WWI Digest 4785 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Q: Would you like to lose your ACCENT? by Jackie W 2) Swami Shane by "NEIL EDDY" 3) Re: Swami Shane by "Shane Weier" 4) Sculpey by "Fraser" 5) Re: Sculpey by "Shane Weier" 6) Re: Oil Washes by "Hans Trauner" 7) Re: Sculpey by "Steven Perry" 8) The Clamps man - /was DrI build is alive again. by "Michael Kendix" 9) Re: Swami Shane by "Michael Kendix" 10) Re: Sculpey by Larry Marshall 11) Re: Sculpey by Larry Marshall 12) Re: Sculpey by "Steven Perry" 13) Several things: by "Robert Horton" 14) Re: Sculpey by Larry Marshall 15) Re: The Clamps man - /was DrI build is alive again. by Eric GALLAUD 16) Re: Sculpey by "Steven Perry" 17) Re: Sculpey by Larry Marshall 18) Re: Cast report by "Matt Bittner" 19) Re: Oil Washes by "Matt Bittner" 20) Re: Marne Taxi: by GRBroman@aol.com 21) Re: Sculpey by "Steven Perry" 22) FW: SiteFeedback and question by Steve Cox 23) Re: Cast report by "Pedro Soares" 24) Re: Swami Shane by "Shane Weier" 25) Re: Sculpey by "Shane Weier" 26) re: Need Russian Carbine info by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 27) Re: Need Russian Carbine info by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 28) Re: Sculpey by Larry Marshall 29) Re: Need Russian Carbine info by "Richard Bilak" 30) New Ludemann kits? by knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 22:51:29 -0800 From: Jackie W To: wwi@mustang.sr.unh.edu Subject: Q: Would you like to lose your ACCENT? Message-ID: <200211170651.BAA69272@mustang.sr.unh.edu> This is a multi-part message in MIME format --4777fd73-1618-4962-8a95-574f12cca6a3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable No More Accent is an accent reduction product, which helps to remove accents. = For example, an Asian lady (or any nationality) may have communication = problems with her English when speaking to her work colleagues or friends. No More Accent has proved to be a great asset for ESL Institutions and their = students too!! With that in mind, No More Accent teaches Accent Reduction methodologies to = help in this area. In fact, No More Accent can be used in almost any situation where an accent = reduction is required. Even Actors within the Entertainment Industry have = turned to No More Accent as a way to lose or gain an accent of another = nationality. No More Accent has proved to be a great asset for ESL Institutions and their = students too! No More Accent is available in two versions, CD-ROM and VHS Cassette Tape = (PAL and NTSC formats) both can be purchased directly via the = http://www.nomoreaccent.com website. If you would like further information about our products or services, please = contact myself when you have a moment. Best Wishes... Jackie Weinberg, Marketing Co-ordinator http://www.nomoreaccent.com Your #1 Resource for Accent Reduction! --4777fd73-1618-4962-8a95-574f12cca6a3-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:38:51 +1100 From: "NEIL EDDY" To: Subject: Swami Shane Message-ID: <008501c28e0c$6077a240$a3da32d2@default> Oh Swami Shane, Praise Be... Can you look into your pool of Future (I think that's what you mean buy looking into the Future isn't it?) and tell me what disaster will befall me if I decal the fuselage of my Pfalz with the Holtzem markings before I finish the model? I think that could be easier to do. Last time I accidentally CA'd some rigging to a decal when I did something similar on another model. Please help me Swami Shane...Praise Be... Oh yes... I only have ten bucks. Waiting Anxiously Neil E PS: What's going to win the last at Moonee Valley next Saturday? PPS: Sopwith, Bristol, AVRO, Austin-Ball.... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 19:38:06 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Swami Shane Message-ID: Neil, >Oh Swami Shane, Praise Be... > >Can you look into your pool of Future (I think that's what you mean buy >looking into the Future isn't it?) and tell me what disaster will befall me >if I decal the fuselage of my Pfalz with the Holtzem markings before I >finish the model? I think that could be easier to do. Huh. I'd decal almost any biplane after adding the lower wing and before adding the upper. > >Last time I accidentally CA'd some rigging to a decal when I did something >similar on another model. LOL - deep in my pool of Future I detect a latent skill as a modelling pratfall artiste... >Please help me Swami Shane...Praise Be... All I can suggest is moving to Brisbane to get away from the bad humours in the Melbourne air.... >Oh yes... I only have ten bucks. So, I only gave you half the advice ;-) >PS: What's going to win the last at Moonee Valley next Saturday? ROTFL - Of all people YOU should know it'll be a "Neddy" Shane _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 09:41:34 +0100 From: "Fraser" To: Subject: Sculpey Message-ID: <000701c28e15$269b3b00$fe78a8c0@pc145681> Morning all, Tom wrote: I've been a big fan of Sculpey for years. All the figures in my gallery were done in Sculpey. I especially like the ProMat variety (which I believe is now replaced with a newer product). This is (was) their "Professional Material". Much firmer and very opaque. Following this thread with great interest... I keep seeing this stuff mentioned in connection with modelling figures etc. and would love to have a shot with one or the other. However I don't know where to get it. Ia it available in Europe? Anyone t'other side of the pond do mail order? TIA Fraser ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 19:53:42 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: Fraser, >Following this thread with great interest... I keep seeing this stuff >mentioned in connection with modelling figures etc. and would love to have >a >shot with one or the other. However I don't know where to get it. Ia it >available in Europe? Anyone t'other side of the pond do mail order? Got me a bit intrigued too. I use a polymer clay called "Fimo" which seems likely to be similar. It comes in a wide range of colours, in blocks about 5x5x2cm and is hardened by cooking in the oven Just need to know if it's the same stuff Shane _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:11:45 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Oil Washes Message-ID: <003d01c28e19$5a6b4020$fe78a8c0@FRITZweb> Steven, I avoid complete washes. My method is roughly comparable to your ink method, but I use a broad flat brush, lightly dampened with thinner to remove the overflow. Don't start immediately, bit let it 'set' a few minutes, not more than 4 to 5. Don't use pure black, always mix with browns or greys (pale blue undersites don't like brown panel lines). If the panel lines are really deep, you can wait 10 minutes and use a swab, but usually the lines are not deep enough. Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Perry" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 2:46 AM Subject: [WWI] Oil Washes > I broke down today and bought a tube of Mars black and burnt umber oil > paints. I have some odorless turprntine I planned to use as the thinner. > > My question is how do I apply the stuff? I have done panel lines in india > ink before and the technique there is to use a fine pointed brush to apply > it directly in the panel line and then blot up any spooges with a damp swab. > > I will be applying this over a good coat of Future. Is the application > similar or do you paint the whole piece with a "wash" > TIA > sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 07:19:36 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: <001401c28e33$986aaf40$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> > Got me a bit intrigued too. I use a polymer clay called "Fimo" which seems > likely to be similar. It comes in a wide range of colours, in blocks about > 5x5x2cm and is hardened by cooking in the oven > > Just need to know if it's the same stuff > > Shane Try www.sculpey.com. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 13:02:36 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: The Clamps man - /was DrI build is alive again. Message-ID: I don't know who he was but at the US nationals in Chicago in 2001, there was a vendor selling these specialized clamps. He was of Northern European continental extraction - could have been Scandinavian or even German, maybe Polish. Anyway, his most distinguishing characteristic was continual (and I mean for 13 hours stright)loud, and somewhat idiosyncratic demonstration of his wares: these special clamps that could be made to clamp round anything. I pitied the poor vendors who were located next to him, having to put up with that racket all day. Anyway, I feel I should have bought some of those things but I was sort of averse to approaching closer than 4 feet to him, which would have rendered our transaction difficult. Anyone know who this bloke was? When i glue my fusealge halves, I am still using either clothespegs(clothespins to Americans) or holding it together in my hand until it's set. Michael >From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" >So now its glued back together and being held in >place not with sticky tape but a small plastic clamp. _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 13:13:42 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Swami Shane Message-ID: >Oh Swami Shane, Praise Be... >Can you look into your pool of Future (I think that's what you mean >buy >looking into the Future isn't it?) and tell me what disaster will >befall >me if I decal the fuselage of my Pfalz with the Holtzem >markings before I >finish the model? I think that could be easier to do. Take no notice of that Weier person: anyone who support Arsenal has no idea what he's doing! For a more practical solution, you could use Parafilm, which works by not actually "sticking" more by its vacuum-plus-heat effect. Wrap it around the fuselage stripes and other markings. I don't know whether parafilm is readily available where you live: perhaps it's available in lab equipment oulets. Else, how about stretched wombat hide or something. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 08:16:43 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: <200211170816.43528.larrym@sympatico.ca> > Got me a bit intrigued too. I use a polymer clay called "Fimo" which seems > likely to be similar. It comes in a wide range of colours, in blocks about > 5x5x2cm and is hardened by cooking in the oven > > Just need to know if it's the same stuff Shane, Sculpey and Fimo seem just slightly different in texture but they work up in exactly the same way. I have some of both and don't favor one over the other. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 08:24:41 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: <200211170824.41336.larrym@sympatico.ca> > Following this thread with great interest... I keep seeing this stuff > mentioned in connection with modelling figures etc. and would love to have Given the people involved in the thread, it would appear that it's available world-wide. Have you tried a large art store? Even some toy stores have it as it's used as a general modeling clay that can be heat hardened. Since Steve has already posted the Sculpey website, here's the FIMO website http://www.eberhardfaber.de/index_en.htm If you want to buy it online, here's a site that popped up in a quick search. Not only can you order but you can see all the colors it comes in. http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/sculpey.html -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 09:48:06 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: <002501c28e48$5753e2a0$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> I saw on the Sculpey web page that you could make a mold from Sculpey, harden it and then press fresh Sculpey into it, remove it and harden the molded piece. I have an ot Martin B-10 by Wms Bros that is missing an engine. I pressed the existing engine into a slab of Sculpey and was able to remove it without unacceptable distortion. The detail retained by the mold was quite good and surprised me. Now as soon as BvB is done making breakfast, I get to try hardening the mold. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 09:20:49 -0600 From: "Robert Horton" To: Subject: Several things: Message-ID: <002e01c28e4c$e9ce8640$5ec11640@rlh> Back again: Grzegorz...Your question about German 8.8 cm Flak guns...I tried an answer to you direct and the address keeps getting bounced...but, I will do some searching thru my stuff today and see if I can come up with anything....It seems to be one of those lesser mentioned pieces of ordnance and may not show very much...on the Sculpey or Fimo material....I am sure that I have seen one or the other of those items at several of the Hobby Lobby stores....it seems to work well even air hardening....best to all....Bob Horton ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:22:41 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: <200211171022.41142.larrym@sympatico.ca> > I have an ot Martin B-10 by Wms Bros that is missing an engine. I pressed > the existing engine into a slab of Sculpey and was able to remove it > without unacceptable distortion. The detail retained by the mold was quite > good and surprised me. Anytime you can get away with a push-in mold-making method, I think this is the way to go. I've never done the actual molded parts using Sculpey but once hardened, Sculpey molds will hold resin quite well. I just coat the mold with vaseline before pouring the resin. This is why I mentioned the flexible Sculpey. The only downside to doing it with the hard stuff is that for a lot of things, you'd like the mold to be a bit flexible when removing the parts. This new flexible stuff should be just the thing. For more info it's referred to as "eraser clay" on the main Sculpey page. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 16:26:26 +0100 From: Eric GALLAUD To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: The Clamps man - /was DrI build is alive again. Message-ID: <3DD7B522.6050004@club-internet.fr> I use "Berna press" for that. It is very useful clamps. They are made of carbon fibber, transparent plastic, and soft yellow plastic for the extremities of the clamps. I have some of them and I find them very useful. As usual, no interest, no relation with this producer, just satisfied customer. Eric Michael Kendix a écrit: >I don't know who he was but at the US nationals in Chicago in 2001, there >was a vendor selling these specialized clamps. He was of Northern European >continental extraction - could have been Scandinavian or even German, maybe >Polish. Anyway, his most distinguishing characteristic was continual (and I >mean for 13 hours stright)loud, and somewhat idiosyncratic demonstration of >his wares: these special clamps that could be made to clamp round anything. >I pitied the poor vendors who were located next to him, having to put up >with that racket all day. > >Anyway, I feel I should have bought some of those things but I was sort of >averse to approaching closer than 4 feet to him, which would have rendered >our transaction difficult. > >Anyone know who this bloke was? > >When i glue my fuselage halves, I am still using either >clothespegs(clothespins to Americans) or holding it together in my hand >until it's set. > >Michael > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 11:03:01 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: <003301c28e52$ce52f1c0$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> > This is why I mentioned the flexible Sculpey. The only downside to doing it > with the hard stuff is that for a lot of things, you'd like the mold to be a > bit flexible when removing the parts Just tried the hardened mold. If it were flexible, it would have worked a lot better. I'll pick up some of the eraser stuff next trip to the art store. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 11:17:46 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: <200211171117.46765.larrym@sympatico.ca> > Just tried the hardened mold. If it were flexible, it would have worked a > lot better. I'll pick up some of the eraser stuff next trip to the art > store. Good...let us know how it works. Here in Quebec City I have to buy a complete "kit" with half a dozen colors to try it. That's why I haven't :-) For what it's worth, I haven't had much luck doing this with things like engines. Push-molding works better if you're doing something that will truly be sanded flat on the back. Things like doors, spinners and stuff like wheels that you can do in two halves but that you'll first sand the two parts smooth in back. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:20:15 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Re: Cast report Message-ID: On Sat, 16 Nov 2002 20:11:05 -0500 (EST), Pedro Soares wrote: > Well, the dice are rolled! > > I made a box out of legos and layed a nice flat bed of modelling clay. I > then inserted into it the Frenetic Exhaust Master. (I think I've chosen > quite a tough one to begin with since its full of compound curves and it's > ooohhh so tiny....) > Next I weighed 50 g of rubber with my kitchen scales and since I didn't have > any way of weigheing 2,5 g of accelerator I measured 2,5 ml with a pipette > (finger tripple-crossed mode since density is a complex thing). I mixed the > stuff throuroughly and laid it over the mould box. Will have to wait 24 h to > see the results.... > > I suspect that too much accelerator won't do much harm, but if on the other > hand what I put into the rubber wasn't enough the thing won't probably cure, > am I right? What are you casting, Pedro? Matt ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:22:35 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Re: Oil Washes Message-ID: On Sat, 16 Nov 2002 20:56:30 -0500 (EST), Michael Kendix wrote: > The oil wash should not affect the Future, however, you may find the gloss > surface just won't hold the oil wash - I do it on a matte surface. I > recommend that first, you take a clean brush, with plain Turpenoid and cover > the surface so things don't get blotchy. Then you can use the small brush > and it should wick into the panel lines. Clean up with swabs or I use > little make-up applicators made of sponges. If you have any enamel paint > not covered, the Turpenoid wash will damage it. I like doing the oil wash over flat surfaces for weathering. However, if I want to highlight panel lines, then I definitely do it over a gloss surface. You know that last model I finished? Oil wash over Future. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 11:30:43 EST From: GRBroman@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Marne Taxi: Message-ID: <15c.17119632.2b091e33@aol.com> --part1_15c.17119632.2b091e33_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/15/2002 9:23:03 PM Central Standard Time, artybob@netexpress.net writes: > I just finished the Airfix Dennis Fire Engine converted into > a Dennis military 3ton lorry which is passing fair..... Bob is too modest. I was asking him about this conversion the other day, and he said "all I did was cut off the parts that didn't look like a three ton lorry". Glen --part1_15c.17119632.2b091e33_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/15/2002 9:23:03 PM Central Standard Time, artybob@netexpress.net writes:


I just finished the Airfix Dennis Fire Engine converted into
a Dennis military 3ton lorry which is passing fair.....
Bob is too modest.  I was asking him about this conversion the other day, and he said "all I did was cut off the parts that didn't look like a three ton lorry".  
Glen --part1_15c.17119632.2b091e33_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 11:34:04 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: <003b01c28e57$257dde20$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> > For what it's worth, I haven't had much luck doing this with things like > engines. Push-molding works better if you're doing something that will truly > be sanded flat on the back. Things like doors, spinners and stuff like > wheels that you can do in two halves but that you'll first sand the two parts > smooth in back. I only needed a front face for the fully cowled radial, so a push worked well. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:20:41 +0000 From: Steve Cox To: WW1 Mail List Subject: FW: SiteFeedback and question Message-ID: I got this mail today, anyone seen this site before? There are some pictures there that may be of interest, though the site is designed for virtual modellers regards Steve =========================================== steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk/steveshome.html http://www.bramptonscalemodelclub.fsnet.co.uk If I didn't spend so much time on line ‹‹ I'd get some models finished ================ ---------- > From: "Gerry Mos" > Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:33:28 -0000 > To: > Subject: SiteFeedback and question > > I note that you have extensive images of various WW1 aircraft especially > cockpits. > > Would you allow me to copy these and host them with other data on WW1 > aircraft ? > > The intentions to use the data colected to allow 3D modellers to build > aircraft for IL-2 Sturmovik, for non comercial use. The modellers provide > the results free to all users. > > I host the data also free to anyone. > > > Gerry Mos > World War I Aircraft Library > http://www.ww1.infoman.org.uk/ > > Mos Genealogy > http://www.mos.infoman.org.uk/ > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 20:52:10 -0000 From: "Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: Cast report Message-ID: <001901c28e7b$333c32e0$0a465451@netcabo.pt> > What are you casting, Pedro? A spell, Matt, a huge spell, so that I can find someone who can lend me a precision scale to weigh things in grams.... As you all might gather from my mood things aren't looking bright. The rubber still hasn't cured and it's almost 20 hours past. I will give it another day and if it won't harden I'll start anew. Oh, yes, Matt, what I'm trying to cast is a mould for a resin exhaust for my Gotha using the latest production from Frenetic Enterprises for master. I am down, but not defeated.... I am the Black Knight! Pedro > > > Matt > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 07:28:10 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Swami Shane Message-ID: Michael says: > >Take no notice of that Weier person: anyone who support Arsenal has no idea >what he's doing! Oh? Can you say "3-0" > >For a more practical solution, you could use Parafilm, which works by not >actually "sticking" more by its vacuum-plus-heat effect. Wrap it around >the >fuselage stripes and other markings. I don't know whether parafilm is >readily available where you live: perhaps it's available in lab equipment >oulets. It's available, though repackaged by Testors (I *think*) and rather expensive. Or as you say, available through a lab supplier, or by graft from your mate at the hospital... ;-) >Else, how about stretched wombat hide or something. Turn it up. Wombat hide is *way* too expensive to use on 1/72 models Shane _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 07:32:17 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: Larry says: >Shane, Sculpey and Fimo seem just slightly different in texture but they >work >up in exactly the same way. I have some of both and don't favor one over >the >other. After I last posted on the subject I did a bit of research through google. Larry s right, same stuff more or less, but Fimo is firmer and takes a bit more kneading to get soft and pliable, and Sculpey is softer. After firing, Fimo is stronger (Less brittle, greater tensional strength) They are commonly mixed together by craft types seeking a happy medium, so to speak (Not the same "Happy Medium" as Swami Shane BTW), which suggests there's nothing fundamentally different. At which point I'll agree with the sculpey advocates - it's usefull stuff Shane _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 22:49:46 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: re: Need Russian Carbine info Message-ID: <00b901c28e83$3f1388e0$0200a8c0@grzesiek> Subject: [WWI] Need Russian Carbine info Sanjeev! It is the most standard and usual Russian carbine, I don't know if it wasn't the world record in number of produced ones... 91/30 version which was standard WWII Russian carbine was very similar, only slightly modern version. Steve! I've read that one should shot this gun with bayonet on. With bayonet it was much better ballanced. It had very thin, piercing, tube mounted bayonet, so it was attached to the gun all the time, only the direction of blade was changed (is that understandable?) G. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 22:51:20 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Need Russian Carbine info Message-ID: <00c301c28e83$77628340$0200a8c0@grzesiek> Rick! Welcome back!!! Have you built your Luedemanns? Greetings! Grzegorz > Rick Bilak here, ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 16:58:01 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Sculpey Message-ID: <200211171658.01559.larrym@sympatico.ca> > After I last posted on the subject I did a bit of research through google. Research....ya gotta love it. > Larry s right, same stuff more or less, but Fimo is firmer and takes a bit > more kneading to get soft and pliable, and Sculpey is softer. True in my experience, though the differences really require that you have both in hand to notice. > After firing, Fimo is stronger (Less brittle, greater tensional strength) Could be but it's sort of like comparing two rocks. They're both very much stronger than anything needed for modeling. > They are commonly mixed together by craft types seeking a happy medium, so > to speak (Not the same "Happy Medium" as Swami Shane BTW), which suggests > there's nothing fundamentally different. Interesting...I've never tried to mix them. I only have both because I buy what's available. BTW, Fimo is available at Walmart, at least here in Canada. > At which point I'll agree with the sculpey advocates - it's usefull stuff A long time ago, in one of the modeling special issues that WWI Aero did, there was an article on using Fimo to make exhausts and such. I believe there were only two of these special issues so it shouldn't be too hard to find. I believe they were printed in the mid-80s. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 13:01:17 -0900 From: "Richard Bilak" To: Subject: Re: Need Russian Carbine info Message-ID: <006901c28e84$db1048e0$8e7fed18@bilak.micronet.net> Hi GM, Not yet, I'm still trrying to build up courage to work on the CA 3. I guess I should make the proper sacrfices to the modeling gods. Lots of Sopwiths to work on along with Polish-Russian war aircraft. Cheers, Rick -----Original Message----- From: Grzegorz Mazurowski To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Sunday, November 17, 2002 12:54 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Need Russian Carbine info >Rick! >Welcome back!!! >Have you built your Luedemanns? >Greetings! >Grzegorz > >> Rick Bilak here, > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 23:11:50 +0100 (CET) From: knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: New Ludemann kits? Message-ID: <20021117221150.818F5346C5@login-3.eunet.no> Hei, I visited the M-RR homepage and they are listing a number of new kits from Ludemann, some of them with decals. Among the ones I find of interest are Farman Longhorn/Shorthorn and Junkers F-13, Friedrichshafen G.III bombers and AEG G.IV. Does somebody know if all these kits are in production so I can order them now for delivery before the end of 2003? Eders Knut Erik >Hi List! >Look it's all right with "my source" of Luedemanns. I've ordered some >yesterday problemlessly, got some info about probable news (Ansaldo A300, >Farman F 30/35 variants, Lohner L and HB CC and W.18, also probably Polish >conversion for the Roden Brisfit), and even was congratulated for IM reviews >and kindly asked for more. > >So it all looks good. >Cheers! >G. > > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4785 **********************