WWI Digest 4054 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: airbrush help by "Hans Trauner" 2) Taube in Norway - was Ludemann resins by knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) 3) Re: speaking of opening things. by LEONARDPeterL@aol.com 4) Munsell color converter by Mark Miller 5) RE: Plea for help by "Nigel Rayner" 6) RE: Airbrush help by "Nigel Rayner" 7) Re: Munsell color converter by "Hans Trauner" 8) Re: speaking of opening things. by Mark Miller 9) Re: Lozenge colors was:Munsell color converter by "Hans Trauner" 10) Re: Munsell color converter by "Mark Shannon" 11) ebay item by "ot811" 12) Lozenge question by "Magnus" 13) Re: Munsell color converter by Mark Miller 14) Re: Lozenge question by "Lance Krieg" 15) RE: Plea for help by "David Watts" 16) Re: penultimate (?) word on ebay by "ibs4421" 17) Re: My last post on eBay bidding by "ibs4421" 18) Re: penultimate (?) word on ebay by "Dave Burke" 19) Re: Munsell color converter by Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au 20) ALB.DIII Oef conversion on e-bay by "Tom Plesha" 21) Re: Lozenge question by "Michael Kendix" 22) Re: Munsell color converter by KnnthS@aol.com 23) Re: Munsell color converter by Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au 24) Re: Munsell color converter by Shane Weier 25) Re: Munsell color converter by "Tom Plesha" 26) Eduard news by Shane Weier ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 20:25:44 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: airbrush help Message-ID: <002f01c19943$71b17b80$ebab72d4@FRITZweb> I use : Tamiya or Gunze alcohol based acylics. Thinned with Tamiya thinner ( it really works better!) or Lifecolor waterbased acrylics, thinned with pure water. Both paint types are thinned to the consistency of milk. If in doubt, I choose the 'thicker' version. It's always easier to thin the paint as to 'thick' it. My standard pressure is 2,0 bar with a Badger ( can't remember the correct type) airbrush. ----- Original Message ----- From: "ibs4421" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 5:05 AM Subject: [WWI] airbrush help > Listers, > I have still not decided whether or not I will attempt to use my > airbrush or not on this Fokker F.1 . I plan on using Misterkit, amongst > other acryllic paints. In the opinion of those in the know about such > things, what air pressure would you recommend for spraying acryllics? All > of the advice I have gotten so far tells me to thin my paint (I hear > windshield washer fluid works well) to the consistency of milk. Is this not > so? > > Warren ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 20:27:09 +0100 (CET) From: knut.erik.hagen@login-3.eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Taube in Norway - was Ludemann resins Message-ID: <20020109192709.D112134307@login-3.eunet.no> Hei, >> Pictures of "Start" (Etrich Rumpler Taube 3C rebuilt as 3F) are on the >> wwi-org site if someone has a Ludemann Taube to compare with. >First, thanks for a reason to peruse the 'Norwegian Taube' page; I just have to >ask: what in the world is that doughnut shaped object attached to a tank in the >last two photos of START. Did the Norwegians invent 'blue ice falling from the >sky'? I am not 100% sure, think that the seats doubled as fuel tanks as well "Start" has been taken down from the ceiling in the NTM Science Museum and brought to the RNoAF restoration facilities. Intend to ask for permission to visit it and take some more photos after they have removed a couple of years worth of dust. Will keep the list posted. The Science Museum has a Deperdussin monoplane complete with French national markings hanging there instead. WW1 content is pretty good with Farman Longhorn, Bleriot XI-2 and Hannover ClV besides a couple of engines etc. >Luedemann makes two Rumpler Tauben that I'm aware of; the one very, very close >to the Norwegian START would be the 'Etrich-Rumpler Taube 1911'; without the >floats,of course--nice kit: very thin wings and tail, one piece fuselage and >many teensy parts obviously cast on a different day from the Nieuports. The floats were made in Norway and are pretty simple shapes so thats OK. Will definitely order the 1911 Taube from RRM, could you let me know what they call it in the online catalogue, is it the Etrich Taube A.2? --------------------------------------------- WARNING - some ot content to be found below --------------------------------------------- >What colors were the stripes on the wings? The stripes are red-white-blue-white-red (6-1-2-1-6) as in the Norwegian flag. Stripes were added to Norwegian aircraft in 1916, with the limited range, there was no need for national markings before we had the first incursions of German zeppeliners and aircraft from other nations. Since Karen has Danish ancestors I take the chance and tell the ot story of the Norwegian flag: In 1814, when we had a brief spell of independence between periods under Danish and Swedish control, it was neccessary to have a flag. Since the British/Swedish blockade had been very efficent, they had to settle for what was available, a lot of Danish flags that were no longer to be used. By superimposing a blue cross on top of the white in Danebrog, we got our own flag similar to all the other Nordic countries, but still different. The blue is a deeper blue than the one used by Sweden, and it is reversed in the Icelandic flag - SquadronSignal released a version of the Gloster Gladiator with Norwegian markings that would have been correct for Iceland - research??? Dopes and paint for early Norwegian Naval aircraft was mainly of British or domestic origin, so RFC colours can be used on models. >And what's the significance of START?Is this Norwegian for "Men"?? Start is the same in Norwegian as in English - it was the beginning of military aviation in Norway. The aircraft initially flew without markings of any kind, it was unique. Dons who flew it on the first flights never held an official pilots license, but he was a naval officer and a true gentleman. >Dame Karen (whose mother is Danish, thus qualifying her to needle other >Scandinavians) To needle a former? teacher - Scandinavia is the peninsula that makes up Norway, Sweden and parts of Finland so Danes ain`t always considered real Scandinavians, but they definitely live in one of the Nordic countries... Eders Knut Erik ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 14:34:45 EST From: LEONARDPeterL@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: speaking of opening things. Message-ID: <2b.20b9004d.296df555@aol.com> --part1_2b.20b9004d.296df555_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My thanks to all those who suggested ways of opening DXF files, and especially whoever it was that tipped Freehand 9. My memory jogged I took a look in my box of discs and found I have a copy. Now I can view the files but have not yet figured out how to reduce them to a more managable scale. As is just one on my system and things slow up dramatically. Anyone familiar with this program who can give me the Noddy guide on scaling? cheers Peter L --part1_2b.20b9004d.296df555_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My thanks to all those who suggested ways of opening DXF files, and especially whoever it was that tipped Freehand 9. My memory jogged I took a look in my box of discs and found I have a copy. Now I can view the files but have not yet figured out how to reduce them to a more managable scale. As is just one on my system  and things slow up dramatically. Anyone familiar with this program who can give me the Noddy guide on scaling?

cheers

Peter L --part1_2b.20b9004d.296df555_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: 9 Jan 2002 11:47:50 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Munsell color converter Message-ID: <20020109194750.22482.cpmta@c016.snv.cp.net> I've been doing a little research into the colors for German 5 color lozenge. I was never entirely confident that the colors I picked for my DVa were correct. I decided to search the web for info on the Munsell color system and found this converter. you plug in the Munsel # and it gives you a screen display and the equivalent RGB and CMYK values. I have just started to play with it, and I have begun to understand the meaning of these rather odd looking values - 10G/Y 4/2 ???? first number is hue then value/Chroma Value=darkness, Chroma=saturation Or, at least that's my understanding so far ;-) Here's the link: http://63.122.206.38/cmc/index.htm It downloads a self extracting executable oh yea - it's free!! Mark Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 20:08:43 -0000 From: "Nigel Rayner" To: Subject: RE: Plea for help Message-ID: <000001c19949$705eae00$983bedc1@w1o0t3> David asked: >I can offer $50 to someone to take a ride over and see what's what. He is >25 miles south of San Francisco. There are some other items he has for sale >I would like some details on as well when you are there. Dang! You're three years too late! I used to live in San Mateo which is just a few minutes drive from San Carlos. Pity, this sounds like a real interesting trip. Why didn't I know about this guy when I lived there....? Cheers, Nigel R ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 20:08:45 -0000 From: "Nigel Rayner" To: Subject: RE: Airbrush help Message-ID: <000101c19949$717c04e0$983bedc1@w1o0t3> James wrote: >I used Misterkit acrylics for the first time about a week ago, brush >painting British CDL on two DH2s over an undercoat of Humbrol matt white. >It didn't cover perfectly but a second coat will finish it (tonight). As >other Listees have noted on this topic, your undercoat needs to be >symphathetic with the Misterkit colour you are using. My brush painting of >PC10 over matt white Humbrol didn't go so well and I would use a darker >colour undercoat next time. I used a chisel-ended brush - some Listees have >found a pointed brush worked better. I am sure a good quality brush would >also be advisable. What he said. Brush quality is also very important as Ken points out. But once you get the hang of brush painting with MK they're really nice. Also don't be afraid if you can see a few brush marks as you are painting - they disappear as the paint dries. >Call me old fashioned, but I just prefer brushes to airbrushes. No sir, I call you a real man :-) Cheers, Nigel R ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 21:10:55 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Munsell color converter Message-ID: <00ca01c19949$bf4ad7a0$ebab72d4@FRITZweb> Great! Thanks! I'll download that and play around with it. I will write you some comments... when I understand Munsell coding at last. If it will work we should inform our list companions. Herzliche Gruesse, Hans ------------------------------ Date: 9 Jan 2002 12:15:04 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: speaking of opening things. Message-ID: <20020109201504.19878.cpmta@c016.snv.cp.net> On Wed, 09 January 2002, LEONARDPeterL@aol.com wrote: My thanks to all those who suggested ways of opening DXF files, and especially whoever it was that tipped Freehand 9. My memory jogged I took a look in my box of discs and found I have a copy. Now I can view the files but have not yet figured out how to reduce them to a more managable scale. As is just one on my system and things slow up dramatically. Anyone familiar with this program who can give me the Noddy guide on scaling? > > cheers > > Peter L Peter I could be speaking out of turn here. But your use of the term "scale" might be inappropriate when dealing with vector graphics. If by scale you mean size then this will probably not be what is slowing down your machine. If the .DXF file contained 10,000 elements - then whether they measure 10 inches or 10 miles makes no difference to the CPU. What you need to deal with is complexity - to actualy go in and reduce the number of elements. This can be rather time consuming. I have had trouble explaining this concept to people at work in the past. "you mean it will actualy take more time to make it simple ??" Of course - if you have converted the .DXF to a raster format than you got a whole different deal. And size does make a difference. Mark Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 21:27:01 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Cc: "ich" Subject: Re: Lozenge colors was:Munsell color converter Message-ID: <00d201c1994b$fe98aca0$ebab72d4@FRITZweb> Yeah, it works! Here are the Munsell codes for the 5-color-lozenge which was used on the restauration of the Halberstadt CL IV by the Berlin Technik Museum. The Halberstadt is still in Munich, Schleißheim branch of the Deutsches Museum (see WWI page for pics). The reprinted lozenge Tarnstoff was measured from samples of original Tarnstoff which was stored together with the Halberstadts. It was kept out of the light and never was covered with dope etc. So, here are the codes: Upper side Braun Brown 2,5Y 4/4 Blaugrün Bluegreen 5B 2/2 Grün Green 10GY 4/2 Blau Blue 5PB 3/2 Violett Violet/Purple 2,5 RP 3/2 Undersides Ocker Ochre 10YR 6/6 6/8 Grün Green 7,5 BG 5/4 Rosa Pink 2,5 PB 5/4 5/6 Blau Blue 2,5 PB 5/4 5/6 Violett Violet/Purple 5P 4/4 I do have a (large!) scan of the printing scheme to show the distribution of the colors. Contact me off-line, if you want one. Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Miller" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:50 PM Subject: [WWI] Munsell color converter > I've been doing a little research into the colors for German 5 color lozenge. I was never entirely confident that the colors I picked for my DVa were correct. > > I decided to search the web for info on the Munsell color system and found this converter. > you plug in the Munsel # and it gives you a screen display and the equivalent RGB and CMYK values. > > I have just started to play with it, and I have begun to understand the meaning of these rather odd looking values - 10G/Y 4/2 ???? > first number is hue then value/Chroma > Value=darkness, Chroma=saturation > Or, at least that's my understanding so far ;-) > > Here's the link: > http://63.122.206.38/cmc/index.htm > It downloads a self extracting executable > oh yea - it's free!! > > Mark > > > Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! > http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:25:18 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Munsell color converter Message-ID: This program is interesting, but I have found a few things about it that can really confuse. 1. You can go the other way - entering an RGB or CMYK value, but it is not as easy with the CMYK value 2. CMYK values are on the standard 0-100 range scale for each component. However, many programs use a 0-255 CMYK system, and screen colors vs. print colors are going to depend a lot on your system. 3. Many programs that let you enter CMYK values for 'color palette' will severely limit the amount of black you can enter - especially if one of the other three is high. You will find that the other component values start dropping - and not proportionately. 4. There are a number of ways to skin a cat in the CMYK system, and sometimes in the RGB. An entered color in one of the programs may suddenly change the numerical values when you call it back up. Often, entering the new values into the converter will go back to not quite the same Munsell. 5. Munsell, XYZ, L*a*b*, RGB, and CMYK systems do NOT cover the same color space. You will find there are Munsell values that cannot be converted to RGB and vice versa, because they are not defined. 6. If you try entering CMYK values to spit out RGB or Munsell, the program may give you a 'divide by zero' error - again, this is because there are many ways to skin a cat, and CMYK is the most 'unlike' the others, and so has the poorest correlation. (CMYK and RGB are not quite inverses of one another and four dimensional space into three dimension space conversion systems are not simple) 7. Your Milage WILL Vary - the colors you see on the screen for a 'standard' Munsell or RGB value will depend on your monitor and graphics card. If you have a hardcopy standard between two monitors for each range of color, you might be able to adjust your Munsell to the real Munsell. Given those considerations, it is a fun free program that can give you an idea of what you are dealing with for colors and allow you to put together color sheets/palettes that will give relative relationships. I learned a while ago, using this program, that the 'pea green' and the 'olive brown' in the 4-color uppersurface lozenge camouflage are really very similar. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:04:41 -0500 From: "ot811" To: "wwi-list" Subject: ebay item Message-ID: <015801c19951$4c89bb20$0800010a@cyberelan.com> FYI, I am bidding on Mike Franklin's Sopwith Pup on eBay. NOT calling dibs on it. regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:18:56 +0100 From: "Magnus" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Subject: Lozenge question Message-ID: <09d901c19953$3fbbeba0$648d42d5@magnus> Was thinking of building one of my Eduard Aviatik Berg kits, and the Linke-Crawford scheme is very tempting, but the lozenge decals seems quite big and troublesome. Especially the ones for the body sides. Are they usable or would it be easier to mask and paint it? Magnus ------------------------------ Date: 9 Jan 2002 13:35:00 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Munsell color converter Message-ID: <20020109213500.11.cpmta@c016.snv.cp.net> On Wed, 09 January 2002, "Mark Shannon" wrote: > This program is interesting, but I have found a few things about it that can really confuse. > 1. You can go the other way - entering an RGB or CMYK value, but it is not as easy with the CMYK value Mark You make some good points about CMYK color. Only thing I might add is that nobody should use it unless they want to print their work on a four color press. Also I have had odd experiences translating from CMYK to RGB and back with all kinds of programs. It is not an exact science. Besides CMYK takes up more space.;-) << Given those considerations, it is a fun free program that can give you an idea of what you are dealing with for colors and allow you to put together color sheets/palettes that will give relative relationships. I learned a while ago, using this program, that the 'pea green' and the 'olive brown' in the 4-color uppersurface lozenge camouflage are really very similar. > > .Mark. So you have used this program before? My main interest is to take Munsell color values and get RGB equivalents. How accurately do you think it performs this task? Mark Miller Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 16:22:21 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Lozenge question Message-ID: Magnus: You are talking about the Flashback kit? It's high on my list, too. Bucky Sheftall discusses the thrill of those hexes on his web site. Personally, I think the colors are unacceptable and would replace them with Americal decals, or use a non-hex scheme. It would be an interesting masking project to paint them! Lance ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 17:19:19 -0500 From: "David Watts" To: Subject: RE: Plea for help Message-ID: Hi Nigel and all, Bob Laskodi was kind enough to take up the task of inspecting for me, so I'm covered. He said he would take some digital photos, so these postings are applicable to the modeling page after all and not just a blatant misuse of the posting group. ;-) Thanks again, Dave W. -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Nigel Rayner Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 3:05 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] RE: Plea for help David asked: >I can offer $50 to someone to take a ride over and see what's what. He is >25 miles south of San Francisco. There are some other items he has for sale >I would like some details on as well when you are there. Dang! You're three years too late! I used to live in San Mateo which is just a few minutes drive from San Carlos. Pity, this sounds like a real interesting trip. Why didn't I know about this guy when I lived there....? Cheers, Nigel R ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:26:53 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: Re: penultimate (?) word on ebay Message-ID: <008e01c1995c$d92b0240$323dfad1@dwfjv01> > > I'll give up a few auctions in order to retain access to such help Couldn't have said it better myself. Warren (Who would like an Eduard 1/48th OOP Red Baron Alb. D.V) 8^) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:15:09 -0600 From: "ibs4421" To: Subject: Re: My last post on eBay bidding Message-ID: <004a01c1995b$1aa6d7a0$323dfad1@dwfjv01> Mike, What is your seller ID? Warren ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Franklin" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 2:34 AM Subject: [WWI] My last post on eBay bidding > Ladies and Gentlemen, > > As both a buyer and a seller on eBay, I say 'price fixing' is both wrong > as well as against the rules. > I suggest we all behave like adults, ladies, and gentlemen, and play the > game as it is > meant to be played, highest bidder gets the cookie. We all have more kits > than we can build in our lifetime. We buy more because we want them, not > because we need them. If you want it enough, you will pay the price, > whatever it costs. Always at the expense of other things you want, and > sometimes at the expense of things that you need. That is the nature of > life in our consumer society. > > $72 is not too much to pay for a kit if I think it's worth that, and if I > can afford it, and I can. It is not your place to pass judgment on what I > do with my money. If you are a "tightwad" and can't get it together to have > some money to throw around chasing after what excites you, butt out and get > a life. > > Please note that my position on this issue of 'gentleman's agreement' is as > follows. > > On items I am selling, I will refuse to complete the transaction with anyone > who calls 'dibbs' on the list and enters into an agreement with others to > stifle bidding to keep the final price artificially low. I paid good money > for these items I am selling, and I want to recover my investment. Don't > conspire on items I'm selling, and don't conspire on items I'm bidding on. > Don't do it at all. Decide on what you want, decide how much you are > willing to pay, grit your teeth and place your bid. > > I read the list messages late at night in digest form off the web page, so I > can't enter into the fray in 'real time'. So please excuse my belated > replies to the discussion. > > > > > Mike Franklin > Bellingham, WA USA > > "No man is so hated as he who will drive the speed limit" > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 17:25:32 -0600 From: "Dave Burke" To: Subject: Re: penultimate (?) word on ebay Message-ID: <004501c19964$ef6f1b60$5e131a3f@s0024008072> > Warren > (Who would like an Eduard 1/48th OOP Red Baron Alb. D.V) 8^) > > Thought that was a D.III DB ...who may have one laying about... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:20:53 +1000 From: Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Munsell color converter Message-ID: Hi Everybody; Just reading these recent posts re RGB/CMYK/Munsell colour systems with some interest as I know very little about how all this works. Can someone point me in the direction of a good basic text explaining how all these work and how they can be applied? I'd really like to know. All the Best Neil E. _________________________________________________________________________________ NOTICE: This communication is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient of this communication please delete and destroy all copies immediately. If you are the intended recipient of this communication, you should not copy, disclose or distribute this communication without the authority of the Department of Human Services. Any views expressed in this communication are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifically states them to be the views of the Department. Except as required by law, the Department does not represent, warrant and/or guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained nor that the communication is free of errors, virus, interception or interference. If you have received this email in error or have other concerns regarding this transmission, please contact the Department of Human Services System Administrator at Postmaster@dhs.vic.gov.au _________________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 20:01:17 -0500 From: "Tom Plesha" To: Subject: ALB.DIII Oef conversion on e-bay Message-ID: <000f01c19972$4f355020$2cfdfa18@mcmb1.mi.home.com> Hi All- I just thought I'd let you know a gent has an Alb.DIII resin nose-tank-engine on e-bay for the Eduard Kit. I've already bid on it, but I mailed him and he says he has more available, I'd like a couple. Its item#1686723905. If I get it, I'll post a comment on the quality, etc. Anyone else wants to bid, go-for-it, like I said, he claims to have more. NO CONNECTION WITH SELLER, JUST PASSING ON INFO! Later Tom ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 01:00:17 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Lozenge question Message-ID: >From: "Lance Krieg" >> >> >It would be an interesting masking project to paint them! Indeed but it can be done well. See Bob Wheeler's Gotha on the web site. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 21:23:11 EST From: KnnthS@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Munsell color converter Message-ID: <183.1df3d51.296e550f@aol.com> In a message dated 9/1/02 4:23:36 pm, Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au writes: << good basic text explaining how all these work and how they can be applied? >> you have to hold your mouth right. unlike me. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:01:17 +1000 From: Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Munsell color converter Message-ID: Sorry Ken, its the "Australian to English" Computranslators fault -what I really said was: "A bloody bonzer bishop's crook with the bloody gen on how these jiggers work mate?" - Sorry I'll adjust my translator in future ;- )) All the Best Neil E In a message dated 9/1/02 4:23:36 pm, Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au writes: << good basic text explaining how all these work and how they can be applied? >> you have to hold your mouth right. unlike me. _________________________________________________________________________________ NOTICE: This communication is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient of this communication please delete and destroy all copies immediately. If you are the intended recipient of this communication, you should not copy, disclose or distribute this communication without the authority of the Department of Human Services. Any views expressed in this communication are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifically states them to be the views of the Department. Except as required by law, the Department does not represent, warrant and/or guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained nor that the communication is free of errors, virus, interception or interference. If you have received this email in error or have other concerns regarding this transmission, please contact the Department of Human Services System Administrator at Postmaster@dhs.vic.gov.au _________________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:07:07 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Munsell color converter Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCD9F5@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Neil says: > "A bloody bonzer bishop's crook with the bloody gen on how > these jiggers work mate?" - LOL Now you sound like Diego..... Shane > ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:14:28 -0500 From: "Tom Plesha" To: Subject: Re: Munsell color converter Message-ID: <000501c19984$eaa502a0$2cfdfa18@mcmb1.mi.home.com> thats only because you forgot to cross the first t and dot the i, I'm sure glad you cleared it all up. No problem. Thanks Later Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 10:02 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Munsell color converter > > Sorry Ken, its the "Australian to English" Computranslators fault -what I > really said was: > > "A bloody bonzer bishop's crook with the bloody gen on how these jiggers > work mate?" - > > Sorry I'll adjust my translator in future > > ;- )) > > All the Best > > Neil E > > > > In a message dated 9/1/02 4:23:36 pm, Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au writes: > > << good basic text explaining how all these work and how they can be > applied? >> > > you have to hold your mouth right. > > unlike me. > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________ _____ > NOTICE: This communication is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient of this communication please delete and destroy all copies immediately. If you are the intended recipient of this communication, you should not copy, disclose or distribute this communication without the authority of the Department of Human Services. > > Any views expressed in this communication are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifically states them to be the views of the Department. > > Except as required by law, the Department does not represent, warrant and/or guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained nor that the communication is free of errors, virus, interception or interference. > > If you have received this email in error or have other concerns regarding this transmission, please contact the Department of Human Services System Administrator at Postmaster@dhs.vic.gov.au > ____________________________________________________________________________ _____ > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:15:27 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwim'" Subject: Eduard news Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCD9F6@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Eduard's website newsletter has been updated: http://www.eduard.cz/./newsletter/info0102.html Excerpts from their text: "...PLASTIC KITS We have small delay against the kit release schedule. At this moment, we have two kits very close to be released. (snip ot stuff) The second kit, which will be released in the first quarter, is re-designed 1/48th scale Albatros D.V. It should be simply to say, that it is a reissued old kit, but it's not true. The new Albatros is really new, with new surface, new interior, new engine, new marking options... For second quarter, we have two 1/72nd scale kit, Fokkers E.III and E.IV, and then we will release 1/144th scale Junkers Ju 52. KIT FOR JANUARY Kit for January is 1/48th scale Roland C.IIa. It is the final version of Walfish, with large rudder. And it is also the final Eduard Roland. .... ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. For general enquires: ++61 7 3833 8000 Support Centre e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au Support Centre phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 4054 **********************