WWI Digest 3786 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Airbrush by VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com 2) RE: Retarder by mflake@tarrantcounty.com (Flake, Marc) 3) Books for sale by "Shaun Howell" 4) Stork Spad Question by "Ken Acosta" 5) You Know You're a Modeler When... by "Graham Hunter" 6) Re: Stork Spad Question by "Lance Krieg" 7) RE: Airbrush by "Laskodi" 8) AEG IV 1/48 by "martin" 9) Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... by LEONARDPeterL@aol.com 10) RE: Airbrush by "Lee M." 11) RE: Airbrush by "Bob Pearson" 12) Re: OT Cookie Question... by Steve Cox 13) RE: Airbrush by "Lee M." 14) Re: OT Cookie Question... by Dennis Ugulano 15) Air Brushes by Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au 16) The Cost of R/C by "Tom Solinski" 17) Fokker V.23 and V.25 by "Charlie and Linda Duckworth" 18) Re: Paasche H - Cleaning by "Matt Bittner" 19) Re: Airbrush by "Matt Bittner" 20) Cool Omega accessories by "Matt Bittner" 21) Russian pilots in Osprey Nieuport & SPAD Aces books? by Rory Goodwin 22) Re: RAF3a DH4s in North Russia? by Rory Goodwin 23) Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... by Karen Rychlewski 24) Re: Cool Omega accessories by Karen Rychlewski 25) RE: The Cost of R/C by "Gaston Graf" 26) Flugzeug publications by Karen Rychlewski 27) Re: Paasche H - Cleaning by john@huggins-leahey.com (John Huggins) 28) Re: Fokker V.23 and V.25 by Todd Hayes 29) In case you wanted some by john@huggins-leahey.com (John Huggins) 30) Attention Please Spad Afficionados by Todd Hayes ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 16:37:26 EDT From: VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Airbrush Message-ID: <22.1cfdf875.28f4ba06@aol.com> In a message dated 10/9/2001 3:40:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rmilas7@hotmail.com writes: << 've heard pros and cons about the Aztec, so I wasn't sure if that was the way to go. However, some of you seem to speak very highly about it. >> Hi Rick, I can say this about my Aztec. I no longer even use my Badger 150 as cleanups are a whiz with the Aztec, it's guaranteed for life and you can change tips faster than a speeding bullet along with the colors your painting and the types of paint your using. This feature alone is worth using it, while not the best of the best it performs very well and is not expensive, more than adequate for my needs. Time is, well it's time and I don't have a lot of it to waste. Best regards, Jon ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 15:53:33 -0500 From: mflake@tarrantcounty.com (Flake, Marc) To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Retarder Message-ID: <150040EE45B4D511B0D000065B04EA09111413@ITCREX002> Michael asked: "Do you thin the acrylic for the airbrush first, prior to adding the Future? Or just "thin" the Ceramcoat with Future?" I "thin" the Ceramcoat with Future whether I'm air brushing or hand brushing. I do not get brush strokes with Future-thinned Ceramcoat when hand brushing. The airbrush does not clog with Future-thinnned Ceramcoat. When I next use some PolyScale maritime colors, I will experiment with using retarder according to the instructions on the retarded bottle. Those PolyScale "grays" clog my airbrush badly. Hopefully, the retarder will fix it. Marc Flake ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 16:12:18 +0000 From: "Shaun Howell" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Books for sale Message-ID: Having just finished up a VERY big trade, I have doubles of a lot of WWI books & magazines. I'll eventually post these on eBay, but thought I'd give you folks first shot. WINDSOCK INTERNATIONAL Vol.1 #4 WINDSOCK INTERNATIONAL Vol.2 #1-4 WINDSOCK DATAFILES #3-54 CROSS & COCKADE INTERNATIONAL Vol.22 #1-3 I'll sell ($8.00 each) or trade for 1/48 scale kits. Contact me off list. Thanks! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 16:18:41 -0500 From: "Ken Acosta" To: Subject: Stork Spad Question Message-ID: This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_2872DDD1.5031778B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline All- In some future life, I'd like to do the DML Spad 13 in Guynemer's scheme. = A quick scan of the links on the WWI site yeilded Peter's "Storks" page on = which I found a nice reference for just the right plane. (Nice page Peter, = BTW.) Can anyone confirm for me whether the A/G decal sheet #112 includes = these specific markings? TIA- KA --=_2872DDD1.5031778B Content-Type: text/plain Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="TEXT.htm"
All-
In some future life, I'd like to do the DML Spad 13 in Guynemer's scheme.  A quick scan of the links on the WWI site yeilded Peter's "Storks" page on which I found a nice reference for just the right plane. (Nice page Peter, BTW.)  Can anyone confirm for me whether the A/G decal sheet #112 includes these specific markings?
TIA-
KA
--=_2872DDD1.5031778B-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 16:23:49 -0500 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: <000501c15108$b0ea0700$fa0101c0@grahamh> When you're at work and you notice something shiny on your finger nail and it turns out to be decal carrier that you trimmed off of rib taps... Graham ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 16:35:29 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Stork Spad Question Message-ID: "Can anyone confirm for me whether the A/G decal sheet #112 includes these specific markings?" Well, the Escadrille 3 sheet has 12 Guynemer schemes thereon. Without being able to check at this moment, I would bet "Yes". Lance ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 14:47:04 -0700 From: "Laskodi" To: "WWI List Post" Subject: RE: Airbrush Message-ID: <000f01c1510b$f0524c60$2b3819d0@f4hn201> <<>> I have the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS ECL4500 with the .035 needle and tip, along with the pre-set handle assembly (that sets the maximum travel in the dual action airbrush), and crown tip for fine line spraying. It is an absolute marvel of engineering featuring finely machined tolerances and not a bit of plastic on it any where! About $150 worth of airbrush. I rarely use it. While capable of spraying very fine lines, it is such a "fussy" airbrush that requires meticulous thinning ratios and clogs very easily. I have yet to be able to spray a very fine line with acrylics (even with retarder!) since the highly thinned paint dries so quickly on the ultra fine tip and can actually spray a finer line with my Paasche H! Iwata's performance with enamels is much better than with acrylics. IMNSHO, don't waste your money on an Iwata, buy the Paasche H with the fine tip for about $35 over the internet. HTH --------Bob ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 06:51:31 -0300 From: "martin" To: "WWI Lista" Subject: AEG IV 1/48 Message-ID: <006101c150a8$038a2f00$b70de818@fibertel.com.ar> Dear Diego: This is the page for the AEG IV 1/48 in Squadron of Hi-Tech http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=HI0010 Martin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 17:52:15 EDT From: LEONARDPeterL@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: <22.1d03ea1f.28f4cb8f@aol.com> You pick up a scrap electrical component or discarded plumbing accessory and think " if I turn this upside down and drill a hole just here............" cheers Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 17:52:08 -0500 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Airbrush Message-ID: <3BC37F98.1887AE87@x25.net> You can always get on your browser, type in names, and, see who has what.. It won't take long to see who is serious about the business. I believe that Paasche has been in the Airbrush business since 1904. I do not know about the other companies. http://www.paascheairbrush.com/ It seems that Thayer and Chandler may have shown up a few years later. Thayer and Chandler is now owned by Badger and it has been since 1999. Their website takes forever to down load. At 3 to 6 minutes. http://www.badger-airbrush.com/ But one way to help make up your mind is to get on the Net. Contact the companies and request their catalog. See who makes what and then decide. Paasche 's full color catalog at 24 pages (counting the covers) is quite impressive. Lee M. New Braunfels, Tx ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 15:44:25 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Airbrush Message-ID: <3BC23CF90001DAD6@mail.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) Wal-Mart has an Iwata copy that they sell (sold) for $50 Cdn a few years ago. It works nicely with the only drawback I discovered being the lid to the colour cup didn't fit right. Having said that, I prefer my VL .. usually with the #3 setup, although for T-Shirts I have used the #5 needle and cap. Best advice is to PRACTICE .. I used to make myself draw dots and then connect them in all sorts of manner. Airbrush Action has many good ideas on this if you can get by their excessive self-advertising on every other page. Bob ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 00:19:42 +0100 From: Steve Cox To: Subject: Re: OT Cookie Question... Message-ID: from memory he was pilot taking off to fly to France with the first squadron to leave Regards Steve nb =========================================== steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk/steveshome.html If I didn't spend so much time on line ‹‹ I'd get some models finished ================ > From: "Ross Moorhouse" > Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org > Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 17:31:43 -0400 (EDT) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: OT Cookie Question... > > No bites at the question. Too hard maybe ??? > > Ross > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ross Moorhouse" > To: "Multiple recipients of list" > Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001 8:24 PM > Subject: [WWI] OT Cookie Question... > > > | For a cookie who knows the answer to this.... > | > | "Who was the first RFC casuality? What was his rank? What date was he > | wounded? What was he doing when he was wounded?" > | > | First correct answer gets the cookie. :) & knowing this group I bet I have > | the answer within 10 minutes of this hitting the list. > | > | > | > | > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 18:30:43 -0500 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Airbrush Message-ID: <3BC388A3.FFFF02CC@x25.net> Practice is some of the best advice anyone can give. It is not a waste of paint to take a very large piece of a cardboard box and see what you can do with the air brush. if you put up some black and white commics you may learn a lot about coloring in very small areas. You can sketch camouflage patterns near scale and do all sorts of trials and tests till you are more satisfied with the way your Air Brush handles things. It is far cheaper than plastic models and you learn all you need to know. Lee m. New Braunfels, Tx Bob Pearson wrote: > Wal-Mart has an Iwata copy that they sell (sold) for $50 Cdn a few years > ago. It works nicely with the only drawback I discovered being the lid to > the colour cup didn't fit right. > > Having said that, I prefer my VL .. usually with the #3 setup, although for > T-Shirts I have used the #5 needle and cap. > > Best advice is to PRACTICE .. I used to make myself draw dots and then > connect them in all sorts of manner. Airbrush Action has many good ideas on > this if you can get by their excessive self-advertising on every other page. > > Bob ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:30:27 -0400 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Re: OT Cookie Question... Message-ID: <200110092030_MC3-E2CC-62B0@compuserve.com> The pilot was Lt Skene No.3 Squadron flying a Bleriot two seater on 8/12/1914. The observer is not named. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://ronnieuggie.com/uggie/dju.htm Page Revised 10/06/01 "Each modeler will rise to their own level of masochism." ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:23:58 +1000 From: Neil.Eddy@dhs.vic.gov.au To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Air Brushes Message-ID: This email is to be read subject to the disclaimer below: Hi All; All this talk about air brushes has been quite timely as I've been lately considering replacing my fixed head beginners Badger with a new finer model. I was looking at a Aztek set with different size nozzles but all the talk about the Paasche H has convinced me that this might be the go. Also one of the bigger model shops here has them at a reasonable price plus the additional nozzles...So a final question - which is simpler to use the Aztek or the Paasche? All the Best Neil E. _________________________________________________________________________________ NOTICE: This communication is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient of this communication please delete and destroy all copies immediately. If you are the intended recipient of this communication, you should not copy, disclose or distribute this communication without the authority of the Department of Human Services. Any views expressed in this communication are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifically states them to be the views of the Department. Except as required by law, the Department does not represent, warrant and/or guarantee that the integrity of this communication has been maintained nor that the communication is free of errors, virus, interception or interference. If you have received this email in error or have other concerns regarding this transmission, please contact the Department of Human Services System Administrator at Postmaster@dhs.vic.gov.au _________________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 19:55:40 -0500 From: "Tom Solinski" To: Subject: The Cost of R/C Message-ID: <000901c15126$48d043a0$a6a20d41@Solinski.okcnc1.ok.home.com> Hi all, Gaston's expressed desire for an absolute scale Dr-I triggered some interesting comments. One of which appears to be common to the majority of the list. That is those of you who don't do R/C (Radio Control) models seem to think that it is extremely expensive. I'd like to break that myth, and hopefully get some more of you to enjoy another aspect of OT modeling. For the last five years I have taught basic R/C flying on almost every Thursday evening during daylight savings time here in the States (April to October). In that time I believe I've had at least a dozen successful students who are now enjoying the hobby. To get to the point, I now tell all prospective flyers that they can expect to spend no more than $600.00 USD. This works out to: $85.00 for a trainer kit $40.00 for the plastic covering film ( Monokote or Ultracoat) $70.00 for a good .40 sized two stroke engine $170.00 for a bottom of the line dependable four channel radio and the balance of the 600 will go to tools, glue, flight line equipment etc. These prices have gone DOWN greatly relative to when I started R/C in the early 70's, but the reliability, and durability have improved greatly. In addition if properly selected the engine, radio and all of the tools and supplies can be used on your next three of four models. AND like the full scale counter part, one doesn't learn to fly in a P-51, B-17, Alb D-III, Sopwith Camel or Dr-I right off the bat. One starts off with a trainer. At this time there are over a dozen excellent basic trainers both in complete kit form and in ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) form available. Many of you lament how can you risk all that hard work in the air? I would guess that less than 1% of all the flying scale modelers out there ever even attempt a "master precision model" worthy of a museum, and expending thousands of hours of detailing. Most scale models out there are "sport scale" equivalent to our plastic slammers. They look good at a distance but, since you can't see the detail when it's flying why put it on there in the first place? As your flying skills improve so too your level of detailing. My club had a fun fly this last Sunday. On a gusty Oklahoma day there were 35 modelers present many with 2 or 3 models. Out of the 120+ flights made that day there wasn't a single "fatal" crash. Only the club perennial student Bob Degrafenried (De crash enreed) ( his own joke) poked his trainer in a tree. A couple of holes in the plastic covering, which were fixed with packing tape and he was flying again. My Dad a died in the wool flying modeler turns red when I build plastic, asking why I "waste time" on something that can only collect dust (and trophies) when it's done, when the same time can be built spent flying. Relative to the total investment in our air brushes, paints and kit stashes R/C is not all that more expensive. If you'd like to try, I'll be glad to point you down a successful road My 6 cents Tom Solinski ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:04:20 -0500 From: "Charlie and Linda Duckworth" To: "wwi-faq" Subject: Fokker V.23 and V.25 Message-ID: <000301c15127$f4356940$1232b9cc@unionrai> Hi List, The Fokker V.23 and V.25 are listed as "in preparation" by Omega Models in 1:48. I can't find any info on these a/c in my sources. Does anyone here know about these a/c? TIA Todd Both are prototypes - V.23 was a knock off of the DVII as a mid wing monoplane. V.25 was a 110hp Oberursal powered monoplane. Both enthered into the 2nd Fighter Trials June 1918. Wonder why 'Omega doesn't do production a/c so they'd get some sales? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 17:15:39 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Re: Paasche H - Cleaning Message-ID: <200110100109.f9A19LH25946@robin.mail.pas.earthlink.net> On Tue, 9 Oct 2001 15:46:19 -0400 (EDT), Mark Shannon wrote: > Alternating this kind of bath with a soak in paint thinner will clean up anything in the brush. The main thing is patience - assume that it will take a week or more of soaking overnight, working a bit at it with an old toothbrush and pipecleaners, and back to soaking again. Another option is to use Murphy's Oil Soap. However, do *not* use Murphy's on *any* of the rubber or plastic parts. It will ruin those. Since the majority of my T&C a/bs are stainless steel, I only have to remove the two rubber gaskets. Soak the parts in Murhpy's for maybe a day, and then clean it off using water, but be sure to clean it off well. Murphy's tends to really stick to the parts. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 17:16:58 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Re: Airbrush Message-ID: <200110100109.f9A19PH26526@robin.mail.pas.earthlink.net> Well, if we're going to talk about them, might as well give my two cents. :-) I have only used - and currently own three - Thayer & Chandler. I consider these airbrushes a little more "high end" than the Binks and Paasche (nothing against those, just how I consider the T&C). I have a very old ('60-ish) single action that hasn't been used in years, and *two* Vega 2000 double actions that I now use exclusively. I have not had any problems with these, when they're maintained properly. I have also heard excellent reports about the Iawata line of a/b's - again, a little "higher end" then your typical "hobby" a/b. One thing to keep in mind - at least for me. I spray *only* acrylics, and normally thin either only with windshield washer fluid, or a combination of that *and* Future. Once I'm done spraying the colors, I then spray straight, undiluted windshield washer fluid through the a/b until it comes out relatively clear (or "blue" in the case of the fluid I use ;-). Once that is done, then I also wash the rest of the a/b out in the sink using nothing but water, and normally taking the needle out to super clean it. Only once in awhile do I have to tear the whole a/b apart to clean it, and that's usually after spraying something like one of the Polly Scale metallics through it. HTH, YMMV, and FWIW... Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 17:28:23 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Cool Omega accessories Message-ID: <200110100109.f9A19SH27006@robin.mail.pas.earthlink.net> Just received in the mail some really cool on topic resin accessories from Omega (thanks, Todd!!). Set #72524 "Russian Bombs WW1". The box top states "4 x 4 puds", "4 x 30 funts" and "1 x camera". To be honest, mine came with *two* cameras. Cool! The molding is everything we come to expect from Omega. To be honest I was a little hesitant to order them, because some off topic rockets I picked up awhile ago are POS, but I was very impressed with these. Extremely well molded (some of the little "handles" on the cameras aren't molded well, but that's about the worst of it) with only a little flash (pah!). Highly recommended! Plus I think they were only around US$2, so well worth the money. I plan on using one of the camera's in the SPAD SA.2 when I get back to it. Now to try and find the motivation to get back to modeling...... Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 21:08:06 -0700 From: Rory Goodwin To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Russian pilots in Osprey Nieuport & SPAD Aces books? Message-ID: <3BC3C9A6.A629BAEC@earthlink.net> How is the coverage of the Eastern Front/Russian Civil War in these? Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 21:16:59 -0700 From: Rory Goodwin To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: RAF3a DH4s in North Russia? Message-ID: <3BC3CBBB.EB75024B@earthlink.net> Thanks to Lance and anyone else who took time to look things up. Sincerely, Rory Lance Krieg wrote: > Riordan now says: > > "... so don't bother with it." > > Not so fast! I spent 40 minutes poring over the DH4/9/9a File, so you're going to get the fruit of that labor, like it or not. > > First off, a mixture of engines went into even the smallest batches, so there is no pattern to that. > Besides the RAF3a, common engines were Eagles V, VI, VIII, 260 HP Fiats, and 200 HP BHPs, among others. > > I found RAF-powered machines built by most subcontractors, including Berwick, Westland and Airco. > > The Datafile pictues one Russia-bound machine, Airco -built A7919 on page 40. > > Cross-referencing back to the DH4 File from Sturdevant, it also shows that A7918 went to Russia. > But none of the others from the immediate vicinity of those two out of a huge batch of Airco-built machines. > > I scoured the list until my eyes crossed, but found none of the other six. > > Note that eight planes went, but only three Lewis guns; special weaponry of an undisclosed nature was expected in Murmansk. > > Lance ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 00:43:47 -0400 From: Karen Rychlewski To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: You Know You're a Modeler When... Message-ID: <3BC3D202.CC22D2E@earthlink.net> ...you tell an acquaintance that you stopped at a model shop and he asks if they had nice clothes. Maybe you have to be of the female persuasion to understand this... Dame Karen ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 00:46:46 -0400 From: Karen Rychlewski To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Cool Omega accessories Message-ID: <3BC3D2B5.5DCA01DD@earthlink.net> Matt Bittner wrote: > Just received in the mail some really cool on topic resin accessories > from Omega (thanks, Todd!!). Set #72524 "Russian Bombs WW1". The box > top states "4 x 4 puds", "4 x 30 funts" and "1 x camera". To be > honest, mine came with *two* cameras. To be candid, I think the extra camera was an Allan--watch your back, Matt ;-) Dame Karen ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 06:54:44 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: The Cost of R/C Message-ID: Tom and all, thanks a lot for all the comments and kind advices regarding my idea of building a true scale Dr.1.. I'll take to occasion of Toms mail to say that I plan indeed to learn to fly with a simple model and work my way through to more complex models until I will (hopefully) reach the required level fly such a tricky to handle thing like a Dr.1. Until now, this is only an idea and I will see how things will develope to make it come true or not. I agree to Tom regarding the prices. It is basically the same what the storekeeper told me who sells me most of my modelling stuff. He said that one needs about 500$ to invest into a radio and a trainer model and that's the most important sum of money to invest because the radio equippment and the servos can be used for any other model later and one will not have to buy it all again for a different model. Also he said that one gets much more for the money than one did years before. It *may* off course become much more expensive, depending on what models one intends to build. I saw a scale model of an F4U Corsair at this store that costs already close to 500 bucks and there are other even more expensive kits. But to have just fun one does not need to buy such expensive things. The comments of Toms dad is what I've heard so many times by other RC nuts. They call our static models dust catchers and to them a model is only a model when it is big, flys or otherwise moves. Well, to me the non-scale models are rather toys, even if "toy" is not really the correct expression, but a model is only a model if it comes as close to the original as possible. So everybody has his point of view regarding this. I love accuracy and details. Maybe in the future it will be possible to build a radio controlled PILOT figure that controls the model rather than having the servos control it... That is another idea and sounds crazy but when I read about the latest developement in robots this does not sound impossible anymore. happy landings Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > > Hi all, > > Gaston's expressed desire for an absolute scale Dr-I triggered some > interesting comments. One of which appears to be common to the > majority of > the list. That is those of you who don't do R/C (Radio Control) > models seem > to think that it is extremely expensive. > > I'd like to break that myth, and hopefully get some more of you to enjoy > another aspect of OT modeling. > > For the last five years I have taught basic R/C flying on almost every > Thursday evening during daylight savings time here in the States (April to > October). In that time I believe I've had at least a dozen successful > students who are now enjoying the hobby. > > To get to the point, I now tell all prospective flyers that they > can expect > to spend no more than $600.00 USD. > This works out to: > $85.00 for a trainer kit > $40.00 for the plastic covering film ( Monokote or Ultracoat) > $70.00 for a good .40 sized two stroke engine > $170.00 for a bottom of the line dependable four channel radio > and the balance of the 600 will go to tools, glue, flight line equipment > etc. > > These prices have gone DOWN greatly relative to when I started R/C in the > early 70's, but the reliability, and durability have improved greatly. > > In addition if properly selected the engine, radio and all of the > tools and > supplies can be used on your next three of four models. > > AND like the full scale counter part, one doesn't learn to fly in a P-51, > B-17, Alb D-III, Sopwith Camel or Dr-I right off the bat. One starts off > with a trainer. At this time there are over a dozen excellent basic > trainers both in complete kit form and in ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) form > available. > > Many of you lament how can you risk all that hard work in the > air? I would > guess that less than 1% of all the flying scale modelers out > there ever even > attempt a "master precision model" worthy of a museum, and expending > thousands of hours of detailing. Most scale models out there are "sport > scale" equivalent to our plastic slammers. They look good at a distance > but, since you can't see the detail when it's flying why put it > on there in > the first place? As your flying skills improve so too your level of > detailing. My club had a fun fly this last Sunday. On a gusty > Oklahoma day > there were 35 modelers present many with 2 or 3 models. Out of the 120+ > flights made that day there wasn't a single "fatal" crash. Only the club > perennial student Bob Degrafenried (De crash enreed) ( his own joke) poked > his trainer in a tree. A couple of holes in the plastic covering, which > were fixed with packing tape and he was flying again. > > My Dad a died in the wool flying modeler turns red when I build plastic, > asking why I "waste time" on something that can only collect dust (and > trophies) when it's done, when the same time can be built spent flying. > > Relative to the total investment in our air brushes, paints and > kit stashes > R/C is not all that more expensive. If you'd like to try, I'll be glad to > point you down a successful road > > My 6 cents > Tom Solinski > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 01:03:26 -0400 From: Karen Rychlewski To: to post Subject: Flugzeug publications Message-ID: <3BC3D69E.1DBA1823@earthlink.net> Some time back, someone was asking about a source for Flugzeug publications, specifically the Albatros D.II Profile and the Cockpits #1. Try http://www.modelers-paradise.com/kitsandmore/flugzeug/flugzeug.htm Dame Karen ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 00:10:56 -0600 From: john@huggins-leahey.com (John Huggins) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Paasche H - Cleaning Message-ID: >From: "Mark Shannon" >> ÝWhat I do know is that if you can find access to an ultrasonic >>bath cleaner, just giving a few treatments using soapy water or > >A good cheap source for ultrasonic cleaners are the so called >Jewellry cleaners. They are battery powered and work by agitation. A >covered container with laquer thinner, put in one of these for 5 mins >typically cleans any crud out. You can find them in department stores >during Christmas. I used to use a ultrasonic cleaner several years ago. It worked very well. About 30 to 45 seconds is all it too to completely clean the brush after a painting session. I stopped using it one day when I took the color cup for my VL out of the cleaner and while washing it out and drying it, the little pipe that connects to the airbrush acme out of the cup. It appears that the ultrasonic vibrations had worked the solder that holds the pipe into the cup came loose. Great tool, great results, but I would not use it as a full time cleaner. John ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 22:48:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Fokker V.23 and V.25 Message-ID: <20011010054819.12910.qmail@web11107.mail.yahoo.com> Hi Charlie, Except for these two, the five kits Omega is doing in 1:48 were production a/c and saw service. Over 50 of the Moska MB bis's were produced. Some were used in WW1 and the Russian Civil War. The Anatra Anada served didn't it? And the other kit they're doing is the Sikorskii S.16. I'm hoping for some Farmans, myself, and a Voisan type 3. I have their e-mail address if you'd like to put in a request. I did. Mr. Pala actually answered back very quickly. Beware though, his English is very limited. Todd --- Charlie and Linda Duckworth wrote: > Hi List, > > The Fokker V.23 and V.25 are listed as "in > preparation" by Omega Models in 1:48. I can't find > any info on these a/c in my sources. Does anyone > here > know about these a/c? TIA Todd > > Both are prototypes - V.23 was a knock off of the > DVII as a mid wing > monoplane. V.25 was a 110hp Oberursal powered > monoplane. Both enthered > into the 2nd Fighter Trials June 1918. > > Wonder why 'Omega doesn't do production a/c so > they'd get some sales? > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 01:02:54 -0600 From: john@huggins-leahey.com (John Huggins) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: In case you wanted some Message-ID: I was looking at Squadron "Just Arrived" page and found the following Airfix kits. AX00074 1/72 Fokker Dr.I $4.48 Sale price $3.96 AX00075 1/72 Sopwith Camel $4.48 Sale price $3.96 AX00078 1/72 Albatros D.Va $4.48 Sale price $3.96 AX00080 1/72 Bristol F2B $4.48 Sale price $3.96 AX00081 1/72 SPAD VII $4.48 Sale price $3.96 AX00082 1/72 Sopwith Pup $4.48 Sale price $3.96 AX06007 1/72 Handley-Page 0/400 $21.98 Sale price $18.96 JP ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 23:09:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Attention Please Spad Afficionados Message-ID: <20011010060926.73157.qmail@web11108.mail.yahoo.com> To the above, Just what are the problems with the Airfix Spad VII (besides outdated techonolgy)? Todd __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3786 **********************