WWI Digest 4091 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) by junhesoft@junhesoft.com 2) RE: Pegasus decals? by David Fleming 3) RE: Pegasus decals? by Crawford Neil 4) RE: Another addition by Crawford Neil 5) Next Edition of Windsock by Tom Gourdie 6) Hannants hot list by Crawford Neil 7) Windsock by Tom Gourdie 8) R: Next Edition of Windsock by a.casirati@cornali-trasporti.it 9) Brass tubes and boring corks was Roundels and painting by Crawford Neil 10) Re: Rivets from J-B Weld worked great by Jan Vihonen 11) the carpet monster really bites by "Diego Fernetti" 12) Re: More Eduard Nieuport Questions by KnnthS@aol.com 13) RE: Pegasus decals? by "Michael Kendix" 14) RE: Pegasus decals? by Crawford Neil 15) RE: Pegasus decals? by KnnthS@aol.com 16) RE: Pegasus decals? by "Michael Kendix" 17) RE: Pegasus decals? by Crawford Neil 18) Re: Tidying up was RE: RE: New addition by "Muth and Zulick" 19) Re: Brass tubes and boring corks was Roundels and painting by "Shannon Mark" 20) I had to tell somebody... by "Lance Krieg" 21) Re: Brass tubes and boring corks was Roundels and painting by Nigel Cheffers-Heard 22) control surface positioning by Mark Miller 23) R: I had to tell somebody... by a.casirati@cornali-trasporti.it 24) Re: Tidying up was RE: RE: New addition by "Graham Hunter" 25) Re: control surface positioning by "Steven Perry" 26) Re: I had to tell somebody... by "Tom Plesha" 27) Kingston Vac Machine by CAUhlir@aol.com 28) Re: I had to tell somebody... by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 29) Re: 1:144 Mamoli RE8 by "cameron rile" 30) Hue IDs from B&W photos, was: Lozenge color help by "StefenK" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 02:34:24 -0800 (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) From: junhesoft@junhesoft.com Message-ID: <3C47A3850009386E@mail.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) =?GB2312?B?b2xkbWlzo6k=?= To: wwi@wwi-models.org Content-Type: text/plain; Sender: junhesoft@junhesoft.com Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:34:16 +0800 X-Priority: 3 X-Library: Caretop Library X-Mailer: Caretop 2604 ÄúºÃ£¡ ÊÔÒ»ÊÔ£¬×Ô¼º¾Í¿ÉÒÔ¹¹½¨ÐÅÏ¢¹ÜÀíϵͳ. ¹ºÖüÆËã»úºóÄúÏë×öʲôÄÄ£¿ÉÏÍø¡¢ÓÎÏ·¡¢»¹ÓУ®£®£®£®£®£® »¹ÓУº Ïë°Ñ×Ô¼ºµÄÒµÎñÓüÆËã»ú¹ÜÀíÆðÀ´È´×Ô¼º²»»á±à³Ì¿ª·¢Èí¼þ Á¢ÏîίÍбðÈË¿ª·¢ÓÖÊÜÖÆÓÚÈË ×¨ÒµÍ¨ÓÃÈí¼þ¿Éά»¤ÐÔ¡¢ÊÊÓ¦ÐԲ²»ÊʺÏ×Ô¼ºÎÞ¿ÉÄκΠÈí¼þµÄÊý¾Ý·ÖÎö¹¦ÄÜÎÞ·¨Âú×ã×Ô¼º¶ÔÊý¾ÝµÄ·ÖÎöÒªÇó Ïë°ÑÐí¶à¹ÜÀíÏîÄ¿¼¯Öе½Ò»¸öƽ̨ÉÏ £®£®£®£®£®£®ÓÐʲôÈí¼þ¿ÉÒÔ½â¾öÕâЩÎÊÌ⣿ ÖÇÄÜɵ¹ÏÐ͹ÜÀíƽ̨£¨mis£©------¡¶½ð³ÉͨÓùÜÀíƽ̨¡·ÊÇÄúµÄÑ¡Ôñ¡£ ¡¶½ð³ÉͨÓùÜÀíƽ̨¡·ÊǹúÄÚ×îÓÅÐãµÄÖÇÄÜɵ¹ÏÐ͹ÜÀíƽ̨£¨mis£©Èí¼þ£¬²úÆ·Ö÷ÒªÌص㣺ÎÞÐè±à³Ì,£¬Ö»Ð趨Òå²ÎÊý¿ìËÙ¹¹½¨ÐÅÏ¢¹ÜÀíϵͳ£»Ö»Ðèµ÷Õû²ÎÊý¿ìËÙά»¤ÐÅÏ¢¹ÜÀíϵͳ£»ÇÒ¾ßÓÐÇ¿´óµÄÊý¾Ý·ÖÎö±¨±íÓ¦Óù¦ÄÜ¡£ Èí¼þÊʺϸ÷Ðи÷Òµ¸÷ÖÖÐÅÏ¢¹ÜÀíϵͳµÄ½¨Á¢¡£ ÏÖ¹«Ë¾°Ñ´ËÈí¼þ¼ÓÃÜ·½Ê½£¬ÓÐÒÔÇ°µÄ¼ÓÃÜËø¸ÄΪע²á·½Ê½£¬ÇÒ´ó·ù½µµÍ×¢²á·Ñ£¨½ö300Ôª£©¡£»¶Ó­ÄúʹÓùúÄÚ×îºÃµÄMISÈí¼þ¡£ µ±½ñÉç»á£¬ÈÕÐÂÔÂÒ죬¡¶½ð³ÉͨÓùÜÀíƽ̨¡·ÒÔ¿ìËÙÓ¦Ó㬿ìËÙά»¤£¬¹¦ÄÜÇ¿´óΪÑз¢ÀíÄ¶¨ÄÜʹÄúµÄ¼ÆËã»úÓ¦ÓÃˮƽÉÏһ̨½×¡£ »¶Ó­ºÏ×÷Ó¦Óᢿª·¢»òoemµÈ¡£ ±±¾©¾ýºÌ½ð³É¿Æ¼¼·¢Õ¹ÓÐÏÞ¹«Ë¾ µç»°£º62180002£»62178388 ÏÂÔØ£ºhttp://www.junhesoft.com/soft/goldmis-login.zip http://www.junhesoft.com/html/xiazai.htm ÍøÖ·£ºhttp://www.junhesoft.com E-MAIL£ºsales@junhesoft.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:55:08 +0000 From: David Fleming To: Subject: RE: Pegasus decals? Message-ID: <1011610508.3c4bf38c110a7@netmail.pipex.net> The varnish, at least on their British Serials sheet, yellowed quite quickly on the sheet (faster than other makes). Dave ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:07:18 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Pegasus decals? Message-ID: Thanks Dave and Tom, thats the sort of information that can be very useful. I'm afraid that I'm getting closer to the dreaded roundel painting. I'm going to put on some of the other decals this evening, just to see what colour the red goes, when on dark green, I think the Pegasus decals are too brownish to match the rest. I think the only decals I have that are brighter red, are Airfix from the Spad VII, and I'm not using those! /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:15:56 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Another addition Message-ID: Very nice Albatross from Fraser. Amd a nice Phönix from Nigel, but I must say the one I like most is Nigels wood-fuselaged Albatross, really good wood effect on the fuselage, very well done! /Neil C. > -----Original Message----- > From: Matt Bittner [mailto:tbittners@sprintmail.com] > Sent: den 20 januari 2002 20:05 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Another addition > > > Just added two new models from Nigel Rayner. Awesome work! The > wood effect on the Albatros is stunning. > > > Matt Bittner > WW1 Modeling Page > Assistant Editor > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:17:34 -0000 From: Tom Gourdie To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Next Edition of Windsock Message-ID: Does any one know when the first 2002 edition of Windsock is due out? Tom Tom Gourdie Regional Group Coordinator Outreach Department Universities and Colleges Admissions Service (UCAS) Registered Office Address : Rosehill New Barn Lane Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL52 3LZ UK E-mail : t.gourdie@ucas.ac.uk Direct telephone number: +44 (0) 1242 544 878 Direct fax number: +44 (0) 1242 544 963 Registered Company No: 2839815 Registered Charity No: 1024741 Website: www.ucas.com This message is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient please notify us immediately. You may not copy it or use this message for any purpose or disclose its contents to any other person or take any action based on them. E-Mails are susceptible to interference. UCAS accepts no responsibility for information, errors or omissions in this e-mail nor for its use or misuse nor for any act committed or omitted in connection with this communication. If in doubt, please verify the authenticity of the contents with the sender. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:19:42 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Hannants hot list Message-ID: REVELL RV4570 1:48 SE5A £6.99 £5.95 SRAM SRAM7201 1:72 AGO C.II £16.50 £14.04 Aircraft kits (resin) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:26:30 -0000 From: Tom Gourdie To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Windsock Message-ID: Ignore my last post. Just noticed Alberto's message so the first 2002 edition is obviously out. Haven't got mine though! Tom Tom Gourdie Regional Group Coordinator Outreach Department Universities and Colleges Admissions Service (UCAS) Registered Office Address : Rosehill New Barn Lane Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL52 3LZ UK E-mail : t.gourdie@ucas.ac.uk Direct telephone number: +44 (0) 1242 544 878 Direct fax number: +44 (0) 1242 544 963 Registered Company No: 2839815 Registered Charity No: 1024741 Website: www.ucas.com This message is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient please notify us immediately. You may not copy it or use this message for any purpose or disclose its contents to any other person or take any action based on them. E-Mails are susceptible to interference. UCAS accepts no responsibility for information, errors or omissions in this e-mail nor for its use or misuse nor for any act committed or omitted in connection with this communication. If in doubt, please verify the authenticity of the contents with the sender. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:23:16 +0100 From: a.casirati@cornali-trasporti.it To: Subject: R: Next Edition of Windsock Message-ID: <43EB244779F3D411966E0060082C59E90F040E@SERVER1> I have already had my copy, but I suppose this is just because I am a contributor. AFAIK, the first issue of WS is due by the end of this month. Ray apologizes for the partial delay, due to elements beyond his control and will. BTW, this issue feature lot of Bob Pearson's outstanding work: well done, Bob ! Alberto Casirati -----Messaggio originale----- Da: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]Per conto di Tom Gourdie Inviato: lunedì 21 gennaio 2002 12.24 A: Multiple recipients of list Oggetto: [WWI] Next Edition of Windsock Does any one know when the first 2002 edition of Windsock is due out? Tom Tom Gourdie Regional Group Coordinator Outreach Department Universities and Colleges Admissions Service (UCAS) Registered Office Address : Rosehill New Barn Lane Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL52 3LZ UK E-mail : t.gourdie@ucas.ac.uk Direct telephone number: +44 (0) 1242 544 878 Direct fax number: +44 (0) 1242 544 963 Registered Company No: 2839815 Registered Charity No: 1024741 Website: www.ucas.com This message is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient please notify us immediately. You may not copy it or use this message for any purpose or disclose its contents to any other person or take any action based on them. E-Mails are susceptible to interference. UCAS accepts no responsibility for information, errors or omissions in this e-mail nor for its use or misuse nor for any act committed or omitted in connection with this communication. If in doubt, please verify the authenticity of the contents with the sender. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:42:30 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Brass tubes and boring corks was Roundels and painting Message-ID: Shane & Mark I've been meaning to ask about this, it's a very good idea. Where do you get your brass tubing? Alternatively, are these cork borer sets expensive and difficult to find? /Neil C. > -----Original Message----- > From: Shane Weier [mailto:sdw@qld.mim.com.au] > Sent: den 17 januari 2002 23:23 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] RE: Roundels and painting > > > Mark says: > > > The device used to bore holes in corks and stoppers, called, > > amazingly, a cork borer, may be just what you are looking for. > > > > This can be purchased in a set that goes from about 3mm up to > > about 20-25mm. Each borer is a brass or steel tube, > > sharpened at one end and the other with a 'T' handle. The > > whole set nests together. > > Oops. Professionally manufactured version of my box of tube fragments. > > Betcha can't cut ovals with them though ;-) > > (choose brass tube of appropriate diameter, sharpen end, > crimp to shape - > this is how I make control gland patches from prepainted decal) > > Shane > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ********************************************************************** > The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is > intended only for the use of the addressee(s). > If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or > copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to > forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the > MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. > > For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 > Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au > Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 > International ++61 7 38338042 > ********************************************************************** > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:52:28 +0200 From: Jan Vihonen To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rivets from J-B Weld worked great Message-ID: <3C4C0F0C.223B71E6@helsinki.fi> Jim and Bob, Is the J-B Weld stuff you mean one of these: http://www.jbweld.co.uk/files/products.html Jan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:53:03 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: the carpet monster really bites Message-ID: Hi I'm again out here lurking by... nice models on the gallery! I certainly love the wood effect on that albatros, and the stripes on the Jasta 5 bird are really tempting me to try something like this on a Pfalz D.III (I think that plain silver machines are boring!) Regarding the title of my message, I must warn you, that monster that eats our model parts has ways to make you desist from the search! Last saturday I dropped a piece of stretched sprue that I cut for detailing the Nieuport and then I started searching the thingie on the floor (that has no carpet as it's summer here but is of dark blue tiles). After a bit of judicious searching I finally find it in the junction of two tiles and I extracted from this hiding place with tweezers. Then the phone rang, I tried to stand up but I was under a shelf with lots of books and when I moved, I hit my spine against the corner of the shelf, wich made me a painful cut, and about the 25 tomes of an encyclopaedia fell on my back. No wonder, I lost the piece again, this time for ever... So remember to be careful with the carpet monster, pay the sacrifial pieces without hesitation... Vôtre D. _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 08:09:59 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: More Eduard Nieuport Questions Message-ID: <50.53c0b51.297d6d27@aol.com> In a message dated 20/1/02 10:06:30 pm, rorygood@earthlink.net writes: << the curved copper tubing going into the side of each cylinder from the back of the engine are the intake manifold/pipes. I have a metal Aeroclub Le Rhone with these cast as part of the engine. >> They are not even present in non-profi Noop. You are better off w/Aeroclub and a paint pot for said pipe. Ed's non-profi Kit gives you jugs and no plumbing. Nice enough, given the mold, but not the accuracy you seek. No PE and No PE seat characteristic. You'll need after-market to detail a non-profi. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:21:26 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Pegasus decals? Message-ID: I have used Pegasus decals with few problems. I have their Austro-Hungarian Crowns and Crosses sheet, which is fine. You have to trim the clear sheet off each decal you cut off but aside from that, no problems and I didn't notice any translucency. They are thicker than the ones in the Eduard kits (Propag?) but reasonable. I have not tried using any solvents on them because the instructions say not to. BTW, does anyone have a response about the shade of blue for French roundels. Are they powder blue or pale blue? Why does A/G have the red as really dark headed towards brown? I suppose Nigel rayner's pictures of the Voisin LAS in Paris does show the roundels a bit darker red? Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:29:24 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Pegasus decals? Message-ID: Michael wrote: > > BTW, does anyone have a response about the shade of blue for French > roundels. Are they powder blue or pale blue? > > Why does A/G have the red as really dark headed towards > brown? I suppose > Nigel rayner's pictures of the Voisin LAS in Paris does show > the roundels a > bit darker red? My theory is that the red oxidised to red-brown and perhaps the same applies to the blue, so it became blue-grey? So a new aircraft should have brighter roundels? /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 08:34:19 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Pegasus decals? Message-ID: <16c.7795f2d.297d72db@aol.com> Mike: RE pegasus cals << I have not tried using any solvents on them because the instructions say not to. >> I snuck in a dilute mix on a loz project. Noramlly supple as all get out but these got cranky. Little bit of patience, little bit of solvent (dilute!) and a quick wash off with watery brush...and no prob. Go easy on the brush and don't let 'em sit in solv for too long. Dicey, but good in worst-case... Ken ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:45:28 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Pegasus decals? Message-ID: >From: Crawford Neil > >My theory is that the red oxidised to red-brown and perhaps the >same applies to the blue, so it became blue-grey? >So a new aircraft should have brighter roundels? Well, the Caudron G.4 in the Smithsonian (under going rennovation at Garber) and the SPAD VII in Paris have washed out red in their roundels, and those look like they've not been touched since 1917 or so. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:56:42 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Pegasus decals? Message-ID: > > Well, the Caudron G.4 in the Smithsonian (under going > rennovation at Garber) > and the SPAD VII in Paris have washed out red in their > roundels, and those > look like they've not been touched since 1917 or so. > > Michael So first they go brown, then washed out red? I don't get this, where did that brownish colour come from? Both Pegasus, Blue Rider and many profile painters do them brown, if I'd been french in WW1 I'd have complained! /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:42:54 -0500 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Re: Tidying up was RE: RE: New addition Message-ID: <009801c1a292$4bb28480$0100005a@ptd.net> > > << Heehee .. for those who haven't seen it, RK's model room is/was currently > under a layer of airbrush dust thick enough to be considered part of > Pompeii. . truly a wonder to behold seeing various models and tools in their > protective cocoons awaiting discovery by future generations. > > Bob >> > > That's...uh......."preservative powder"...........keeps daylight off all the > valuables? Er....better be careful. Some of my clients tried that as a defense in a case and it didn't work ;-)) Mike Muth, whose work area got tidied up by a fire 2 months ago, but will soon be back with a vengeance after the repairs are done...hopefully within the next week or so. White walls are to be painted today...then some white linoleum on the floor. No, I'm not going for a Goering motiffe, just figure it'll be easier to spot the fallen fiddlybits with a white floor. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:14:53 -0600 From: "Shannon Mark" To: Subject: Re: Brass tubes and boring corks was Roundels and painting Message-ID: <005501c1a296$cd33c240$661efea9@maincomp> From: "Crawford Neil" Monday, January 21, 2002 6:44 AM > Shane & Mark > I've been meaning to ask about this, it's a very good > idea. Where do you get your brass tubing? > Alternatively, are these cork borer sets expensive > and difficult to find? > /Neil C. I'm not sure of the price, I haven't priced them in ages. As far as where, they can be bought from a scientific supply house, possibly from MicroMark. They are not cheap, there is a lot of brass in them and they are precisely turned, but they should not be as expensive as, say, one of the good punch and die sets. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:47:09 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: I had to tell somebody... Message-ID: After 16 months of work, I finally put the top wing on my 1/48 Lone Star Felixstowe this weekend. As always, the operation was a tense excercise, only successful because of liberal use of obscenities. And, naturally, I knocked a dozen or so detail parts off while wrestling it into place; it overhangs my jig in all directions. Still, I'm getting there... So I dragged my wife in to admire it, and what did she say? What else: "That's nice, dear." ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:01:51 +0000 From: Nigel Cheffers-Heard To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Brass tubes and boring corks was Roundels and painting Message-ID: Boring corks? I've NEVER seen an interesting one.... :) N -- Nigel Cheffers-Heard photography + design tel: +44 (0)1392 87 58 57 fax: +44 (0)1392 87 74 97 mobile: 0771 261 4514 nigelch@cheffers.co.uk www.cheffers.co.uk Laburnums, Bridge Hill Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ, UK ------------------------------ Date: 21 Jan 2002 09:06:36 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: control surface positioning Message-ID: <20020121170636.12223.cpmta@c016.snv.cp.net> Hi I have finaly gotten around to re-working my Virtual DVa model so that i can reposition the control surfaces, and it occures to me that, not being a pilot, I don't have a very good idea where they should go first - how much range of motion did the different control surfaces have. I have one image with 10 degrees up on one aerleron 10 degrees down on the other. when executing a tight turn - was it common practice to go into a 90 degree bank. and would you give "up elevator" to tighten the turn. and would you need to use the rudder to maintain attitude during the turn. or, how about typical errors non-pilots make when depicting aircraft in flight? Any input would be appreciated Mark Miller Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:55:07 +0100 From: a.casirati@cornali-trasporti.it To: Subject: R: I had to tell somebody... Message-ID: <43EB244779F3D411966E0060082C59E90F0411@SERVER1> I do not even remember when it was that I tried to show one of my models to my wife.... Alberto Casirati -----Messaggio originale----- Da: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]Per conto di Lance Krieg Inviato: lunedì 21 gennaio 2002 17.50 A: Multiple recipients of list Oggetto: [WWI] I had to tell somebody... After 16 months of work, I finally put the top wing on my 1/48 Lone Star Felixstowe this weekend. As always, the operation was a tense excercise, only successful because of liberal use of obscenities. And, naturally, I knocked a dozen or so detail parts off while wrestling it into place; it overhangs my jig in all directions. Still, I'm getting there... So I dragged my wife in to admire it, and what did she say? What else: "That's nice, dear." ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:13:50 -0600 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: Re: Tidying up was RE: RE: New addition Message-ID: <000701c1a29f$005736e0$770101c0@ghunter> Mike writes; < To: Subject: Re: control surface positioning Message-ID: <00ee01c1a2a1$1ce6b2c0$0fe82341@tampabay.rr.com> Mark: When establishing a bank the ailerons deflect in opposite directions. Once the angle of bank is established, you release most of the aileron pressure on the stick holding only enough to maintain the angle. (you need more deflection to creat a roll than to maintain a rolled attitude.) On many designs, the ailerons deflect more up than down. This is to prevent adverse aileron yaw at low airspeeds. The down aileron increases lift, the up destroys it. The up aileron causes parasite drag while the down aileron causes both parasite and induced drag. (induced drag is a function of lift and is proportional to it). Too much down aileron at low speeds increases the total drag on that wing to the point that the aircraft will yaw in the opposite direction from the aileron input at low speeds.Hence many ailerons deflect more to the up than the down. As for the rudder holding a nose up (sideways) attitude in a knife edge turn, my C150 didn't do knife edge turns, so I can't comment directly. I do recall asking one of the more accomplished R/C fliers if that was the case and he said yes. I guess that makes it an extreme example of an airplane flying on the engine rather than the wing. hth sp > I have finaly gotten around to re-working my Virtual DVa model so that i can reposition the control surfaces, and it occures to me that, not being a pilot, I don't have a very good idea where they should go > > first - how much range of motion did the different control surfaces have. I have one image with 10 degrees up on one aerleron 10 degrees down on the other. > > when executing a tight turn - > was it common practice to go into a 90 degree bank. > and would you give "up elevator" to tighten the turn. > > and would you need to use the rudder to maintain attitude during the turn. > > or, how about typical errors non-pilots make when depicting aircraft in flight? > > Any input would be appreciated > Mark Miller > > > Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! > http://www.shopping.altavista.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:30:52 -0500 From: "Tom Plesha" To: Subject: Re: I had to tell somebody... Message-ID: <001a01c1a2a1$6014e120$2cfdfa18@mcmb1.mi.home.com> Great- Hope the detail damage was not serious More pictures! "That's nice, That's cute" seem to be universal responses. Later Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lance Krieg" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 11:48 AM Subject: [WWI] I had to tell somebody... > After 16 months of work, I finally put the top wing on my 1/48 Lone Star > Felixstowe this weekend. As always, the operation was a tense excercise, only > successful because of liberal use of obscenities. > > And, naturally, I knocked a dozen or so detail parts off while wrestling it into > place; it overhangs my jig in all directions. Still, I'm getting there... > > So I dragged my wife in to admire it, and what did she say? What else: > > "That's nice, dear." > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:33:41 EST From: CAUhlir@aol.com To: Subject: Kingston Vac Machine Message-ID: <131.77c405f.297daaf5@aol.com> Hi All, I noticed a post on Kingston vacs on the list last week so I decided to finally fire mine up and try it out. The good news is that I got two pretty good casts of my 1/48 Vimy engine eggs out of three tries. I am very pleased. The bad news is the overall construction needs work. First up I had to tape all the edges of the box to stop air leaks. Easy but something I shouldn't have to do. The more troublesome is their connection port to the vacuum source. They use a PVC fitting that is attached to the box via a screw and collar arrangement. My collar fell off inside the box when I was removing the vacuum source. The collar was just tightened down without any use of a sealant of any type. It appears impossible to reattach it without taking the box apart. Now I am faced with rigging up a rubber based friction fitting of my own design. the box is servicable...Kingston just needs to put a bit more thought into the overall construction integrity. Candice ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:37:40 EST From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: Re: I had to tell somebody... Message-ID: <164.7731267.297dabe5@aol.com> Wives are wonderful people but, with some exceptions, there are limits as to what you should expect from them when it comes to OT model building appreciation. I'm sure mine believes that, in my dotage, I'm reliving the hobby of my youth and that it's relatively harmless. "That's nice, dear" is about the most passionate thing my wife has ever said about my modeling efforts. (don't go there, Diego!) Benign neglect has its good points. She doesn't try to keep a running balance of my modeling expenditures. Mike Kavanaugh BTW Lance, re. your Felixstowe progress. . . that's nice. :-) In a message dated Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:51:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, "Lance Krieg" writes: > So I dragged my wife in to admire it, and what did she say? What else: > > "That's nice, dear." > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 102 12:33:10 -0400 From: "cameron rile" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: 1:144 Mamoli RE8 Message-ID: Mike, >What did you use for rigging, spider web? Spittle. cam www.australianflyingcorps.org ______________________________________________________________ Get Your Free E-mail at http://www.prontomail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:37:19 -0500 From: "StefenK" To: "WWI Modeling List" Cc: "Mark Miller" Subject: Hue IDs from B&W photos, was: Lozenge color help Message-ID: <3C47CE09000C5957@mail.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:01:52 +1000, Shane W. concluded: "In any case - the reason that the theory propounded won't work is surely pretty clear. Ortho film is not *absolutely* insensitive to red, 50% insensitive to green and 100% sensitive to blue - sensitivity varies ina curve, has bumbs and bulges and is in any case further affected by the colour of ambient light. You have *way* too many variables for such a simplification to work (except in the case where the subject is coloured with *only* pure red, green and blue)." Shane presented a useful primer on how black-and-white films are formulated to respond to the three wavelength bands of the visible spectrum—blue, green, and red. I like to make an analogy with audio reproduction, with which List readers may be more familiar. Let's take the example of a full-range speaker system that uses three drivers (transducers)—bass, midrange (treble), and tweeter (high-frequency)—to cover the entire audible spectrum from approximately 20 Hz to 20 kHz. Each driver responds to particular wavelength band with a useful efficiency that takes the form of a bell-curve senstivity, say, 20 to 200 Hz, 100 to 10 kHz, 8 kHz to 20 kHz. Ideally, the additive effect where the slopes of these curves overlap should result in a straigtline response across the entire audio spectrum. As real-world speaker response curves show, however, this ideal is rarely, if ever, actually achieved, and there are greater and lesser deviations (discontinuities) in the form of spikes and dips can be found all along the audio band. Returning to photography, I must disagree with Shane on one point, however: It is not the similar discontinuities in the color sensitivity of film emulstions per se that make hue identification from black-and-whaite photographs not merely suspect, but, in my view, impossible. If these discrpancies were the sole problem, then, in analogy with audio again, we could, in theory, fashion a kind of equalizer to adjust the known deficiencies of our 'speaker' (film), just as Mark would like to be able to do. [Heck, I wish we could fashion an algorithm that would permit a program like Photoshop to make such identifications, too.] However, color theory shows that any particular color identity consists of the intersection of three axes: hue (wavelength), chroma (saturation), and luminosity. While black-and-white photographs obviously strip out the wavelength information, all photography of necessity also distorts the luminosity information of the original scene. A landscape may have a luminance scale of 1 to a 1,000 or more from the deepest shadow to the brightness of the sun or its specular reflections. A photographic print can manage only a much narrow brightness range, perhaps 1 to 50, from the deepest developable black to the fixed brightness of the particular paper substrate. [The general problem has been discussed in detail by Ansel Adams in his classic series on photographic technique; the particular brightness scales are consistent with examples provided by him.] This means that there will inevitably be compression of the luminosity information in photo prints, and this cannot be corrected for with a hypothetical 'equalizer' because the luminances of the original scene are not—and will never be—available to us. There are additional matters of photographic practice—such as the use of filters, over- and underexposure, over- and underdevelopment—that only further complicate the problem, but these are of a different nature. The issue of the loss of luminance information, combined with the absence of wavelength information, makes identification of hues from black-and-white photos not merely difficult or suspect, but theoretically impossible. Wishing things were different, Stefen ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4091 **********************