WWI Digest 3788 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: The Cost of R/C by "Lee M." 2) Re: EK by "Lee M." 3) RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... by "Mark Shannon" 4) RE: The Cost of R/C by Crawford Neil 5) RE: The Cost of R/C by "Ross Moorhouse" 6) Today in history - The Italian front by "a.casirati@cornali-trasporti.it" 7) Re: Books for sale by Bill Schmidt 8) RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... by "Marcio Antonio Campos" 9) Skybirds will not happen after all... by "Robert Norgren" 10) RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados by "Harris, Mack" 11) Re: Airbrush by "Muth and Zulick" 12) Re: Russian pilots in Osprey Nieuport & SPAD Aces books? by "Muth and Zulick" 13) Belgian Nieuport by "Muth and Zulick" 14) RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados by "dfernet0" 15) RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados by Crawford Neil 16) Vimy? by JVT7532@aol.com 17) =?big5?Q?=A4j=AEa=A8=D3=C1=C8=BF=FA?= by wild.wolf@msa.hinet.net 18) RE: Vimy? by Crawford Neil 19) RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados by "dfernet0" 20) Odp: RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... by "Grzegorz Mazurowski" 21) Ni28 was RE: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados by Crawford Neil 22) Quick HELP Please!! by "Ken Acosta" 23) Re: Quick HELP Please!! by VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com 24) RE: Ni28 was RE: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados by "dfernet0" 25) Re: The Cost of R/C by "Hans Trauner" 26) Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... by "Hans Trauner" 27) RE: Ni28 was RE: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados by Crawford Neil 28) Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... by Crawford Neil 29) Re: The Cost of R/C by Allan Wright ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 07:22:02 -0500 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: The Cost of R/C Message-ID: <3BC43D6A.B389DBFD@x25.net> Not to very long ago I was down at the Air field north east of Seguin, Texas where the local R.C. guys go on Saturdays and Sunday. The south west corner is open for use with paved runways and the whole deal. Suddenly one of the planes went out of control. Apparently it was a "wild and illegal signal", which happens more often than it should, that took over the plane for a few moment and I saw $1200- $1500 of RC equipment dive straight down into the ground at about 60-70 MPH. The engine went close to 10 inches into the dirt alongside the runway. It was totalled as well. Small craft and engines are not expensive. Large aircraft and suitable engines are. Sailplanes cost less and seem to be so stable they crash far less frequently. So the choice is still up to the builder owner. Models is models whether they be plastic, static displays, made of various stuff, or RC . It will cost you whatever you want to spend on it. There are few cheap hobbies. Just ask your wife. (If you have one...) Lee M. New Braunfels, Tx Crawford Neil wrote: > Tom you're playing in another division, this is the "starting" cost > of R/C flying. Everyone knows that from then on costs for hobbies > follow an exponential curve, plastic modelling certainly does, and > from what I've heard so does RC flying. You should compare $600 > with the starting cost of plastic modelling which is about $6. > > In truth $600 isn't so much, what steered me away from RC flying > was simply, why stay on the ground flying, when you can do it for > real at the local gliding club, for not much more. In the end > I didn't have time for that either, the "local" club was 50 miles > away. Plastic modelling is nice because I can stay at home and do > it. I do have all respect for you R/C guys, I enjoy reading about > it, and admire your gung-ho attitude, just not for me. > /Neil C. > > Tom wrote: > > To get to the point, I now tell all prospective flyers that > > they can expect > > to spend no more than $600.00 USD. > > This works out to: > > $85.00 for a trainer kit > > $40.00 for the plastic covering film ( Monokote or Ultracoat) > > $70.00 for a good .40 sized two stroke engine > > $170.00 for a bottom of the line dependable four channel radio > > and the balance of the 600 will go to tools, glue, flight > > line equipment > > etc. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 07:25:40 -0500 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: EK Message-ID: <3BC43E44.858519B9@x25.net> Extremely true. It is a nasty substance and lots of air around you is more than highly recommended. Once it was used as a thinner for spray painting..... Power venting is absolutely essential. Lee m. New Braunfels, Tx Nigel Cheffers-Heard wrote: > MEK is poisonous, and you must NOT get it on your skin, it gets > absorbed. Causes liver failure, just like all the best organic > solvents.... :) > Lovely smell, if you are into those things.... > N > Nigel Cheffers-Heard > photography + design > > tel: +44 (0)1392 87 58 57 > fax: +44 (0)1392 87 74 97 > mobile: 0771 261 4514 > nigelch@cheffers.co.uk > www.cheffers.co.uk > > Laburnums, Bridge Hill > Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ, UK ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 07:20:27 -0500 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: dfernet0 wrote: >- You see a new car with a great colour and instantly you think in the >humbrol/FS/Methuen match of the paint instead of thinking just "a dark green >car" or "a cherry red car". Actually, I did something similar to this when my wife decided I needed to replace a lot of shirts at once about a year ago. When we walked into the dress shirt section of Penny's, I told her that apparently lozenge camouflage colors were in style, and picked a few off the table to show the 'four color uppersurface' combination. She still brings it up whenever we go clothing shopping, as in, 'you're not going to do something like that again. are you?' Course, we took a quick look at cars this last weekend, and I pointed out the FS numbers of a few.... .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 14:33:22 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: The Cost of R/C Message-ID: I have a friend who sold his Norton Commando to save money, he decided botany would be a cheap hobby. Wrong again, he's spent a fortune on books and travelling. You're right Lee! /Neil C. > There are few cheap hobbies. Just ask your wife. (If you > have one...) > > Lee M. > New Braunfels, Tx > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 22:42:49 +1000 From: "Ross Moorhouse" To: Subject: RE: The Cost of R/C Message-ID: <00a701c15189$13213f80$aaf13c3f@umber> NOOOO !!! Never sell a Norton Commando.. AARRGGHHH what a crime... Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Crawford Neil" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 10:36 PM Subject: [WWI] RE: The Cost of R/C | I have a friend who sold his Norton Commando to save money, | he decided botany would be a cheap hobby. Wrong again, | he's spent a fortune on books and travelling. | | You're right Lee! | /Neil C. | | | | | | > There are few cheap hobbies. Just ask your wife. (If you | > have one...) | > | > Lee M. | > New Braunfels, Tx | > | > | ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 14:44:37 +0200 From: "a.casirati@cornali-trasporti.it" To: "Wwi Modeling List (Posta elettronica)" Subject: Today in history - The Italian front Message-ID: <43EB244779F3D411966E0060082C59E906F1C1@SERVER1> The eight Isonzo Battle begins on the Italian front, to help the Roumanian's war effort. Alberto Casirati ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 08:58:06 -0400 From: Bill Schmidt To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Books for sale Message-ID: <20011010.085808.-280379.0.ah100m@juno.com> If you have it, I"ll buy the Datafile on the Fokker EV/DVIII. Please let me know Bill Schmidt On Tue, 9 Oct 2001 17:12:29 -0400 (EDT) "Shaun Howell" writes: >Having just finished up a VERY big trade, I have doubles of a lot of >WWI >books & magazines. I'll eventually post these on eBay, but thought I'd >give >you folks first shot. > >WINDSOCK INTERNATIONAL Vol.1 #4 >WINDSOCK INTERNATIONAL Vol.2 #1-4 >WINDSOCK DATAFILES #3-54 >CROSS & COCKADE INTERNATIONAL Vol.22 #1-3 > >I'll sell ($8.00 each) or trade for 1/48 scale kits. > >Contact me off list. > >Thanks! ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:18:16 -0300 From: "Marcio Antonio Campos" To: Subject: RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: <001301c1518e$0654ef40$581ba8c0@officesp.starmedia> ... you are in the bus station to go to your home city. A friend sees a "post-modern" bus and says "what a beautiful car!" and you reply "yes, but the insignia wasn't well chosen" Marcio Antonio Campos Redator do GuiaSP StarMedia do Brasil +55 11 30436421 marcio.campos@starmedia.net http://www.guiasp.com.br http://www.guiarj.com.br http://www.nacidade.com.br ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 09:19:06 -0400 From: "Robert Norgren" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Skybirds will not happen after all... Message-ID: This was posted today to Hyperscale by Glenn Ashley and retracts the announcement he made only a day or two ago about the re-emergence of Skybirds (probably because of some very negative feedback from the original announcement, ie., most people wanted the reissue of the Scimitar and other postwar subjects and not the WWI subjects listed.): "Skybirds'GB...........crashed and burned!! October 10 2001 at 5:23 AM Glenn Ashley After my posting recently that I had an agreement to co-release the old Skybirds'86 kits I have to say this looks highly unlikely to happen now. The other person involved seems to now feel that its not worth the effort to get these kits back out so sadly it looks like they will not appear again as Skybirds. But life goes on! I apologise to having built up hopes of many modellers interested in this era of aviation modelling with potential kits as listed. But maybe you can let me know your feelings about what interest you had in kits of subjects like the Aviatik C.I, Curtiss HS-1/2L etc? Or other inter war USN/USAAC aircraft. I wish we could offer these subjects to you. Glenn Ashley" Bob Norgren Sierra Scale Models _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 08:26:03 -0500 From: "Harris, Mack" To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados Message-ID: What medium would the masters need to be in, wood, metal, plastic, resin? Inquiring minds and all Mack -----Original Message----- From: Matt Bittner [mailto:tbittners@sprintmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 6:05 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [WWI] RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados On Wed, 10 Oct 2001 06:44:21 -0400 (EDT), dfernet0 wrote: > As Neil said, wings. Rosemont does a set of blank vacuformed wings that can > be used and that are easier to work with than modifying the kit wings or the > Spad XIII wings. A new set of struts will be neat as well. > It also needs reworking the front fuselage "bumps" that are the covers of > the engine V blocks. I guess that they are a bit undersized. You can > superdetail it thoroughly or just emphasize the rear fuselage ribbing, > scraping lightly with a hobby knife along the stringers. You know, whomever would like to take this on and make "masters" for all the replacement parts, I bet we can get Barry to agree to come out with resin replacements. Seriously think about it. I was going to do it, but I became burned out on making masters... Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 09:40:37 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Re: Airbrush Message-ID: <009501c15191$25e113e0$0100005a@ptd.net> > I've enjoyed this talk about airbrushes. As have I. One question though. I use a Paasche H with #3 tip. How close should the tip of the airbrush be to the model when spraying? Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 09:43:34 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Re: Russian pilots in Osprey Nieuport & SPAD Aces books? Message-ID: <009901c15191$8e719240$0100005a@ptd.net> SPAD Aces books? > How is the coverage of the Eastern Front/Russian Civil War in these? In the SPAD 7 Aces book, there is a section devoted to Russian Aces. Some pictures and a few profiles. If you have read any of Jon Guttman stuff before, this is similar. In fact, some of the info is found in the old Aerodrome Modeler (?) Bob obtained for us a while ago. I like the series. There is a neat profile of Thaw's SPAD 7 in 5 color French Camo with a red T in a black circle. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 09:47:07 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Belgian Nieuport Message-ID: <00a001c15192$0d6ff280$0100005a@ptd.net> Matt, and anyone else out there: I have finished doing the 2 color camo on this bird and am getting ready to apply the Eduard mask to get (hopefully) that nice outline affect. I was going to go with CDL, same as the underneath color. However, when I look at the picture in the "In Action" book, the tapes/outline look so much like silver. I know, b&w photo and I'm not a member of the color police, but I'm wondering if the underneath could have been CDL with the outline silver? A lot of extra work in the field, I suspect. Any ideas? tia Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 11:21:00 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados Message-ID: <029201c15196$c963f500$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Thanks for the kind words Neil! > Incidentally, I always do u/c vee's in one piece, for strength, > it takes an evening to sand them out, boring but worth it. I'll try this on the N28, if the original vees doesn't fit the modified firewall I pasted on the fuselage. D. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:24:45 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados Message-ID: Notice I said "finishing things" not finishing, we've seen you're good at that on your Albatross and Nieuport on the gallery. And very glad that you're struggling on with your Ni28, keep at it. I don't think the original vees will fit, they didn't on mine after correcting the fuselage behind/beneath the engine cowling. IIRC they are pretty awful. I thought you were going to use Ni17 vees? /Neil C. > -----Original Message----- > From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar] > Sent: den 10 oktober 2001 16:18 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados > > > Thanks for the kind words Neil! > > > Incidentally, I always do u/c vee's in one piece, for strength, > > it takes an evening to sand them out, boring but worth it. > > I'll try this on the N28, if the original vees doesn't fit > the modified > firewall I pasted on the fuselage. > D. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:37:56 EDT From: JVT7532@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Vimy? Message-ID: <12e.5d2e715.28f5b744@aol.com> Has anyone seen the Eastern Expess Vimy Bomber yet? I saw it listed on Squadron's site and was just wondering what's in the box and how it look's. I also saw the Roden Gotha G.lV listed for $12.99. The Vimy was $11.46, seems to be very fair prices. Best regards, Jon Jon V. 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Message-ID: Isn't the EE Vimy, just the old Frog, in which case I'd say that the Roden Gotha is a snip at any price compared to it. /Neil C. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 11:48:23 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados Message-ID: <02bc01c1519a$e86178c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Neil! > Notice I said "finishing things" not finishing, > we've seen you're good at that on your Albatross > and Nieuport on the gallery. Thanks! :-) Speaking of wich, I've put some more fiddling lately on the D.II, wich I hope to look better than the D.V > I don't think the original vees (form the N28) will fit -snip- IIRC they are pretty awful. Ohhh! Yes they're awful, but have a lot of "meat" to carve. However, if the angle isn't right, I'll discard the parts. > I thought you were going to use Ni17 vees? No, they're quite different, but I took them out of the d瘼ot to see how Matt had done them (however I was unable to discover it). The N28 vees are more streamlined and the angle is smaller. More on that later! D. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:24:16 +0200 From: "Grzegorz Mazurowski" To: Subject: Odp: RE: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: <01d101c1519c$8d0a6020$0200a8c0@x.pl> > - You see a new car with a great colour and instantly you think in the > humbrol/FS/Methuen match of the paint instead of thinking just "a dark green > car" or "a cherry red car". Even worse - I've noticed someday that iron 'railing' at my friend's staircase is painted in RLM 02 grau, exactly like my SCW Bf 109B - he looked at me as if I were elephant! G. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:02:02 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Ni28 was RE: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados Message-ID: Again IIRC, the angle was totally wrong, you're more or less forced to make new ones. And I thought of another reason for carving vees from a single piece. You save time aligning the u/c if you've carved them, the angles are correct. Length is easy to get wrong, usually because I forget trigometry and measure from the side profile only. Just leave plenty of margin for length when sawing out. /Neil C. D: > Ohhh! Yes they're awful, but have a lot of "meat" to carve. > However, if the > angle isn't right, I'll discard the parts. > > > I thought you were going to use Ni17 vees? > > No, they're quite different, but I took them out of the d瘼ot > to see how > Matt had done them (however I was unable to discover it). Didn't Matt do some fantastic trickery with resin casting? The > N28 vees are > more streamlined and the angle is smaller. > More on that later! > D. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:02:45 -0500 From: "Ken Acosta" To: Subject: Quick HELP Please!! Message-ID: This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_D58F2721.C3A2E426 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline Esteemed, patient, and unwaveringly helpful Listees- I've arrived at the rigging stage for my Eduard Ni.17 (first OT project) = and have been planning all along to rig with monofilament. Unfortunately, = I waited until now to start painting (or otherwise coloring) the material. = Referring to my notebook of compiled techniques, I attempted 3 or 4 = different methods last night, none of which was very successful. In each = case, the paint or ink tended to "bead-up" to varying degrees along the = line. Does anyone have a reliable technique for coloring monofilament = line in a manner that won't increase the thickness of the line too much = and adheres evenly enough to avoid beading? There's a moderate sense of urgency here because my deadline is the local = contest next Saturday (20 Oct). I'm in digest mode, so direct responses = would be greatly appreciated. In anticipation of a veritable flood of = assistance for which this List is known, I thank you very very very much = in advance. :-)))) KA --=_D58F2721.C3A2E426 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="TEXT.htm"
Esteemed, patient, and unwaveringly helpful Listees-
I've arrived at the rigging stage for my Eduard Ni.17 (first OT project) and have been planning all along to rig with monofilament.  Unfortunately, I waited until now to start painting (or otherwise coloring) the material.  Referring to my notebook of compiled techniques, I attempted 3 or 4 different methods last night, none of which was very successful.  In each case, the paint or ink tended to "bead-up" to varying degrees along the line.  Does anyone have a reliable technique for coloring monofilament line in a manner that won't increase the thickness of the line too much and adheres evenly enough to avoid beading?
 
There's a moderate sense of urgency here because my deadline is the local contest next Saturday (20 Oct).  I'm in digest mode, so direct responses would be greatly appreciated.  In anticipation of a veritable flood of assistance for which this List is known, I thank you very very very much in advance. :-))))
KA
--=_D58F2721.C3A2E426-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 11:17:15 EDT From: VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Quick HELP Please!! Message-ID: <85.11376eed.28f5c07b@aol.com> Hi Ken, try Magic markers or those small paint pens they sell that come in gold, silver, black, white, etc, nice fine point on them to boot. These have all worked for me. Go to a good office supply or stationary store they should have what you need. Best regards, Jon ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:31:43 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Ni28 was RE: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados Message-ID: <02f601c151a0$aa9cbb20$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Neil! > Again IIRC, the angle was totally wrong, you're > more or less forced to make new ones. Fine! this will save me a futile try to fit the existing parts. As you may remember, I'm inherently lazy. > And I thought of another reason for carving vees from > a single piece. You save time aligning the u/c if you've > carved them, the angles are correct. I've been thinking about that as I was writing a review of a Blood Centre inauguration just a minute ago (how far can my mind wander while I'm working!). I'll glue two pieces of sheet styrene togheter, trace the outline os one side, drill axle hole, cut both pieces togheter, snap them apart, and then sand to airfoil shape. Easier to say than to do, huh? :-) > Length is easy to > get wrong, usually because I forget trigometry and > measure from the side profile only. I tend to get confused and dazed with trigonometry. Sometimes I fainted while using my calculator. When I tried that method on my Albatros UC, I awoke three days later in a garbage bin and dressed as a gorilla. I'd rather project the lenghts on the GA drawings with a compass and auxiliary lines until I got the real measures on the paper. Quite accurate and riskless. > Just leave plenty > of margin for length when sawing out. A most sensible advice! Thanks! D. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:35:09 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: The Cost of R/C Message-ID: <006101c151a1$25106320$8daa72d4@FRITZweb> I can't go with you, Tom. I gave up R/C modelling due to cost ( and tome/space) reasons. The cost of the R/C transmitter equipment alone is as high as a year's budget of all new injection moulded WWI kits. Of course you can choose cheaper equipment, but be honest, would you stay on cheap kits if there are better alternatives? But my biggest cost factor was not R/C equipment. It was the flying. I had to drive with the car for over 60 km to reach a good place ( don't forget: Germany is not Texas. Free places are rare!). I calculated every flying hour with around 50 DM / 25$. Why? No, no crashes! Servos get crazy, batteries went down, the battery charger brokes down. I have had burning aircrafts, as the v-belt from the e-motor to the propeller ( e-motor glider with fold-down prop) blocked and the e-motor catched fire. I had burning wings as the cable from the receiver to the aileron servo lost the insulation on the wing/fuselage connection due vibration, causing a short circuit and melting down all the styrofoam in the wing, at last catching fire. And I only flew e-motorised gliders! No blocking engines, no troubles with mechanics. Nevermore, quoth the raven, nevermore! Hans ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:36:39 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: <007301c151a1$5ad9eb20$8daa72d4@FRITZweb> ... if you start any holiday trip with a research where the hobby shops are... Hans ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:33:19 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Ni28 was RE: RE: Attention Please Spad Afficionados Message-ID: I'll glue two pieces of sheet styrene togheter, > trace the outline > os one side, drill axle hole, cut both pieces togheter, snap > them apart, and > then sand to airfoil shape. Easier to say than to do, huh? :-) Good idea, and it is easy, just a little boring, do it while watching TV or something similar. > > > Length is easy to > > get wrong, usually because I forget trigometry and > > measure from the side profile only. > > I tend to get confused and dazed with trigonometry. At least you can spell it! Sometimes > I fainted > while using my calculator. When I tried that method on my > Albatros UC, I > awoke three days later in a garbage bin and dressed as a gorilla. ROTFL > I'd rather project the lenghts on the GA drawings with a compass and > auxiliary lines until I got the real measures on the paper. > Quite accurate > and riskless. Just do it by eye. /Neil C. > > > Just leave plenty > > of margin for length when sawing out. > > A most sensible advice! Thanks! > D. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:36:17 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: Yes of course, and any business trip by checking out the museum locations. /Neil C. > -----Original Message----- > From: Hans Trauner [mailto:hans.trauner@nefkom.net] > Sent: den 10 oktober 2001 17:33 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... > > > .. if you start any holiday trip with a research where the hobby shops > are... > > Hans > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 11:43:30 -0400 (EDT) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: The Cost of R/C Message-ID: <200110101543.LAA02174@mustang.sr.unh.edu> Well I fly R/C - it's fun, and if you want to do Scale WWI planes, it's not cheap, probably several times the cost of scale plastic models. But then again there's nothing like seeing that Fokker D-VIII you build to a 'strafing run' on the field. Now that micro RC equipment is really affordable ($100 to outfit a plane with receiver, servos and speed control) you can fly in the neighborhood park or ballfield easilly. So, yes it's expensive, but I feel it's worth it. Al http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/aew/rc > > I can't go with you, Tom. I gave up R/C modelling due to cost ( and > tome/space) reasons. The cost of the R/C transmitter equipment alone is as > high as a year's budget of all new injection moulded WWI kits. Of course you > can choose cheaper equipment, but be honest, would you stay on cheap kits if > there are better alternatives? > > But my biggest cost factor was not R/C equipment. It was the flying. I had > to drive with the car for over 60 km to reach a good place ( don't forget: > Germany is not Texas. Free places are rare!). I calculated every flying hour > with around 50 DM / 25$. Why? No, no crashes! Servos get crazy, batteries > went down, the battery charger brokes down. I have had burning aircrafts, as > the v-belt from the e-motor to the propeller ( e-motor glider with fold-down > prop) blocked and the e-motor catched fire. I had burning wings as the cable > from the receiver to the aileron servo lost the insulation on the > wing/fuselage connection due vibration, causing a short circuit and melting > down all the styrofoam in the wing, at last catching fire. > > And I only flew e-motorised gliders! No blocking engines, no troubles with > mechanics. > > Nevermore, quoth the raven, nevermore! > > Hans > > =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3788 **********************