WWI Digest 3869 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Hello from Artur G. by Scottfking@aol.com 2) Your Biz #4DFB by "Melvin Jimisk" 3) Albatros D.V/DVa question by "Michael Kendix" 4) Re: Schiffer Book - British Aviation Squadron Markings of WWI by Ray Boorman 5) Re: Dawn Patrol - The Movie by KarrArt@aol.com 6) Re: Photo question by KarrArt@aol.com 7) Paints? by JVT7532@aol.com 8) My Albatros (was RE: Re: Pfalz finished!) by "Marcio Antonio Campos" 9) RE: Paints? by "Diego Fernetti" 10) Re: Photo question by Nigel Cheffers-Heard 11) Re: Ausro Hungarian pilots and Albatros CI by "Hans Trauner" 12) Re: Ausro Hungarian pilots and Albatros CI by "Hans Trauner" 13) Re: Ausro Hungarian pilots and Albatros CI by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 14) Re: Vallejo Paints? by "Hans Trauner" 15) Re: Ausro Hungarian pilots and Albatros CI by "Hans Trauner" 16) MIME Test by "Ken Acosta" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 10:15:50 EST From: Scottfking@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Hello from Artur G. Message-ID: <11a.69f0b86.291958a6@aol.com> In a message dated 11/3/01 2:40:33 PM Pacific Standard Time, kaczusia@yahoo.com writes: << My particular interest is the Bolshevik War of 1920 and in particular the American Volunteers that flew with the 7th squadron in that war. >> Welcome to the list from Clarksville IN. There is a bit about the American volunteers in the Polish air force at the Wright Patterson AFB museum. Scott ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 21:57:32 -0500 From: "Melvin Jimisk" To: lines38d@ns.web.pl Subject: Your Biz #4DFB Message-ID: <200111050639.fA56dWN04337@ns.web.pl> This is a MIME Message ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0080_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0" ------=_NextPart_001_0080_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ***** This is an HTML Message ! ***** ------=_NextPart_001_0080_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable FREE Computer With Merchant Account Setup

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Click Herem ------=_NextPart_001_0080_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0-- ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01BDF6C7.FABAC1B0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 15:44:56 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Albatros D.V/DVa question Message-ID: I saw a profile on Bob's CD (sorry, I don't have it at work with me) of Abatros D.V or D.Va. It was primarily red on the fusealge and tail with a plain wood and a yellow band on the centre of the fuselage. I have some questions: 1. What type of lozenge was on the upper and lower wing surfaces (4 or 5 colour)? 2. Was the lozenge applied chordwise? Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 07:48:40 -0800 From: Ray Boorman To: Subject: Re: Schiffer Book - British Aviation Squadron Markings of WWI Message-ID: <20011106154912.DXMA22609.priv-edtnes11-hme0.telusplanet.net@ray> The Schiffer book is worth every penny and more imho if you are into PC10/PC12 it literally has small sections on every squadron. This includes pictures some written text on common features and a 50 odd page colour section done by Bob Pearson as well. This book I think in time will become a bible of RFC markings. One quibble is that the writer didn't deal with AFC units properly. But then nor do others, as in identifying them properly as AFC. Once you are done with that buy Bob's CD. Again a gem of information on all air forces. The only problem with Bob's CD is you'll want to go to a better resolution on your video card and monitor. (19 inch is about right for Bobs profiles they look beautiful at this size). One point if you do have the Schiffer book you can skip getting the Windsock Camel and SE5a Squadrons since its pretty much a subset of the book, although the book has lots more info. Of course if your obsessive like me you get all of them. (And hide the bill from SWMBO) imho the money for Bobs CD and the Schiffer book is really worth the while. Get saving for Christmas is all I can say. Ray On Tue, 6 Nov 2001 10:08:23 -0500 (EST), Lee wrote: >Probably. I am sure it has more illustrations. It is certainly >worth >the price. > >Lee M. >New Braunfels, TX > >James Fahey wrote: > >> Greetings All >> I spotted this book on the www and I am wondering - is it good >>value? It is >> certainly pricey. Am I better off buying Bob P's CD-ROM? >> Cheers >> James >> >> >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 11:14:57 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Dawn Patrol - The Movie Message-ID: <4d.13de21b8.29196681@aol.com> In a message dated 11/5/01 12:01:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, LEONARDPeterL@aol.com writes: << One of the Pfalze XII is in the Smithsonian and on their web site. Spectacular colour scheme. I had automatically asumed it would be black and white, but not so. cheers Peter L >> Maybe it really was black and white in its movie days. RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 11:14:56 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Photo question Message-ID: <7e.1d6caabb.29196680@aol.com> In a message dated 11/5/01 4:15:28 PM Pacific Standard Time, dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com writes: << Has anyone considered flash ? I've had some not bad results using off camera flash and a couple of reflectors positioned at either side of the model (Bounce the flash off one reflector and the other 'fills in' the shadows). >> Pretty much what I do with every shot. I take pics outdoors- a few cardboard reflectors, the f-stop ring slammed down to 22 (as far as mine camera will go), turn on the flash unit and start shooting. Sometimes the results are good, sometimes not. The main problems come with closeup detail stuff- it can be difficult to get a lot of light into a cockpit without overdoing it! RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:16:54 EST From: JVT7532@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Paints? Message-ID: <39.1d2eec02.29197506@aol.com> --part1_39.1d2eec02.29197506_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good afternoon everyone, I was going through some of my links today and noticed this site carries some very interesting paints, has anyone here ever used Vallejo paints? They seem to have a large selection of colors and should be of good quality as painters of figures are pretty fussy as to the materials they use. Best of all they seem to have a nice selection of colors and are available as singles or sets. Vallejo Paints and Brushes http://www.michtoy.com/MTSCnewSite/supplies_folder/vallejo_folder/vallejo.html Best regards, Jon Jon V. Theisen 7532 Lawndale Ave. Phila., PA 19111-2706 --part1_39.1d2eec02.29197506_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good afternoon everyone, I was going through some of my links today and noticed this site carries some very interesting paints, has anyone here ever used Vallejo paints? They seem to have a large selection of colors and should be of good quality as painters of figures are pretty fussy as to the materials they use. Best of all they seem to have a nice selection of colors and are available as singles or sets.

Vallejo Paints and Brushes
http://www.michtoy.com/MTSCnewSite/supplies_folder/vallejo_folder/vallejo.html
                        Best regards,
                                Jon
Jon V. Theisen
7532 Lawndale Ave.
Phila., PA 19111-2706 --part1_39.1d2eec02.29197506_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:23:54 -0300 From: "Marcio Antonio Campos" To: Subject: My Albatros (was RE: Re: Pfalz finished!) Message-ID: <002501c166f0$333351b0$5d1ba8c0@officesp.starmedia> Hello, Rick and list folks! Thanks for your comments. I really liked the Pfalz, and will build more in the future. I've already got the pictures, and I'll put them in the scanner in the end of the day, so I guess in less than 48 hours you'll see the model. Thanks for asking! The Ernst Hess's Jasta 28 Albatros D.III is going very well, let me tell you what is going on: * Upper wing is 100% ready, even with gloss varish and decals, and it looks wonderful! * I've already painted both light and dark greens in lower wing, and next weekend I'll complete the camouflage with brown, according to the information Dan-San Abbott sent me. Kudos to Tamiya masking tape! * I still must paint light grey details in the fuselage. When I finish this I'll start working in details, like the engine, and start assembling the landing gear, which seems to be easier that the Pfalz's (at least struts aren't so fragile). * This is gonna be my first time with photo-etch parts, a Spandau machine gun. I hope I can do it with minor damage :-) Steven Perry and D. sent me some valuable advices about how to face the challenge, but any help is welcome. This weekend perhaps I won't have time for modeling, I'll spend the Saturday looking for apartments to buy and on Sunday I'll be in Rio Claro model contest. Of course you'll know everything on Sunday night! All the best from Brazil Marcio Antonio Campos Redator do GuiaSP StarMedia do Brasil +55 11 30436421 marcio.campos@starmedia.net http://www.guiasp.com.br http://www.guiarj.com.br http://www.nacidade.com.br > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Rick > Milas > Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 10:54 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Pfalz finished! > > > > Hi Marcio, > Glad to hear about your completed Pfalz. It's always great to > finish a > model, and the Pfalz DIII/DIIIa is probably my favorite > aircraft. I look > forward to seeing your pictures. I believe you were also > working on an > Albatross DIII of Jasta 28. How's that one coming along? > Rick Milas > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:30:24 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Paints? Message-ID: <032101c166e8$b811baa0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Jon wrote: > Good afternoon everyone, I was going through some of my links today and > noticed this site carries some very interesting paints, has anyone here ever > used Vallejo paints? They seem to have a large selection of colors and should > be of good quality as painters of figures are pretty fussy as to the > materials they use. Best of all they seem to have a nice selection of colors > and are available as singles or sets. Hi! Yes, they're great. I have a selection of wood and CDL hues and they are great and can be thinned with distilled water or future. They brush OK too. Here they are somehow expensive, but they're worth the price. Also, they come in soft plastic bottles with a pippette" so they're very practical and I use some old Vallejo bottles for mixing other paints. BTW, take care of that HTML setting Jon! Regards D. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:27:00 +0000 From: Nigel Cheffers-Heard To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Photo question Message-ID: Hope this isn't getting too waffly for anyone. Flash is the ultimate means of exposing, since it has constant colour temperature and a continuous spectrum which colour film requires. Studio flash is great, as it has lots of power (switchable) and modelling lights so you can see what you are doing. I habitually work on location with 2000 Joules of flash, great, but heavy and expensive. Makes an impressive POP when it goes off!!! Using portable flash will give amazing results as long as you are a pretty competent photographer. This is really the crux here, and if you are not, I recommend you ask someone who is to help you. If you bounce the flash it will give a great quality of light, and using a bounce card close in opposite the main card will fill the shadows with light and give them unbelievable luminance. Reflectors made out of the dull side of aluminium kitchen foil give a good compromise between reflecting efficiency and "soft" light. It is beneficial to use a 35mm SLR with a longer than normal focal length lens for this type of photography, and a 90mm Macro on 35mm is ideal. This has three advantages: the first is that you work from further away from the subject and the perspective is more acceptable (sorry, subjective judgement). Secondly a Macro lens will (usually) focus down to half lifesize in the mount, and you can therefore fill the frame with a 72mm wide subject without additional accessories. Last benefit is that as you are working at a greater distance you therefore have greater flexibility in setting up the lights without the camera getting in the way or casting a shadow. (I use a Tamron SP 90mm, they are currently available pretty cheap secondhand in a variety of mounts and are as sharp as we will ever need.) Remember that flash exposure is governed by aperture ONLY, shutter speed is irrelevant. Generally ambient light doesn't matter in these circumstances, and calculating mixed light is beyond this discussion. Downside of this technique is that you need a flash meter to calculate the exposure, and a pretty gutsy flashgun to supply the power. To record our models in all their glory needs small apertures, typically f16 - f22, and bouncing the light will lose a lot of power. If you are working in near-darkness, you can use multiple flash to increase the exposure, and get a smaller aperture. If one flash gives you f8, then 2 flashes allow you to use f16 and 4 flashes give you f22. It really works if you are patient and methodical. You CAN use trial and error to calculate the exposure, but it can be time consuming and expensive. Of course, you can produce a setup where you only ever do this once, then record the distances and settings, and set it up the same next time. I have one job which is habitually set up this way, the flashmeter is only used at the end of setting up for confirmation. I think you should always aim to expose the film correctly. This will give the best results, and you have the best chance of the colour gamut being recorded as well as possible. 400 ISO film is pretty grainy, and does not give really acceptable results. 200 ISO is a good compromise, and gives good results and high definition. Really shows up those mistakes! There is not really anything to be gained from using 100 ISO film, as in general it is 200 ISO film with a neutral density filter built in. Long story..... Incidentally, if you have access to a 500W tungsten halogen lamp in an external luminaire, they can be bought pretty cheaply in the right places. One of those diffused through tracing paper, a fill reflector, and a blue Colour Conversion filter over the camera lens will give good results pretty cheaply. Cokin make good polycarbonate filters at reasonable prices. Then you can use your camera's internal meter, and actually see what you are doing. You will need a decent tripod, but cheap ones can be improved immeasurably by hanging weights from the centre column to increase the overall mass. Biggest problem with a tripod is the vibration caused by the mirror of your SLR flying up into the pentaprism. (You get my drift). Hence it is really easy to get camera shake around a thirtieth or a fifteenth of a second, but once the camera has settled down, if you are using a cable release you should have few problems. Hence this strange state of affairs where it is easier to get your pictures sharp at one second or thirty seconds than it is at a fifteenth. Strange. Full spectrum fluorescents can give excellent subjective results, and if you have a digital camera, which has a huge amount of software interpretation at the taking stage, will almost certainly give good results. As to how they work on film, it remains for some bold soul to test them. And then there is long lighting and short lighting and the Inverse Square Law, but I think we'll keep that for another day... Hope this helps someone! N >Has anyone considered flash ? I've had some not bad results using off camera >flash and a couple of reflectors positioned at either side of the model >(Bounce the flash off one reflector and the other 'fills in' the shadows). If >you have two flash guns, or an on camera flash, you can play about a bit more. > >Not as good as studio flash (No modelling lights for one), but you can get >reasonable results. > >The exposure latitude of colour print film means you can afford a reasonable >depth of field. > >Nigel, any comments ? > >Dave -- Nigel Cheffers-Heard photography + design tel: +44 (0)1392 87 58 57 fax: +44 (0)1392 87 74 97 mobile: 0771 261 4514 nigelch@cheffers.co.uk www.cheffers.co.uk Laburnums, Bridge Hill Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ, UK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 18:49:01 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Ausro Hungarian pilots and Albatros CI Message-ID: <003b01c166eb$51b8d560$e3a172d4@FRITZweb> Ladies and Genlemen, Hecker & Goros does have a AH pilot plus mechanic / batman in 1/48. Regrettably their homepage does not include their pilot's series... and I cannot find my samples...Sweet Hot Indian Tea! I'll do further research and inform you! Hans ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:10:18 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Ausro Hungarian pilots and Albatros CI Message-ID: <00ff01c166ee$4b5fbe60$e3a172d4@FRITZweb> CI > Arco Army uniforms of WWI shows a color plate of Brumowski in 'pike grey' > (Hechtgrau) uniform & putees (kepi not shown but also same color), ...... I do have a jpg showing a AH pilot in service dress , no flying gear! Pic was taken in Berlin, Luftwaffenmuseum, WWI departement. Contact me offline and I'll mail it. Hans ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:18:28 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Ausro Hungarian pilots and Albatros CI Message-ID: <001701c166ef$6fa84480$0200a8c0@x.pl> Hans wrote: > Hecker & Goros does have a AH pilot plus mechanic / batman in 1/48. So it is really true, that KuK Luftfahrtruppen enlisted batman as mechanic? In wich Flik? G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:29:57 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Vallejo Paints? Message-ID: <013101c166f1$0971f7e0$e3a172d4@FRITZweb> Jon, I am using Vallejo regularly on my figures in 1/72, 1/48 and 1/32 (54mm) scale. I'll never use them on any larger scale. On 120mm I still prefer oils. Vallejo are pure water based acrylics, never use any alcohols to thin them. Some dish washing liquid in the thinning water helps, but the danger of enclosed air bubbles in the tried paint is rising with it. Covering power is extremely good. They dry matt, but not dead matt. If painted in sevaral layers they dry in some sort of egg shell finish. I use a sprayed priming courtesy of Citadel Skull White, but I have heard of painters who uses them directly on resin, f.e. Normally I paint the 'medium' colour as the second base, then adds shadows and lights by 'glazings' of thinned paint. No chance to use them wet in wet like oils. Blending is a step by step painting by 'feathering' out the paint while thinning it. 'Glazings' are easy made by simple thinning. The large sortiment of different shades is confusing. They have simply too much . But on the other hand it's sometimes easier to take a ready made shade/hue of a colour as constantly re-mixing it. Mixing is hard, as if you don't store the receipt you don't achieve the exact hue again. Mix a large amount and store it in a film can. The paint does not have the depth of oils - it's grayer, hazier, more matt. Very good for small scales, because if you look at person from the right distance so that it appear in 1/48 scale, no deep colours are required. The standard colours can not be used on plastic without priming. But they are great for detail work, washings etc. There is an additional series, already mixed for the airbrush, but I don't have any experience with that. Hans ( Sorry for the lenght. But I am a figure painter and paint questions are vital and essential......) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:35:31 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Ausro Hungarian pilots and Albatros CI Message-ID: <014101c166f1$d0c04ea0$e3a172d4@FRITZweb> Flik 49 had a black bat on yellow circle as a unit emblem. The Flik's last leader ( who prefered all-black clothing) is said to immigrate to the US after the war. His last known adress was in a city called... Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 7:15 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: Ausro Hungarian pilots and Albatros CI > Hans wrote: > > Hecker & Goros does have a AH pilot plus mechanic / batman in 1/48. > > So it is really true, that KuK Luftfahrtruppen enlisted batman as > mechanic? In wich Flik? > G. > > > > _________________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 13:21:54 -0600 From: "Ken Acosta" To: Subject: MIME Test Message-ID: This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_E4BE3A67.234202A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline Sorry to waste bandwidth, but like John, I'm also needing to see if I got = my MIME settings to cooperate. KA --=_E4BE3A67.234202A0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="TEXT.htm"

Sorry to waste bandwidth, but like John, I'm also needing to see if I got my MIME settings to cooperate.
KA
--=_E4BE3A67.234202A0-- ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3869 **********************