WWI Digest 4072 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Red or orange-yellow? by Crawford Neil 2) RE: Aircraft dimensions by Crawford Neil 3) RE: How Many Times? by "Diego Fernetti" 4) Re: Red or orange-yellow? by KnnthS@aol.com 5) RE: How Many Times? by Crawford Neil 6) Re: Humbrol Satin(ish) Varnish by KnnthS@aol.com 7) Re: Teaching resource + cartoon by "Diego Fernetti" 8) RE: How Many Times? by "Diego Fernetti" 9) RE: Red or orange-yellow? by KnnthS@aol.com 10) RE: How Many Times? by Crawford Neil 11) Re: you know you're a modeler when.... by KnnthS@aol.com 12) Re: you know you're a modeler when.... by Crawford Neil 13) Re: Aircraft dimensions by "Mark Shannon" 14) 中国足球彩票网 by webmaster@zgzcw.com 15) RE: How Many Times? by "ibs4421" 16) Spandaus, . . again! by "ibs4421" 17) Re: Spandaus, . . again! by KnnthS@aol.com 18) RE: Spandaus, . . again! by Crawford Neil 19) RE: Spandaus, . . again! by "ibs4421" 20) RE: Spandaus, . . again! by Crawford Neil 21) Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. by "Graham Hunter" 22) Re: Spandaus, . . again! by "ot811" 23) RE: Spandaus, . . again! by "ibs4421" 24) Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. by "ibs4421" 25) RE: Spandaus, . . again! by KnnthS@aol.com 26) RE: Spandaus, . . again! by Crawford Neil 27) Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. by KnnthS@aol.com 28) RE: Red or orange-yellow? by "Laskodi" 29) Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. by "Graham Hunter" 30) Never Again (x2) by PetersList@aol.com 31) Re: Spandaus, . . again! by "Brian Nicklas" 32) RE: Red or Yellow by mflake@tarrantcounty.com (Flake, Marc) 33) RE: Spandaus, . . again! by Volker Haeusler 34) RE: Red or Yellow by KnnthS@aol.com 35) Re: Books on flying early aircraft, construction, etc by "Lee M." 36) RE: Spandaus, . . again! by John_Impenna@hyperion.com 37) Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. by "ibs4421" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:27:57 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Red or orange-yellow? Message-ID: It came out orange here, I thought you were being clever! /Neil C. Is it showing up red on > others' monitors? > > Marc > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:35:39 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Aircraft dimensions Message-ID: Tom wrote: >This must seem a very basic question but when the height of an aircraft is >provided in a table of dimensions what are the measuring reference points >ie, is it the height of the airframe or the height to the tip of the >vertically postioned propellor or is it influenced by the attitude of the >aircraft ie, sitting on its tailskid or in an in-flight attitude? >Probably a silly question but its been niggling me...! It's one of the most important questions, and I don't think there is a good answer. There should be some kind of understanding amongst aviation historians, but I don't even know that. Amongst manufacturers I am sure it was pure anarchy, it depended on whether you wanted to sell a big aeroplane or a small one. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:51:42 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: How Many Times? Message-ID: Steve wrote: >The finished kit part is something you >may have graciously improved or it may be the kit's barely acceptable >rendering. You can always say "I built it OOB" Not so with a scratchbuilt, >What they see is what you built, so you do as many attempts as necessary >till you are satisfied with the part. I've read somewhere that when you're modifying a kit (in the learning to become a full scratchbuilder) your aim is to make a scratchbuilt part that's an improvement over the supplied part that it replaces. If not, you may try again. D. from abroad... _________________________________________________________________ Join the world抯 largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:04:15 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Red or orange-yellow? Message-ID: Fraser writes: <<..make this the first shot on the roll so they can calibrate on it...you can leave the card with them, for that matter..>> << I find that Fuji films generally seem to be warm...My current favouite is Kodak Supra 100, good grain and accurate colour balance. >> Looks like excellent advice. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 13:05:59 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: How Many Times? Message-ID: > D. > from abroad... > Abroad compared to where? I agree with you that if you can't improve on a kit part there is no point scratchbuilding it. I don't know if I'm odd, particuarly clever or unusually careless, but I usually make a part once. When crash moulding or making cockpit canopies I do a batch and choose the best one, otherwise once is usually enough. This might have something to do with my 90% life philosophy, I believe the remaining 10% is a waste of time. Scratch building takes such a long time that trying to be 100% perfect will probably drive you mad in the process, nobody will notice the difference, and you're probably going to botch up the painting anyway, and that is all the judges look at, so I'd say if a part looks half good, bang it on and get on with the rest of the job. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:07:30 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Humbrol Satin(ish) Varnish Message-ID: <16a.72e848d.29757582@aol.com> Fraser writes: << It's automotive stuff. >> Posted something the other day about "thinking outside the hobby store"... For people that use floor polish for varnish, this shouldn't be a stretch. There are a variety of over-the counter sheen adjusters avail. @ paint stores, as in house paint. I would think Art Stores would have similar products if one asked. The burnish-til-sheeny is just cool. Neat trick. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:16:25 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Teaching resource + cartoon Message-ID: Tom dedicated me: >+ 1 for Diego whenever he comes back. >http://www.spartacus.schoolnet.co.uk/FWWzeppelinF.htm Nice cartoon! I'm always delighted to see those old cartoons from the early XXth century, even when their "sense" of humour was a bit different from today, the drawings, design and art of these pieces is always of high quality. Think on "Little Nemo in Slumberland" for instance. To me, the only modern cartoonist that can be compared to the oldies is Bill Watterson of Calvin and Hobbes. I like Gary Larson too, but just for the jokes he makes,not the clumsy drawings. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:48:05 +0000 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: How Many Times? Message-ID: Neil! >Abroad compared to where? My usual battle station (I'm chez Wanda right now, and now she's trying to unglue me from the computer screen and the new Casirati pictures... just one more minute, Wanda!) >Scratch building takes such a long time that trying to be >100% perfect will probably drive you mad in the process, So I should try that sooner or later... D. PS: I want to thank to Grzes M. on this forum as he sent me a most wonderful Lohner kit as a gift. It was an unknown model to me and I'll spend many enjoyable hours researching it! THANKS A LOT GRZES!!!!!! _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:58:19 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Red or orange-yellow? Message-ID: <3f.4f0d2b6.2975816b@aol.com> Neil & Marc writes: << It came out orange here, >> I feex- -Chico Marx ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 14:09:33 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: How Many Times? Message-ID: > (I'm chez Wanda right now, and now > she's trying to > unglue me from the computer screen and the new Casirati > pictures... just one > more minute, Wanda!) You'll need more than a minute for that, they're wonderful. > > >Scratch building takes such a long time that trying to be > >100% perfect will probably drive you mad in the process, > > So I should try that sooner or later... > D. You are already mad, you don't need to;-) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:17:48 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: you know you're a modeler when.... Message-ID: Neil writes: << You'll need more than a minute for that, they're wonderful. >> I'd dizzy up the girl--you can get good reference anytime. -Elvis ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 14:22:24 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: you know you're a modeler when.... Message-ID: He's right you know Diego, go and pay attention to Wanda, look at Albertos pictures when you get back to work! /Neil C. Ken-Elvis wrote: > I'd dizzy up the girl--you can get good reference anytime. > > -Elvis > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:35:42 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Aircraft dimensions Message-ID: Tom wrote: >This must seem a very basic question but when the height of an aircraft is >provided in a table of dimensions what are the measuring reference points >ie, is it the height of the airframe or the height to the tip of the >vertically postioned propellor or is it influenced by the attitude of the >aircraft ie, sitting on its tailskid or in an in-flight attitude? >Probably a silly question but its been niggling me...! Not a silly question and one that can cause some virtual space knock-down-drag-out fights when new model kits issue. I don't think there is any 'international standard' for measuring dimensions on these or several other objects in the world. An engineer, looking at the plans, would probably use the same kind of measurements that he would on a ship - 'between perpendiculars' from the nose of the fuselage itself to the rudder post, and overall. Probably both of them taken along the axis line of the aircraft fuselage. The Naval or base architect/engineer would probably be more interested in measuring outside dimensions as the aircraft sits on its gear, for determining storage space needs, clearances, etc. Height might be measured in either the 'horizontal' or gear sitting position, and might or might not take into account suspension travel under a full load or the propellor tip in its highest travel. And then, there are always antennae and aerial posts, that might be the highest thing in the horizontal position but lower than the tip of a prop or the leading edge of the upper wing when in the ground sitting position. Add whether the wings are measured for material length purposes, or overall dimensions, so that the extra couple of inches they would have when straight are hidden from an as the crow flies dimension by dihedral or gull planform. And one final note, what are the weather conditions and which aircraft is it. The former is important with these wood and linen aircraft, where even doped and varnished materials swell enough to change the last few inches in overall dimensions. The latter is very important with the hand-built WWI mass production, where tolerances were set more by craftspersons than stamping machines. If someone tells you that a model is off by one or two scale inches in overall dimensions, kindly deposit said person, and their reference materials, in their personal orifice that they seem so intent on being retentive about. A scale foot or more, then they might have an argument or you may have a model that was based on a variant and a thesis research project is born. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:41:16 From: webmaster@zgzcw.com To: wwi@mustang.sr.unh.edu Subject: 中国足球彩票网 Message-ID: <200201151300.VAA17388@public.hbpta.hb.cn> 中国足球彩票网

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------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:02:04 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: RE: How Many Times? Message-ID: <004201c19dcd$38cb7940$843dfad1@dwfjv01> Diego, You asked me to contact you off-list last week, and I have done so twice at your lordfernetti address. I haven't heard anything back, and was worried if you have even gotten my messages. Contact me off list. Apologies to the list for the ot bandwidth. Warren ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:12:58 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: <006a01c19dce$bcde65c0$843dfad1@dwfjv01> Folks, I am not at all pleased with how my styrene and PE Spandaus have turned out with my Fok. F.1, and that is no surprise, as I have never worked with something like this before. Now, that is no problem, for there area a number of aftermarket 1/72nd scale Spandaus available, and practice makes perfect, right?? Now, from where I sit, it seems there are three makers of these "devils paintbrushes": CSM, Fotocut, and Tom's Modelworks. What I would like to know from ya'll is which of these is the easiest to work with? I plan on buying several to practice on (i.e.: mess up), and I suppose that out of the bunch I may even come out with a few for use on future models. I've got a birthday coming up, and SWMBO is wanting a wish list. What oh what am I gonna ask for? I'm thinking an Ott-Lite and/or an Opti-Visor would help me immensely with the Spandaus. Warren ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:19:33 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: <159.756bc10.29759475@aol.com> Warren warrants: << Tom's Modelworks. >> go tin all the way. can't imagine doing a roll round the jig in 72. do the rest with the devil's drybrush... IMHO (H= hamfisted) Ken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:20:04 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: Warren wrote: > Now, from where I sit, it seems there are three makers of > these "devils > paintbrushes": CSM, Fotocut, and Tom's Modelworks. Just as a curiosity IPMS-USA issued a set during the early 80's, I have these and they are very nice. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:28:29 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: RE: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: <007401c19dd0$e78e36e0$843dfad1@dwfjv01> > Just as a curiosity IPMS-USA issued a set during the early 80's, > I have these and they are very nice. > /Neil C. Neil, That's great, however that doesn't help me much almost 20 years after the fact. :) Warren ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:29:30 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: I know, I was just boasting;-) /Neil C. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:35:43 -0600 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. Message-ID: <000001c19dd1$e9dbb3e0$770101c0@ghunter> Neil Wrote; < To: Subject: Re: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: <002101c19dd2$456e6400$0101a8c0@delos> Warren, I have built the CSM Lewis, the Tom-MW Spandau, and seen the Fotocut Spandau. In my opinion: - Tom's MW is easier to work than CSM, but about same as Fotocut - Tom's MW has better detail than Fotocut. regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:39:45 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: RE: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: <007e01c19dd2$7a7eae20$843dfad1@dwfjv01> Well Neil, if I could jump into Peabody's "Wayback Machine" I could get some, but why waste a trip for PE Spandaus? I'd keep on truckin' to Voss' 'drome and solve the mystery once and fer all! Warren ----- Original Message ----- From: "Crawford Neil" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 8:32 AM Subject: [WWI] RE: Spandaus, . . again! > I know, I was just boasting;-) > /Neil C. > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:43:02 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. Message-ID: <008a01c19dd2$efdcc300$843dfad1@dwfjv01> Lee, as usual, teaches me a great deal by writing this: > The exhaust goes directly into the air inside the Cowling and then the > unburned Castroil drips for hours after the plane lands. > > So there are no exhaust systems to be found or seen. > > Not a point for argument. They simply do not exist. > OK Fellers, you could put my knowledge of rotaries on the head of a pin. The above being stated and taken as fact, my question is this: What are those two holes/outlets/pipe thingees on each side of the fuselage of a Dr.1 for? Slowly Becoming Less Ignorant, Warren ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:42:31 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: <108.bb37f85.297599d7@aol.com> Warren ventures: << Peabody's "Wayback Machine" I could get some, but why waste a trip for PE Spandaus? I'd keep on truckin' to Voss' 'drome and solve the mystery once and fer all! >> There's a man wot got 'is 'ead on 'is shoulders. -Sherman ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:43:44 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: Marc's solved that, it was orange! /Neil C. > -----Original Message----- > From: ibs4421 [mailto:ibs4421@commandnet.net] > Sent: den 15 januari 2002 15:39 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] RE: Spandaus, . . again! > > > Well Neil, if I could jump into Peabody's "Wayback Machine" I > could get > some, but why waste a trip for PE Spandaus? I'd keep on > truckin' to Voss' > 'drome and solve the mystery once and fer all! > > Warren > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:46:36 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. Message-ID: <9b.212f86bc.29759acc@aol.com> In a message dated 15/1/02 6:43:16 am, ibs4421@commandnet.net writes: << What are those two holes/outlets/pipe thingees on each side of the fuselage of a Dr.1 for? >> this is all about breathing: carbs breathe in--pipe thingies---check a sopwith camel kit and out the backdoor--Lee's School Lee? Ken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 06:48:51 -0800 From: "Laskodi" To: "WWI List Post" Subject: RE: Red or orange-yellow? Message-ID: <000d01c19dd3$bff74c40$493819d0@f4hn201> <<>> Good luck in finding a photo developer in the USA who will do this. Unfortunately, all the "old" mom & pop photo stores who develop film are gone, forced out of business by chain "mega" stores who employees only know how to put a roll of film in the developing machine. All the more reason to go digital! ---------Bob ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:53:39 -0600 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. Message-ID: <000501c19dd4$6bafde80$770101c0@ghunter> Warren, Those pipes are air intakes and you will see them in the same area as the Dr.I on most rotary powered A/C. DOH not put exhaust stains by these as I did on my first WWI build (Sopwith Tripe). HTH, Graham ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:52:37 EST From: PetersList@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Never Again (x2) Message-ID: <95.15ee2a3a.29759c35@aol.com> Never again #1: I have re-installed AOL4 purely for list traffic and created a new address to handle it. So, hopefully, never again will we see all that gunk I get at the bottom of all my AOL6 messages to the list. Never again #2: Thanks to all who responded to my request for Deperdussin drawings or information. I had no idea there was so much out there. As a bonus to all the drawings and photos, Len Smith played a blinder with http://www.bobsairdoc.com/. No doubt dozens of listees knew all about this site but I had never come accross it before. Never again the plaintive cry "If only I had a drawing!" cheers Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:57:13 -0500 From: "Brian Nicklas" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: As I recall, the IPMS set was done by Fotocut, and looks pretty much the same, just the layout on the backing sheet is a little different. Fotocut is on a flexible backing sheet, not directly attached to the fret. So you don't have to file down little nips&bumps where you cut the darn tiny thing off. The Tom MW set comes with a few more bits and bobs, so you'd have more to add to the model. But what should I use in 1/35 scale to replace or improve the weapons on the Tauro A7V tank kit? Brian ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:00:48 -0600 From: mflake@tarrantcounty.com (Flake, Marc) To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Red or Yellow Message-ID: <5F4636CE02C4D511B0D600065B04EA090158FF86@ITCREX002.tarrantcounty.com> Fraser May wrote: <> (I whack my forehead) I'd heard that! I used Fuji film on my last photo-taking session. No wonder ... It's Kodak for me from now on. (But aren't Kodak films a little blue?) I guess that would also explain the brown and green SE 5, one photo was taken with Kodak, the other with Fuji. And I thought I had come upon the reason for the red shift when I realized the motto of the photo lab was *not* "Film developed lightning fast" but was "Film developed *Light speed* fast." Marc Flake (a little joke for physics aficionados) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:25:00 +0800 From: Volker Haeusler To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: Warren, beside those you already mentioned there磗 also a Eduard Spandau set (maybe now discontinued, but they should still be widely available), and both Part and Airwaves include Spandau jackets in a number of their sets. However, I share SSH磗 opinion: It磗 difficult to beat Tom磗 set on the combined judgement on accuracy and easy of assembly (and, just to disgress slightly, I found the Eduard set rather fragile - difficult to handle, if you don磘 get it right the first time. Just to add one more thing, I think Tom磗 Modelworks Lewis and Scarff Ring are one of the true highlights of OT modeling... Volker ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:09:29 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Red or Yellow Message-ID: <15b.7565ea0.2975a029@aol.com> Marc writes: << (a little joke for physics aficionados) >> an we can dig it -Shaff ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:21:54 -0600 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org, ot811 , Gaston Graf , Subject: Re: Books on flying early aircraft, construction, etc Message-ID: <3C444912.2BC3082D@x25.net> ATTENTION:: x25.net Please direct this message to Jim Folbre. I am serious about changing ISPs. Direct your attention to the initial sender of the SPAM instead of the innocent people who are using an equally innocent Domain.. Your intentions are honorable but the result is a disaster... Lee Mensinger. lemen@x25.net Shane is correct. I am very use to correctly spelling the word ORBS and I just did it. The correct name of the group is ORBZ. At the present moment they have screwed up receiving messages from at least five people that I want to get messages from. I am about to make a phone call direct to the manager of the ISP Group that I use. I can easily understand punishing the senders of the SPAM but they are harming innocent people who, themselves, have done nothing wrong. Lee M New Braunfels, Tx Shane Weier wrote: > > Lee says: > > > Probably nothing wrong... They have installed a program > > called ORBS and > > it bounce whole domains, because they do not appear to have > > satisfactory > > SPAM elimination programs.. I am thinking of changing to another > > supplier because of it. > Betcha that ORBS isn't involved (they were closed down after two companies > gained injuctions against the founder) > > OTOH there are a few successors - ORBL, ORBZ and ORDB - doing the same > thing. > > FWIW spammers frequently use the mail relay facility of ISP's other than > their own to hide their true email address. Good ISP's prevent this, many > small and some big and careless ones don't. ORB (and its successors) merely > test various ISP's servers and if they don't block illicit use of relay, > they publicise the company and *other* ISP's may elect to block all spam > from the relay station. > > Which is fine, except they don't publicise the originator address, and they > don't even publicise the addresses of spammers who spam direct, so the > spammer doesn't suffer anything but the need to move relays (takes no time > at all) > > However, the users of the small or careless ISP and anyone who wants to > email to/from them gets shafted. > > Another case of good intentions gone to hell. > > Shane > > . > > ********************************************************************** > The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is > intended only for the use of the addressee(s). > If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or > copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to > forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the > MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. > > For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 > Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au > Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 > International ++61 7 38338042 > ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:23:32 -0500 From: John_Impenna@hyperion.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spandaus, . . again! Message-ID: Hi Folks, I have tried Eduard, Tom's Modelworks, Fotocut and CSM and I'd have to give Tom's an edge over CSM as the top 2. Eduard is good and Fotocut is good also. Tom's gives you just about every piece there is on a Spandau in 1/72 scale as well as 1/48!!!! I had to assemble these using my Optivisor's Loupe!!!! I wanted to see which sets were the most flexible so I tried them all!! The CSM's are nice especially for 1/72 as the resin saves a lot of assembly time. All you really need to do is roll the jackets, add a barrel and glue to the resin stock. By the way, annealing the jackets really helps, especially if you screw up and need to flatten them again. I just wave them in a candle flame until orange and let them cool. I also use a "rolling pin" made of the correct diameter for each scale. A neat tip that was passed to me By Eric Hight of CSM is to roll the jackets by rocking them back and fort around your rolling pin on a very stiff piece of packing foam, like the kind that is used to pack PC components. This really makes getting perfectly round jackets less difficult. So, IMHO, if you want every bit of detail and don't mind spending the time and detail work go with Tom's. If you want more than acceptable detail, especially in 1/72 and you want a faster assembly time, go with CSM's. Either way, you can't lose.. Regards, John ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:28:07 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: Re: Oberusel attn: Neil E.............. Message-ID: <001301c19dd9$3c81fb20$7b3dfad1@dwfjv01> > Those pipes are air intakes and you will see them in the same area as the > Dr.I on most rotary powered A/C. > > DOH not put exhaust stains by these as I did on my first WWI build (Sopwith > Tripe). Graham, Roger that, but pray tell, what color should they be? Bronze? Copper? Warren ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4072 **********************