WWI Digest 4255 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: HaZet Radiators by PetersList@aol.com 2) Re: HaZet Radiators by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 3) Re: HaZet Radiators by PetersList@aol.com 4) Contractors changes - was Revell AG's 1:48 SE5a & D.V by knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) 5) New kits by knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) 6) Re: Revell AG's 1:48 SE5a & D.VII.. Public boycotts a n by "Ross Moorhouse" 7) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Hans Trauner" 8) Re: The Things You Learn on Ebay by "Michael Kendix" 9) RE: pilot figures by "David C. Fletcher" 10) Message fro Ivan Subrt by "Alberto Casirati" 11) Pilot figures by "Fraser" 12) Re: HaZet Radiators by "Harris, Mack" 13) Re: Odp: Re: Austrian Sworl by "Hans Trauner" 14) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Steven Perry" 15) Re: New kits by VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com 16) Re: Replicating a wood finish by Mark Miller 17) Re: HaZet Radiators by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 18) Odp: Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 19) Re: HaZet Radiators by PetersList@aol.com 20) Re: Odp: Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Michael Kendix" 21) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Harris, Mack" 22) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "ot811" 23) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 24) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Peter Ecos" 25) Re: Replicating a wood - Alb parts by "Brian Nicklas" 26) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Matt Bittner" 27) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "ot811" 28) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Hans Trauner" 29) Re: New Albatrso D V and Rol CIIa by Eduard -first impressions /long mail! - by "Mark Shannon" 30) Re: Replicating a wood finish by "Mark Shannon" 31) 祝华厦在线新老客户：心想事成、万事如意! by "顶点数据" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:05:27 EST From: PetersList@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: HaZet Radiators Message-ID: In a message dated 13/03/02 19:18:32 GMT Standard Time, lance.krieg@amerus.com writes: << Dammit, Peter, I responded to this last year. I think you're dumping my posts.. >> Sorry, what was the question? ;) Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:15:26 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: HaZet Radiators Message-ID: <018901c1cacb$d3fc8c80$0200a8c0@x.pl> Which one is HaZet? this flat one on side of early Albies B.I, C.I and Tauben? G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:16:18 EST From: PetersList@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: HaZet Radiators Message-ID: In a message dated 13/03/02 20:15:06 GMT Standard Time, grzem@yahoo.com writes: << Which one is HaZet? this flat one on side of early Albies B.I, C.I and Tauben? >> YUP ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:20:22 +0100 (CET) From: knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Contractors changes - was Revell AG's 1:48 SE5a & D.V Message-ID: <20020313202022.1C22E342D8@login-3.eunet.no> And I think Aeroclub is taking advantage of the common use of components when producing their latest WW1 releases Peter L wrote: The RE-8 and the BE-2e had the same wings and tail, and the >FE-2 the same wings as the BE-2c. The prototype Bristol F2A seems also to >have had similar wings to the BE-2c but it may just be a superficial >resemblance. The Gloster Grebe supposedly had some SE-5a parts but it's >difficult to see what, except for the tail skid. Looking at some Sopwiths you >notice inspection panels in different shapes sizes and locations. I shouldn't >be in the least surprized to learn that one sub-contactors aileron wouldn't >fit anothers wings. Eders Knut Erik ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:20:26 +0100 (CET) From: knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: New kits Message-ID: <20020313202026.72821343AF@login-3.eunet.no> Hei, Having sent my order to ClassicPlane - MRR just a month ago - does it mean that I have four more months to wait for my L黡emen... Eders Knut Erik Jon wrote: > And then to >top it off, today I finally received my package from Classic Planes that I >ordered back in Oct. same as Karen did. She and I were both wondering when >our boxes from Classic would arrive, so have heart Karen it should be real >soon for you I think. My box has 3 Luedemann Taube kits, the >Jeannin-Steahltaube, the Etrich-Rumpler Taube and the Gotha Taube these are >very well cast and have flight surfaces so thin that you can see light >through them, I only hope I do them justice. I also received a Macchi M.9, a >Dornier V.1, a Sablatning SF.2 and the best yet the new Caproni Ca.3, this >kit even has the rear machine gun cage cast in resin and looks at first >glance to be pretty good. I cannot recommend these kits enough as far as >casting and quality, as for dimensions that will be seen when I get them on >the bench. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 07:24:20 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Revell AG's 1:48 SE5a & D.VII.. Public boycotts a n Message-ID: <002501c1cacd$0ec0b020$76492dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> I would of said that you are flying a Warp Wing AEG.. ;-) Cheers Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Diego Fernetti" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 11:19 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Revell AG's 1:48 SE5a & D.VII.. Public boycotts a n > Dang! > And what is worst, my albatros D.V is just and Airfix! > AAARGHH! > D. > PS: I never tought that I would be able to play with the models by Email as > one would do in real life, but here we are, spinning, rolling and looping on > the net! > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Crawford Neil > To: Multiple recipients of list > Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 9:13 AM > Subject: [WWI] Re: Revell AG's 1:48 SE5a & D.VII.. Public boycotts a n > > > > Except you're flying an Albie DV, and the top wing just flew off! > > /Neil C. > > > > > > > Ha ha ha ha ha! you'll never get me with that uneven SE5a! ;-) > > > D. > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:28:21 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: <000d01c1cacd$9ebedee0$7cab72d4@FRITZweb> > Wanted to ask the list about your favorite painting technique to replicate > unpainted -though not necessarily unvarnished, dope-coated wood. > > I think my old method of airbrushing a light wood color and then later > mixing a darker shade of brown using an oil paint mixed with turpentine > -which will react with the plastic, is in need of a major revision! Why? I am using a nearly identical method. My last Albatros was airbrushed with Tamiya mix of brown, fairly light, near ochre. Then I covered it with dark brown oil paint. As it comes from the tube, *undiluted!!*. Give it 15 to 20 minutes to settle. Then I removed the paint with a broad, old, relative stiff brush. Watch the directions of the removing action - at last you'll have the texture required. The main disadvantage is a long drying time afterwards. Will took a week to be safe. If required, panels could be masked before or after, Parafilm or Tamiya tape will help. Under normal circumstances a egg shell finish will be the result. Perfect for glossy fuselages in 1/72 or 'older, former glossy' fuselages in 1/48. There should be no problems with silvering when you use good thin decals directly on it. H. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 20:28:43 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: The Things You Learn on Ebay Message-ID: >From: "Brent Theobald" > >This character is selling an "Ultra-Rare" Fredrichshafen G.III from the >"very long gone" Sierra Scale model company. Kind of funny in a sad >sort >of way. I hope it doesn't hurt Bob's business in any way. > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1713178269 This is a blatant falsehood and I cannot think how these claims would have been made inadvertently. On the contrary, the vendor appears to have gone to some lengths to establish the false notion that this is a "Rare" and "Unobtainable elsewise" kit. Sierra Scale is very much alive and kicking and the model is offered for sale for $21.95 on the Sierra Scale web site: see http://sierrascale.hypermart.net As Brent suggests, such claims are not only false but potentially damaging to Bob's busines by claiming he is no longer selling kits. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 12:33:53 -0800 From: "David C. Fletcher" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: pilot figures Message-ID: <003b01c1cace$643122a0$af884318@cc.shawcable.net> "The good news is that I found a 1/32 scale standing mechanic figure from the Matchbox Tiger Moth. I'd obviously used the pilot. The bad news is that I realised that I want it for myself..." I have two Matchbox (ot alert!!!) Tigers, but I can't find the pilots or groundcrew at the moment. Since I never throw anything plastic away, they are around somewhere. I'll see if I can find them. If all else fails, go to http://pages.infinit.net/jmarcpe/.. Jean-Marc in Montreal runs a parts exchange under the name of :Model Scrapyard". You pay postage and contribute some extra parts to the bin to get what you want. If he doesn't have what you are looking for, there is a wants list you can submit your name and required pieces too. I have used this service when I could not get replacement parts I needed from behind what was then the Iron Curtain. Dave Fletcher ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:32:00 +0100 From: "Alberto Casirati" To: "WW1 Modeling List" Subject: Message fro Ivan Subrt Message-ID: <000201c1cad0$8dba7520$53e422d4@s> Dear Ivan, I lost your e-mail ! Can you please reply off-list ? Thanks ! Sorry, List, this was the only way to ask.... Alberto Casirati ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:55:55 +0100 From: "Fraser" To: Subject: Pilot figures Message-ID: <001f01c1cad1$cbdf28e0$aac51bd4@pc145681> Brian, Uhhhh, roger the chuck yeager inna Camel, will it fly faster? Can Chuck be trusted not to rip off the wings??? :~) Not a bad idea. I'll check out reheat 'cause I also need a pilot (sitting ) for a definitely ot Hasegawa SpitfireIX (gorgeous kit) Cheers F ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:00:47 -0600 From: "Harris, Mack" To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: HaZet Radiators Message-ID: Here's a nice drawing: http://mars.ark.com/~mdf/Hazet.jpg Mack -----Original Message----- From: Grzegorz Mazurowski [mailto:grzem@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 2:14 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Re: HaZet Radiators Which one is HaZet? this flat one on side of early Albies B.I, C.I and Tauben? G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 22:06:46 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Odp: Re: Austrian Sworl Message-ID: <001f01c1cad2$fc78c280$7cab72d4@FRITZweb> > Some people build Dr.Is in red.... > G. Hmmm...really? It's like building a $-51D in swiss markings. H. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:21:30 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: <006f01c1cad5$0b650860$0fe82341@tampabay.rr.com> > Wanted to ask the list about your favorite painting technique to replicate > unpainted -though not necessarily unvarnished, dope-coated wood. My technique of choice varys with where the wood is. Interior framing can be painted a wood color base and then marked up lengthwusw with a darker brown watercolor pencil. This is then gone over with a barely moist cotton swab to blend the WC a little. Coat with Future, (spray, brushing removes the WC) Interior ply. Use scraps of ply decal that aren't suitable for exterior use. This includes most commercial ply decals. Exterior wood, (struts, UC) Same as Interior framing. Exterior ply. I find three things that must be present for realism. The "grain" must be visible which means overscale. The eye must see it for the brain to say WOOD. The grain cannot "match up" across panel lines. And finally it needs a good gloss to appear varnished. I find that making my own decals is easiest. Spray a sheet of clear material with a base coat of wood, blond for albatri, tan wood for stained ply finishes. Several light coats to build up an opaque base. Enamel or acrylic, I prefer acryl. When good and dry, say overnight, take an old stiff brush, lately I've had success with a fan type, and ENAMEL. Must be enamel. Brown/black mix for albatri and softer browns for other plys. Get a small amount on the brush and stipple the brush on a piece of paper until you see the individual bristle marks. Now lightly swipe back and forth on the painted decal material to produce the grain. Enamel smears better than acryl and hence the importance of enamel in this step. Do the whole sheet and don't worry if you get 10 or 15% of it too dark.. When dry coat with MicroScale Clear Fecal Film airbrushed. Apply one panel at a time. Cut adjacent the panels from different areas of the sheet so as the grain will not match. Cut each decal panel 1/8 " or so larger and approximately the same shape as the panel. Line up one corner of the decal on one corner of the panel, blot and trim the overlapping two sides on the panel lines with the flat of a #11 blade, not the point as that will move the decal too much and make a crooked cut. The panel lines should be painted a black brown prior to applying decals. Butt the decal panels up to each other along the panel lines and any tiny gaps won't be seen due to the under paint. Work from nose to tail one tier of panels at a time. When you are done take a real fine pointed brush and run a little brown paint along the panel lines. Keep a swab or rag handy to wipe up excess. This makes the glue lines. Tack lines can be simulated by tiny dots of black or near black paint. Again it will be overscale by necessity for the eye to see it. Spray several coats of Future over it all when finished. The future can be tinted anywhere from yellow to dark brown depending on the subject. It takes a full evening to do a 1/48 Albatross fuselage. Dries way quicker than oils and if you mess up a piece after it is applied, you can scrape it off and replace it. Whatever Dennis says about rising to your own level of masochism ;-) sp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:23:05 EST From: VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: New kits Message-ID: <153.a670c92.29c11d39@aol.com> --part1_153.a670c92.29c11d39_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/13/2002 3:23:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no writes: > Hei, >=20 > Having sent my order to ClassicPlane - MRR just a month ago > - does it mean that I have four more months to wait for my L=FCdemen... >=20 >=20 Only if your lucky! Detlef is slow but his kits are worth the wait. Best Regards, Jon =20 =20 =20 --part1_153.a670c92.29c11d39_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/13/2002 3= :23:25 PM Eastern Standard Time, knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no writes:

Hei,

Having sent my order to ClassicPlane - MRR just a month ago
- does it mean that I have four more months to wait for my L=FCdemen...



Only if your lucky! Detlef is slow but his kits are worth the wait.

<= B>Best Regards,
 Jon  =


            &nbs= p;

--part1_153.a670c92.29c11d39_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: 13 Mar 2002 13:23:48 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: <20020313212348.14002.cpmta@c016.snv.cp.net> On Wed, 13 March 2002, "Grzegorz Mazurowski" wrote: > Hi! > I've made this with almost oval shaped fuselage of Polish "Los" bomber (just for training, as Los was full metal plane), and now (just now) I'm doing this with Airfix Albie D.V. So you see, man, we, in Poland... To be serious, I'm using something which is thinner than veneer. As thin as paper. It's a piece of wood, which was made during planing (flattening with plan). It was rolled at first, but I ironed it with normal cloth iron. When you cut it with exacto knife in shapes of original panels, it isn't very hard to just glue it to fuselage. > Enjoy!!!! > G. Hi Grzegorz Have you put in the wood panels that merge into the stab and rudder? I'm amazed they could get plywood to do that in 1:1 scale, To simulate it on a 1/72 scale model will be quite a trick. good luck I used 1/64 inch ply on the 1/48 CIII - but it's slab sided so it wasn't very difficult. mark Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 22:41:55 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: HaZet Radiators Message-ID: <01c201c1cad7$e91f3340$0200a8c0@x.pl> It is set of very flat, corrugated wide strip-shaped panels. I have very good photos of it in Russian book about captured German planes. IMHO the best way to do it is to take PE Junkers corrugated metal (I have one from ABER) or just corrugate strips of thin metal (you can do it with old, not very sharp blade, just by pressing knife on metal layed on something not very hard - like wood), and later join all that with stretched sprue. Should look good. Or very good :-) G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 22:47:59 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Odp: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: <01d001c1cad8$d22e9760$0200a8c0@x.pl> > Have you put in the wood panels that merge into the stab and rudder? No. I've cut stab. and covered it separately. And then glued to covered fuselage. Rudder was fabric covered, IIRC. BTW, even such thin wood can be sanded a little to get correct shape. G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:50:31 EST From: PetersList@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: HaZet Radiators Message-ID: <73.1c4c5614.29c123a7@aol.com> In a message dated 13/03/02 21:41:57 GMT Standard Time, grzem@yahoo.com writes: << PE Junkers corrugated metal (I have one from ABER) >> Tell me more. I have no idea what this is cheers Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:54:39 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Odp: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: >From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" >Rudder was fabric covered, IIRC. Some of the rudder is wood on some planes; e.g. Albatros D.V. Michael _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:54:50 -0600 From: "Harris, Mack" To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: I don't know if anyone else has seen this but I ran across a site the other day that is selling wood veener that is thin enough to go through a laser printer. Their whole premise is to set you up in business to go to fairs and different exhibits and take your computer and print pictures on this wood veneer. Go to :http://www.art-on-wood.com/ for info. They tend toward the lighter woods because if you used something like mahogony printing would be hard to see. Have a look, I've been thinking of buying some, just have done it yet. Mack -----Original Message----- From: Grzegorz Mazurowski [mailto:grzem@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 1:50 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Re: Replicating a wood finish > Peter Plattner, Austrian Austro-Hungarian modeler extraordinaire, uses thin > veneer but he does it on slab-siders in 1/48th scale > I cannot imagine bringing that off on an oval shaped cross-section fuselage > like an Albatros D.V, but just because I cannot imagine it doesn't mean it > cannot be done. Of course, if you go for 1/32nd scale that might be more of > a proposition. I've used wood decal and in my view, it is not as good. Hi! I've made this with almost oval shaped fuselage of Polish "Los" bomber (just for training, as Los was full metal plane), and now (just now) I'm doing this with Airfix Albie D.V. So you see, man, we, in Poland... To be serious, I'm using something which is thinner than veneer. As thin as paper. It's a piece of wood, which was made during planing (flattening with plan). It was rolled at first, but I ironed it with normal cloth iron. When you cut it with exacto knife in shapes of original panels, it isn't very hard to just glue it to fuselage. Enjoy!!!! G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:57:08 -0500 From: "ot811" To: Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: <00fa01c1cada$07441c30$0800010a@cyberelan.com> Steven, you refer to : >>>>> MicroScale Clear Fecal Film airbrushed. ----- is that one step stronger than the egg and milk mixture? regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 23:20:18 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: <01ee01c1cadd$435f8080$0200a8c0@x.pl> > Some of the rudder is wood on some planes; e.g. Albatros D.V. > Michael I thought it was fabric covered, I've seen it even in lozenge... See: http://204.83.160.230/archive/b/images/Hantelmann_AlbDV.jpg Grzegorz _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:29:00 -0600 From: "Peter Ecos" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: SSH, Of course it can be an option. Where do you get this veneer? I'd imagine it must be razor thin, and like Michael Kendix was saying, would it conform to a complex shaped fuselage like the Albatross? I am willing to give it a try. What brand should I look for and what gauge? I am assuming you can stain this just like the real thing using oils and that it can be shaped by soaking it in water first? dumb questions.... >From: "ot811" >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Re: Replicating a wood finish >Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 13:32:10 -0500 (EST) > >Peter, > How about using actual veneer instead of plastic. Is that an option? >The results are great. And it takes the 'art' out of finishing. > Pedro Soares' technique is also very effective. >regards >SSH > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:30:35 -0500 From: "Brian Nicklas" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Replicating a wood - Alb parts Message-ID: D.Va construction Vertical & horizontal fin (stabilizers) = wood Vertical & horizontal flying surfaces (elevator & rudder) = fabric covered metal tube ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:38:59 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: On Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:56:02 -0500 (EST), Harris, Mack wrote: > I don't know if anyone else has seen this but I ran across a site the other > day that is selling wood veener that is thin enough to go through a laser > printer. Their whole premise is to set you up in business to go to fairs > and different exhibits and take your computer and print pictures on this > wood veneer. Go to :http://www.art-on-wood.com/ for info. > They tend toward the lighter woods because if you used something like > mahogony printing would be hard to see. Look neat. However, with everything wood-based (i.e. this veneer, other veneers, decals, etc.) I have only one question: is the wood to scale? If you take a piece of "real" wood and thin it, then the grain is not to scale. While Hustad's method is beautiful, I don't agree with it because in 1/72nd, the grain would almost disappear. At least that's MHO, so YMMV, FWIW... Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:50:11 -0500 From: "ot811" To: "wwi-list" Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: <012101c1cae1$71694020$0800010a@cyberelan.com> Peter, After my post, there were a couple of posts that look very promising. Somebody suggested using wood shaving (Hans?), and somebody cited an URL to a place that sells veneer down to 0.006 inch thick. But to answer your question: I use veneer which is approximately 1/64 inch thick (including backing). In US, it is available in woodworking hobby stores, in various woods. I got a sampler pack for about usd 10, and it contained 6 different wood sheets of 8.5 x 11. It is sometimes also available in the regular modelling hobby stores. The veneer is not too thin, but I suspect you can sand it down a bit. You can also remove the backing with lacquer thinner. It can be curved, but only on the grain axis, so if you were doing a albatros fuselage it would have to be done by panels. It can be stained like the real thing, and it looks great. Let me know if you need more info. regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 23:54:38 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: <00e701c1cae2$0d9d0b20$7cab72d4@FRITZweb> It's even worse. Birch ply shows only a very specific, very soft grain , at last when you are more than 1 foot away. And when it is fresh, it's quite uni-colored. But! If you don't simulate grain, the fuselage looks simply boring. We all knew that we have to overdo things from time to time. But as I use very tiny 'wood grains' in 1/48 I would use a finer brush in 1/72 anyway. ( Yes I am a bi - scaler !) H. Matt wrote: > While Hustad's method is beautiful, I don't agree with it because > in 1/72nd, the grain would almost disappear. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:02:57 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: New Albatrso D V and Rol CIIa by Eduard -first impressions /long mail! - Message-ID: <000301c1caeb$e2ed1c80$e908aec7@theshann> Tom's Model Works makes a PE sheet of german machine guns in both 1/48th and 1/72nd. Lots of little fiddly bits. I would use the receiver and breach portion of the kit gun, cut off the barrel, and use the Tom's parts for that and to detail the plastic. The pieces for the trunion fork, ammunition drum, and feed are a pain in the PE set, but with a bit of patience really look good. The 1/48th sheet comes with 3 Spandau and 3 Parabellum sets, with choices of cooling sleeve pattern for the latter and different styles of sights. The brass is paper thin and very soft. I am not sure what all comes on the 1/72nd sheet, but I suspect it is a photo reduction of the same thing. If so, we are really talking about eyestrain and a one-way trip to the booby hatch. .Mark. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hans Trauner" BTW, is there > any pe set for a Parabellum on the market? Could not find one... > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:47:24 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Replicating a wood finish Message-ID: <000201c1caeb$e1e21520$e908aec7@theshann> My method is similar to several that have been mentioned. I give everything a base coat of either Testors Wood (from the little bottles) or Humbrol #110 Natural Wood, then a random light spray of a light wood tone - Humbrol #71 Oak or Radome Tan, or the like. When those have dried, I sand them smooth and mask panels to start the 'graining' First I use drybrushing with wood tones, starting from the overall impression (light or dark) to the opposite set - I like to use Humbrol paints for this, they don't clump up on me like Testor's do over a long session - using less and less as I go to the other end of the range. (I hope this is clear, I just mean if I want a lighter wood tone, I start drybrushing at the light end and go to darker colors, using less drybrushing of each as they get darker, the opposite for if I want a dark wood.) Sometimes the last color is applied with isolated stabbing motions, leaving a scatter of flecks of color. My typical colors are: Humbrol 71, 72, 84, 93, 94, 98, 110, 121, and 170, plus the Testors Wood. Sometimes I use Humbrol 10. I then draw using colored pencils, but I don't try to draw in a full grain directly - instead I put in isolated lines, a few roughly parallel grain lines, and 'effects' like eye shapes where there was not quite a knot in the wood. I use the rough texture from the drybrushing to guide some of this. I then add gloss coats or satin coats for varnish. I tint them with food color - an airbrush cup of Future with about 4 drops red, 2 green, and 8 to 10 yellow food coloring gives a nice spar varnish color. I use several coats over several days to build up the varnish coat to the right tone. If I have a multipanel effect, like an Albatros fuselage, I mask for half of the panels, do all the dry brushing, then mask for the other half, treating them all with the same set of paints, but different directions. Then I can do the other steps to the whole. For panel separation lines, where they are really a visible end grain and glue line, or structure shadowing inside fuselages, I run a bead of burnt sienna watercolor into the line after the first coat of the varnish, then continue varnishing coats. I usually finish my 1/48th wood areas in a slightly dulled gloss tone - about two parts Future to 1 part PollyScale Clear Semi-gloss - yes it does make a difference in tone. The trick is to make the different panels different patterns and add effects you would see in wood - like a panel where the lighter outer wood contrasts with a darker heartwood streak. Make subtle buildups between areas of color, and use different amounts of grain in different panels. Under a coat of the tinted clear varnish, the differences are actually more pronounced than what you see as you drybrush and draw them. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:15:28 From: "顶点数据" To: Subject: 祝华厦在线新老客户：心想事成、万事如意! 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