WWI Digest 4687 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Emhar A7V by "Diego Fernetti" 2) Re: small contests by Larry Marshall 3) Re: Future uses, was: Future and Vallejo acrylics by Larry Marshall 4) Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics by "Pedro N. Soares" 5) Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics by "Pedro N. Soares" 6) Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics by "Pedro N. Soares" 7) Re: Photo of "my" Camel by "Diego Fernetti" 8) Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics by Larry Marshall 9) Re: Macchi M.9 by "Diego Fernetti" 10) Re: AH 305mm mortar (Skoda?) by Peter Mullin 11) CDl Shading on the Spad and Nieuport 28 by "Diego Fernetti" 12) Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics by "Pedro N. Soares" 13) Re: Emhar A7V by pschwartzkopf 14) "wow factor" wasRE: Re: small contests by Crawford Neil 15) Re: Emhar A7V by "Diego Fernetti" 16) Re: Emhar A7V by tbittners@sprintmail.com 17) RE: Uggie to Southern California by Crawford Neil 18) How I spray acrylics and Future by tbittners@sprintmail.com 19) Re: "wow factor" wasRE: Re: small contests by Larry Marshall 20) Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics by Larry Marshall 21) Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics by Larry Marshall 22) 虚拟主机租用特惠！ by houshen ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 12:33:50 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Emhar A7V Message-ID: > > I suppose the new Emhar kit nixes any chances of selling my old Rare >Tanks > > vacuformed A7V if I want to let it go. > >I think so. You'd better send it as a gift to Diego who is our List >vacuform >archivist. >Cheers! >Grzegorz Mmmhh.... not needed. Please send in a report on molding quality and if it has complementary resin or metal parts or decals. I guess that a vacuform tank model will be specially liked for those who want to add interior detail to the model. Never heard about vacuform OT tanks before. Good start! Has this company something to do in relation to Rareplanes? D. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 08:39:44 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: small contests Message-ID: <200210070839.44839.larrym@sympatico.ca> > system. In practice, they'd be starting to wonder if the section was too > big at around 24 entries and I'd be astoished if they'd let any section get > to 30. Sometimes they'd split earlier - if we had say 16-18 "Civil > Vehicles, Trucks and Heavy Vehicles, Modified, Australian prototype" they'd These numbers ring true to me, which is why I question the lumping of all aircraft and all armor by our group. As I've said, we'll have somewhere around 100 models I'm sure (maybe a few less). The vast majority will be airplanes and armor of course so it's likely that we'll have 30 or more entries in each of these groups and it would seem reasonable to decide a split at some point. Maybe just jets vs piston-power or something similar. German vs the rest? :-) > For th every little that it's worth, the hardest things I've had to do as > show committee president has been trying to defend decisions made by the > judging team *to make exceptions* which were intended to sooth the feathers > of some goose who'd not read the rules or thought it didn't mean him. No > fun, and self defeating because then everyone else has a gripe. As I said Yep, that's been my experience as well. Changing things for one person only makes the rest unhappy. > in another post - a CJ essential quality == cojones. A strong sense of > what's just or unjust will also be of assistance! Stubborness helps too :-) I concluded that rules debates were something that should take place before the event and rules changes should only take place after the event...for next time. The couple times I've deviated from this (or seen other organizers deviate from it) there have been lots of ill feelings. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 08:49:48 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Future uses, was: Future and Vallejo acrylics Message-ID: <200210070849.48404.larrym@sympatico.ca> > Okay, I am not familiar with the advanced uses of future. I just use it to > spray between paint coats and after decal application, followed by > dullcoat. Do you thin Future when you spray it for these uses? > 1. Does the future work as a thinning agent for the airbrush or > do you still have to cut the future/acrylic mix? If so, can I still use > alcohol to thin or does it react badly with the future? Future is thinner than most of the paints I spray so the short answer is yes. But it may not get your paint thin enough so adding alcohol is a good thing. I've used alcohol, water, and Model Master thinner (when spraying their acrylics) without any reaction from Future. > 2. Who wins when mixing; gloss future or flat paint? I'm The guy behind the airbrush :-) Seriously, you are correct that the battle comes down to proportions. I'm often mixing 20-30% Future with mine and so I don't feel a gloss coat is necessary prior to decal application (haven't experienced any silvering) but your experience may be different. > 3. Has anyone tried future with Tamiya (my favorite) or > Gunze-Sangyo acrylics? I think most use it with PollyScale (Stuart's I have not. I've done this with MisterKit, Model Master, and Vallejo acrylics. > I have clogged up my airbrush many times in the past through > experimentation, so thought I would try to avoid that again by asking. I don't know what airbrush you use but I wonder if a good portion of our problems with acrylics aren't based on the fact that we use airbrushes designed to spray enamels. I own several and nozzles are clearly designed in similar fashion between brands. I started spraying acrylics through Aztec 'normal' nozzles and the nose would plug up and become covered with acrylic shortly after I started spraying. Yuck!!! But I got an 'acrylic' nozzle of exactly the same bore and it works beautifully. The only difference between the two nozzles, except for the color is that the arcylic nozzle doesn't have the venturi wings around the needle hole. Do they make a different acrylic nozzle for a Paasche that's anything besides a change in bore diameter? -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:49:15 +0100 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B30222CF3C@TUFAO> Larry, > There is no doubt about it; acrylics don't have as hard a > finish as enamels. > I have found, however, that if you mix a lot of Future into > them, they become > quite hard. I'll be coating the entire valejjo painted surfaces with a brushed on coat of future, so I guess this will help. Haven't seen the foaming you > describe but I think this implies that the mixture is too > thick and so you're > getting some blow-back into the cup. That might be it. My future is old (nice oxymoron...) and on account of that I dropped in a few drops of water into the cup, still you might be right. Thanks for the insights Regards P. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:55:48 +0100 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B30222CF44@TUFAO> Michael, > > You simply shouldn't be eating those Colonel Sanders's > products while you > spray that stuff, though it's fairly non-toxic (the paint, I > mean, not the > fried birdie). Don't know about Colonel Sanders, but you would never get me eating KFC.... Problem is that we've been going through awfully humid weather, and I keep sewting like an old hog (well, not that old...) I like to spray several thin > coats, blasting > them with a hair dryer after each coat. In my house, the > hairdryer is in > the basement, next to the air compressor. I usually spray clen air with airbrush to achieve the same effect. I had a bad experience with the air blower once (the air was too hot and I got a huge bend on a straight part...) > > Sounds nasty! Did the colour cup start spinning and make > those vicious > "back of throat noises"? I put this down to a poltergeist - > you need to > contact the appropriate authorities; try your local priest. ;-) > > >Maybe it's just me, and I've never liked acrylics. I'll > stick to >enamel... > > Enamel cleans as it sprays through the brush absolutely - acrylics do > the opposite, absolutely again. AND I HATE TO CLEAN THE AIRBRUSH!!!!!! Enamel is much easier to clean with celulose thinners than acrylics, that seem to stick forever, where you don't want them. > This is why the T&C is > stored in the > attic and the Paasche H is in the basement with the > comperessor and the hair > dryer. Well, you know my views on this :-) Regards P. > > Michael > > _________________________________________________________________ > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:57:43 +0100 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B30222CF4C@TUFAO> Most soaps > nowadays contain > various creams or oils, in order to care skin. Your wife will > know, what I > mean. > G. > Hey Gregorio, I do use soap to, no need to go and ask Francisca. But then again I've been wondering why do people stand away from me when I'm in a group.... ;-) P. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 13:05:27 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Photo of "my" Camel Message-ID: Michael! >Man! I never knew half of the stuff that appears on this list, although >this does sound a bit like somthing I read in one of Barbara Tuchman's >books. Indeed. But I took the notes from Barbara Bach's latest book: "How I starred the Dukes of Hazard tv show and lived to tell it afterwards" in the chapter CXVII "My stockings have a run", page 1065. Pretty scary read. D. _________________________________________________________________ Join the world抯 largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 09:12:46 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics Message-ID: <200210070912.46697.larrym@sympatico.ca> > I usually spray clen air with airbrush to achieve the same effect. I had a > bad experience with the air blower once (the air was too hot and I got a > huge bend on a straight part...) I use a small travel hair dryer and it doesn't get very hot on its lower setting. > absolutely again. AND I HATE TO CLEAN THE AIRBRUSH!!!!!! Enamel is much > easier to clean with celulose thinners than acrylics, that seem to stick > forever, where you don't want them. I sure wish I could see this as I prefer spraying enamels to acrylics of any kind. But what I see is that I'm going to have to spray a couple paint cups of whatever solvent through the brush to clean it. If that's water/alcohol, there's no smell. If it's an enamel, the stuff stinks to high heaven, I've got to worry about where it's being sprayed, etc. One thing that does make my acrylic spray cleanup easier is that I use an Aztec brush to do it. My Badger and Paasche brushes are more trouble when it comes to acrylics as you suggest. WIth the Aztec brush, however, I spray a couple paint cups of water through the brush and since the entire nozzle/needle assemble is a single small unit, I can simply unscrew it, I use an old toothbrush to clean the bit of paint on the end of the nozzle and then the whole thing goes into a bottle of solvent, where it resides until the next time I use it. Most important is that my wife isn't complaining about the smell :-) I may be mistaken but my 'belief' is that when I spray acrylics I end up with a thicker paint coat than when I spray with enamels. Even more so than the 'good old days' when I could spray Floquil, which seemed to cover with extremely light coats. Opinions on this? > Well, you know my views on this :-) Care to share again? -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 13:15:33 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Macchi M.9 Message-ID: Alberto wrote: >- engine covering and metal parts of hull: light grey (gloss when new). I wonder if they would have been a sort of coated aluminium, as they show lighter scuffs when the aircraft was well worn. There was any similar practice in varnishing raw aluminium parts? >As you can see, it was virtually idientical to the one of the Macchi M.5. I suppose that M.7s as well. I have this lovely vacufiorm at home.... >Hope this can be of some interest. To me it is! Thanks >My thanks to Diego Fernetti for bringing my attention to Eric's request: it >is VERY difficult for me to keep up with the List's posting these days... Sorry to hear that, but me relaying this question had a pure egoistical interest about finishing my own Macchi models. Would Alegi write more datafiles on these neat airplanes? D. BTW, I'm off office duty today, because today is St. Mary of the Rosary day and therefore our city patron's day. Of course, I couldn't help but fumbling on a borrowed keyboard to know about the list latest posts. This is addictive, you know. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 08:08:40 -0500 From: Peter Mullin To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: AH 305mm mortar (Skoda?) Message-ID: <3DA035D8.3040806@biocomp.unl.edu> Grzez: Might this be it? http://intranet.qe.dorset.sch.uk/historyweb/foto/ah159b.jpg Or this one ("Slim Emma")? http://intranet.qe.dorset.sch.uk/historyweb/foto/sb201a.jpg There's also a small drawing at: http://www.bmlv.gv.at/organisation/beitraege/as/org_s_3_as_english_history.shtml More information on the bigger guns at: http://intranet.qe.dorset.sch.uk/historyweb/pharc005.htm -- Peter Mullin Department of Plant Pathology University of Nebraska-Lincoln 406 Plant Sciences Hall Lincoln, NE 68583-0722 (402) 472-5770 FAX: (402) 472-2853 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 13:19:57 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: CDl Shading on the Spad and Nieuport 28 Message-ID: Well I took a different approach in CDL wing tape coloring on my Spad (still have to complete that step on the nieuport). I've seen in some pictures that given the opaque paint job of the upper surfaces and the light reflecting from the gloss painted lower wings and the grond, there appears that the lower surface wing tapes are *lighter* than te surrounding fabric of the wing, so I put lighter decal tapes to a basic CDL painted wing. Looks OK to me when compared to pictures. Of course in 100% CDL wings as the Taube, I'd put darker tapes than the surrounding fabric on the underside. D. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 14:20:44 +0100 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B30222CF78@TUFAO> > > One thing that does make my acrylic spray cleanup easier is > that I use an > Aztec brush to do it. My Badger and Paasche brushes are more > trouble when it > comes to acrylics as you suggest. I normally use a Badger single action, internal mix (can't reember what model). And it's a pig to clean. I have to disassemble completely it everytime i finish a session and there's lots of parts to clean. I've heard aztek airbrushes are much easier to clean, but I've never tried one. Most important is that my wife isn't > complaining about > the smell :-) I spray by the garage door, with the door opened, so no problem with the smell for me (but I always wear a respirator with a decent filter, of course) > > I may be mistaken but my 'belief' is that when I spray > acrylics I end up with > a thicker paint coat than when I spray with enamels. Thicker but more fragile, YES. > > > Well, you know my views on this :-) > Care to share again? > -- Michael and I were discussing airbrush cleaning the other day and I was telling him how I absolutely hate doing it. Sometimes just to think that I'll have to clean the airbrush after the session puts me away from doing it.... Maybe I should save to get me an Aztek.... > Regards Pedro > Cheers --- Larry > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 07:14:26 -0500 From: pschwartzkopf To: Subject: Re: Emhar A7V Message-ID: <200210071214.g97CEQ131441@twcnebraska.com> --- "Diego Fernetti" wrote: > Mmmhh.... not needed. Please send in a report on molding quality and if it > has complementary resin or metal parts or decals. I guess that a vacuform > tank model will be specially liked for those who want to add interior detail > to the model. No extras at all. Just a vacuform superstructure and treads(!). Needs gun barrels. Details on the exterior don't appear to be too bad for a vac, but it can't compete with injection molding, of course. But for the time period it was produced, it was more than adequate. > Never heard about vacuform OT tanks before. Good start! Has this company > something to do in relation to Rareplanes? > D. The same company. Although I'm not familar with their subject line, they produced several other vehicles. Probably will be worth more as a collectable rather than a builder. 30 years ago, Rareplanes/tanks was the only way you could get hold of a kit of that "special" subject you wanted. I still have my ot Bell Airacuda that I bought back in the mid-seventies. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 15:33:18 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: "wow factor" wasRE: Re: small contests Message-ID: Michael: > Definitely agree with you here. If the judges have their > heads screwed on, > they'll judge build competency - alignment, paint job, decals > (transfers) > etc. rather than the "wow factor" form some huge thing that > is not put > together as well. IPMS scoring is not like Olympic diving: > you don't get > paoints for degree of difficulty. >> Twenty years ago I'd have agreed with you, in the early days of contests it was a problem that big models won, and small plain models got ignored. Now I wonder if the pendulum hasn't swung too much in the other direction, If a model gets a "wow" then it's a good model, I spent 2 hours at my last contest, as a judge, looking for mistakes on models (following the rules), the result was that a completely boring FW190 won. Question is if it really was a good model? Not in my opinion, because it was similar to the couple of dozen models, that I've seen at these contest for the past 10 years. Also because I know that most of the good bits come from various photo-etched and resin sets. But there is no space in the rules for anything untangible, so it won because technically it was best. To me the whole thing was pointless. If modelling is an art, then choice of subject should be part of the competition, it no longer is, neither is degree of difficulty or historic accuracy. What we are judging nowadays is basic modelling skills and painting. In my opinion "basic modelling skills" is useless for deciding which is the best model, at the top level, it's OK for winnowing out, some of the worst models on the table can be dismissed, most good models have a few mistakes, not many, but they can be found, so what!? Quite honestly I don't give a damn if there is a spot of silvering, or a seam that shows at a certain angle It doesn't make a good model bad, it's just nitpicking. Painting is also a bit doubtful, everyone thinks they know how a good bit of Luftwaffe weathering should look, but how many know how a golden age or WW1 model should be weathered? How about alu-finish, I like foil, some don't. Painting is nearly as subjective and impossible to judge as all the other criteria, I don't mean basic stuff like orange-peel and brush marks, most of the models I see at competitions don't have that sort of problem. So here I am back on my soap-box, if you want my opinion Larry, make a sensible division into classes, by scale if at all possible, but let the judges do their jobs without rules and criteria. It won't work better (or worse), but saves the hell of a lot of time, makes sure the judges enjoy themselves, and pleases the vendors, because everyone gets time to spend more money. Please don't get mad at me for writing the above, I've been an organizer so I know how much work that involves, and I really agree that if you enter a competition you abide by the rules. And I like IPMS, it's just that I think we've lost focus on what really constitutes a good model. A perfect model is good, but one that makes you say "wow" is better! /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 13:37:45 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Emhar A7V Message-ID: Thanks Paul! I'lll save this for the update... whenver that comes! :-) D. >From: pschwartzkopf >No extras at all. Just a vacuform superstructure and treads(!). Needs gun >barrels. Details on the exterior don't appear to be too bad for a vac, but >it >can't compete with injection molding, of course. But for the time period >it was >produced, it was more than adequate. > > > Never heard about vacuform OT tanks before. Good start! Has this company > > something to do in relation to Rareplanes? > > D. > >The same company. Although I'm not familar with their subject line, they >produced several other vehicles. Probably will be worth more as a >collectable >rather than a builder. 30 years ago, Rareplanes/tanks was the only way you >could get hold of a kit of that "special" subject you wanted. I still have >my >ot Bell Airacuda that I bought back in the mid-seventies. _________________________________________________________________ Join the world抯 largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 09:06:10 -0500 (CDT) From: tbittners@sprintmail.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Emhar A7V Message-ID: <200210071406.g97E6AE83352@king1.kingsnake.com> Paul, I'm sending this via the list for a reason. Which A7V does the vac make? Is it one of the versions that the Emhar does *not* build in to? What I'm thinking is keeping the vacs, then using bits from the Emhar kit to create a different version. Take the one link I provided yesterday - about the differences in the types - and go from there. If you're not willing to do this, send the vacs to me and I will. ;-) Matt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 16:16:24 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Uggie to Southern California Message-ID: Uggie: > > The Balilla will be # 116 in the collection and the > collection will > be 58 each for each side. Well done Uggie, that is very admirable, I have that ambition too, but have failed dismally, the poor German Air Force is completely outnumbered on my shelves. OTOH the one I have. is a Fokker DVII so most of the opposition would be easy meat. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 09:21:26 -0500 (CDT) From: tbittners@sprintmail.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: How I spray acrylics and Future Message-ID: <200210071421.g97ELQf84451@king1.kingsnake.com> Okay, this may be a bit egotistical, but I wanted to share how I do acrylics, and how I use Future. Lately I have been thinning acrylics with Future. My latest attempt - an off topic tank - I used Model Master Acryl thinned with Future. I added four or five drops of Future into the paint cup. I don't have a control on the front of my compressor, so I'm always spraying about 25psi (a control is something I do want to obtain, though). I also sometimes add a drop or two (depending on the thickness of the paint) of windshield washer fluid (WWF) into the mix as well. I find this helps with how the acrylics spray. I had a few flaws to fix on the tank after I sprayed the first coat, and the Future I found helped with feathering out whatever paint I sanded. When I spray a Future overcoat, I usually spray it straight from the bottle, with a drop or two of WWF added. Note that the WWF I use is blue, but that blue does *not* show through in the spraying. I have sprayed an all-white off topic model thinning only with WWF, and it's still completely white. :-) Acrylics I have used include MM Acryl, Polly Scale, the old Polly S and MisterKit. I don't like MM, but the color they had for the tank was the only one I could find. I prefer Polly Scale and MisterKit. Before I start working on a model, I wash everything on the sprue, gate, block, etc. This first wash is with ordinary dish washing soap. Some kits - like the old ICM ones (I-152, etc.) require two or three washes to get all of the mold release agent off. Once I'm ready to spray the model, I wash it before hand using the Polly S/Scale "Plastic Prep". In addition, as I'm spraying I handle the model only with one hand, that hand being "wrapped" in a surgical-type, rubber glove. I hope this helps someone. I've been using acrylics since I seriously got back into the hobby, and I won't use anything else. (Well, almost. I do want to try Alclad...) Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 10:43:58 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: "wow factor" wasRE: Re: small contests Message-ID: <200210071043.58692.larrym@sympatico.ca> > If modelling is an art, then choice of subject should be part of the > competition, it no longer is, neither is degree of difficulty or historic > accuracy. I agree completely, Neil. If you'll recall, I was surprised to find that IPMS rules dont judge accuracy and that there's no advantage to doing difficult models according to the rules. I was told that it's impossible to do it any other way. I'm not in a position to say. > So here I am back on my soap-box, if you want my opinion Larry, make a > sensible division into classes, by scale if at all possible, but let the > judges do their jobs without rules and criteria. It won't work better (or I'm sure our judges will judge as fairly as they can but it will be tough with a lot of models in each category. > themselves, and pleases the vendors, because everyone gets time to spend > more money. I don't believe there will be any vendors. > Please don't get mad at me for writing the above, I've been an organizer so Not I. > competition you abide by the rules. And I like IPMS, it's just that I think > we've lost focus on what really constitutes a good model. A perfect model > is good, but one that makes you say "wow" is better! Very well put. Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 11:36:50 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics Message-ID: <200210071136.50907.larrym@sympatico.ca> > I normally use a Badger single action, internal mix (can't reember what > model). And it's a pig to clean. I have to disassemble completely it Probably a 200. I think it's safe to say that Badger airbrushes are harder to clean than any others but they do work well. > everytime i finish a session and there's lots of parts to clean. I've heard > aztek airbrushes are much easier to clean, but I've never tried one. MUCH easier. I like my Paasche brush as well but I'm too lazy to clean it :-) The Aztec brushes have a history in graphics arts and it's pretty obvious that the notion of quick-change of the nozzles was a top priority. While I don't change much, I really like being able to pull it out and store the nozzle in solvent. The best part is that if things do get clogged for some reason, you can replace a nozzle for $10 and the rest is guaranteed for life. This is sounding like a sales pitch, though so I'll stop :-) > I spray by the garage door, with the door opened, so no problem with the > smell for me (but I always wear a respirator with a decent filter, of > course) If that were the case for me I'd probably be using enamels. On the other hand, as Michael says, the acrylics dry so quickly that this becomes a distinct advantage. Adding Future somewhat negates it but the paints still dry faster than enamels. > telling him how I absolutely hate doing it. Sometimes just to think that > I'll have to clean the airbrush after the session puts me away from doing > it.... I stopped using my Badger brushes when I got a Paasche, mostly because of the cleanup. I bought the Aztec for the same reason. With the later I pull the cup, clean it, stick it back on the brush and shoot a couple paint-cups of water through the brush. I then unscrew the nozzle, drop it into its storage vial and I shake a bit. I then grab it and go over the nose of it with a toothbrush, replacing it in the vial after a few quick strokes. The whole process takes a minute. > Maybe I should save to get me an Aztek.... Being a major stockholder in Testors, I would appreciate....oh no...that was just a dream. I have no ties to Testors. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 11:40:01 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Future and Vallejo acrylics Message-ID: <200210071140.01680.larrym@sympatico.ca> > I normally use a Badger single action, internal mix (can't reember what > model). And it's a pig to clean. I have to disassemble completely it Probably a 200. I think it's safe to say that Badger airbrushes are harder to clean than any others but they do work well. > everytime i finish a session and there's lots of parts to clean. I've heard > aztek airbrushes are much easier to clean, but I've never tried one. MUCH easier. I like my Paasche brush as well but I'm too lazy to clean it :-) The Aztec brushes have a history in graphics arts and it's pretty obvious that the notion of quick-change of the nozzles was a top priority. While I don't change much, I really like being able to pull it out and store the nozzle in solvent. The best part is that if things do get clogged for some reason, you can replace a nozzle for $10 and the rest is guaranteed for life. This is sounding like a sales pitch, though so I'll stop :-) > I spray by the garage door, with the door opened, so no problem with the > smell for me (but I always wear a respirator with a decent filter, of > course) If that were the case for me I'd probably be using enamels. On the other hand, as Michael says, the acrylics dry so quickly that this becomes a distinct advantage. Adding Future somewhat negates it but the paints still dry faster than enamels. > telling him how I absolutely hate doing it. Sometimes just to think that > I'll have to clean the airbrush after the session puts me away from doing > it.... I stopped using my Badger brushes when I got a Paasche, mostly because of the cleanup. I bought the Aztec for the same reason. With the later I pull the cup, clean it, stick it back on the brush and shoot a couple paint-cups of water through the brush. I then unscrew the nozzle, drop it into its storage vial and I shake a bit. I then grab it and go over the nose of it with a toothbrush, replacing it in the vial after a few quick strokes. The whole process takes a minute. > Maybe I should save to get me an Aztek.... Being a major stockholder in Testors, I would appreciate....oh no...that was just a dream. I have no ties to Testors. -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------------------------------- -- Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 09:43:30 -0700 (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) From: houshen To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: 虚拟主机租用特惠！ Message-ID: <3DA1699B0001E1F3@mta04.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) 亲爱的新老客户： 您好，我公司优惠产品已进入最后倒数30天，30天后价格将上调，欲购从速： 1、200M（纯HTML空间）+ 送一国际域名，仅售150元/年 2、60M空间+60M企业邮局 + 支持ASP，CGI + 送一国际域名，仅售236元/年 3、100MP空间+100M企业邮局 + 支持ASP，CGI，ACCESS + 送一国际域名，仅售336元/年 更多空间组合，更多选择--请点击我们的网站 http://www.88dns.com/了解详情. 我公司是一家专门致力于高新网络技术的公司，有着多年的经验，在做虚拟主机方面我们 有着绝对的优势： ①主机100M的宽带接入(网通宽带在厦门的终端接入是由我司代理的)； ②拥有一批高级的网络管理人员，主机由我们自己严格管理； ③对所有的网站内容我们都进行备份，并进行实时监控保证了其稳定性； 另您如须我们帮您做网页或有意做我们的代理请联系E-mail:zwb@logindns.com 或QQ：40327558 谢谢!　　 　　　　祝您马年吉祥、好运天天有、幸运常伴随!!! 　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　盈通远航科技 --------------------------------------------------------------- 沸点群发邮件,来自软件工程专家网(http://www.21cmm.com) 进CMM网校(http://www.21cmm.com)，成项目管理专家 ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4687 **********************