WWI Digest 4090 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Another addition by "Pedro Soares" 2) Re: Bye all by "David Layton" 3) Re: Rivets by "Jim Landon" 4) Re: rivets by "Jim Landon" 5) Re: Rivets by "Jim Landon" 6) Re: Rivets by "Jim Landon" 7) Re: Rivets by "Jim Landon" 8) Re: Rivets: by "Jim Landon" 9) Box art work for Eduards latest Roland Walfish by "Ross Moorhouse" 10) Hes baacckkk by "Steven Perry" 11) Now Open To All #4FFD by "Marketing Group 12B" 12) re: Rivets/Archer's Fine Transfers by "Jim Landon" 13) re:Archer's Fine Transfers by "Jim Landon" 14) Re: Rivets by "Jim Landon" 15) Re: More Eduard Nieuport Questions by Rory Goodwin 16) Rivets from J-B Weld worked great by "Jim Landon" 17) Washout was:RE: Aircraft dimensions by "D Charles" 18) Russian Semi-OT Ship Site by Todd Hayes 19) RE: Pegasus decals? by Tom Gourdie ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:59:49 -0000 From: "Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: Another addition Message-ID: <00f801c1a206$29933020$207016d5@netcabo.pt> Indeed. Well done Nigel. It looks like we could do a Phonix cook up just between ourselves and Michael Kendix.... ;-). Keep 'em coming. Pedro ----- Original Message ----- From: Matt Bittner To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 7:04 PM Subject: [WWI] Another addition > Just added two new models from Nigel Rayner. Awesome work! The > wood effect on the Albatros is stunning. > > > Matt Bittner > WW1 Modeling Page > Assistant Editor > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 18:01:41 -0600 From: "David Layton" To: Subject: Re: Bye all Message-ID: <001601c1a20e$ce9b2340$416cd918@DavidLayton> Hmmm, the same tools they used to use to tune up MG's.... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Perry" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 4:11 PM Subject: [WWI] Bye all > Fixin to take the 'puter down to work on it. Borrowed a 4' pipe wrench, 12 > pound sledge and a Johnson bar from work. Now how does that cover thingie > come off? > > So if I disappear off the radar screen for a few days, tip your keyboards in > respect because the operation will have failed and the patient died. > > Y'all play nice now. > ttyl > sp > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 23:59:09 From: "Jim Landon" To: krychski@earthlink.net, wwi@wwi-models.org Cc: TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Rivets Message-ID: Hi Karen, (and list) <> Thanks. Necessity is the mother of invention. I spend three-fourths of my time trying to figure out how to get myself out of a jam that I've created for myself. <> Whew! If *YOU* couldn't make it work, then I don't feel so stupid! <> Thanks, but even if I had the skill to shave off something that tiny without ruining it, I'd hate to buy a whole kit just for rivet heads. <<2. If you can settle for flat bolt heads and nuts, several lines of PE are available. Eric at Copper State has nice ones and so does Fotocut (available from Rosemont Hobby). The nuts can be stacked on a fine wire for a thicker nut and the appearance of a bolt shaft in the middle; the bolt heads can also be stacked but will result in a flat upper surface.>> Thanks. Saw the PE in the hobby shop, but I need round head rivets, not bolts or nuts. <<3. I've found two companies that sell round-headed bolt/rivet heads. One is Grandt Line model railroad parts...>> I used Grandt Line rivet heads on my Thomas-Morse S4C. None of their rivets are small enough. They look like golf ball halves on my Tommy. <<4. This is really esoteric: someone on the list suggested buying a kitchen faucet water filter cartridge and tearing it open to reveal gazillions of tiny ceramic (I think) balls. Drill or punch a shallow hole where you want a rivet head and drop the ball in it.>> Great idea. What brand and model of filter? Thanks for all the ideas - food for thought. Jim _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:02:29 From: "Jim Landon" To: plesha3@home.com, wwi@wwi-models.org Cc: TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com Subject: Re: rivets Message-ID: Hi Tom, <> Thanks but I never found any tiny enough. See my reply to Karen. Jim >From: "Tom Plesha" >To: "Jim Landon" >Subject: rivets >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 00:34:34 -0500 > >Hi Jim- >Grant Lines, Diesel Parts, etc. make rivet heads in various scales, carried >by most RR shops & VLS. >HTH >Later >Tom > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:09:08 From: "Jim Landon" To: ot811@myrealbox.com Cc: wwi@wwi-models.org, TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Rivets Message-ID: Hi "SSH", <> Ironoically they're too *BIG* for my Salmson. Unless they have something smaller than their #155. See my reply to Karen. <> Hey man, if I can use a Slim*Fast can and a mustard bottle ... (grin) <> Way too big, by a factor of about four! Thanks anyway, Jim >From: "ot811" >To: >CC: >Subject: Re: [WWI] Rivets >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 09:07:06 -0500 > >Jim, > You can find plastic rivets made by Grandt Line in model railroad hobby >stores. I am not sure you will find them big enough for your Salmson's >scale. >Of course, that would not be scratch-building. >Did you consider pin-heads? >regards >SSH > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:13:02 From: "Jim Landon" To: tskio4@home.com, wwi@wwi-models.org Cc: TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Rivets Message-ID: Hi Tom, <> Thanks, Tom, I'll have to look for it and try it. Jim >From: "Thomas Solinski" >To: >Subject: Re: [WWI] Rivets >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 08:31:39 -0600 > >Jim there is a r/c canopy glue called r/c-56, it is a very very thick white >glue. I understand the othe scale builders use this for rivets without it >spreading > >HTH > >tom S _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:19:13 From: "Jim Landon" To: janah@worldnet.att.net, wwi@wwi-models.org Cc: TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Rivets Message-ID: Hi Cyg, <> Thanks, I'll try again. Maybe I was just impatient or something. What tool do you use to apply a tiny drop? Jim _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:29:35 From: "Jim Landon" To: artybob@netexpress.net, wwi@wwi-models.org Cc: TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Rivets: Message-ID: Hi Bob, <<...get a kit of two part tubes of JB Weld...12 hour formula...>> Didn't know they had more than one speed. Mine says sets up in 4-6 hours, cures overnight. Will that work? I used it to glue the mustard bottle section onto the front of the Salmson. <<...also need a small amount of denatured alcohol...>> What a coincidence! I just bought more this afternoon! <<...mix about like consistancy of heavy syrup ... apply with a short length of the smallest brass wire ... dot the stuff on in very small dots and set aside...>> Thanks, Bob, I'll try it tonight with the JB Weld I have on hand. Thanks, Jim >From: Robert Horton >To: thegreatlandoni@hotmail.com >Subject: Rivets: >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:54:28 -0600 > >Making rivets...I can't claim this as original...came out of a hint in >Finescale Modeler...get a kit of two part tubes of JB Weld...12 hour >formula, a most any hardware store...comes in two tubes about the size >of your thumb for about $5.00.....also need a small amount of denatured >alcohol.....put out two small dabs about size of half of a pea on a >scrap of meta.... mix thoroughly, and then drip in a very small drop of >alcohol or until mix is about like consistancy of heavy syrup....this >you will have to play with....I then apply with a short length of the >smallest brass wire chucked up in a thumb drill handle...dot the stuff >on in very small dots and set aside, it will take about 6 - 8 hours >until you can handle them....I would try experimenting with liquid >consistancy on some scrap, and I also found that you can work for about >15-20 minutes and then may need to add a little more alky to thin again. >The brass wire works great cause it is rather stiff yet allows you to >bend an angle to get into tight places...I've had good luck on 1/35th >scale scratchbuilt artillery pieces which look like a sample of the >boiler makers art.....best of luck.....Bob Horton _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:46:42 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: Box art work for Eduards latest Roland Walfish Message-ID: <009801c1a225$dba38160$3b482dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> Just saw this.... http://kithobbyist.com/saw/WklyNews/2002/1-20-02/ed8042.jpg Cheers Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:11:35 -0500 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Hes baacckkk Message-ID: <001901c1a229$55feb800$0fe82341@tampabay.rr.com> Well the operastion was a failure, but the patient is still alive. I still can't get my machine to recognize the tape drive. All jumpers and connections exactly as per manual. Software installs to the point of asking me to re-boot. When it does, it tells me it doesn't see a tape drive and to check connections. All good. Tape spins when it's put in the drive, but the 'puter doesn't see it. I give up, its time to come up off my tight arse and pay some boffin to fix it. OT content: Managed to imortalize my fingerprints in some Future. They came off with some careful buffing. I suppose I could try giving Future 20 min to dry instead of 15 ;-) NWA (Now Whingering About): Scratching struts for the Rosemont Spad A.2 NL: BvB telling me "I told you so" about the fingerprints NU: A glass of scotch. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:45:54 -0500 From: "Marketing Group 12B" To: top49f Subject: Now Open To All #4FFD Message-ID: <200201210524.AAA38943@mustang.sr.unh.edu> This is a MIME Message ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0080_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0" ------=_NextPart_001_0080_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ***** This is an HTML Message ! ***** ------=_NextPart_001_0080_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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Click Here ------=_NextPart_001_0080_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0-- ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 05:32:10 From: "Jim Landon" To: thayes_52601@yahoo.com Cc: TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com, artybob@netexpress.net, wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: re: Rivets/Archer's Fine Transfers Message-ID: Hi Todd, No, I don't *THINK* I've heard of Archer's Fine Transfers, although I've used dry transfers for tiny lettering -- just don't know if they were Archer brand or not. Who sells them? However, I just tried the J-B Weld method suggested by Bob Horton and it works like a miracle! It shows no tendancy to flow out into a pool and the size of rivets is controlled by how much alcohol you add and what size tool you use to apply it. A piece of 0.015 inch piano wire produced tiny dots suitable for 1/72 and 1/48 models. A toothpick worked for my 1:16 scale. Thanks for the tip on the Archer's Fine Transfers. Jim >From: Todd Hayes >To: thegreatlandoni@hotmail.com >Subject: re: Rivets/Archer's Fine Transfers >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 17:30:27 -0800 (PST) > >Jim, > >Have you heard of Archer's Fine Transfers? They do >dry transfers in many scales. Rivets are available >from them. > >Todd _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 05:35:17 From: "Jim Landon" To: thayes_52601@yahoo.com, wwi@wwi-models.org Cc: TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com Subject: re:Archer's Fine Transfers Message-ID: Thanks again, Todd. -- Jim >From: Todd Hayes >To: thegreatlandoni@hotmail.com >Subject: re:Archer's Fine Transfers >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 17:42:35 -0800 (PST) > >Archer's Fine Transfers www.archertransfers.com > >Rivets down to .015". _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 05:43:33 From: "Jim Landon" To: krychski@earthlink.net, wwi@wwi-models.org Cc: TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Rivets Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_37cb_6e3a_35a3 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Thanks again, Karen. The J-B Weld method suggested by Bob Horton works like a miracle! It shows no tendancy to flow out into a pool and the size of rivets is controlled by how much alcohol you add and what size tool you use to apply it. A piece of 0.015 inch piano wire produced tiny dots suitable for 1/72 and 1/48 models. A toothpick worked for my 1:16 scale. Lots of great info from everybody. Jim >From: Karen Rychlewski >To: Jim Landon >Subject: Re: Rivets >Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:25:44 -0500 > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------=_NextPart_000_37cb_6e3a_35a3 Content-Type: message/rfc822 >From krychski@earthlink.net Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:32:13 -0800 Received: from [207.217.120.122] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id MHotMailBE14F2BF0030400437A8CFD9787AF1860; Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:31:45 -0800 Received: from 1cust117.tnt2.wheeling.wv.da.uu.net ([67.211.150.117] helo=earthlink.net) by pintail.mail.pas.earthlink.net with esmtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 16SX3V-0006De-00 for thegreatlandoni@hotmail.com; Sun, 20 Jan 2002 21:31:42 -0800 Message-ID: <3C4BA658.ABC50D3E@earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 00:25:44 -0500 From: Karen Rychlewski X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7C-CCK-MCD {C-UDP; EBM-APPLE} (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Jim Landon Subject: Re: Rivets References: Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey Jim
I used Grandt Line rivet heads on
my Thomas-Morse S4C.  None of their rivets are small enough.  They look like
golf ball halves on my Tommy.
In fact, Grandt Line does have rivets smaller than #155, which are  .043" conical. #153 are .043" round (which should be shorter, I think), and #153 are .032" round head--the last are pretty tiny.
<<4. This is really esoteric: someone on the list suggested buying a kitchen
faucet water filter cartridge and tearing it open to reveal gazillions of
tiny ceramic (I think) balls. Drill or punch a shallow hole where you want a
rivet head and drop the ball in it.>> Great idea.  What brand and model of
filter?
I don't have a clue and don't remember who it was that suggested this.

I'd be interested in your experience with the JB Weld epoxy if you try that one...

Karen ------=_NextPart_000_37cb_6e3a_35a3-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:09:06 -0800 From: Rory Goodwin To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: More Eduard Nieuport Questions Message-ID: <3C4BB081.46702D12@earthlink.net> Thanks for the response to my questions. If I'm not mistaken, the curved copper tubing going into the side of each cylinder from the back of the engine are the intake manifold/pipes. I have a metal Aeroclub Le Rhone with these cast as part of the engine. Can anyone tell me are they also injection-molded in the non-profi Nieuport Le Rhones, or are the engines in these kits just the crankase/cylinders without the PE intake pipes included? TIA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 06:04:07 From: "Jim Landon" To: artybob@netexpress.net Cc: TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com, wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Rivets from J-B Weld worked great Message-ID: Bob, As you will see in my emails to others, your J-B Weld suggestion worked like a champ. I really really appreciate the tip. Solves the rivet issue for me for the next 20 years. Wish I had known about it when I was building my Thomas-Morse. The test panel worked so well that I immediately proceeded to replace the rivets that I had clumsily sanded off while trying to blend in my "rivet rings", plus I went ahead and did the ring of rivets around the radiator opening on the front of the engine cowl, which I had previously marked with pin pricks. There was no way to do the Mylar rivet ring trick there, and I thought I might have to settle for just the pin pricks, but the tiny drops of J-B Weld look so much better. I kept adding denatured alcohol like you said, whenever the mixture seemed to be getting too thick. I can see how you could make rivets small enough for 1/48 planes, maybe even 1/72, with your trick. And it's a lot easier than trying to glue on tiny Grandt Line rivets like I did on my Tommy, and they were big, I can't imagine trying to do 0.015 Grandt Line rivets. It's past my bed time but I wanted to thank you immediately. Jim _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 16:45:52 +1000 From: "D Charles" To: Subject: Washout was:RE: Aircraft dimensions Message-ID: <00f801c1a247$45897aa0$fa3832d2@Charls> Mike, Washout, being the reduced angle of incidence along the wing or prop, would result in "higher" trailing edge. Here's a simplified way to measure washout on older aeroplanes still in current use. Jack up the aeroplane until the longitudinal axis is horizontal. Use a straight edge and inclinometer along the outer wing measure points specified for that aeroplane e.g., strut fittings, and compare that with the wing root incidence. Washout can be changed by turning the turnbuckles on the landing wires. Note that some aeroplanes had the same incidence throughout their length and had the ailerons set in a slightly raised position and some (Be2c) had the ailerons rigged with a droop of 1/2 inch: washin. David > > On a related note - does anyone know whether the current standard > is to measure washout from the leading edge, the trailing edge, or at > a spar location? I'm wondering if just the trailing edge would drop, > or if the leading edge might be angled higher than the dihedral. > > Mike F. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 23:58:36 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Russian Semi-OT Ship Site Message-ID: <20020121075836.19926.qmail@web11107.mail.yahoo.com> I came across this site tonight that might be of interest. Ships and Models, located in Tver, Russia, the ancient Russian city, and onetime rival of Moscow. URL http://modelyard.narod.ru __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:42:35 -0000 From: Tom Gourdie To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Pegasus decals? Message-ID: Neil I like Pegasus decals in terms of subject matter - and I cannot complain about their lozenge - but in one of my rare forays into 1/72 (the Aeroclub Bristol Scout) I tried their early British markings - Union Flags and all that - but they stuck like limpets as soon as I applied them. I couldn't move them at all and they only stripped off after serious immersion in a bowl of warm soapy water. I might have had a faulty sheet but I will think twice before using Pegasus again, although for some reason the lozenge stuff hasn't given any problems. I know that this isn't a direct reply to your query about colour accuracy, translucency etc but I feel it is worth alerting you to what I consider to be a quality issue. HTH Tom -----Original Message----- From: Neil Crawford [mailto:neil.crawford@swipnet.se] Sent: 20 January 2002 21:45 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] Pegasus decals? Hi, How are Pegasus decals? Can you use them without a white backing? I might use them on my Spad 12, but apart from the translucency thing I have another worry. Anders has done my Fonck decals quite a bright red, I asked for that because I don't quite believe in all these brown french roundels. I think people have been complaining about the blue-grey centres, but how realistic are these brown outer rings, I'm doing Foncks as a new a/c so brighter red? It will probably end up with that dreaded roundel painting, and I recently swore not to do that again:-( In that case I only need to do the white and red, I can use the Pegasus blue-grey centres, what was wrong with blue-grey anyway? /Neil C. Nb: Spad 12 Pegasus hybrid 1/72 Nu: I'm in that delightful state of being nearly finished, and can seriously think about what next, I will have 2.5 months to the Swedish Nat's, and the hot favorite is twin-boomed and ot....... (gasp, shock, distress) This message is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient please notify us immediately. You may not copy it or use this message for any purpose or disclose its contents to any other person or take any action based on them. E-Mails are susceptible to interference. UCAS accepts no responsibility for information, errors or omissions in this e-mail nor for its use or misuse nor for any act committed or omitted in connection with this communication. If in doubt, please verify the authenticity of the contents with the sender. ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4090 **********************