WWI Digest 3762 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Finished one by CoolSpadLuke@aol.com 2) Re: DH2 - Pegasus and The Knight's Tale by "Michael Kendix" 3) ID: Lancelot Duke by "David Vosburgh" 4) Osprey WWI American Aces by "Tom Sollers" 5) Re: Quick take on Hobbycraft SPAD by "Tom Sollers" 6) Re: OTF seminar by "David Layton" 7) by 1234@567 8) Some Qs about Balsa wood.... by "Gaston Graf" 9) Back by "Matt Bittner" 10) OT Flying models: by Robert Horton 11) Re: Osprey WWI American Aces by "Lyle Lamboley" 12) Osprey Publishing British and Empire Aces of World War 1 by "Lyle Lamboley" 13) Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... by Ray Boorman 14) Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... by "Lee M." 15) Re: Finished one by Steve Cox 16) Re: DH2 - Pegasus and The Knight's Tale by "David C. Fletcher" 17) Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... by "David C. Fletcher" 18) Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... by Nigel Cheffers-Heard 19) Re: OTF seminar by "Bob Pearson" 20) Re: Finished one by LEONARDPeterL@aol.com 21) Update on my planes by "Marcio Antonio Campos" 22) Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... by "R N Pearson" 23) Re: He shoots, he SCORES II by "Tom Sollers" 24) RE: Osprey WWI American Aces by Shane Weier 25) RE: Back by Shane Weier 26) Re: Finished one by Steve Cox ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 09:23:57 EDT From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com To: Subject: Re: Finished one Message-ID: <31.1b67fe70.28e876ed@aol.com> Will we get to see it on your site? Mike Kavanaugh In a message dated Sun, 30 Sep 2001 7:43:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Steve Cox writes: > At last the MoS L is done > > > Steve > > nb > =========================================== > steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk > http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk/steveshome.html > If I didn't spend so much time on line > ‹‹ I'd get some models finished > ================ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 14:28:04 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: DH2 - Pegasus and The Knight's Tale Message-ID: Merrill: Thanks. It is good that someone has confirmed that since I had about 7 old kits pulled out of the closet, desperately searching for a prop. replacement. DH2 is next then. I'm also morally obligated to build the Tamiya P-51 for one of my club's Build the Same Kit Contest: at least it has minmal rigging wires and I get my money back if I bring it to the meeting. Does anyone find it useful to build 2 or 3 kits at once? I don't mean putting the other unfinshed stuff in a drawer for months (I have some of those too) but while one kit's drying or something, you can mess with another one and not screw up the first one by attacking it too soon. Many thanks again, Merrill. Michael >From: MAnde72343@aol.com >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: [WWI] Re: DH2 - Pegasus and The Knight's Tale >Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 01:42:59 -0400 (EDT) > >The prop from the airfix DH-4 is the right size and shape, per the >Datafile, >IIRC. HTH >Merrill _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 10:45:26 -0400 From: "David Vosburgh" To: "WWI Mailing List" Subject: ID: Lancelot Duke Message-ID: <000f01c14a87$b7762c20$dfed19ce@default> My Dad came back from his usual coffee run this morning and told me that a young Canadian friend and he got talking about WWI aviation, and that this guy told him that family tradition holds that his late great-uncle was "one of the commanders of Roy Brown's squadron". This gent's name was Lancelot Duke, and supposedly an aunt has some photos he took of 425/17 sitting in the compost heap. Can anyone confirm that he was a member of Brown's squadron (or any squadron in the RFC/RAF)? DV ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 12:11:05 -0400 From: "Tom Sollers" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Osprey WWI American Aces Message-ID: <200109301612.f8UGC9H02547@mail.bcpl.net> Just noticed in the new Squadron update that along with the release of the DR.I and Spad Aces from Osprey is an additional release entitled "WWI American Aces". Has anyone had a look at this yet? Tom ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 12:10:53 -0400 From: "Tom Sollers" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Quick take on Hobbycraft SPAD Message-ID: <200109301612.f8UGC7H02540@mail.bcpl.net> David: Thanks for the quick take. I think I'll wait to see some scans before I buy one. How does it scale out against Winsock plans? How is the rendition of the fuselage sides? It seems that was one of the shortcomings of the DML kit. Tom ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 12:18:27 -0500 From: "David Layton" To: Subject: Re: OTF seminar Message-ID: <002f01c149d3$eb825980$9169d918@DavidLayton> Per a conversation I had with a board member, the problem is that it takes a year's planning and preparation to put one of these on. I wonder if we could extend the 2003 Dayton an additional day to get in some of the research that would have been presented in San Diego? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Pearson" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2001 8:09 PM Subject: [WWI] OTF seminar > Hi All, > > I have just heard from one of the board members of OTF that the cancelled > seminar will not be rescheduled. Rather the next one will be 2003 in Dayton. > > Bob ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 14:01:59 -0400 (EDT) From: 1234@567 To: HK, SPLITER4, SPLITER1, SPLITER2, SPLITER3, HK99-03, HK99-04, HK99-07, Message-ID: <200109301801.OAA28611@mustang.sr.unh.edu> YIU KEE AIR-CONDION & ELETRICAL Government Permitted Repair Company Applying WR2 & Air refreshment license for you TEL: 26633167-21370048-25688167 Professional engineer sincerely to solve any air-conditions, refrigerate related and also water pie, electrical problem. One year guarantee for all repaired machines. Many cheap and good second-handed Air-Conditioner and refrigerator for sale. Water pie Electrical Aluminum window Maintenance Sewer congestion Cement Painting Engineering PRICE FOR WINDOW AIR-CONDITION: MODEL CHECK AND CLEAN REFRESHMENT ADDING OIL Ä£°O§N®ð¤ô¹q¤uµ{ YIU KEE AIR-CONDITION & ELECTRICAL TEL¡G 25688167 -21370048-26633167 ¡£¬F©²¦X®æ¹q¾¹©Ó³y°Ó¡¤ ¥N«È¥Ó½ÐWR2¤Î³q­·µP ¥»¤½¥q©Ó±µ´ä¤E ·s¬É¤j¤p«Î§ø¼g¦r¼Ó°Ó¾Q¦í¦v¤§¸Ë­×½·s¤Î¤ô¹q§N®ð¤uµ{[»ù·Gª«¬ü]§K¶O¤Wªù³ø»ù. Åwªï­P¹q°Ý¸ß ¤ô³ï¹q¿O-´ë´Z¼ä¨ã ¤ô¬¦Àô«O-¨¾¤ô¨¾º| ªoº£§å¦Ç-ªd¤ô§åÀú ¶¡©Ð³yÂd-¤Ñªá¦aªO òÁOªá¬[-¾T½è¿N²k «O¾i¤uµ{-²M©î¤uµ{ ¥»¤½¥q©¾¸Û«È¤á¸Ñ¨M1¤Ç¤§300¤Ç§N®ð¾÷,­á¦×Âd¤Î³·Âd¤Î¨ä¥¦¤ô³ï¹q¿Oµ¥¤@¤Á°ÝÃD,¤Z¸gºû­×,«O¥Î¤@¦~.±M·~§Þ®vÀˬd,¶R½æ¤G¤â§N®ð¾÷,Âd¾÷¤Î¤ÀÅé¾÷,»ù®æ¯S¥­ ¦p»Ý¨ú®ø½Ð¹q73992966Á¿§CFAX NO THANK YOU gughhhgj@gfgyj ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:12:36 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... Message-ID: Friends, my daughter got me back into modeling again. Our Nieup11 isn't finished yet but like she is highly interested into RC models I gathered some information about how to get started. I was a bit astonished to hear that one needs to invest about 500 (!) bucks for the first RC installation (electric) plus a model. Off course one may have the same for half of the price but in that case one gets a simple kit that includes everything, model and RC set but the RC set is adapted to that model only and cannot be used for a different model later. To get my big girl started with building such models (I did not buy the RC stuff yet) I got her a Guillow Balsa model (http://www.guillow.com) of an "ot" P51D - a nice kit. Well, it's "ot" so I don't want to discuss the model itself but I have some questions about building with Balsa wood because I am totally new to this stuff. Guillows also offers some nice OT kits though. 1) What is the best glue to use for Balsa? I forgot to ask the storekeeper about it and now tried wood glue as well as a multipurpose glue for wood, styrene, paper etc.. I think that I stick with the wood glue because it is an easier to use liquid than the other glue. Is there any special glue that I should use? 2) Do you give the Balsa frame of the model a coat of varnish before covering it? 3) Do you apply a coat of a primer to the covered model? 4) Applying a primer coat sounds logical to me to stiffen the paper that is used for covering. Do you sand it afterwards before the paint will be applied? 5) Do you have any special tips about Balsa modeling for a beginner? We will finish that kit as a rubber powered flyer. I think it will be big fun for my daughter to let it fly. After that, we may build a real RC model, or maybe some more Guillow models for training. It is nice to see how interested my child is in daddy's hobby now. I am interested into RC modeling as well because I wanted to build a big scale accurate model of a Fokker Dr.1 before I will take on my project of a 1:1 replica. It's a long way to go but will sure give us much fun. btw: I received a message forwarded to me that the Fokker-Team Schorndorf is looking for donations to return an original URII to Germany again. I will ask Achim Engels about it because I believe it is the same engine that was recently offered to me. Unfortunatly I cannot buy it at the moment and the man who made me the offer dit come up with a price after I told him that I cannot buy it at the moment. Bah - and if the real dream of a 1:1 Dr.1 will fail I still can build a wonderful 1:4 model powered by one of these fantastic real functioning model rotaries ;o). Hope you had/have a nice weekend! Gaston http://www.jastaboelcke.de ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 13:25:49 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Back Message-ID: <200109301824.LAA25014@swan.mail.pas.earthlink.net> Well, back in Omaha. Yesterday was very difficult since we had a memorial mass for my dad, and having to leave all the wonderful friends and family that provided support. I see the list is back into the swing of things, especially since everyone's talking about Nieuports. Well, everyone but Shane. ;-) FWIW, Rosemont will hopefully release separate LePrieur rockets in the forseeable future. How do I know? Why, they're ones I masterd, of course. ;-) I personally don't like the Toko/EE ones, but maybe that's just me... ;-) Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 13:55:18 -0500 From: Robert Horton To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: OT Flying models: Message-ID: <3BB76A96.FBC86D40@netexpress.net> Back again bunch: I guess this one is more aimed at Gaston and his questions about flying models but I thought that there are others with more recent experience that could and would chime in...first off Gaston, if you really want to be able to fly this critter I would not attempt a P-51. I never did have any much luck trying to fly one of these wwII type things rubber powered. Just seems to be not enough power and lift and too much weight. Get something of Guillows that is a two-winger and try. I would go back to shop and get a Testors glue that is made for balsa...I think it is the greenish bordered tube and I imagine there are other companies that make specific glue for flying models. I would not do any painting or preping of balsa before applying the paper coat...I would go with specific paper tissue that is made for flyers, such as silk span or the like. ( a heavy duty tissue that will tighten with a water spray.) Use a clear dope brushed on the balsa frame to stick the paper...it dries fast and you may have to go back and add another few brush strokes to get the surface sticky again [ No priming should be necessary just start with a colored dope coat and it doesn't have to be hot fuel proof type dope as long as this isn't a gas engine powered model that would have fuel spilled on it. When you get everything done, make a few test glides into something VERY-VERY soft and then begin to wind in some cranks on the rubber band and try that. Tell her good luck and don't be discouraged on a few crashes...best to all...Bob Horton ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 14:56:07 -0400 From: "Lyle Lamboley" To: Subject: Re: Osprey WWI American Aces Message-ID: <001d01c149e1$92d9c8a0$9af9aec7@lylelamb> Tom, I checked out the Osprey site, here's the address for this one: http://www.ospreypublishing.com/titles/1841763756 Lyle ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Sollers" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 12:13 PM Subject: [WWI] Osprey WWI American Aces > Just noticed in the new Squadron update that along with the release of the > DR.I and Spad Aces from Osprey is an additional release entitled "WWI > American Aces". Has anyone had a look at this yet? > > Tom ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 14:58:30 -0400 From: "Lyle Lamboley" To: Subject: Osprey Publishing British and Empire Aces of World War 1 Message-ID: <002001c149e1$ea8d90e0$9af9aec7@lylelamb> Also check out this next one: http://www.ospreypublishing.com/titles/1841763772 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 12:14:55 -0700 From: Ray Boorman To: Subject: Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... Message-ID: <20010930192019.AON13380.priv-edtnes09-hme0.telusplanet.net@ray> On Sun, 30 Sep 2001 14:14:18 -0400 (EDT), Gaston Graf wrote: >invest about 500 (!) bucks for the first RC installation (electric) Wait until you buy a programmable PCM transmitter then the cost can really go up. > >1) What is the best glue to use for Balsa? I forgot to ask the >storekeeper Thick CA works great and can be used on just about everything. One thing to do. If you are gluing on the end of the grain. as in a butt joint the wood will soak the glue up. So put a thin sealing bead of glue on and zap it as it soaks in. This seals the grain then apply the glue as normal. Use all Glues sparingly they add weight and not really any extra strength to a well engineered joint. As to the Guillows models they are not good models for first time RC use. They are great models to convert once you have experience to electric RC or to hang from the ceiling. But not for beginners. Especially low winged mustprangs. Manufacturers of some nice beginners flying models are Midwest, Sig and Greatplanes. If I was you I would find a model of an Electric powered Cub. It flies great glides forever and is very forgiving. If you buy a second wing and build it clipped. It is very a very capable aerobat, of course it will not look completely like a real Cub, but I have found the closer a model is in accuracy to its real equivalent the harder in my experience it is to fly. I know thats probably not what you wanted to hear but there is nothing worse than people who turn up with really nicely built aircraft that are totally beyond a beginners flying abilities. They quite often leave 10 mins after they arrived with many more pieces and a whole lot of frustration never to return to what can be a very rewarding hobby. To keep this OT, I once saw a person turn up at the field in St Louis where I lived at the time, with a 1/4 scale DR1. Red of course, the guy had spent 2 years building it. He checked everything at the field at least twice. Taxied it around then let his buddy who could fly take off. Then he proceeded to climb out and bank before trying to trim it out, the engine cut out and the plane dove in from about 100 foot. Lots of red covered spare parts. Two years down the drain on first flight. You should have heard the conversation between the two. Not to many words that had more than four letters in them. Ray ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 14:57:36 -0500 From: "Lee M." To: wwi@wwi-models.org, Gaston Graf Subject: Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... Message-ID: <3BB77930.6793A95E@x25.net> Almost forgot. For the test flying find a field of very tall grasses. Like wheat, oats or some such thing. It can land very far above the ground. It will last much longer that way. Lee M ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:56:27 +0100 From: Steve Cox To: Subject: Re: Finished one Message-ID: When I take a picture that makes it look better than it is Steve nb Pfalz A.I to match =========================================== steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk/steveshome.html If I didn't spend so much time on line ‹‹ I'd get some models finished ================ > From: CoolSpadLuke@aol.com > Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org > Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 09:26:01 -0400 (EDT) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: [WWI] Re: Finished one > > Will we get to see it on your site? > > Mike Kavanaugh > > In a message dated Sun, 30 Sep 2001 7:43:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Steve > Cox writes: > >> At last the MoS L is done >> >> >> Steve >> >> nb >> =========================================== >> steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk >> http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk/steveshome.html >> If I didn't spend so much time on line >> ‹‹ I'd get some models finished >> ================ > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 12:06:46 -0700 From: "David C. Fletcher" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: DH2 - Pegasus and The Knight's Tale Message-ID: <3BB76D46.1050300@mars.ark.com> Michael Kendix wrote: > Does anyone find it useful to build 2 or 3 kits at once?... My most productive periods of modelling have been when I set up an "assembly line" and built several models of the same basic type. The research time is reduced and you can assemble several interiors, etc. in fairly quick order. Time could be saved painting (especially airbrush time) except that I am sufficiently masochistic that I never choose even remotely similar schemes... Dave Fletcher -- Visit us at our Home Page: We now have a Yahoo address as well: ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 12:06:54 -0700 From: "David C. Fletcher" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... Message-ID: <3BB76D4E.5000100@mars.ark.com> Gaston Graf wrote: 1) What is the best glue to use for Balsa? Balsa cement, which is available in most hobby shops, although many modellers now use a glue gun for greater speed, especially on larger models. 2) Do you give the Balsa frame of the model a coat of varnish before covering it? Not if you want to fly it! Weight is critical. 3) Do you apply a coat of a primer to the covered model? As above - if you want a Guillow kit to fly reasonably, then don't paint it at all. Just shrink the silkspan with water and let it dry. 4) Applying a primer coat sounds logical to me to stiffen the paper that is used for covering. Do you sand it afterwards before the paint will be applied? You don't sand if you don't paint... 5) Do you have any special tips about Balsa modeling for a beginner? Take a large piece of cardboard or styrofoam and tape the plans to it. Cover the plans with wax paper and build the wing, tail and fuselage sides right on the plans. Use pins to hold the balsa pieces on place while you glue them. Keep weight to the absolute minimum! Dave Fletcher -- Visit us at our Home Page: We now have a Yahoo address as well: ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 21:13:30 +0000 From: Nigel Cheffers-Heard To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... Message-ID: >1) What is the best glue to use for Balsa? I forgot to ask the storekeeper >about it and now tried wood glue as well as a multipurpose glue for wood, >styrene, paper etc.. I think that I stick with the wood glue because it is >an easier to use liquid than the other glue. Is there any special glue that >I should use? Aliphatic resin seems to give the best compromise between strength and elasticity. Looks like white glue, handles like white glue, but works a lot better. > >2) Do you give the Balsa frame of the model a coat of varnish before >covering it? Alsolutely not! Rub it down smooth, then stick the covering to that. > >3) Do you apply a coat of a primer to the covered model? Are we talking tissue covering? On sheet? I prime with cellulose dope, but watch out for warps as it dries. Primer is very heavy. > >4) Applying a primer coat sounds logical to me to stiffen the paper that is >used for covering. Do you sand it afterwards before the paint will be >applied? > No, use dope, then paint as thin as possible. >5) Do you have any special tips about Balsa modeling for a beginner? Practice, practice, practice. Work accurately, measure twice, cut once.... etc. > >We will finish that kit as a rubber powered flyer. I think it will be big >fun for my daughter to let it fly. After that, we may build a real RC model, >or maybe some more Guillow models for training. Its a long way from a rubber powered flyer to a full powered RC model. Make haste slowly. I think the biggest problem is the flying, so I would recommend starting with a trainer, scale models tend not to be very good, especially in rubber powered sizes. It is nice to see how >interested my child is in daddy's hobby now. I am interested into RC >modeling as well because I wanted to build a big scale accurate model of a >Fokker Dr.1 before I will take on my project of a 1:1 replica. Hope you know what you are doing.......scale DR1s tend to have too short a nose, CG in the wrong place etc. Jin your local RC club, fly with them talk to them. It's a long >way to go but will sure give us much fun. > >btw: I received a message forwarded to me that the Fokker-Team Schorndorf is >looking for donations to return an original URII to Germany again. I will >ask Achim Engels about it because I believe it is the same engine that was >recently offered to me. Unfortunatly I cannot buy it at the moment and the >man who made me the offer dit come up with a price after I told him that I >cannot buy it at the moment. > >Bah - and if the real dream of a 1:1 Dr.1 will fail I still can build a >wonderful 1:4 model powered by one of these fantastic real functioning model >rotaries ;o). > Real model rotaries? Model radials tend to be of limited power-to-weight ratio. Traditional singles tend to be a better bet in practical terms. NTH N -- Nigel Cheffers-Heard photography + design tel: +44 (0)1392 87 58 57 fax: +44 (0)1392 87 74 97 mobile: 0771 261 4514 nigelch@cheffers.co.uk www.cheffers.co.uk Laburnums, Bridge Hill Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ, UK ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 10:30:03 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: OTF seminar Message-ID: <3BB130FA000A38BD@mail.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail.san.yahoo.com) Some of the presentations from San Diego are being held over for Dayton Bob ---------- >From: "David Layton" > Per a conversation I had with a board member, the problem is that it takes a > year's planning and preparation to put one of these on. > > I wonder if we could extend the 2003 Dayton an additional day to get in some > of the research that would have been presented in San Diego ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 16:52:06 EDT From: LEONARDPeterL@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Finished one Message-ID: <6c.10c880bd.28e8dff6@aol.com> In a message dated 30/09/01 20:58:02 GMT Daylight Time, steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk writes: << When I take a picture that makes it look better than it is >> Hey! I built an entire web site on that principle ;) cheers Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 18:00:43 -0300 From: "Marcio Antonio Campos" To: Subject: Update on my planes Message-ID: <004d01c149f2$f97cbf20$9277e2c8@computador> Hello, folks! This weekend I worked a bit more in my models. Let me tell you what happened: Pfalz D.IIIa: I placed cabane struts (with hard hard work), so the only part missing is landing gear. So, it's 90% ready! Albatros D.III I joined fuselage halves and lower wing, and painted the greens in upper side of top wing. Next week I'll paint the brown, and it'll be ready. No problems till now :-) And, about the Fokker D.VII Anthology vol. 1 I received Friday, just 4 words: Wow! Wow! Wow! Wow! Great book, and I'll take a looooong time to read it because my English isn't good enough to understand all those aviation vocabulary without a dictionary :-) However, I found at least three profiles that interested me a lot: two "ravens" and another plane from Jasta 19 (not vB-M). Reading the book, I discovered that there are as many different cowlings and radiators as there are stars in the sky... however, I'm not planning to correct any of the kits I'll build in the future, I'm sorry. Dicta Ira!!!! All the best from Brazil Marcio Campos ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 14:20:20 -0700 From: "R N Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Some Qs about Balsa wood.... Message-ID: <200109301614656.SM01192@[204.244.50.32]> > 3) Do you apply a coat of a primer to the covered model? > > As above - if you want a Guillow kit to fly reasonably, then don't paint > it at all. Just shrink the silkspan with water and let it dry. For my 28" Guillows Camel I used very thin watercolour sprayed on to both colour and shrink the tissue covering. I'll probably do the same when I finally recover my Sopwith triplane Bob ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 15:43:34 -0400 From: "Tom Sollers" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: He shoots, he SCORES II Message-ID: <200109302133.f8ULXXH26755@mail.bcpl.net> Marc: You lucky dog! I've been looking for that volume to complete my set too! I guess I'll have to start lurking around AddAll too. Tom ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 08:15:41 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Osprey WWI American Aces Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCD5A1@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Tom asks: > Just noticed in the new Squadron update that along with the > release of the > DR.I and Spad Aces from Osprey is an additional release entitled "WWI > American Aces". Has anyone had a look at this yet? A nice quick read.... Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 08:19:13 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Back Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7102BCD5A2@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Matt, > I see the list is back into the swing of things, especially since > everyone's talking about Nieuports. Well, everyone but Shane. ;-) My dear old Ma taught me that if you didn't have anything nice to say, don't say anything. ;-) Good to see you back mate - just damned sorry about the circumstance. Shane nb An OT ship, which is keeping me too busy altogether nb Eduard Dr.I, for a club contest I'm obliged to support (great little kit BTW) ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 International ++61 7 38338042 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 23:57:06 +0100 From: Steve Cox To: Subject: Re: Finished one Message-ID: > Peter L writes > > > Hey! I built an entire web site on that principle ;) > Snap Steve nb =========================================== steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk/steveshome.html If I didn't spend so much time on line ‹‹ I'd get some models finished ================ ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3762 **********************