WWI Digest 3317 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Bumped !! by David Fleming 2) RE: WWI Modelers do not make mistrakes! by "Mark Shannon" 3) Re: New SPAD from Rosemont by "David Calhoun" 4) RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by "dfernet0" 5) RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by "dfernet0" 6) the spad A.2 by "dfernet0" 7) Rigging Question by "Lance Krieg" 8) Re: Rigging Question by MAnde72343@aol.com 9) RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by Mark Vaughan-Jackson 10) Re: Rigging Question by "Mark Shannon" 11) RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by "Paul E. Thompson" 12) RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by mflake@tarrantcounty.com (Flake, Marc) 13) Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by "Hans Trauner" 14) Re: Rigging Question by "Hans Trauner" 15) RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by "cameron rile" 16) RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by "Marcio Antonio Campos" 17) new images by Mark Miller 18) Nervous about resin kits by "Steven M.Perry" 19) Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by "Steven M.Perry" 20) British Observation Balloons by Mark Miller 21) RE: British Observation Balloons by "Gaston Graf" 22) Avro 504K (Dyak engined) by knut.erik.hagen@eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) 23) I really saw myself in this one... by "Marcio Antonio Campos" 24) Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by David Fleming 25) Off-Topic, Scotland and Brazil by "Marcio Antonio Campos" 26) RE: Des Moines contest by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 27) Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by Stephendigiacomo@aol.com 28) Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... by "Limon3" 29) Hans Trauner's indiscretion: (was: Things to remember or Mistakes - anyway) by Stephendigiacomo@aol.com 30) Passchendaele WAS: New SPAD from Rosemont by Shane Weier 31) Re: Passchendaele WAS: New SPAD from Rosemont by "Michael Kendix" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 15:55:38 +0100 From: David Fleming To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Bumped !! Message-ID: <3AE836E9.B91BD524@dial.pipex.com> Well, I'm back - did you miss me ? Thought it was too quiet to be this list !! Dave ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:28:35 -0500 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: RE: WWI Modelers do not make mistrakes! Message-ID: The biggest one I've made is following the paint and finish instructions in the kit. Other than that, folding brass parts the wrong way - so that they are a mirror of their proper form and position, pulling the 'wrong' thread while rigging, and ending up with a slack one I've just glued and loose one that wasn't tacked. Usually when three or four pieces come out of the same hole and the normally-closed tweezers don't clamp one of them. one I recently pulled was painting the lower wing of my Flashar/Hipple red-dragon D.V without looking at the photo again - so I put lavender where the green should be and vice-versa - three days lost to drying time and unnecessary error. and the classic, 'it's all finished let's have a look at it' pick up the model and drop it. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 12:29:17 -0700 From: "David Calhoun" To: Subject: Re: New SPAD from Rosemont Message-ID: <001e01c0ce87$30a06a20$85d33ccc@oemcomputer> Hi Len, That would be great if you could scan the parts & instructions showing that area. Please e-mail me them off list. Thanks, Dave C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Len Smith" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 10:12 PM Subject: Re: New SPAD from Rosemont > Dave, > > The front nacelle is moulded as hollow but empty, ie no seat, and the three > Colts pass through slits so that their rear ends are in the nacelle complete > with ammunition drums. If you would like scans of the relevant parts of > the instruction drawings let me know. > > Regards Len. > > lensmith@clara.net > http://home.clara.net/lensmith > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Calhoun" > To: "Multiple recipients of list" > Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 1:34 AM > Subject: Re: New SPAD from Rosemont > > > > Hi Len, > > How do they model the interior of the front nacelle? How are the colt > guns > > mounted, and are there ammo boxes, drums, or what? I am interested in > > scratchbuilding the G.1 nose in 1/48 using the Spin A.4 kit, but have only > > the side view photos in the FMP Russian book. > > Thanks, > > Dave Calhoun > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:54:22 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: <001f01c0ce71$8ba5d060$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> " Any more bloopers ?" Two more - Leaving a finished subassembly aside to avoid knocking it and later forget it and putting a book or something heavy over it. - Painting with a brush a wing, leaving no marks at all and then dropping the part on the carpet (wich hasn't been cleaned for years) - Dropping a tinlette over a hard floor. It usually pops off the lid and vomits almost all the enamel. Over your shoes. D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 14:02:18 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: <003f01c0ce72$a99546e0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> I wrote: > Two more and later added 3. That counts as a blooper, ain't it? D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 14:52:01 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: "ww1 list" Subject: the spad A.2 Message-ID: <004b01c0ce79$99cbaa40$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Have you seen this, right? http://www.swiftsite.com/rosemonthobby/rosea2.htm D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 12:56:05 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Rigging Question Message-ID: I'd like to pick the brains of the monofilament crowd, if I may: This is my approach: 1. Paint undersurfaces of both wings, and the upper surface of the lower wing. 2. Drill rigging hole completely through both wings. 3. Insert threads through top wing, securing with a knot and CA, which is pulled tightly into the hole. 4. Loose thread ends, dangling beneath the upper wing, are taped down to convenient points along the underside of the top wing to keep them out of the way. 5. The underside is masked off, both to protect it from the painting of the topside, as well as to contain the threads. 6. Damage and protruding knots are repaired or covered with appropriate "hardware" on the top surface of the upper wing. 7. Paint/rib tape top wing 8. Remove the mask from the underside of the top wing. 9. Assemble top wing to aircraft. 10. Release the threads, in small batches, and pull them through the bottom wing, CAing each and pulling the glue into the hole. 11. Leave a "pig tail" of 1 cm or so sticking out; this to be able to grab and re-glue in case any of the rigging gets knocked loose during the final stages of the build, including the addition and painting of "turnbuckles". 12. When all is complete, trim off the excess, repair or disguise holes under bottom wing. The question is this: Do people feel it is possible to NOT drill these holes all the way through? To just insert the glued thread into a partial hole and have the CA hold it in place? I would very much like to avoid this top-side damage if possible... Is it possible to avoid drilling through the BOTTOM wing, and use heat to tighten the sags? Long post, I know... TIA! Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 14:18:33 EDT From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Rigging Question Message-ID: <40.aa37461.2819c079@aol.com> --part1_40.aa37461.2819c079_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A conditional yes to both, you can drill a hole half way thru the bottom of the top wing, tie a knot in the thread, but trim it off at the knot. stuff the knot in the hole, cover with a drop of CA, let cure (at least 30 minutes), then proceed. I prefer to pull threads taut, so I have never used heat tightening. I pull the loose ends through the appropriate hole, pull them taut, and secure with tape, then apply the CA. I have 'laced' two bay planes like a football, with continuous runs, threading the rigging from hole to hole;a fresh sharp blade and some care in trimming, usually close the holes and don't leave any marks on the upper and lower wings, but occasionally a little sanding or scraping is needed, but it's very minor. Warning: do not use 'accelerators' on flying/landing wires that are rigged with through holes, the accelerator makes the CA brittle, which makes it hard to clean up, or shatters it, releasing the thread. Merrill --part1_40.aa37461.2819c079_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A conditional yes to both, you can drill a hole half way thru the bottom of
the top wing, tie a knot in the thread, but trim it off at the knot. stuff
the knot in the hole, cover with a drop of CA, let cure (at least 30
minutes), then proceed. I prefer to pull threads taut, so I have never used
heat tightening. I pull the loose ends through the appropriate hole, pull
them taut, and secure with tape, then apply the CA. I have 'laced' two bay
planes like a football, with continuous runs, threading the rigging from hole
to hole;a fresh sharp blade and some care in trimming, usually close the
holes and don't leave any marks on the upper and lower wings, but
occasionally a little sanding or scraping is needed, but it's very minor.
Warning: do not use 'accelerators' on flying/landing wires that are rigged
with through holes, the accelerator makes the CA brittle, which makes it hard
to clean up, or shatters it, releasing the thread.
Merrill --part1_40.aa37461.2819c079_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:11:22 +0100 From: Mark Vaughan-Jackson To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: Things to remember about WWI modeling. . . That (having committed any and all of the bloopers mentioned so far) you do this for enjoyment and relaxation!!! (said through clenched teeth as you pick lint off the frehsly painted, freshly dropped wing.) MVJ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:43:59 -0500 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Rigging Question Message-ID: Lance, Your system sounds good. As far as not drilling all the way through, I don't think it would work overall with something as limp as monofilament, or would be more trouble than fixing the slight damage on the 'outer' surfaces of the wing. However, many of the people on this list use wire or stretched sprue and use the technique you're describing. In those cases, the glue of choice is PVA/White glue. Planning the rigging of my models is one of the longest parts of the cleanup phase - I'm looking at the kit and the rigging diagram trying to plan the best way to do the rigging with the fewest through holes to a visible outside surface (i.e., through the wing or tailplane surface just to have a 'pull point') I have had no trouble with fixing one end of a line in a hole in the fuselage and using the free end to rig. You can also put a lot of monofilament strands through one #80 bit hole (I believe this is 0.013 inch or 0.33 mm). I have also had no troubles with 'patching' #80 holes in the surfaces - I use the gap-filling SuperGlue and transfer it to the spot with a thin gauge wire (38 gauge). After everything has dried for 1 hour (with the cross-clamping tweezers holding it and adding tension) it only takes a minute or so to trim the pieces off and sand the spot smooth with 600 grit wet and dry, followed by 1200 grit. I use a piece of sandpaper about the size of the pencil eraser it's glued to and very small strokes. I can then paint the spot by hand with thinned Humbrol or Floquil paints and it will self level (several thin coats). This works for me, but part of it is that I am doing steps in the 30 min - 1 hour per day or Saturday morning+afternoon I have to work in, so I can let things take their time. Of course, lozenging is slightly different, but it usually is no big deal to leave off the top or bottom lozenge decals and the rib tapes for it until everything is in place. On some aircraft, you can avoid drilling through the wings by one of two tricks. I have had success with some by deepening the strut holes slightly, then drilling from the point the rigging enters the wing surface so that the hole enters the strut hole. You have to rig as you are setting up the wings, but for many of the multibay types this can minimize the number of punctures of the outer wing surface, at least. (by adding and rigging struts in one or two bays at a time.) One hint, though, at such a shallow drilling angle, those small bits are easy to break - start by using a needle to mark the wing surface entry point, drill straight into the wing surface ever so slightly with the bit, then restart at the shallow angle. Use the needle even if, as with the latest Eduards, the rigging entry hole is marked by a dimple - the surface of the dimple is often glass-smooth, and the bit can skitter, which mars the surface and breaks bits. Method two works for some types, and that is to do the drilling through the 'peg' of the strut. Method three works for some other types - drill a hole and make an eyebolt to go into it by wrapping .006 or finer wire around the broken shank of a #80 bit. You can also make 'eyebolts' with the monofilament, if your hand eye coordination is good - save the Scotch for after the session, you'll need it. Rig through the miniature eyebolts. This works well for the doubled wires, especially, since the width of the eyebolt holds them just right. (Is Hiro still on the list? - Thank you for the hint) .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:00:08 +0200 From: "Paul E. Thompson" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20010426205716.00b1c630@pop.xs4all.nl> Adding the double flying wires to a 1/48 subject, then realising I've doubled the wrong ones. Paul ( who is 43 tomorrow, and hopes to celebrate by finally getting the booms on his DH1a. Or are there other ways to celebrate?). ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 14:00:14 -0500 From: mflake@tarrantcounty.com (Flake, Marc) To: Subject: RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: I've got some: * Gluing a rotary engine in backwards * Leaving off struts * Thinking you can spray upper surfaces without masking undersurfaces, then not thinning your paint enoug--causing spatter * Over-sanding a vacuform Marc ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:46:45 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: <003401c0ce89$a0282200$e6a272d4@FRITZweb> Another one: Model is ready painted & rigged. Rigging holes are closed and touched up. All decals set and varnished. Everythíng is done exept paint the rigging (monofilament). A brush is taken, dipped in dark metal paint and on it goes. On the last landing wire you made a slight wrong movement and the rigging vibrates. With brush still on. Nice little dots of dark metal piant spreads over underside of top wing and upperside of lower wing. And the complete bird is painted silbergrau and if you use thinners all the silver picments will be washed out. You will really contemplate hanging yourself with 0,08 monofilament. Happened with 1/48 Pfalz DIIIa. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:51:47 +0200 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Rigging Question Message-ID: <003501c0ce8a$542e40e0$e6a272d4@FRITZweb> Hey, careful planning where running-through holes are needed and where not, is half the business. I make half-drilled holes when on the other side a complete-thrilled-hole made tautening possible. Usually 'half holes' are possible on the upperwing on the cabane positions, but not on the outer strut positions as these wires usually reaches holes in the fuselage which can not be tautened. But on the other side the holes on the strut positions are usally covered by a Balkenkreuz or a roundel. So I often put the decals on as the last step plus varnishing of top wing after rigging. If anything will went o.k. with the painting of the rigging wires then you have a neat job with no holes or touched up areas on the top wing. Hans ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 04:15:21 -0500 From: "cameron rile" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: <829289B1F6A35D115A760005B80A2E33@cameron.prontomail.com>

>Gluing the UC legs backwards.

lol.

1. When doing a Nieuport it is good practice to decal the underneath
of the top wing before gluing in the struts. Three times now I have
wondered where the extra pair of full size roundals have come from.

2. Put the Engine in the Martinsyde before you close the fuselage.

3. Finding the 425/17 serial decal perfectly glued to your finger 10
mins later after wondering why it isnt on the side of the plane.

4. Dont paint outside when there is tiny bits of snow about, they
ruin the PC10 paintwork.

5. Dropping the complete decal sheet in the dish ( done by moi about
3 days ago )



cam
AFC - http://members.nbci.com/pointcook/






Visit my homepage at http://www.prontomail.com/Prontomail/users/cameron
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------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:16:47 -0300 From: "Marcio Antonio Campos" To: Subject: RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: <000a01c0ce8d$e9098640$351ba8c0@office.br.starmedia.com> Come on, friends :-))) After reading this list of frequently made mistakes I feel like an artist, but probably because I haven't had enough modeling time to do everything you've related. But I look at the first Fokker Dr1 I assembled months ago and realize it was a mistake itself (I've already bought another one to replace this monstruous thing). BTW, for all those who moved me with stories of having more models one can assemble in a lifetime, I'd like to say that in a few weeks the postman will bring me two boxes full of models (all 1/72, Matt, but all German) and two books, starting my Windsock Datafiles collection. Best regards from Brazil Marcio Antonio Campos Redator do GuiaSP StarMedia do Brasil marcio.campos@starmedia.net http://www.guiasp.com.br http://www.guiarj.com.br http://www.nacidade.com.br > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Hans > Trauner > Sent: Quinta-feira, 26 de Abril de 2001 16:49 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... > > > Another one: > > Model is ready painted & rigged. Rigging holes are closed and > touched up. > All decals set and varnished. Everythíng is done exept paint > the rigging > (monofilament). A brush is taken, dipped in dark metal paint > and on it goes. > On the last landing wire you made a slight wrong movement and > the rigging > vibrates. With brush still on. Nice little dots of dark metal > piant spreads > over underside of top wing and upperside of lower wing. And > the complete > bird is painted silbergrau and if you use thinners all the > silver picments > will be washed out. You will really contemplate hanging > yourself with 0,08 > monofilament. > > Happened with 1/48 Pfalz DIIIa. ------------------------------ Date: 26 Apr 2001 13:48:26 -0700 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: new images Message-ID: <20010426204826.3235.cpmta@c012.sfo.cp.net> Hi I just got a look at Tom Sollers' new gallery of figures. Pretty amazing stuff Most impressed with the fact that he actualy got a good likeness on a 1/48 scale head. looking forward to seeing them completed Nice work Mark Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:57:50 -0400 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Nervous about resin kits Message-ID: <003d01c0ce93$8fa5dc60$65f3aec7@default> But the idea of building > a kit in a material that isn't totally stable worrys me. Materials don't matter when you have a spouse that isn't totally stable ;-) Seriously Neil, try it, you'll like it. St. Harry stresses the need to know the properties of your material. He was referring to plasticard, but the principle is universal. A well designed resin kit will not sag, droop or colapse under it's own weight over time, assuming the resin was properly mixed. You don't load up a kit with a bunch of metal parts and then put it on resin struts. A well designed resin kit that is heavy uses metal L/G. tThe CSM Swallow is very heavy, but sits on stout metal gear. Even the Parasol wing has no droop. Resin's plusses include the ability to cast very thin and fine parts. Wings can be made scale thin and as such are very light. OTOH, resin isn't as strong a strut material as styrene. Easier to cast scale sized struttage than styrene, but in that size, kinda weak. So use bamboo or commercial strut material, whatever you do with most styrene kits. The stuff sands easier than styrene. It's just enough different from styrene to be a fun break. Just like vacs, resin is just another way to have fun at the modeling bench. Besides, you will never see some aircraft kitted in styrene. sp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:16:04 -0400 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: <007901c0ce96$1ac66600$65f3aec7@default> My goal is to reduce my fixing mistake time to actual building time ratio to 1:1 :-) sp ------------------------------ Date: 26 Apr 2001 14:22:03 -0700 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: British Observation Balloons Message-ID: <20010426212203.4375.cpmta@c012.sfo.cp.net> Hi all I was contacted by Rocco Gioffre. He's done a very nice animation of a D7 attacking an observation balloon. Unfortunately the balloon is based on a german design, and Rocco would understandably like it to be british. So Im was wondering if someone could give him some help. His email - rgioffre@rioting.com Actualy I was also thinking of modeling an observation balloon also - so if you have any input could you please post it to the list :-) Check out his movie - but be warned it is BIG - but very cool- ftp://ftp.popstudios.com/incoming/pop_animation/Rocco/D.VII_Bd_Mtn.mov TIA Mark Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:52:08 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: British Observation Balloons Message-ID: Mark, Rocco contacted me as well and his video will be hosted by Jasta Boelcke as soon as he finished it ;o). The aircraft attacking the balloon is Bolles Fokker D.VII and I can assure you the video is fantastic! It's made on the puter and it's made by a professional! The screenshots you can see at the Carl Bolle page of my website are sreenshots from Roccos video. sincerely Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Mark > Miller > Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 11:30 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: British Observation Balloons > > > Hi all > I was contacted by Rocco Gioffre. He's done a very nice animation > of a D7 attacking an observation balloon. > Unfortunately the balloon is based on a german design, and Rocco > would understandably like it to be british. > So Im was wondering if someone could give him some help. > His email - rgioffre@rioting.com > Actualy I was also thinking of modeling an observation balloon > also - so if you have any input could you please post it to the list :-) > > Check out his movie - > but be warned it is BIG - but very cool- > ftp://ftp.popstudios.com/incoming/pop_animation/Rocco/D.VII_Bd_Mtn.mov > > TIA > Mark > > > Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! > http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:57:03 +0200 (CEST) From: knut.erik.hagen@eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Avro 504K (Dyak engined) Message-ID: <200104262157.XAA79743@mail-relay.eunet.no> Hei, I visited the RNoAF Museum in Bodř and made a series of pictures. Is there interest for a set of Avrom 504K (Dyak) scans to the WW1 site? The aircraft is suspended from the ceiling, but it was possible to shoot it from beside and above as well as from underneath. Nothing much OT except for some guns and engines, but there are quite a few Soviet WW2 projects ongoing, at least one Petlyakov Pe 2 is being assembled, there are parts for one more in storage. Eders Knut Erik ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:16:47 -0300 From: "Marcio Antonio Campos" To: Subject: I really saw myself in this one... Message-ID: <000201c0ce9e$97095620$351ba8c0@office.br.starmedia.com> http://www.ucomics.com/calvinandhobbes/viewch.cfm?uc_fn=1&uc_full_date=19860 422&uc_daction=P&uc_comic=ch Best regards from Brazil Marcio Antonio Campos Redator do GuiaSP StarMedia do Brasil marcio.campos@starmedia.net http://www.guiasp.com.br http://www.guiarj.com.br http://www.nacidade.com.br ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:19:47 +0100 From: David Fleming To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: <3AE89F02.B48B71CD@dial.pipex.com> Marcio Antonio Campos wrote: > Come on, friends :-))) > > After reading this list of frequently made mistakes I feel like an artist, > but probably because I haven't had enough modeling time to do everything > you've related. But I look at the first Fokker Dr1 I assembled months ago > and realize it was a mistake itself (I've already bought another one to > replace this monstruous thing). > No model you build is a mistake - you look at it now and it's not up to your standard, but you learnt from that model. It's the same with all these mistakes - you make one through forgetfullness or tiredness, but you learn and try to avoid it. I KNEW RFC rudder stripes went blue/white/red, but started painting red first - I may or may not do that again, but probably not. It's all fun, but, hey, learning can be fun !! If you make a mistake, it's not life threatening, you just try a little harder next time. > > BTW, for all those who moved me with stories of having more models one can > assemble in a lifetime, I'd like to say that in a few weeks the postman will > bring me two boxes full of models (all 1/72, Matt, but all German) and two > books, starting my Windsock Datafiles collection. > Good choice of scale, do not be seduced by those on the dark side (1/48th) :-)))) Maybe we'll get you looking at some opponents for those 'targets'....... > Best regards from Brazil > Greetings from Scotland - our Countries have a long tradition of meeting every 2nd World Cup - hopefully we'll be in Japan to aviod you !! David ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:53:40 -0300 From: "Marcio Antonio Campos" To: Subject: Off-Topic, Scotland and Brazil Message-ID: <000201c0cea3$bd886e80$351ba8c0@office.br.starmedia.com> > Greetings from Scotland - our Countries have a long tradition > of meeting every > 2nd World Cup - hopefully we'll be in Japan to aviod you !! > > David Hello, David! Well, the way we are playing now it's very likely you'd beat us easily. In our last 2 matches of the World Cup qualifying round we got a draw (against Peru) and a loss (against Ecuador). Best regards Marcio Antonio Campos Redator do GuiaSP StarMedia do Brasil marcio.campos@starmedia.net http://www.guiasp.com.br http://www.guiarj.com.br http://www.nacidade.com.br ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:25:16 -0500 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: Subject: RE: Des Moines contest Message-ID: Yes, but I have to get my yard cleaned up one of the 2 days. Paul -----Original Message----- From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Matt Bittner Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 9:12 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: Des Moines contest On Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:01:48 -0400 (EDT), Paul Schwartzkopf wrote: > With the Thunderbirds and Confederate Air Force putting on a show in town > this Saturday, nope! But they'll be there Sunday as well. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 20:35:42 EDT From: Stephendigiacomo@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: One of my *favorite* mistakes is to take an already glued part off because I put it on backwards or upside down only to discover that I actually had it right. *&^%#$#@!!! ~Steve ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:43:15 -0700 From: "Limon3" To: Subject: Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... Message-ID: <004e01c0ceb3$0c7f21a0$4bf3303f@i7e2z6> Yes, Marcio, you are now hopelessly, completely addicted :-} Gabe ----- Original Message ----- From: Marcio Antonio Campos To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 1:22 PM Subject: RE: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... > Come on, friends :-))) > > After reading this list of frequently made mistakes I feel like an artist, > but probably because I haven't had enough modeling time to do everything > you've related. But I look at the first Fokker Dr1 I assembled months ago > and realize it was a mistake itself (I've already bought another one to > replace this monstruous thing). > > BTW, for all those who moved me with stories of having more models one can > assemble in a lifetime, I'd like to say that in a few weeks the postman will > bring me two boxes full of models (all 1/72, Matt, but all German) and two > books, starting my Windsock Datafiles collection. > > Best regards from Brazil > > Marcio Antonio Campos > Redator do GuiaSP > StarMedia do Brasil > marcio.campos@starmedia.net > http://www.guiasp.com.br > http://www.guiarj.com.br > http://www.nacidade.com.br > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Hans > > Trauner > > Sent: Quinta-feira, 26 de Abril de 2001 16:49 > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: Re: Things to Remember when WW1 Modelling...... > > > > > > Another one: > > > > Model is ready painted & rigged. Rigging holes are closed and > > touched up. > > All decals set and varnished. Everythíng is done exept paint > > the rigging > > (monofilament). A brush is taken, dipped in dark metal paint > > and on it goes. > > On the last landing wire you made a slight wrong movement and > > the rigging > > vibrates. With brush still on. Nice little dots of dark metal > > piant spreads > > over underside of top wing and upperside of lower wing. And > > the complete > > bird is painted silbergrau and if you use thinners all the > > silver picments > > will be washed out. You will really contemplate hanging > > yourself with 0,08 > > monofilament. > > > > Happened with 1/48 Pfalz DIIIa. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 20:43:55 EDT From: Stephendigiacomo@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Hans Trauner's indiscretion: (was: Things to remember or Mistakes - anyway) Message-ID: <6b.135d317b.281a1acb@aol.com> Having read Herr Trauner's account of how he spickle-spottled his silbergrau . . . excuse me I can't even bring myself to recount it. It seems that material of such emotionally shatttering information should first be sent to the list owners for their review and approval rather than to the list with the presumption that we all possess the solidity of mind to bear it. I . . . I . . . my psychologist has agreed to start my sessions all over again . . . ~Steve di Giacomo ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:11:21 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: Passchendaele WAS: New SPAD from Rosemont Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7101748FA5@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Neil says: > PS. I think you're going to have to tell me what Passchendaele > was too, I have a feeling it's OT, one of the early battles? My great uncle (Grandfathers oldest brother) went there for a visit in 1917 (?) and stayed forever. Passchendaele lasted 3 months in which period 60,000 died and 61 VC's were awarded men from the UK, Australia, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa. This is a decent book about the VC winners with good background history too... http://www.chapter-one.com/vc/subbook.asp?book=23 Incidentally an interesting site. Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 01:41:20 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Passchendaele WAS: New SPAD from Rosemont Message-ID: Shane: This is a coincidence. My great uncle was also killed during that battle. Sammy Tavill of the Manchester Regiment died on October 9, 1917 and has his name on the Tyne Cot Memorial. I assume that is where many of the fallen at Passchendaele were buried. Michael >From: Shane Weier >Reply-To: wwi@wwi-models.org >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Passchendaele WAS: New SPAD from Rosemont >Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:16:19 -0400 (EDT) > >Neil says: > > > PS. I think you're going to have to tell me what Passchendaele > > was too, I have a feeling it's OT, one of the early battles? > >My great uncle (Grandfathers oldest brother) went there for a visit in 1917 >(?) and stayed forever. > >Passchendaele lasted 3 months in which period 60,000 died and 61 VC's were >awarded men from the UK, Australia, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa. > >This is a decent book about the VC winners with good background history >too... > >http://www.chapter-one.com/vc/subbook.asp?book=23 > > >Incidentally an interesting site. > >Shane > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >********************************************************************** >The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is >intended only for the use of the addressee(s). >If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or >copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to >forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the >MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. > >e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au >phone: Australia 1800500646 >********************************************************************** _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3317 **********************