WWI Digest 4180 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Roland C.II Cockpit Images by "Ross Moorhouse" 2) Re: Photos - was Voisin type 3 LAS and Farman MF.11/ 1/48 by Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au 3) RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... by "Michael and Sharon Alvarado, NSWCC" 4) Re: R: Re: Does size matter ??? ... by Shane Weier 5) RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... by Shane Weier 6) Re: Luftstreitkraefte by "robert owens" 7) RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... by "Bob Pearson" 8) Re: Tissue covering by "Michael and Sharon Alvarado, NSWCC" 9) RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... by "Ross Moorhouse" 10) Re: Tissue covering by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 11) Roland C11 Cockpit Images by "Charlie and Linda Duckworth" 12) RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 13) RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... by "Ross Moorhouse" 14) At least it's a biplane... ( slightly OT?) by "robert owens" 15) RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... by Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au 16) Re: At least it's a biplane... ( slightly OT?) by Al Superczynski 17) Re: Impregnated Tissue covering by "robert owens" 18) Re: Impregnated Tissue covering by "Ross Moorhouse" 19) Re: At least it's a biplane... ( slightly OT?) by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 20) Re: Tissue covering by "Thomas Solinski" 21) Need Airfix AVRO 504 by "robert owens" 22) Re: Need Airfix AVRO 504 by Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au 23) Re: Need Airfix AVRO 504 by "Ross Moorhouse" 24) Re: Tissue covering by "Lee M." 25) Re: Need Airfix AVRO 504 by "rbilak" 26) RE: In awe by c.o.goebel@att.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 09:30:32 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Roland C.II Cockpit Images Message-ID: <007d01c1b5a7$37895ec0$76492dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> Now its my turn to follow this one with interest. I would paint the insides in a grey colour and the formers in wood. This might be of interest ... http://pmms.webace.com.au/ww1/ed8040.htm Cheers Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Shannon" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 8:51 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: Roland C.II Cockpit Images > I think the general understanding on this list, and I may be misremembering, is that Roland interiors were painted in many areas like the sides and bulkheads, though not necessarily on instrument panels and stringers. > > The argument is something along the lines of: > > Pfalz painted the interior of the D.VIII, and probably the D.III series because we have a surviving example of the one and interior photos of the others show a suspicious lack of graining effects and variations. > > Pfalz learned their techniques and cut their aircraft building teeth on licensed Moranes and Rolands. > > Therefore, it is logical to suggest that Roland procedures were similar to what Pfalz picked up on, for the Wicklerumpf structure, even though we don't have any surviving C.II's. > > And Dicta Ira applies. Personally, I'm always torn because I like the contrast of a painted exterior and a 'wood paneled' interior, but I like to be as accurate as I can make them and incorporate the research. > > .Mark. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 09:42:56 +1000 From: Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Photos - was Voisin type 3 LAS and Farman MF.11/ 1/48 Message-ID: Hi All; I agree with Ross, post 'm all. However if a priority has to be made then, given the lack of available good quality pictures of the Vickers Vimy on the Web, I think the Vimy pictures should be posted. Also the Hanover, for similar reasons. Whilst we tend to use Datafiles, we should remember that there are many out there who dont. All the Best Neil E _________________________________________________________________________________ This email contains confidential information intended only for the person named above and may be subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying or use of this information is prohibited. The Department provides no guarantee that this communication is free of virus or that it has not been intercepted or interfered with. If you have received this email in error or have any other concerns regarding its transmission, please notify Postmaster@dhs.vic.gov.au _________________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 17:43:00 -0500 From: "Michael and Sharon Alvarado, NSWCC" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... Message-ID: <3C6C3D73.95EDA539@verizon.net> Foot treadle speed controls work only on single speed Dremels. Otherwise you run the risk of burning out the stepper motor. I have a foot treadle (Model 221 type 2)hooked up to a single speed Dremel tool (Model 275 type 5) which works just fine. bear in mind , however, that Dremel tool heads are designed to work at high speed so you want to run as fast the material being machined will tolerate. Alvie Crawford Neil wrote: > Good question! No and rather a sore point, my Dremel Multi ( think its called) > cost $90 and has only 6 speeds, I nearly always run on the slowest. > I asked this question on list last year, and Lance suggested a foot-control, > so I negotiated a foot-control for christmas (I negotiate ahead, I'm at > christmas 2005 now), and got a guarded approval. So off to our local purveyors > neither had one, and the one who seemed to know a little more than his own > name, said that it wouldn't lower the revs on the lowest setting. So I got > stuck and will use the money on kits and book as usual, > there is always christmas 2006! > /Neil C. > > > Hmmm... This hobby costs more and more every day. > > > > Never having owned a Dremel can you vary the speed right down > > so its real > > slow? > > > > Ross > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:46:49 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: R: Re: Does size matter ??? ... Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCDBE4@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Diego says: > Consider this: You live in Sweden! Australia and Argentina > have hot and wet > weather in summer. I keep the CA glue in the fridge from > november to march! FWIW about 75% of Australia is desert - hot and dry as a bone in summer - and of the rest only the north has hot wet summers, the south has hot dry summers. Having said that I don't refrigerate my CyA and I've never, ever finished a bottle. I keep two types - thin and medium - and usually toss both out types because the tip gets too decrepit or blocks too often rather than failure of the glue. For around A$10 I can buy a bottle of both. They last about a year. Less per month than I pay each day for the newspaper, so I really can't get very enthusiastic about taking heroic measures to squeeze out the last drop..... Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:56:41 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCDBE5@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Ross, > Interesting that you still have the one your parents gave you > way back. I take it that one is a good German one.? > > Yet Dremel are the ones you see advertised as being the tool > we should have. You must be the marketers dream. Someone who thinks advertising is truth. FWIW my motor tool is a Precision Petite unit (from France) that I've had for 28 years. It'll run off a torch battery, but I connect it to a variable DC power supply I designed for the purpose and made myself (I was at Uni at the time, used the lab to etch my circuit board and everything) Not nearly as powerfull as a Dremel, but it's way better to use on styrene and still has guts enough to mill aluminium, white metal and brass. I pray for its continued good health Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 17:18:45 -0600 From: "robert owens" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Luftstreitkraefte Message-ID: Hans, Is harkening back to WWI (i.e. "non-fascist") the reason the DDR chose "Luftstreitkraefte" vice "Luftwaffe?" I've always found it curious that both the DDR and the Bundesrepublik adopted "Honorific" titles for their units, which seems to me to have been almost a recognition by two air forces of their common roots: brave men and great pilots, regardless of politics. _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 15:31:29 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... Message-ID: <101372963901@smtp.vphos.net> > FWIW my motor tool is a Precision Petite unit (from France) that I've had > for 28 years. It'll run off a torch battery, but I connect it to a variable > DC power supply I designed for the purpose and made myself (I was at Uni at > the time, used the lab to etch my circuit board and everything) I as looking at ads for that in old Airfix magazines the other day. My (ot) high school electronics project was a guitar amplifier.. too bad I didn't know about etching model parts back when I had handy access to all the chemicals... suppose it is good as all i need is another project. Bob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 18:41:31 -0500 From: "Michael and Sharon Alvarado, NSWCC" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Tissue covering Message-ID: <3C6C4B2A.CFE9C6AF@verizon.net> One of the adhesives used to attach covering silkspan/japanese tissue in bygone days (like when Lee M. was a tyke) ;^P was banana oil. Truly sticky adhesive stuff. I bet it would stick to a soldered brass frame quite nicely. Don't know how permanent it would be though. Alvie "Lee M." wrote: > Many local Hobby Shops that sell flying model particlarly if they handle > "Peanut Scale". > > Those are quite "Teeny Weenies" that fly indoors like in gymnasiums. > > Call the ones in your Yellow pages and they will know. I do not have > any of the newer flying model Mags on hand or I wouild look up a few. > Those like Model Airplane News and Flying Models should have a number of > shops advertising in them. One could be nearby. > > Silkspan can really pull hard and it is tough stuff. It may work well > if you do not intent to fly the thing. But, it gets really taut. The > pressure has to be seen to believe in it but it can almost be beaten > like a drum. It is used in a lot of large scale RC models. It has been > a favorite for years. > > If the worst come around I may be able to find some tissue In San > Antonio at one or two shops with heavy RC and flying stuff. > > A small amount of Tissue, or, Silkspan could be sent in an envelope for > very reasonable postage charges and the cost should be quite low. Let > me know what you have in mind. I will at the very least check on it for > you. > > I think they may sell a Square yard but I will have to check. Silk span > would work on a soldered metal frame. Making it stick, to it, could be > a chore but I doubt it. > > Guillow used a good grade of tissue for the rubber drive models. The > tissue is moderately stron after the paint/Dope finish is applied. They > may have new stuff I am not familiar with but again, I can ask and they > will tell me. > > I just gave one of the shops my mint RC Modeler magazines that were all > more than 4 years. > > I quit fooling with them as the prices went up. But I got the mags for > a very long subscription period after that. Then had them around since. > Gave them all away in January. > > I do live 35 miles from town but I go quite often to various club > meetings and classes. SIGs on computer stuff like CD burning, Advanced > Internet, photo and Genealogy stuff. So I get close to both of the best > ones. > > ot811 wrote: > > > > Lee, > > Thanks for the reply. A few clarifications: > > > depoend a bit on the size of the model. > > The fuselage is mostly a rectangular tube, 1 inch on each side, about > > 4-5inches long > > > > > > Tissue is perhaps best used with smaller models since the pull of the > > > shrinking material is less likely to damage the airframe. > > --- Do you mean japanese tissue? Damage to frame is not a problem, as it > > will be soldered brass frame. > > Where can I get japanese tissue, and silkspan? Is that the stuff they use > > for covering Guillow balsa planes? > > regards > > SSH ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 11:08:15 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... Message-ID: <009f01c1b5b4$dd6af6c0$76492dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> LOL.. I am far from a marketers dream mate. I really hate ads. I was just putting across that we see adds in glossy model mags for things like Dremel more than anyone else's tools like this. But this raises the question as to how many tools people own that are marketed at model makers? Or do people use what they can find? I know I use whatever is at hand. Or if I can find a cheaper alternative. So when it comes to a Dremel I think I would look around for something that does the job but is so much cheaper. Maybe the old hand drill will do. Slow and very unsteady.. ;-) Cheers Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shane Weier" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 9:58 AM Subject: [WWI] RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... > Ross, > > > Interesting that you still have the one your parents gave you > > way back. I take it that one is a good German one.? > > > > Yet Dremel are the ones you see advertised as being the tool > > we should have. > > You must be the marketers dream. Someone who thinks advertising is truth. > > FWIW my motor tool is a Precision Petite unit (from France) that I've had > for 28 years. It'll run off a torch battery, but I connect it to a variable > DC power supply I designed for the purpose and made myself (I was at Uni at > the time, used the lab to etch my circuit board and everything) > > Not nearly as powerfull as a Dremel, but it's way better to use on styrene > and still has guts enough to mill aluminium, white metal and brass. I pray > for its continued good health > > Shane > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ********************************************************************** > The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is > intended only for the use of the addressee(s). > If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or > copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to > forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the > MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. > > For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 > Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au > Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 > International ++61 7 38338042 > ********************************************************************** > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:14:12 EST From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: Re: Tissue covering Message-ID: <7c.22f3abce.299dacd5@aol.com> Hi Jim, Since no one else has addressed this yet, I'll try and other listees' experiences and opinions may certainly differ. It's been a long time since I've done this sort of thing. I covered flying models with silkspan from the early '50s thru about 1965. As described in an earlier msg, the clear dope method worked for me. In my case, I used the dope more to prepare the wooden surfaces and to adhere the silkspan fabric to the skeleton pieces of the kit. Often, I dampened the silkspan before doping it to the skeleton surfaces of the wing, etc. Then, after dried, I would dope the entire surface. In this way, there was no difference in the surface, tension or texture-wise, between where the silkspan attached to wing ribs, etc. and that covering the open areas. It seems to me that if you use diluted white glue or the such to attach Japanese tissue or silkspan to a frame, the texture of the covering where it touches the frame will be significantly different from that untreated fabric covering the open areas. Also, I think changes in humidity and temperature would allow wrinkles to develop on unfinished fabric of the finished model. I'm still soul-searching on how I can cover the undersides of the highly-cambered Avro triplane wings I'm working on and avoid these same problems. A few members have made suggestions, but nothing yet has brilliantly emerged, saying, "Yes!!!, this is the way." It's not a subject usually encountered on the list. From what I've seen in the RC hobbyshops, modern coverings are Monokote or the like, adhered and shrunk using heat. FWIW and HTH, Mike Kavanaugh In a message dated Thu, 14 Feb 2002 4:39:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, James Hudson writes: > Tissue is perhaps best used with smaller models since the pull of the shrinking material is less likely to damage the airframe. > > Aren't we talking about a static model here? I've never used tissue on a model before so correct me if I don't make sense here. But if the model is not a flying model, and you want to use tissue for the appearance it gives to the model or for its ease in application, do you need to put any dope on it? Isn't the dope the stuff you put on the tissue to get it to shrink? > So if the model is not going to fly why can't you just apply the tissue as taut as you can by hand without damaging the airframe and go with that? > > Jim Hudson ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 18:39:56 -0600 From: "Charlie and Linda Duckworth" To: "wwi-faq" Subject: Roland C11 Cockpit Images Message-ID: <004d01c1b5b9$4c1c8800$2d32b9cc@unionrai> Listees, what do you think about pale blue insides? Once upon a time I thought that Pfalz a/c were painted only outside, but I learned that they were silver or grey also inside. What's about Rolands? Of course there is the need for any protective cover, but is there any need to pigment it? And what's about a Roland D II fighter? Hans I agree....I'm building both the HiTech DII and Eduard CII (since the interior reference material in the CII DF should help with interior detailing on the DII). In looking at the various CII interior shots I also think the interior walls were painted the same as the exterior. Pale blue and have finished both in this manner. I then added some white to the pale blue and dabbed some light color along the interior seams so one can see the wrapped wood. One can also see some unpainted wood where instruments and parts were added later after painting Charlie ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:42:40 EST From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... Message-ID: <17d.39bd114.299db381@aol.com> In a message dated Thu, 14 Feb 2002 7:07:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Ross Moorhouse" writes: Maybe the old hand drill will do. Slow > and very unsteady.. ;-) I've not commented previously, although I have both the variable speed dremel and the smaller battery powered one. They are both fine but I don't use them as much as I thought I would when I bought them. I'm so ham-fisted that if I use them to grind away on the inside of a fuselage, I'm most likely to go through the side. I guess I don't control them very well. . . everything's fine until whatever type bit I'm using catches on something and takes off on its own. I use files a lot, big and small. I like curved riffler types to eliminate ejection marks and the such inside fuselages. My pin vises are my best friend when it comes to drilling small holes. My accuracy is much better manually than with power. BTW, I noticed in the just received Micro Mark catalog, that a chuck for Dremel type tools is available to handle up (down?) to size 80 drill bits. At my manual rate of breakage, it's difficult. I can't imagine going powered with a size 80. FWIW, Mike Kavanaugh ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 11:56:44 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... Message-ID: <00e701c1b5bb$a3110d00$76492dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> Well being very ham fisted myself I would hate to see the damage I could do to my body with a drill. I still have a big scar on one finger from a slip with a hobby knife when i was a teenager and had more time to build models. Ross.. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 11:45 AM Subject: [WWI] RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... > In a message dated Thu, 14 Feb 2002 7:07:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Ross Moorhouse" writes: > > Maybe the old hand drill will do. Slow > > and very unsteady.. ;-) > > I've not commented previously, although I have both the variable speed dremel and the smaller battery powered one. They are both fine but I don't use them as much as I thought I would when I bought them. I'm so ham-fisted that if I use them to grind away on the inside of a fuselage, I'm most likely to go through the side. I guess I don't control them very well. . . everything's fine until whatever type bit I'm using catches on something and takes off on its own. I use files a lot, big and small. I like curved riffler types to eliminate ejection marks and the such inside fuselages. My pin vises are my best friend when it comes to drilling small holes. My accuracy is much better manually than with power. BTW, I noticed in the just received Micro Mark catalog, that a chuck for Dremel type tools is available to handle up (down?) to size 80 drill bits. At my manual rate of breakage, it's difficult. I can't imagine going powered with a size 80. > > FWIW, > Mike Kavanaugh ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:05:15 -0600 From: "robert owens" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: At least it's a biplane... ( slightly OT?) Message-ID: Since I managed to step on my N.11 fuselage (don't even ask) this pm, I'm in need of a new project... anyone (especially Polish modelers) here have any photos/drawings/info on the Instytut Lotnictwa Lala-1? (picture the offspring of an Antonov An-2 mated with a Voisin) Two wings, two tails, two engines (one , a turbojet!) I've wanted to build it since I saw it in a 1968 edition of Jane's AWA. Hey, it would even be 1/72 scale(Italeri An-2)! And how do all you people work in 1/72 anyway??? (I'd need a microscope to tell if the model were an Albatros or a Pfalz). TIA, Rob _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 12:07:58 +1000 From: Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Making formers in 1/72nd scale... Message-ID: Hi All; Like Ross, I dont own a Dremel but have become an adept hand sander/driller/cutter. My Dremel is "my strong right arm" as the saying goes. I do want one however. I think the key to using any tool is having confidence in its use - the rest usually follows on from that. Funny though, I have been upgrading my tool range lately - got a Paasche H for Xmas, a cheap electric engraving tool also, but I'm finding I'm still using the older tools these replaced just as much, the old cheap Badger still gets a work out for single colour 'bulk' sprays and the Squadron hand engraving tool still gets a run. I guess its horses for courses. All the Best Neil E. _________________________________________________________________________________ This email contains confidential information intended only for the person named above and may be subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying or use of this information is prohibited. The Department provides no guarantee that this communication is free of virus or that it has not been intercepted or interfered with. If you have received this email in error or have any other concerns regarding its transmission, please notify Postmaster@dhs.vic.gov.au _________________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:12:04 -0600 From: Al Superczynski To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: At least it's a biplane... ( slightly OT?) Message-ID: On Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:07:27 -0500 (EST), Rob wrote: >...how do all you people work in 1/72 anyway... Very carefully. And slowly...... ;-p Al ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:15:09 -0600 From: "robert owens" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Impregnated Tissue covering Message-ID: The very idea of a fabric covering in scale thickness is intriguing... I've used thin superglue impregnated paper as a successful substitute for PE. Might it not work for tissue covering a styrene/brass airframe?? At least, it wouldn't involve HEAT (Monokote). Rob _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 12:24:28 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Impregnated Tissue covering Message-ID: <012c01c1b5bf$834b0f80$76492dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> Why not use something like Model Masters Clear Parts Cement to coat the tissue once its on the fuselage. It dosnt seem to shrink at all. HTH Cheers Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "robert owens" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 12:17 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Impregnated Tissue covering > > > > The very idea of a fabric covering in scale thickness is intriguing... I've > used thin superglue impregnated paper as a successful substitute for PE. > Might it not work for tissue covering a styrene/brass airframe?? At least, > it wouldn't involve HEAT (Monokote). Rob > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:25:56 EST From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: Re: At least it's a biplane... ( slightly OT?) Message-ID: Ah, there's the secret of the whole thing! Unless you are a Steve Hustad or Alberto Casirati, you can't really tell what you're working on. . . . . and it really doesn't make any difference because most people looking at it can't tell either. :-) Mike Kavanaugh In a message dated Thu, 14 Feb 2002 8:07:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, "robert owens" writes: And how do all you people work in 1/72 anyway??? (I'd need a microscope to tell if the model were an Albatros or a Pfalz). TIA, Rob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:30:34 -0600 From: "Thomas Solinski" To: Subject: Re: Tissue covering Message-ID: <01bc01c1b5c0$5f2fc900$9eb40c44@ok.cox.net> SSH, May I suggest the modern way of tissue covering. Since you are going to stick paper to brass this might work even better. Most avid peanunt flyers have abandonded dope for the attachment material infavor of a plain old office gluestick, found at office supply stores or sections. No stink good stick and no mess. As to tissue. Normally the tissue sold as colorful package stuffing at hallmark stores makes adequate covering for most models. It should work for your application and you can get it in tints close to CDL. Jap tissue the premier flying covering will work even better in that it conforms much more readily, but it comes only in bright white, so you'll need to tone it down some. The process. Cut some tissue large enough to cover the area in question with a 1/2inch over hang on all edges. Apply gluestick glue to that portion of the frame. lay the tissue on the glue, and starting in the middle of a short frame press it down and pull the edges tight. work your way around the frame till done. Let the glue dry trim the tissue flush with the frame with a new #11 blade or single edge razor. Repeat till done HTH tom ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:27:37 -0600 From: "robert owens" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Need Airfix AVRO 504 Message-ID: Anyone out there have an (Airfix)AVRO 504 he/she might want to part with for a reasonable price (I don't have anything to trade that you'ld probably want)? I've previously converted it to a Cierva C.6 Autogyro, and I'd like to do a C.8. TIA, Rob _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 13:35:54 +1000 From: Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Need Airfix AVRO 504 Message-ID: Hi Rob; If you can't get the Airfix...there is alwyas the newer A-Model release...comes in an AVRO 504 version, also available a Russian Soviet copy, coming soon one with skis and one with floats..... Otherwise try Kingkit in the UK. All the best Neil E _________________________________________________________________________________ This email contains confidential information intended only for the person named above and may be subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying or use of this information is prohibited. The Department provides no guarantee that this communication is free of virus or that it has not been intercepted or interfered with. If you have received this email in error or have any other concerns regarding its transmission, please notify Postmaster@dhs.vic.gov.au _________________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 13:38:35 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Need Airfix AVRO 504 Message-ID: <015601c1b5c9$e6c66460$76492dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> Can I suggest you buy one of the AModel 504s. Might be easier to get than the Airfix one. Cheers Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "robert owens" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 1:30 PM Subject: [WWI] Need Airfix AVRO 504 > > > > Anyone out there have an (Airfix)AVRO 504 he/she might want to part with for > a reasonable price (I don't have anything to trade that you'ld probably > want)? I've previously converted it to a Cierva C.6 Autogyro, and I'd like > to do a C.8. TIA, Rob > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:48:20 -0600 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Tissue covering Message-ID: <3C6C76F4.A5C70C0E@x25.net> That is the first place I plan on visiting. I know it is not expensive and easy to ship away from anyplace. haven't used any in years. Stopped making "peanut scale" in the late 70s'. Lee CoolSpadLuke@aol.com wrote: > > Lee, > > Jon's HobbyMasters on Broadway in S.A. carried Japanese tissue in several colors. He also sold and built, Peck Polymers, Guillows, etc. rubber-powered type kits and kept a pretty good supply on hand. I haven't been there in over a year but I'm pretty sure he still carries it. > > HTH, > Mike Kavanaugh ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 17:50:31 -0900 From: "rbilak" To: Subject: Re: Need Airfix AVRO 504 Message-ID: <001001c1b5cb$894259a0$6071ed18@bilak.micronet.net> Hi Rob, I have one, I'll part with contact me offlist Rick Bilak Anchorage, Alaska -----Original Message----- From: robert owens To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Thursday, February 14, 2002 5:31 PM Subject: [WWI] Need Airfix AVRO 504 > > > >Anyone out there have an (Airfix)AVRO 504 he/she might want to part with for >a reasonable price (I don't have anything to trade that you'ld probably >want)? I've previously converted it to a Cierva C.6 Autogyro, and I'd like >to do a C.8. TIA, Rob > >_________________________________________________________________ >Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. >http://www.hotmail.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 03:22:06 +0000 From: c.o.goebel@att.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: In awe Message-ID: <20020215032206.COBX557.mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net@webmail.worldnet.att.net> In the Nov-Dec 97 issue of Windsock there is a feature on a huge 1/48 diorama that he did of the 94th Aero Squadron resplendant with a Bessonneau hangar, eight Nie.28s, two Fiat trucks, a motorcycle, almost 60 figures and various and sundry other details too numerous to mention. IMHO - truly a masterpiece. C.O.Goebel > Michael, in awe: > > I just looked over Robert Karr's article on = > > scratchbuilding his Handley-Page 0/400. > > Ain't he a master? Follow the links elsewhere in the WW1 modelling site and > check his scratchbuilt Gotha at his own website. He's my favourite > scratchbuilder/artist on the list! And he never mentioned using a G-string! > D. > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4180 **********************