WWI Digest 3866 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Help needed by "David R. Crowell" 2) Re: Help needed by Lubos.Vinar@deltax.cz 3) RE: New update by "Diego Fernetti" 4) italian uniforms by "Diego Fernetti" 5) RE: Pfalz finished! by "Diego Fernetti" 6) RE: Hello from Artur G. by "Diego Fernetti" 7) RE: Back from the ashes by "Tomasz Gronczewski" 8) Re: Photo question by Nigel Cheffers-Heard 9) Re: World Series by Allan Wright 10) Re: Photo question by Crawford Neil 11) Re: The Cantilever demo'd by Allan Wright 12) ÕÒÃÎÖÐÇéÈË µ½³Ïͬ½»ÓÑ by miya6473_cn@sina.com 13) Re: One more for the List Chemist please.... by "Mark Shannon" 14) Re: One more for the list chemist please ....... by "Lee M." 15) Re: Photo question by Jan Vihonen 16) Re: One more for the List Chemist please.... by "Michael Kendix" 17) Re: Photo question by Crawford Neil 18) Re: One more for the List Chemist please.... by "Diego Fernetti" 19) Re: Help needed by VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com 20) Re: Help needed by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 21) Re: Photo question by Jan Vihonen 22) Re: Help needed by Crawford Neil 23) Re: Help needed by VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com 24) Re: Help needed by Jan Vihonen 25) Re: Photo question by Crawford Neil 26) Re: Help needed by VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com 27) RE: Photo question by "Gaston Graf" 28) Re: Photo question by "Gaston Graf" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 07:51:04 -0500 From: "David R. Crowell" To: Subject: Re: Help needed Message-ID: <003001c165f8$8827f7a0$81367fcf@e5gr6> ----- Original Message ----- From: Matt Bittner > > Maybe I should just try to cut some masks and spray. Now how can I cut > perfect circles for the masks? > I believe that cutting blades are available for at least some makes of draftsman's compasses. This would allow you to set for the desired radius and slice out perfectly circular masks in any size you wished. I am not sure of the cost or availability, I would suggest trying an art supply store to see if the can help. --dave ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:04:33 +0100 From: Lubos.Vinar@deltax.cz To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Help needed Message-ID: Hi Matt I print vektors on ALPS without problems. In fact, I never print bitmaps. I prepare graphic in Corel Draw. If you can use masks, you can use Eduard Express mask. They do Circles in various sizes. LVi >> Odpovìzte prosím - wwi@wwi-models.org Odesláno kým: wwi@wwi-models.org Od: "Matt Bittner" @wwi-models.org 05.11.2001 13:46:13 Komu: Multiple recipients of list Kopie: Pøedmìt: [WWI] Help needed I need to replace the roundels on my Hanriot HD.3. I tried to "correct" the Americal/Gryphon roundels I added, but they came out horribly (a reason why, FWIW, I think I didn't place at the Nats this year). I need some replacement French roundel decals to put over these A/G decals to bring the model "back up to standards". Can anyone help? Has anyone printed French roundels on an ALPS using the vector option? I would like these roundels without any "pixelization" you get when you run "bitmap-oriented" graphics through the ALPS. Help! Maybe I should just try to cut some masks and spray. Now how can I cut perfect circles for the masks? Gads...if only A/G printed up their roundels in a better fashion... Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:07:25 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: New update Message-ID: <02df01c165ea$0cee9700$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> This Muth guy is making great models as fast as Dennis! Well done, Mike! D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Matt Bittner To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 7:00 AM Subject: [WWI] New update > Just added two models to Mike Muth's page. Excellent job on both, > Mike!! > > > Matt Bittner > WW1 Site Assistant Editor > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:14:40 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: italian uniforms Message-ID: <02f301c165eb$102eb160$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Fraser wrote: > I still need to find some Italian > uniform refs, though as I'm trying to convert the smiling French chap who > came with the kit into a smiling Italian chap...help?? I suggest that you get the latest Windsock Magazine issues, the articles by our list mate Alberto Casirati always bring very interesting pictures where pilots anf crew members can be seen at advantage. Seems like the Italian pilots had some kind of "official issue" jackets in black leather and lined with some withish fleece. The uniforms were medium green in colour. HTH D. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:15:37 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Pfalz finished! Message-ID: <02f901c165eb$32a86060$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Congratulations for the achievement, Marcio, I'm lloking forward to see your pictures online Best regards D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Marcio Antonio Campos To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 10:54 PM Subject: [WWI] Pfalz finished! > Hello, folks! > > Returning from a longer weekend (Friday was holiday here), I have the joy of > telling you that my Roden Pfalz D.IIIa is finished, and this is by far the > best model I've ever built! Let me share with you a bit about my experience: > > Steps ahead: > 1 - for the first time I used gloss varnish in the model. The overall look > is much better than my previous kits, and decal silvering was reduced, > although not completely eliminated. > 2 - although the landing gear was a difficult thing to build, I think I did > pretty well, even if it's not 100% perfect. > 3 - I liked working in the interior details provided by the kit. Of course > it's not so much detail, but enough to please someone like me. > > Steps back: > 1 - I had problems with cabane struts, since I didn't use my manual drill to > make a bigger hole in the fuselage (after two coats of paint and one of > varnish, the holes were not so evident). I'll pay more attention next time. > Completing Diego's theological theories he posted some weeks ago, I must say > that I consider cabane struts as the purgatory of WWI plastic modeling. > 2 - I failed to hide the line between fuselage and the cowling piece, but > here I can share the guilt with Roden, since this problem was noted by some > other list folks when the kit was released, as far as I remember. > > Anyway, a nice kit and I liked to build it. I've already bought another one, > and also a Pfalz D.III, as I said some weeks ago. > > I can hear the choir: "Pictures! Pictures!" I've already taken pictures and > they will go to photo lab tomorrow in the morning. So on Wednesday I hope to > send some shots to Allan and also upload some in my web site. > > Next week I'll go to Rio Claro modeling contest (Adriano, you're going there > too, aren't you?) and I'll take both my Fokker D.VII and the Pfalz. If we > have 4 more WWI models, perhaps they can open a split category, since I'll > have to enter my kits in the "1/72 - beginner - propeller" category. > > ---- > > I'm reading Osprey "German and Austrian Aircraft of World War One" and > remembering the days when I thought that all WWI aircraft were the ones I > saw in Red Baron II... how far I was from the truth! > > Well, folks, that's it! Have a nice week, you all! > > All the best from Brazil > > Marcio (from home) > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 07:55:45 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Hello from Artur G. Message-ID: <025501c165e8$6ba6dc00$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Welcome to the list, Artur, I'm sure you'll enjoy the ride! Regards from the southern pampas Diego (with an "h" in there) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:41:28 +0100 From: "Tomasz Gronczewski" To: Subject: RE: Back from the ashes Message-ID: Hello Michal, welcome again! Tomasz Gronczewski Poland ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:50:05 +0000 From: Nigel Cheffers-Heard To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Photo question Message-ID: .... will >that be enough? Or should I wait for the weekend? >Indoors means that I can do a slow exposure. >/Neil C. Are we talking film or digital? N -- Nigel Cheffers-Heard photography + design tel: +44 (0)1392 87 58 57 fax: +44 (0)1392 87 74 97 mobile: 0771 261 4514 nigelch@cheffers.co.uk www.cheffers.co.uk Laburnums, Bridge Hill Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ, UK ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:53:44 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: World Series Message-ID: <200111051353.IAA25967@mustang.sr.unh.edu> People, the world series, or ANY other current event news type item are NOT WELCOME HERE. STOP STOP STOP =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:54:36 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Photo question Message-ID: Paper film 200ASA, and a Canon-EOS50, with a 100mm Macro. /Neil C. > -----Original Message----- > From: Nigel Cheffers-Heard [mailto:su3264@eclipse.co.uk] > Sent: den 5 november 2001 14:52 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Photo question > > > ... will > >that be enough? Or should I wait for the weekend? > >Indoors means that I can do a slow exposure. > >/Neil C. > Are we talking film or digital? > N > -- > Nigel Cheffers-Heard > photography + design > > tel: +44 (0)1392 87 58 57 > fax: +44 (0)1392 87 74 97 > mobile: 0771 261 4514 > nigelch@cheffers.co.uk > www.cheffers.co.uk > > Laburnums, Bridge Hill > Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ, UK > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:56:07 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: The Cantilever demo'd Message-ID: <200111051356.IAA25981@mustang.sr.unh.edu> Truely outstanding - well said. Great model Shane! Clever subject matter too! > OUTSTANDING!!!!!!!! > Later > Tom > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Shane Weier" > To: "Multiple recipients of list" > Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 9:39 PM > Subject: [WWI] The Cantilever demo'd > > > Hi all > > > > Have a look at > > http://www.skywriters.net/images/Picture_0204.jpg > > http://www.skywriters.net/images/Picture_0205.jpg > > (in both cases there's an underscore "_" between "Picture" and the > number!) > > > > Shane =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 18:11:59 From: miya6473_cn@sina.com To: wwid@pop.mail.rcn.net Subject: ÕÒÃÎÖÐÇéÈË µ½³Ïͬ½»ÓÑ Message-ID: <200111051505.KAA23421@mustang.sr.unh.edu> ³Ïͬ½»ÓÑ

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------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 09:05:39 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: One more for the List Chemist please.... Message-ID: This is always a difficult question to answer. The short answer is, yes, there is a possibility that you are reacting to the MEK in getting the sore throat, as this is one possible symptom. The more common symptoms, though, are dizziness, lightheadedness, temporary numbness in the extremities, and confusion, followed by headaches - the last may occur as the MEK works out of the system, i.e., in fresh air. Long term, MEK can cause liver damage and stomach or intestinal ulcers, but this is associated with chronic high exposures, such as working in a poorly ventilated print shop or home paint shop, or a major exposure such as a spillage on a large percentage of the body. The hazards of MEK are considered lower than for hydrocarbon solvents like octanes and toluene. That said, a severe sore throat in the absence of other symptoms is possible but atypical. Other factors could be playing a role, including a normal psychosomatic reaction. MEK can act as a simple surface irritant - perfumes can as well - that makes the mucus membranes of the nose and throat more sensitive to other allergens and irritants. The fact that you describe higher humidity may indicate a allergy to mold spore, for example. Add to that that the human mind is such a mix of advanced reasoning and primitive instinct portions, and there is another confounding factor. MEK has a distinctive smell. If you smelled MEK from the spill, where it was going to be very pervasive, and it irritated your throat so that an allergic reaction could happen, the primitive survival part of your brain will associate MEK with throat irritation. After that, any contact with that odor can cause a basic response. Smell is the most primitive stimulus, since the receptors are right on the brain itself, which is why certain smells trigger nostalgia or fear all through your life. This is what makes it hard to refute or prove those cases of 'multiple chemical sensitivity' that we read about - those people who cannot touch a newspaper unless it has been baked in the oven to remove all traces of the ink solvents, for example. Most of the chemicals they react to have distinctive smells, and the body can actually react with asthma, hives, and rashes to psychosomatic stimuli from the brain, so are they allergic or are they uncontrollably making themselves sick because they smell something? It isn't a neurosis or psychosis, just a holdover from a very conservative survival instinct turned in on itself. We do weird things, we humans - most animals run from the smell of smoke as an instinct, we barbeque ribs. My cats leave the room when my wife reaches for her perfume atomizer, they know that stinky stuff is really nasty, at first. So, yes, the MEK could be irritating your throat, Bob. Try making sure that you only use it with adequate ventilation, such as a paint spray booth with active ventilation, and see if you have further problems or if they are getting worse. .Mark. PS - Is it me, or am I getting too verbose and pompous in these messages? Bob Pearson wrote: >Awhile back someone posted about the hazards of using MEK, could they >please repost the particulars ... I had a jar of it spill and for the past couple >of weeks have had a very sore throat. I stopped using it and the throat >cleared up. .. I used it again tonight and once again I have a sore throat. >at the same time we have had non-stop rain for the last 1 1/2 months. . >so I am curious as to whether it is the MEK or the season. > >Bob ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 08:59:25 -0600 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: One more for the list chemist please ....... Message-ID: <3BE6A94D.D903BA7F@x25.net> I do not know if MEK causes sore throats but it is among the more dangerous chemicals we mortal modelmakers can come in contact with. Nasty stuff at best. A window fan is a useful accessory. Anything that will pull the fumes away from your head. (Read: Eyes, Nose and Mouth.) Up in your area the chill of winter may prevent full use of such things. Down here the "Feds" put a lot of pressure on Floquil a number of years ago. They used a substance, like MEK, known as Dio-Sol thinner for their paints and it upset the Government. It was around for years and worked so they banned it for the most part. I went to a pro and he said it was MEK but I had too take his word for it. I used it with an Airbrush and a power vent system so I was never bothered much. But it can sure "stink up" a room any other way you use it. I discovered, early in life, that "old Floquil" was a really neat glue if you tried to paint plastic using a brush. It had to be sprayed to do it right. Shortly after that I quit buying pricey Dio-Sol and went to MEK as the thinner. A gallon was pretty cheap in comparison. I still have some of the "old" paint that is still usable and I got it in the late 60's. Properly stored it lasts forever and I have custom (home) made colors that are old Floquil and still usable aided, and, abetted by my remaining half gallon of MEK which is slowly going away as I use it. Do not know if I can buy anymore around here. I can only recommend extreme care and lots of fresh air at all times. Take great care. Need to have you around a lot longer. Lee M. New Braunfels, TX Bob Pearson wrote: > Awhile back someone posted about the hazards of using MEK, could they please > repost the particulars ... I had a jar of it spill and for the past couple > of weeks have had a very sore throat. I stopped using it and the throat > cleared up. .. I used it again tonight and once again I have a sore throat. > . at the same time we have had non-stop rain for the last 1 1/2 months. . > so I am curious as to whether it is the MEK or the season. > > Bob ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 17:06:14 +0200 From: Jan Vihonen To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Photo question Message-ID: <3BE6AAE6.36CCF357@helsinki.fi> Neil, If you have a tripod and don't mind having the prints/slides go a little yellowish/reddish (can be corrected with computer after being scanned, I think) then go for it. Don't wait! Jan > Paper film 200ASA, and a Canon-EOS50, with a 100mm Macro. > /Neil C. > > > > ... will > > >that be enough? Or should I wait for the weekend? > > >Indoors means that I can do a slow exposure. > > >/Neil C. > > Are we talking film or digital? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 15:25:26 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: One more for the List Chemist please.... Message-ID: >From: "Mark Shannon" >PS - Is it me, or am I getting too verbose and pompous in these >messages? You must be joking! These are the most important posts on this list: highly relevant and should be required reading for anyone who makes models. Look, what do you think is more important or interesting: the molding flaw on the latest Roden Fokker D.VII's radiator or explaining how you can kill yourself if you misues some of these highly toxic products such as MEK, lacquer, perfume etc? Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:16:47 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Photo question Message-ID: Yes, I noticed that, the last time I tried. Should I put a white screen behind? Any other tips about arranging the lights I have? /Neil C. > -----Original Message----- > From: Jan Vihonen [mailto:jan.vihonen@helsinki.fi] > Sent: den 5 november 2001 16:14 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Photo question > > > Neil, > > If you have a tripod and don't mind having the prints/slides > go a little > yellowish/reddish (can be corrected with computer after being > scanned, I > think) then go for it. Don't wait! > > Jan > > > Paper film 200ASA, and a Canon-EOS50, with a 100mm Macro. > > /Neil C. > > > > > > > ... will > > > >that be enough? Or should I wait for the weekend? > > > >Indoors means that I can do a slow exposure. > > > >/Neil C. > > > Are we talking film or digital? > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 12:36:32 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: One more for the List Chemist please.... Message-ID: <013701c1660f$a56b4da0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> The molding flaw, bien sûr, if explained with verbosity and pompously! D. Michael asked: > Look, > what do you think is more important or interesting: the molding flaw on the > latest Roden Fokker D.VII's radiator or explaining how you can kill yourself > if you misues some of these highly toxic products such as MEK, lacquer, > perfume etc? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:42:33 EST From: VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Help needed Message-ID: <63.12d41f6.29180d69@aol.com> --part1_63.12d41f6.29180d69_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/5/2001 7:46:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, tbittners@sprintmail.com writes: > Gads...if only A/G printed up their roundels in a better fashion... Hi Matt, just what seems to be the problem with AG roundels? As for cutting masks, I have found the easiest way is to draw the circle with a compass and use a Olfa cutter to cut the mask, a small piece of tape fills the center hole you make with the compass. One other method I have used that works pretty well for me was to draw the circle with a compass then draw centering lines in the circle, then I fold the mask material in half and then again in quarters, once this is done I use very sharp scissors to make a quarter circle cut and I get some very good circles this way. I use parafilm, tinfoil, waxpaper, writing paper, computer paper, etc., and have fair to good results with these materials. With tinfoil I spray a bit (dusting) of 3M spray adhesive on the back after its cut and it works well for me. Best regards, Jon --part1_63.12d41f6.29180d69_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/5/2001 7:46:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, tbittners@sprintmail.com writes:


Gads...if only A/G printed up their roundels in a better fashion...


Hi Matt, just what seems to be the problem with AG roundels? As for cutting masks, I have found the easiest way is to draw the circle with a compass and use a Olfa cutter to cut the mask, a small piece of tape fills the center hole you make with the compass. One other method I have used that works pretty well for me was to draw the circle with a compass then draw centering lines in the circle, then I fold the mask material in half and then again in quarters, once this is done I use very sharp scissors to make a quarter circle cut and I get some very good circles this way. I use parafilm, tinfoil, waxpaper,  writing paper, computer paper, etc., and have fair to good results with these materials. With tinfoil I spray a bit (dusting) of 3M spray adhesive on the back after its cut and it works well for me.
 Best regards,
Jon --part1_63.12d41f6.29180d69_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:50:40 +0100 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Help needed Message-ID: <021501c16611$9f82a120$0200a8c0@x.pl> Matt! I'm using simple tool used to draw circles in pre-CAD period (I don't know the English name). You can attach blade instead of graphite, or get that tool in ink-drawing version, and put blade inside of ink-drawing device, which looks like long bird's bill (I'm using this version). Cuts very well (I'm using it to make Franco's black insignias in SCW and to make lozenge wheel-hubs in OT) BTW, writing 'early I-16 cowling' I meant prop boss of course! And your earlier problems with finding it. Now mentioning of Yak sounds less idiotic :-) Cheers! Grzegorz _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 17:44:41 +0200 From: Jan Vihonen To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Photo question Message-ID: <3BE6B3E9.FBDE322F@helsinki.fi> No, I don't think white screen would work. It may even make the colour distortion more visible. It's the question of light temperature (measured in Kelvins). Kodak Wratten 80A or 80B filters are used to correct effects of electric light on day light films, IIRC. I'm afraid I deleted already your previous message where you described your lighting arrangements. On thing, dont use (hell, what's it in English?) lysrör, på svenska. They don't give even lighting, but rather pulsating. Your eye doesn't notice it but the light meter of your camera may. Jan > Yes, I noticed that, the last time I tried. Should I > put a white screen behind? Any other tips about arranging > the lights I have? > /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:52:31 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Help needed Message-ID: . With tinfoil I spray a bit > (dusting) of 3M > spray adhesive on the back after its cut and it works well for me. > Best regards, > Jon Jon, I use tinfoil sometimes, but I use soapy water as adhesive, does 3M work better? How do you get it off? Also, could you use 3M spray adhesive for glue on kitchen foil? I use Microscale metal foil adhesive, and always find it difficult to get it on without brush streaks, I've airbrushed it on with some success, but this 3M stuff sounds like a better idea? /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:54:08 EST From: VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Help needed Message-ID: --part1_ac.1d4ccef9.29181020_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/5/2001 8:00:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, gpfarm-dave@northnet.org writes: > I believe that cutting blades are available for at least some makes of > draftsman's compasses. This would allow you to set for the desired radius > and slice out perfectly circular masks in any size you wished. I am not > sure > of the cost or availability, I would suggest trying an art supply store to > see if the can help. > Hi Dave, Olfa makes a great circle cutter, I have the CMP-1 and it works very well for me, Cheap to and available at most good craft or sewing stores. Here's their site to see the cutters. OLFA - Products http://www.olfa.com/products.asp?C=4 Best regards, Jon --part1_ac.1d4ccef9.29181020_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/5/2001 8:00:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, gpfarm-dave@northnet.org writes:


I believe that cutting blades are available for at least some makes of
draftsman's compasses. This would allow you to set for the desired radius
and slice out perfectly circular masks in any size you wished. I am not sure
of the cost or availability, I would suggest trying an art supply store to
see if the can help.

Hi Dave,
Olfa makes a great circle cutter, I have the CMP-1 and it works very well for me, Cheap to and available at most good craft or sewing stores. Here's their site to see the cutters. OLFA - Products
http://www.olfa.com/products.asp?C=4
Best regards,
Jon --part1_ac.1d4ccef9.29181020_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 17:50:29 +0200 From: Jan Vihonen To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Help needed Message-ID: <3BE6B545.7FDF2B07@helsinki.fi> Grzes, That'll be a compass. Jan > I'm using simple tool used to draw circles in pre-CAD period (I don't > know the English name). ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 17:00:02 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Photo question Message-ID: ents. > > On thing, dont use (hell, what's it in English?) lysrör, på svenska. > They don't give even lighting, but rather pulsating. Your eye doesn't > notice it but the light meter of your camera may. > > Jan Fluorescent tubes, I have to admit that I looked it up in a dictionary, my english isn't what it never has been! Well done, knowing it in Swedish! /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 11:06:58 EST From: VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Help needed Message-ID: <6e.12872502.29181322@aol.com> --part1_6e.12872502.29181322_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/5/2001 10:55:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, Neil.Crawford@volvo.com writes: > Jon, I use tinfoil sometimes, but I use soapy water as adhesive, > does 3M work better? How do you get it off? > > Also, could you use 3M spray adhesive for glue on kitchen foil? > I use Microscale metal foil adhesive, and always find it difficult > to get it on without brush streaks, I've airbrushed it on with > some success, but this 3M stuff sounds like a better idea? > /Neil C. > Hi Neil, my method is to dust it on, then to remove some of the tack after it's dry using a lint free piece of old T-shirt, I always cut a few in case I screw one or two up in the process of cutting, DE-tacking, etc. I have used water to and it works but I think the 3M spray does a better job if you get the tackiness just right. I see now that they are selling smaller cans of this spray as the big cans are prone to drying up in the feed tube over time. Best regards, Jon --part1_6e.12872502.29181322_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 11/5/2001 10:55:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, Neil.Crawford@volvo.com writes:


Jon, I use tinfoil sometimes, but I use soapy water as adhesive,
does 3M work better? How do you get it off?

Also, could you use 3M spray adhesive for glue on kitchen foil?
I use Microscale metal foil adhesive, and always find it difficult
to get it on without brush streaks, I've airbrushed it on with
some success, but this 3M stuff sounds like a better idea?
/Neil C.


Hi Neil, my method is to dust it on, then to remove some of the tack after it's dry using a lint free piece of old T-shirt, I always cut a few in case I screw one or two up in the process of cutting, DE-tacking, etc. I have used water to and it works but I think the 3M spray does a better job if you get the tackiness just right. I see now that they are selling smaller cans of this spray as the big cans are prone to drying up in the feed tube over time.
 Best regards,
Jon --part1_6e.12872502.29181322_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 17:13:42 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: Photo question Message-ID: You'll need an artificial light filter mate, or your photos may turn out greenish in case of fluorescent light and brownish in case of ordinary light bulbs. I'll send you a scan of a photo that I made without filter. A single 60W bulb gave it a nice sunset effect. Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > > > I want to take a pic of the Schneider nose before > I redo it. This time of the year, it's dark when I > go to work, and when I get home, so it will have > to be indoor. If I put on all the lights I have > available on my hobby table (3x 60watt table lamps), > pointed on the model from about 30cm (1 foot) will > that be enough? Or should I wait for the weekend? > Indoors means that I can do a slow exposure. > /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 17:19:42 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: Re: Photo question Message-ID: I mostly use 400ASA indoors with my EOS100 and a 35-135USM + closeup lens for models. The lens is fine for figs but not for ac and armor cause its lacking depth in sharpness. But the pics of my 120mm WWII British Paratrooper was all made with the lens. If you wanna see them check out the "webmaster" button at Jasta Boelcke ;o). Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > > > Paper film 200ASA, and a Canon-EOS50, with a 100mm Macro. > /Neil C. > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3866 **********************