... > any news for the restless? May I be the first to welcome you back? Most of this list seem to use their office computers, so there isn't much traffic on a weekend ;-) Did I tell you about my second aeroplane? Now that you're an old married man, you'll have to divide your time between family, e-mail and models so we probably won't see as many messages from you either! Felice Navidad! Dave Fletcher ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:14:10 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: In progress shots of the lil Fokker Message-ID: Ray >I am almost embarrassed to admit it, but I did it with pencils. Which by >the >way I learned from this list. I have a whole set of prismacolours. I think >it >was Shane who first started talking about using pencils years ago. Nope. My minor innovation was the use of watercolour pencils, using Prismacolour pencils is a technique we were shown by Steve Hustad. >On non metal paints pencils work even better, but metal coats must be > >thin. Cool. I find that counterintuitive, so it's a boon to have had someone else discover it. Good info Ray Shane _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:17:43 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: new clerget image Message-ID: iban says: >is there any chance of an animated slow-motion cut-away of any of these >beautiful old rotary engines, so we can see all the moving parts, and how >they actually worked inside? I'd absolutely kill to have something like that to show people. Few non WW1 aviation fans understand that the pistons in a rotary do *not* reciprocate at all, which is a major contributor to the way the engines could have (for the time) excellent power to weight ratios. I can show how they work with intersecting circles on a sheet of paper, but moving in faux 3D would be *much* better Shane _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:07:17 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <000801c2a419$5df8a870$f5482dcb@future> http://www.militarygameronline.com/CloseCombatFuture/ross'smodels/main.h tm Added an update to the HobbyCraft "International" Nieuport 17 build page. Here I describe how I am learning to do resin casting. Cheers Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 09:58:14 -0000 From: "Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <002101c2a420$7e45af40$6dfb16d5@netcabo.pt> .Here I describe how I am learning to do resin casting. > > Cheers > Ross Hi Ross, Well done for the casting. Looks like you have already mastered it. I have been having some problems with my own casting. As you may remeber I'm casting new exhausts for the gotha. I have casted 5 parts up til now: two were flawed either by air bubbles or not enough catalyst in the resin. The other, when I try to cut te part from the base where the pipes are attached to, and clean the very tiny pipes a couple of them broke, since the resin I'm using is very brittle. I rememeber Gzregorz saying that talcum in the mix made the resin more brittle, soI'm casting again today with no talcum at all in the meix. Will report on my results. Regards Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:59:51 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <000a01c2a420$b5e92760$f5482dcb@future> I use a 2 part resin called EasyCast. It's mixed 50/50. Sets white. Once I can get a good mould then I will say I have mastered it. I did also find 2 air holes in my wheel. I forgot to tap the mould to get the air to come out. Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 10:32:16 -0000 From: "Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <004901c2a425$4217dac0$6dfb16d5@netcabo.pt> Ross, wouldn't it be better to do a 2 part mould for the wheel? It's easy, and that way you can also add a resin "overflow" channel to the mould. This lets air escape from the mould and will help with getting rid of bubbles. Once the resin appears on the side of the mould where the channel leads to you'll know the mould is full with no air trapped inside. Also i find that if you let the resin rest for a couple of minutes before pouring, the bubbles trapped during the mixing will burst and disappear. Gee, here I am talking like I knew a lot about this and I haven't yet made a successful set of casts either.... Regards Pedro ----- Original Message ----- From: Ross & Wendy Moorhouse To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 10:01 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. > I use a 2 part resin called EasyCast. It's mixed 50/50. Sets white. Once > I can get a good mould then I will say I have mastered it. I did also > find 2 air holes in my wheel. I forgot to tap the mould to get the air > to come out. > > Ross > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:55:33 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <000001c2a428$81199620$f5482dcb@future> In fact one part moulds are quicker to use, easier to make. I use RTV 585 as it is a two-component silicone elastomer, which vulcanizes at room temperature. It turns, after curing, to a resistant and elastic material. It yields a flexible, elastic material presenting excellent tear resistance. It came highly recommended by the guy who taught me and has been making resin stuff for years now. I mentioned the FS article I pointed out to you and he LOL at the article. He said it is such an involved process and showed me his one part moulds. The mould I made was very easy to get the master out of and also the resin part I made. Also you get no mould line in the part. I have been looking at lots of resin parts and most are made in a one part mould. In your case yes I would make a 2 part mould due to how small and the complex curves the exhaust has. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying that the way you are doing yours is wrong. We are making different parts which use different mould methods. Cheers Ross -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org] On Behalf Of Pedro Soares Sent: Sunday, 15 December 2002 9:28 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Ross, wouldn't it be better to do a 2 part mould for the wheel? It's easy, and that way you can also add a resin "overflow" channel to the mould. This lets air escape from the mould and will help with getting rid of bubbles. Once the resin appears on the side of the mould where the channel leads to you'll know the mould is full with no air trapped inside. Also i find that if you let the resin rest for a couple of minutes before pouring, the bubbles trapped during the mixing will burst and disappear. Gee, here I am talking like I knew a lot about this and I haven't yet made a successful set of casts either.... Regards Pedro ----- Original Message ----- From: Ross & Wendy Moorhouse To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 10:01 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. > I use a 2 part resin called EasyCast. It's mixed 50/50. Sets white. Once > I can get a good mould then I will say I have mastered it. I did also > find 2 air holes in my wheel. I forgot to tap the mould to get the air > to come out. > > Ross > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:17:05 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: Ross says: >I use a 2 part resin called EasyCast. It's mixed 50/50. Sets white. I use the same manufacturers product called Procast - sets kinda caramel brown. Other than having a markedly longer pot life which we elderly slow chaps appreciate, it's much the same. >Once >I can get a good mould then I will say I have mastered it. I did also >find 2 air holes in my wheel. I forgot to tap the mould to get the air >to come out. That's where I've decided the Procast is better for *me* More time to get the air out. Shane _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:18:31 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: Pedro, >Also i find that if you let the resin rest for a couple of minutes before >pouring, the bubbles trapped during the mixing will burst and disappear. The resin Ross is using would be a solid lump in the mixing container in that time.... Shane _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 22:36:09 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <000101c2a42e$2ca8b520$f5482dcb@future> Yep Shane is right. This stuff sets within about 10 mins depending on the amount of EasyCast you use. Small amounts and I was told to heat the mould with a hair dryer. The resin produces heat as it cures so the more the hotter it gets. I could feel a heat change in the mould as the resin set with the wheel. Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 23:23:40 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Copper State Models Resin Gotha G.III kit in 1/48 scale Message-ID: <000201c2a434$d0630480$f5482dcb@future> Hyperscale review of this kit... Wow what a monster. I want one.. http://www.features02.kitparade.com/gothagiiimr_1.htm Ross Moorhouse ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:14:27 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <006001c2a43b$e5525880$0200a8c0@grzesiek> Pedro! I'm not sure about talcum/brittle effect, but I'm 100% sure that filling the empty spaces between smaller pipes with the plastic card improve both casting and cutting. G. --------------r-e-k-l-a-m-a----------------- Swieta tuz tuz! http://swieta.onet.pl ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 08:19:49 -0500 (EST) From: gift22 To: \HK033.TXT, \HK026.TXT, \HK027.TXT, \HK028.TXT, \HK029.TXT, \HK030.TXT, Subject: Gifts Newsletter Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_kZ8idnPLKJNTj7hO Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_kZ8idnPLKJNTj7hOAA" ------=_NextPart_kZ8idnPLKJNTj7hOAA Content-Type: text/html; charset="big5" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 PGh0bWw+DQo8aGVhZD4NCjx0aXRsZT5VbnRpdGxlZCBEb2N1bWVudDwvdGl0bGU+DQo8bWV0YSBo dHRwLWVxdWl2PSJDb250ZW50LVR5cGUiIGNvbnRlbnQ9InRleHQvaHRtbDsgY2hhcnNldD1iaWc1 Ij4NCjwvaGVhZD4NCg0KPGJvZHkgYmdjb2xvcj0iI0ZGRkZGRiIgdGV4dD0iIzAwMDAwMCI+DQo8 ZGl2IGFsaWduPSJjZW50ZXIiPjxpbWcgc3JjPSJodHRwOi8vaW1hZ2VzLjkyNWouY29tL3N0YXRp b25hcnkvc3RhdGlvbmFyeS5qcGciIHdpZHRoPSI2MDAiIGhlaWdodD0iODYyIj4gDQo8L2Rpdj4N CjwvYm9keT4NCjwvaHRtbD4= ------=_NextPart_kZ8idnPLKJNTj7hOAA-- ------=_NextPart_kZ8idnPLKJNTj7hO-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:28:28 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Bob Wheeler update Message-ID: I spoke to Bob Wheeler and his wife yesterday. Bob is out of the hospital and is in a rehabilitation center, where he will be given therapy so he can recover from his operation. He has pneumonia - I think such post-operative infections are not uncommon - but he is on medications and his wife explained that the prognosis is good. Naturally, Bob is eager to leave the rehab facility - the food is not as good as IHOP, he says - but he must wait until he is fairly well recovered and ready to return home. Naturally, he still feels a bit worn out so he's not up for visitors at this point. So, on the whole, good news for the most part, I think. Michael _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:34:47 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <006c01c2a43e$bced6f80$0200a8c0@grzesiek> > Pedro! > I'm not sure about talcum/brittle effect, but I'm 100% sure that filling the > empty spaces between smaller pipes with the plastic card improve both > casting and cutting. Like Nieuport V struts here: http://www.internetmodeler.com/2002/march/first-looks/Choroszy_n25-6.jpg G. --------------r-e-k-l-a-m-a----------------- Masz dosc placenia prowizji bankowi ? mBank - zaloz konto http://epieniadze.onet.pl/mbank ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:58:37 -0000 From: "Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <002101c2a442$148d5a40$6dfb16d5@netcabo.pt> > > In your case yes I would make a 2 part mould due to how small and the > complex curves the exhaust has. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying that > the way you are doing yours is wrong. We are making different parts > which use different mould methods. > > Cheers > Ross Ross, Shane and Greg, Thanks a lot for your inputs guys, everything you said makes a lot of sense. One thing I notice is that the resin I'm using is, as I said before, transparent and takes a lot more time to cure than the creamy stuff you guys use. I've poured in another mix a couple of hours ago and this time I added another drop of catalyst to the mixture. It's hardening much faster. Probably I'll be able to take it out of the mould later today. Oh, try and learn, that's my motto. Pedro P.S. Ross, ever though about making a mould of a toad? :-) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:01:10 -0000 From: "Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: Copper State Models Resin Gotha G.III kit in 1/48 scale Message-ID: <002b01c2a442$6ddd1f40$6dfb16d5@netcabo.pt> Huuuummm! I see no rhyno exhausts on this one either...... Pedro ----- Original Message ----- From: Ross & Wendy Moorhouse To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 12:25 PM Subject: [WWI] Copper State Models Resin Gotha G.III kit in 1/48 scale > Hyperscale review of this kit... Wow what a monster. I want one.. > > http://www.features02.kitparade.com/gothagiiimr_1.htm > > Ross Moorhouse > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:03:44 -0000 From: "Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <003a01c2a442$c933b0c0$6dfb16d5@netcabo.pt> > Like Nieuport V struts here: > http://www.internetmodeler.com/2002/march/first-looks/Choroszy_n25-6.jpg > G. Yes, Greg, but the part I'm casting has curved piped so it would be quite hard work getting a piece of plastic to conform. Um abraco Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 09:34:47 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <001301c2a447$1e8ebf20$20244918@tampabay.rr.com> > > Like Nieuport V struts here: > > http://www.internetmodeler.com/2002/march/first-looks/Choroszy_n25-6.jpg > > G. I was under the impression that the very thin resin between the parts of Vee struts and similar pieces was due to the resin being poured into each half of the mold, scraped level and the mold halves placed together. The thin resin being what was spread out on the mating surfaces during the leveling and pressing together. I'm quite sure that this is the case in those round waffers of parts with the mold locator dimples in between the parts. Sometimes the mold isn't pressed fully together and you get Spandaus with oval barrels or hugely thick struts. OTOH, I'm not at all sure how Barry does it. If you look at Rosemont parts the thin resin is very uniform, but I still think it is squeezed or spread during the casting rather than intentionally added as part of the mold making by placing thin card between the parts. It looks thinner than 5 thou. I got a good close up squizzy at Cyg's Halberstadt molds when we were in Pensacola. The mold halves were equipped with alignment lugs of a different shape and size than the "dimples" seen on waffers. John had also fashoned a method of clamping the mold halves together firmly without distortion. Both examples of the Passchendaele Halberstadt and the D.II conversion kit I have had were perfectly aligned and there were no thick areas where the mold halves didn't come quite together. John's castings had some thin areas like cockpit openings and the large "notch" in the fuselage halves where the top decking piece covered the cockpit area. These were intentional and I can't tell if they were made with card inserts on the masters or are due to the pourung process. Maybe Cyg can go into some detail for us. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 16:01:42 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Another update to my site.. Resin Casting report. Message-ID: <008601c2a44a$e1060b00$0200a8c0@grzesiek> > I was under the impression that the very thin resin between the parts of Vee > struts and similar pieces was due to the resin being poured into each half > of the mold, scraped level and the mold halves placed together. The thin > resin being what was spread out on the mating surfaces during the leveling > and pressing together. I'm quite sure that this is the case in those round > waffers of parts with the mold locator dimples in between the parts. > Sometimes the mold isn't pressed fully together and you get Spandaus with > oval barrels or hugely thick struts. No. Choroszy uses one-part mould only. Czechs use two part moulds, and you get smaller parts from them all in big one "pancake" like here: http://www.internetmodeler.com/2002/february/first-looks/HR-Models_2015-2.jp g But it is completely different technology. And this thin resin in Choroszy is in place originally filled with thin plastic card. You won't be able to remove the Vee strut from the one-part mould if you won't insert that card into master. That extra-thin part between strut and plastic card traingle is some kind of laquer or CA, applied with paintbrush. Sometimes instead of plastic normal paper is used (for example kick-pad master is guled onto a piece of paper before making mould. Choroszy's moulds are one part, and are filled from above. You can observe effects here: http://www.internetmodeler.com/2002/march/first-looks/Choroszy_n25-7.jpg G. --------------r-e-k-l-a-m-a----------------- Masz dosc placenia prowizji bankowi ? mBank - zaloz konto http://epieniadze.onet.pl/mbank ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4843 **********************