WWI Digest 4160 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. by David Fleming 2) Re: starightening brass struts by David Fleming 3) RE: starightening brass struts by "Gaston Graf" 4) Re: sci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. by David Fleming 5) Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. by "Ross Moorhouse" 6) Re: ExtraTech PE for Roden Gotha IV/V by Witold Kozakiewicz 7) SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone by Witold Kozakiewicz 8) Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. by Marc Flake 9) Re: starightening brass struts by "Michael Kendix" 10) Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. by "Michael Kendix" 11) Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... by KnnthS@aol.com 12) Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. by KnnthS@aol.com 13) Re: My comments on this book by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 14) Re: starightening brass struts by "ot811" 15) Re: off list! by "Sylvia May" 16) Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... by "Steven Perry" 17) Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 18) Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. by "Steven Perry" 19) Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone by "Bob Pearson" 20) Re: starightening brass struts by "Gaston Graf" 21) Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 22) Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone by "Steven Perry" 23) Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 24) Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... by "Steven Perry" 25) Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... by KnnthS@aol.com 26) Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone by KnnthS@aol.com 27) Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... by KnnthS@aol.com 28) Re: starightening brass struts by "Michael Kendix" 29) Kit for sale by "Thomas Solinski" 30) Re: starightening brass struts by "Hans Trauner" 31) Pegasus Airco DH5 by "Nigel Rayner" 32) Pegasus Junkers D.1 is finished by Veronica Ugulano 33) Re: starightening brass struts by "ot811" 34) about safety was RE: Re: starightening brass struts by "Gaston Graf" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:54:28 +0000 From: David Fleming To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. Message-ID: <3C665163.A4951B39@dial.pipex.com> Ross, Matt was too modest to mention it, but see: http://www.wwi-models.org/misc/FrenchWW1/Nieuport/nie1772.html For details of modifying the ESCI and Revell kits. IMHO, the 'shortness' is exaggerated by the wrong sweep on the l/e. So if you fix it, it will hasten the arrival of the EE kits !! Dave ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:57:44 +0000 From: David Fleming To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: starightening brass struts Message-ID: <3C665228.77A62393@dial.pipex.com> Michael Kendix wrote: > > Anyway, Mr. Robert Véle (Mr RVHP) has kindly placed some brass strut > material in the kit, rather than including resin struts in the kit since the > latter would have to be replaced. Naturally, the strut material is slightly > bent - each piece is about 15cm (6") long. Any idea how to make and keep > these things straight? How badly bent are they ? I've straightened mildly bent brass strut material by flattening it with a steel rule. O also found it easier to keep straight in short lengths. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 12:14:29 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: starightening brass struts Message-ID: > Any idea how to make and keep > these things straight? Well, I never tried it but can imagine the usual procedure to glow the material red over a candle removes tension of the material, since brass contains a lot of copper. The same procedure softens copper wire for detailing engines. Give it a try! Gaston www.jastaboelcke.de ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:05:05 +0000 From: David Fleming To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: sci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. Message-ID: <3C6653DE.193FD83B@dial.pipex.com> Meant to say, If you are modifying it, I would favour Alberto's method - sand off all the rib detail, amend the span/sweep then redo the ribs with stretched microstrip or decal film. Much easier than trying to get the ribs to match. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 23:34:29 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. Message-ID: <002501c1b22f$48f66980$76492dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> Thanks for this link David. Yes Matt never said a word. Maybe he doesnt want the EE kits to come quicker as he may have a stash of ESCI Nieuports he is converting/correcting.. ;-) All that he has on that page seems do-able. Cheers Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Fleming" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2002 10:12 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. > Ross, > > Matt was too modest to mention it, but see: > > http://www.wwi-models.org/misc/FrenchWW1/Nieuport/nie1772.html > > For details of modifying the ESCI and Revell kits. IMHO, the 'shortness' is > exaggerated by the wrong sweep on the l/e. > > So if you fix it, it will hasten the arrival of the EE kits !! > > Dave > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 13:50:46 +0100 From: Witold Kozakiewicz To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: ExtraTech PE for Roden Gotha IV/V Message-ID: <3C666CA6.7090105@bg.am.lodz.pl> Mike Maddeford wrote: > Hello Witold Kozakiewicz. I see you from Poland. How far are you from > Cracow ? Have you been to the museum there ? Hi, I live about 300km north of Cracow. In Lodz. I've been to the Polish Aaiation Museum several times. There is annual modelers meeting last weekend of May. So this year I'll be there for sure. Museum is closed for winter,AFAIR opens for visitors on May 1st. What do you want from Museum? -- Witold Kozakiewicz ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 14:05:26 +0100 From: Witold Kozakiewicz To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone Message-ID: <3C667016.5070800@bg.am.lodz.pl> Hi, I spent last evening with new Part pe set and A-model kits. Set needs some minor corrections but I have one serious question about engine. There are two plastic parts for engine - cylinders and intake pipes, Part prepared PE pushrods but I'm not sute if they are correct. it is single pushrod per cylinder on front side and instruction says that I should glue it between cylinders and intake parts. According kits instruction A.4 had 9-clinder LeRhone-9J and A.2 5- cylinder LeRhone-9C in A.2. Yes instruction says 5-cylinder engine but kit has 9 cylinder part. Another quiestion. Please, help :-)) -- Witold Kozakiewicz ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 08:37:28 -0600 From: Marc Flake To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. Message-ID: <3C6685A8.ACE@airmail.net> With blue tack stuffed in ears and eyes tightly focused on work through the use of a hooded Optivisor: "LALALALALALALALA BRPBRPBRPBRP SINGIN IN THE RAIN, I'M SINGIING IN THE RAIN,LALALALALALA CAN'T HEAR,CAN'T HEAR LALALALALA!!!!" Marc Flake (Rigging an ESCI Nieuport without having placed the wing on a Datafle or any other plan drawing.) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 14:50:10 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: starightening brass struts Message-ID: >From: David Fleming >How badly bent are they ? I've straightened mildly bent brass strut > >material by flattening it with a steel rule. O also found it easier to > >keep straight in short lengths. Thanks to Dave and Gaston for their suggestions. I tried the metal rule flattening to no avail. They're not that bent. As for heating them up over a candle - my head is made of straw so I'm afraid of fire. I think it is less effort to make bamboo ones - bamboo never kinks and is easily replaced. So, you've helped answer the question. I'll save the brass struts - I'm sure they'll come in handy for something but the interplane struts (there're 8) must be just right. With the Hansa Brandenburg 2-seaters, when you look head-on, the struts slope inward from bottom to top. You can see Dennis Ugulano's Roseplane Oeffag C.II on the Internet Modeler component of the WWI modelling site at: http://www.wwi-models.org/IM/AH/oeffag.html and my own effort at: http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Kendix/AH/index.html I forgot to check that the opposite sides of the parallelogram were equal, thus my inner and outer bay interplane struts don't slope in at the same angle. Great vac kit though - I have no complaints. By the way. A big thanks to Matt for bringing all thos WWI builds to the web site. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 14:54:46 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. Message-ID: >From: "Ross Moorhouse" > >Thanks for this link David. Yes Matt never said a word. Maybe he >doesnt >want the EE kits to come quicker as he may have a stash of ESCI >Nieuports >he is converting/correcting.. ;-) Why do you think those Nieuport 17 Revell and esci kits are so difficult to find, except in a particular attic in Omaha, NE? And even there, I bet they're well hidden! >All that he has on that page seems do-able. I'm waiting for Barry at Rosemont to put out his correction wings and cowl. In the meantime, should I get the urge, I'm building another Esci kit out of the box. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 09:59:16 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... Message-ID: <7d.22108c30.2997e4c4@aol.com> << I considered using the small dumbells she uses in swinging her arms while walking every day, but decided against it. She's in much better shape than I am. ;-) >> Mister K, I have thoroughly enjoyed your posts this weekend, culminating in this. Cans and hot water. If I knew this when I built my SSIII, it would be straight and true. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:09:40 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. Message-ID: <169.89314e4.2997e734@aol.com> Marc Flake sings out: << With blue tack stuffed in ears and eyes tightly focused on work through the use of a hooded Optivisor: "LALALALALALALALA BRPBRPBRPBRP SINGIN IN THE RAIN, I'M SINGIING IN THE RAIN,LALALALALALA CAN'T HEAR,CAN'T HEAR LALALALALA!!!!" >> to me, this is "Modelling At Its Finest". -Loz. N. Taype, Queen's Own, Esq. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:13:02 EST From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: Re: My comments on this book Message-ID: <35.21ee478b.2997e7fe@aol.com> I got this book from Hikoki about a year ago and was advised by them that a follow-on book containing many never before published photos was in the works. It was supposed to be out by the end of last year. But then, so were a lot of kits. :-) FWIW, Mike Kavanaugh In a message dated Sun, 10 Feb 2002 1:27:00 AM Eastern Standard Time, Rory Goodwin writes: > Just got Brad King's Royal Naval Air Service 1912-1918 book (Hikoki > Publications, 1997) for about 18 USD. Not bad for the overview, including > land units and 10 pages of color profiles with some very interesting DH4s as > well as obscure types. Not many detail shots of aircraft and no drawings, > but well illustrated with photos of well-know and not-so-well known aircraft > and personel. Oddly enough, none of Colly's Black Flight Tripes are included > in the profiles (not that I mind). Recommended. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:19:37 -0500 From: "ot811" To: Subject: Re: starightening brass struts Message-ID: Michael, I would be a little wary about heating brass struts. I heat brss wire to take the tension out of them, and they end up very malleable. I suspect if you heated brass struts you may end up with noodles. Just a guess, not based on experience. regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 16:46:24 -0800 From: "Sylvia May" To: Subject: Re: off list! Message-ID: <000401c1b295$8823bfc0$0e00a8c0@pc14> Hi, Fraser here using my wife's computer at school, Ours, along with various other valuables was nicked last night by local pond life...It'll be a fewweeks... signing off for the now... Fraser ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:59:55 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... Message-ID: <001101c1b24b$fbf95f80$0fe82341@tampabay.rr.com> .. > Cans and hot water. > If I knew this when I built my SSIII, it would be straight and true. Sounds like a good way to get your can in hot water. Be sure to get the right labels back on the right cans or Momma will definitely have somewhat to say about the procedure. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:59:56 EST From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone Message-ID: Witold, The following is from Windsock Mini Datafile 4, SPAD S.A-2/S.A-4. The specifications are for both S.A-2 and -4, only mentioning differences where applicable: Power One 80-hp Le Rhone 9C or 110-hp Le Rhone 9J nine-cylinder air-cooled engine. The text mentions that the first few S.A-2s used the 80-hp engine but most of the production used the 110-hp engine. A few 110-hp engined aircraft were reverted to 80-hp engines due to cooling problems. The text says the IRAS acquired 57 Spad S.A-2s and another 11 were built as S.A-4s, 10 of which went to Russia. These differed visibly in having ailerons only on the upper wing and some other wing construction details. No mention is made of a different engine. I have a drawing of the 80-hp Le Rhone engine from the RFC Air Board & Technical Notes which show the "nine curved copper induction pipes which convey the explosive mixture from the crankcase to the inlet valves". Also, the inlet and exhaust valves in each cylinder are operated by 1 tappet rod. The direction of rotation is anti-clockwise as seen from the propeller end of the engine. I'll send a scan of the engine drawing showing the details. HTH, Mike Kavanaugh In a message dated Sun, 10 Feb 2002 8:09:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, Witold Kozakiewicz writes: > Hi, > I spent last evening with new Part pe set and A-model kits. > Set needs some minor corrections but I have one serious question about > engine. > There are two plastic parts for engine - cylinders and intake pipes, > Part prepared PE pushrods but I'm not sute if they are correct. it is > single pushrod per cylinder on front side and instruction says that I > should glue it between cylinders and intake parts. > According kits instruction A.4 had 9-clinder LeRhone-9J and A.2 5- > cylinder LeRhone-9C in A.2. Yes instruction says 5-cylinder engine but > kit has 9 cylinder part. Another quiestion. > Please, help :-)) > > -- > Witold Kozakiewicz ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:01:18 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Esci Nieuport 17 top wing and Data File plans.. Message-ID: <001901c1b24c$2d0bef20$0fe82341@tampabay.rr.com> > > "LALALALALALALALA BRPBRPBRPBRP SINGIN IN THE RAIN, I'M SINGIING IN THE > RAIN,LALALALALALA CAN'T HEAR,CAN'T HEAR LALALALALA!!!!" Bwahahaha. Dicta Ira at it's best. You go Boy! sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 08:14:03 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone Message-ID: <101335768201@smtp.vphos.net> New research shows these numbers to be incorrect ..the list in the Avions article shows the following: S.1-10 were SA.1s, S.11-47 were SA.2s and S.48-107 were SA4s. Beware of photos labelled 'SA2', a large number of those are actually SA.4s .. and iirc all the profiles in the FMP IRAS book should also be SA.4s Bob ---------- >From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone >Date: Sun, Feb 10, 2002, 8:01 am > > The text says the IRAS acquired 57 Spad S.A-2s and another 11 were built as > S.A-4s, 10 of which went to Russia. These differed visibly in having > ailerons only on the upper wing and some other wing construction details. > No mention is made of a different engine. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 17:27:36 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: Re: starightening brass struts Message-ID: As always regarding heat threatment of metals, the keyword is CARE. When heating pure copper for instance, depending on its mass you will need a lot of time (or a powerful torch) to apply a lot of heat until the material starts getting red but then it's only a little step until it flows away like water. It's always best to test such techniques on waste material before trying to heat the model piece. At the time I still worked as a welder, I used to weld copper parts on big steel tubes. The copper parts was heated up until the material started to change its color to gray, then a layer of pure Nickel was applied on the place where it later got welded to the steel tube. It was necessary to keep a torch on the copper while the Nickel layer was build up because the copper was drowning off the heat so quickly. Later, when the piece was assembled to the steel tube, no more heat was applied. It was not necessary due to the Nickel that provided a perfect link between copper and steel. I loved the TIG welding, but choochoo driving brings me today more than the triple of the money that I would make as a welder. happy glowing Gaston www.jastaboelcke.de > > > Michael, > I would be a little wary about heating brass struts. I heat brss wire > to take the tension out of them, and they end up very malleable. > I suspect > if you heated brass struts you may end up with noodles. Just a guess, not > based on experience. > regards > SSH > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:35:56 EST From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... Message-ID: In a message dated Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:00:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, KnnthS@aol.com writes: > Cans and hot water. > If I knew this when I built my SSIII, it would be straight and true. Don't forget the piece of board! Warped wing, bottom side down, in the flat baking dish. Board on wing, cans on board; add hot water. I do this in the sink so that after giving the plastic time to soften and flatten out, I turn on the cold water faucet to cool it and let it reset. About 18 months or so ago, I tried doing this with the top wing of Eduard's Alb. C.III, thinking all I had to do was weigh down the wing tips with cans, add hot water and the wing would flatten out. Wrong! The cans molded themselves nicely into the wingtips, the wing still wasn't flat and I had the devil's time trying to correct the mess. The worst part was that I didn't have anyone else to blame! Mike Kavanaugh ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:48:49 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone Message-ID: <000701c1b252$d1a1f880$0fe82341@tampabay.rr.com> > New research shows these numbers to be incorrect ..the list in the Avions > article shows the following: S.1-10 were SA.1s, S.11-47 were SA.2s and > S.48-107 were SA4s. > > Beware of photos labelled 'SA2', a large number of those are actually SA.4s > . and iirc all the profiles in the FMP IRAS book should also be SA.4s > > Bob I subscribe to this as most of the IRAS photos are of SA.4s. Interestingly there is a photo in Red Stars3 that shows what is definitely an SA.2 in Bolshi markings and is captioned as 1918. It looks refurbished with painted U/C struts and fitted as an unarmed observation machine (the intended use of the design). Must be an interesting story for such an old airframe to be in service so late. Especially considering the maintenance and spare parts problems involved in Eastern European aviation post 1917. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:55:34 EST From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone Message-ID: <11c.c16fbce.29980007@aol.com> Thanks, Bob, I'm printing this out and keeping in the mini datafile. Mike Kavanaugh In a message dated Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:15:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, "Bob Pearson" writes: > New research shows these numbers to be incorrect ..the list in the Avions > article shows the following: S.1-10 were SA.1s, S.11-47 were SA.2s and > S.48-107 were SA4s. > > Beware of photos labelled 'SA2', a large number of those are actually SA.4s > . and iirc all the profiles in the FMP IRAS book should also be SA.4s ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:57:04 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... Message-ID: <001301c1b254$3fc5a900$0fe82341@tampabay.rr.com> The worst part was that I didn't have anyone else to blame! > > Mike Kavanaugh I solved that problem. Ralph, my old Lab/Pit mix gets the blame for all such mishaps along with all spilt paint bottles, dropped parts and extraneous impolite bodily noises. He takes it all calmly and just wags his tail. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:58:49 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... Message-ID: Mike K writes: << with the top wing of Eduard's Alb. C.III, >> ok. have been hearing the A and C word a lot here lately. Here's the tip wanted most: How does one score a CIII without: 1) losing hat & ass on eBay 2) trading kits of better value 3) spending the price of say, a resinous AEG...(that is also...well, nevermind...) 4) getting over the obsession to have one in collection Vo bis du, Albert C three? How obtain. (quit snickering, am serious and no I don't play poker anymore) Waiting by the sink, holding both cans- Ken ps - is this kit buildable? Have a Koster Hanno vac and also a Sierra Albert 5 so am not completely intimidated...ok, a bit maybe...ok, a lot. The Sierra is a valiant effort and the Kentucky gentleman is about as nice a man as they come and the Hanno has more tiny bits than an ant farm. And when ready to paint, one gets to hand-paint hex loz.....that graduates in size.... "and thankful to have it!" ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 12:01:38 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: SPAD A2/A4 A-model Le Rhone Message-ID: <47.17f6d3c3.29980172@aol.com> Hello Bob: << Thanks, Bob, I'm printing this out and keeping in the mini datafile. >> I have been patiently collecting your data in word and photoshop for the last 4 years. I figure when 'done' I'll have a fraction of it and none of the fun of discovery you had. There's logic there somewhere... just can't seem to see it. Thanks also from this smart alek- Ken ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 12:03:27 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: I just fixed the damn wings..... Message-ID: <68.1b3c6abc.299801df@aol.com> sp wags: << He takes it all calmly and just wags his tail. >> awright. everyone pack their stuff. that settles it--all going over to sp's house. ken ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 17:13:33 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: starightening brass struts Message-ID: >From: "Gaston Graf" >As always regarding heat threatment of metals, the keyword is CARE. When >heating pure copper for instance, depending on its mass you will >need a >lot of time (or a powerful torch) to apply a lot of heat until >the >material starts getting red .... I appreciate the information but I really don't own anything that could apply such strong heat - a candle might not be hot enough. Basically, I have tended to not purchase stuff like blow torches, power saws and the like because I like all my fingers and skin to remain as part of me, and I don't really have the training to use them. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:17:50 -0600 From: "Thomas Solinski" To: Subject: Kit for sale Message-ID: <000d01c1b256$de9f54c0$9eb40c44@ok.cox.net> Hi all, just getting ready to eBay some stuff and I thought I'd give you all first shot at a 1/48 Sierra kit of the Aviatik-Berg C.I vac kit, New unstarted no decals. $15.00 and free us shipping. Over seas folks deduct $4 from rates for a 1-1/2 pound package TIA Tom S ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 18:40:58 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: starightening brass struts Message-ID: <003101c1b25a$19b55700$4ebc72d4@FRITZweb> Applying heat to a bend brass strut helps to get the tension out of the brass. It's not necessary to melt it down. The problem with brass struts and any sort of wire is that the material ( brass / steel) is being 'compressed' when forced through the 'diameter-reducing-tool' ( Volker, help me! You are the engineer!). To get this tension out, only relative mild heat is necessary. I am using simply a 'one-way' gas cigarette lighter, which is enough for all wires used up to 1/28 scale. But to get the tension out does not solve the problem to get the damn whole thing straight. My favourite methods are: For 'heated' wire: Simply pull it straight. Put it in a vise and pull like hell. Works only with suitable length. For 'heated' and 'unheated' wire: Roll it. I have done it with a steel ruler on a glass plate and I have done it between two glass plates. Don't give up, it works. But press hard. For 'unheated' wire: Bend it between your fingers. Be careful, but it works. For thicker wire, only. Hope this bends. Hans ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 17:48:21 -0000 From: "Nigel Rayner" To: Subject: Pegasus Airco DH5 Message-ID: <000001c1b25b$213257c0$983bedc1@w1o0t3> Hi all, Just catching up on the digests after a business trip and wow, seems like there's been a fair bit of discussion about the Hi-Tech AEG. Well, I just received the Pegasus DH5 and thought I'd share a few thoughts about that. As usual, nice looking kit from Chris Gannon, pretty much up to the usual Pegasus standard. The kit matches the plans in the FMP DH Aircraft Vol 2 (although the lower wings appear a couple of mm too short, nothing major) and the wing rib tapes are (as usual) very nicely handled. White metal parts are ok - engine is a little blurry (although not much will be seen through the cowl) but the mg is quite nice. Decals for one version, B359, colour scheme during its time at Hendon as a trainer. Overall, nice kit. However, here's the rub - a friend at the local model club is already building one and he found several fit problems with the interior parts (cockpit floor needs trimming) and also found that the forward tutledeck (which is supplied separate from the fuselage) is too narrow on his kit. He glued the fuselage halves together and then found the turtledeck just dropped into the interior! So do some dry fitting first if you're building this one. So not as bad as the AEG, but just the usual kind of thing for limited run kits. But all part of the fun IMHO. And forewarned is forearmed - I asked my buddy to make notes on the build and I'll share them with the list if he does. BTW, just tried using Liquid Paper as a filler - cracking idea! Worked brilliantly. Great tip picked up from the list. Cheers, Nigel R ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 12:51:26 -0500 From: Veronica Ugulano To: "INTERNET:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Pegasus Junkers D.1 is finished Message-ID: <200202101251_MC3-F17D-D45D@compuserve.com> Everyone, The first kit off the table since October is now complete. I started the D.1 as a quick build but it did not turn out that way. This is one of Pegasus' older kits and I had to work at it to make it work. But it is now complete and the photos have been taken. I have to write some code and get it on line. A special thanks to Dave and his IM build for giving me the last bit of information I needed to finish the instrument panel. Excellent job Dave. I now have to get back to building to catch up on some builds for others. Let's hope this neat little kit will do its job. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://ronnieuggie.com/uggie/dju.htm Page Revised 01/12/2002 "Each modeler will rise to their own level of masochism." ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 13:52:53 -0500 From: "ot811" To: Subject: Re: starightening brass struts Message-ID: Okay, Let me add my bit again. If you take a 1/16 in. brass strip and heat it for a short time in a candle flame (not an acetylene torch, Michael), the struts loses some of its tension. Heat it just a little longer and the struts loses all its strength, becomes completely malleable, and is useless as a strut. I guess it needs a lot of practice to determine at what point to stop. It might be easier to simply flex the strip back into true. regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 19:52:11 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: about safety was RE: Re: starightening brass struts Message-ID: Oh I'm sorry for the misunderstanding. What I was talking about was copper parts with a diameter of about 1 ft and a weight of about 30 pounds per piece. I talked about industrial work to give you an example on how it works to heat up copper before welding it. Basically this is the same than working with brass pieces or copper wire on models. The difference is that the weight of these parts is very little so the heat needed is very little too, hence a cigarette lighter, a candle or a match will easily do the job. You don't need special training for using a candle - all you need is common sense. It speaks for itself that you put the candle on a good candle holder to give it a safe base. Also you should be using only a low and thick candle because it is easier to use than a tall and thin candle. Additionally a tea light does a great job because it is small and cannot be topped over so easily. And of course you should keep thinners and everything flammable away from the little flame. When I use a candle for modeling, I put it off as soon as I have finished my work and never leave it burning while I am away from my workbench. And regarding the other hell machines you mentionned: Well, again the keyword is "care" and the use of safety devices should always be priority to anything else. Accidents always happen because people are careless. For example, they don't put on protection goggles because they "only want to cut one little piece" and bingo, one eye is gone because a small bit of metal pentrated it, and so on. Yes, sometimes it is annoying to search for my goggles, ear protection and gloves because gathering the stuff together takes more time than cutting the little piece that I want to cut, but I have only one pair of eyes and one pair of ears and my hands are only useable if complete with all fingers. I have a little girl of two years who is a real pest sometimes because she wants to get everything that is forbidden to her. I had to secure all the drawers and lockers that contain harmful stuff and when I used my modeling knife I always secure it with a cork of a Champagne bottle and put it out of her reach immediately. I would go crazy to see my little darling piercing her eye because daddy was too careless with his dangerous tools. 'nuff said Gaston www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Michael > Kendix > Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2002 6:15 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: starightening brass struts > > > >From: "Gaston Graf" > >As always regarding heat threatment of metals, the keyword is CARE. When > >heating pure copper for instance, depending on its mass you will >need a > >lot of time (or a powerful torch) to apply a lot of heat until >the > >material starts getting red .... > > I appreciate the information but I really don't own anything that could > apply such strong heat - a candle might not be hot enough. Basically, I > have tended to not purchase stuff like blow torches, power saws > and the like > because I like all my fingers and skin to remain as part of me, > and I don't > really have the training to use them. > > Michael > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4160 **********************