WWI Digest 3355 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Pegasus Spad 12 was RE: heat/smash turtledeck effect by Crawford Neil 2) Re: KIts From Hell... by "DAVID BURKE" 3) Re: KIts From Hell... by "DAVID BURKE" 4) Re: More Caudron Answers by John_Impenna@hyperion.com 5) RE: AJP kits (was: the Golden Age of OT modeling) by Crawford Neil 6) RE: Hotchkiss 37mm cannon by Crawford Neil 7) RE: St. Harry's Book by Crawford Neil 8) ALPS Decals by John & Allison Cyganowski 9) dry transfers and lettering by "TOM PLESHA" 10) =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20cockpit=20=A0floor=20sizing?= by VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com 11) Re: St. Harry's Book by VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com 12) Great Work by MAnde72343@aol.com 13) Re: dry transfers and lettering by "Lance Krieg" 14) Re: St. Harry's Book by "Bob Pearson" 15) Re: dry transfers and lettering by "TOM PLESHA" 16) Re: dry transfers and lettering by Scottfking@aol.com 17) Re: cockpit =?iso-8859-1?Q?=A0floor?= sizing by "Lee J. Mensinger" 18) Koster Aero by John_Impenna@hyperion.com 19) U-1 kits measurements by "Hans Trauner" 20) Model Criticism was (Re: KIts From Hell...) by Karen Rychlewski 21) Model Criticism was (Re: KIts From Hell...) by Karen Rychlewski 22) RE: Model Criticism was (Re: KIts From Hell...) by "dfernet0" 23) RE: U-1 kits measurements by "dfernet0" 24) Re: Re: dry transfers and lettering by "Ray Boorman" 25) Kits from Heck? by MAnde72343@aol.com 26) APMA site update & meeting by Shane & Lorna Jenkins ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:51:23 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Pegasus Spad 12 was RE: heat/smash turtledeck effect Message-ID: I'll be using a set of Revell Spad 13 wings left over from my Spad 16 ( I used the radiator). I've been looking at them daily for the past week, it's all I have time to do, right now I work, then work overtime, then garden all evening, sleep, and then do it again. My plan of action is to reduce the chord by 1.5mm, I think I might take out a slice a little in from the leading edge, so as to preserve the profile. To get the struts in the right place I will remove about 6mm (IIRC) from the centre-section, the same on the lower wings, but a little more difficult because I will have to take out a rib. The lower wings are correct in chord. You may wonder why I do this, and it's just for the sake of the nice rib detail on the Revell Spad, the pegasus detail is just raised lines, it's OK but nowhere near as nice as Revells old wings. Also the Pegasus lower wing is a tad short. /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar] > Sent: den 8 maj 2001 19:43 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE: Pegasus Spad 12 was RE: heat/smash turtledeck effect > > > Neil wrote: > > I'm not going to use the wings anyway. In fact I might use > them to correct > > an Airfix Spad 7, they are much better than Airfix wings > > Why not using Rosemont vac wing blanks? If you use that for > the airfix Type > VII you'll end with a wingless Spad XII. > > > but by then > > maybe Tamiya will have released their Spad VII (please) :-) > > Ahhh, dreamer! > D. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:40:24 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: KIts From Hell... Message-ID: <006201c0d897$3b13f980$6ff91c3f@oemcomputer> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael and Sharon Alvarado" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 6:56 PM Subject: Re: KIts From Hell... > Depending on the Classic Airframe kit your doing making a sows ear from a sows > ear is quite easy. Even the best of the CA kits require much fitting, sanding , > filling, scratch building, cursing etc. So don't feel bad. I just finished a > BF2C-1 and it was an experience from hell but the finished product looks pretty > good from the hobby shop window where it is displayed. Stick in there. > > Alvie Hey Alvie, That was one of the ones I attempted and it hass found its way into many boxes. Sod the lot, I'm going back to trying to do Rudi Stark's A/C. BTW, I'm sure there's folks that might be interested in resin OAW cowl panels for a 1/48 D.VII, yes? DB ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:47:03 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: KIts From Hell... Message-ID: <006401c0d897$3ce0ca40$6ff91c3f@oemcomputer> > You know, I've read a lot of criticism about CA and Blue whatever, but I've bought almost every one, mainly because I liked the aircraft and wanted to do the model. I knew I wasn't getting a "Tamigawa" and that it would take a bit of work . . . and Milliput. Well Mike, y'see I feel the same way. That's what bums me out about it. As for referring to Eric's Gotha G.III, mine should be en route, and there is NO similarity between a CSM kit and a CA kit. First, I have FINISHED a CSM kit. Second, it is designed to be put together, where I am more and more convinced that CA kits are more collector-oriented. DB ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 11:09:14 -0400 From: John_Impenna@hyperion.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: More Caudron Answers Message-ID: Andrei wrote>>Actually, yes I am. But bear in mind that they require some some work even after they're etched....'cleaning up' with a file and then laminating with styrene in order to get the proper weight and shape; the edges need filling with CA, also, due to the action of the acid on the rather thick metal. If you're really interested, just give me some time to contact the supplier to be certain the material is readily available.<< Andrei, Count me in, also!! Is that photo-etch kit still available? I looked in the las couple of FSM's and couldn't find a listing. TIA Regards, John ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 16:44:02 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: AJP kits (was: the Golden Age of OT modeling) Message-ID: Paul, we would very much like to see photos if at all possible. /Neil > > >From: "Paul E. Thompson" > >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org > >To: Multiple recipients of list > >Subject: Re: AJP kits (was: the Golden Age of OT modeling) > >Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 00:36:41 -0400 (EDT) > > > >Jim, and anyone seriously contemplating an AJP kit, > > > > > > I finished an AJP Spad VII a week or so ago. I'd be > interested in anyone > >elses take if you do any AJP kit. It was probably the least > rewarding one > >I've ever built, although a lot of that was due to my > inability to form > >convincing double curves in brass (hey, my fault - if you > don't like brass, > >don't buy a brass kit, heh?). I think the idea has a lot of > potential, but > >beware a few unforgiving foldy bits, and what may be a > couple of design > >errors - but no show-stoppers. If you're forwarned and > replace or bulk out > >the 2D struts, and bits in the cockpit, no doubt an > excellent result can be > >achieved. (Not by the likes of me, though). Like the Eduard > strip-downs, > >the nature of these beasts suits them to diorama work where > you need to > >show a lot of internal structure. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 17:20:27 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Hotchkiss 37mm cannon Message-ID: About the Hotchkiss, what are you planning to mount it on? A Voisin perhaps, that would be nice. I made a cannon-butt for my Spad XII, stuck it in, and it disappeared. There's no way anyone will ever see it, I'm going to take a photo with the top off, just to prove it's there, and even then it might not be visible. So if you're doing a Spad 12, then don't bother! /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: Dennis Ugulano [mailto:Uggies@compuserve.com] > Sent: den 9 maj 2001 02:41 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE: Hotchkiss 37mm cannon > > > Neil, > > Thank you. I have it in my hot little hand as we speak. > > Dennis > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 17:32:48 +0200 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: St. Harry's Book Message-ID: Incidentally, as far as I know, it is only in paperback. And the cover falls off. /Neil > > > Greetings, > > > > This question may be heresy, but someone needs to be > heretical in EtH's > > absence. I found a paperback copy of _Scale Model Aircraft > in Plastic > Card_ > > available from an online bookseller for US$6.00. The > trouble is, it's in > > New Zealand, and shipping would be another $5.38. Question > -- is it worth > > $11.38? > > > > TIA, > > > > Ken Zelnick > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 18:09:00 -0400 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: ALPS Decals Message-ID: <01C0D87F.0F72C580.janah@worldnet.att.net> Yes I had ALPS decals made for our Halberstadt D.III kit because I was tired of dealing with Microscale. They are very nice. I think Peter Fedders used them on his kit. Peter, did you use setting solution for these? Regards, John Cyg. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 12:08:52 -0400 From: "TOM PLESHA" To: Subject: dry transfers and lettering Message-ID: <003a01c0d8a2$57e99000$e6734c0c@tom> Hi Everyone- A couple of questions: Has anyone used the dry transfers sold in the model RR sections of the hobby shops. I need tiny lettering for things like: Lift here, etc. for 1/48 scale. Any suggestions about tiny lettering, I have yet to find decals with the correct size, type, etc. and I freehand brush paint terribly! Thanks Tom ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:15:47 EDT From: VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20cockpit=20=A0floor=20sizing?= Message-ID: In a message dated 5/9/2001 3:13:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time, RadspadMike@netscape.net writes: << Jon, the "real world" is trying to tell you that you are not working in the proper scale. ;-) Mike K. >> Hey Mike, the proper scale is the one that I can find the kit in, no matter what scale it is! If it only comes in 1/72 well than that's the scale I'm building it. Want to see my RC 1/6 scale Fokker D.Vll? Of course it's stand off scale as I'm not putting all that much work into something that's at the mercy of the God of Wind, try a cross wind landing sometime with one of these Bi-winged babies, you will learn cross control using rudder and ailerons real fast or die. You are landing almost sideways (crabing) until the moment before touchdown when you bring the nose around inline with the runway. Sure does make a guys hair stand on end doing it. Best regards, Jon ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:17:21 EDT From: VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: St. Harry's Book Message-ID: <73.d856d32.282ad5a1@aol.com> In a message dated 5/9/2001 7:38:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, KZELNIC@entergy.com writes: << This question may be heresy, but someone needs to be heretical in EtH's absence. I found a paperback copy of _Scale Model Aircraft in Plastic Card_ available from an online bookseller for US$6.00. The trouble is, it's in New Zealand, and shipping would be another $5.38. Question -- is it worth $11.38? >> HELL YES!!!!! Best regards, Jon ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:36:54 EDT From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Great Work Message-ID: <104.31ec855.282ada36@aol.com> --part1_104.31ec855.282ada36_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hyperscale has photos of a scratchbuilt 1/16 Hellcat, I know it's ot, but it's a "you gotta see this". There are several amazing builders in this group, but even they need to look at preposterously good stuff, to keep them working on it. Merrill --part1_104.31ec855.282ada36_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hyperscale has photos of a scratchbuilt 1/16 Hellcat, I know it's ot, but
it's a "you gotta see this". There are several amazing builders in this
group, but even they need to look at preposterously good stuff, to keep them
working on it.
Merrill --part1_104.31ec855.282ada36_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 12:40:45 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: dry transfers and lettering Message-ID: Tom asks: "Has anyone used the dry transfers sold in the model RR sections of the hobby shops." Yes indeed, but I prefer the waterslide variety, appplied one letter at a time; it's easier to control. Spend twenty minutes looking at boxcar stencils and you'll even find entire words, like "lift" "petrol(eum)" in the appropriate scale, color and typeface. I use decals so much I had more hours in decalling an FE2 than in rigging it. Consult the Americal/Gryphon offerings, though, and things like "Palmer Cord Aero Tyre 700x200" make the sheets awfully tempting. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 10:42:37 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: St. Harry's Book Message-ID: <200105091241359.SM01092@[204.244.50.26]> Its worth it even if the price is $83.11 Bob ---------- >From: "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: St. Harry's Book >Date: Wed, May 9, 2001, 4:39 am > > Greetings, > > This question may be heresy, but someone needs to be heretical in EtH's > absence. I found a paperback copy of _Scale Model Aircraft in Plastic Card_ > available from an online bookseller for US$6.00. The trouble is, it's in > New Zealand, and shipping would be another $5.38. Question -- is it worth > $11.38? > > TIA, > > Ken Zelnick > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 14:02:58 -0400 From: "TOM PLESHA" To: Subject: Re: dry transfers and lettering Message-ID: <001301c0d8b2$486daf20$1d404c0c@tom> Thanks Lance- The only sheets I've seen are the dry transfers. I purchased a couple of sheets that have the alphabet and numbers in various sizes. I'll look for the other wet types. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lance Krieg" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 1:45 PM Subject: Re: dry transfers and lettering > Tom asks: > > "Has anyone used the dry transfers sold in the model RR sections of the hobby shops." > > Yes indeed, but I prefer the waterslide variety, appplied one letter at a time; it's easier to control. > > Spend twenty minutes looking at boxcar stencils and you'll even find entire words, like "lift" "petrol(eum)" in the appropriate scale, color and typeface. > > I use decals so much I had more hours in decalling an FE2 than in rigging it. > > Consult the Americal/Gryphon offerings, though, and things like "Palmer Cord Aero Tyre 700x200" make the sheets awfully tempting. > > Lance > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 14:02:48 EDT From: Scottfking@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: dry transfers and lettering Message-ID: <13.156ae2f3.282ae048@aol.com> In a message dated 5/9/01 11:09:39 AM US Eastern Standard Time, APPMAN@worldnet.att.net writes: << Has anyone used the dry transfers sold in the model RR sections of the hobby shops. >> Hi Tom, I used Letraset dry transfers on my Fokker EIII for the aircraft number "A6". No problem using them, and there was a large selection of fonts and styles available. I think they are pretty much the same as the ones found in model RR shops. Skippy (Scott) King ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 13:10:51 -0500 From: "Lee J. Mensinger" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: cockpit =?iso-8859-1?Q?=A0floor?= sizing Message-ID: <3AF9882B.9A26C37D@x25.net> That can be great fun in a Piper Cub or almost any other real light airplane. Extra fast with a 180 knot landing speed makes it a lot easier but still can be scary. My top HP for very much flying was only a little past 750, a little experience with 1200. I have rode in T-33s and the TF-102 which seemed to be a bit forgiving actually. Flew fine and landed nice. My uncle's surplus Jenny, that he got in 1928 was a big handful in almost any crosswind or gustiness. I think its most favorable feature was flying at about 18 mph. Didn't do much for landing in a 20 mph headwind. The runway was in our orchard and it was a single lane. Landed up hill and took off down.. The Bleriot that Roger Freman flies is a Nasty thingie. Calm and dry then it can fly. Windy and wet, hasn't done it yet. It breaks easily and with little cause other than the design. The lightness of the RC models makes rhe pilot cost conscious real fast. That is part of the reason I stopped doing it. Lee M. VMA324Vagabonds@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 5/9/2001 3:13:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > RadspadMike@netscape.net writes: > > << Jon, the "real world" is trying to tell you that you are not working in > the proper scale. ;-) > > Mike K. >> > Hey Mike, the proper scale is the one that I can find the kit in, no matter > what scale it is! If it only comes in 1/72 well than that's the scale I'm > building it. Want to see my RC 1/6 scale Fokker D.Vll? Of course it's stand > off scale as I'm not putting all that much work into something that's at the > mercy of the God of Wind, try a cross wind landing sometime with one of these > Bi-winged babies, you will learn cross control using rudder and ailerons real > fast or die. You are landing almost sideways (crabing) until the moment > before touchdown when you bring the nose around inline with the runway. Sure > does make a guys hair stand on end doing it. > > Best regards, > Jon ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 14:11:48 -0400 From: John_Impenna@hyperion.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Koster Aero Message-ID: Hi Folks, Has anyone ordered from them recently? I have sent a couple of emails and received no reply. TIA for any info. Regards, John ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 20:19:16 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: U-1 kits measurements Message-ID: <006701c0d8b4$8ef7eee0$24ab72d4@FRITZweb> Ladies and Gentlemen, I have bee asked how the U-1 Avrosnki compares with drawings. I am not the great AVRO expert and all I could do it to throw the kit parts on the Datafile. a) the 1/72 scale plan seems to be 100,05 % of 1/72 b) Upper wing is spot on c) also the lower wings d) ribs are a little bit heavy on the upper side e) but nearly flat undersides f) fuselage does have problems. It's not high enough and there are proportional problem. If you take cockpits as a fix, the fuselage up to the tail is too short for 6 ( in word six) mm. If you take the complelte lenght incl. cowling, than only 1 mm is missing. e) Cowl dia is o.k. f) depth of fuselage seems to be ok, but I did not break the parts fom the runner g) wheels are to be replaced, to thick h) prop dia is a too large, but may be in the cold russian air you need larger props i) tail is ok, but rudder needs a little reshaping, it has to be rounder j)seats and pilots are Airfix style 1962 k) I do have any clue if struts are early TOKO style or not. I do not intend to build it within the next days ( weeks? Month? Years? Century? ) Hans ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 14:17:42 -0400 From: Karen Rychlewski To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Model Criticism was (Re: KIts From Hell...) Message-ID: <3AF989C7.80B5F27@earthlink.net> Mike

You wrote: 

You know, I've read a lot of criticism about CA and Blue whatever, but I've bought almost every
one, mainly because I liked the aircraft and wanted to do the model.  I knew I wasn't getting a
"Tamigawa" and that it would take a bit of work . . . and Milliput.  My results aren't anything
I would want to post for everyone to see, but, with some reservations, they look decent.  The
theorem: perfect kit equals perfect model, doesn't work for me. Which is why I'm scared to start
Eric's Gotha. In each kit I try to use one or more recently "learned" techniques to make it
better than earlier attempts. That's where this List comes in. Now, I'm much more comfortable
thinking I know what I'm doing or is it just "ignorance is bliss? ;-)


Never be intimidated by a kit...rogue elephants, maybe; but a model kit? No way! There is no such thing as a "perfect kit"--if there were, the challenge would be to modify it or convert it into something a little bit different. I've built Blue *** and Glencoe, Sierra and Classic (not CA, but the German 'Classic' vacuforms); and I spend about the same amount of time and effort on any of them. The key, as you say, is if you want to do that particular aircraft. Many, many moons ago, I built my very first vacuform kit: an Airframe Etrich Taube--I figured that if I could do that one, I could do any of them. And wonder of wonders, I've never been hesitant to start another kit. 

In each kit I try to use one or more recently "learned" techniques to make it 
   better than earlier attempts. That's where this List comes in. Now, I'm much more comfortable thinking I know 
   what I'm doing or is it just "ignorance is bliss? ;-)


I don't know if I'd pick Eric's Gotha as a very first resin kit, but if you've built at least one resin, you've got enough skill to go for the Gotha. Skills don't improve if you don't push yourself at least  a little bit. Ignorance is NOT bliss: Ask, and the list will give unto you 

My results aren't anything I would want to post for everyone to 
   see, but, with some reservations, they look decent.


And if they look decent, and they make you happy, and they make you want to do another one, what's the problem?  One thing I'd like to suggest to the List (Allan and Matt: listen up) is the creation of a 'critique gallery' where people could post their pictures and receive constructive criticism from listees--off list, if you like. Modelers could describe what they did, how they did it, flaws they perceive, etc. and others could respond with suggestions for improvement. Now I know that we are all free right now to do this to any picture posted, but most people are probably hesitant to tell someone else how and why a model is deficient. A photo posted to a specifically 'critique' spot says "Hey, guys, give me some help; tell me what's wrong; tell me how to fix it; help me get better; I'm not gonna get mad and sulk; don't make me wait until a judge tells me I have a bad seam line or the cowl's the wrong color." The List has several purposes: one of which is education--and god knows, when I log on and there are 68 messages waiting for me, I'm gonna learn something I didn't know! Sure, we're all proud and pleased to send a photo to the gallery and get all kind of compliments--the ego must be stroked--but if all we EVER get are compliments, we're never going to improve. I'd be willing to get the ball rolling by submitting that Taube I mentioned to a 'critique' gallery and let all of you tell [a much younger] me (and other neophyte vacuform modelers) what's wrong with it.

How 'bout it?

Dame Karen
 
  ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 14:34:48 -0400 From: Karen Rychlewski To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Model Criticism was (Re: KIts From Hell...) Message-ID: <3AF98DC8.9CC535A1@earthlink.net> OOPS! sorry about the previous version... Mike You wrote: > You know, I've read a lot of criticism about CA and Blue whatever, but I've bought almost every > one, mainly because I liked the aircraft and wanted to do the model. I knew I wasn't getting a > "Tamigawa" and that it would take a bit of work . . . and Milliput. My results aren't anything > I would want to post for everyone to see, but, with some reservations, they look decent. The > theorem: perfect kit equals perfect model, doesn't work for me. Which is why I'm scared to start > Eric's Gotha. In each kit I try to use one or more recently "learned" techniques to make it > better than earlier attempts. That's where this List comes in. Now, I'm much more comfortable > thinking I know what I'm doing or is it just "ignorance is bliss? ;-) > > Never be intimidated by a kit...rogue elephants, maybe; but a model kit? No way! There is no such thing as a "perfect kit"--if there were, the challenge would be to modify it or convert it into something a little bit different. I've built Blue *** and Glencoe, Sierra and Classic (not CA, but the German 'Classic' vacuforms); and I spend about the same amount of time and effort on any of them. The key, as you say, is if you want to do that particular aircraft. Many, many moons ago, I built my very first vacuform kit: an Airframe Etrich Taube--I figured that if I could do that one, I could do any of them. And wonder of wonders, I've never been hesitant to start another kit. > In each kit I try to use one or more recently "learned" techniques to make it > better than earlier attempts. That's where this List comes in. Now, I'm much more comfortable thinking I know > what I'm doing or is it just "ignorance is bliss? ;-) > I don't know if I'd pick Eric's Gotha as a very first resin kit, but if you've built at least one resin, you've got enough skill to go for the Gotha. Skills don't improve if you don't push yourself at least a little bit. Ignorance is NOT bliss: Ask, and the list will give unto you > My results aren't anything I would want to post for everyone to > see, but, with some reservations, they look decent. > And if they look decent, and they make you happy, and they make you want to do another one, what's the problem? One thing I'd like to suggest to the List (Allan and Matt: listen up) is the creation of a 'critique gallery' where people could post their pictures and receive constructive criticism from listees--off list, if you like. Modelers could describe what they did, how they did it, flaws they perceive, etc. and others could respond with suggestions for improvement. Now I know that we are all free right now to do this to any picture posted, but most people are probably hesitant to tell someone else how and why a model is deficient. A photo posted to a specifically 'critique' spot says "Hey, guys, give me some help; tell me what's wrong; tell me how to fix it; help me get better; I'm not gonna get mad and sulk; don't make me wait until a judge tells me I have a bad seam line or the cowl's the wrong color." The List has several purposes: one of which is education--and god knows, when I log on and there are 68 messages waiting for me, I'm gonna learn something I didn't know! Sure, we're all proud and pleased to send a photo to the gallery and get all kind of compliments--the ego must be stroked--but if all we EVER get are compliments, we're never going to improve. I'd be willing to get the ball rolling by submitting that Taube I mentioned to a 'critique' gallery and let all of you tell [a much younger] me (and other neophyte vacuform modelers) what's wrong with it. How 'bout it? Dame Karen ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:55:24 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Model Criticism was (Re: KIts From Hell...) Message-ID: <002b01c0d8b9$9ade8e80$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> > I'd be willing to get the ball rolling by submitting that Taube > I mentioned to a 'critique' gallery and let all of you tell [a much > younger] me (and other neophyte vacuform modelers) what's wrong with it. > > How 'bout it? Gee Karen, every one of your models -I guess that even the worst of them- is a critic statement against mine, wich I mercifully keep away from the cameras. And even so your models help me to raise the bar and do more efforts on my workbench! I write words of praise just when I feel them, not for just a complimentary reason. If I see any flaw on a model done by others, I rather keep silent (now all those whose models I didn't praised are hating me) but even so I usually learn from another's models as I'm a very slow builder and learn a lot with each new project I have. The learning curve is sometimes so steep that I completely abandon some of my projects! Since I joined the list I learned to make thin fuselages, scale instrument faces, detail engines, carve balsa masters, make alignment jigs (thanks Lance!) and a lot of things more. Of course I do some things better than others, since I still feel intimidated to sand tyres and keep 'em round, paint small pieces without coating in a blob of paint and bend PE parts in precise angles (not to mention those horrid spoked wheels). D. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 16:14:42 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: U-1 kits measurements Message-ID: <009f01c0d8bc$4d408860$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hans wrote: > f) fuselage does have problems. It's not high enough and there are > proportional problem. If you take cockpits as a fix, the fuselage up to the > tail is too short for 6 ( in word six) mm. > If you take the complelte lenght incl. cowling, than only 1 mm is missing. > e) Cowl dia is o.k. > f) depth of fuselage seems to be ok, but I did not break the parts fom the > runner Well... seems like the avroski have some relation with the Airfix after all. At least, this have much better surface detail than the Airfix. > j)seats and pilots are Airfix style 1962 Funny, the best pilot figure I saw on a WW1 kit is from the Airfix Pup. The worst are from the Airfix RE8. Small small world. D. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 12:15:27 -0700 From: "Ray Boorman" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Re: dry transfers and lettering Message-ID: <74F169F03A445D115AF50005B80A9E19@Ray_B.prontomail.com> Microscale have oodles of Waterslide Numbers and letters that go on the numberboards of Diesels I think?. (I'm not a railway person so that stuff is all Greek to me). Anyway go to a large Railroad modeling store and pore through the decals used on Engines and erm the thingies they pull. You'll find loads of uses for them. Whilst you're there you can look at the brass wire for rigging and all the other little detail peices you might find other uses for. If its a good RR store you can oodle over detail on the brass engines too. In HO scale, close to 1/72 ;) Ray ---- Begin Original Message ---- From: "TOM PLESHA" Sent: Wed, 9 May 2001 14:04:23 -0400 (EDT) To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: dry transfers and lettering Thanks Lance- The only sheets  I've seen are the dry transfers.  I  purchased a couple of sheets that have the alphabet and numbers in various sizes. I'll look for the other wet types. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lance Krieg" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 1:45 PM Subject: Re: dry transfers and lettering > Tom asks: > > "Has anyone used the dry transfers sold in the model RR sections of the hobby shops." > > Yes indeed, but I prefer the waterslide variety, appplied one letter at a time; it's easier to control. > > Spend twenty minutes looking at boxcar stencils and you'll even find entire words, like "lift" "petrol(eum)" in the appropriate scale, color and typeface. > > I use decals so much I had more hours in decalling an FE2 than in rigging it. > > Consult the Americal/Gryphon offerings, though, and things like "Palmer Cord Aero Tyre 700x200" make the sheets awfully tempting. > > Lance > > ---- End Original Message ---- ________________________________________ Get your email at http://www.prontomail.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:37:42 EDT From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Kits from Heck? Message-ID: <18.c9179a5.282af686@aol.com> --part1_18.c9179a5.282af686_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When I started this 'thread' I had no intention to slam kits or manufacturers, and I try to resist the temptation, most of my frustrating experiences HAVE BEEN MY OWN FAULT. It's usually, you do something one way, and have a terrible time; then the DOH! moment hits, and you go "should have thought of that earlier" I was talking about problems that are mostly with the modeler, and how some kits seem to be 'cursed' to bring out the Bozo in me, at least. In fact, the better kits from the high end manufacturers are BORING to build, and because they are so good to begin with, I sweat bullets about painting, and that's normally my favorite part. I do wish short run manufacturers would put tabs and slots on parts, they don't have to be perfect, just something besides a 'butt' joint for strength, drilling all those holes for wire or plastic rod is a pain, and I always have to rework them to get the fit right Merrill. --part1_18.c9179a5.282af686_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When I started this 'thread' I had no intention to slam kits or
manufacturers, and I try to resist the temptation, most of my frustrating
experiences HAVE BEEN MY OWN FAULT. It's usually, you do something one way,
and have a terrible time; then the DOH! moment hits, and you go "should have
thought of that earlier" I was talking about problems that are mostly with
the modeler, and how some kits seem to be 'cursed' to bring out the Bozo in
me, at least. In fact, the better kits from the high end manufacturers are
BORING to build, and because they are so good to begin with, I sweat bullets
about painting, and that's normally my favorite part. I do wish short run
manufacturers would put tabs and slots on parts, they don't have to be
perfect, just something besides a 'butt' joint for strength, drilling all
those holes for wire or plastic rod is a pain, and I always have to rework
them to get the fit right
Merrill. --part1_18.c9179a5.282af686_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 05:47:09 +1000 From: Shane & Lorna Jenkins To: WW1 posts Subject: APMA site update & meeting Message-ID: <3AF99EBD.A664FEAE@tac.com.au> Hi all, The APMA site has been updated at long last. There's a stack of OT related stuff this time in the reference section plus some more member models. Also, we have the monthly meeting this Saturday, which will have a display on Revell kits. Anyone visiting or live in Sydney are welcome to attend. There are details on the site on how to get there. Regards, Shane APMA VP http://www.tac.com.au/~sljenkins/apma.htm Now PayPal enabled Having FUN making models ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3355 **********************