WWI Digest 3215 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Alternatives to Solvaset by huggins1@swbell.net (John Huggins) 2) Re: Alternatives to Solvaset by "DAVID BURKE" 3) RE: Fighting Cocks by Shane Weier 4) Re: Heller Spad 7 by KarrArt@aol.com 5) Re: Alternatives to Solvaset by Ernest Thomas 6) RE: Alternatives to Solvaset by Shane Weier 7) Re: Bombs Away!! Dave Your N.12 is on the Way by Todd Hayes 8) Thanks by REwing@aol.com 9) RE: ot / personal / lost my adresses and mails by "Gaston Graf" 10) RE: French Nieuport 12 information by "dfernet0" 11) RE: Fighting Cocks by "dfernet0" 12) RE: Alternatives to Solvaset by John & Allison Cyganowski 13) RE: Alternatives to Solvaset by "dfernet0" 14) RE: Alternatives to Solvaset by Crawford Neil 15) RE: Alternatives to Solvaset by "dfernet0" 16) RE: Alternatives to Solvaset by "Gaston Graf" 17) strike! by "dfernet0" 18) RE: Alternatives to Solvaset by Crawford Neil 19) RE: strike! by Crawford Neil 20) Re: Solvaset by "Mark Shannon" 21) Re: Solvaset by "Michael Kendix" 22) RE: Solvaset by Crawford Neil 23) Re: Solvaset by "Mark Shannon" 24) Neckel DVa? by Mark Miller 25) RE: strike! by "dfernet0" 26) Jasta formation by Mark Miller 27) Solvaset, etc by MAnde72343@aol.com 28) Re: strike! by MAnde72343@aol.com 29) RE: strike! by "dfernet0" 30) Memorial Flight Spad XIII - accuracy of colors by Myles Miller ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 21:59:03 -0600 From: huggins1@swbell.net (John Huggins) To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: >John, > >I have a letter from Dr. Glen Merrill of A/G. In it >he gives his recommendations for SS solutions. When >placing in water, he recommends plain water, water and >detergent, or water and alcohol. As SS solutions, he >recommends white vinegar, most commercial solutions, >or nothing at all. FYI, according to him, most two >part ones are basically white vinegar and a mild >detergent, sometimes with a drop of white glue. >Solvaset is some pretty potent stuff, isn't it? It is about the strongest I have ever used. I don't use it that often, but for real hard ball decals or ones going over strange shapes or surfaces, it is about the best one on the market. I tend to stay from the home brew stuff. The individual ingredients may be harmless, but one never knows what may be a byproduct of the mixing. I have abised my eyes and lungs enough in the past 40 plus years with off the shelf stuff, I don't need to add an unknown agent to the mix as well. John ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:07:07 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: <002101c0b285$b3340820$1d101a3f@oemcomputer> > John, > > I have a letter from Dr. Glen Merrill of A/G. In it > he gives his recommendations for SS solutions. When > placing in water, he recommends plain water, water and > detergent, or water and alcohol. As SS solutions, he > recommends white vinegar, most commercial solutions, > or nothing at all. FYI, according to him, most two > part ones are basically white vinegar and a mild > detergent, sometimes with a drop of white glue. > Solvaset is some pretty potent stuff, isn't it? > > Todd My problem is probably that I couldn't resist playing with the decals. I'll re-apply the Solvaset - maybe it will settle down. that stuff is MURDER!! DB ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 14:20:17 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Fighting Cocks Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7101748E17@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> E > There was a teacher in my elementary school whose wife was trampled to > death by Kangaroos. I swear. The Australian Rugby League international team is called the Kangaroos. Being trampled by them could ruin your day I swear. Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 23:39:47 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Heller Spad 7 Message-ID: <30.122b5c2a.27eadc13@aol.com> In a message dated 3/21/01 10:53:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com writes: << IIRC, Alan Clark builds in 1/36th because he can double 1/72 drawings fairly easily !! Anyone remember what scale his Albatros was ? D >> I think that was another 1/36 job. RK ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 23:00:27 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: <3AB986EB.8CCE3CC4@bellsouth.net> DAVID BURKE wrote: > My problem is probably that I couldn't resist playing with the decals. I'll > re-apply the Solvaset - maybe it will settle down. that stuff is MURDER!! Have you tried cutting the wrinkle with a new, sharp #11 blade, then re-applying the Solvaset? Usually works for me. And just a fwiw, the only time I've EVER had a problem with Solvaset was with some Hobbycraft Camel decals, which were nigh invulnerable to the stuff. E. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 14:37:33 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7101748E19@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> John, > I tend to stay from the home brew stuff. The individual ingredients > may be harmless, but one never knows what may be a byproduct of the > mixing. I have abised my eyes and lungs enough in the past 40 plus > years with off the shelf stuff, I don't need to add an unknown agent > to the mix as well. I'm curious to know which of "white vinegar, mild detergent and white glue" is an unknown agent or how badly they'd abuse your lungs compared with, say, when eatin the vinegar on your salad. FWIW most of the commercial solvents are acetic acid (yes, vinegar) with a wetting agent (detergent). The rest are alcohol based. Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 21:23:00 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Bombs Away!! Dave Your N.12 is on the Way Message-ID: <20010322052300.19202.qmail@web11104.mail.yahoo.com> I don't have it either. I'm thinking of ordering it. Roll Models has it for $10.75. Todd --- David Calhoun wrote: > Hi Todd, > I don't have the datafile yet on the N. 10/12. Are > there any good interior > photos? > Dave C > -----Original Message----- > From: Todd Hayes > To: Multiple recipients of list > Date: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 7:33 PM > Subject: Re: Bombs Away!! Dave Your N.12 is on the > Way > > > >Dave, > > > >I guess there's another Merlin N.12 for sale on > Ebay > >along with a 1:48 Merlin Albatros D.II. Both are > less > >than $15. Do you have the DF on the N.10/12? > > > >Todd > > > > > >--- David Calhoun wrote: > >> Thanks Todd... > >> Heading for my bunker! > >> Dave C > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Todd Hayes > >> To: Multiple recipients of list > > >> Date: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 1:09 PM > >> Subject: Bombs Away!! Dave Your N.12 is on the > Way > >> > >> > >> >Dave, > >> > > >> >It went off today. Just watch the sky for the > >> B.52. > >> > > >> >Todd > >> > > >> > > >> > >__________________________________________________ > >> >Do You Yahoo!? > >> >Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > >> >http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > >> > > >> > >> > > > > > >__________________________________________________ > >Do You Yahoo!? > >Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > >http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 00:38:25 EST From: REwing@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Thanks Message-ID: <45.3f57d3e.27eae9d1@aol.com> I forgot to thank Chris, Matt, and Lee for their help. Thanks guys!! -Rick- nb: two jasta 19 Fokker DRI's (from a while ago!!!) nu: Eduard's Roland C.II nl: Kitaro's "Kojiki" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:23:28 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: ot / personal / lost my adresses and mails Message-ID: I hoped to fly with you online, Hänschen, but had no reply yet so in case you lost my address here it is again: Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de PS: I wonder how one can loose all of his stuff just be doing a transfer to a new computer? Next time just ask me and I will give you the info you need to transfer your stuff from one puter to another. > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Hans > Trauner > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 8:33 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: ot / personal / lost my adresses and mails > > > Hi listees, > I have just managed to link my new little electric helper to the > matrix. Due > to upgrading to IE 5.5 and Outlook Express X.y whatever I lost my old wwi > list mails including all unanswered mail I got in the last days. > So anybody > expecting an answer: Sorry, try it again, please! > > Thanks. > > Hans > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:09:36 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: French Nieuport 12 information Message-ID: <008101c0b2b8$33228200$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Gabriel! Le Coq Sportif still is alive and kicking, and clads the argie football team (or it was Puma last year?). D. "El Gallo Deportivo". Patético. :-) ----- Original Message ----- From: ^ To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 2:13 AM Subject: Re: French Nieuport 12 information > One of the symbols most dear to French history is the "Coq d'Or," the Golden > Rooster, you're right about fighting roosters, a favorite pastime among many > people. When I was still racing bicycles, there was a French company which > made clothing called "le Coq Sportif," almost the same logo as some of our > OT rooster insignias. Incidentally, cock fighting is still a very popular, > illegal "sport" in the area where I live, the Central Valley of CA. > Gabe > ----- Original Message ----- > From: David C. Fletcher > To: Multiple recipients of list > Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 4:16 PM > Subject: Re: French Nieuport 12 information > > > > mdf@mars.ark.com wrote: > > > > > > > What is with the French and Roosters? I'd never really consider it a > > > war-like animal but it seems a lot of the French escadrille emblems > > > used them... > > > > And the RAF had 43 Squadron, "The Fighting Cocks" - cockfights used to > > be a popular blood sport in Europe. Roosters can be pretty nasty when > > riled up. > > > > Now, when we talk about the Belgians with paper horses... > > > > Dave Fletcher > > -- > > Visit us at our Home Page: > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 08:16:10 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Fighting Cocks Message-ID: <01ab01c0b2c1$7fcac000$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Ernest wrote: > There was a teacher in my elementary school whose wife was trampled to > death by Kangaroos. I swear. She was lucky not to be mugged by koalas. Those are vicious! D. who once got to fight a platypus and lived to tell the tale ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 06:28:05 -0500 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: <01C0B299.53D23780.janah@worldnet.att.net> I had a bad experience with Solvaset on the Aeroclub decals on my FE2.b. My friend Scott used to swear by the stuff, although he thinks they have changed the formulation in the last few years - made it more concentrated. It is soluble in water so it can be diluted. I think Ernie's suggestion is right on the money. Slice the wrinkle!. Regards, John Cyg. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 08:35:13 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: <025e01c0b2c4$2921f7c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Dave: Go to some chemical distributor or pharmacist, and get a small flask of acetic acid (be careful the stuff smells like hell) and make your own decal dressing with plain or distilled water. Some acid drops dilluted in a regular sized container might be powerful enough to do the task. D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 12:39:20 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: What is Solvaset, the same as Microsol? If not is it better? /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: John & Allison Cyganowski [mailto:janah@worldnet.att.net] > Sent: den 22 mars 2001 12:32 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset > > > > I had a bad experience with Solvaset on the Aeroclub decals > on my FE2.b. > My friend Scott used to swear by the stuff, although he > thinks they have > changed the formulation in the last few years - made it more > concentrated. > It is soluble in water so it can be diluted. I think > Ernie's suggestion > is right on the money. Slice the wrinkle!. > > Regards, > John Cyg. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 08:47:03 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: <028301c0b2c5$d068bb80$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Same stuff, more or less. An mild acid solution that softens the decal "carrier" film without affecting the inks (at least so I read once in FSM) D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Crawford Neil To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 8:44 AM Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset > What is Solvaset, the same as Microsol? If not is it better? > /Neil ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 12:50:13 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: Ehm.... Solvaset? Chemo-Mix??? Well, here at a place where one has run for miles or to mailorder such stuff like Solvaset people use to try other methods to come to a result. I made the best experiences with a pre-coating of gloss varnish. Then application of the decals solved in luke-warm water with a little bit of vinegar. The vinegar takes the surface tension of the water and soften the decals. To make the decals perfectly fit I carefully overbrushed them with a tiny little bit of diluting agent of the paints. Hope this makes any sense to you freaks ;o) Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of > dfernet0 > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 12:40 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset > > > Dave: > Go to some chemical distributor or pharmacist, and get a small flask of > acetic acid (be careful the stuff smells like hell) and make your > own decal > dressing with plain or distilled water. Some acid drops dilluted in a > regular sized container might be powerful enough to do the task. > D. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 08:58:02 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: "ww1 list" Subject: strike! Message-ID: <028801c0b2c7$59096d80$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> As some of you may have heard, Argentina suffered yesterday another general strike. I got no choice but to stay at home, away from the list wisdom and from my workplace. However, this unexpected and unsavoury day off allowed me to do some chores at my modelling bench: - I folded and painted the PE seat for the Nieuport 28. I used the Lone Star Models pe set wich is great, but be careful with those "lattice" seat backs: the indents that represent the intersection of different strips of wood bends easier than the surrounding "thick" strips. If you don't fold this carefully, the seat might look faceted. - I assembled (for the first time) a Tom's Modelworks 1/72 Vickers gun using ALL the PE parts provided... It was fun! However I used the gun jacket from an airwaves set, as the TM Vickers have no fluted jackets, but a plain "tube" with cooling vents. It looks pretty, I must admit. Much better than the plastic provided by Revell. - Waiting for the paint to dry, I started to torture a balsa block to crash mold some parts... how do you do to make clean cuts in thick balsa chunks? I always end with awful slashes that I have to sand to get them tidy. How to avoid this? D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 13:01:57 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset Message-ID: OK, then I advocate violence, slashing them, pressing them on, whatever. With floods of microsol. Then touch up afterwards. Thats how I got the revell decals to sit on the two Junkers a/c that I've built. The final result was very good, but they looked awful initially. /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar] > Sent: den 22 mars 2001 12:53 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset > > > Same stuff, more or less. An mild acid solution that softens the decal > "carrier" film without affecting the inks (at least so I read > once in FSM) > D. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Crawford Neil > To: Multiple recipients of list > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 8:44 AM > Subject: RE: Alternatives to Solvaset > > > > What is Solvaset, the same as Microsol? If not is it better? > > /Neil > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 13:29:05 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: strike! Message-ID: If you compare it to an Aeroclub white-metal vickers, is it much better? /Neil Ps. I can't carve balsa either! Diego wrote: > > - I assembled (for the first time) a Tom's Modelworks 1/72 > Vickers gun using > ALL the PE parts provided... It was fun! However I used the > gun jacket from > an airwaves set, as the TM Vickers have no fluted jackets, but a plain > "tube" with cooling vents. It looks pretty, I must admit. > Much better than > the plastic provided by Revell. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:28:36 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Solvaset Message-ID: Solvaset is rubbing alcohol (iso-propyl alcohol) and a mild detergent [probably a 'nonionic' type) with water MicroSol is acetic acid, ethyl acetate, a detergent, and water. The ethyl acetate is probably a bit faux de mieux in the mix, it is a mild organic solvent. So a simple homebrew MicroSol equivalent would be to use white vinegar (5% acetic acid solution in water) and a few grains of 'All' or 'Surf' brand detergents (I do not know their European, Australian, and South American counterparts, anymore. In the U.S. these are two readily available ones that all non-ionic detergent based.) A simple Solvaset homebrew equivalent would be to dissolve a few grains of the detergent in 70% rubbing alcohol. The reason for using a non-ionic detergent is that it leaves no salts. The problem with the home brews is that detergents are formulated with salts (mostly sodium sulfate) and 'built' with sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium carbonates, or zeolites for better hard-water performance. The brands I recommended are low in perfumes and are 'non-built' because non-ionic surfactants are not affected by hard-water minerals. Most of the salt will wash away when you wash your decals after they set (you do wash away excess decal set and glue after decaling, don't you) but there will always be a little that is 'sequestered' under the decal. This will not be a problem for normal models - for museum models, it could cause somewhat more rapid deterioration of the decals over the centuries. The best would be to get some of the pure detergent compound, which I used to do because I invented better ways to make the stuff and generated large quantities of test and analytical samples. If you do get some, be careful and wear rubber gloves - in its pure state the stuff can strip the oils from your skin and cause such dryness that the skin cracks and peels in deep bleeding ulcerations, and certain ranges of the molecule can strip paint. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 13:41:47 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: Solvaset Message-ID: >From: "Mark Shannon" > >Solvaset is rubbing alcohol (iso-propyl alcohol) and a mild detergent >[probably a 'nonionic' type) with water Well, how come it doesn't smell like iso-propyl alcohol and/or Surf? To me it has a "bitter" nauseating smell. Also, is it correct that MicroSet (TM) is a weaker form of Solvaset? >The best would be to get some of the pure detergent compound, which I >used >to do because I invented better ways to make the stuff and >generated large >quantities of test and analytical samples. If you do >get some, be careful >and wear rubber gloves - in its pure state the >stuff can strip the oils >from your skin and cause such dryness that the >skin cracks and peels in >deep bleeding ulcerations, and certain ranges >of the molecule can strip >paint. Good grief! Since my formal accomplishment in chemistry is a Physics-with-Chemistry O-Level passed in 1974 with a Grade 6 (the lowest acceptable pass), I'm just going to use the store stuff - MicroSet, MicroSol, Solvaset. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 14:42:39 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: Solvaset Message-ID: This was very interesting Mark, but I still have one question which is best, Microsol or Solvaset? /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Shannon [mailto:MSHANNON@tnrcc.state.tx.us] > Sent: den 22 mars 2001 14:33 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Solvaset > > > Solvaset is rubbing alcohol (iso-propyl alcohol) and a mild > detergent [probably a 'nonionic' type) with water > > MicroSol is acetic acid, ethyl acetate, a detergent, and water. > snip ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 09:01:58 -0600 From: "Mark Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Solvaset Message-ID: Solvaset is rubbing alcohol (iso-propyl alcohol) and a mild detergent [probably a 'nonionic' type) with water MicroSol is acetic acid, ethyl acetate, a detergent, and water. Which is better? I can't really say, but I do know that Solvaset is harsher and will dissolve dyes from some decal brands much more readily than MicroSol. Microsol will cause some brands to react poorly (Hasegawa's newer decals, in particular, will shrivel into sharp-edged wrinkles that do not settle out if it is applied too soon), but other brands will not react to it at all (mostly older decals - ESCI and Heller decals often were too stiff and thick to settle with MicroSol ) Unless Solvaset has changed formulations in the very recent past, it still smells like iso-propyl alcohol to me. I don't know that I would describe it as 'bitter', though it is a strong, 'biting' smell. No, it would not smell like 'Surf' unless you added a lot more detergent and the perfume package. You may be sensitive to the ethoxylate smell of a non-ionic detergent, which can be very nauseating in strong doses, and people's reactions are highly personal and not to be dismissed. There are other parts to any formulation, it is possible that longer-chain alcohols are used, and if they added butyl or iso-butyl alcohol, it is really possible for it to have a stronger smell that many people find highly nauseating. (for some reason, butyl (four carbon chain) compounds cause stronger odors for each type of functional group than those on either side - acetic acid smells like vinegar when dilute, propionic acid has a cheesy smell, butyric acid smells like vomit, and pentanoic acid smells a bit like pumpkin or squash; ethyl mercaptan and propyl mercaptans are used to give natural gas a detectable smell, butyl mercaptan is used by skunks to give a 'deterrent' smell, pentyl mercaptan smells like a milder form of the natural gas smell. (On the other hand, both butyl acetate and ethyl butyrate smell like artificial banana/strawberry/kiwi fruit - not exactly high-class, but not really objectionable unless you are bathed in it, and tert-butyl acetate has a minty/school paste smell, so go figure.) Butyl acetate is 'banana oil' and is one of the major fragrant ingredients in airplane dopes (to get back OT.) I don't believe that MicroSet is a more dilute (weaker) form of Solvaset - it still has the acetic smell similar to MicroSol to me, not the alcohol smell. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: 22 Mar 2001 08:07:23 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Neckel DVa? Message-ID: <20010322160723.21991.cpmta@c012.sfo.cp.net> Hi I have been generating images of various paint schemes with my virtual DVa model. I just noticed that I made a mistake and rendered out Neckel's Jasta 12 DV as a DVa with lozenge wings I can redo them with the purple/mauve wings but... the images came out pretty nice and I was just wondering - is there any chance that neckel painted up a DVa with the black tail and white chevron? well - it's worth a shot anyway and as long as I'm asking did that chevron come to a point on the top/bottom of the fuse - or did it curve around? TIA Mark Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 13:38:17 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: strike! Message-ID: <02d401c0b2ee$7fc8cac0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Neil: I can't say... I've never ordered aftermarket Vickers from Aeroclub or any other manufacturer. I wish that CSM would have marketed 1/72 Vickers, and that they were as good as their Spandaus. D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Crawford Neil To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 9:34 AM Subject: RE: strike! > > If you compare it to an Aeroclub white-metal vickers, is it > much better? > /Neil > > Ps. I can't carve balsa either! ------------------------------ Date: 22 Mar 2001 08:39:22 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Jasta formation Message-ID: <20010322163922.23513.cpmta@c012.sfo.cp.net> Hi Does anyone know what formation was typicaly used by Jastas V, line ahead, line abreast, ?? typical spacing? I don't know if it matters but right now I'm interested in jasta 5 and 12 any info would be appreciated TIA Mark Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 11:40:47 EST From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Solvaset, etc Message-ID: The selection of 'commercial setting/softening solutions offer quite a range of mixtures, I've used them all, and here are my experiences: Solvaset; The grandfather of all, a strong alcohol based solvent type, too strong for many decals, works best on the 'older' decal emulsions and thicker decals-use with caution Aero Set/Sol : two part, a 'wetting' agent (the set) and a solvent/softner (the sol) set is acetic acid based, the sol, an alcohol. Fairly strong, different formula from solvaset, works on most decals made in the last ten years, will eat some decals Floquil Sol/Set: literally same as above, I think they make the stuff for Aeromaster Micro Set/Sol: Similar to above, but less concentrated, slightly different solvent mixture, safer for most decals, will not work as well for extreme situations. Gunze Mr. Softer : a very mild slow acting sol, very good for delicate decals, does not wrinkle or overly soften decals, but it works, especially good with kit decals. Champs Decal Set: I don't know if this one is still around, I used it on armor decals, which tend to be thick and have to go over very rough detail. A 'nuke' against modern acrylic emulsion decals, will destroy/dissolve many. Use only in extreme situations, and be prepared for disaster. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 11:43:59 EST From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: strike! Message-ID: Aeroclub Vickers are good, not great, the best are PE, (my favorite is Toms Modelworks) Rosemont used to market the best resin Vivkers in 1/48, hopefully they'll re issue ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 13:50:42 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: strike! Message-ID: <030301c0b2f0$3b4a63c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> TM vickers doesn't have fluted jackets... that's why I snatched some from Airwaves, wich are etched in two thicknesses. I guess that in 1/72 the fluting can be disguised tracing thin pencil lines along the tube (sliding carefully a 0.5 pencil lead over the lenght several times). D. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 1:47 PM Subject: Re: strike! > Aeroclub Vickers are good, not great, the best are PE, (my favorite is Toms > Modelworks) Rosemont used to market the best resin Vivkers in 1/48, hopefully > they'll re issue > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 09:07:42 -0800 From: Myles Miller To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Memorial Flight Spad XIII - accuracy of colors Message-ID: <4.1.20010322082614.009eb410@mail> >Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 09:12:28 -0600 >From: "Matt Bittner" >To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" >Subject: Memorial Flight > >Not sure if people have been there lately, but the Memorial Flight Association in France (http://memorial.flight.free.fr/) has posted some >extremly sharp photos of their SPAD 13 undergoing restoration. Now if only someone would come out with new kits of the single >seat >SPADs!!!!! >Matt Bittner Matt and others: How do you feel about the accuracy of the exterior camo, interior colors, and interior wood panels? Would you consider this a highly accurate reconstruction? What is the color of the fabric visible in a couple of the interior cockpit photos? Curious - Myles (who continues to be mystified by French CDL, yellow, beige, etc.) ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3215 **********************