WWI Digest 4759 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Shane Weier" 2) Re: Rugged rigging? by Larry Marshall 3) Re: Rugged rigging? by Dennis Ugulano 4) Re: 1/48 WW1 kits for sale on ebay by Larry Marshall 5) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Shane Weier" 6) Re: Rugged rigging? by Ray 7) Re: Rugged rigging? by Larry Marshall 8) Re: Rugged rigging? by Larry Marshall 9) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Steven Perry" 10) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Shane Weier" 11) Re: Rugged rigging? by Ray 12) Re: Rugged rigging? by Larry Marshall 13) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Shane Weier" 14) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Shane Weier" 15) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Steven Perry" 16) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Steven Perry" 17) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Shane Weier" 18) Re: Rugged rigging? by Larry Marshall 19) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Steven Perry" 20) Re: Rugged rigging? by Larry Marshall 21) Re: Nieuport 17 by "Matt Bittner" 22) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Steven Perry" 23) Re: Ceramcoat Acrylic CDL by "John Ernst" 24) Re: Ceramcoat Acrylic CDL by "Mike Muth" 25) Re: Nieuport 17 by Larry Marshall 26) Re: Rugged rigging? by Larry Marshall 27) Re: Ceramcoat Acrylic CDL by Larry Marshall 28) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Shane Weier" 29) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Shane Weier" 30) Re: Rugged rigging? by "Steven Perry" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 10:07:58 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: Steve, >have you tried drilling the holes with a short length of stiff wire? I use >guitar string. Yes and ditto. I find I have more control with the real thing, so guitar strings only come into play in desperate circumstances. Shane _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 19:09:30 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211061909.30269.larrym@sympatico.ca> > Agree entirely. It still doesn't affect my models which move from the car > @100F+ to airconditioned buildings with impunity. Could also be that you use a better form of monofilament. People talk about "invisible thread", which I assume comes from fabric stores. I don't know about that but I do know that different qualities of fishing monofilament exhibit differing amounts of stretch under tension and response to temperature. This becomes very evident if you're tying fine tippets for fly-fishing, which amounts to using the same diameters of line that you guys use. Speaking of this, has anyone used Dai-Riki monofilament? This stuff comes in very small diameters for making fly line tippets. I've got some that's .003 and it would be dandy for 1/72 scale if you were into drilling holes. > Yes, about one per model, two or three on a rigging nightmare. Small price > to pay for a model less at risk from my "skills" I know what you mean. It's the one thing I don't like about HSP. I do end up replacing several pieces of rigging while I'm rigging as I shove my thumb through something that's already installed :-) Tell me this, since we're talking about "skills" (I think when this is in quotes it would include my four thumbs), doesn't drilling all those holes and then filling them in again require "skills"? I've only done two models like this (back in the 60s) and it drove me mad. In short, I see the advantage once you're done but getting there seems full of disadvantages. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 19:18:01 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211061918_MC3-1-1921-F56E@compuserve.com> Pedro, >> the weather was quite humid << Interesting. The humidity where I presently live is very low. With what you are saying, I wonder what they would look like in the southern part of the country where I was raised. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://ronnieuggie.com/uggie/dju.htm Page Revised 08/10/2002 "Each modeler will rise to their own level of masochism." ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 19:24:27 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: 1/48 WW1 kits for sale on ebay Message-ID: <200211061924.27584.larrym@sympatico.ca> On Wednesday 06 November 2002 07:03 pm, you wrote: > I have a few nice WW1 kits on ebay - all are 1/48 scale. check out here: Good way to get some money to buy some true scale models :-) -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 10:27:34 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: Larry >Could also be that you use a better form of monofilament. People talk >about >"invisible thread", which I assume comes from fabric stores. For the record, mine is a roll of Coats invisible thread bought from my Mums Haberdashery about 15 years ago and still around 50% left. >Tell me this, since we're talking about "skills" (I think when this is in >quotes it would include my four thumbs), doesn't drilling all those holes >and >then filling them in again require "skills"? I suppose so but the cunning can reduce filling to a minimum by thoughtfull routing. For example, on an Albatros D.Va I have to fill two holes. It isn't always so simple though. >I've only done two models like >this (back in the 60s) and it drove me mad. In short, I see the advantage >once you're done but getting there seems full of disadvantages. Swings and roundabouts. I find it simple enough to drill the holes before painting (indeed, before *building*)where I getthe opportunity to repair any errors for free, and it's always always possible to restrict the filler required holes to under the lower wings in places which will be covered by inspection plates or national markings. In any case, like paint choices, airbrush preferences, and subject enthusiasms, this is one of those things best left to individual choice. I've tried all the others (and before Monofil used HSP) and now the only time I use anything else is a bit of ceramic fibre in special situations. Shane _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:24:28 -0800 From: Ray To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211061624.28378.Ray_Boorman@telus.net> Thats the same stuff I have used. You can get it anywhere sowing supplies are sold. On Wednesday 06 November 2002 16:29, you wrote: > Larry > > >Could also be that you use a better form of monofilament. People talk > >about > >"invisible thread", which I assume comes from fabric stores. > > For the record, mine is a roll of Coats invisible thread bought from my > Mums Haberdashery about 15 years ago and still around 50% left. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 19:52:04 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211061952.04418.larrym@sympatico.ca> > For the record, mine is a roll of Coats invisible thread bought from my > Mums Haberdashery about 15 years ago and still around 50% left. You're not doing much to bolster the Australian economy, Shane. There's got to be a more expensive way to do this. > I suppose so but the cunning can reduce filling to a minimum by thoughtfull > routing. Hmmm...could you put that in Modeling for Dummies language? > For example, on an Albatros D.Va I have to fill two holes. It > isn't always so simple though. Screech.....at least the brakes work. TWO HOLES? Tell me more? Does this mean you're not drilling a lot of holes through the wing? Will your method work in 1/72 with Roden-size struts? > Swings and roundabouts. I find it simple enough to drill the holes before > painting (indeed, before *building*)where I getthe opportunity to repair > any errors for free, and it's always always possible to restrict the filler > required holes to under the lower wings in places which will be covered by > inspection plates or national markings. My jaw is on the floor and I'm trying to say "How?" This, to me, is the thing that's crucial in any method. For instance, the description of rigging on the WWI site talks about doing all the rigging and then, somehow, "mask and paint the top of the top wing and the bottom of the bottom wing." Now how the heck do I "mask" a fully rigged model? Why would I want to (grin)? Likewise, Dennis's description is nice but it just says "drill your holes" and talks about doing it "near the struts." None of this suggests that you only have a couple small holes to fill on the bottom of the bottom wing. Tell me more!!! > In any case, like paint choices, airbrush preferences, and subject > enthusiasms, this is one of those things best left to individual choice. > I've tried all the others (and before Monofil used HSP) and now the only Agreed....but I'm a newbie to this plastics thing and so I'm in the 'try them' mode. This has a detrimental effect on my model production and certainly the model quality but I'm not the sort of guy who likes to say "This is best for me" unless I've tried all of the methods. > time I use anything else is a bit of ceramic fibre in special situations. A good stiff wire is very useful for very short runs to a control horn regardless of rigging method. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 19:57:06 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211061957.06939.larrym@sympatico.ca> On Wednesday 06 November 2002 07:37 pm, you wrote: > Thats the same stuff I have used. You can get it anywhere sowing supplies These are the guys who sell seeds, right? Sorry...I couldn't resist :-) -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 20:12:09 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <001701c285fa$b27ab6a0$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> > In any case, like paint choices, airbrush preferences, and subject > enthusiasms, this is one of those things best left to individual choice. > I've tried all the others (and before Monofil used HSP) and now the only > time I use anything else is a bit of ceramic fibre in special situations. I tried invisible thread a couple of times. Has the advantage of constant diameter and it will tighten up with heat. What I didn't like was that it was a bit harder to handle than HSP and it takes a lot more heat to tighten. Recently I started using a cheapie pencil soldering iron to tighten rigging. This gets too hot and I am always unplugging it and then plugging it in again. Not a real problem as I add a few wires then tighten them, then add some more. I can see that the iron would provide the extra heat I found necessary to tighten the invisible thread I have. I believe I will try invisible thread again and see if the iron works well on it. Has anyone tried hanging invisible thread with weights to straighten it out? Anyways to straighten it out? sp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 11:20:12 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: Larry, > > I suppose so but the cunning can reduce filling to a minimum by >thoughtfull > > routing. > >Hmmm...could you put that in Modeling for Dummies language? Cheat! > > > For example, on an Albatros D.Va I have to fill two holes. It > > isn't always so simple though. > >Screech.....at least the brakes work. TWO HOLES? Tell me more? Does this >mean you're not drilling a lot of holes through the wing? Will your method >work in 1/72 with Roden-size struts? Most recently, on the Eduard D.Va. The two holes I had to fill were n the top wing, where the drag wire from the nose has to exit. Because I left off the top wing crosses until after rigging and the holes were filed by the glue I just had to trim and bang on the crosses - no painting. On the underside ALL holes can be drilled to exit through one of the inspection panels. When done, trim rigging and glue the etched panels over the top. No filling, no painting, no trouble ! It's not always that easy, but thoughtfull construction will often reduce the work. >Now how >the heck do I "mask" a fully rigged model? Just finished a 1/48 Pfalz D.III Photocopied a plan of the aircraft, cut the *wing* shape out slightly oversized. Upend the model and use tape around just the very edge of the underside of the top wing to seal the gaps and hold on the mask Invert, spray top of top wing. Do it again up the other way Of course, the undercarriage may get in the way, but I usually build and rig *then* add the undercart > Why would I want to (grin)? LOL - naturally *you* won't, but it works for me. >Likewise, Dennis's description is nice but it just says "drill your holes" >and talks about doing it "near the struts." None of this suggests that you >only have a couple small holes to fill on the bottom of the bottom wing. >Tell me more!!! The holes don't *have* to go straight through. I angle them to come out where they can be hidden, consolidated into one hole for several wires or at least reduce the work >>I've tried all the others (and before Monofil used HSP) and now the only > >Agreed....but I'm a newbie to this plastics thing and so I'm in the 'try >them' >mode. Yes, well as that's what I'm suggesting (and to use what suits you best thereafter)it'll fit in perfectly well with...... >I'm not the sort of guy who likes to say "This is best for >me" unless I've tried all of the methods. > > time I use anything else is a bit of ceramic fibre in special >situations. > >A good stiff wire is very useful for very short runs to a control horn >regardless of rigging method. Indeed. Though I use monofil in that situation and good stiff wires in hard to get at places where it's hard to hide the holes (eg, cabane cross brace on the Dr.1 which otherwise needs holes in a very visible place where the paintwork can't easily be repaired to match the existing streaks) Shane _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 17:08:57 -0800 From: Ray To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211061708.57469.Ray_Boorman@telus.net> lol, you can go there, Ill go to the sewing supplies section ;) On Wednesday 06 November 2002 16:59, you wrote: > On Wednesday 06 November 2002 07:37 pm, you wrote: > > Thats the same stuff I have used. You can get it anywhere sowing supplies > > These are the guys who sell seeds, right? Sorry...I couldn't resist :-) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 20:24:18 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211062024.18602.larrym@sympatico.ca> > Recently I started using a cheapie pencil soldering iron to tighten > rigging. This gets too hot and I am always unplugging it and then plugging > it in again. Not a real problem as I add a few wires then tighten them, > then add some more. You might consider setting up a small box that amounts to a standard dimmer switch with a plug for your iron. Set it up so that you plug this into the 110 and then you can control the outlet the same was you control power to a light fixture. Once you find the place that provides the right temp, just make a mark for HSP and another for invisible thread and you're in control of your heat source. > invisible thread with weights to straighten it out? Anyways to straighten > it out? Isn't it just monofilament? Wasn't there just a discussion of doing just this? -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 11:25:13 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: SP >I tried invisible thread a couple of times. Has the advantage of constant >diameter and it will tighten up with heat. FWIW I *never* tighten it. Every wire is glued at one end, fed through the second hole and has a self locking tweezer attached and allowed to hang - so exactly the same tension. Glue is applied while it's under tension and tension only removed when the glue sets - under a minute usually. I *have* tightened it though, on a model which was dropped and needed some replacements added without redrilling holes. As noted, the smoking end of an extinguished match is NOT enough Anyway - whatever you do, meddle about with some variations. I haven't abandoned HSP rigging; though I don't use it on aircraft it works better on ships. No technique is ideal in every situation IMO Shane _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 11:33:32 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: SP asks >Has anyone tried hanging >invisible thread with weights to straighten it out? Eh? What for? It's as soft as a ......errr, anyway, it's soft. Tighten er up and she'll be straight as a die. Trust me ;-) Shane _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 20:40:56 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <003601c285fe$b77ff940$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> > > Isn't it just monofilament? Wasn't there just a discussion of doing just > this? Yws, and quite posibly, computer housekeeping ended up wiping out my e-mail earlier. I probably lost some messages Thanks for the dimmer idea, I'll try that. sp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 20:46:05 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <003c01c285ff$6fb85020$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> > SP asks > > >Has anyone tried hanging > >invisible thread with weights to straighten it out? > > Eh? What for? > > It's as soft as a ......errr, anyway, it's soft. > > Tighten er up and she'll be straight as a die. Trust me ;-) I install rigging from point to point and almost never drill through, although I do use dimples made with the point of a #11 blade to anchor things. In this method the curved invisible thread is a little harder to manipulate than a straight piece of HSP, hence my question. I rely on heat stretching to thighten it up when both ends are dry, thus the straighter the piece to begin with, the easier the tightening job. sp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 12:05:37 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: SP >I rely on heat >stretching to thighten it up when both ends are dry, thus the straighter >the >piece to begin with, the easier the tightening job. Okay, get it. However the monofil I use is so flexible that any length just *droops* Shane _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 21:22:53 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211062122.53371.larrym@sympatico.ca> > I install rigging from point to point and almost never drill through, > although I do use dimples made with the point of a #11 blade to anchor > things. In this method the curved invisible thread is a little harder to > manipulate than a straight piece of HSP, hence my question. I'm right behind you Steve. You have me with the 'almost never drill through' part :-) Tommorrow I'm going to head for the sewing store and pick up some invisible thread. I've given some thought to my statement about monofilaments being able to be straightened and I've even done one test. I think it depends on the nature of the monofilament. In the fly-fishing world you can by 'stiff' or 'limp' tippet material. The stiff stuff will straighten under tension but the limp stuff is....well...limp and no amount of trying will straighten it. My 'test' was to find my roll of Dai-Riki .003" monofilament and try to straighten it. It's of the limp variety and I didn't hold much hope. I even tried holding it over a lightbulb under tension and it seemed to have no effect. BUT, I then CA'd a couple sticks together into a 'V' so I could 'rig' across the ends. I dropped a drop of Tacky Glue on each end of the 'V' and draped some monofilament over the ends. When I say 'draped' I mean it. It bellied downward at least 1/4" below where 'straight' would be. I wanted to see about the shrinking. Anyways, I left this for about 10 minutes and then heated a needle, brought the needle close to the monofilament and WHAM, it snapped taught as could be. Looks great, and only .003" in diameter. > I rely on heat stretching to thighten it up when both ends are dry, thus the straighten the piece to begin with, the easier the tightening job. So you're able to use invisible thread just by dimpling the plastic at point A and point B and gluing the monofilament in place between the points. Hmmmm...me thinks I must try this as my test suggests I could drop down to .003" with ease and that would be nice in 1/72 as that's less than 1/4" in diameter. Too many methods....too little time. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 21:29:34 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <005401c28605$82af9a20$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> > Okay, get it. However the monofil I use is so flexible that any length just > *droops* Yeah, I found that with my invisible thread too. I'm not patient or coordinated enough to hold a piece run point to point fairly taught till the glue dries, so that makes my untightened IT droopier than untightened HSP. I expect the extra heat of the iron will compensate for that. Before the iron, I used a pin in a bamboo handle heated in a candle flame, so far I have avoided sticking a wing or tail in the flame, but I came close on the I'lya. I'm beginning to feel like a fugative from the law of averages on this point. I'll try the IT on one of the Breguets I'm working on.......just as soon as I make the 24 mainplane struts out of bamboo I'll need for the 3 Breguets. :-) sp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 21:28:41 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211062128.41164.larrym@sympatico.ca> On Wednesday 06 November 2002 08:21 pm, you wrote: > On the underside ALL holes can be drilled to exit through one of the > inspection panels. When done, trim rigging and glue the etched panels over > the top. No filling, no painting, no trouble ! And you're applying 'inspection panels' as decal material? So, what you're saying is that you're drilling all the way through but that you're just covering the holes rather than filling them. > Photocopied a plan of the aircraft, cut the *wing* shape out slightly > oversized. Upend the model and use tape around just the very edge of the > underside of the top wing to seal the gaps and hold on the mask Sounds ugly. I can see how it would work but I suspect my four thumbs would get in the way. > > Why would I want to (grin)? > > LOL - naturally *you* won't, but it works for me. That's the important thing. > The holes don't *have* to go straight through. I angle them to come out > where they can be hidden, consolidated into one hole for several wires or > at least reduce the work Maybe in 1/48 this is true but a Roden wing is only .03-.04" thick so you're not going to "angle" those exit holes very far away from the entry point. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 20:28:44 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Re: Nieuport 17 Message-ID: On Wed, 6 Nov 2002 14:12:28 -0500 (EST), Larry Marshall wrote: > That's why I suggested it. Isn't the fuselage the same? If he's got top > wing, struts, spinner and undercarriage, it doesn't seem that there's much > lacking for a complete resin kit. From what little I know, the Choroszy kit > is the only competition and they're considerably more expensive than Rosemont > kits. The only Triplane he has done so far is the Nie.10 tripe. Sorry, wrong fuselage and everything else. :-) Matt ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 21:41:55 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <005a01c28607$3c7ccc60$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> > So you're able to use invisible thread just by dimpling the plastic at point A > and point B and gluing the monofilament in place between the points. > Hmmmm...me thinks I must try this as my test suggests I could drop down to > .003" with ease and that would be nice in 1/72 as that's less than 1/4" in > diameter. > > Too many methods....too little time. Yeah, but think of all the time you save the rest of us with your experiments :-) My IT doesn't say a diameter, but it seems thinner than 5 thou card, so it's .004 or .003. I find I can often get away with a single dimple or none at all with HSP, but the dimpling is pretty much necessary with the IT. There is also the method of making an "eye" out of fine copper armature wire and gluing the tail end into a #80 hole drilled part way into the wing. One on each end, the end where the turnbuckle would be is formed around a piece of 10 x 30 or 40 thou strip while the other one is formed around a small diameter round wire. With the eyes glued at each end, you can attach the IT to one end and when dry, it's easy to pull it tight and hold it that way while the glue dries. sp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 21:40:25 -0500 From: "John Ernst" To: "wwi list" Subject: Re: Ceramcoat Acrylic CDL Message-ID: Mike, The color I used for the cdl on the Nieuport 11 was Ceramcoat "Ivory". john ernst ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 21:56:17 -0500 From: "Mike Muth" To: Subject: Re: Ceramcoat Acrylic CDL Message-ID: <015e01c28609$3f07d220$6547bacc@ptdprolog.net> John Thanks. That's the second time I liked the color and it turned out to be ceramcoat. Gotta find it somewhere around here. Mike Muth ----- Original Message ----- From: John Ernst To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 9:43 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Ceramcoat Acrylic CDL > Mike, > > The color I used for the cdl on the Nieuport 11 was Ceramcoat "Ivory". > > john ernst > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 22:26:59 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Nieuport 17 Message-ID: <200211062226.59510.larrym@sympatico.ca> > The only Triplane he has done so far is the Nie.10 tripe. Sorry, > wrong fuselage and everything else. :-) Yeah...I went and looked at it tonight and noticed that it's the earlier fuselage. Then again, a nice N10/12 kit would be great too :-) -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 22:31:08 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <200211062231.08941.larrym@sympatico.ca> > Yeah, but think of all the time you save the rest of us with your > experiments :-) ...the time you guys have saved me more than compensates. > My IT doesn't say a diameter, but it seems thinner than 5 thou card, so > it's .004 or .003. I find I can often get away with a single dimple or none > at all with HSP, but the dimpling is pretty much necessary with the IT. Very interesting. I'll try to find some tommorrow. Coats & Clark here I come. > There is also the method of making an "eye" out of fine copper armature > wire and gluing the tail end into a #80 hole drilled part way into the > wing. Uh huh....this is for people who can see and have only two thumbs. I've done this sort of thing in larger scales....much larger :-) -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 22:32:14 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Ceramcoat Acrylic CDL Message-ID: <200211062232.14883.larrym@sympatico.ca> > Thanks. That's the second time I liked the color and it turned out to be > ceramcoat. Gotta find it somewhere around here. If you like using Ceramcoat, the ivory and the Raw Linen look pretty good as CDL. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 13:45:25 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: Larry, >And you're applying 'inspection panels' as decal material? Or brass or 5 thou styrene sheet. >So, what you're >saying is that you're drilling all the way through but that you're just >covering the holes rather than filling them. Yes. Cheating. It only works where there's a convenient inspection panel though! > > The holes don't *have* to go straight through. I angle them to >Maybe in 1/48 this is true but a Roden wing is only .03-.04" thick so >you're >not going to "angle" those exit holes very far away from the entry point. Mmmm. Worked okay on the Toko Pfalz D.XII just the same. Shane _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 13:48:00 +1000 From: "Shane Weier" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: SP mentions: >There is also the method of making an "eye" out of fine copper armature >wire I first heard of this method from a Japanese listee maybe 6 or more years ago. For the life of me, I can't bring his name to mind Hiro? That said - can anyone remember who I mean, and has anyone heard from him? I last had an email 2 years ago (about) when he was trying to get in touch with Mike Franklin Shane _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 23:07:29 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: <000901c28613$30a649a0$63244918@tampabay.rr.com> > I first heard of this method from a Japanese listee maybe 6 or more years > ago. For the life of me, I can't bring his name to mind > > Hiro? Yes, it was Hiro who had the idea. I heard about it from Joey Valencino who credited it to Hiro. sp ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4759 **********************