WWI Digest 4776 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) re: Polish Independence Day by "Tomasz Gronczewski" 2) Re: DFW's by Ken Schmitt 3) Re: Washes and panel lines by "Michael Kendix" 4) Re: Posting problems by Larry Marshall 5) Wee Willy Winkie & The Lunch Bunch by Ken Schmitt 6) Re: 1/72nd is definitely alive by Crawford Neil 7) Re: Mark's additions by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 8) Re: Washes and panel lines by Mike Kavanaugh 9) Roden & US distribution by "Michael Kendix" 10) Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie by "Diego Fernetti" 11) Re: fabric & stitching by Ken Schmitt 12) Mike K's Back by "Graham Hunter" 13) FW: Need help with casting by "Pedro N. Soares" 14) Re: Washes and panel lines by "Brent Theobald" 15) re: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 16) casting a giant shadow by "Diego Fernetti" 17) RE: FW: Need help with casting by "Harris, Mack" 18) re: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie by "Diego Fernetti" 19) Re: Some nice OT kits atTelford by "Brent Theobald" 20) Re: Mark's additions by a.r.martin@t-online.de (Rita) 21) Re: A buncha guys named Larry by "Dave Burke" 22) Re: Back in the saddle again by "Dave Burke" 23) Re: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie by "Dave Burke" 24) Re: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie by "Diego Fernetti" 25) Re: New 1/72 Nieuport ? by Ray 26) RE: casting a giant shadow by "Pedro N. Soares" 27) RE: Back in the saddle again by Ray 28) RE: Washes and panel lines by "Bob Laskodi" 29) RE: Back in the saddle again by "Diego Fernetti" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 14:42:45 +0100 From: "Tomasz Gronczewski" To: Subject: re: Polish Independence Day Message-ID: Michael! Polish proverb says: "better late than never" So I'd like to thank very much you for the wishes! It is charming that you have remembered of us. Tomasz ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 07:46:46 -0600 From: Ken Schmitt To: Subject: Re: DFW's Message-ID: Hello Ray- Thanks much for the info. > I havent seen the Jager models, but I have some jpgs Justin group-sent to many of us if you'd like - contact me offlist. Better of: get on his mailing list and they show up whenever he's got something relevant to share. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:48:50 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Washes and panel lines Message-ID: Ray: If you press hard enough anything will come off using whatever. 1. If I use acrylic paints - Modelmaster, Misterkit or Polyscale - then I use an oil-based wash thinned with Turpenoid. This is a turpentine substitute. I don't know how good a substitute it is for somethings but its virtual odorless quality makes it a big winner in my book plus, I suspect, it's less "potent" than turpentine. Paint thinner should not attack water based acrylics or Future or Polyscale Clear acrylics 2. If you use oil-based washes with Turpenoid, paint thinner or turpentine, it will attack enamel paints because they are made from the same base. You can protect the enamel using a coat of Future or Polyscale Clear. Alternatively, you can use an acrylic-based or even water based wash - Gouache water-based paints in a tube come in many colours. 3. I usually do a wash on a flat surface, else it's as you say - it simply runs off like the proverbial water off a duck's back! Once the surface is flat not gloss, if you touch the panel line with the brush, the wash will flow through the line through capilliary action. Note also that if you use a fairly heavy wash, you will tone up the underlying paint job and stain it, which can have a pleasing effect. The rule is you mustn't use the same base to do the wash as your paint job. If the paint's acrylic, the wash should be non-acrylic-based. If the paint job's enamel, the wash should be non-oil-enamel based. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:52:56 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Posting problems Message-ID: <200211140852.56797.larrym@sympatico.ca> On Wednesday 13 November 2002 08:52 pm, you wrote: > Yes Larry you are "funny" that way. I have never been ceiticised by anyone > else for my e-mail addy and I would expect as much from you. Pete, you have no way of knowing that others here have posted similar suggestions to new people who enter using aliases. I'll note that I took the trouble of going to the website, cutting out the section of the FAQ that would answer your question and I posted it to you....in order to HELP you. My comment about aliases was written similarly. As for you feeling you have the right "expect as much from you", you might consider that I have as much right as you to do as I please. What pleases me is not to talk with people who hide behind aliases. Once again that view and approach has been vindicated. To the others here who have taken me to task for questioning the use of an alias, while Pete had no way of knowing that others have posted similar comments to others who have entered this conference, YOU DO. There are no rules but it seems fair to let people know that some here don't respond to aliases. That's all I was doing. I shall remain quiet as, apparently, you prefer. -- Disappointed --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:06:49 -0600 From: Ken Schmitt To: Subject: Wee Willy Winkie & The Lunch Bunch Message-ID: Diego 'upstairs, downstairs, in his nightgown" takes oath: > Wanda is 100% natural, Thanks God!! ;-) Excellent! One of you has that going for them. How does she explain you? Don't blame God. Hasn't that padre taught you *anything*? -Jerry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 15:39:28 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: 1/72nd is definitely alive Message-ID: AN unreserved WOW! How did they manage to avoid giving that one Best in Show? I suppose they felt they couldn't give it to Allan Clark every year. Lots of very nice models , I haven't seen so many open panels for a long time! Stripped is this years fashion. I see what you mean about the purple HP Dave, but I thought it looked pretty good anyway, one of the wheels was slightly crooked, but anyone building one of those is a hero anyway. /Neil C. > > >Do you have a url, I looked around, but couldn't find any more pics > >from the Nat's > > SERIOUSLY ot CONTENT - BEWARE (but you might gasp) > > http://www.aircraftscalemodeling.com/ASM%20sections/Model%20Sh ows/Scale%20Modelworld02.htm Watch the wrap. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 15:37:26 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Mark's additions Message-ID: <00f601c28beb$5a5524a0$0200a8c0@grzesiek> > Rodrigo, Rodrigo, Díaz de Vivar??????? > :-)))))))))))) > Martín Hehehehe! El Cid! Gregorio ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:43:01 -0600 From: Mike Kavanaugh To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Washes and panel lines Message-ID: <3DD3B675.5090206@netscape.net> A man that used to be with Accurate Miniatures, I think his name was Bill, did the AM website building guides for the (ot alert) Grumman F3F and North American B-25. He advised me to make a wash with oil paint (burnt umber, burnt sienna or whatever) and naptha . . . . not too dark. He said it was better to use several applications of a thinner mix than to try to achieve the desired darkness in one application of a real dark mix. Works for me. HTH and FWIW, Mike Ray wrote: > I have been experimenting with different types of paint washes (oil and > Ceramcoat), ink and pencil lead to highlight engraved panel lines. I have now > managed to totally confuse myself. (Yes I know thats not hard) > > For thinner I have used Turpentine, water, windshield washer fluid and lastly > Liquitex Airbrush Medium - Nope dont try this one unless its thinned with > water. > > Things I have learned > > The surface needs to be dull or the wash will just run off completely. This > was the opposite of what I thought would happen. I thought that the wash > would roll off a glossy surface and leave itself only in the lines. If you > use cappilary action you must have the entire surface damp with thinner it > helps to get the flow working. > > If using Turpentine and oil paint washes, watch out it might affect the paint > if its an acrylic base. This surpised me, so there must be something I am > doing wrong. Sorry oils in the past have worked great for me over enamels. > They clean away easily and dont leave stains. in fact I paint figures in > acrylic first and then use oils to bring the figure to life and turpentine > has never given me problems. (I suspect its the fact that a wash has 99.999 > percent turps that is the problem) > > Acrylic Inks seem to work best as far as colour but they are very hard to > clean once in place. As in small sploges of ink where you first placed the > brush unless you clean the ink away immediatlely. Which means you have to > apply repeated washes since you clean some of the wash away. > > In all cases the wash stains the surrounding finish more than I want. or i > have the wash so diluted it doesnt change the line colour. This is where oils > used to work so well. > > Oh I used Future, Pollyscale flat and gloss on different wing panels. Turps > seemed to attack all of the finishes. Gloss cleans up easily with no stains > but the line cleans away too. Matt works best but leaves stains when you > clean the excess ink/paint away. > > Does anyone have any ideas as to why I am having trouble?? apart from my > normal heavyhandedness that is. or am i pushing acrylics beyond where they > work well. > > Ray -- Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 14:45:39 +0000 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Roden & US distribution Message-ID: I am wondering about Roden's recent distribution policy in the United States. Both my usual suppliers of Roden kits do not have any of the Albatros Oeffag D.III kits. Also, Rosemont Hobby does not list them. Of course, Squadron Mail Order has them. I am wondering whether folks in the US were abe to obtain these Roden kits from domestic suppliers? If so where? I am wondering whether Squadron Mail Order has some form of near-exclusivity in US distribution. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:48:52 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie Message-ID: <006b01c28bec$f3a1b8c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Ken "rattle and hun" Schmitt wrote: > Excellent! One of you has that going for them. > How does she explain you? She explains things clearly enough for me to understand. Not an easy task for a dated software as my brain runs. > Don't blame God. Hasn't that padre taught you *anything*? He only said: "Thou shalth respecth her mine son. Or else thou shalt burnth in hell, and then thou shalt dieth and burnth in hell againe ad Aeternum. Vade in Pace" Scary, huh? D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:53:48 -0600 From: Ken Schmitt To: Subject: Re: fabric & stitching Message-ID: 'allo all of youse: check this thread out @ the other place- http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/YaBB.cgi?board=aircraft&action=display&num =1036998254 interesting reading on construction, stitching, fabric, dope and dopes. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:09:09 -0600 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: Mike K's Back Message-ID: <000201c28bef$c8f2dfc0$770101c0@ghunter> Hey Mike, It's nice to see some posts from you again. How did your list sabbatical go, did you get lots of building done? Can we expect to see some pictures of your work posted soon? Regards, Graham ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 14:52:28 -0000 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: FW: Need help with casting Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B3024C5333@TUFAO> Since it didn't make to the list the first time here it goes again. P -----Original Message----- From: Pedro N. Soares Sent: quinta-feira, 14 de Novembro de 2002 13:45 To: 'wwi@wwi-models.org' Subject: Need help with casting As you guys know, I've finished a Roden Gotha GIII a while ago and the scheme I chose is that with the ugly skull at the nose. Now, Paul Thompsom allerted me to the fact that according to the DF this machine should have "rhino" type exhausts and those are not on the Roden sprues. Well, today the postman dropped a package from Argentina in my mailbox. Inside, amidst a bunch of friendly goodies, was a most perfect master for such an exhaust, done by none other than our multifarious Long Tan Fernetti. You guys should see it. It's really the work of a master scratcher. Diego. I'm truly indebted to you for this. Muito obrigado, amigo. Now I have 2 options: either try to replicate his work and do another (which I sincerely doubt I can (my fingers are way to clumsy for such delicate work) or cast some parts, using Diegos's master. I'm new to this, but I'm thinking of buying a play dot package to do the mould and then to use either resin or lead (again D.'s suggestion) to do the casting. Does anyone has experience with this? My main problem is the mould. As I understand it, it should have 2 parts. The lower mould shouldn't be too hard (as I see it I only have to press the part into the play doht and take it off) But how on earth am I going to get the corresponding top half of the mould? Help......... TIA Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 15:21:38 +0000 From: "Brent Theobald" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Washes and panel lines Message-ID: Hey Ray, Just a quick tip. I use Minwax polyurethane as a protectant on very dark subjects. It will yellow white or CDL. However, I cannot detect a significant color shift on dark greens and browns. The Minwax product is even tougher than Future if not as clear. It comes in gloss, semi-gloss and matte. I found the gloss to be *very* high gloss. This is mainly what I use for my armor. YMMV Adios! Brent >From: Ray >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Washes and panel lines >Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 01:23:58 -0500 (EST) > >I have been experimenting with different types of paint washes (oil and >Ceramcoat), ink and pencil lead to highlight engraved panel lines. I have >now >managed to totally confuse myself. (Yes I know thats not hard) > >For thinner I have used Turpentine, water, windshield washer fluid and >lastly >Liquitex Airbrush Medium - Nope dont try this one unless its thinned with >water. > >Things I have learned > >The surface needs to be dull or the wash will just run off completely. This >was the opposite of what I thought would happen. I thought that the wash >would roll off a glossy surface and leave itself only in the lines. If you >use cappilary action you must have the entire surface damp with thinner it >helps to get the flow working. > >If using Turpentine and oil paint washes, watch out it might affect the >paint >if its an acrylic base. This surpised me, so there must be something I am >doing wrong. Sorry oils in the past have worked great for me over enamels. >They clean away easily and dont leave stains. in fact I paint figures in >acrylic first and then use oils to bring the figure to life and turpentine >has never given me problems. (I suspect its the fact that a wash has 99.999 >percent turps that is the problem) > >Acrylic Inks seem to work best as far as colour but they are very hard to >clean once in place. As in small sploges of ink where you first placed the >brush unless you clean the ink away immediatlely. Which means you have to >apply repeated washes since you clean some of the wash away. > >In all cases the wash stains the surrounding finish more than I want. or i >have the wash so diluted it doesnt change the line colour. This is where >oils >used to work so well. > >Oh I used Future, Pollyscale flat and gloss on different wing panels. Turps >seemed to attack all of the finishes. Gloss cleans up easily with no stains >but the line cleans away too. Matt works best but leaves stains when you >clean the excess ink/paint away. > >Does anyone have any ideas as to why I am having trouble?? apart from my >normal heavyhandedness that is. or am i pushing acrylics beyond where they >work well. > >Ray _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 16:21:10 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: re: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie Message-ID: <015201c28bf1$76b8d8c0$0200a8c0@grzesiek> > He only said: "Thou shalth respecth her mine son. WHAT?????? What means "her mine" ?????? Disoriented Gregorio ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 12:30:44 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: casting a giant shadow Message-ID: <000901c28bf2$ccb73360$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Dear Pedro! > Paul Thompsom > allerted me to the fact that according to the DF this machine should have > "rhino" type exhausts and those are not on the Roden sprues. Paul Thompson is a bully who enjoys to complicate things ;-)Thanks for the warm words, Pedro, I'm very glad you liked the exhaust. > You guys should see it. It's really the work of a master scratcher. We Argies are good because we have plenty of fleas and mosquitoes to give us practice. > Now I have 2 options: either try to replicate his work and do another (which > I sincerely doubt I can (my fingers are way to clumsy for such delicate > work) or cast some parts, using Diegos's master. It was nothing too hard to do, but I guess that casting a series will give us the chance of having duplicates for all the listees with a similar model in mind (wink-wink) > I'm new to this, but I'm thinking of buying a play dot package to do the > mould and then to use either resin or lead (again D.'s suggestion) WARNING: I must add an explanation. I mentioned lead, but in fact I must have written white metal(a non-lead alloy). Lead is POISONOUS and such is better to avoid it, even if it' easy to melt. Besides i'm not sure if Play-Doh may resist the heat of the molten metal. Best source of white metal are the discarded bases that come with white metal figures and the small runner that come with the parts. I save them in a box and use the bits for various purposes. For making metal molds, the best is to use dentist's plaster, the kind used to do the teeth impressions for making the crowns and false teeth. It comes in green or pink, I'm not wure which is the difference. > As I understand it, it should have 2 parts. The lower mould shouldn't be too > hard (as I see it I only have to press the part into the play doht and take > it off) But how on earth am I going to get the corresponding top half of the > mould? FSM ran an article about this a while ago... must be somewhere... D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:25:21 -0600 From: "Harris, Mack" To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: FW: Need help with casting Message-ID: Pedro says: (snip) >I'm new to this, but I'm thinking of buying a play dot package to do the >mould and then to use either resin or lead (again D.'s suggestion) to do the >casting. Does anyone has experience with this? My main problem is the mould. >As I understand it, it should have 2 parts. The lower mould shouldn't be too >hard (as I see it I only have to press the part into the play doht and take >it off) But how on earth am I going to get the corresponding top half of the >mould? I think play dough would only be good for a one sided casting. You would need something like sculpy to do a two part, something that you could cure for one side then do the other side. Don't forget to build keys into the first side for alignment purposes, also you need to think about how to let air out when you pour. There, you've depleted my knowledge on the subject. Mack ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 12:32:22 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: re: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie Message-ID: <001501c28bf3$071f49c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> I must have put a comma in between:"Thou shalth respecth her, mine son." Can't talk to these wacky Poles! They are too independient! D. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 12:23 PM Subject: [WWI] re: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie > > > He only said: "Thou shalth respecth her mine son. > > WHAT?????? > What means "her mine" ?????? > > Disoriented Gregorio > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 15:34:56 +0000 From: "Brent Theobald" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Some nice OT kits atTelford Message-ID: Holy Moley! The OT stuff is great, of course. Look at the MB-5! Wow! Very impressive. Thank you for the link. Brent >From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Some nice OT kits atTelford >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:34:30 -0500 (EST) > >http://www.jackalsquadron.org/pages/content/articles/uknats2002/pages/aircra >ft.html > >Nice looking Albatros in the above link. Watch the wrap on the link. > >Cheers > >Ross _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 16:39:33 +0100 From: a.r.martin@t-online.de (Rita) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Mark's additions Message-ID: <18CM5d-1wC1OCC@fwd05.sul.t-online.com> Hi Mark, well done! I like your paintshop on the SE5a. The difference between the metal areas and the linen cover looks pretty good. Regards Andreas ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:17:26 -0600 From: "Dave Burke" To: Subject: Re: A buncha guys named Larry Message-ID: <000f01c28bf9$53582b80$6173fea9@s0024008072> > Pete, you can call us Ray or you can call us Jay or you can call us RJ but > ya doesn't hasta call Larry, "Johnson". > ...Just don't call me 'late for dinner'... Gawd, I always hated that one. Actually, now I'm curious, Pete: are you by chance a herpetologist? Fascinating subject, I always thought. DB ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:18:58 -0600 From: "Dave Burke" To: Subject: Re: Back in the saddle again Message-ID: <002901c28bf9$8a1450e0$6173fea9@s0024008072> Dear Diego, I am happy for you, just as long as she still lets you play with them little planes!! All the best pal!! DB ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:25:15 -0600 From: "Dave Burke" To: Subject: Re: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie Message-ID: <006301c28bfa$6ab31000$6173fea9@s0024008072> > He only said: "Thou shalth respecth her mine son. Or else thou shalt burnth > in hell, and then thou shalt dieth and burnth in hell againe ad Aeternum. > Vade in Pace" > Scary, huh? > D. > Nothing about being condemned to build HitKits for all eternity, or to debate a certain German pilot's -whose name rhymes with 'floss' - cowling color on his F.1, or threatened to dwell in a PC-10 colored room for all eternity? Man, he let you off light!! DB Who was told by a Jesuit priest once that when the next Inquisition came, I'd be first on the rack... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:21:27 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: Heavens are kind WAS: Wee Willy Winkie Message-ID: <005301c28bf9$e25787e0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Dave! > Nothing about being condemned to build HitKits for all eternity, or to > debate a certain German pilot's -whose name rhymes with 'floss' - cowling > color on his F.1, or threatened to dwell in a PC-10 colored room for all > eternity? Man, he let you off light!! We southern pagans are used to certain hardships as building Hit Kits, discussing nonsensical flossing habits and given the right amount of humid weather, dwell in PC10 colored quarters and sleep in CDL linens. The rest is what I fear! > Who was told by a Jesuit priest once that when the next Inquisition came, > I'd be first on the rack... See? And you said you felt postergated! D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:24:03 -0800 From: Ray To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: New 1/72 Nieuport ? Message-ID: <200211140824.03857.Ray_Boorman@telus.net> Pedro, dont slack off on your Nieuport, you have to remember the more detailed your build, and as importantly more frustrated you get, means we get closer to Roden or whoever issuing a Nieuport. Actually could you do the whole family, even the 24, then we will get all the various types too. Its not too too much to ask ;) Perhaps Matt will help you with the funny farm hospital fees that you will need once you are done. We would ask Shane, but he seems to issue expletives and chunks of vegemite at his screen whenever anyone says scratch..... Ray ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 15:41:47 -0000 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: casting a giant shadow Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B3024F3AE8@TUFAO> D. > > > You guys should see it. It's really the work of a master scratcher. > > We Argies are good because we have plenty of fleas and > mosquitoes to give > us practice. Not to mention Cane toads... > > It was nothing too hard to do, Tell me that... I tried some 5 or 6 times and couldn't get it right..... but I guess that casting a > series will give > us the chance of having duplicates for all the listees with a > similar model > in mind (wink-wink) absolutely!! > > > I'm new to this, but I'm thinking of buying a play dot > package to do the > > mould and then to use either resin or lead (again D.'s suggestion) > > WARNING: I must add an explanation. I mentioned lead, but in > fact I must > have written white metal(a non-lead alloy). Lead is POISONOUS > and such is > better to avoid it, even if it' easy to melt. I am aware of that D. If I were to use lead I'd melt it outside in a small camping gaz burner and would wear a anti-kryptonite respirator at all times. The problem is that as you say the play doh wouldn't probably react favourably to the heat of the molten lead... Besides i'm not sure if > Play-Doh may resist the heat of the molten metal. Best source > of white metal > are the discarded bases that come with white metal figures > and the small > runner that come with the parts. I might have a white metal base from a figurine somewhere.... I save them in a box and use > the bits for > various purposes. For making metal molds, the best is to use dentist's > plaster, the kind used to do the teeth impressions for making > the crowns and > false teeth. It comes in green or pink, I'm not wure which is the > difference. nothing you can buy at the supermarket?.... > > FSM ran an article about this a while ago... must be somewhere... I think I have it. Will look through my stack of FSM later tonight Thanks Pedro > D. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:27:29 -0800 From: Ray To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Back in the saddle again Message-ID: <200211140827.29140.Ray_Boorman@telus.net> Hey Diego, welcome back. Did Wanda get you fixed yet??? Anyway congratulations you old married guy i hope you are both extremely happy!! ;) btw anything you can post to the list about ficticious Nieuports, French aircraft or five colour studies please do over the next day or so. Matt's away so the mice are playing........... Ray ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:36:42 -0800 From: "Bob Laskodi" To: Subject: RE: Washes and panel lines Message-ID: <000d01c28bfc$05632bc0$323819d0@a8f1a1> First, washes are one of the "black arts" of modeling (like preshading!). It's easy to describe, but quite difficult to execute! Having not seen your specific wash technique I can only offer the following tips that I use. If using any petrol (i.e. oil) based wash, you must apply a clearcoat first, regardless if the paint is an acrylic. Otherwise your "thinner" will attack the paint. Flat vs. gloss clearcoat is a matter of contention, but I always use Future as my clearcoat for washes. I have never had a problem using terps, mineral sprits (paint thinner), or naphtha attacking the clear coat unless a large "puddle" of wash exists. If you get a "puddle" dab it up immediately or else you will be sorry. You must find a method to cleanup the over-runs (i.e. splooges where the brush starts). When using a petrol based thinner for cleanup, do not apply more than a small drop to a clean rag or else you will have too much thinner and "dissolve" your panel lines. Lastly, if the panel line is not deep enough or distinct, a wash will not stick inside the panel line and survive clean-up. This is a huge problem with limited run kits that do not feature "crisp" panel lines (maybe this is your actual problem!). Personally, I don't use petrol based washes all that much any longer. My favorite is using artist tube watercolors mixed with acrylic thinner. Cleanup is easy using just a small drop of water on a clean cloth and watercolor washes are safe on any paint type. HTH ------Bob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:40:09 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Back in the saddle again Message-ID: <006901c28bfc$7f2759e0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Ray! > Hey Diego, welcome back. Did Wanda get you fixed yet??? Anyway > congratulations you old married guy i hope you are both extremely happy!! ;) Thanks man, we are truly elated. > btw anything you can post to the list about ficticious Nieuports, French > aircraft or five colour studies please do over the next day or so. Matt's > away so the mice are playing........... I'm brewing something... D. ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4776 **********************