WWI Digest 3243 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Resin Wing Repair by "DAVID BURKE" 2) Re: Resin Wing Repair by "DAVID BURKE" 3) Re: Digital Modeling by Michael and Sharon Alvarado 4) RE: Resin Wing Repair by Brent Theobald 5) Re: Resin Wing Repair by MAnde72343@aol.com 6) RE: Nieuport 10 again by Shane Weier 7) Re: You're All Too Sharp! Was: New Kit Alert! 1:48 Zeppelin-Staaken by Michael and Sharon Alvarado 8) Re: Resin Wing Repair by "David Calhoun" 9) Re: Resin Wing Repair by RadspadMike@netscape.net 10) Re: Resin Wing Repair by RadspadMike@netscape.net 11) Re: RE: Resin Wing Repair (baking soda warning) by "Joey J Valenciano" 12) Re: Digital Photography - a beginners view by "Limon3" 13) Bohme's Albatros C.III markings by "David Calhoun" 14) RE: Bohme's Albatros C.III markings by Shane Weier 15) Re: Bohme's Albatros C.III markings by =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= 16) Re: Resin Wing Repair (baking soda warning) by KarrArt@aol.com 17) Re: You're All Too Sharp! Was: New Kit Alert! 1:48 Zeppelin-Staaken R.VI by Todd Hayes 18) FMP Pfalz Book by Todd Hayes 19) Drawings in FMP Pfalz Book by Todd Hayes 20) Brent Theobald's Address by Todd Hayes 21) RE: Brent Theobald's Address by Shane Weier ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:26:24 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Resin Wing Repair Message-ID: <001e01c0bbcd$424ce7c0$9f131a3f@oemcomputer> > Howdy! > > I made some similar repairs using CA and barking soda. This 'barking soda' must liven up your cookies! DB ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:32:49 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Resin Wing Repair Message-ID: <001f01c0bbcd$4337e400$9f131a3f@oemcomputer> Hiya! Lemme weigh in here - I've used both the straight CA route and the Milliput route. Lemme tell you what I do: I take the offending wing with the hole by the trailing edge (or in it) and take and put some Scotch tape (or any clear tape) on the flattest side of the repair. Get it pressed down good and tight! Add a drop of accelerator (or kicker) and then a drop of CA - don't try to totally fill the hole. Once the first drop is set up, pull the tape off. The tape will have given the CA a bottom surface to cling to. And it should be nice and flat. If there's a divot, add primer and or putty to level it out. You end up getting the best of both worlds: a hard patch and a workable fill! Try it! DB ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 19:42:19 -0400 From: Michael and Sharon Alvarado To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Digital Modeling Message-ID: <3AC90E5B.5CF09182@verizon.net> Yes. You create - me buy. Alvie "Jay M. Thompson" wrote: > Thanks for the kind words, folks. > > Yep the image is 1500X1200 or so, so those of you using smaller screen > resolutions will have to scroll around. That's as far as I could bring > myself to reduce it- it's really much better at its full res of 4700X2700, > and just bringing it down to 1500X1200 caused the loss of considerable > detail. > > It's an interesting question as to how much credit I can take for the final > quality, and how much I can't. The rendering engine I use, Lightscape, uses > a technique called radiosity, which models light distribution through a > scene using algorithms originally designed by engineers to model heat > distribution through a system, and therefore results in lighting results > that are far more accurate than your average rendering system, including > very high end renderers like Mental Ray and Maya's rendering engine. > > Even so, the final result involved about 20 hours of post processing in > Photoshop, where the raw render is cloned to several layers, and layer masks > are used to isolate specific layers for display of highlighted areas and > shadow areas, all of which involved considerable tweaking using curves, > levels, and hue/saturation/luminosity, where the quality of the final result > relies on the skill of the artist's eye to get it all to blend seamlessly > and match the lighting conditions of the background. > > I apologize if that's all Greek to some of you, but it's hard to explain > this stuff without being fairly technical. > > RK, well, all I can say is I offer it as a lighting reference if it can be > of any assistance in finalizing your version;-) > > One thing you folks on the list can help me with, is that I would like to do > more of these, producing prints for sale. Now I know I can very easily make > money doing this producing images of modern aircraft and WWII types, but > good lord, they've been done to death and besides, I LOVE WWI! I'd much > rather do a whole series (20 or so) with this model of various DVII's, > staffels in flight, in combat, on the ground, then move on to Albatros's, > Camels, SE5's...but I can't if there's not a real market for it. So tell me > if many of you would be interested in purchasing prints similar to what you > see on the link, and I hope the answer is yes! Please don't banish me to > modeling F-15's;-) > > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of > KarrArt@aol.com > Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2001 4:04 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Digital Modeling > > In a message dated 4/1/01 10:54:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > vossie@mindspring.com writes: > > << > Anyway, please check it out folks and let me know what you think. The Meyer > image can be found at: > > http://members.home.net/flyingaces/FokDVII_Meyer_Sky_wBackground_1copy.jpg > > Jay Thompson > >> > > Two things....first- you've been added to my hate list- I'm working on large > D.VII painting right now- almost the same angle and pose! > second- it looks FINE! I like the detail that's lurking in the shadows. > RK ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:47:23 -0500 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Resin Wing Repair Message-ID: <4B9386E83999D411997100508BAF206A01608E81@stamail.telecom.sna.samsung.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0BBCF.43E32D40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Howdy! Barking soda Hah hah! Typing on this laptop BITES!!! I forgot to mention that I put Saran Wrap(sp?)under the TE of the wing to give the CA and "barking" soda a flat surface to start from. Later ya'll! Brent -----Original Message----- From: DAVID BURKE [mailto:dora9@sprynet.com] Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 4:42 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Resin Wing Repair > Howdy! > > I made some similar repairs using CA and barking soda. This 'barking soda' must liven up your cookies! DB ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0BBCF.43E32D40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: Resin Wing Repair

Howdy!

Barking soda Hah hah! Typing on this laptop = BITES!!!

I forgot to mention that I put Saran Wrap(sp?)under = the TE of the wing to give the CA and "barking" soda a flat = surface to start from.

Later ya'll!

Brent
-----Original Message-----
From: DAVID BURKE [mailto:dora9@sprynet.com]
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 4:42 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list
Subject: Re: Resin Wing Repair


> Howdy!
>
> I made some similar repairs using CA and = barking soda.

This 'barking soda' must liven up your = cookies!


DB

------_=_NextPart_001_01C0BBCF.43E32D40-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 19:58:49 EDT From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Resin Wing Repair Message-ID: <102.132359f.27fa6c39@aol.com> --part1_102.132359f.27fa6c39_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mike I use Milliput, and it's relatives (A plus B, Apoxie, etc.) for a lot of repairs and conversions. Simply the handiest material around, easily sculpted, it has the advantage of not attacking (like body putty) the surrounding parts. The trick is to be patient, and keep your tools moist (a toothpick works) and using rubbing alcohol for the final clean up, after the stuff is nearly cured. If done right NO SANDING is required, occasionally I need to use a little 'green stuff' to feather a spot I wiped too much away on, but with practice, this rarely happens. It's the only thing I use for casting voids, and it's easy to use for surface pits as well, in all scales. Merrill --part1_102.132359f.27fa6c39_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mike I use Milliput, and it's relatives (A plus B, Apoxie, etc.) for a lot of
repairs and conversions. Simply the handiest material around, easily
sculpted, it has the advantage of not attacking (like body putty) the
surrounding parts. The trick is to be patient, and keep your tools moist (a
toothpick works) and using rubbing alcohol for the final clean up, after the
stuff is nearly cured. If done right NO SANDING is required, occasionally I
need to use a little 'green stuff' to feather a spot I wiped too much away
on, but with practice, this rarely happens. It's the only thing I use for
casting voids, and it's easy to use for surface pits as well, in all scales.
Merrill
--part1_102.132359f.27fa6c39_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 10:02:22 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Nieuport 10 again Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7101748E95@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Alvie, > Happy belate birthday Shane Thanks mate (and it *was* my birthday but.. > > > It's my birthday on Monday. Today in Jolly Olde Englande it's Peter Leonards birthday > Alvie > > Who turns the big 50 at the end of the month. Gawd. At least I'm only aging, and not *that* old ;-) Shane (With apologies to our real seniors !) ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 20:17:18 -0400 From: Michael and Sharon Alvarado To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: You're All Too Sharp! Was: New Kit Alert! 1:48 Zeppelin-Staaken Message-ID: <3AC9168D.76CD222@verizon.net> Cosmic man! Alvie DAVID BURKE wrote: > > You're all too sharp to fall for my April Fools joke I > > see. I should have made it a 1:48 Gotha G.Vb (right > > Dave B.?) from Borneo. Wouldn't Great War Planes be a > > good name for an OT company though? Happy B-day > > Shane! 26 yrs. old right? > > > > Todd > > > > Actually todd, what made it obvious was not that it was April 1, but that we > are all sensitive to certain disturbances in the sub-ether. It works like > this: we are all a bunch of strange plastic-heads (include resin, metal, > wood, etc - you know what I'm referring to) and we are all into this 'black > art' of WWI modelling. Envision us as all being spiders sitting at the > perimeter of a common web: if some ultra-obscure Czech basement company > produces some ultra-obscure kit of an ultra-obscure subject (a la the Grain > Kitten), it is like an unfortunate mosquito has lighted in the web, and the > vibrations alert us to this almost impossible to get goodie (and we do > indeed procure it!). Now, aside from the fact that the news of a real > Staaken would have hit this metaphoric web like a double-decker bus that has > been dropped from a REAL Staaken at 20,000 feet, there is also the matter of > the modeler's ether. > > The modeler's ether works like this: it can be envisioned as a plane that > stretches far and wide and crosses the consciousness of all humans. > Vortices, appearing almost as chakras would, connect each individual to this > plane - assuming that these people have been exposed to the subject. If you > could see this plane, it would look like the model of 'gravity wells' that > are used to explain cosmic interactions. Even the 'wells' of our List > members vary - mine is continually growing, and especially so since the > Gotha scratchbuild began. The 'spiderweb' analogy that I used blends with > this 'ethereal plane' here. We consciously and unconsciously perceive and > are aware of developments on this plane because of the various harmonics and > vibrations. The development of a 1/48 resin Staaken would open up a > singularity on this cosmic plane, sucking all WWI modeling reality into a > realm where light and RAF wire could not escape. > > That's right - we'd all turn into die-hard Luftwaffe '46 fans. And there > would be no more Force. > > I'd better stop - I'm giving myself the Willies! > > DB ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 20:29:43 -0700 From: "David Calhoun" To: Subject: Re: Resin Wing Repair Message-ID: <006801c0bbee$54cceaa0$8ee23ccc@oemcomputer> Hi Mike, When I bought the Macchi M5 from Lonestar, my trailing edge of one upper wing was GONE! all air bubbles left no trailing edge, as well as ribs for about 1/16" to 1/8" in from where the trailing edge should be. Since this would be impossible to fill and sand sharp enough to resemble the trailing edge on the good wing, not to mention sanding it that thin would eliminate all rib detail, I e-mailed Mike West about the problem. He sent me a new wing - perfectly done this time. I saw recently his e-mail is down, but you can probably fax him and have him send you a replacement if the part is too badly damaged to repair. His kits are slightly expensive, but his good customer service makes them worthwile, and I would highly recommend his products. Dave Calhoun ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 2:59 PM Subject: Resin Wing Repair > Recent references to the 1/48 Lone Star Models' Macchi M.5 brought back to mind what I think is a minor problem with the kit I bought some time ago. There is a circular hole, about 1/8" in diameter, completely through and including a small part of the trailing edge of the upper port wing, which means the filling material will have to be sanded down to a fine edge at the TE. I have used CA to fill the frequently encountered tiny pin holes in resin but don't believe CA is the answer this time. > > I'm thinking of using fine grain white Milliput epoxy putty but am reluctant to experiment and ruin the wing. I would appreciate comments or suggestions from anyone who has handled this type of resin repair. > > TIA, > > Mike K. > > __________________________________________________________________ > Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 22:02:30 -0400 From: RadspadMike@netscape.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Resin Wing Repair Message-ID: <26CB806D.324B0653.3E0364A1@netscape.net> Hi Dave, Shortly after I received the kit, I emailed Lone Star with an attached scan of the wing (no, Matt, I did not use the scanner cover as a clamping device - - the wing survived), asking how to fix it. I didn't think the problem warranted a replacement. I didn't get a reply nor a "message undelivered mail daemon" return mail. I'm not too concerned about that. If I were I would have followed up. I all too frequently delete messages before reading, sometimes unknowingly. I have several Lone Star kits and may want to buy some more, so I'm not getting into any responsiveness issues. My working with resin experience has been mainly with detail sets, etc. I just didn't want to attempt a fix and do something stupid to ruin the wing and then find out I couldn't get a replacement. I appreciate your comments regarding the trailing edge "notches". Those on my wings don't appear to be too severe. I'm hoping to fix these with CA. Thanks, Mike K. Dave Calhoun wrote: > > Hi Mike, > When I bought the Macchi M5 from Lonestar, my trailing edge of one upper > wing was GONE! all air bubbles left no trailing edge, as well as ribs for > about 1/16" to 1/8" in from where the trailing edge should be.  Since this > would be impossible to fill and sand sharp enough to resemble the trailing > edge on the good wing, not to mention sanding it that thin would eliminate > all rib detail, I e-mailed Mike West about the problem.  He sent me a new > wing - perfectly done this time. > I saw recently his e-mail is down, but you can probably fax him and have him > send you a replacement if the part is too badly damaged to repair.  His kits > are slightly expensive, but his good customer service makes them worthwile, > and I would highly recommend his products. __________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 22:12:32 -0400 From: RadspadMike@netscape.net To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Resin Wing Repair Message-ID: <43566E96.473743C8.3E0364A1@netscape.net> Thanks to all who responded to my question. Many of you confirmed what I suspected - - I need some sort of dam or form on the flattest surface. DB and Merrill, I'm going to use the clear tape, kicker and CA to close off the bottom and then use Milliput to fill and sculpt to shape to the top surface. Thanks again, Mike K. __________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 13:36:12 -0800 From: "Joey J Valenciano" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: RE: Resin Wing Repair (baking soda warning) Message-ID: <3AC0FEE400324E6F@mail01.san.yahoo.com> (added by postmaster@mail01.san.yahoo.com) >I made some similar repairs using CA and baking soda. The baking soda soaks >up the CA very quickly and sands nicely. Hello all, I've noticed that repairs I have done a few years ago in this manner have tended to become brittle and lose their structural integrity. I think it has to do with humidity. What i notice is that the baking soda becomes brown and brittle, and crumbles quite easily. I have since refrained from using baking soda. what i usually do nowadays is either to use CA entirely (building up w/ thin coats if necessary), or help fill the hole with a plastic or resin plug of approximate shape. Using a plug of similar material to that being repaired helps in that the hardness of the plug matches that of the repaired item, thus making sanding less problematic __________________________________ www.edsamail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 19:49:57 -0700 From: "Limon3" To: Subject: Re: Digital Photography - a beginners view Message-ID: <004b01c0bbe8$c5c67ba0$94f3303f@i7e2z6> I just got a baby brother to Knut Erik's Fujifilm 4700, and I'm also a digital camera newbie, but what I've done so far has been pretty nice. I got the AC adapter, that will save a gazillion buckaroos on batteries. Maybe if I can finish up a model or two, I can send Monsieur Nungessbitt some pics :-} Gabe ----- Original Message ----- From: Knut Erik Hagen To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 2:06 PM Subject: Digital Photography - a beginners view > Hei, > > I have been using a 4.3Mpix digital camera for a couple of weeks now, > there are some differences from ordinary cameras like my Nikon F100. > > If used in macro setting, the digital cameras field of depth is much greater > than for the conventional one. Taking some model photos, I found that not > only the model was sharp, but also the table and wall behind. > > Optical zoom should be used in preference to the digital one. > > Using the view-finder to aim the digital camera did not work for me, > took a bit of time getting used to the LCD screen. > It is difficult to photgraph anything that moves with my digital camera. > > The camera eats batteries, you need more than one set of batteries to fill > up a 16Mb card, especially if they power the flash as well. > You can not expect the flash to be as powerful as the separate units for SLR > cameras, so range is limited to a couple of meters. > > Miss having UV filters etc on the digital camera, filtering has to be done > after loading onto the computer. > > I have a Floppy disk adapter so I can load images from the SmartMedia card > onto any computer with a 3.5" drive after loading a driver from an ordinary > floppy. > Very useful if you have an old PC or just want to borrow one that do not > belong to yourself. > > The very highest settings for resolution should be reserved for special > occasions, 1.8Mb images are way to large for the web. > > > I am happy with my Fujifilm Finepix 4700 zoom, still learning the pros and > cons, but one does at least get to see the photo immediately after it was taken. > > Eders > Knut Erik > > > > > > > >> No real tips on digital photography. My digicam is pretty primative, so > >> trial and error is how I found the approximate distances and lighting to use > >> it under. I'm sure your camer will have a wider range of conditions under > >> which you can get a good photo. > > > >Thanks, I plan on a lot of experimentation - electronic 'film' is pretty > >much free! > > > >> About the only thing I know about wargaming is that the participants seem to > >> like their models very simple. Why is this so? Are the models handled by > >> others during play? Or are so many required that building time becomes a > >> factor? > > > >They are handled, and bump into each other, etc. I've even had the top wing > >of a Dr-I ripped right off by a heavy handed wargamer (he didn't get invited > >back). Compromises I have to make for durability include (but are not limited > >to) Only rigging between the wings (other rigging gets knocked off to easy), > >replacing plastic struts with flattened brass wire (where the plastic is > >not stiff enough) no external brass details (like control horns) that can > >be snapped off, etc. > > > >> Looking forward to some photos. How about some of wargaming in progress and > >> a little about the game. > > > >Many on the site: > > > >http://www.wwi-models.org/Historicon/index.html > > > >Enjoy! > >Al > > > >=========================================================================== ==== > >Allan Wright Jr. | Without love life's just a long fight - Southside > >University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- > >Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org > >Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org > >=========================================================================== ==== > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 23:26:25 -0700 From: "David Calhoun" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Subject: Bohme's Albatros C.III markings Message-ID: <000901c0bc07$044fb760$8ee23ccc@oemcomputer> Hi everyone! Just repaired my computer this weekend, had to reboot my drive - had a virus or something causing all kinds of problems. It's better now, and I installed an antivirus program. Hopefully this message comes through in plain text - I forgot to reset it on my previous message. My question is: does anyone have the link to the correct markings for Bhome's Albatros C.III? I remember someone made these up for use on the ALPS printer & would like to try printing them out. If anyone has these images please let me know the link, or e-mail me the file if easier for you. Thanks, Dave Calhoun ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 13:50:38 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Bohme's Albatros C.III markings Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7101748E9C@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Dave > My question is: does anyone have the link to the correct markings for > Bhome's Albatros C.III? I remember someone made these up for > use on the > ALPS printer & would like to try printing them out. If > anyone has these > images please let me know the link, or e-mail me the file if > easier for you. By coincidence, after a loooong lay off, Joey Valenciano posted only minutes ago. If you look on the WW1 web site under his name I think you'll find what you want Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 12:18:24 +0800 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= To: Subject: Re: Bohme's Albatros C.III markings Message-ID: <000d01c0bbf5$32be7c60$7f01010a@jaring.my> Dave, actually you can find these markings TWICE on the webpage. Look at: http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Pearson/1.48.Dragodile.jpg and http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Valenciano/index.html However, you will have to do a new layer to print the white background, if you want to use the ALPS potential fully. I have redone those markings with this layer in 72 scale, so if you're interested, contact me offlist, and I can send you this file for rescaling. Volker ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Calhoun" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 11:28 AM Subject: Bohme's Albatros C.III markings > Hi everyone! > Just repaired my computer this weekend, had to reboot my drive - had a virus > or something causing all kinds of problems. It's better now, and I > installed an antivirus program. Hopefully this message comes through in > plain text - I forgot to reset it on my previous message. > My question is: does anyone have the link to the correct markings for > Bhome's Albatros C.III? I remember someone made these up for use on the > ALPS printer & would like to try printing them out. If anyone has these > images please let me know the link, or e-mail me the file if easier for you. > Thanks, > Dave Calhoun > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 00:19:29 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Resin Wing Repair (baking soda warning) Message-ID: <42.12f02782.27faa951@aol.com> In a message dated 4/2/01 7:36:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time, joeyval_ww1@edsamail.com.ph writes: << Hello all, I've noticed that repairs............ >> Hey- forget the repair stuff for a minute.........good to see your name here again! RK ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 21:24:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: You're All Too Sharp! Was: New Kit Alert! 1:48 Zeppelin-Staaken R.VI Message-ID: <20010403042431.82939.qmail@web11103.mail.yahoo.com> I thought so. --- DAVID BURKE wrote: > > > > You're all too sharp to fall for my April Fools > joke I > > see. I should have made it a 1:48 Gotha G.Vb > (right > > Dave B.?) from Borneo. Wouldn't Great War Planes > be a > > good name for an OT company though? Happy B-day > > Shane! 26 yrs. old right? > > > > Todd > > > > Actually todd, what made it obvious was not that it > was April 1, but that we > are all sensitive to certain disturbances in the > sub-ether. It works like > this: we are all a bunch of strange plastic-heads > (include resin, metal, > wood, etc - you know what I'm referring to) and we > are all into this 'black > art' of WWI modelling. Envision us as all being > spiders sitting at the > perimeter of a common web: if some ultra-obscure > Czech basement company > produces some ultra-obscure kit of an ultra-obscure > subject (a la the Grain > Kitten), it is like an unfortunate mosquito has > lighted in the web, and the > vibrations alert us to this almost impossible to get > goodie (and we do > indeed procure it!). Now, aside from the fact that > the news of a real > Staaken would have hit this metaphoric web like a > double-decker bus that has > been dropped from a REAL Staaken at 20,000 feet, > there is also the matter of > the modeler's ether. > > The modeler's ether works like this: it can be > envisioned as a plane that > stretches far and wide and crosses the consciousness > of all humans. > Vortices, appearing almost as chakras would, connect > each individual to this > plane - assuming that these people have been exposed > to the subject. If you > could see this plane, it would look like the model > of 'gravity wells' that > are used to explain cosmic interactions. Even the > 'wells' of our List > members vary - mine is continually growing, and > especially so since the > Gotha scratchbuild began. The 'spiderweb' analogy > that I used blends with > this 'ethereal plane' here. We consciously and > unconsciously perceive and > are aware of developments on this plane because of > the various harmonics and > vibrations. The development of a 1/48 resin Staaken > would open up a > singularity on this cosmic plane, sucking all WWI > modeling reality into a > realm where light and RAF wire could not escape. > > That's right - we'd all turn into die-hard Luftwaffe > '46 fans. And there > would be no more Force. > > I'd better stop - I'm giving myself the Willies! > > > DB > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 21:41:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: FMP Pfalz Book Message-ID: <20010403044123.14518.qmail@web11101.mail.yahoo.com> For those rare list members who like Pfalz's, Roll Models has the new Pfalz book for $42.50. Todd __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 21:45:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Drawings in FMP Pfalz Book Message-ID: <20010403044524.92777.qmail@web11102.mail.yahoo.com> Would someone who has this book tell me if the drawings are in 1:47, 1:72, or both? Todd __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 21:49:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Brent Theobald's Address Message-ID: <20010403044930.93163.qmail@web11102.mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone know if Brent has left for Korea yet? I need his home address if someone here has it. TIA Todd __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 14:55:49 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Brent Theobald's Address Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7101748E9D@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Todd, > Does anyone know if Brent has left for Korea yet? I > need his home address if someone here has it. > He *sent* an email from Korea a few hours ago IIRC, so the answer is presumably "yes" Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. 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