WWI Digest 3359 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) DH.2 Tail Booms - metal or wood? by Jerald_R._Tracy@lnotes5.bankofny.com 2) New Posts by Allan Wright 3) Re: dry transfers and lettering by "David C. Fletcher" 4) Re: DH.2 Tail Booms - metal or wood? by MAnde72343@aol.com 5) RE: Part Pe Sets by "dfernet0" 6) Re: Part Pe Sets by MAnde72343@aol.com 7) RE: Model Criticism by "dfernet0" 8) Re: ALPS Decals by Peter Fedders 9) RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by "dfernet0" 10) Re: DH.2 Tail Booms - metal or wood? by "Hans Trauner" 11) RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by "Marcio Antonio Campos" 12) Re: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by "Muth and Zulick" 13) Re: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by "Ray Boorman" 14) RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by "Michael Kendix" 15) Re: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by "Michael Kendix" 16) Modeling for dummies, Part ! by MAnde72343@aol.com 17) Re: Qn about wash by "Muth and Zulick" 18) Re: Qn about wash by MAnde72343@aol.com 19) RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by Mark Miller 20) RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 by "Paul E. Thompson" 21) Re: Tom's dry transfers and lettering by "Bob Pearson" 22) RE: Qn about wash by "Gaston Graf" 23) Re: Modeling for dummies, Part ! by "Michael Kendix" 24) Re: Modeling for dummies, Part ! by MAnde72343@aol.com 25) Re: Qn about wash by "Michael Kendix" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 13:09:58 -0400 From: Jerald_R._Tracy@lnotes5.bankofny.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: DH.2 Tail Booms - metal or wood? Message-ID: <85256A48.005E4977.00@lnotes5.bankofny.com> Hello: A friend is painting up some 1/144 DH.2 models, and is wondering how to paint the tail booms. I thought they were wood, but another acquaintance claims they were aluminum. Any help you can offer is appreciated! JR ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 13:15:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Allan Wright To: wwi Subject: New Posts Message-ID: <200105101715.NAA01222@pease1.sr.unh.edu> I'm in a bit of a pinch right now at work and at home (I coach high school Track & Field and it's the busy part of the season.) so I won't be getting to posting anything new until Monday - sorry for the delay to those who have sent me stuff. Thanks, Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 10:13:19 -0700 From: "David C. Fletcher" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: dry transfers and lettering Message-ID: <3AFACC2F.2060004@mars.ark.com> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: David Fleming [mailto:dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com] >> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 8:33 AM > >> Has anyone tried applying the dry tarnsfers to some clear decal film, >> varnishing them, then applying to the model... Instead of varnishing, get some 3M '8-11' tape. This is matte tape with 'Post-It' cement on it. You can place the individual letters still on the plastic carrier face down on the sticky side of a strip of the tape until you are happy with the alignment and spacing and then apply the tape to the model, repositioning as necessary. Then, rub down as usual but peel off the tape when you are finished and voila! Perfectly aligned and positioned markings. There are multiple other uses for '8-11' tape around the modelling table, so check out the local stationery supply stores. It is excellent for masking wavy lines, as it cuts with only slight pressure on an X-Acto blade. Dave Fletcher -- Visit us at our Home Page: ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 13:16:54 EDT From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: DH.2 Tail Booms - metal or wood? Message-ID: --part1_a2.14003bf3.282c2706_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The booms were steel tube, but the braces were wood, although the Datafile Illustrations show them as painted gray. Merrill --part1_a2.14003bf3.282c2706_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The booms were steel tube, but the braces were wood, although the Datafile
Illustrations show them as painted gray.
Merrill --part1_a2.14003bf3.282c2706_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:22:07 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Part Pe Sets Message-ID: <01dd01c0d975$bd239280$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> MAtt wrote: > What about seat belts? Part going to do any of those? No please! I just finished the scratchbuilt seatbelts for the N28 last night! D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 13:26:46 EDT From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Part Pe Sets Message-ID: <96.140391a5.282c2956@aol.com> --part1_96.140391a5.282c2956_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Eduard Makes seatbelts sets, in both scales, and specific as to nationality (and very nice too) Sets # 48-302, 48-303 and 48-318, for smaller scale, 72-330, 331, and 332, these have been out for at least six months. Merrill --part1_96.140391a5.282c2956_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Eduard Makes seatbelts sets, in both scales, and specific as to nationality
(and very nice too) Sets # 48-302, 48-303 and 48-318, for smaller scale,
72-330, 331, and 332, these have been out for at least six months.
Merrill --part1_96.140391a5.282c2956_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:52:01 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Model Criticism Message-ID: <022901c0d979$ead260e0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Dame Karen wrote: > Ah, Diego, I'm always gentle... Ladies always are. Thanks for checking! Now I wonder if those Doves didn't had copper encased cylinders... Nahhhhh! I already glued them son black will stay! D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 12:53:16 -0400 (EDT) From: Peter Fedders To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: ALPS Decals Message-ID: John, The Alps decals in you Halb DIII worked fine. I used a small amount of microset solution mixed with water. peter On Wed, 9 May 2001, John & Allison Cyganowski wrote: > Yes I had ALPS decals made for our Halberstadt D.III kit because I was > tired of dealing with Microscale. They are very nice. I think Peter > Fedders used them on his kit. Peter, did you use setting solution for > these? > > Regards, > John Cyg. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 15:01:54 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: <027b01c0d97b$4c4b9340$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Marcio! > 1 - what should I get right now, before putting my hands in another unlucky > kit? First of all, enthusiasm. Don't get tired when something doesn't ends that way you wanted to. Keep on it, do it again, or learn for the next model. Practice, practice, practice! Besides, take all the incovenients with a pinch of salt, and have fun. Another useful tool is a set of needle files (there is a very economic set made by a brazilian firm, I can't recall it now) You'll use the different shapes to roughly correct some plastic shapes and later work with sandpaper or manicure sanding sticks (see Karen how I admit it?). > 2 - what should I get later, when I feel more self-confident (I ask you now > because, if there's something more expensive, I must start saving money)? A Dremel type motor tool. Very useful. > Not to forget: although it may sound heretical for most of you, I don't plan > to start rigging my WWI planes in a few years, unless I receive a > supernatural light from the gods of modelling :-)))) Well it's a matter of taste. You can practice in those old models you don't like anymore. There are several rigging techniques and you can try and learn the different approaches. And above all: Have fun! D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 20:25:49 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: DH.2 Tail Booms - metal or wood? Message-ID: <001d01c0d97e$b5d33b80$f9ab72d4@FRITZweb> IIRC: Horizontal booms= metal rod, grey painted Vertical struts: Wood, wood painted Hans > Hello: > > A friend is painting up some 1/144 DH.2 models, and is wondering how to paint > the tail booms. I thought they were wood, but another acquaintance claims they > were aluminum. Any help you can offer is appreciated! > > JR > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 15:27:10 -0300 From: "Marcio Antonio Campos" To: Subject: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: <006201c0d97e$d454ae40$351ba8c0@office.br.starmedia.com> Hello, folks! Once I've already received some answers, I'd like to say thanks to you all. And, of course, let me comment some things you've written. Michael Kendix: "If you prefer German aeroplanes and you have access to Revell kits, I recommend the Fokker D.VII. Folks on the list will describe its shortcomings but in my view it is a first rate kit for the money, especially for someone starting out. If you don't want to do the hexagon lozenge pattern by hand - it can be done, I've tried it - there are 1 or 2 schemes (for example, Goering's all white) that do not need lozenge patterns." Michael, I've got a Revell Fokker DVII and plan to buy some more for my Jasta 18 project (I've already told you something about this). I'll paint the first one I bought as Rudolph Berthold's plane, as the instructions say (to be honest, I see little fun in Göring's plane - I like colorful things). It's good to hear that lozenge can be done. ------ Mike Muth: "Oh yeah, trigrit sandpaper...it took me 3 years of building models before I realized that seams weren't supposed to show!" Aren't they? Oh, my God! :-))) Speaking seriously now, I was wondering how I'd make them disappear. "I would suggest an airbrush with a compressor. The quality of how the paint looks when airbrushed is very high and can make a bad model look all right." Thanks, I'll discover how much it costs here. ------- Shon Howell: "Possibly, you should work in a larger scale (1/48 or 1/32) to build your confidence and skills before moving back to 1/72 scale." Neil Crawford: "PS. And don't listen to anybody saying you should give up 1/72 ;-) and Matt Bittner: "Indeed! All others are scale-wannabee's. ;-)" I agree :-)))))))) --------- Neil again: "And a nice easy starter is a Spad not a Fokker (more smileys)" Smart guy, trying to make me deviate from the right way. ---------- More Neil: "I was going to applaud your suggestion of using acrylics, because just like you say Mike, they are easier to clean up, and easier to deal with for a beginner. But then I had second thoughts, because I think enamels are perhaps easier to brush-paint" And I'm still a brush-painter. "Another suggestion about puttying is a method of avoiding it. You will need this technique when you do your first vacuform too." What? -------- Diego: "First of all, enthusiasm. Don't get tired when something doesn't ends that way you wanted to. Keep on it, do it again, or learn for the next model. Practice, practice, practice! Besides, take all the incovenients with a pinch of salt, and have fun." Don't worry about it. I do have fun even when the plane seems horrible. And I wouldn't be ruining my bank account if I didn't find modelling funny. I'd be collecting butterflies instead (nothing against butterflies, of course) :-D "You can practice in those old models you don't like anymore. There are several rigging techniques and you can try and learn the different approaches." I've already read about rigging techniques in the sites you all have on the web, but I think I'll have to wait till finding someone who can give me a practical lesson :-)))) ---------- Well, friends, thanks again and always waiting for more advice, Marcio Antonio Campos Redator do GuiaSP StarMedia do Brasil marcio.campos@starmedia.net http://www.guiasp.com.br http://www.guiarj.com.br http://www.nacidade.com.br ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:39:55 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Re: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: <00be01c0d980$9ddb2540$0100005a@ptd.net> > I was going to applaud your suggestion of using acrylics, because just > like you say Mike, they are easier to clean up, and easier to deal with > for a beginner. But then I had second thoughts, because I think enamels > are perhaps easier to brush-paint, in the old days Humbrol enamels were > always the most popular with the brush painters, but now they have changed > them so I don't really know. Any ideas from the brush-painters? Neil I use both. I like the enamels for gun metal and some fiddly-bits. I also use them if I happen to like the color. They seems to air brush a little easier than arcylics, but the cleanup is daunting. The Polly-S or Polly-Scale (I never can remember which is the new version) acylics go on very nicely with a brush. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 11:56:37 -0700 From: "Ray Boorman" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: <38CA04E1C5545D115AF50005B80A9E19@Ray_B.prontomail.com> One thing to be carefull of with this method an especially when going to vacforms is you must be almost paranoid about fitting the peices together to make sure you arn't pressing to hard on one spot and creating a banana effect and the gaps that come from that. It was almost 3 vacforms before I got past the gaps this method can introduce. Injection molded models are probably not at issue but its real easy to sand to much off one spot if you are not carefull about constant pressure and a light touch. As to 1/72 ignore all the critics 1/72 rules the rest drool ;0) (Just kidding folks really ) Ray > Another suggestion about puttying is a method of avoiding it. > You will need this technique when you do your first vacuform too. > Get a piece of glass or something else absolutely flat, get a > big sheet of > fairly coarse wet and dry sandpaper (100 grain or coarser) > and lay it on > the glass. Then take your fuselage halves, remove the > locating pins, then > sand each of the mating surfaces flat on the sandpaper. When > you glue the > halves together you will notice that they match up better, > and there are > no gaps. Locating holes are for dummies, and you're already > past that stage, > because you are here:-) I would advise people to be careful when doing this, especially with the injected kits.  Some of these kits are designed so everything has to be "the way it is" so it all fits together.  For example, on an off topic bipe I built, I thought I would be "smart" and sand the fuselage mating surfaces ala vacs to get less of a seam.  Well, I may have had less of a seam on the fuselage, but now the lower wing - with integral fuselage piece - now had horrid gaps.  I have found that one company in particular is this way - ICM. > PS. And don't listen to anybody saying you should give up 1/72 ;-) Indeed!  All others are scale-wannabee's. ;-) Matt Bittner ________________________________________ Get your email at http://www.prontomail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 18:58:13 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: Marcio: >Michael, I've got a Revell Fokker DVII and plan to buy some more for my >Jasta 18 project (I've already told you something about this). I'll >paint >the first one I bought as Rudolph Berthold's plane, as the >instructions >say (to be honest, I see little fun in Göring's plane - I >like colorful >things). I see now why you prefer German stuff then:). >It's good to hear that lozenge can be done. Defintely. I enjoyed painting my own lozenge although I don't think I'd do it again. I don't know but does Berthold's scheme have lozenge on the underside? >Speaking seriously now, I was wondering how I'd make them >[seams]>disappear. Glue the fuselage halves together. There will be a seam line. Put small amounts of filler (Squadron White or whatever) in the seam line. Let it dry overnight (the instructions say 30 minutes but it's best to be careful and wait). Gently sand away the bumps of filler starting with 350 grit and progressing to 400, 600 etc. to get a smooth seamless surface. Try not to destroy the detail on the kit near to the parts you are sanding. Once you have finished, clean it up with water to remove the dirt and dust. Give it a coat of paint. If the seam is still visible, you need more filler. Hopefully it will be a very fine, small crack - you can use typewriter correction fluid. Use small amounts. That stuff dries quickly and you can probably sand it within an hour provided you haven't put it on too thick. After sanding, clean up and paint again. >Thanks, I'll discover how much it [airbrush & air compressor]costs here. It's expensive. Best to make sure you like doing kits then spend after a while. >"Another suggestion about puttying is a method of avoiding it. >You will need this technique when you do your first vacuform too." > >What? Never mind. Just build the Revell D.VII and don't worry about vac kits. >I've already read about rigging techniques in the sites you all have on > >the web, but I think I'll have to wait till finding someone who can >give >me a practical lesson :-)))) Everything you learned you taught yourself. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 19:01:50 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: >From: "Muth and Zulick" > I use both. I like the enamels for gun metal and some fiddly-bits. >I >also use them if I happen to like the color. I agree. They go on much smoother than acrylics, which tend to build up. >They seems to air brush a little easier than arcylics, That's because as the enamel paint is passing through the airbrush tip, it is almost "cleaning" it as it goes through. Build up from acrylics happens much quicker because the stuff dries so much quicker. >but the cleanup [for enamels] is daunting. in terms of smell and toxicity - absolutely. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 15:06:49 EDT From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Modeling for dummies, Part ! Message-ID: --part1_f2.a2e9bc0.282c40c9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Marcio, do not fear rigging, although, for a beginner it might seem daunting, it's easy, at least the way many of us do it. Forget stretched sprue, it's for space aliens like Hustad who have more than human abilities. Also forget wire, at least until you've done quite a few kits, measuring it and keeping it straight might discourage the beginning modeler permanently, and small gauge wire is hard to get, even in the States. Monofilament thread, however, is cheap, and easy to find, and the Dai-Riki 'fishing' line is available from Roll Models, who I think you have used before. All you need are some small drills (most 1/72 modelers use #80 or #79 drills) and some CA glue, and some diagrams or pictures showing rigging. For best results, do not drill into struts, but into the wing or fuselage NEXT to the strut (That's usually where it goes anyway and 1/72 struts are not very sturdy without holes) The rest of the process is described in the list files. Rigging will make your kits look much better, and the results will make even a mediocre kit look like a masterwork. Merrill --part1_f2.a2e9bc0.282c40c9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Marcio, do not fear rigging, although, for a beginner it might seem daunting,
it's easy, at least the way many of us do it. Forget stretched sprue, it's
for space aliens like Hustad who have more than human abilities. Also forget
wire, at least until you've done quite a few kits, measuring it and keeping
it straight might discourage the beginning modeler permanently, and small
gauge wire is hard to get, even in the States. Monofilament thread, however,
is cheap, and easy to find, and the Dai-Riki 'fishing' line is available from
Roll Models, who I think you have used before. All you need are some small
drills (most 1/72 modelers use #80 or #79 drills) and some CA glue, and some
diagrams or pictures showing rigging. For best results, do not drill into
struts, but into the wing or fuselage NEXT to the strut (That's usually where
it goes anyway and  1/72 struts are not very sturdy without holes) The rest
of the process is described in the list files. Rigging will make your kits
look much better, and the results will make even a mediocre kit look like a
masterwork.
Merrill --part1_f2.a2e9bc0.282c40c9_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 15:11:51 -0400 From: "Muth and Zulick" To: Subject: Re: Qn about wash Message-ID: <00e201c0d985$134460e0$0100005a@ptd.net> > > Hullo, > This is the first time I am trying use oil paint wash for the dirtying > effect. Do I apply it by airbrush, or with a brush? How do I prevent the > turpentine from dissolving the (enamel) paint? > Can I switch to a cheap turpentine? > thanks > SSH So far, I've only used a brush. I have been using an acrylic wash of watered down black over silver enamel for a nice, dirty looking engine. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 15:15:04 EDT From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Qn about wash Message-ID: <49.b37deb7.282c42b8@aol.com> --part1_49.b37deb7.282c42b8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Acrylic Washes are very tricky, as due to the drying properties of acrylic they tend to leave a dark "ring" around the edge, this is perfect for some weathering, but looks funny for some others.FWIW Merrill --part1_49.b37deb7.282c42b8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Acrylic Washes are very tricky, as due to the drying properties of acrylic
they tend to leave a dark "ring" around the edge, this is perfect for some
weathering, but looks funny for some others.FWIW
Merrill --part1_49.b37deb7.282c42b8_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: 10 May 2001 12:16:10 -0700 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: <20010510191610.23884.cpmta@c012.sfo.cp.net> On Thu, 10 May 2001, "Michael Kendix" wrote: Regarding clean up, I find my brushes get ruined more quickly using acrylics than enamels; probably because enamels dry slower. Any tipes on revining my old acrylic-ruined brushes would be appreciated. > > Michael > All acrilic paint is far more abusive to brushes than oil based paint and I think it goes beyond drying time. I believe it is generaly reccomended that you use only synthetic brushes when using any acrilic paint I remember once, when I was much younger, my dad caught me using one of his large sable watercolor brushes with acrilic paint, he was EXTRMELY angry. But he was right to be mad - the brush was just about ruined and it cost a fortune. Mark Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 21:21:25 +0200 From: "Paul E. Thompson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Modelling for Dummies part 1 Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20010510211553.00aecbb0@pop.xs4all.nl> >And a nice easy starter is a Spad not a Fokker (more smileys) ...right up unto the point where you start to rig it, then the smileys all run away. Paul. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 10:31:38 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Tom's dry transfers and lettering Message-ID: <200105101234656.SM02380@[204.244.50.35]> > This actually got started a year or so ago. I think either Bob Pearson or > Dave Zulis (is he still on the list???) was holding some money in escrow for > purchase of an Alps. My guess is we don't enough cash yet. Is my memory > correct on this ? > Mike Muth Steve Perry has a listees bank account for donation to allow Chris and I to get an Alps. We plan to market anything we have profiled at Internet Modeler in whatever scale the buyer wants. Unfortunately real life has intruded on these plans for the last year, but the money is safe until needed Bob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 21:32:11 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: Qn about wash Message-ID: To use oils for washs shouldn't be a problem. As far as I know, real turpentine does not dissolve the enamel paint. You should seal the enamel paint with one or two coats of clear varnish. I use oil washes for special weathering effects only, such as oil stains on cowlings or machine/engine parts. I do always apply washes with a brush because it must flow into the structure of the models surface which is does not if you apply it by airbrush. I would not use cheap turpentine because it is no real turpentine but only a substitute. At least the stuff one can buy here in Luxembourg is. But it pays to use real turpentine for oils. happy modeling Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Sanjeev > Hirve > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 5:09 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Qn about wash > > > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand > this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. > > ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0D962.1A0A55E2 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > > Hullo, > This is the first time I am trying use oil paint wash for the dirtying > effect. Do I apply it by airbrush, or with a brush? How do I prevent the > turpentine from dissolving the (enamel) paint? > Can I switch to a cheap turpentine? > thanks > SSH > > ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0D962.1A0A55E2 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > charset=3Diso-8859-1"> > 5.5.2448.0"> > Qn about wash > > > >

Hullo, >
  This is the first time I am trying use oil = > paint wash for the dirtying effect.  Do I apply it by airbrush, or = > with a brush?  How do I prevent the turpentine from dissolving the = > (enamel) paint?

> >

Can I switch to a cheap turpentine? >
thanks >
SSH >

> > > > ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0D962.1A0A55E2-- > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 19:36:11 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Modeling for dummies, Part ! Message-ID: >From: MAnde72343@aol.com > >Marcio, do not fear rigging, although, for a beginner it might seem > >daunting, it's easy, at least the way many of us do it. Forget stretched >sprue, it's for space aliens like Hustad who have more than human >abilities. So far I'm in complete agreement:). >Also forget wire, at least until you've done quite a few kits, measuring it >and keeping it straight might discourage the >beginning modeler >permanently, and small gauge wire is hard to get, >even in the States. Technically, using stiff wire is far easier than fishing line. You need a pair of cutters - I have a $4 little thing from the cheapo bin at the hardware store, water soluble white glue (Elmers), a pair of dividers to measure how much you need and a tiny swab and dish of water to get the excess glue off when you're done. .005 inch wire is readily available from Small Parts Inc. http://www.smallparts.com I phone up their 800 number, give them my credit card number and the UPS man brings it within about 4 days. >Monofilament thread, however, is cheap, and easy to find, and the Dai-Riki >'fishing' line is available from Roll Models, All true. >who I think you have used before. All you need are some small >drills (most 1/72 modelers use #80 or #79 drills) and some CA glue, and again true but I broke loads of #80 bits trying this and made messes with CA that were difficult to clean up. No drilling is required with straight wire. I just glue it to whatever place it supposed to be. You just have to have patience cutting it down to size. I agree that is tedious but there's no risk of screwing up due to a CA mess. >Rigging will make your kits look much better, and the results will make > >even a mediocre kit look like a masterwork. Absolutely correct:). Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 15:52:42 EDT From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Modeling for dummies, Part ! Message-ID: <59.aeecc96.282c4b8a@aol.com> --part1_59.aeecc96.282c4b8a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mike, I knew i was throwing a 'bomb' at the wire guys, but I was not trying to start a war. My experiences with wire, were all disasters. How anyone can get a set of divider points exactly into the spaces needed in 1/72 defies explanation, my eyes are simply not calibrated well enough. Wire either kinks, or is too long or too short, and it took me ten feet of waste to rig one single bay airplane, expensive, and then some, and a couple of the lines came out 'bowed', anyway. I have drilled the holes, run the thread, and CA'd the holes on a Pfalz DXII in under two hours, with thread, if I'd tried wire, I'd still be trying to finish the kit, five years later, (and the wire would have been way out of scale) Apply the CA with a pin, or a 'micro' tip, a very small drop is all that's needed. --part1_59.aeecc96.282c4b8a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mike, I knew i was throwing a 'bomb' at the wire guys, but I was not trying
to start a war. My experiences with wire, were all disasters. How anyone can
get a set of divider points exactly into the spaces needed in 1/72 defies
explanation, my eyes are simply not calibrated well enough. Wire either
kinks, or is too long or too short, and it took me ten feet of waste to rig
one single bay airplane, expensive, and then some, and a couple of the lines
came out 'bowed', anyway. I have drilled the holes, run the thread, and CA'd
the holes on a Pfalz DXII in under two hours, with thread, if I'd tried wire,
I'd still be trying to finish the kit, five years later, (and the wire would
have been way out of scale) Apply the CA with a pin, or a 'micro' tip, a very
small drop is all that's needed. --part1_59.aeecc96.282c4b8a_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 20:01:26 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Qn about wash Message-ID: > This is the first time I am trying use oil paint wash for the >dirtying >effect. Do I apply it by airbrush, or with a brush? How do I >prevent the >turpentine from dissolving the (enamel) paint? >Can I switch to a cheap turpentine? Sanjeev: I use a mixture of oil paint and Turpenoid. Turpenoid is an almost-odourless turpentine substitute available from Pearl art store in Federal Plaza on the Rockville Pike, opposite Hobbycraft. pearl also has loads of oil paints. Turpenoid is not expensive and you will not need that much anyway. I use an old Testors paint bottle. use tiny amount of oil paint with the Turpenoid. I apply it with a brush and it takes a while to dry so you can mop up any excess. Use Turpenoid to mop it up. I use these little eye make-up applicators - they have little sponges on either end and come in a plastic pack - CVS has them. I know Gaston has a lot of experience with figure painting and oil wash but I have found that enamel paints get dissolved by Turpenoid so you need to cover the paint with a clear acrylic like Future. Once you've done that, if you want to apply the wash on a flat base (Future is gloss), just spray on some Testors or Pollyscale clear flat (cover up clear parts first though). let it dry for a bit then do the oil wash. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3359 **********************