WWI Digest 4754 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: UK Nats at Telford by Crawford Neil 2) Re: UK Nats at Telford by xtv16@dial.pipex.com 3) Revell 1/48th builds... by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 4) Re: UK Nats at Telford by Crawford Neil 5) Re: UK Nats at Telford by "Diego Fernetti" 6) Re: Revell 1/48th builds... by "Diego Fernetti" 7) Balsa and tissue models by "Patrick H Lewis" 8) Re: UK Nats at Telford by Crawford Neil 9) Re: UK Nats at Telford by "Diego Fernetti" 10) Re: UK Nats at Telford by Crawford Neil 11) The lure of the old things by "Diego Fernetti" 12) Re: Balsa and tissue models by "Thomas Solinski" 13) Re: Balsa and tissue models (pt1) by Larry Marshall 14) Re: Balsa and tissue models (pt2) by Larry Marshall 15) FW: SPAD VII & XIII drawings by Crawford Neil 16) Re: Camel question by Crawford Neil 17) RE: Rigging Query and a Thank you! by Crawford Neil 18) Re: Roland D.VI by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 19) Re: Roland D.VI by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 20) RE: Rigging Query and a Thank you! by Larry Marshall 21) Re: Rigging Query and a Thank you! by "Stuart L. Malone" 22) Re: Rigging Query and a Thank you! by Larry Marshall 23) Re: German Propeller Logos by Tom Sollers 24) Re: German Propeller Logos by "Lance Krieg" 25) NEW STOCK PICK: NVHG - LAST PICK UP 300%.............................................................................................................................................................................................. jlu by "WALL STREET BULLETIN..46403" 26) Re: Rigging Query and a Thank you! by Michael Fletcher 27) Re: Rigging Query and a Thank you! by "Dave Burke" 28) Re: Revell 1/48th builds... by "Hans Trauner" 29) 有实力卡商，请一定阅读本邮件！（赚钱好机会） #4AB7 by webweaver@pearson.mathematik.hu-berlin.d 30) Rugged rigging? by Ed Allen ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 11:06:11 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: UK Nats at Telford Message-ID: What's R'N'D Dave? 5 hours is about the same as I have up to Stockholm, only do that every other year, but it's worth it. /Neil C. > If I can shake off this flu, I hope to be there Saturday too. > Either Harrier or > R'N'D SIG will be 'homebase'. > > 5 hours there,5 hours back and I can only go for one day, sheesh! > > Dave > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 10:29:32 +0000 From: xtv16@dial.pipex.com To: Subject: Re: UK Nats at Telford Message-ID: <1036492172.3dc79d8cb267a@netmail.pipex.net> Quoting Crawford Neil : > > What's R'N'D Dave? Research and Development (Projected and cancelled) Protoypes, cancelled types, captured, and paper projects (but NOT what if) Dave ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 22:15:02 +1100 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: Revell 1/48th builds... Message-ID: <00dd01c284bc$96502cb0$1b4e2dcb@future> http://www.msc-hansgrade.de/SE5modell_MMerker.htm http://www.msc-hansgrade.de/SE5modell_JBauer.htm And if one of our German Lisstees could translate this page for us.. http://www.msc-hansgrade.purespace.de/der_oldtimerSE5aJB2002.htm But there is one word on this page that i think we can understand... Cheers Ross ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 12:17:17 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: UK Nats at Telford Message-ID: Thought it might be that, but couldn't work out how it could be a SIG. Sounds like a particuarly nice SIG. /Neil C. > > What's R'N'D Dave? > > Research and Development (Projected and cancelled) > > Protoypes, cancelled types, captured, and paper projects > (but NOT what if) > > Dave > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 08:26:10 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: UK Nats at Telford Message-ID: <021b01c284be$242ee160$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Resist temptation Neil! Resist! You can do it! D. WW1, Golden Age, Racers and Dragon Rapide listee ----- Original Message ----- From: "Crawford Neil" > Thought it might be that, but couldn't work out how it could be > a SIG. Sounds like a particuarly nice SIG. > /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 08:36:09 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: Revell 1/48th builds... Message-ID: <023f01c284bf$8984d8c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Ross wrote: > http://www.msc-hansgrade.de/SE5modell_MMerker.htm Excellent build! > http://www.msc-hansgrade.de/SE5modell_JBauer.htm I liked the first one better, dunno exactly why. Both models have nice and well done paint schemes. > http://www.msc-hansgrade.purespace.de/der_oldtimerSE5aJB2002.htm Good idea to put the windscreen on! Much more solid than just trusting to white glue on the edge! D. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 06:14:04 -0600 From: "Patrick H Lewis" To: Subject: Balsa and tissue models Message-ID: <004001c284c4$d6851ea0$2827a3d1@u00t2> Just a thought before I call it a day... Are there any balsa and tissue modelers in the group? I started a Fokker Eindecker (Guillow) some years ago, but got put off by some bad kit instructions and the smell of butyrate(sp?) dope. I probably didn't need to use the dope because it wasn't going to be a gas powered plane. I had a lot of fun building it, though, up to a point...I even started to cover the wings, but I realized that unless I got some serious ventilation in my workshop, I was going to be in for a very difficult time...(The kit was started in the Fall and went on well into Xmas and beyond...no open windows...and the smell of the dope always drifted up from the basement into the kitchen...It didn't do a darn thing for "domestic harmony", I can tell you!) I still have balsa kits for a Nie.11 and a Fok. Dr I sitting around somewhere...(Wish I would have bought the Sterling(?) Alb. DII when I had the chance...I haven't seen it in the shops for a long time.) But, to my point...I recall that in one of my books they talked about using diluted white glue instead of dope to cover the wings. The thing that's come to my mind in recent times is that it might be possible to use one of the modeler's best friends, Future floor polish, instead of the dope or diluted white glue. I've thought about diluting some Future with alcohol and/or water and "spritzing" it on the tissue. Of course, I realize that if I've thought of it, I can almost guarantee that someone else has, too. Has anybody tried this, or have I actually come up with an original idea? (I'd fall over in a dead faint if I had with this group!) I may use what's left of the Eindecker's wings and see how it reacts to the "experiment"...I've long since given up on actually seeing the thing completed and flying. *sigh* Please let me know your thoughts...Perhaps those other two planes will be built if I can come up with a more "domestically environmentally friendly" way of getting the tissue where it's supposed to go....(It's nice to have dreams, isn't it?*grin*) Stick back, nose up Patrick ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:22:37 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: UK Nats at Telford Message-ID: I lost that battle 40 years ago! I will build anything that flew, and I think I have enough prototypes on my shelves for that SIG. The challenge is to build one model that qualifys for as many mailing-lists and SIGs as possible! The Deperdussin racer will get you into at least 3, including that one because it was a prototype. /Neil C. > > Resist temptation Neil! Resist! You can do it! > D. > WW1, Golden Age, Racers and Dragon Rapide listee > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Crawford Neil" > > > Thought it might be that, but couldn't work out how it could be > > a SIG. Sounds like a particuarly nice SIG. > > /Neil C. > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:34:25 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: UK Nats at Telford Message-ID: <02dd01c284c7$ad353960$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> I understand... Once I received a book about pre-1903 flying machines designs as a present. I'm still haunted by ideas about Ader Eoles and Da Vinci Helicopters... Just modern jets leave me indifferent. D. mmm... there was a turbine-powered aircraft in 1912.... I have a three view drawing... ohhh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Crawford Neil" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 9:23 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: UK Nats at Telford > I lost that battle 40 years ago! I will build anything that flew, > and I think I have enough prototypes on my shelves for that SIG. > The challenge is to build one model that qualifys for as many > mailing-lists and SIGs as possible! The Deperdussin racer will get > you into at least 3, including that one because it was a prototype. > /Neil C. > > > > > Resist temptation Neil! Resist! You can do it! > > D. > > WW1, Golden Age, Racers and Dragon Rapide listee > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Crawford Neil" > > > > > Thought it might be that, but couldn't work out how it could be > > > a SIG. Sounds like a particuarly nice SIG. > > > /Neil C. > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:41:33 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: UK Nats at Telford Message-ID: Well, there's a difference, I made a decision years ago to ignore anything that didn't fly. So seeing as I regard the Wright brothers as the first (without question), then December 1903 is where I start. My upper limit shifts with today's date, and yes I will happily build jets, though the last I built was 6 or 7 years ago, the lure of old aircraft is enormous, as we all know. /Neil C. > I understand... Once I received a book about pre-1903 flying machines > designs as a present. I'm still haunted by ideas about Ader > Eoles and Da > Vinci Helicopters... Just modern jets leave me indifferent. > D. > mmm... there was a turbine-powered aircraft in 1912.... I > have a three view > drawing... ohhh > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:56:08 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: The lure of the old things Message-ID: <030801c284ca$b60471c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Speaking of luring objects... Yesterday I found in a very dusty antique shop I usually visit, an old propeller with the blade tips cut up crudely and thickly varnished with an old brush. The shop owner (imagine a human version of Watto) told me that the propeller came from an old hidroplane from the 1800s... Nonsense. While he was blabbing, I examined the object and found stamped on the hub side the faint words "LE RHONE" and a little below "AVRO". Since Avro 504s were present in Argentina, I guess that it's from one of these. What would be the cost of this old, mistreated, clipped up propeller in the market? D. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Crawford Neil" > Well, there's a difference, I made a decision years ago to ignore > anything that didn't fly. So seeing as I regard the Wright brothers > as the first (without question), then December 1903 is where I start. > My upper limit shifts with today's date, and yes I will happily build > jets, though the last I built was 6 or 7 years ago, the lure of old aircraft > is enormous, as we all know. > /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 07:01:55 -0600 From: "Thomas Solinski" To: Subject: Re: Balsa and tissue models Message-ID: <004301c284cb$84a923e0$9eb40c44@ok.cox.net> Patrick Go to the local office supply and buy a stick of stick glue. Or elmers makes a clear blue glue that works very well at bonding tissue. Watered down white glue was a good solution ;-) to the smell but took too long to dry and tended to warp smaller structures. (not a problem on the eindecker) Just rub the stick glue on the panel you want to cover then gently stretch the tissue over the area. then use water or alchohol in a fine spray to wet the tissue and draw it tight. Spray on laqure from the hobby lobby will keep the tissue dry and taught. HTH MrT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick H Lewis" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 6:15 AM Subject: [WWI] Balsa and tissue models > Just a thought before I call it a day... > > Are there any balsa and tissue modelers in the group? I started a Fokker > Eindecker (Guillow) some years ago, but got put off by some bad kit > instructions and the smell of butyrate(sp?) dope. I probably didn't need to > use the dope because it wasn't going to be a gas powered plane. I had a lot > of fun building it, though, up to a point...I even started to cover the > wings, but I realized that unless I got some serious ventilation in my > workshop, I was going to be in for a very difficult time...(The kit was > started in the Fall and went on well into Xmas and beyond...no open > windows...and the smell of the dope always drifted up from the basement into > the kitchen...It didn't do a darn thing for "domestic harmony", I can tell > you!) I still have balsa kits for a Nie.11 and a Fok. Dr I sitting around > somewhere...(Wish I would have bought the Sterling(?) Alb. DII when I had > the chance...I haven't seen it in the shops for a long time.) > > But, to my point...I recall that in one of my books they talked about using > diluted white glue instead of dope to cover the wings. The thing that's come > to my mind in recent times is that it might be possible to use one of the > modeler's best friends, Future floor polish, instead of the dope or diluted > white glue. I've thought about diluting some Future with alcohol and/or > water and "spritzing" it on the tissue. Of course, I realize that if I've > thought of it, I can almost guarantee that someone else has, too. Has > anybody tried this, or have I actually come up with an original idea? (I'd > fall over in a dead faint if I had with this group!) I may use what's left > of the Eindecker's wings and see how it reacts to the "experiment"...I've > long since given up on actually seeing the thing completed and flying. > *sigh* > > Please let me know your thoughts...Perhaps those other two planes will be > built if I can come up with a more "domestically environmentally friendly" > way of getting the tissue where it's supposed to go....(It's nice to have > dreams, isn't it?*grin*) > > Stick back, nose up > Patrick > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 08:11:50 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Balsa and tissue models (pt1) Message-ID: <200211050811.50998.larrym@sympatico.ca> Sometimes this short message limit really stifles discussion :-( > > Are there any balsa and tissue modelers in the group? I started a Fokker > > Yes. > > > Eindecker (Guillow) some years ago, but got put off by some bad kit > > instructions and the smell of butyrate(sp?) dope. I probably didn't need > > to > > Many of us no longer use dope of any kind. I build rubber-power and > electric FF models and use only a quick spray of Krylon Krystal-Cote once > the model if finished. I just step outside, give the model a spray and > come back in. Works even in Quebec City winters. > > For what it's worth, I wouldn't build a Guillows kit unless my life > depended upon it. There are much better kits on the market but more > important, thousands of plans exist and it's much more fun to build from > plans rather than from a kit where the parts have been 'crushed' from > balsa. > > > tell you!) I still have balsa kits for a Nie.11 and a Fok. Dr I sitting > > around somewhere...(Wish I would have bought the Sterling(?) Alb. DII > > when I had the chance...I haven't seen it in the shops for a long time.) > > Sterling is another line that I avoid. These 'hobby shop' lines are 'ok' > but they are very heavy designs and the balsa in the kits are horrible. > > > But, to my point...I recall that in one of my books they talked about > > using diluted white glue instead of dope to cover the wings. The thing > > that's > > It works. I don't like the technique as it involves water which shrinks > the tissue as you apply it. Also, the kits you're talking about come with > cheap domestic tissue rather than good Japanese tissue and domestic tissue > has very little wet strength so you would probably find tht the white glue > method would have the edges of the tissue coming apart on you as you were > applying the tissue. > > These days, a lot of people use glue sticks to attach tissue. This is a > very non-smelly and slick way of attaching tissue. You just rub the glue > stick everywhere you want glue, wait for it to set up just a bit and lay > the tissue on the structure. Plain old rubbing alcohol will activate the > glue and you can also activate it with heat (I use a small iron). -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 08:12:29 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Balsa and tissue models (pt2) Message-ID: <200211050812.29741.larrym@sympatico.ca> > > Future floor polish, instead of the dope or diluted white glue. > > Might work except that you need something that will dry quickly unless you > are an octopus and able to hold sheets of tissue tightly on the structure > for an hour or so while the Future dries. > > > I've thought about diluting some Future with alcohol and/or water and > > "spritzing" it on the tissue. > > Why? Do you mean as a covering sealant? If so, any of the modern > photo/pastel/art fixatives will serve this purpose much better. I use > Krylon because it's cheap. > > > Of course, I realize that if I've thought of it, I can almost guarantee > > that > > someone else has, too. > > I have never heard of anyone trying this. It would be interesting to hear > any results you get from the method. > > > Please let me know your thoughts...Perhaps those other two planes will be > > built if I can come up with a more "domestically environmentally > > friendly" way of getting the tissue where it's supposed to go....(It's > > nice to have dreams, isn't it?*grin*) > > There is not much more 'domestically friendly' than the glue stick method > of attachment and many of the spray fixatives don't smell much. You might > be able to substitute Future but realize that spraying alcohol onto tissue > causes it to shrink. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:05:16 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: FW: SPAD VII & XIII drawings Message-ID: Been looking at this again yesterday. There was nothing wrong with wheel position on either Spad 13 drawing, they weren't properly to the same scale. Here are my conclusions, any comments are very welcome. /Neil C. SPAD VII --------- I checked the Windsock datafiles and Wylam drawings, they seem to correspond very well, both to given dimensions and general shape. I prefer the Wylam drawings because they are slightly deeper in the fuselage (about 2mm in 1/48). I checked a lot of photos, and I think Ian Stairs drawing in the datafile are too shallow. The Wylam drawing is more detailed, though I think the wing leading edge is not as smooth as Wylam drew them. I am a little sceptical about the Wylam drawings as they are rather old, whereas the Stair drawings are more modern. Tricky! If I was scratchbuilding I'd use the Wylam drawings for general shape, at the same time constantly cross-checking with the Ian Stair drawing and photos. SPAD XIII --------- This is much easier, trash the Wylam drawings, the rear fuselage is way too shallow. The Doug Carrick drawings in the Windsock datafile are excellent both to given dimensions and general shape. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:09:35 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Camel question Message-ID: Last time I was there, it was for sale at our local aviation bookshop for 300SEK (about US$31) heres his mail adress: JustusAB@telia.com /Neil C. > > http://www.air- > britain.co.uk/books/acatalog/Books_Main_Menu_The_File_Series_6.html > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:30:15 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Rigging Query and a Thank you! Message-ID: Patrick: > The idea of using wire is appealing to me; I'm fairly > confident that I can > measure, cut, and glue, and knowing that it can be attached > without drilling > myriad holes makes it even moreso. (Not to mention that the > thought of using > HSP and *any* kind of heat source scares the pudding out of > me... Well if the stainless steel wire is anything like the stuff I get, you won't be able to use it without heat. Before I learnt the trick from Alberto (God bless him) I thought you had to use it like monofilament, drilling holes threading it through etc. The trick is to slowly pass the wire through a candle flame, till it glows red, that takes the spring out of it, and renders it straight. Also blackens it rather nicely. It's not easier than HSP rigging, I think a little more difficult, but it's stronger, and IMHO looks better. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 16:14:24 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Roland D.VI Message-ID: <036b01c284de$07c125e0$0200a8c0@grzesiek> Diego! > Interesting! > All the 300 airplanes were captured? Those are more than the displayed in > the Polish museum. No. misunderstanding. Almost 300 planes were captured in Poznan-Winiary in January 1919 - these were used in frontline service in the Polish-Bolshevik war, and their fate was the usual fate of the frontline planes - some were shot down by ground fire, some crashed in accidents, some were scrapped, one (Halb. Cl.II) was shot down by a Soviet SPAD VII. Some were preserved in Polish museums till 1939, later destroyed or captured by Germans, but none survived the WWII. Planes which are in Krakow now, were captured (more precisely - found) in 1945. G. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 16:16:36 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Roland D.VI Message-ID: <037501c284de$55d62960$0200a8c0@grzesiek> Mike! > What museum was the photo taken at? > Mike Muth It's a Hans Trauner photo, available on our List Website. Here you have detailed description: http://www.wwi-models.org/Photos/Ger/Halb_ClIV/index.html G. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 10:26:04 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Rigging Query and a Thank you! Message-ID: <200211051026.04061.larrym@sympatico.ca> > The trick is to slowly pass the wire through a candle flame, till > it glows red, that takes the spring out of it, and renders it straight. This is the real soft stuff, Neil. The stainless you get from Small Parts doesn't require any of this and is dead straight when you pull it out of the tube and it stays that way. > Also blackens it rather nicely. It's not easier than HSP rigging, > I think a little more difficult, but it's stronger, and IMHO looks better. With this softer stuff I sure agree with this statement, though I don't see the 'looks better' part. HSP that's been coated with MM metalizer looks really nice to my eye. Different strokes I guess. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 09:36:16 -0600 From: "Stuart L. Malone" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rigging Query and a Thank you! Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20021105093043.00b14958@pop-server.kc.rr.com> I saw the piano wire at the same URL given for stainless; www.smallparts.com The dimensions were identical. I've used stretched sprue for struts on Merlin and Pegasus kits of the past, so I'm not new to the idea, but I do have a question on the topic of HSP. How would one stretch sprue without heat? ;) Stuart L. Malone At 10:13 PM 11/4/2002 -0500, you wrote: >I'd have to see piano wire that thin to answer this question. Where have you >seen it? Are you sure you're not talking about the .047" wire which is the >smallest stuff that K&S (the stuff most hobby shops carry)? > >-- >Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 11:02:59 -0500 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rigging Query and a Thank you! Message-ID: <200211051102.59254.larrym@sympatico.ca> > I've used stretched sprue for struts on Merlin and Pegasus kits of the > past, so I'm not new to the idea, but I do have a question on the topic of > HSP. How would one stretch sprue without heat? ;) An equally good question is how to stretch anything with heat :-) Admittedly the acronym suggests, grammatically, that the heat is stretching the sprue and could be seen as redundant since without heat you'd have to pull awfully hard and slow for a VERY long time :-) That's why I see "highly stretched sprue" as being a better translation, though nobody uses it :-) As for the fine piano wire, why not give it a try. How far wrong can you go? You'll find that there are at least 2 forms of stainless wire in use. The stuff from Small Parts is very hard and very straight. I don't think it would handle better/worse than a piano wire equivalent. The softer stainless is much cheaper but I found it a pain to work with as it doesn't maintain its straightness and you've got to heat-treat it as Neil has described. Someone mentioned ruse with the piano wire and that may be one problem you could face with it. Someone else talked about painting stainless. I haven't done this except to overspray the entire model with Testors Dullcote to tone down the bright shine of the stainless. If Small Parts would have been willing to ship me stainless without using UPS I would probably still be using their stuff. As it is, I tried HSP and found that it's just so much easier to apply to the model as 1) it will bend which is sometimes nice when you're trying to place it, 2) length is less critical as you can easily shrink it to fit, 3) while Neil will disagree, I feel it provides considerable strength to the model without adding any weight, 4) it's cheap, 5) I never run out of the stuff, and 6) I can control thickness and thus the technique will work regardless of scale I build in. This last thing may be important to you since you expect to build in two scales. The 1/48 builders have reported that the .005" wire sags if the rigging run gets much more than 10cm. I had some problems in this range with the one 1/48 model I've built so I can somewhat confirm this. Then again, you can move to thicker wire but that requires shopping some more :-) -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 11:07:15 -0500 From: Tom Sollers To: Subject: Re: German Propeller Logos Message-ID: Lance: > Who else produces almost 200 OT decal sheets? Good point. > there are copious examples of most > component markings like crosses and cockades on all sheets; each sheet > generally supplies dozens of choices, so I can find one that works > without much trouble. Good point. > The propeller logos are beautiful by anyone's standards, including > Aeromaster's. OK. I'm sold. What is the sheet # for the propeller logos? And the price? It's not on their site. I'll try some other sheets too. Thanks! Tom ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 10:21:30 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: German Propeller Logos Message-ID: Tom asks: "What is the sheet # for the propeller logos? And the price?" 177 Scales 1:72, 178 1:48 179 1:32, 180 1:28, All are $12.50, plus post per the catalog. Oh, and Matt has an updated catalogue, which I believe he will post when he has time. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 10:47:07 -0600 From: "WALL STREET BULLETIN..46403" To: Subscriber.Acct.#99498 Subject: NEW STOCK PICK: NVHG - LAST PICK UP 300%.............................................................................................................................................................................................. jlu Message-ID: <3DC7A52E0001A96C@mta03.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com)

Did you miss out on PRCT, UP 300%?

Here's another pick - Another Short Play

CLICK HERE

 

 

I no longer wish to receive your newsletter click here

btswgxvpuclpiixy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 12:13:12 -0500 From: Michael Fletcher To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rigging Query and a Thank you! Message-ID: <3DC7FC28.C31FB66D@rogers.com> why not soak the sprue in solvent - when it gets nice and soft it should stretch. It'd be kinda sticky though. M ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 11:48:12 -0600 From: "Dave Burke" To: Subject: Re: Rigging Query and a Thank you! Message-ID: <005d01c284f3$83844bc0$6173fea9@s0024008072> > why not soak the sprue in solvent - when it gets nice and soft it > should stretch. It'd be kinda sticky though. > > M No, it will get melty and gummy and turn into nothingness. DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 18:49:15 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Revell 1/48th builds... Message-ID: <006901c284f3$a8a992c0$c0ab72d4@FRITZweb> And if one of our German Lisstees could translate this page for us.. http://www.msc-hansgrade.purespace.de/der_oldtimerSE5aJB2002.htm But there is one word on this page that i think we can understand... Which one? ;-) I'll do that. Give me a one hour or so. I am hungry and after diner I'll do that. Hans ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 23:50:23 +0800 From: webweaver@pearson.mathematik.hu-berlin.d To: 卡@Dell.jym.com.cn Subject: 有实力卡商，请一定阅读本邮件！（赚钱好机会） #4AB7 Message-ID: {74920CA5-04C3-46AA-BBAD-557E8FB5BAFC}@myserver 7CCE 受一家大公司委托（说出来大家都会知道），处理销售一批卡片，信息如下： 卡名：联通165上网卡 特点：全国漫游 有效期到2003/12/31 实物卡 数量：面值22万 折扣：低于联通批发价格 面值的1.9-1.98折 具体情况请联络13311066093 张先生 --- 如此邮件打搅了你，请随手删除，谢谢！ --- 按照国际惯例，只要本邮件包括“联系信息”和“移除信息”，就不应被看做垃圾信件。如果您想我们从邮件列表中移除您的邮件地址，请用您想移除的信箱发信到remove_maillist@cnuninet.com，信件主题：“Remove"，如果本邮件给您带来了不便，我们深表歉意。 Under Bill s.1618 Title III passed by the 105th U.S. Congress this mail cannot be considered Spam as long as we include contact information and a remove link for removal from our mailing list. To be removed from our mailing list reply with "remove" and include your "original email address/addresses" in the subject heading send to remove_maillist@cnuninet.com. Include complete address/addresses and/or domain to be removed. We will immediately update it accordingly. We apologize for the inconvenience if any caused. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 12:51:14 -0800 From: Ed Allen To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Rugged rigging? Message-ID: I'm getting back into WWI air modelling after a long hiatus, and never having done much in the period before. I'm doing some 1/72 kits at the simpler end of finish to use them for playing Canvas Eagles - http://www.generalissue.com/canvas.html This means these will not be showpieces that take several weeks each, as I have to crank out several to use in games soon. I'm doing mostly a batch of old Airfix, Revell, and Esci kits I stashed years ago with vague ideas of building them for some game. I'd like to try rigging, which I haven't done before, but it will need to be tough since these will be handled in a game by me and my other ham handed friends. My guess is that stretched sprue is likely to be fragile, so I should probably use metal wire or monofilament thread. Is the thread system the one that is more likely to make the models stronger rather than requiring additional maintenance repairs between dogfights? -- ------------------------------------------------------------------ Ed Allen Programmer/System Administrator Stanford Genome Technology Center Stanford University allen@sequence.stanford.edu ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4754 **********************