WWI Digest 4083 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Another decale idea by tbittners@sprintmail.com 2) Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some by "Ross Moorhouse" 3) Re: Another decale idea by "Bob Pearson" 4) Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some by "Bob Pearson" 5) Re: -A-M-P by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 6) Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some by PetersList@aol.com 7) =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=2020Bertra=DF=20Albatros,=20Jasta=2030?= by "Lance Krieg" 8) Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam by "Hans Trauner" 9) Re: French Roundels - was: Hello - Salmson decals by "Lance Krieg" 10) Re: Ni 17 ammo box question by "Lance Krieg" 11) Re: 20Bertra=?ISO-8859-1?B?3w==?= Albatros, Jasta 30 by "Bob Pearson" 12) Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some by "Ross Moorhouse" 13) Re: Depth of field by David Fleming 14) Re: French Roundels - was: Hello - Salmson decals by Shane Weier 15) Engine Drawings by "Graham Hunter" 16) RE: Roundels and painting by Shane Weier 17) RE: New addition by Shane Weier 18) Re: Engine Drawings by PetersList@aol.com 19) =?ISO-8859-1?Q?20Re:=2020Bertra=DF=20Albatros,=20Jasta=203?= by "Lance Krieg" 20) MUSEUM by =?iso-8859-1?Q?Martin_H=E9ctor_AFFLITTO_ECHAG=FCE?= 21) Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam by "Lee M." 22) Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some by Shane Weier 23) Re: MUSEUM by "Tom Plesha" 24) Re: Engine Drawings by "mdf@mars.ark.com" 25) Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam by john@huggins-leahey.com (John Huggins) 26) Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam by Shane Weier 27) Lozenge color help please (long) by Mark Miller 28) Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam by Ray Boorman ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 15:55:43 -0500 (EST) From: tbittners@sprintmail.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Another decale idea Message-ID: <20020117205543.C13F646866@eclipse.qis.net> On Thu, 17 Jan 2002 15:51:10 -0500 (EST), Bob Pearson wrote: > Fratz contains the cowl, fuselage trim, name and tailplane stripes. no > crosses or fuselage bands What, no lozenge to fit either the Eduard or the Roden kit? Slacker. :-) Matt Bittner been there, done that, finished the model ;-) (although I do want to do it over...) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 07:59:16 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some Message-ID: <004101c19f99$d330fbe0$3b482dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> You are a better man than me.. But you could buy AZUR's Romeo Ro-37bis as it has P.E. wire spoked wheels in it. Just a thought. :-) Cheers Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:53 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some | In a message dated 17/01/02 20:37:27 GMT Standard Time, | rossmoor@bigpond.net.au writes: | | << http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk/framesetpm.html >> | | Thanks Ross. I just want to have a go to see if I can do it . | | | cheers | | Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:02:15 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Another decale idea Message-ID: <101130143401@smtp.vphos.net> I could do the lozenge .. but that would add $50 to the price just for the aggravation of getting it lined up. I only have the Eduard and Aeroclub kits Bob ---------- >From: tbittners@sprintmail.com >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Re: Another decale idea >Date: Thu, Jan 17, 2002, 12:58 pm > > On Thu, 17 Jan 2002 15:51:10 -0500 (EST), Bob Pearson wrote: > >> Fratz contains the cowl, fuselage trim, name and tailplane stripes. no >> crosses or fuselage bands > > What, no lozenge to fit either the Eduard or the Roden kit? Slacker. :-) > > > Matt Bittner > been there, done that, finished the model ;-) (although I do want to do it > over...) > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:02:35 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some Message-ID: <101130145301@smtp.vphos.net> Peter says .. > Thanks Ross. I just want to have a go to see if I can do it . And that is my whole philosophy on scratchbuilding Bob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:09:25 EST From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: Re: -A-M-P Message-ID: I believe Lubos said he would post an announcement to the list when he was ready to do business again. FWIW, Mike Kavanaugh In a message dated Thu, 17 Jan 2002 2:19:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, KnnthS@aol.com writes: > VAMP-O-Riffic > > when somebody knows, will they throw it out on de list? > > spotting aircraft til then- > a concerned lister ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:10:27 EST From: PetersList@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some Message-ID: <6.2282d938.297897c3@aol.com> In a message dated 17/01/02 21:01:11 GMT Standard Time, rossmoor@bigpond.net.au writes: << But you could buy AZUR's Romeo Ro-37bis as it has P.E. wire spoked wheels in it. Just a thought. :-) >> Wrong scale, I want to have a go in 1/32 to get the idea. Tom's Model Works etch set in that scale looks great if I screw up, a not altogether unlikely outcome, but I really should have a go first cheers Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:28:26 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=2020Bertra=DF=20Albatros,=20Jasta=2030?= Message-ID: Someone in Windsock (Dave Roberts?) gave a very cogent argument for a red/yellow comet on black. Note the light-colored dandelions on the ground in the picture; ergo non-ortho film. But I certainly don't want to stir up any debate; I'm merely reporting! Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 22:16:56 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam Message-ID: <003d01c19f9c$4b3eb580$d4ab72d4@FRITZweb> I don't give up the hope! A friend of mine got a new Minolta which goes up to f11 or so, but the problem is to control it And another problem is that this small screen were you watch your objects is also not very sharp. At it's around 1500 / 2000 $. H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Laskodi" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 9:45 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam > <<>> > Good luck finding one! AFAIK, there are no digicams that go to f22 and I > doubt you will be seeing any within the next five-ten years in your price > range! Bottom line, my experience with my Nikon 990 (f11.1) produces > comparable results (regarding depth of field) as my Nikon SLR that does > shoot at f22. Of course, YMMV! > ----------Bob > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:38:39 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: French Roundels - was: Hello - Salmson decals Message-ID: sp asks: "Has anyone tried spraying red on white decal paper ..." Needing exceptionally large British roundels recently, I did the following: 1. Sprayed a white base on a piece of decal film. 2. Used an OLFA cutter to mask the white with Frisket 3. Sprayed the outer blue circle 4. Used the OLFA to cut the roundel out 5. Sprayed a separate piece of decal paper with the central red 6. Cut out the red dot, and applied over the other two. Because the roundel was so large, I could use the OLFA to get the center dot. Smaller ones could be gotten with a punch, or even by carefully scribing around a circular template. It wasn't too bad. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:55:59 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Ni 17 ammo box question Message-ID: Stef works on the Eduard 1/48 kit: I've been done the road you're on, and the parts are quite good compared to pictures in WWIAero and elsewhere. The spent-casing chute is directly aft of the box, made of aluminum, and the wider dimension should face fore-and-aft. It is best glued to the cockpit floor. The reel takeup panel is on the port fuselage wall, and is made of plywood, unpainted in pictures I have seen. This part is also fine in the kit. And none of them are visible when you finish. I went to some wasted extra work on the chute and the floor; spare yourself the effort. The picture at : http://132.177.241.68/Images/Krieg/French/nie17_4.jpg is based on considerable research, and can guide you in the assembly, perhaps. Hope that helps... Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:17:56 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: 20Bertra=?ISO-8859-1?B?3w==?= Albatros, Jasta 30 Message-ID: <101130237501@smtp.vphos.net> The funny thing about that was, the same month he did that article, we also did the one at my site .. and I never saw the WS article until I got my $800 worth of WS items a few months back .. Bob (who is still wondering who Dave Roberts is. . I never heard of him before the D.VII Anthology and suddenly he is all over the place) ---------- >From: "Lance Krieg" >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Re: 20Bertraß Albatros, Jasta 30 >Date: Thu, Jan 17, 2002, 1:14 pm > > Someone in Windsock (Dave Roberts?) gave a very cogent argument for > a red/yellow comet on black. > > Note the light-colored dandelions on the ground in the picture; > ergo non-ortho film. > > But I certainly don't want to stir up any debate; I'm merely reporting! > > Lance ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:23:49 +1100 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some Message-ID: <008b01c19f9d$41542540$3b482dcb@nsw.bigpond.net.au> I see, the scale that old age people on a pension model in... Ross ducking for cover as the walking sticks come flying in.. ;-) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 8:12 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some | In a message dated 17/01/02 21:01:11 GMT Standard Time, | rossmoor@bigpond.net.au writes: | | << But you could buy AZUR's Romeo Ro-37bis as it | has P.E. wire spoked wheels in it. Just a thought. :-) | >> | | Wrong scale, I want to have a go in 1/32 to get the idea. Tom's Model Works | etch set in that scale looks great if I screw up, a not altogether unlikely | outcome, but I really should have a go first | | cheers | | | Peter L | ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 21:20:13 +0000 From: David Fleming To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Depth of field Message-ID: <3C47400D.BA2D51F8@dial.pipex.com> If you've got an SLR lens with the depth of field/apeture marks on the focus barrel you can use the hyper focus technique to get it all in. if only I could remember how !! Dave ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:13:46 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: French Roundels - was: Hello - Salmson decals Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCDA59@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Neil says: > > I've used a (borrowed) punch set to make (in my case red) > > roundel centres for > > 1/144th models. > > Good idea, but they're too small for french 1/72 roundels. > You lucky b-----r building british aircraft;-) My roundel manufacturing techniques - Big circles or rings - Olfa cutter Teensy dots - punch & die set Anything else - use the sharpened end of a section of brass tubing of appropriate diameter as a home made punch. I have a selection of about 20 sizes now, which with the leather punch, punch and die set and Olfa cutter solves most problems. Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:17:32 -0600 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: Engine Drawings Message-ID: <000e01c19fa4$c4a6c040$770101c0@ghunter> List, I have found the web site that has some WWI engine drawings. This was posted about 1 1/2 to 2 years ago by someone. Here it is again... http://mars.ark.com/~mdj/motor.html Regards, Graham ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:19:58 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Roundels and painting Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCDA5A@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Mark says: > The device used to bore holes in corks and stoppers, called, > amazingly, a cork borer, may be just what you are looking for. > > This can be purchased in a set that goes from about 3mm up to > about 20-25mm. Each borer is a brass or steel tube, > sharpened at one end and the other with a 'T' handle. The > whole set nests together. Oops. Professionally manufactured version of my box of tube fragments. Betcha can't cut ovals with them though ;-) (choose brass tube of appropriate diameter, sharpen end, crimp to shape - this is how I make control gland patches from prepainted decal) Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:38:17 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: New addition Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCDA5B@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Pedro says > > Mind you, your desk needs a tidy up ;-) > > What do you mean?????!!!!!! I was careful to tidy it al up > before taking the picture.... > Uh oh.... > > A couple of years ago we visited Len in London and I had to > listen to her > for a whole month.... "see... why can't you just be as > organised and Len... everything so tidy and clean... Probably too late now, but you should have tipped Len the wink - and had him "admit" that it had been cleaned specially for your visit. > Women.... > Well, there are exceptions.... Yes. My wife's craft area is many times messier than my bench! And that's *bad* > Better shut up now..... Dangerous media, the Internet. You never know when someone else may be listening..... Shane > ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 17:51:47 EST From: PetersList@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Engine Drawings Message-ID: <33.20efea7c.2978af83@aol.com> In a message dated 17/01/02 22:19:57 GMT Standard Time, mbpw0220@mts.net writes: << http://mars.ark.com/~mdj/motor.html >> The link doesn't work Graham Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:00:54 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?20Re:=2020Bertra=DF=20Albatros,=20Jasta=203?= Message-ID: Bob is: "... still wondering who Dave Roberts is..." Yeah, he sort of emerged out of nowhere... like Venus from the waves. But the red/yellow argument made sense. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:41:11 -0300 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Martin_H=E9ctor_AFFLITTO_ECHAG=FCE?= To: "WWI Lista" Subject: MUSEUM Message-ID: <004601c1a015$06f28900$2ba7e818@fibertel.com.ar> Hi!!!! Get our aeronautical museum http://www.faa.mil.ar/historia/sinopsisa.html it's from ARGENTINA Martin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:25:45 -0600 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam Message-ID: <3C476B89.EF36F5ED@x25.net> With the really short focal length of the digital lenses they are quite sharp over a wide range and have a pretty good depth of field for normal distances. My camera will focus to 3/10th of an inch. Haven't gone there yet, but, one of my friends accidently set his camera down on a scarf and it took a photo of nickel laying on the table next to it. Pretty good looking nickel.. Lee M. Laskodi wrote: > > <<>> > Good luck finding one! AFAIK, there are no digicams that go to f22 and I > doubt you will be seeing any within the next five-ten years in your price > range! Bottom line, my experience with my Nikon 990 (f11.1) produces > comparable results (regarding depth of field) as my Nikon SLR that does > shoot at f22. Of course, YMMV! > ----------Bob ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:40:31 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: wire wheels.. you spoke some Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCDA5D@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Bob says: > > Thanks Ross. I just want to have a go to see if I can do it . > > > And that is my whole philosophy on scratchbuilding There's no better IMO Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 19:52:14 -0500 From: "Tom Plesha" To: Subject: Re: MUSEUM Message-ID: <000501c19fba$6099a520$2cfdfa18@mcmb1.mi.home.com> Hi Martin- Very nice. Later Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin Héctor AFFLITTO ECHAGüE" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 7:43 PM Subject: [WWI] MUSEUM > Hi!!!! > Get our aeronautical museum > http://www.faa.mil.ar/historia/sinopsisa.html > > it's from ARGENTINA > > Martin > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 20:42:17 -0500 From: "mdf@mars.ark.com" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Engine Drawings Message-ID: <3C477D79.FC23BDA6@mars.ark.com> It would be mdf instead of mdj - and more (ie RR) will be getting posted shortly (especially since I just quit my day job). Mike F. Graham Hunter wrote: > > List, > > I have found the web site that has some WWI engine drawings. This was posted > about 1 1/2 to 2 years ago by someone. > > Here it is again... http://mars.ark.com/~mdj/motor.html > > Regards, Graham ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 20:19:33 -0600 From: john@huggins-leahey.com (John Huggins) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam Message-ID: >It works, thanks. > >Your pics highlight the problem. They are showing a I-16, a relative short >a/c. And there are depth-of-field problems, if you look close and if you are >a little bit nit-picking. What I want to have is *perfect* sharpness from >one end of the wing to the other. In 1/48 scale. I know.... the need for >depth of field would be smaller if I would make 1/72... > >I want to have f22. Not maximum f8, with no way to control it. The smaller the lens opening, the larger the depth of field. To get good focus on any model subject, get your self a pin hole adaptor for your camera and do some testing. with time shots. You will also need a tripod for the camera, but you can get excellent depth of field, like from 3 inches to infinity. Look at the cover of any model railroad mag. The layouts are in focus from the edge closest to the viewer all the way to the other end of the table. JP ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:28:23 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCDA5F@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> John H says: > The smaller the lens opening, the larger the depth of field. To get > good focus on any model subject, get your self a pin hole adaptor for > your camera and do some testing. with time shots. You will also need > a tripod for the camera, but you can get excellent depth of field, > like from 3 inches to infinity. Look at the cover of any model > railroad mag. The layouts are in focus from the edge closest to the > viewer all the way to the other end of the table. Good thought. And a digital camera won't suffer from reciprocity failure either :-) Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: 17 Jan 2002 18:51:28 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Lozenge color help please (long) Message-ID: <20020118025128.6599.cpmta@c016.snv.cp.net> Hi Ever since I found that Munsell converter I’ve been on a quest to get some kind of idea what the “right” colors are for the 5 color lozenge scheme. I have Munsell numbers from NASM, the German Museum (thanks Hans) and the ones from the datafiles (posted on the site) – I ran them through the converter and took the RGB values and plugged them into PhotoShop and generated color images for the top and bottom schemes. I’m sorry to say – they are all VERY different – and I can detect almost no commonality, which would at least point in the right direction. So – I took a different approach and generated color swatches based on some photos and scans I have. For one set of colors I used Hans’s Halberstadt photos which are posted on the WW1 modelers site. Good news is that they are a fairly close match to the Munsell colors from the German Museum, which I believe were taken off the same AC in the photos. Not a perfect match but at least the basic hues and value structure is similar – which leads me to believe that the converter might be giving good values. But, still the colors from the different samples are all over the place. So I decided to forget the hues and just try to verify the values – which color are darker and which lighter. I have an original photograph of the Albatros Dva with the “Blitz” markings. It has nosed over and the left wing is a little crumpled – but you get a clear, well-lit view of the upper lozenge scheme. I scanned the photo and eliminated everything but the wing and then twitched it into something close to a planar view so I could get a good look at the lozenge. I ran a median filter on it and tried to get representative value samples from each lozenge color. Here in order of darkest to lightest are the values I got off the photo matched to their color: 1 blue-green, 2 ocher, 3 green, 4 purple, 5 blue Am I the only one flabbergasted by this?? Ocher is the second darkest color!! Only thing I expected was that blue-green would be the darkest – But all the rest run against conventional wisdom. Only explanation could be the infamous effect of Ortho film. So I then took my color lozenge samples and ran a sequence of commands which is supposed to simulate the effects of Ortho film which was posted by Finn over at the Aerodrome. Works like this: In PhotoShop go to Image, adjust, Channel mixer then set the red to 0% and the green and blue to 50%. Then put a tick in the “monochrome” box at the bottom of the screen. I then adjusted the brightness and contrast so that I had a range, which was approximately equal to the values I got off the photo. When I compared these values to the ones I derived from the photo they still didn’t match – not even close. I’m not sure what to think – there is certainly a lot room for error in my methods, and we are talking about dyed fabric, which could have varied a lot fresh out of the textile factory. But I can’t imagine this would explain away everything So could somebody help me out here? I would especially appreciate some input from anybody familiar with the effects of Ortho film. BTW – I expect 2 more sets of color samples soon – maybe that will help – I hope so And thanks to Mark Shannon and all the rest of you who have tolerated my annoying requests for opinions. The plan is to post the data when it’s finished Mark Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 19:16:36 -0800 From: Ray Boorman To: Subject: Re: Depth of field wasRe: My digital cam Message-ID: <20020118031715.JALU3508.priv-edtnes16-hme0.telusplanet.net@ray> Of course one thing about digital cameras that is really usefull and saves a heck of a lot of money is the fact that idiots like me can keep taking photos until we get one that looks good. Also the Nikon coolpix 880 I have seems to have decent depth of field down to 1 inch or so. Any problems that I have are usually my hamhandedness. Another way of looking at this is that I can experiment by trial and error which for me is the way I learn. 1 photo in 30 on a digital costs nothing after the initial investment. 1 in 30 on a normal camera costs me a fortune and tends to discourage me from taking pictures which then means I never get any better at taking pictures. Just a different slant on this thread. Ray On Thu, 17 Jan 2002 20:11:02 -0500 (EST), Lee M. wrote: >With the really short focal length of the digital lenses they are >quite >sharp over a wide range and have a pretty good depth of field for >normal >distances. > >My camera will focus to 3/10th of an inch. Haven't gone there yet, >but, >one of my friends accidently set his camera down on a scarf and it >took >a photo of nickel laying on the table next to it. > >Pretty good looking nickel.. > >Lee M. > >Laskodi wrote: >> >> <<>> >> Good luck finding one! AFAIK, there are no digicams that go to f22 >>and I >> doubt you will be seeing any within the next five-ten years in >>your price >> range! Bottom line, my experience with my Nikon 990 (f11.1) >>produces >> comparable results (regarding depth of field) as my Nikon SLR that >>does >> shoot at f22. Of course, YMMV! >> ----------Bob > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4083 **********************