WWI Digest 3833 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: MICRO SOL & SET by Crawford Neil 2) Re: Model Photos for Gallery by "Muth and Zulick" 3) RE: MICRO SOL & SET by "Muth and Zulick" 4) Re: german rib tapes by "Muth and Zulick" 5) RE: MICRO SOL & SET by Crawford Neil 6) Eagle Strike lozenge decals by Sanjeev Hirve 7) Re: Spelling error. by Crawford Neil 8) Re: Good news - mixed with "egads" by "Muth and Zulick" 9) Re: Eduard 1/48 Nieuport 11 by "Muth and Zulick" 10) Re: Nieuport 11's and 17's - instrument panels by "Mark Shannon" 11) Re: Star of David Albatros by Sanjeev Hirve 12) Re: german rib tapes by "Hans Trauner" 13) Re: Formaplane by "Hans Trauner" 14) Re: The kit Voisin LAS by "Hans Trauner" 15) RE: MICRO SOL & SET by "Michael Kendix" 16) Re: german rib tapes by "Michael Kendix" 17) Re: german rib tapes by "Hans Trauner" 18) RE: show report by Crawford Neil 19) Re: german rib tapes by "Hans Trauner" 20) RE: MICRO SOL & SET by "Graham Hunter" 21) Biggles by Crawford Neil 22) RE: scanners was Re: Cookups by Crawford Neil 23) RE: MICRO SOL & SET by john@huggins-leahey.com (John Huggins) 24) RE: Biggles by "Diego Fernetti" 25) Re: german rib tapes by "Diego Fernetti" 26) Re: The kit Voisin LAS by Karen Rychlewski 27) AARRGH was Re: german rib tapes by "Graham Hunter" 28) Re: The kit Voisin LAS by Todd Hayes 29) Aeromaster Decals at Squadron by Todd Hayes 30) Model Expo Albatros & Nieuport by "Brian Nicklas" 31) Re: Model Expo Albatros & Nieuport by Todd Hayes 32) Master Club Voisin by Todd Hayes ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 13:57:30 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: MICRO SOL & SET Message-ID: Is Micro-set really necessary? I always use it, but to be honest I think Microsol for everything would work just as well, silly thing is that I've never dared try, I smack on some sol just in case it does some good. Anyone knows? I've never had any problems with Klear/future, but I don't know which it is, I bought it in England 25 yrs ago, still works well, and no problems with staining. /Neil C. > > Avoid using anything that smells like vinegar. It reacts with Future. > Micro-Set smells like vinegar and reacts badly with Future. > Micro-Sol works > just fine with Future. > hth > sp > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 09:06:49 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Re: Model Photos for Gallery Message-ID: <002a01c15d55$e9cfd640$0100005a@ptd.net> > Neil > I was looking at your models in the gallery and noticed the Albatros DV from Jasta 12 with the star of david on the side. I have seen reference on this AC which indicated that the "lines" which make up the star were considerably thinner than those on your AC. Neil...nice job. I also liked the wood finish. Hard to imagine "Sail" works so nicely as your base color! Mark I did this plane awhile ago, before the Eduard kit & decals came out/ and the decals I used (Superscale, I think) also had the lines thinner....fwiw hth Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 09:09:16 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: RE: MICRO SOL & SET Message-ID: <002f01c15d56$403d14c0$0100005a@ptd.net> > Is Micro-set really necessary? I always use it, but to be honest I > think Microsol for everything would work just as well, silly > thing is that I've never dared try, I smack on some sol just in > case it does some good. Anyone knows? Quick answer would be: sometimes. I used to use Set as well as SolvaSet on every decal. Lately, I've found that most don't need much of anything, other than a little Future. For very thick decals, or for "mellting" them around large objects/bumps, etc, is when I use Sol. hth Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 09:14:34 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Re: german rib tapes Message-ID: <004901c15d56$fdeca6c0$0100005a@ptd.net> Techmod decals I use has no rib tapes so I have to make my own. Witold Try EagleStrike decals for the rib tapes. They are beautiful. Come in both scales and 1 sheet has both pink and blue. I used them on the Fokker D-VII in my gallery sections and they went on great. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 15:14:19 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: MICRO SOL & SET Message-ID: Thanks Mike, I see I made a typo there, the question should read: I smack on some SET just in case it does some good. Anyone knows if it does? > -----Original Message----- > From: Muth and Zulick [mailto:muzu@ptd.net] > Sent: den 25 oktober 2001 15:08 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] RE: MICRO SOL & SET > > > > > Is Micro-set really necessary? I always use it, but to be honest I > > think Microsol for everything would work just as well, silly > > thing is that I've never dared try, I smack on some sol just in > > case it does some good. Anyone knows? > Quick answer would be: sometimes. I used to use Set as well > as SolvaSet on > every decal. Lately, I've found that most don't need much of > anything, other > than a little Future. For very thick decals, or for > "mellting" them around > large objects/bumps, etc, is when I use Sol. > hth > Mike Muth > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 09:14:56 -0400 From: Sanjeev Hirve To: "Wwi-List (E-mail)" Subject: Eagle Strike lozenge decals Message-ID: <5F935CCBFB73D511BA2000B0D079E11E01C80D@cyberexch01.internal.evincible.com> Wasnt somebody looking for eagle strike decals? KPL Systems : KPL Systems 703 Cannon Road Silver Spring, MD 20904-3323 Tel/FAX: (301)625-9457 (10:00am - 8:00pm EST/EDT) kplsys@prodigy.net has in stock 1:48 5-colour upper/under, and 1:72 4,5-colour upper/under Contact me offlist if yoiu need more info regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 15:20:42 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: Spelling error. Message-ID: They flew Boeing P12's, I have some IPMS-USA decals for them. /Neil C. > -----Original Message----- > From: Shannon Mark [mailto:Shingend@ix.netcom.com] > Sent: den 25 oktober 2001 05:00 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Spelling error. > > > If you look closely at the Indian Head marking of the > Lafayette Escadrille, > you will see that the bangles at his temples are circles with > the swastika > on them ( or at least, the one side you can see on each side, > and since the > marking was handed....) > > One of the U.S. squadrons in the 'tween wars period > incorporated a black > circular shield with a golden brown edge and swastika centered in the > squadron badge. I don't recall which one. > > .Mark. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 09:24:23 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Re: Good news - mixed with "egads" Message-ID: <007001c15d58$5ce807e0$0100005a@ptd.net> > Now the "egads". no swastikas. Argh!!! But, I was wondering if there is more I can use. I had a similar problem when I was talking with my exchange student from Germany a few years back. I brought up the "outlawing" of the swastika in Germany and tried to bring up some history/free speech issues. She couldn't seem to "understand" either argument. Even though it has been 50+ years since WWII and even though its evil use was for a limited period of time, its stain seems to run so deep people can't forget. Ah well, plenty of WWI schemes to teach them about....and if they want WWII aircraft, there's the Wildcat ;-)) BTW, are you going to "teach" them both scales? Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 09:30:33 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Re: Eduard 1/48 Nieuport 11 Message-ID: <007701c15d59$3977a760$0100005a@ptd.net> > Has anyone built this kit yet In the process. I have the cockpit closed up and am sanding the fuselage. The fit seems pretty good...sanding required because some rigging got stuck in between fuselage halves (don't ask!) The fuselage has an instrument panel....probably not accurate as I think most of the instruments were just stuck on supports, etc. Anyway, I still like using it. The locators for the cockpit stuff work well. I only added some cigar wood(don't know what else to call it) for the framing. Next up, wings and painting. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the Eduard mask system didn't work too good. I'm going to try cutting a mask from tape, using the eduard mask as a template. I like the look of the decals, although I think the only ones I'll be using are for the tapes that go on the interplane struts. Anybody have any problems applying these? hth Mike Muth hth Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 08:39:49 -0500 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Nieuport 11's and 17's - instrument panels Message-ID: This is probably one of those where it will depend on who is using the aircraft. My understanding is that British, and possibly Italian Nieuports had some kind of instrument panel fitted, with the British examples often having a pull-out mapboard, as well. Eduard seems to have done this right in the Nieuport 17 series - the Guynemer kit not having a panel, the RFC version including one. I forget what is in the Profipack kit. Look carefully at the instructions about this, sometimes Eduard does not prominently mention that this is an option for one of the markings choices, alone, in all cases, though the information is somewhere on the page. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 10:03:23 -0400 From: Sanjeev Hirve To: "Wwi-List (E-mail)" Subject: Re: Star of David Albatros Message-ID: <5F935CCBFB73D511BA2000B0D079E11E01C80F@cyberexch01.internal.evincible.com> Neil, This is probably a totally stupid suggestion.... Squadron "Fokker DVIIs in action" and Windsock Fok DVII anthology-1, between them have atleast one photo, a colour profile and a drawing of a Fokker DVII with the star of David. I dont remember if this is a jasta 12 craft. However, if it is, and if the jasta converted to DVIIs from the Albatrosen, then is it not quite possible that the pilot retained almost identical markings over the conversion. If so, the DVII could be a useful supplementary reference. regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 16:32:27 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: german rib tapes Message-ID: <000d01c15d61$df2f1460$65a172d4@FRITZweb> > > My solution is to cut my own rib tapes using decal paper sprayed with > whatever colour you want. Michael, I tried that and failed. I used enamels and I used Gunze Acryl and I used Tamiya. If I sprayed an opaque layer of paint, it cracked when cutting with a new! blade. When I sprayed a non-cracking layer, it was translucent.... At last I tried 'flexible' paint, but as this was available only from a spray can, nothing changed. Hans ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 16:36:37 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Formaplane Message-ID: <001901c15d62$7445e380$65a172d4@FRITZweb> > Grzegorz: the first series was quite good, considering the time when they appeared first. I had the Be2, Fe2, Halberstadt CL II. They had good rips and good details on the fuselage. No white metal parts etc, no pe frets, no decals. I my opinion they took 2nd place only after Warplanes/Rareplanes, when they came out in the late 70's / early 80's. Hans ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 16:44:13 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: The kit Voisin LAS Message-ID: <004301c15d63$83a41a80$65a172d4@FRITZweb> Modelshop runner's motto? "Beware of the buyer/customer" Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lance Krieg" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 11:48 PM Subject: [WWI] Re: The kit Voisin LAS > Martin crows: > > " ergu sum!!!!!!!!!!!!" > > Well, here's some more Latin for you: > > "Caveat emptor" > > If you get it, I'll be standing in line to turn over my money, too, so good luck! > > Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 14:39:14 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: MICRO SOL & SET Message-ID: Neil: The Microset contains acetic acid (vinegar) and is supposed to be used to soften the decals so they can go around curves or whatever. The Microsol has some alcohol content and I'm constantly confused by the variation in results one gets from different companies' decals. For example, Tamiya's appear to be impervious to Microsol and even to its stronger big brother - Solvaset. Other decals react badly to Microsol/Solvaset, transforming themselves into some Picasso-type distortion of their original format. Best to test it out first and keep notes. Michael >From: Crawford Neil >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] RE: MICRO SOL & SET >Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 08:00:29 -0400 (EDT) > >Is Micro-set really necessary? I always use it, but to be honest I >think Microsol for everything would work just as well, silly >thing is that I've never dared try, I smack on some sol just in >case it does some good. Anyone knows? >I've never had any problems with Klear/future, but I don't know >which it is, I bought it in England 25 yrs ago, still works well, >and no problems with staining. >/Neil C. > > > > > Avoid using anything that smells like vinegar. It reacts with Future. > > Micro-Set smells like vinegar and reacts badly with Future. > > Micro-Sol works > > just fine with Future. > > hth > > sp > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 14:48:09 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: german rib tapes Message-ID: Hans: I only use acrylics and not G-S, so I don't know how things work with other paints. The "trick" is NOT to use the point of the blade because that will give you a curly, cracked and not very useful strip. Lay the Exacto #11 blade as flat as possible. I did it for a 1/72nd scale Fokker D.VII and it came out OK: http://www.internetmodeler.com/1999/oct99/aviation/d7-oaw.htm Michael >From: "Hans Trauner" >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Re: german rib tapes >Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 10:28:09 -0400 (EDT) > > > > > My solution is to cut my own rib tapes using decal paper sprayed with > > whatever colour you want. > >Michael, I tried that and failed. I used enamels and I used Gunze Acryl and >I used Tamiya. If I sprayed an opaque layer of paint, it cracked when >cutting with a new! blade. When I sprayed a non-cracking layer, it was >translucent.... At last I tried 'flexible' paint, but as this was available >only from a spray can, nothing changed. > >Hans > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 17:07:46 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: german rib tapes Message-ID: <009701c15d66$ce4106e0$65a172d4@FRITZweb> > > Would it have been such a sin to the camouflage it these > > tapes were also > > wrapped around so that the underside tapes were actually > > upperside fabric? May I draw your attention to the Halberstadt restoration? The restorers had sufficient original material on the wings to make a correct use of the loz tapes: Top loz on top sides, bottom loz on bottom sides. Concerning the width of the leading edge tape there should be no need to wrap the tapes around. See: http://www.wwi-models.org/Photos/Ger/Halb_ClIV/ClIV10.jpg and http://www.wwi-models.org/Photos/Ger/Halb_ClIV/ClIV09.jpg Yours truly, Hans ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 17:03:54 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: show report Message-ID: Hi Shane, Pedro, Michael Yes you are all right, and I'm right too, this is really a unsurmountable problem. You either have to go in the direction of the R/C world-championships, where all competitors have to supply a reference package for each model, or only judge what you see, which is how it's done up here. This method tends to end up in a contest between the best painters, like Euro-Millitaire, the problem with aircraft is that builders get the blunt end of the stick. I think this is a shame because I've noticed a tendency for younger modellers to work hard on their painting techniques, and not waste time on scratch-building anything, this makes for boring competition tables IMO. I think I'm just an old fart who can't accept that this isn't the same hobby I got into 42 years ago. In fact nowadays you can buy die-cast models that are better than most models in competitions were, when I started. P/E, resin etc. have totally changed the hobby, I'm not saying that the hobby is worse for it, just different. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 17:16:24 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: german rib tapes Message-ID: <00e201c15d68$030ab5a0$65a172d4@FRITZweb> > > I only use acrylics and not G-S, so I don't know how things work with other > paints. The "trick" is NOT to use the point of the blade because that will > give you a curly, cracked and not very useful strip. Lay the Exacto #11 > blade as flat as possible AAHHH! Good advice! I love this list... Hans (Sorry for wasting time, space and bandwith, but I had to write that!) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 10:12:27 -0500 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: RE: MICRO SOL & SET Message-ID: <000501c15d67$75db3740$fa0101c0@grahamh> Shane wrote; < To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Biggles Message-ID: My old boss just sent me an envelope containing "Biggles on the west front" , "Biggles flies East", and "Biggles in Spain" , that was rather nice of him don't you think? /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 17:24:30 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: scanners was Re: Cookups Message-ID: Shane wrote: > > No sense of history. Digital photography (at the *current* > state) is a poor > substitute for the real thing. I'd rather have one proper > silver print of a > Robert Capa photo than a whole CD full of CNN videoscrapes. > > I mentioned the new Canon digital cameras to a friend who knows about this sort of thing, and he said "oh those, they're already passed by", I was talking about the new ones that will accept standard SLR lenses and cost about $3000. He said the next generation from Canon (soon arriving) will be something again, and will surpass "classic photography" FWIW /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 11:00:03 -0600 From: john@huggins-leahey.com (John Huggins) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: MICRO SOL & SET Message-ID: The following is probably much more information than most of you want or need to know, but here it is. The intent was that by using all of the products together, you could achieve a more realistic looking finish. When the Sol and Set first came out, they were a part of The complete Microscale Modeling Finishing System. The system was designed to be used in conjunction with their decals which were much thinner than just about anything else that was available. By using the "System" you could virtually eliminate all trapped bubbles and silvering around the decal edges. The "System" included the following: Micro Weld - liquid cement Micro Mask - liquid masking material Micro Gloss - gloss coat to be used as a base coat to give a smooth surface for the decals to go on. Used much the same as Future is today. Micro Sol - wetting agent to be used as on the model surface prior to placing the decal on the surface. This was used to break down the surface tension of the water and prevent trapped air bubbles and make the decal slide around better for final placement. Micro Set - setting solution to go on top of the decal to soften it and make it pull down around bumps and into recesses. Works much the same as Solv-a-set only not as harsh. Micro Kristal Klear - for filling small windows, found its biggest use in airliner models Micro Satin - to be applied as a top or final coat to get a satin finish Micro Flat - to be used as a top or final coat to get a satin finish There were two follow on products which added to the "System", they were: Micro liquid tape - A tacky adhesive for the temporary joining of most any modeling material especially when removal and/or replacement is desired. Micro Metal Foil Adhesive - liquid contact cement for making your own metal foil covering(bare metal panels, etc.) The last product to be introduced was: Micro Liquid Decal Film - clear material to be used for making home made decals. This is basically a liquid material that can be used as a base material and a final covering when making your own decals. The real use was as a top coat for the sheets that came out in the early 1970's that had a very thin top coat and had a tendency to turn into a million little bits when dipped in water. It was normally called "decal saver". Some of these sheets are still found in stores today. Microscale was trying to find the thinnest inks and coatings available, and this period saw a very thin, almost transparent decal. Instead of recalling and reprinting thousands of sheets, they added this product to the line. As far as I know, all of the products are available today, and still work together as well as when first introduced. We have seen other products come along that have superceded some of their abilities, but Sol and Set are still in use today. When used together as intended, you can get decals that appear to have been painted on with virtually no silvering or raised edges. Normal disclaimer: I have nothing to do with the company, just a demented modeler who has used the products and likes them. Really, there was a time when I thought that by buying all of the bits and pieces, special paint and finishing materials, a top notch contest winner would materialize. It took several years and a lot of no winners that I discovered that it also took some basic modeling skills to get the contest winners out of the boxes. In some cases, a little bit of artistic talent and a lot of luck helped as well. Like I said, this was probably more info that you wanted, so I will go back into my cave and work on a model. JP ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 13:10:40 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Biggles Message-ID: <007201c15d6f$975b9880$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> How nice! My old bosses keep sending me menacing notes or restraining orders. I can't understand why. D. OT content: yesterday I tried for the first time "spooning" a piece of scrap styrene. IT WORKS! ----- Original Message ----- From: Crawford Neil To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 12:16 PM Subject: [WWI] Biggles > > My old boss just sent me an envelope containing > "Biggles on the west front" , "Biggles flies East", > and "Biggles in Spain" , that was rather nice of him > don't you think? > /Neil C. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 13:15:25 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Re: german rib tapes Message-ID: <008a01c15d70$412be2c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hans! Besides you may like to try artist's tube acrilics instead of the usual modelling stuff, since it seems more elastic than the modelling variants (except Vallejo figure acrilics). D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Hans Trauner To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 11:28 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: german rib tapes > > > > My solution is to cut my own rib tapes using decal paper sprayed with > > whatever colour you want. > > Michael, I tried that and failed. I used enamels and I used Gunze Acryl and > I used Tamiya. If I sprayed an opaque layer of paint, it cracked when > cutting with a new! blade. When I sprayed a non-cracking layer, it was > translucent.... At last I tried 'flexible' paint, but as this was available > only from a spray can, nothing changed. > > Hans > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 12:19:34 -0400 From: Karen Rychlewski To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: The kit Voisin LAS Message-ID: <3BD83B96.BD6FBFC4@earthlink.net> Todd Hayes wrote: > I have the Master Club Sikorskii S.16 kits. They are > probably the most finely cast resin kits I have. You > can get those from www.aviapress.com but not the > Voisin. Todd, I'm pleased to hear about the quality of those Sikorsky kits. Can you comment on why the version on wheels is nearly twice the price of the version on skis? Dame Karen ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 11:59:42 -0500 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: AARRGH was Re: german rib tapes Message-ID: <000b01c15d76$7174f920$fa0101c0@grahamh> Shane wrote and Pedro agreed: < To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: The kit Voisin LAS Message-ID: <20011025180012.13360.qmail@web11101.mail.yahoo.com> Karen, That's easy. The wheels in the wheeled version are real works of art. I doubt any photoetch spoked wheels could ever look as good. The two kits, including the boxes, are exactly the same except for the wheels. I still can't figure out how they're made. Incredible! You'd have to see them to believe just how much so. Todd --- Karen Rychlewski wrote: > Todd Hayes wrote: > > > I have the Master Club Sikorskii S.16 kits. They > are > > probably the most finely cast resin kits I have. > You > > can get those from www.aviapress.com but not the > > Voisin. > > Todd, I'm pleased to hear about the quality of those > Sikorsky kits. Can > you comment on why the version on wheels is nearly > twice the price of > the version on skis? > > Dame Karen > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 11:26:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Aeromaster Decals at Squadron Message-ID: <20011025182657.24515.qmail@web11105.mail.yahoo.com> Hi all, Squadron lists a major restock of Aeromaster decals. I'm not sure just what OT sets they have, but anyone looking for a specific sheet might be able to get them for a brief time. Todd __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 14:59:30 -0400 From: "Brian Nicklas" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Model Expo Albatros & Nieuport Message-ID: The Model Airways/Model Expo Albatros D.Va and Nieuport 28 in 1/16 are Now not $199.99, not $119.99, but $99.99. http://www.modelexpoinc.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 12:13:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Model Expo Albatros & Nieuport Message-ID: <20011025191311.50666.qmail@web11104.mail.yahoo.com> Brian, Quit tempting me! Please!! Todd --- Brian Nicklas wrote: > The Model Airways/Model Expo Albatros D.Va and > Nieuport 28 in 1/16 are > Now not $199.99, not $119.99, but $99.99. > > http://www.modelexpoinc.com/ > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 12:18:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Master Club Voisin Message-ID: <20011025191851.31724.qmail@web11105.mail.yahoo.com> Looks like it might be for real this time. Like Martin, I am supposed to have one on order with the same time considerations as Martin's post mentioned. Approximately two weeks to confirm. Since Scale Models from Russia is based in Moscow, they might actually have access to the Voisin kit. I'll cross my fingers, my toes, and my eyes, and wait. Todd __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3833 **********************