WWI Digest 3361 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Early Aviation Models: Sir Thomas Sopwith from Fathom.com by Crawford Neil 2) RE: Model Criticism by Crawford Neil 3) Oeffag D.III by Witold Kozakiewicz 4) RE: Model Criticism by "dfernet0" 5) LVG C.V by "dfernet0" 6) RE: Model Criticism by Crawford Neil 7) Re: LVG C.V by Witold Kozakiewicz 8) RE: LVG C.V by "Tomasz Gronczewski" 9) RE: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by Crawford Neil 10) RE: Model Criticism by "Bittner, Matthew E. (KTR)~U" 11) Re: LVG C.V by "Steven M.Perry" 12) RE: LVG C.V by "Tomasz Gronczewski" 13) Ceramic Fibre / Attn: Michael by Andreikor@aol.com 14) RE: Model Criticism by "dfernet0" 15) RE: LVG C.V by "dfernet0" 16) new use for Future by "Steven M.Perry" 17) Re: Ceramic Fibre / Attn: Michael by "Michael Kendix" 18) RE:Rigging for dummies, Part ! by Crawford Neil 19) Re: LVG C.V by Witold Kozakiewicz 20) RE: Ceramic Fibre / Attn: Michael by "dfernet0" 21) RE:Rigging for dummies, Part ! by "Michael Kendix" 22) Re: Translation needed by "Lance Krieg" 23) RE: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by "Marcio Antonio Campos" 24) 'Bye for the weekend! by "DAVID BURKE" 25) Stretched Sprue pointers wasRe: RE:Rigging for dummies, Part ! by "Steven M.Perry" 26) RE: Model Criticism by Crawford Neil 27) RE: Model Criticism by "dfernet0" 28) RE: Rigging for dummies, Part ! by Crawford Neil 29) RE: Choroszy by Brent Theobald 30) RE: Rigging for dummies, Part ! by "Bittner, Matthew E. (KTR)~U" 31) RE: Qn about wash by Brent Theobald ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 12:19:58 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Early Aviation Models: Sir Thomas Sopwith from Fathom.com Message-ID: Yes it is interesting, I liked his anecdote of getting a Wright into the air in 9 seconds, including engine start! I wish the interviewer had asked him some better questions, like what colour the Sopwith text was on the Schneider racer:-) /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: Ray Boorman [mailto:Ray_Boorman@telus.net] > Sent: den 11 maj 2001 05:27 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: FW: Early Aviation Models: Sir Thomas Sopwith from Fathom.com > > > The link below came in on the history list that Michael > Kendix has mentioned > in the past. Its a good link for Sopwith fans. If you have a > high speed > connection you can even hear the interview from Sir Thomas himself. > > Ray > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 12:38:38 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Model Criticism Message-ID: Sorry Diego, I was supposed to be gentle, but look at the Ni28 as a case. I left the fuselage more or less "as-is", I didn't fix the wings, I did the seat by just cutting out, some diamonds in a thin plastic back, in fact as much cheating as possible. It still took me six months to get it finished, (I build slowly). IIRC Matt didn't fix the wings on his either, even Alberto only fixed the wings, but left the fuselage as it was. But the important thing is we all got the bugger finished (excuse my language). Just bang it together, we want to see it finished much more than we want to see it perfect, I'll modify that, I'd love to see it perfect, but the risk is that it never will get finished if you carry on like this. Even so it IS a pleasure to see such exquisite parts, but please FINISH it! /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar] > Sent: den 11 maj 2001 12:22 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE: Model Criticism > > > Neil! > > Your biggest problem has nothing to do with modelling, > > it's in your head > > Funny, just what the doctors say. ;-) > Thanks Neil! > D. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:16:24 +0200 From: Witold Kozakiewicz To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: Oeffag D.III Message-ID: <3AFBCA08.F6C08BFD@bg.am.lodz.pl> I got today very interesting model for galery on Polish Modelers Website http://www.modelarstwo.org.pl/lotnicze/galeria/szczypka/albatros_diii(oef)_53/index.html -- Witold Kozakiewicz ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:25:50 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Model Criticism Message-ID: <009d01c0da0d$22738540$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> No troubles Neil! The fuselage detailing is the part I enjoy more of the project, so I look at this part of the project as the most enjoyable. Regarding the wings, I wanted to correct the gaps for the wing struts connecting bars but when filling and sanding I got carried away and erased much more than I really wanted, so I opted for the "whole nine yards" that is, the Casirati approach. Besides, as I'm always doing things that are fairly new to me (as detailing wings or crashmoulding parts) I tend to delay my project a little more. I got burned away soon of the tedious chores, so I switch on other models and do more mistakes, and so on... I truly hope to finish this bugger (excuse my language) but my building rate is delayed too because I keep fascnated to some of the enginnering of those ancient planes that are not so simple as one think they are before commiting to study them in depth. And don't worry, you'll never see it perfect, just decent! D. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:31:27 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: LVG C.V Message-ID: <00a301c0da0d$eb2b7e20$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi Does anyone have a picture of a LVG C.5 with a fuselage marking with the name "WANDA"? Is it on the datafile? I will order it in the near future, but i'd love to see this picture before. Thanks in advance D. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:31:35 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Model Criticism Message-ID: Build the way you like to, don't listen to me, if you're having fun it doesn't really matter if you never get it finished, and keep posting them pictures! /Neil ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:51:09 +0200 From: Witold Kozakiewicz To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: LVG C.V Message-ID: <3AFBD22D.E406F689@bg.am.lodz.pl> dfernet0 napisał(a): > > Hi > Does anyone have a picture of a LVG C.5 with a fuselage marking with the > name "WANDA"? Is it on the datafile? I will order it in the near future, but > i'd love to see this picture before. > Thanks in advance > D. I have in one of my books. I would scan and send it but after weekend. I do not have scanner at home. -- Witold Kozakiewicz ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:49:03 +0200 From: "Tomasz Gronczewski" To: Subject: RE: LVG C.V Message-ID: > Hi > Does anyone have a picture of a LVG C.5 with a fuselage marking with the > name "WANDA"? Is it on the datafile? I will order it in the near future, but > i'd love to see this picture before. Diego, I suspect you are talking about a Polish LVG C.5 used during Polish Soviet war. Do you mean references on a real thing? Cheers Tomasz -----------------R--E--K--L--A--M--A----------------- Lepsze wiadomosci z kraju i z zagranicy. Nie wierzysz? Sprawdz - http://wiadomosci.interia.pl/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 14:06:50 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: Hmm, when I suggested this I wondered if it was a good idea for beginners, I guess I was wrong. You have to know what you are doing, constant checking and moving your finger-grip is a must. It IS a good idea to avoid puttying as much as possible, and this is a good way of doing that. The most important thing for a beginner is to build lots of models, and not worry too much about how they turn out, sooner or later you will do a good one, you learn by mistakes. /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: Ray Boorman [mailto:Ray_B@prontomail.com] > Sent: den 10 maj 2001 20:58 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 > > > One thing to be carefull of with this method an especially when going > to vacforms is you must be almost paranoid about fitting the peices > together to make sure you arn't pressing to hard on one spot and > creating a banana effect and the gaps that come from that. > > It was almost 3 vacforms before I got past the gaps this method can > introduce. Injection molded models are probably not at issue but its > real easy to sand to much off one spot if you are not carefull about > constant pressure and a light touch. > > As to 1/72 ignore all the critics 1/72 rules the rest drool ;0) (Just > kidding folks really ) > > Ray > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 12:21:14 -0000 From: "Bittner, Matthew E. (KTR)~U" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Model Criticism Message-ID: <850CD1B940F1D31181590000929B19DA017466AE@mail3.stratcom.mil> > -----Original Message----- > From: Crawford Neil [mailto:Neil.Crawford@volvo.com] > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 5:43 AM > IIRC Matt didn't fix the wings on his > either, even Alberto only fixed the wings, but left the > fuselage as it was. But the important thing is we all got > the bugger finished (excuse my language). Actually, I "kind of" did the wings. The only thing I corrected was the cut out above the cockpit. Otherwise I thought the difference was too slight. Okay, refresh my memory, please. Exactly what is wrong with the fuselage again? Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:27:49 -0400 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Re: LVG C.V Message-ID: <003101c0da15$cbb85ec0$09f0aec7@default> > > Does anyone have a picture of a LVG C.5 with a fuselage marking with the > > name "WANDA"? Is it on the datafile? I will order it in the near future, but > > i'd love to see this picture before. > > Thanks in advance > > D. I'm also fixin to do a "Wanda" LVG for my RCW client. I'd sure be interested in seeing any photos too. I also have a specific question about "Wanda". The Box art is a painting of the aircraft strafing ground troops on a farmstead. The aircraft has no spinner. Can anyone tell me what the front of the fuselage would have looked like? Perhaps lightening holes in a round former? Surely not a solid wall of styrene with a vertical seam and slightly misaligned propshaft hole ;-). TIA sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 14:24:38 +0200 From: "Tomasz Gronczewski" To: Subject: RE: LVG C.V Message-ID: > I have in one of my books. I would scan and send it but after weekend. What kind of book do you mean Witold? I know I have some photos, but can't recall where they have been printed. > I > do not have scanner at home. Funny. Now I have a scanner at home but temporarily no access to e-mail. I think we should be compiled somehow in order to be of any value to the list ;o)) Tomasz -----------------R--E--K--L--A--M--A----------------- Lepsze wiadomosci z kraju i z zagranicy. Nie wierzysz? Sprawdz - http://wiadomosci.interia.pl/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:38:18 EDT From: Andreikor@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Ceramic Fibre / Attn: Michael Message-ID: <71.d4c2099.282d373a@aol.com> The ceramic fibre is '6 mil', about the width of 1/2 pound test fishing line painted. It is a dark metallic finish, so requires no painting. Cheers, Andrei Andrei Koribanics II 8 Falcon Place Wayne, NJ 07470 USA Voice/Fax: 973-696-9378 email: andreikor@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 09:52:03 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: "ww1 list" Subject: RE: Model Criticism Message-ID: <000f01c0da19$2dc38600$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Matt: > Okay, refresh my memory, please. Exactly what is wrong with the fuselage > again? Is too slim aft the cockpit and the space amongst formers is "sucked in" too much for my taste. I think that I can remedy this with careful and several applications of diluted tamiya putty. On the forward part, the panel lines are wide and deep, and I filled all and replace the upper part with a heat moulded styrene replacement "A la Casirati" in the nieuport that appeared in FSM to ease the palcement of interior details. The lower wings undersides are convex, not concave nor flat, so I sanded those too. But careful! the wings result so thin that the holes for the strut in the lower wings show thru. D. Next step: new wing tapes, new tail surfaces- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 09:54:19 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: LVG C.V Message-ID: <001d01c0da19$7e6ec4c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Steve! > I also have a specific question about "Wanda". The Box art is a painting of > the aircraft strafing ground troops on a farmstead. The aircraft has no > spinner. Can anyone tell me what the front of the fuselage would have looked > like? Perhaps lightening holes in a round former? Surely not a solid wall of > styrene with a vertical seam and slightly misaligned propshaft hole ;-). I noted that too. Maybe they had a thingie like those on the Albatrosen. Maybe you can put the spinner on and say: "that's how it looked before they took the spinner off!" ;-) D. accuracy freak ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:55:31 -0400 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: new use for Future Message-ID: <005101c0da19$a9dacbe0$09f0aec7@default> One more use for Future. I have a slab (16" x 24" x 5/16") of a hard composite material used for kitchen counter tops. This sets on my bench as a work surface. On top of this is a 12" square by 3/8" thick tile of hard black rubber I use to cut things on. Both get paint drips, CA blobs etc. I periodically take and sand them smooth. This time I "waxed the floor" as it were. After cleaning them up, I poured on some Future and rubbed it in with a rag. It makes spooge removal much easier. fwiw sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:04:14 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Ceramic Fibre / Attn: Michael Message-ID: Andrei: You mean it is .006 of one inch (not 6 milimeters:))? Michael >From: Andreikor@aol.com >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Ceramic Fibre / Attn: Michael >Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:44:52 -0400 (EDT) > >The ceramic fibre is '6 mil', about the width of 1/2 pound test fishing >line >painted. It is a dark metallic finish, so requires no painting. >Cheers, >Andrei > >Andrei Koribanics II >8 Falcon Place >Wayne, NJ 07470 >USA >Voice/Fax: 973-696-9378 >email: andreikor@aol.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 14:26:39 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE:Rigging for dummies, Part ! Message-ID: We've had two suggestions for beginners rigging, so I may as well come with the third. My first rigging was done on a Swordfish. I just softened black sprue over a candle, pulled and I got some fairly thick, and not perfectly straight strue. I cut this out in suitable lengths and glued it in place with plastic cement. It was dead easy, even though I made the mistake of using plastic cement, it was a good first attempt, and made me want to continue. So my suggestion for a first attempt is stretched sprue, but use white glue. It's nice and cheap, once you've learnt the basics, you can keep refining your technique in absurdum, and it's something you'll probably need to learn anyway, because even when using steel wire, there are some places you still are forced to use stretched sprue for instance DH4 controll wires, and I wonder if those are possible with monofilament? /Neil ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 15:09:12 +0200 From: Witold Kozakiewicz To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: LVG C.V Message-ID: <3AFBE478.FEA70479@bg.am.lodz.pl> Tomasz Gronczewski napisał(a): > > > I have in one of my books. I would scan and send it but after weekend. > > What kind of book do you mean Witold? I know I have some photos, but can't > recall where they have been printed. I'm quite sure that it was "Godlo i barwa w lotnictwie polskim" T. Krolikiewicz. -- Witold Kozakiewicz ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 10:15:42 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Ceramic Fibre / Attn: Michael Message-ID: <008a01c0da1c$7b7cf4a0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Are you building a model in 3:1 scale, Michael? ;-) D. born metric ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Kendix > > You mean it is .006 of one inch (not 6 milimeters:))? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:23:53 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE:Rigging for dummies, Part ! Message-ID: >From: Crawford Neil > >because even when using steel >wire, there are some places you still are forced to use stretched >sprue for instance DH4 controll wires, Neil: Which wires do you mean? Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:25:50 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Translation needed Message-ID: Jim asks: "Any idea what kind of map case might hang from the Support de Porte." Yes. In this case it is less of a map case than a map holder, a small board with tapes or hold-downs to secure a map so the pilot could easily glance at it when checking his guages. It would sit above the small stud, which would be tightened down to hold the map panel/board (planchette, in your newly-found French). HTH Lance ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 10:47:16 -0300 From: "Marcio Antonio Campos" To: Subject: RE: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: <002601c0da20$e498c640$351ba8c0@office.br.starmedia.com> > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of > Crawford Neil > Subject: RE: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 > >The most important thing for a beginner > is to build lots of models, and not worry too much about how they turn > out, sooner or later you will do a good one, you learn by mistakes. > /Neil So curious. Yesterday I went to a hobby shop near my office and there was a Roland CII in the showcase. As far as I know, models displated there are supposed to be good ones. Guess what, my own Roland was not so far from what I saw there :-))) Best regards from Brazil Marcio Antonio Campos Redator do GuiaSP StarMedia do Brasil marcio.campos@starmedia.net http://www.guiasp.com.br http://www.guiarj.com.br http://www.nacidade.com.br ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:51:04 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: 'Bye for the weekend! Message-ID: <005c01c0da21$80272980$17a31e3f@oemcomputer> Well Guys, I'm riding the bike down to New Orleans, so I'm unsubbing. I put some salmon-colored rib tape on my Gotha - it looks pretty cool as does the SSW D.III that I started about 2 years ago and am now finishing. For all you Mothers - Happy Mother's Day, and I AM OUTTA HERE!!! DB ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 10:11:02 -0400 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Stretched Sprue pointers wasRe: RE:Rigging for dummies, Part ! Message-ID: <006d01c0da24$366461c0$09f0aec7@default> Sprue stretching tips 1. heat till soft all the way through over a candle flame. 2. When soft pull it slowly, if it breaks pull the next one slower. 3. Hold it so it hangs dead straight. Takes a minute or two to cool completely. 4. Prepaint the whole pull. Paint in a bottle cap and paint on a Q-Tip. Hold the sprue down in the cap with the Q-tip and pull the sprue gently through. 5. Th ends of the pull will be too thick and the middle will be too thin. Discard these the pieces. This leaves two straight even diameter sections. Cut these into 5" lengths for 1/72 ot 7" lengths for 1/48. Sprue Rigging tips. 1. Make an anchor hole/dimple on the end of the run most visible as the model will be displayed. (#80 drill, hot pin, twiddled X-acto- blade.) Don't go through. 2. Dip end of a piece of sprue in a puddle of fairly thick CA, (Let thin ca set in a puddle for 5 or ten min) 3. Insert the end with the tiny blob of CA into the dimple. Make sure the wire is running pretty close to the direction it needs to run and LET IT SET. 4. Pull the wire taught and estimate where to cut. Estimate long and trim down to exact size. Place a tiny drop of CA where the wire will meet thmodel and set the wire in place. A little slack is OK. 5. Tighten wire with pin heated in candle flame, incense stick, cancer stick. Hold the model so you can wave the hot instrument under the wire allowing the heat to rise up to the wire. KEEP IT MOVING AND NOT TOO CLOSE. The wire will heat, go slack and then snap taught. Magic! Move the heat source QUICKLY away as soon as it starts to snap tight. You will burn through some wires, replace them. You burn through a lot less wires than you will bend into unusability trying to use stainless steel wire. HTH sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 14:35:11 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Model Criticism Message-ID: Exagerated rib detail, too skinny, trenches instead of panel-lines. And Diego seems to be doing a lot of work behind the engine. /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: Bittner, Matthew E. (KTR)~U [mailto:BITTNERM@stratcom.mil] > Sent: den 11 maj 2001 14:26 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE: Model Criticism > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Crawford Neil [mailto:Neil.Crawford@volvo.com] > > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 5:43 AM > > > IIRC Matt didn't fix the wings on his > > either, even Alberto only fixed the wings, but left the > > fuselage as it was. But the important thing is we all got > > the bugger finished (excuse my language). > > Actually, I "kind of" did the wings. The only thing I > corrected was the cut > out above the cockpit. Otherwise I thought the difference > was too slight. > > Okay, refresh my memory, please. Exactly what is wrong with > the fuselage > again? > > > Matt Bittner > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 11:32:05 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Model Criticism Message-ID: <001301c0da27$26dd7040$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Just for my own pleasure: the oil tank is completely invisible behind the engine and inside the cowl. D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Crawford Neil > Exagerated rib detail, too skinny, trenches instead of panel-lines. > And Diego seems to be doing a lot of work behind the engine. > /Neil > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 15:46:25 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Rigging for dummies, Part ! Message-ID: The ones that go from a pylon below the rear cockpit to the tail, they are too long for steel wire, they sag under their own weight. Last time I mentioned them I said they were paralell, they are not because they are the elevator control wires, they are crossed. /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Kendix [mailto:mkendix@hotmail.com] > Sent: den 11 maj 2001 15:29 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE:Rigging for dummies, Part ! > > > >From: Crawford Neil > > > >because even when using steel > >wire, there are some places you still are forced to use stretched > >sprue for instance DH4 controll wires, > > Neil: > > Which wires do you mean? > > Michael > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 10:09:21 -0500 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Choroszy Message-ID: <4B9386E83999D411997100508BAF206A01608FD9@stamail.telecom.sna.samsung.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DA2C.5B673300 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" FYI Gang, I have the whole Fredreichshaven G.III/G.IIIa thing figured out. Mr. Choroszy delivered exactly what we ordered. I had an error in my notes. So everyone gets what they ordered. The bad news is none of the Fredrichshavens G.III/G.IIIa's have been taken to the post office yet. I have Monday off and will take them all then. Please continue to be patient. Thanks! Brent -----Original Message----- From: Matt Bittner [mailto:tbittners@sprintmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 10:13 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Choroszy Well, my Choroszy Modelbud "order" from Brent showed up today. For those who don't know I ordered the Ansaldo SVA 5. One word: beautiful! This is a work of art - I hope I can do the kit justice whenever I get around to building it. The decals themselves are worth the cost of the kit. Thanks, Brent!! Matt Bittner ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DA2C.5B673300 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: Choroszy

FYI Gang,

I have the whole Fredreichshaven G.III/G.IIIa thing = figured out. Mr. Choroszy delivered exactly what we ordered. I had an = error in my notes. So everyone gets what they ordered. The bad news is = none of the Fredrichshavens G.III/G.IIIa's have been taken to the post = office yet. I have Monday off and will take them all then.

Please continue to be patient.

Thanks!

Brent

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Bittner [mailto:tbittners@sprintmail.com= ]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 10:13 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list
Subject: Choroszy


Well, my Choroszy Modelbud "order" from = Brent showed up today.  For
those who don't know I ordered the Ansaldo SVA = 5.  One word: beautiful!
 This is a work of art - I hope I can do the = kit justice whenever I get
around to building it.  The decals themselves = are worth the cost of the
kit.

Thanks, Brent!!


Matt Bittner

------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DA2C.5B673300-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 15:12:58 -0000 From: "Bittner, Matthew E. (KTR)~U" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Rigging for dummies, Part ! Message-ID: <850CD1B940F1D31181590000929B19DA0174694F@mail3.stratcom.mil> > -----Original Message----- > From: Crawford Neil [mailto:Neil.Crawford@volvo.com] > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 10:11 AM > The ones that go from a pylon below the rear cockpit to the > tail, they are too > long for steel wire, they sag under their own weight. Last > time I mentioned > them I said they were paralell, they are not because they are > the elevator > control wires, they are crossed. I don't agree about the sagging. I used wire on the Strutter I built for the wires that went from under the gunner's 'pit to the tail. No sagging, no worries. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 10:15:43 -0500 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Qn about wash Message-ID: <4B9386E83999D411997100508BAF206A01608FDA@stamail.telecom.sna.samsung.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DA2D.3F3B7AA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Howdy! A quick tip... I found my washes worked better when I put a thin coat of clean thinner on the model first. Then apply the wash while the clean thinner is still wet. My washes "flow" better now that I use this technique. I use oils, usually burnt umber, raw umber, sienna etc, thinned with mineral spirits. I protect my model with Future floorwax, but I have been experimenting with Minwax Polyurethane varnish too. The Minwax is a lot tougher but I am concerned about it yellowing. So far it hasn't that I can tell. Good luck YMMV! Brent -----Original Message----- From: Sanjeev Hirve [mailto:shirve@evincible.com] Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 10:09 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Qn about wash This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0D962.1A0A55E2 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hullo, This is the first time I am trying use oil paint wash for the dirtying effect. Do I apply it by airbrush, or with a brush? How do I prevent the turpentine from dissolving the (enamel) paint? Can I switch to a cheap turpentine? thanks SSH ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0D962.1A0A55E2 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Qn about wash

Hullo,
  This is the first time I am trying use oil = paint wash for the dirtying effect.  Do I apply it by airbrush, or = with a brush?  How do I prevent the turpentine from dissolving the = (enamel) paint?

Can I switch to a cheap turpentine?
thanks
SSH

------_=_NextPart_001_01C0D962.1A0A55E2-- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DA2D.3F3B7AA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: Qn about wash

Howdy!

A quick tip...

I found my washes worked better when I put a thin = coat of clean thinner on the model first. Then apply the wash while the = clean thinner is still wet. My washes "flow" better now that = I use this technique.

I use oils, usually burnt umber, raw umber, sienna = etc, thinned with mineral spirits. I protect my model with Future = floorwax, but I have been experimenting with Minwax Polyurethane = varnish too. The Minwax is a lot tougher but I am concerned about it = yellowing. So far it hasn't that I can tell.

Good luck YMMV!

Brent

-----Original Message-----
From: Sanjeev Hirve [mailto:shirve@evincible.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 10:09 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list
Subject: Qn about wash


This message is in MIME format. Since your mail = reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be = legible.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
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Hullo,
  This is the first time I am trying use oil = paint wash for the dirtying
effect.  Do I apply it by airbrush, or with a = brush?  How do I prevent the
turpentine from dissolving the (enamel) = paint?
Can I switch to a cheap turpentine?
thanks
SSH

------_=3D_NextPart_001_01C0D962.1A0A55E2
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<P><FONT = SIZE=3D3D2>Hullo,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D3D2>&nbsp; This is = the first time I am trying use oil =3D
paint wash for the dirtying effect.&nbsp; Do I = apply it by airbrush, or =3D
with a brush?&nbsp; How do I prevent the = turpentine from dissolving the =3D
(enamel) paint?</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D3D2>Can I switch to a = cheap turpentine?</FONT>
<BR><FONT = SIZE=3D3D2>thanks</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D3D2>SSH </FONT>
</P>

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