WWI Digest 4679 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: unseemly seams by "Pedro N. Soares" 2) Re: unseemly seams by "NEIL EDDY" 3) Re: Eastern European Dealers by "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" 4) Re: Breguet Br.14b2 Question by Larry Marshall 5) Re: unseemly seams by Nigel Cheffers-Heard 6) Re: Aerodrome was: Re: re: dirty dealings by "Bob Pearson" 7) New models and photos by Allan Wright 8) Re: Epoxy Filler by Nigel Cheffers-Heard 9) Re: Brush Painting Basics by "Diego Fernetti" 10) Re: New models and photos by "Dave Burke" 11) brush painting basics, part deux by "Diego Fernetti" 12) Re: New models and photos by Allan Wright 13) Liberty Engine by Allan Wright 14) Re: New models and photos by Larry Marshall 15) Re: Breguet Br.14b2 Question by "Diego Fernetti" 16) Re: Breguet Br.14b2 Question by Larry Marshall 17) couple picture requests by jeff_roby 18) =?GB2312?B?uPjE+rXE0ru34tDF?= by "zcxv" 19) FW: fokker by Shane Weier 20) A very long over due update to the AFV BBQ site by "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" 21) Re: couple picture requests by "Mike Muth" 22) Re: FW: fokker by "Lee M." 23) Re: Finished the CSM Lohner B.II by "ibs4421" 24) Re: Finished the CSM Lohner B.II by "ibs4421" 25) Re: brush painting basics, part deux by "ibs4421" 26) Re: Finished the CSM Lohner B.II by Larry Marshall 27) Re: Aerodrome was: Re: re: dirty dealings by KarrArt@aol.com 28) Re: Your question about the Italian front by "Alberto Casirati" 29) by =?GB2312?B?zfjC582o0MXXqNOq?= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 14:19:15 +0100 From: "Pedro N. Soares" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: unseemly seams Message-ID: <12AEB3D996DDD311B98A00508B6D75B3021ED380@TUFAO> > > I'm not certain to which "ot" (off topic?) Pedro is > referring, Michael, as a mater of fact I started laying paint on my GIII yesterday, so I'm back on track now ;-) The ot is the special hobby Amelia Earharts's Lockheed Electra, that I've been putting together while fighting the need to go over the paint job on the Gotha. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 23:31:35 +1000 From: "NEIL EDDY" To: Subject: Re: unseemly seams Message-ID: <006001c26ae1$326bb2e0$668686cb@default> G'day, G'day... For small seam jobs that need only a little work, I use Gunze Mr Surfacer 500. This sands very easily, and I find masking either side of the seam cuts down on the mess factor and the amount of sanding you have to do (and the damage factor too). I tend to do this with all my puttying jobs if possible. For larger seams, I use Tamiya putty but I want to try Milliput to see how I like it. All the Best Neil E (Terra Australis) ----- Original Message ----- From: "SSH" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 3:48 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: unseemly seams > Mostly normal, sometimes circular, motion. > regards > Sanjeev > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 08:32:07 -0500 From: "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" To: "'WWI Modeling Digest'" Subject: Re: Eastern European Dealers Message-ID: <15888960D28CD211AD1900105A24907803EC97DD@ANO-EXS02> Joining in late, a consequence of being in Digest mode :( Tom Morgan wrote: >Is there any consensus as to what >dealers and/or manufacturers are best, or rather recommended, for WW I 1:48 >kits and accessories? Bitter would say there are *no* good 1/48 kits. ;) Ken Zelnick Ducking and running ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 09:35:12 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Breguet Br.14b2 Question Message-ID: <200210030935.12502.larrym@sympatico.ca> > update. Still have to send that to Allan, but time it's not enough for me! I know the problem well :-) > I saved the comments about the Classic Plane vac for inclusion as well, > sure that will apear in the new version. Again...these efforts are very much appreciated. Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 15:02:55 +0100 From: Nigel Cheffers-Heard To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: unseemly seams Message-ID: Sorry if this is a repeat, but I replied earlier and it seems to have disappeared into the ether. Mike mentioned about trying to remove the sanding marks. My personal feeling is that if your are getting sanding marks, then your abrasive is too coarse. I work all along with Wet or Dry, and always work wet. This keeps the dust down, and stops the removed material clogging the paper. Depending on how much I have to remove, I start with 200 or 240 grade to remove the bulk of the material, then work down to 360 to get closer to the finished profile, and finish with 600. This leaves no sanding marks at all. If you gently run your finger over the filled join, at any point it will tell you how smooth it is, and how smooth your profile is. My Mum always told me that if you suffered from unseemly seams, you should buy more expensive stockings.... :) N -- Nigel Cheffers-Heard photography + design tel: +44 (0)1392 87 58 57 fax: +44 (0)1392 87 74 97 mobile: 0771 261 4514 nigelch@cheffers.co.uk www.cheffers.co.uk Laburnums, Bridge Hill Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ, UK ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 08:46:22 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Aerodrome was: Re: re: dirty dealings Message-ID: <103366037101@smtp-1.vancouver.ipapp.com> The Showbirds were originally shown as prints at the OTF seminar in Pensacola. Later I offered them to Ray Rimell and he accepted them for publication. When I did them I thought I was the first to do so (except for the old PROFILE publication), however my Polish Secret Santa last year sent me his guru's book (I hate to say I forgot the author's name) which also had them in it - including a light blue Eastah Aigg. . by now the profiles were in WS's care The funny thing is, I never saw Drew's article until almost a year AFTER I did the profiles. I did a few of them in 1999/2000, then contacted Greg and he sent me the photos for more .. and then later on also sent information on their wartime SPADs and finally a copy of the original article. At least it is easy enough to go back and change them when the mood strikes. But, yes, it would have been nice to have known about the new interpretations As for the blue, It is a bit darker than intended due to the differences in CMYK and RGB colours. .. The idea there was also the 'usual' differences in film and fading etc etc .. but I guess I still did it too dark. . which is why I try and have various folks vet the images as they are done. Bob ---------- >From: Crawford Neil > > Saw that Bob, that was a very interesting letter, wish he'd > wrote it earlier, so you could have got the profiles right. > That's life. I was a bit surprised that you'ld done > easter egg (can't write it the right way) > in dark blue, but I thought you knew something we didn't. > As to the orange, well that was a surprise, but a nice one, > the flashier the better! Still great to get some new input on this. > /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 12:00:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Allan Wright To: wwi Subject: New models and photos Message-ID: <200210031600.MAA66234@mustang.sr.unh.edu> More web content for your enjoyment. - Knut Erik Hagen sends in more photos, this time of the DH9 - Added a new modeler, Greg Balzer (nice 1/48 Dr-I) Enjoy, Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 17:13:42 +0100 From: Nigel Cheffers-Heard To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Epoxy Filler Message-ID: Here in the UK I see that my local Halfords sells an aluminium impregnated 2-part epoxy. Is this the same, similar, or what? Any ideas? N -- Nigel Cheffers-Heard photography + design tel: +44 (0)1392 87 58 57 fax: +44 (0)1392 87 74 97 mobile: 0771 261 4514 nigelch@cheffers.co.uk www.cheffers.co.uk Laburnums, Bridge Hill Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ, UK ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 13:35:42 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: "ww1 list" Subject: Re: Brush Painting Basics Message-ID: <005901c26afa$ea4d54e0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Neil! (and to Tom Gourdie and John Ernst as well) > One problem with brush > painting is that > it tends to obscure small details, but I'm sure there are > techniques to > minimise that too. Well I'll try to explain the Wet Edge method as I understood from the wise words from Master Schmitt. The goal in model painting is, as other things in scale, to get not only a colour and brightness faithful to the original, but also to get a paint coat as near as possible to scale thickness. I know: That's impossible. But the thninner the paint coat, the less details are hidden by the paint. Model enamels are finely grained pigment in a carrier. The carrier -must be some sort of varnish, correct me if I'm wrong- has some consistency to "bond" the colour particles togheter in an homogeneous way. As the carrier tends to dry and become more thicker with evaporation, the brushstroke marks keep permanent because the enamel dries before evening out. This is solved by adding a lighter carrier, or solvent. If you add solvent to paint, there is less particles per volume, and it becomes more transparent on the paint coat. The mix of the parts depends largely on experience and taste of the painter, so I won't get into that now. For Mo-Lak paints, I'd use approx. 1/3 of thinner for each dollop of enamel. Sometimes less, sometimes more. Try on a piece of scrap plastic before applying to the model! As the paint coat should be as thin as possible, it's important to paint on a good surface, free of scratches or voids. (I always found several just as I start painting!). No matter which is your fav brush size, it's important that the brush is a GOOD brush, made of sable hair. I know that's expensive, but well cared it will last for years. It's not because it's fancy, or artsy, but because natural hair brushes are more elastic and spread paint more evenly. I'll continue on another message. D. It all grinds down to "use the method > you're good at", > or for some "use the method you're not good at, so as to learn it", > in other words Dicta-Ira! > /Neil C (N) > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 12:19:03 -0500 From: "Dave Burke" To: Subject: Re: New models and photos Message-ID: <001b01c26b00$f94adc00$f5e379a5@s0024008072> > More web content for your enjoyment. > > - Knut Erik Hagen sends in more photos, this time of the DH9 Where - on the Gallery? Didn't see 'em > - Added a new modeler, Greg Balzer (nice 1/48 Dr-I) You said it! Way to go Greg - see, doesn't it make all of the frustration worth it? :-) DB ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 14:16:13 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: "ww1 list" Subject: brush painting basics, part deux Message-ID: <006e01c26b00$934a7e60$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Part 2 A good quality brush is pointed, and if it's well cared and cleaned, it will keep its point. Dip just the tip of the brush in the paint cup or palette, trying to avoid by all possible means that the paint would reach the "base" of the bristles. That's very hard to clean and if the paint dry there, it will splay the brush end making it useless. If the paint oozes up the bristles, that's a sign you thinned the paint too much. Clean up the brush in thinner immediatly and then rinse with soap and tap water. Leave to dry thoroughly before any new use. I sometimes dip the end in diluted hair conditioner and it seems to benefit the shape of the brush again. OK, no to the model. Paint a little at the time, without puddling the surface but generously. If the paint is well thinned and strained, you can start spreading the paint from the wet area always starting your brush. Thin, wet paint won't leave marks, as it will even out before setting. When the brush needs to be loaded again, start painting from a wet edge of your previous painted area, and keep "stabbing" each new brushtroke on a painted area and covering the rest. Don't push the bristles again the model, paint one area at the time. From time to time, you may need to add a little thinner to the paintc up as it will dry a little and will be less fluid. Using thin paint, it will reach the crannies and details and try to keep in the recesses because of superficial tension. Wipe the excess out of there, but try not to keep brushing on areas that are drying. If the colour don't cover too well, it doesn't matter, on the next thin coat it will. HTH D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 13:27:43 -0400 (EDT) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: New models and photos Message-ID: <200210031727.NAA58180@mustang.sr.unh.edu> > > - Knut Erik Hagen sends in more photos, this time of the DH9 > Where - on the Gallery? Didn't see 'em On the photos page - links to new material are always on the news page. > > > - Added a new modeler, Greg Balzer (nice 1/48 Dr-I) > > You said it! Way to go Greg - see, doesn't it make all of the frustration > worth it? :-) > > DB > > =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 13:29:55 -0400 (EDT) From: Allan Wright To: wwi Subject: Liberty Engine Message-ID: <200210031729.NAA62425@mustang.sr.unh.edu> I've had a request for some photos of a liberty engine for someone's projects. If anyone has any decent photos they can scan it would be appreciated. Thanks, Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 13:29:54 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: New models and photos Message-ID: <200210031329.54595.larrym@sympatico.ca> > - Knut Erik Hagen sends in more photos, this time of the DH9 > - Added a new modeler, Greg Balzer (nice 1/48 Dr-I) I often joke by saying "Just paint it red" but Greg, you may have taken that remark out of my vocabulary. That's the nicest 425/17 I've ever seen. Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 14:39:49 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: Breguet Br.14b2 Question Message-ID: <00dc01c26b03$df371c40$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> > Again...these efforts are very much appreciated. Je suis heureux de vous plaisir, monsieur Laurent Le Mar閏hal! D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 13:52:21 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Breguet Br.14b2 Question Message-ID: <200210031352.21799.larrym@sympatico.ca> > monsieur Laurent Le Mar閏hal! Oh...so this is how you translate "Hey you" into French Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 17:51:23 -0400 From: jeff_roby To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: couple picture requests Message-ID: Hi all. Just recently finished an Albatros DVa, and am looking for a couple small touches: 1. Somewhere on the internet I saw a nice big picture of the Albatros logo -- an albatross wearing a German helmet. Can't for the life of me remember where, whether it was on one of our pages or elsewhere. Anyone know? 2. The logo that goes on Albatros propellors. I've found several pictures of them, but none good enough to blow up and use on my own propellor. Any clues would be greatly appreciated. Jeff Roby Jersey City (201) 656-3267 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 06:00:14 +0800 From: "zcxv" To: wwi@mustang.sr.unh.edu Subject: =?GB2312?B?uPjE+rXE0ru34tDF?= Message-ID: <200210032202.SAA68331@mustang.sr.unh.edu> 您好: 如果这封信给您带来不便请您原谅! www.popsms.net 免费影视.铃声.图片下载站! 几百个在电视台;几百部高速在线收看的电影.几百部MTV歌曲;流行音乐!手机短信、手机图片、手机铃声、手机屏保、个性短语.短信新闻订阅、手机短信游戏. www.filmbbs.net 影视城! 最酷的电影,最清晰的电影,最经典的电影!FTP最新电影下载区;HTTP最新电影下载区;最新DVD电影下载区! www.5135.cn.st 我要上网! 影视下载.手机铃声.网上聊天.宽带网址.足球世界.减肥网站.女性天地.两性健康. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 08:12:30 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: FW: fokker Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7105958FAE@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Hi all, Just an ex listee passing a query on from someone on the internet. Maybe he need to know about the Fokker Group CD's, but I haven't got a clue what the URL might be Shane -----Original Message----- From: BASTARDIDENTRO [mailto:GRANRANGER@katamail.com] Sent: Thursday, 3 October 2002 7:06 PM To: xopowo@u.washington.edu Subject: fokker Hallo! I am an italian man I'm looking for some views or project about Fokker Dr1 and I want to buid up this model with wood. I ask if you have thisto send me? kind regards ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 08:26:34 +1000 From: "Ross & Wendy Moorhouse" To: Subject: A very long over due update to the AFV BBQ site Message-ID: <003201c26b2b$ee332450$1b4e2dcb@future> At long last I have been able to get the US Light Tank pics that Sanjeev Hirve took and Karen Rychlewski sent in up on the AFV BBQ site. Look on the BBQ Resources page for the link ... http://wwi-cookup.com/afv/index.html Cheers Ross ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 18:37:41 -0400 From: "Mike Muth" To: Subject: Re: couple picture requests Message-ID: <00a601c26b2d$7c7a85e0$a6d2bacc@ptdprolog.net> Jeff Both are readily available in decals. if that's all you need, contact ,me off list and I'll send you a set. Mike Muth ----- Original Message ----- From: jeff_roby To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 5:39 PM Subject: [WWI] couple picture requests > Hi all. Just recently finished an Albatros DVa, and am looking for a couple > small touches: > > 1. Somewhere on the internet I saw a nice big picture of the Albatros > logo -- an albatross wearing a German helmet. Can't for the life of me > remember where, whether it was on one of our pages or elsewhere. Anyone > know? > > 2. The logo that goes on Albatros propellors. I've found several pictures > of them, but none good enough to blow up and use on my own propellor. > > Any clues would be greatly appreciated. > > Jeff Roby > Jersey City > (201) 656-3267 > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 20:04:00 -0500 From: "Lee M." To: Subject: Re: FW: fokker Message-ID: <003301c26b41$ed20ef00$a34d39cc@mesystem> Try this friend. He also sells older books and seem to be fair in his dealing. He is located inm Connecticutt, USA so the price is U.S. Dollars. I got my Fokker CD's from him and they were reasonable from my point of view. Bob Repich E-mail Address(es): Icarus@icarusbooks.com He even sent a free copy to the club group I belong to.. He sent it with mine and I hand delivered it to the group office. I hear the Guy that is doing them is doing some other aircraft on to CDs now. By the way how are you doing now that summer is about to return to you guys. I know you have been terribly cold this past winter. I hear it dropped below 90 Fahrenheit/ 22C several times. Don't know how you could stand it. We are chilling down to about 17 some mornings now and I expect a bit less very soon. Lee M. New Braunfels, Tx ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shane Weier" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 5:14 PM Subject: [WWI] FW: fokker > Hi all, > > Just an ex listee passing a query on from someone on the internet. Maybe he > need to know about the Fokker Group CD's, but I haven't got a clue what the > URL might be > > Shane > > -----Original Message----- > From: BASTARDIDENTRO [mailto:GRANRANGER@katamail.com] > Sent: Thursday, 3 October 2002 7:06 PM > To: xopowo@u.washington.edu > Subject: fokker > > > Hallo! I am an italian man I'm looking for some views or project about > Fokker Dr1 and I want to buid up this model with wood. > I ask if you have thisto send me? > > kind regards > > > > ********************************************************************** > The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is > intended only for the use of the addressee(s). > If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or > copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to > forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the > MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. > > For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 > Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au > Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 > International ++61 7 38338042 > ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 19:57:39 -0500 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: Re: Finished the CSM Lohner B.II Message-ID: <003301c26b41$0a6172c0$e8e51442@dwfjv01> > Warren, I'm not a brush-painter as I feel that airbrush finishes are much > nicer. I agree Larry, but I can forsee a time in my modeling future when using an airbrush is going to seem like such a pain, and a brush would be so quick and convenient. In > short, brushpainting acrylics is difficult at best but adding Future really > improves things. So, adding future to any acryllic model paint, such as Misterkit, works in making it easier to brush? My first experience at trying to brush paint Misterkit on my Fokker F.1 was very much below acceptable. The fuselage turned out fine, but the wings are horrid. they will have to be stripped. Ages ago when I was young, bumb and full of . . .well anyway, I was a fairly decent brush painter. Had to be since my folks wouldn't let me spring the bucks for an airbrush. I even used some acryllics back then, and they seemed to behave much as my enamels did. This Misterkit didn't though, hoo boy, no! I like the stuff though, nice colors. Warren ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 19:58:45 -0500 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: Re: Finished the CSM Lohner B.II Message-ID: <003d01c26b41$31475580$e8e51442@dwfjv01> > I handbrushed tinted future over the wooden -handpainted- fuselage of my > Albatros D.II and it worked great, no brushmarks at all. Hola Amigo! What did you use to tint it? Warren ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 20:03:08 -0500 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: Re: brush painting basics, part deux Message-ID: <004c01c26b41$ce3018a0$e8e51442@dwfjv01> Dip just the tip of the brush in the paint cup or palette, > trying to avoid by all possible means that the paint would reach the "base" > of the bristles. That's very hard to clean and if the paint dry there, it > will splay the brush end making it useless. Here's a tip I picked up painting full-sized things like houses, and perhaps it is adaptable to modeling. I learned that if you take a strip of masking tape, and wrap it tightly around the bristles just below the ferrule, that paint is much less likely to "creep up" towards the base of the bristles. Perhaps you could cut a thin strip of tape for a brush used in modeling. when it is time to clean the brush, you just pull it off, carefully of course, and you have no paint near the base of the bristles. Warren ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 21:15:24 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Finished the CSM Lohner B.II Message-ID: <200210032115.24801.larrym@sympatico.ca> > I agree Larry, but I can forsee a time in my modeling future when using an > airbrush is going to seem like such a pain, and a brush would be so quick > and convenient. I probably don't see the situation properly but I'm just to darn lazy to brush-paint my models. I can set up and spray all he major parts of a model in far less time than i takes to apply several coats (with sanding between) with brush. > So, adding future to any acryllic model paint, such as Misterkit, works in > making it easier to brush? My first experience at trying to brush paint I don't want to give the impression that I'm some sort o expert on thi subject. But a few months ago I did some tests using Vallejo, Ceramcoat, MisterKit and ModelMaster Acryl paints. All I did was take a piece of plastic and I brushed 2" squares of each brand, with and withou Future. Clearly the Future improved all of them in terms of the degree to which they leveled out and in how well they stuck to the plastic (yea old masking tape test was done on all samples). > Misterkit on my Fokker F.1 was very much below acceptable. The fuselage > turned out fine, but the wings are horrid. they will have to be stripped. I'm sure I'll be branded as a heretic but it seems to me that if you're going to brush-paint, enamels or lacquers are the only way to go. Even with Future added, none of the acrylics leveled out or covered te way Floquil does. > .well anyway, I was a fairly decent brush painter. Had to be since my folks wouldn't let me spring the bucks for an airbrush. Airbrushes are cheap enough but the air supply isn't :-) > I even used some acryllics back then, and they seemed to behave much as my enamels did. This Misterkit didn't though, hoo boy, no! I like the stuff though, nice colors. In an airbrush, MisterKit seems t spray better than any of the others. Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 23:58:16 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Aerodrome was: Re: re: dirty dealings Message-ID: In a message dated 10/2/02 5:33:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sperry03@tampabay.rr.com writes: << This got me thinking. I'm really not making miniatures. I'm making illusions, 3D art in other words. Accuracy in shape, proportion, detail, color and markings are all important to the illusion, but are not ends in themselves. The finished model is. >> "Photorealistic sculpture". The historians supply the meat and bread and we make the sandwich. RK ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 07:27:06 +0200 From: "Alberto Casirati" To: "Steven Perry" Cc: "WW1 Modeling List" Subject: Re: Your question about the Italian front Message-ID: <001e01c26b67$4abe8a80$a5e422d4@s> Dear Steven, according to Grosz, Schiemer and Haddow ("Austro-Hungarian Army aircraft of WW"), the Lohner type Bs (B.I and B.II) were never flown on the Italian front, but, in very moderate quantities, on the less demanding Russian and Serbian fronts. They were withdrawn from front line units in August 1914 so, if they were to be flown against the Kingdom of Italy, they would have met aircraft like the Caudron G.3, the MF 1914, the Nieuport IV, the Macchi Parasol, the Voisin LA, the SAML Av. and the Bleriot XI-2. As for the red and white bands being used on training machines, some of the pictures at my disposal suggest that this was not ***always*** the case, as they were also painted on front line machines. Hope this can be of some interest. All the very best, Alberto Casirati ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Perry" To: "Alberto Casirati" Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 11:41 AM Subject: Re: Your question about the Italian front > Hi Alberto: > > Thanks for your response. I figured you've been a bit busy lately and > have missed seing posts from you on the list. > > I just finished a CSM Lohner B.II and was fishing for info on what it > might have met in the air over the Izonso front. It is such a basic > machine I was wondering what it might have met from the Itallians. Seems > from another response that they were taken out of active frontline > service sooner than the marking info in Eric's kit indicated. The Red & > white stripes were more likely training machine colors rather than > something flown over the battle front. > > I'd appreciate hearing anything you might know about the subject. The > model is built and this is mere curiosity, so no hurry or anything like > that. > > Regards > sp > > Alberto Casirati wrote: > > > Dear Steven, > > > > although my sprae time does not allow for an active presence on the List > > these days, I read your message about the Italian front. I was not in the > > position to reply, but I could do it now: is this still convenient for you ? > > If so, could you plase tell me what you precisely need ? > > > > All the very best, > > > > > > Alberto Casirati > > > > Honorary Keeper - Aviation Section > > Bergamo Museum of History > > > > www.museostoricobg.org > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 14:19:02 +0800 From: =?GB2312?B?zfjC582o0MXXqNOq?= To: wwi@wwi-models.org Message-ID: <3D9C8BE000036F58@mta01.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) 向您推荐一种革命性的网络通信产品:LPHONE 这是一部最新科技的网络电话机,只要您有宽带上网的环境,无需电脑及安装任何软件,即可实现两地间的免费通话,电信级别的通话品质,100%的接通率。 功能特点: 1.免费市内/长途/国际电话: LPHONE的使用者之间,打电话如同内部分机一样相互之间转接简单方便。且不产生任何通话费用。 2.使用LPHONE可同时连接普通电话线和上网专线,既可当网络电话使用,又可切换成普通电话拨打一般电话。具有一机多能的优点。 3.使用LPHONE还可以连接PBX程控交换机,能够实现更多的人共同使用LPHONE拨打免费电话的功能。 4.LPHONE 还具有转接功能,普通电话打长途电话时,可通过LPHONE 转接,只产生市话费用。使用连接速度快, 如同使用一般电话。 5.L PHONE可同时储存记忆五组电话号码,使用时用缩位拨号,简单、快捷、方便。 6.兼容性高:兼容于H323 网络通讯协议。 7.节费市内/长途/国际电话;当LPHONE使用者拨打至一般电话时, 透过本系统将可节省大量电话费用, 最多可节省95%以上. 8.不须使用计算机或加装网络软件。 9.局域网内通过对动态IP捆绑的设置也可以使用。 香港佰都国际有限公司总经销: 国内购买请至电:0755-26648962,26406498,26254800,查询 Web: www.online4sale.com Email: tonyyan@netvigator.com 深圳地区24小时免费安装,深圳以外地区快递上门送货,48小时内全国配送。 ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4679 **********************