WWI Digest 3789 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... by "Mark Shannon" 2) Creamcoat/Future ratio? plus retarder?? by VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com 3) Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... by "Gaston Graf" 4) RE: Odp: RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... by "Gaston Graf" 5) Dave Vosburgh by Sanjeev Hirve 6) Re: Airbrushes by "Ken Acosta" 7) RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 8) Re: Airbrushes - Badger by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 9) Re: The Cost of R/C by "Lyle Lamboley" 10) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 11) Re: Airbrush by "Laskodi" 12) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "dfernet0" 13) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "Michael Kendix" 14) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 15) RE: L.M.G.08 question by "David Watts" 16) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "dfernet0" 17) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "Michael Kendix" 18) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "Michael Kendix" 19) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "dfernet0" 20) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "Bob Pearson" 21) Re: Vimy? by "James Fahey" 22) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "Michael Kendix" 23) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "dfernet0" 24) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by "Michael Kendix" 25) Re: Vimy? by "Michael Kendix" 26) RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... by LEONARDPeterL@aol.com 27) RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings by Todd Hayes 28) New Images by "Graham Hunter" 29) Vimy? by "cameron rile" 30) Re: New Images by "tsollers" 31) Re: Creamcoat/Future ratio? plus retarder?? by "Steven Perry" 32) Re: Creamcoat/Future ratio? plus retarder?? by "Michael Kendix" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:47:38 -0500 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: How about, you go on a business trip, and after checking into your motel room, the first things you do are check the TV channels while looking under 'Hobbies' in the Yellow Pages. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:02:59 EDT From: VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Creamcoat/Future ratio? plus retarder?? Message-ID: <10f.67375f6.28f5cb33@aol.com> In a message dated 10/9/2001 4:59:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mflake@tarrantcounty.com writes: << I "thin" the Ceramcoat with Future whether I'm air brushing or hand brushing. I do not get brush strokes with Future-thinned Ceramcoat when hand brushing. >> I'm just getting ready to try using creamcoats and was wondering just what ratio of paint / future seems to work best with the creamcoats? They do seem quite a bit thick for use in an airbrush, then there's the retarder, I am using the Aztec 470 airbrush. Would someone like to explain how they make up a batch for spraying? Thanks again for all the help people. Best regards, Jon ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:07:48 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: To add my 2 cents to this: ... when you see badly weathered machines on the road, like trucks, excavators or any kind of working machines, and you automatically think it over how to simulate the weathering effects on a model. ... when you see true weathering effects as an art rather than a damage. ... when you look at people through the eyes of a figure painter to catch the shadows of the folds in the clothing, or the expression in their faces. ... when you closely examine wrapping materials for usage in modeling *before* you finally and sadly decide to throw it away. ... when you notice *somebody* is talking to you but you cannot answer her because your right half of the brain still has control over the brush in your hand. Maybe somebody should collect all of these things from everyone and save it as one file that can be loaded from the WW1 Models website? Would ad be a nice touch to it ;o). Gasterix > > > Yes of course, and any business trip by checking out the museum locations. > /Neil C. > > > > > > > .. if you start any holiday trip with a research where the hobby shops > > are... > > > > Hans > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:12:26 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: Odp: RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: ROTFLMAO - that's the best one so far! Maybe your friend found a can of German Luftwaffe paint in a shed and used it at home? Gasterix ;o) > > Even worse - I've noticed someday that iron 'railing' at my friend's > staircase is painted in RLM 02 grau, exactly like my SCW Bf 109B - he > looked at me as if I were elephant! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:23:26 -0400 From: Sanjeev Hirve To: "Wwi-List (E-mail)" Subject: Dave Vosburgh Message-ID: <5F935CCBFB73D511BA2000B0D079E11E01C72F@cyberexch01.internal.evincible.com> Hi Dave, My mail to you is bouncing on the dave@vga-graphics.com address. Any other way to contact you? regards SSH ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 11:23:23 -0500 From: "Ken Acosta" To: Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_F7AD0516.B0D1975B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline Neil writes: "All this talk about air brushes has been quite timely as I've been lately = considering replacing my fixed head beginners Badger with a new finer = model. I was looking at a Aztek set with different size nozzles but all = the talk about the Paasche H has convinced me that this might be the go. = Also one of the bigger model shops here has them at a reasonable price = plus the additional nozzles...So a final question - which is simpler to = use the Aztek or the Paasche?" I've been using a Badger 200 for the past 15 years or so. I spent some = time with a Paasche VL and enjoyed the dual action feature, but got = overwhelmed with the time required to clean the thing. Since I clean = after each color (sometimes 5 or 6 times in one modeling session), I need = a tool that's relatively simple while still providing decent results. Any = headaches from my Badger experience have been due to either paint/thinner = mis-use or the odd bent needle tip or worn out teflon O-ring. Anyone else = out there speaking well of the Badger 200? Just wondering- KA --=_F7AD0516.B0D1975B Content-Type: text/plain Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="TEXT.htm"
Neil writes:
"All this talk about air brushes has been quite timely as I've been lately considering replacing my fixed head beginners Badger with a new finer model. I was looking at a Aztek set with different size nozzles but all the talk about the Paasche H has convinced me that this might be the go. Also one of the bigger model shops here has them at a reasonable price plus the additional nozzles...So a final question - which is simpler to use the Aztek or the Paasche?"


I've been using a Badger 200 for the past 15 years or so.  I spent some time with a Paasche VL and enjoyed the dual action feature, but got overwhelmed with the time required to clean the thing.  Since I clean after each color (sometimes 5 or 6 times in one modeling session), I need a tool that's relatively simple while still providing decent results.  Any headaches from my Badger experience have been due to either paint/thinner mis-use or the odd bent needle tip or worn out teflon O-ring.  Anyone else out there speaking well of the Badger 200?
Just wondering-
KA
--=_F7AD0516.B0D1975B-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:37:51 +0200 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: <021901c151a9$e825d180$0200a8c0@x.pl> From: Gaston Graf > Maybe your friend found a can of German Luftwaffe paint in a shed and used > it at home? Thanks, Gasterix! BTW, there are very few original III Reich things in Poland. It can be surprising, on our soil were enough WWII fights, but shortly after the war almost all left equipment was taken by Soviet (even railroad rails were taken, and even in pre-war Polish port of Gdynia Soviet officer ordered to take all rails and port facilities in 1945, but Polish soldiers protested and it was real shooting there!). Also all remains like airplanes (eg. nice Me 108s) were scratched, for propaganda purposes - communist government just begun production of Polikarpov Po-2 biplane, as a top performance airplane... Also two Spitfires given by RAF were scratched in late '40s, and finally our Aviation Museum had to give Brits original DH-4 (obligatory content!) for Spitfire in late '80s. Another sad story from our history... G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:42:11 +0200 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Re: Airbrushes - Badger Message-ID: <022301c151ab$69688700$0200a8c0@x.pl> Hi! I've got Badger 150 which is very good for me. My friend, who is professional architectural painter uses Paasche (I don't know what model) (he paints pictures how projected building will look - his hand airbrushed paintings are much better than any computer renderings, and he sell his works to Italy and Sweeden too) G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:49:33 -0400 From: "Lyle Lamboley" To: Subject: Re: The Cost of R/C Message-ID: <001701c151ab$8c1c31c0$44f0aec7@lylelamb> I agree with Al, it's worth it, and if you can nickle and dime your way through a project, then it's not bad money spent. One doesn't need to buy an expensive kit for any model--I mean, if you wanted a Hannover Cl.III, you'd have to scratchbuild it from plans. In the end, the airplane can be the cheapest part of the whole hobby--I've done some calculations on the amount of wood for a 1/4 scale model, and it came into the $60 range, more or less. The expensive stuff is always the engine and the radio. The initial costs are always high, though, but once going, it doesn't need massive injections of money to keep it going. Funny how similar this hobby is to the full-scale versions, I saw the cost breakdown of a Camel from the War; the airframe was incredibly cheap, but the Bentley rotary was in the range of 800 pounds (1918 prices, of course). Besides, when compared to lotteries and gambling, it's not money down the drain, not by a long shot. Cheers, Lyle ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allan Wright" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 11:45 AM Subject: [WWI] Re: The Cost of R/C > Well I fly R/C - it's fun, and if you want to do Scale WWI planes, it's > not cheap, probably several times the cost of scale plastic models. But > then again there's nothing like seeing that Fokker D-VIII you build to a > 'strafing run' on the field. > > Now that micro RC equipment is really affordable ($100 to outfit a plane > with receiver, servos and speed control) you can fly in the neighborhood > park or ballfield easilly. > > So, yes it's expensive, but I feel it's worth it. > > Al ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 19:06:46 +0200 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: <023101c151ae$1194ac40$0200a8c0@x.pl> Maybe it is possible to use Academy SPAD XIII wings to make master (or single conversion) for SPAD VII. I've not checked dimensions, but technically it is possible to 'shave' 'corrugated iron' effect, and have good wings (also airlons needs to be shorter) G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:10:01 -0700 From: "Laskodi" To: "WWI List Post" Subject: Re: Airbrush Message-ID: <001c01c151ae$66351a00$4f3819d0@f4hn201> <<>> It all depends! With a #3 tip you won't be able to get all that close (I don't use my #3 tip any longer, I prefer to stick with the #1 for everything). With my #1 tip while doing mottle or detail camo patterns for those BF$%^ thingies I get as close as 2-5mm. For broad area coverage I am usually spraying from 3-6 inches. For detail work at low air pressure and paint volumes you will be very close to the model. For broad coverage at higher air pressures and paint volume you can't get that close or the paint will run. If your paint runs while spraying you're either too close or spraying too much paint through the nozzle. With a given nozzle opening the same, more (higher) air pressure will move more paint through the nozzle. HTH -----------Bob ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 14:22:48 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: <039401c151b0$2ef533c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> I've been there Grzes, but it's much more work than doing them from blank wing stock. You save the time of sanding and thinning the type XIII wings. I don't know, maybe the Spad XII wings (from pegausus) are closer to the type XII. D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Grzegorz Mazurowski To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 2:06 PM Subject: [WWI] RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings > Maybe it is possible to use Academy SPAD XIII wings to make master > (or single conversion) for SPAD VII. I've not checked dimensions, but > technically it is possible to 'shave' 'corrugated iron' effect, and > have good wings (also airlons needs to be shorter) > G. > > > _________________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:17:47 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: >From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" >Maybe it is possible to use Academy SPAD XIII wings to make master >(or single conversion) for SPAD VII. I've not checked dimensions, but >technically it is possible to 'shave' 'corrugated iron' effect... Time to get out my Braun razor:)! Would an electric do the trick I wonder? I think the simplest thing is to use the Rosemont vac wing blanks. I don't fancy making masters though - mine would probably be of insufficiently high quality. I thought I'd do the ribbing by painting thick layers of acrylic paint on decal paper and then cutting strips. The real one in the Paris museum has ribs that are very moest in size. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 19:35:29 +0200 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: <023b01c151b1$fa733500$0200a8c0@x.pl> Michael! > Time to get out my Braun razor:)! I'm using Philips :-) > I think the simplest thing is to use the Rosemont vac wing blanks. Yes, but getting it can be harder! > The real one in the Paris > museum has ribs that are very moest in size. Exactly! Also one in Francesco Baracca museum! I thin that one can even only paint ribs on wing, in 1/72 at last. G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:28:32 -0500 From: "David Watts" To: Subject: RE: L.M.G.08 question Message-ID: Hi Gaston, I wrote Colin directly to see if I can help him out. I had been out of the country for the last two and a half weeks, so was late in replying on this. Best, Dave W. -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Gaston Graf Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 12:32 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] L.M.G.08 question This is for the weapon specialists among you. I received this mail from a visitor of my website today but cannot imagine what he is talking about. Maybe one of you can? The man neess help to indentify a part that he believes belongs to a German LMG08 machine gun. Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de ---------------------------------------------------------- Dear Mr. Graf: I have a gadget that I believe is associated with WW I German aircraft armament. It consists of a piece of light spring steel in the form of an upside-down 'U', with the U flat on top. It is 50mm across the top and about 35 mm on each of the arms. A flat shaft is riveted to the top of the spring, about 65mm long. It mounts a piece of smoked glass in a holder. An assembly slides down the shaft, consisting of the mounts for two mirrors, about 35mm by 25mm. They are set 270 degrees apart. The only markings on the piece are LMG 08 stamped on the shaft. I presume this refers to the 'luftgekult MG 08', the aircraft version of the M.G. 08 that was used before it was realized the LMG version of the MG 08/15 was lighter and possibly more reliable. It fits nicely down on the receiver of my M.G. 08. Of possible significance: it is not stamped with the 'crown over letter' mark that is found on most Imperial German firearms parts. It is much too flimsy to have remained in place while in flight. I have heard the explanation that it was used on the ground to align the two machine guns so their barrels were parallel, but there msut have been simpler means for doing that. You could just take out the locks, open the port at the backplate and look down the barrels. I could send you pictures if that would help. They'll have to go 'snail mail' as I have no scanner. I had another one of these contraptions. The spring was a lot different and the mirrors a lot simpler. It was only marked D.R.G.M. which I think means 'patented'. I sent it to a friend in New Zealand to see if it would fit his Parabellum. It doesn't, but he's still got it. Any help in identifying this, and describing how it was used would be appreciated. Also any referral to anyone who can answer these questions. Yours truly, Colin Doane --- Colin Doane --- crdoane@earthlink.net --- EarthLink: It's your Internet. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 14:42:54 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: <03b801c151b2$fe042e80$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Michael, Grzes I thought I'd do the ribbing by painting thick layers of acrylic > paint on decal paper and then cutting strips. The real one in the Paris > museum has ribs that are very moest in size. Would the decal ribs be strong enough to be handled as a master? Maybe stretched styrene "á la Casirati" would be better. What do you think Alberto? D. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:46:33 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: >From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" > > Time to get out my Braun razor:)! >I'm using Philips :-) Of course, you prefer Dutch to German? > > I think the simplest thing is to use the Rosemont vac wing blanks. >Yes, but getting it can be harder! Rosemont Hobby has them for $8.95 per pack - 10 sets of wings per set. Build what you want, how you want:). Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:49:06 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: >From: "dfernet0" >>Michael, Grzes >I thought I'd do the ribbing by painting thick layers of acrylic > > paint on decal paper and then cutting strips. The real one in the Paris > > museum has ribs that are very moest in size. > >Would the decal ribs be strong enough to be handled as a master? Maybe >stretched styrene "á la Casirati" would be better. >What do you think Alberto? Exactly! Now you're talking. My experiences with stretched sprue have been disappointing at best and somewhat hazardous at worst. No detailed explanations please about how easy it is, unless you want to come over to my house and show me for yourself. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 15:00:04 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: <03d201c151b5$63cb8fe0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Michael wrote: > My experiences with stretched sprue have been > disappointing at best and somewhat hazardous at worst. I tried the stretched sprue on the Taube wings, but as I found out after glueing umpteenth pieces of hsp on the undersides, the hsp diameter is quite difficult to remain the same, and using it side by side makes clear that not every hsp is equal to another. D. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:58:18 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: <3BC4896D000004C7@mail.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) Pay my way and I'll be there ASAP and show you Bob PS. . it IS very easy ---------- >From: "Michael Kendix" >>Would the decal ribs be strong enough to be handled as a master? Maybe >>stretched styrene "á la Casirati" would be better. >>What do you think Alberto? > > Exactly! Now you're talking. My experiences with stretched sprue have been > disappointing at best and somewhat hazardous at worst. No detailed > explanations please about how easy it is, unless you want to come over to my > house and show me for yourself. > > Michael > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 07:00:08 +1300 From: "James Fahey" To: Subject: Re: Vimy? Message-ID: <001d01c151b5$66a1e160$0290a7cb@computer> Jon wrote: > Has anyone seen the Eastern Expess Vimy Bomber yet? I saw it listed on > Squadron's site and was just wondering what's in the box and how it look's. I > also saw the Roden Gotha G.lV listed for $12.99. Jon was this some time ago? I just checked Squadron and the Gotha was listed at $25.96 Cheers James ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:08:46 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: >From: "dfernet0" > >I tried the stretched sprue on the Taube wings, but as I found out >after >glueing umpteenth pieces of hsp on the undersides, the hsp >diameter is >quite difficult to remain the same, and using it side by >side makes clear >that not every hsp is equal to another. Oh, but Diego, don't you realize that making hsp is the easiest thing on earth - much more easy than say, falling off a log or something. All you do is heat up the grey plastic left over from the Aurora model of the DH12b/III. What, you don't have that? Well, that's what you're doing wrong. Anyway, when you've got that plastic, heat it over a candle flame at 0106 hours ZULU - the earth must be rotating at a certain velocity (don't forget to make the Bernoulli Adjustment for being in the Southern hemisphere). The sprue should be heated to a temperature no greater than 198 degrees celcius and no less than 197.98 degrees. While it's nice and shiny, stick it on the cat's back and make a loud sudden noise so the cat runs away really quickly. Then sand off the fur and other debris from the plastic, and voila! A perfect 12 metre length of stretched sprue, with a uniform diameter of .006 inches. Was that easy or wot! Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 15:29:48 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: <040901c151b9$8b42e060$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Michael > Was that easy or wot! > Wow Michael, that's it! I was using a Chihuahua dog to stretch the sprue. Sure it was easy for Bob 'cos he has a supply of fresh cats to play. Seriously, there's a nice article written by Steve Perry on the APMA magazine that explains a fernetti-proof method to stetch your sprue the way you always wanted. I'll search for it if Lorna or Shane doesn't post it first on the list. D. My chihuahua just keeps saying "yo quiero Taco Bell". Gee, I hate that critter. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:32:52 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: >From: "dfernet0" >Wow Michael, that's it! I was using a Chihuahua dog to stretch the >sprue. Utter madness! Those dogs are tiny but fearless. When you do the bit with making a loud noise to scare them, they leap at your throat and the sprue gets all tangled. We have one up the street. I walk past his house every day to catch the bus. To him, I know I am just a walking potential food source. To me, he is a potential Christmas Tree ornament. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:23:38 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Vimy? Message-ID: >From: "James Fahey" > > Has anyone seen the Eastern Expess Vimy Bomber yet? I saw it listed on > > Squadron's site and was just wondering what's in the box and how it >look's. I > > also saw the Roden Gotha G.lV listed for $12.99. > >Jon was this some time ago? I just checked Squadron and the Gotha was >listed >at $25.96 US$25.96 is in the SMO October Flyer. Best deal out there is AU$37 at NKR Models. With the exchange rate and the tax deducted, it is US$16.90. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 15:26:48 EDT From: LEONARDPeterL@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: <131.2ce0ae1.28f5faf8@aol.com> I'm sure he won't mind my telling you this but Brian Derbyshire, leading light of IPMSUK's USAF SIG, replies with the FS number when asked how he takes his tea or coffee. It wouldn't surprize me to descover he stirs it with his Dremel (ooh er missus!) cheers Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:45:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Spad Afficionados-Wings Message-ID: <20011010194554.6877.qmail@web11107.mail.yahoo.com> Hi Michael, Sounds easy to me. So why doesn't it ever work? Todd --- Michael Kendix wrote: > >From: "dfernet0" > > > >I tried the stretched sprue on the Taube wings, but > as I found out >after > >glueing umpteenth pieces of hsp on the undersides, > the hsp >diameter is > >quite difficult to remain the same, and using it > side by >side makes clear > >that not every hsp is equal to another. > > Oh, but Diego, don't you realize that making hsp is > the easiest thing on > earth - much more easy than say, falling off a log > or something. All you do > is heat up the grey plastic left over from the > Aurora model of the > DH12b/III. What, you don't have that? Well, that's > what you're doing > wrong. Anyway, when you've got that plastic, heat > it over a candle flame at > 0106 hours ZULU - the earth must be rotating at a > certain velocity (don't > forget to make the Bernoulli Adjustment for being in > the Southern > hemisphere). The sprue should be heated to a > temperature no greater than > 198 degrees celcius and no less than 197.98 degrees. > While it's nice and > shiny, stick it on the cat's back and make a loud > sudden noise so the cat > runs away really quickly. Then sand off the fur and > other debris from the > plastic, and voila! A perfect 12 metre length of > stretched sprue, with a > uniform diameter of .006 inches. > > Was that easy or wot! > > Michael > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 14:52:10 -0500 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: New Images Message-ID: <000501c151c5$0d8c7300$fa0101c0@grahamh> Mark, I love your Le Rhone Masterpiece. Very, very nice. Can't wait to see the N.17 :-) I have a colour copy of a 110 Le Rhone from a childrens HOw it Works encyclopedia. It has the "inside" crankcase cover removed to expose the push/pull rod cam and some of the crank. A very good reference photo. Your renderings are just as good... Graham H. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:14:05 -0400 From: "cameron rile" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Vimy? Message-ID: Jon, >Has anyone seen the Eastern Express >Vimy Bomber yet? I ordered it about a week ago and have for the last three days gone home after work like Pavlovs dog. Fingers crossed it greets me today ...... so should be able to tell you soon. There was a thread on it recently that it was a re-release of a non-inspiring kit from the past but I want to have a go at the Smith brothers GEAUO so I bought it. cam ______________________________________________________________ Get Your Free E-mail at http://www.prontomail.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:38:09 -0400 From: "tsollers" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: New Images Message-ID: <200110102038.f9AKcAT27895@mail.bcpl.net> Mark: Simply beautiful! Very convincing metallic surfaces and tonal changes on those fins! Can't wait to see the Nieuport 17. Tom ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:51:37 -0400 From: "Steven Perry" To: Subject: Re: Creamcoat/Future ratio? plus retarder?? Message-ID: <009b01c151cd$5bd955c0$61e82341@tampabay.rr.com> > I'm just getting ready to try using creamcoats and was wondering just what > ratio of paint / future seems to work best with the creamcoats? I use an old Model Master(pre-Aztec) single action airbrush. I thin my Ceramacoat and Liquitex acrylics with Future. I use some future (50/50 or a little less) in mixing colors for the stock solution. This is too thick for my airbrush, so I thin that even more with Future when I go to spray. I haven't used a retarder. If I have to set the brush down for more than a few minutes, I take the tip off and drop it in a little jar of windex. When ready to paint again I re-attach the tip and remove the paint cup. I feed windex to the brush from an eyedropper while spraying. Then I put the cup back on and spray on paper or a rag until I get a pure paint stream again. Seems to work well with this style airbrush sp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 21:15:49 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Creamcoat/Future ratio? plus retarder?? Message-ID: >From: "Steven Perry" > >If I have to set the brush down for more than a few minutes, I take >the >tip off and drop it in a little jar of windex. When ready to paint >again I >re-attach the tip and remove the paint cup... Steve: That's fine but when I take the tip off my T&C it's sooooo sophisticated that the paint all pours out the end! Maybe I need to use something that I can understand like an ordinary brush with bristles. Len Smith and Nigel Rayner could have been right all this time... hmm... Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3789 **********************