WWI Digest 4215 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re:" Brick " Camouflage by Rory Goodwin 2) Re: silence by "Lee M." 3) R: Nie. 17's, decals, etc. by a.casirati@cornali-trasporti.it 4) CO2 set-up - a warning by "Mike Franklin" 5) RE: Adrian Helmet by "Diego Fernetti" 6) The St. Harry wing gamble by "Steven Perry" 7) RE: The St. Harry wing gamble by Crawford Neil 8) RE: ot models by Crawford Neil 9) RE: The St. Harry wing gamble by "Steven Perry" 10) Re: French machine contest by Crawford Neil 11) RE: Adrian Helmet by PetersList@aol.com 12) RE: The St. Harry wing gamble by Crawford Neil 13) Re: The St. Harry wing gamble by PetersList@aol.com 14) Re: The St. Harry wing gamble by PetersList@aol.com 15) Re: SAMI CSM MoSA-AI by Crawford Neil 16) RE: Adrian Helmet by "Diego Fernetti" 17) RE: The St. Harry wing gamble by "Diego Fernetti" 18) Re: silence by "Diego Fernetti" 19) RE: The St. Harry wing gamble by Crawford Neil 20) avro 504 by "Diego Fernetti" 21) Re: avro 504 by "Ross Moorhouse" 22) Re: Airbrush qn by Balzer Mr Gregory P 23) RE: CO2 set-up - a warning by Balzer Mr Gregory P 24) Re: FW: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble by tbittners@sprintmail.com 25) Model Expo Albatros build by tbittners@sprintmail.com 26) Re: FW: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble by "Diego Fernetti" 27) Re: FW: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble by Crawford Neil 28) Re: FW: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble by "Diego Fernetti" 29) Re: Model Expo Albatros build by "Michael Robinson" 30) bad e-mail service by plesha3@comcast.net 31) RE: CO2 set-up - a warning by "ibs4421" 32) RE: Fe2b prop by "ot811" 33) =?big5?Q?=BCx=A4~: =A7=DA=AD=CC=ACO=BA=D6=A7Q=AB=D8=A5=FE=ABO=BB=D9=A6~=C1~14=AD=D3=A4=EB=AA=BA=A4=BD=A5q?= by ÅwÁâ°ê»ÚªÑ¥÷¦³­­¤½¥q 34) RE: CO2 set-up - a warning by "Lee M." 35) RE: CO2 set-up - a warning by "ibs4421" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 21:23:50 -0800 From: Rory Goodwin To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re:" Brick " Camouflage Message-ID: <3C7B1BE6.2793ABC9@earthlink.net> Despite the fact that you're all out to bust my fun, this does not diminish my interest in early Albatrosen. :-9...it just means an easier scheme. Shane Weier wrote: > Lance says: > > > Munson's books are the only place I've ever seen these > > markings, or any > > hint of anything like them. > > Ditto. I always thought that the Munson books just suffered from paintings > with extrememly poorly represented lozenge. > > Shane > > ********************************************************************** > The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is > intended only for the use of the addressee(s). > If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or > copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to > forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the > MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. > > For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 > Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au > Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 > International ++61 7 38338042 > ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 23:24:19 -0600 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: silence Message-ID: <3C7B1C03.3E95090D@x25.net> Received here without MIME. Loud and clear as well as concise. Lee M. New Braunfels, Tx CoolSpadLuke@aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:44:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, "David C. Fletcher" writes: > > >(snip) > > > > Would someone please confirm that MIME is turned off and that I'm not > > transmitting in HTML. I'm still trying to find all the right buttons to > > push. > > > > Great visit with RK and 'Cia' (sp?) down in the wilds of Southern California > > and we had an enjoyable time with Dame Karen in Wheeling, WV - we Fletchers > > do get around. > > You keep good company, though. > > Your message looks good to me. > > Mike Kavanaugh ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:28:31 +0100 From: a.casirati@cornali-trasporti.it To: Subject: R: Nie. 17's, decals, etc. Message-ID: <43EB244779F3D411966E0060082C59E90F0561@SERVER1> Sorry, Warren, but I have never used Future. I seal decals simply by spraying on a light coat of acrylic MisterKit satin varnish. Ciao, Alberto Casirati -----Messaggio originale----- Da: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]Per conto di ibs4421 Inviato: lunedì 25 febbraio 2002 19.24 A: Multiple recipients of list Oggetto: [WWI] Nie. 17's, decals, etc. > Don't feel intimidated. Matt is a bully sometimes and he always uses dirty > tricks to deceipt good people, like that of the Sopwith 1 1/2 strutter. Nah, it was for my betterment, to build my OT-building character I suppose. he has been a big help with lots of encouragement. > There's several methods to do this, but I found that painted decal tapes > coated with enamel paint or primer are a good method. Alberto uses stretched > styrene strips glued with varnish, and their models always look great! What type of varnish? I believe Matt told me Alberto used Future to secure them. Is that so Alberto? All y'all list members please feel free to chime in on this. I'm wide open to suggestions. . 1/72nd Nie. 17 decals are not exactly > > jumping out at me. > > Maybe Bob Pearson can have the solution to to your needs! ;-) > D. Well yes. I do hope I can convince him to include the serials and roundels with some of the decals I have ordered from him. Right now, I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of several CD's from Bob P. "The Pusher Man". After that, I will send him my payment for the decals. I am in the process of running a revolving monthly account with him. NEW LIST MEMBERS BEWARE!!!!!!!!! Corresponding with Bob Pearson can lead to addictive OT buying behavior for CD's decals, etc. I now have a Canadian monkey on my back. When I came to this list I was almost "normal". Not now! This is a bad, bad crowd to hang with. I now wander around the house looking for ot stuff I can sell to finance my OT habit. Bob Pearson is but a small part of this "addiction". Warren --- [Questa mail e' stata controllata dai software antivirus e antispamming di Planet Service srl - www.planetservice.biz ] --- [Questa mail e' stata controllata dai software antivirus e antispamming di Planet Service srl - www.planetservice.biz ] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 00:10:22 -0800 From: "Mike Franklin" To: Subject: CO2 set-up - a warning Message-ID: <000b01c1be9d$0aa1bfc0$6eedfc9e@picker> Very Important - - - You must chain the tank to a firm support. If the tank were to fall and break the regulator head off, it will kill everybody in the room, and probably everyone in the house. This is not a joke. Mike Franklin Bellingham, WA USA "No man is so hated as he who will drive the speed limit" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 07:25:24 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Adrian Helmet Message-ID: <014101c1beaf$e75a65e0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi Peter! Yes, WWI helmets were made of a finer gauge in 4 pieces (crown+2 part rim+crest) without including the badge, that changed with the specialisation of the unit or if the helmet was worn by soldiers of other country (as Russia or Belgium). Here's a french WW1 helmet http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1076301694 And here's a WW2 model, that has just 2 pieces: body+crest It is also made in a thicker steel gauge http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1075967820 Italians had their own version of this helmet that is slightly different. HTH D. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 4:29 PM Subject: [WWI] Adrian Helmet > No, Adrian Helmet is not a new listee, this is one for the figure modelers. > Is there any way of telling the difference between French steel helmets of > WWI and WW2 issue? > > cheers > > Peter L > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 06:03:00 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: <003901c1beb5$27a27200$0fe82341@tampabay.rr.com> There seem to be two major pitfalls concerning the St. Harry method of wing building. I appear to have fallen headlong down both of them. The first and most obvious is that the embossing of the skins must be perfect, a single slip of the tool and you get to start over. After several successful wings, completed with no problems, I am on my third skin for a D.VII lower wing. Total focus and concentration on the task at hand is the only way to avoid this one. The less obvious pit is the sealing of the trailing edge. The slightest misapplication of liquid cement and you ruin the whole thing at the last step. Too much cement will obviously melt the whole edge, but even more insidious is that the smallest drop of cement that doesn't make it in between the plastic and runs on the surface will also ruin the whole thing. Here the best way to to avert disaster is to work on only an inch of seam at a time. Use a very small brush so only a little cement is applied at a time. That isn't enough however, the brush must be pointed. This is critical as you can only apply the cement to the seam. a less than pointed brush makes it likely you will get some outside the seam and on the surfaces of the wing. St. H does warn of this in his understated way. Take himn seriously. At least I can use the wood core over again ;-) sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 12:29:41 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: The first pitfall is very true, total concentration is necessary, I stop breathing till I finish! The second pitfall is easily solved, use CA, I've rarely managed to do it with liquid cement as St.Harry suggests. I believe that he would have suggested CA himself, if it had been available when he wrote the book. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 12:31:32 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: ot models Message-ID: Yes please > -----Original Message----- > From: Diego Fernetti [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar] > Sent: den 25 februari 2002 18:05 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] ot models > > > Who wants to see a few of Derek Brown's models? > Contact me off list to dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar > They're great! > D. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 06:33:19 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: <004101c1beb9$63b1abe0$0fe82341@tampabay.rr.com> > The first pitfall is very true, total concentration is necessary, > I stop breathing till I finish! > > The second pitfall is easily solved, use CA, I've rarely managed > to do it with liquid cement as St.Harry suggests. I believe that > he would have suggested CA himself, if it had been available when > he wrote the book. > /Neil C. I'll give it a try. sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 12:32:59 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: French machine contest Message-ID: > Dave > > (Who is thinking on some ot entries for this as well - RFC > BreXIX, Dewotine > 510, RN Dauphin helo - is my modelling too focussed ?) Dewoitine 510 in british markings? Is this possible! /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 06:33:32 EST From: PetersList@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Adrian Helmet Message-ID: <171.9714d0f.29accc8c@aol.com> In a message dated 26/02/02 10:26:30 GMT Standard Time, dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar writes: << HTH >> Sure does. Thanks a heap Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 12:34:17 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: You can use tape to protect the wing-surfaces. /Neil C. > -----Original Message----- > From: Steven Perry [mailto:sperry03@tampabay.rr.com] > Sent: den 26 februari 2002 12:33 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] RE: The St. Harry wing gamble > > > > > The first pitfall is very true, total concentration is necessary, > > I stop breathing till I finish! > > > > The second pitfall is easily solved, use CA, I've rarely managed > > to do it with liquid cement as St.Harry suggests. I believe that > > he would have suggested CA himself, if it had been available when > > he wrote the book. > > /Neil C. > > I'll give it a try. > sp > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 06:39:50 EST From: PetersList@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: <195.2dfae0c.29acce06@aol.com> In a message dated 26/02/02 11:04:44 GMT Standard Time, sperry03@tampabay.rr.com writes: << The first and most obvious is that the embossing of the skins must be perfect, a single slip of the tool and you get to start over. >> Yup, that's the general idea ;) So have to taken a fundementalist line and gone with the wooden core, or are straying from the one true path ? << Take himn (St Harry) seriously.>> shouldn't that be take Hymn seriously? cheers Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 06:47:45 EST From: PetersList@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: <163.96d6b45.29accfe1@aol.com> In a message dated 26/02/02 11:41:16 GMT Standard Time, PetersList@aol.com writes: << gone with the wooden core >> As soon as I pressed the tit to send I realised; "hang on! He says wood right here" Sorry. You'll find trailing edges and tips a lot less trouble with a plastic core. The skin is stuck to the core rather than to itself and so can take more cement (though you still have to take it easy) and the end result is easier to sand and refine because it behave just like a solid lump of plastic. cheers Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 12:31:04 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: SAMI CSM MoSA-AI Message-ID: However, if the Wildcat article is as > slip-shod as > the Morane article, I could only look at it with suspicion. > > Warren > Are you calling Matts article slip-shod! ;-) /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:50:32 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Adrian Helmet Message-ID: <01cf01c1bebb$cd469000$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Glad to be useful, Peter! D. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 8:34 AM Subject: [WWI] RE: Adrian Helmet > In a message dated 26/02/02 10:26:30 GMT Standard Time, > dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar writes: > > << HTH >> > Sure does. Thanks a heap > > Peter L > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:59:45 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: <01e901c1bebd$1593f900$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi Steve Try with CA glue. Works like a charm. Speaking of scored styrene... I've tried without success to make a turtledeck from scored styrene for the Hanriot, but it must have the ribbing endings away from the front extreme. How to do this? Has anyone tried? D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Steven Perry To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 8:32 AM Subject: [WWI] RE: The St. Harry wing gamble > > > The first pitfall is very true, total concentration is necessary, > > I stop breathing till I finish! > > > > The second pitfall is easily solved, use CA, I've rarely managed > > to do it with liquid cement as St.Harry suggests. I believe that > > he would have suggested CA himself, if it had been available when > > he wrote the book. > > /Neil C. > > I'll give it a try. > sp > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 09:03:00 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: silence Message-ID: <021301c1bebd$895f38e0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Welcome back, traveler! How's the 1:1 model? D. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:06:26 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: > > Hi Steve > Try with CA glue. Works like a charm. > Speaking of scored styrene... I've tried without success to make a > turtledeck from scored styrene for the Hanriot, but it must > have the ribbing > endings away from the front extreme. How to do this? Has anyone tried? > D. Just start scoring at the ribbing ends. Don't press extra hard when you start scoring. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 09:44:37 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: "ww1 list" Subject: avro 504 Message-ID: <027601c1bec3$5a0a2900$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hey Ross (and other avro fans) check this restoration http://www.hawker-restorations-ltd.co.uk/Avro.html http://www.hawker-restorations-ltd.co.uk/Avro504k.html D. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 23:53:43 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: avro 504 Message-ID: <003501c1bec4$9f45be20$76492dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> Wow great find there mate. Cheers. This will help once I get back to the larger 504. ;-) Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Diego Fernetti" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 11:46 PM Subject: [WWI] avro 504 > Hey Ross > (and other avro fans) > check this restoration > http://www.hawker-restorations-ltd.co.uk/Avro.html > http://www.hawker-restorations-ltd.co.uk/Avro504k.html > > D. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:15:21 -0500 From: Balzer Mr Gregory P To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Airbrush qn Message-ID: <47637867E285D5118FAE00B0D0D1C9760169D10A@TECOM03E> Sanjeev, I will try and run home over lunch and take a digi photo of my rig. It is a two stage. First part gauges internal tank pressure, the second one regulates output pressure, which is controlled by a adjustment screw located in the middle. Go to this link. It has photos and prices. http://www.kegworld.com/regulato.htm Greg -----Original Message----- From: ot811 [mailto:ot811@myrealbox.com] Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 9:46 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Re: Airbrush qn Lee, Thanks for the opinion on the airbrush. A lot of list members recommended the same brush. I went ahead and ordered it : usd 42.00 for a 3-tip set at a place called Dixie arts. One more qn about the CO2 contraption. The regulator I need is a single-stage or a double stage? All the places I inquired suggested that I needed single stage. Thanks again for your patient and thorough answers. SSH ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:22:02 -0500 From: Balzer Mr Gregory P To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: CO2 set-up - a warning Message-ID: <47637867E285D5118FAE00B0D0D1C9760169D10B@TECOM03E> Mike, I got my tank from a very good friend who is a welder. Mine has a very large plastic protective cone around the top, which also serves as a handle. It looks similar to what you put around your dog's neck after they've had surgery. The whole purpose is to protect the neck of the tank. Thus no need for wild contraptions to secure your tank to the wall. If your tank has an exposed neck, your advice is mandatory, because in essence what you'd have if the neck broke off is a small ballistic missile. Thanks for the advice. Greg -----Original Message----- From: Mike Franklin [mailto:modelhound@earthlink.net] Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 3:12 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] CO2 set-up - a warning Very Important - - - You must chain the tank to a firm support. If the tank were to fall and break the regulator head off, it will kill everybody in the room, and probably everyone in the house. This is not a joke. Mike Franklin Bellingham, WA USA "No man is so hated as he who will drive the speed limit" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:29:08 -0500 (EST) From: tbittners@sprintmail.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: FW: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: <20020226132908.D492A468CB@eclipse.qis.net> >Speaking of scored styrene... I've tried without success to make >a >turtledeck from scored styrene for the Hanriot, but it must have >the ribbing >endings away from the front extreme. How to do this? Has anyone >tried? One thing I tried on the Amodel SPAD was to sand the area in the front where the "new" turtledeck will go. In other words, sand where the front of the "stringers" will be so you don't have a step to worry about dealing with via the "new" turtledeck. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:31:32 -0500 (EST) From: tbittners@sprintmail.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Model Expo Albatros build Message-ID: <20020226133132.87554468CB@eclipse.qis.net> This was posted at The Aerodrome. Someone is building the large 1/16th (?) Albatros D.V put out by Model Expo, and is showing his progress on the web: http://restorationschool.tripod.com/albatrosonlinebuild/ Maybe someone should tell him about the cook up site? Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 10:34:25 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: FW: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: <02de01c1beca$4f06c700$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Matt! > One thing I tried on the Amodel SPAD was to sand the area in the front where the "new" turtledeck will go. In other words, sand where the front of the "stringers" will be so you don't have a step to worry about dealing with via the "new" turtledeck. I used a 5 thou styrene, I'm afraid that I'll sand thru it!. Maybe I should back that part with solid plastic or milliput... ideas.. ideas.. D. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:33:26 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: FW: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: > One thing I tried on the Amodel SPAD was to sand the area in > the front where the "new" turtledeck will go. In other > words, sand where the front of the "stringers" will be so you > don't have a step to worry about dealing with via the "new" > turtledeck. > > > Matt Bittner > Another thing I noticed on the Spad 12, is that I should have scored harder on the turtleback. After the 5-colour went on, all the stringer detail disappeared. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 10:37:40 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: FW: RE: The St. Harry wing gamble Message-ID: <02f601c1beca$c3046180$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> > Another thing I noticed on the Spad 12, is that I should have scored > harder on the turtleback. After the 5-colour went on, all the stringer > detail disappeared. Maybe I should choose a camouflaged Hanriot instead of a aluminium doped one! :-) D. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:48:03 -0500 From: "Michael Robinson" To: Subject: Re: Model Expo Albatros build Message-ID: <000801c1becc$373dfe20$d87bbfa8@default> Thanks Matt. I have one in progress too. My plans are to cover one half and leave the other half exposed... weather it comes to that or not remains to be seen. I also have Hasegawa's 1/8 scale Sopwith I intend to do the same with. I'll have to check it out. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 8:33 AM Subject: [WWI] Model Expo Albatros build This was posted at The Aerodrome. Someone is building the large 1/16th (?) Albatros D.V put out by Model Expo, and is showing his progress on the web: http://restorationschool.tripod.com/albatrosonlinebuild/ Maybe someone should tell him about the cook up site? Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:44:01 -0500 From: plesha3@comcast.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: bad e-mail service Message-ID: <000901c1becb$a603f400$ae913c44@macmb101.mi.comcast.net> Hi All- Sorry for the general post- If anyone on the list has sent e-mail and I have not responded it is because Comcast strikes again! I, apparantly, am not receiving any e-mails. Hopefully, Later Tom ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:16:31 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: RE: CO2 set-up - a warning Message-ID: <008301c1bed0$30eb8160$7b3dfad1@dwfjv01> Listers, I had thought to do something similar to this, but using SCUBA airtanks. My sis-n-law and her husband run a SCUBA business on the side, which includes filling up air tanks. Her husband told me that he has tanks that he has to take out of service for one reason or another, but are still perfectly safe for holding nice, really dry air. Many on another type of modeling list have advised against this, citing safety reasons. I personally don't see anything more unsafe about this than with a tank of CO2. I ended up purchasing a small compressor and a set of airbrushes on looney-bay last year for a decent price. We'll see how that works out. Warren ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 09:16:05 -0500 From: "ot811" To: Subject: RE: Fe2b prop Message-ID: <006b01c1bed0$26f3a020$0800010a@cyberelan.com> Just to report on what worked. I used a bent rat-tail riffler file (or atleast I guess that's its name). I created the cavity/concavity at the base of the blade by firmly rubbing it sideways with the curve of the bend in the file. By sideways, I mean the motion was normal to the axis of the file. regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 09:18:09 -0500 (EST) From: ÅwÁâ°ê»ÚªÑ¥÷¦³­­¤½¥q To: all-01., all-02, all-03 Subject: =?big5?Q?=BCx=A4~: =A7=DA=AD=CC=ACO=BA=D6=A7Q=AB=D8=A5=FE=ABO=BB=D9=A6~=C1~14=AD=D3=A4=EB=AA=BA=A4=BD=A5q?= Message-ID: ®¥¶P·sÁH! --------------------------- °¨¦~·s®ð¶H!ÅwÁâ°ê»ÚªÑ¥÷¦³­­¤½¥q ·s¦~«×ÂX¤j¼x¤~ --------------------------------- ¤½¥q²¤¶: ¥»¤½¥q¬°89¦~«×°ê¶T§½»{ÃÒ¤§¹q¸£¶i¥X¤fÁZÀu¶T©ö¤½¥q ¦~Àç·~ÃB22»õ ºÖ§Q«Ø¥þ «O»Ù¦~Á~14­Ó¤ë ----------------------------------------- ¼x¨D: 1.°ê¶T±M­û 2.°]°È±M­û 3.¬ü½s±M­û 4.¦æ¬F±M­û 5.½Ķ±M­û 6.µ{¦¡³]­p 7.¯S§O§U²z 8.¾n¤é¥Nªí (­­¤é¥»Äy) 9.¾n¬ü¥Nªí (­­¬ü°êÄy) 9.¾n´ä¥Nªí (­­­»´äÄy) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ¥H¤W¤H­û¶·²¤¸gÅç.¨k¤k¤£©ë.±M¤W¾Ç¾ú. ½Ð±N.¾ú.·Ó.¶Ç (¯Ê¤@¤£¿ý¨ú) ±HÁ`¤½¥q ¥x¥_¿¤¦Á¤î¥«¤j¦P¸ô2¬q163¸¹7¼Ó Á¤p©j¦¬ ©Î¹q¤l¶l¥ópowerleecoltd@yam.com ¤W¯Z¦aÂI:¥x¥_¥« ¦Á¤î ·s¦Ë ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:50:32 -0600 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: CO2 set-up - a warning Message-ID: <3C7BA0B8.82C926F7@x25.net> Warren, There is one very large, and important, difference between an air bottle and a CO2 cylinder. The air tank can be filled by almost anyone that can make it to a Gas Station. A CO2 bottle will be filled by a proffessional who will "demand compliance with State Law" that means the tank will be High Pressure Water Tank tested at least once every ten years. An air tank is rarely tested for over prssure. They are a lot thinner metal than a CO2 tank. I have not heard of any accidents with CO2 bottles except when one fell off the back end of a truck. Lee M. New Braunfels, TX ibs4421 wrote: > > Listers, > I had thought to do something similar to this, but using SCUBA > airtanks. My sis-n-law and her husband run a SCUBA business on the side, > which includes filling up air tanks. Her husband told me that he has tanks > that he has to take out of service for one reason or another, but are still > perfectly safe for holding nice, really dry air. Many on another type of > modeling list have advised against this, citing safety reasons. I > personally don't see anything more unsafe about this than with a tank of > CO2. > I ended up purchasing a small compressor and a set of airbrushes on > looney-bay last year for a decent price. We'll see how that works out. > > Warren ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 09:04:58 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: RE: CO2 set-up - a warning Message-ID: <00ba01c1bed6$f623baa0$7b3dfad1@dwfjv01> Lee, A SCUBA tank is extremely thick-walled, especially for its size. Ever pick one up and put it on your back? My sis-n-law's husband had to go to school and get certification for filling scuba tanks, he is also a licensed inspector. That is why he has to take some out of circulation from time to time. He tells me that some get kicked out of the system not for safety reasons per se, but because the air within is going to be used for human consumption. Some, he tells me, would be fine for holding air for years to come, but just not good enough for breathing directly in your lungs underwater. He is extremely anal when it comes to safety in this regard, for his entire reputation in on the line, knowing that someone's life depends entirely on his attention to detail. BTW, someone on a model railroading list told me that he leased his CO2 tank, and that all he has to do is give the company a call, and they come to his house to exchange the empty tank for a full one. Very convenient, and worth asking about IMHO. Warren ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee M." To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 8:48 AM Subject: [WWI] RE: CO2 set-up - a warning > Warren, There is one very large, and important, difference between an > air bottle and a CO2 cylinder. > > The air tank can be filled by almost anyone that can make it to a Gas > Station. > > A CO2 bottle will be filled by a proffessional who will "demand > compliance with State Law" that means the tank will be High Pressure > Water Tank tested at least once every ten years. > > An air tank is rarely tested for over prssure. They are a lot thinner > metal than a CO2 tank. > > I have not heard of any accidents with CO2 bottles except when one fell > off the back end of a truck. > > Lee M. > New Braunfels, TX > > ibs4421 wrote: > > > > Listers, > > I had thought to do something similar to this, but using SCUBA > > airtanks. My sis-n-law and her husband run a SCUBA business on the side, > > which includes filling up air tanks. Her husband told me that he has tanks > > that he has to take out of service for one reason or another, but are still > > perfectly safe for holding nice, really dry air. Many on another type of > > modeling list have advised against this, citing safety reasons. I > > personally don't see anything more unsafe about this than with a tank of > > CO2. > > I ended up purchasing a small compressor and a set of airbrushes on > > looney-bay last year for a decent price. We'll see how that works out. > > > > Warren > > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4215 **********************