WWI Digest 4400 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Spam Blizzard by knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) 2) RE: thinning paint with Future by "Laskodi" 3) Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) HOLD ON!! by "Mark C" 4) Update on my models and W.29 help by marcio.castro.campos@ig.com.br 5) Re: I hate tall bottles! by sm5192@verizon.net 6) Re: thinning paint with Future by Larry Marshall 7) RE: thinning paint with Future by Larry Marshall 8) Re: Multiple topics by sm5192@verizon.net 9) Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) HOLD ON!! by bill anthony 10) Re: thinning paint with Future by "Matt Bittner" 11) Back on Line by Steven Perry 12) Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) HOLD ON!! by "Mark C" 13) Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) HOLD ON!! by xtv16@dial.pipex.com 14) Re: Back on Line by Tom Plesha 15) Hi ! from a new subscriber by "Daniel Munoz" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:23:36 +0200 (CEST) From: knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Spam Blizzard Message-ID: <20020511162336.DE5413430F@login-3.eunet.no> Hei, After visiting Nigeria a number of times, I understand that people living there are willing to Spam us in a hope to get out of there. What I do not understand is that there are still people who take up these business proposals, last time I flew into Lagos there was a group of elderly British who were being shepherded by two local "businessmen" onto the plane and through Customs/immigration to inspect the site for proposed investments. I hope they just lost money they could spare and live to tell their stories. If these "businessmen" were to target us directly, it would have to be investing in something like recovery of the Imperial German Air Arm in Namibia from where it was hidden during the British/SA invasion. I am quite sure they could also get us a red Dreidecker with spare cowlings signed by Voss and Timm if the price was right. Reducing the the message length to 3-4kB seems to work fine, the messages that takes time to download and fill up the digests disappear that way, and I think most of us manage to stay within that limit. Eders Knut Erik Mark commented on my original message: >>I am back home in Oslo after working in the North Sea for five weeks, >>so I am afraid Africa is without list members at the moment. >And apropos of both, I have to wonder about the accuracy - I've been getting >a heck of a lot of e-mails through the list from Abacho or whoever, and other >African "members," haven't you? ;<{P ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 09:52:29 -0700 From: "Laskodi" To: "WWI List Post" Subject: RE: thinning paint with Future Message-ID: <001701c1f90c$3cd4fe40$313819d0@f4hn201> The best thinning agent for Polly Scale/Aeromaster acrylics is Future. It helps ease the clogging/gooping problem associated with these brands and flows beautifully through the airbrush giving a smooth durable finish that rivals enamels. I thin 2:1 (paint:Future). Have never tried MisterKit or Acryl paints so I cannot comment on these. Future DOES NOT work as a thinning agent for Tamiya acrylics, it only causes this paint to thicken and "gel up" since it is a latex acrylic formula. Future also does not work as a thinner for enamels or lacquers as these are oil-based paints. HTH ------Bob ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 13:03:43 -0400 From: "Mark C" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) HOLD ON!! Message-ID: >From: bill anthony >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) >Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 09:50:19 -0400 (EDT) > >David, > Thanks for the suggestion. Since it is acrylic >paint and future, I will try to see if alcohol will do >the trick first, then use stronger stuff if need be. I didn't catch this at first, sorry! But if the paint you want to remove contains future (e.g., it was mixed in), then removal is drop dead easy - use diluted ammonia. It will literally come right up. If the Future is just an overcoat, start with the ammonia anyway. At least that's one layer gone. If the acrylic paint was Tamiya, then you're in real luck - ammonia just vaporizes it. Give it a shot - ammonia will not harm plastic at all. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 19:33:27 -0300 From: marcio.castro.campos@ig.com.br To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Update on my models and W.29 help Message-ID: <3CDCDDDD0001C95A@mta02.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) Folks, I'm using webmail from my parents' home. Hope it doesn't arrive as HTML... The Red Baron triplane is almost done! The left cabane strut is already attached. Now I must only varnish and glue the right cabane strut and attach the landing gear, which is ready. Then I'll rig the plane with stretched sprue (I have a Revell S-37, made with black plastic :-D) BTW: I HATE CABANE STRUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!! OK, back to normal mode. Jacobs's tripe: parts already painted: top wing, tailplane, seat, machine guns, cowling interior, doped linen coats in fuselage interior, engine, wheels and tires, a certain piece in which I'll attach the guns, cockpit floor (pedals still to be painted) and the control stick (can't remember the correct name, you know what I mean, I hope :-D). Everything is going very well, and now I can join the choir of those who praise the Eduard Dr.I. But I can't assemble cockpit yet because there's an Humbrol color missing for the piece in which I attach the seat, I must buy it this week. Ah, this model will be the first one in which I'll use Future. W.29 is going slower, I painted fuselage interior, started assembling the engine, painted parts of the wooden cart (or whatever it is) and assembled both floats. I'd like to ask you some help about this W.29. As you know, Eastern Express made a wonderful working depicting serial 2521 on box art, then providing decals for 2292 and 2611 and, finally, giving instructions for a Norwegian W.29. I chose 2611, even because I dislike the "fat" crosses :-) and here start the questions: For those who have a Datafile, go to page 9, there's a picture of 2611 there. It says that the starboard gun was removed. But the batch to which 2611 belongs is described as C3MG, i.e. one flexible and *two* fixed machine guns. So I ask whether I can place all MGs in the plane (am I being too picky?). Second question, what's the best shade of blue for the fuselage within the Humbrol range? I have 25 (too dark IMO), 47 (gloss) 89 and 109. Is the whole fuselage painted with the same color? More: what's the color of undersurfaces? And last but not least: what's the color of floats? Blue or wood? Were they covered with lozenge? (I hope not, it's gonna be hard placing decals in those irregular surfaces) Thanks for the help! All the best from Brazil Marcio Campos (Bummer, Cirque du Soleil is sold out in Quebec City) np: Duran Duran, "Ordinary World" _________________________________________________________________________ Você podia estar baixando sua musica predileta, enquanto lia esse e-mail. Não perca tempo, tenha acesso rápido a internet com o Super iG. http://registro.ig.com.br/superig ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:46:57 -0500 From: sm5192@verizon.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: I hate tall bottles! Message-ID: <20020511234657.WNIQ12777.out007.verizon.net@out007> Even worse is control without responsibility. by the way Michael I finished the Blue Max Snipe on Tuesday. Alvie who since his computer hard drive died has had to make do with a somewhat inadequate lap top and is now 460 messages behind. > > From: "Michael Kendix" > Date: 2002/05/07 Tue PM 12:48:04 CDT > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: I hate tall bottles! > > >From: "Lee M." > > > >We did not evolve a third hand because God did not want us to do >that. He > >forces us to accept, at the very least, some sort of >responsibility. > > If it was God's will for us not to have a 3rd hand, we are responsible for > the outcome. It's a bad bureacracy that gives you responsibility without > control! > > Michael > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 20:15:12 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: thinning paint with Future Message-ID: <20020512001843.YQPZ29188.tomts22-srv.bellnexxia.net@there> > I thin with close to half-and-half with Future - half Future and > half paint - then throw in a drop or two of windshield washer > fluid. Spray in light coats, as it's a little thinner than > normal. Matt, since you've done a great review on the MisterKit acrylics, have you ever thinned them with Future? > There's an article on Hyperscale (http://www.hyperscale.com) > about thinning Polly Scale with their own gloss, which also I'll check this out. Thanks for the reference. At the moment I don't have any Poly Scale paints but I'm still casting about for 'best' solutions. Speaking of which, does anyone know of a readily accessible replacement for Testors Modelmaster thinner might be? I don't mean to sound cheap by this question and would quickly buy one of the half pint tins of MM thinner if it were available to me. But, there's a single source for MM paint here in Quebec and they sell the thinning in 1oz bottles for $6 per bottle. Since the hazmat charges on such stuff is prohibitive, ordering it via mail order is out of the question too so I'm looking for an alternative solution. > describes using a hair dryer between coats to speed up the drying > process. I haven't tried this yet, but may on a future (no pun > intended :-)) model. Would that be a French airplane, perhaps? Cheers -- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 20:19:55 -0400 From: Larry Marshall To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: thinning paint with Future Message-ID: <20020512002325.JEKU11344.tomts21-srv.bellnexxia.net@there> > The best thinning agent for Polly Scale/Aeromaster acrylics is Excuse my ignorance but who sells Aeromaster acrylics? I haven't seen those in my wanderings of the plastics sites. > smooth durable finish that rivals enamels. I thin 2:1 > (paint:Future). Have never tried MisterKit or Acryl paints so I Ok, so you thin less than Matt. I suspect the difference is how much air pressure you use to spray. Thanks, Bob. Cheers --- Larry ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 20:08:07 -0500 From: sm5192@verizon.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Multiple topics Message-ID: <20020512010807.WZOF12777.out007.verizon.net@out007> Lucky Strike means fine tobacco. Alvie a child of the fifties > > From: "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" > Date: 2002/05/08 Wed AM 07:49:34 CDT > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Multiple topics > > Greetings all, > > First to Larry: I'm multiscalar (or is it polyscalar?) What does that say > about me, or don't I want to know? ;) > > Next to Lee: Eyes on the ends of my fingers? Neat idea, maybe then I could > see what I was typing! > > D.: All parents have eyes on the backs of their heads. It's necessary for > the continuation of the species. > > HTH, IMHO, FWIW, LSMFT, and all that, > > Ken Zelnick > nb/sb (now building / still building) Hobbycraft 1/32 SPAD XIII, Glencoe > 1/48 A-H Alb. D-III > > (Curious to know how many remember what LSMFT stands for) > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:09:18 -0700 (PDT) From: bill anthony To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) HOLD ON!! Message-ID: <20020512010918.22165.qmail@web13007.mail.yahoo.com> Mark, The top layer over coat is future and the paint is Pollyscale. Will consider the ammonia though. Hate the smell though! Thanks, Bill A. --- Mark C wrote: > > > > >From: bill anthony > >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org > >To: Multiple recipients of list > > >Subject: [WWI] Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 > (suggestion?) > >Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 09:50:19 -0400 (EDT) > > > >David, > > Thanks for the suggestion. Since it is acrylic > >paint and future, I will try to see if alcohol will > do > >the trick first, then use stronger stuff if need > be. > > I didn't catch this at first, sorry! But if the > paint you want to remove > contains future (e.g., it was mixed in), then > removal is drop dead easy - > use diluted ammonia. It will literally come right > up. If the Future is > just an overcoat, start with the ammonia anyway. At > least that's one layer > gone. If the acrylic paint was Tamiya, then you're > in real luck - ammonia > just vaporizes it. > > Give it a shot - ammonia will not harm plastic at > all. > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:41:57 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Re: thinning paint with Future Message-ID: On Sat, 11 May 2002 20:20:48 -0400 (EDT), Larry Marshall wrote: > Matt, since you've done a great review on the MisterKit acrylics, > have you ever thinned them with Future? No, I haven't tried it yet. > Would that be a French airplane, perhaps? Could be! :-) Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 00:16:28 -0400 From: Steven Perry To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Back on Line Message-ID: <3CDDEC9C.6000507@tampabay.rr.com> I made it back from cyber-limbo armed with a new computer. Bought the parts and with great assistance from the service desk and a buddy I got it running. Got some more rib taping done on the LVG while fidgeting for lack of List mail. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 07:38:02 -0400 From: "Mark C" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) HOLD ON!! Message-ID: >From: bill anthony >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) HOLD ON!! >Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 21:11:13 -0400 (EDT) > >Mark, > The top layer over coat is future and the paint is >Pollyscale. Will consider the ammonia though. Hate >the smell though! > Thanks, You might want to consider an ammonia "Easy Liftoff" combination, then. ELO is made by the same people who made Polly-Scale paints. You can apply it with a brush or q-tip, wait a bit, and then use a bit of tissue to rub off the paint. Problem is, it's greasy, and can easily slide around - so you'll likely have to strip the *whole* wing, both upper and lower. If you're not concerned about that, I can recommend ELO. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 13:09:43 +0100 From: xtv16@dial.pipex.com To: Subject: Re: Paint Stripping my DR1 (suggestion?) HOLD ON!! Message-ID: <1021205383.3cde5b87810e0@netmail.pipex.net> Quoting bill anthony : > Mark, > The top layer over coat is future and the paint is > Pollyscale. Will consider the ammonia though. Hate > the smell though! Check your household cleaing supplies - I use Cif mousse, for cleaning the bath. You can spray a little into a bowl then apply it with an old tooth brush - leave it for a few minutes, then take if off with the toothbrush, use a scrubbing motion - very controllable, just rinse it off. Dave Fleming ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 07:29:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Plesha To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Back on Line Message-ID: <20020512142946.20234.qmail@web20503.mail.yahoo.com> Welcome back and you survived the cyberspace adventure in good shape. Later Tom --- Steven Perry wrote: > I made it back from cyber-limbo armed with a new > computer. Bought the > parts and with great assistance from the service > desk and a buddy I got > it running. > > Got some more rib taping done on the LVG while > fidgeting for lack of > List mail. > > sp > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 11:19:33 -0400 From: "Daniel Munoz" To: Subject: Hi ! from a new subscriber Message-ID: <000801c1f9c8$6bb983e0$0a00a8c0@bigbazar> Hello, I'm a new subscriber to this list. I found it while searching the web for information about A7V tank and WWI in general. First, a few words of presentation: I'm a French citizen living in Quebec since 3 years. That explain the funny accent and the English language abuse. I'm 36 years old, married, and to make a proper living I'm a Windows programmer specialized in graphical user interfaces, self-employed. I'm a beginner in modeling, and maybe my path is not very usual. I'm not really interested in painting, so that plastic kits have little appeal to me. But I always wanted to scratch build things, without very specific subject in mind but with the hope to learn to use tools and improve my skills. If you are interested to take a look of what I've done so far during the past months, here's my website : http://www.nutsnbits.com . As you will eventually see, I have a large field of interest ! Life didn't give me the chance to build anything so far, too much work, not enough time and no place in my apartment, until recently when I moved to a place with a large basement. For that occasion I filled a basement room with tools, a miniature lathe and mill, a band saw, a drill press, a grinder and now that I'm fully equipped I try to scratch build things as small as possible (don't know why, I like small things!) So, about more related WWI stuff: I have the project to build a A7V from scratch, scale 1/35 of larger (I'll try first 1/35). The armor plates will be in aluminium. the details will be either aluminium / brass / steel, I'm not sure for now. I intend to build it all closed, without any way to see the interior. After all, it's a first project. I'll see later for a detailed interior ;-) I have a lot of photographs and documentation about A7V, collected on the Internet. Enough I think to build one very accurately, except maybe for a few obscure details. Unfortunately, I don't have Mr. Hundleby book "German A7V Tank and the Captured British Mark IV Tanks", that seem to be THE reference about A7V, but I have "German tanks in WWI" from Wolfgang Schneider. I was hoping that I could find here some people interested by that project and that could share advices with me, or maybe other scratch builders perhaps ? It seem to have many plane builders here, but I've also seem some other models like cars or tanks in the website gallery. Thanks for reading ! Daniel Munoz Quebec, Canada. ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4400 **********************