WWI Digest 3083 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) The Roden Gotha assessed by Volker Haeusler 2) RE: Photo-etched struts and white glue 3) New Domain Check by Allan Wright 4) Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes by "Steven M.Perry" 5) Re: night loz rib tapes by "Matt Bittner" 6) Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes by "Michael Kendix" 7) Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes by Allan Wright 8) RE: The Roden Gotha assessed by Brent Theobald 9) RE: New Domain Check by Crawford Neil 10) Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes by Allan Wright 11) RE: X-acto was Rib Tapes by Crawford Neil 12) RE: Photocopier and Decals Question by Brent Theobald 13) Re: New Domain Check by Allan Wright 14) Re: night loz rib tapes by "Steven M.Perry" 15) Re: New domain by Jan Vihonen 16) RE: X-acto was Rib Tapes by "Gaston Graf" 17) RE: MoS N question by "Gaston Graf" 18) RE: Tom's Modelworks Lewis' by "dfernet0" 19) Re: New domain by Allan Wright 20) RE: MoS N question by "Matt Bittner" 21) RE: Tom's Modelworks Lewis' by "Matt Bittner" 22) RE: WWI observers' wireless gear by "dfernet0" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 10:18:43 +0700 From: Volker Haeusler To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: The Roden Gotha assessed Message-ID: Thanks to the usual fast delivery of Earl at NKR and the usual one week delay caused by "Pos Malaysia" and "Kastam Malaysia" the Roden Gotha finally touched down here in Penang last weekend. I think a number of you have already given their first impression on the kit, but I have not yet seen any comments on the kits accuracy. So here are my first impressions: 1. Background The kits claims to portray both the Gotha G II and the Gotha G III. Looking on the available documentation, the differences are as follows: The G II was the first Burkhard designed Gotha bomber (as compared to the Ursinus designed G I). Itīs main identification features were: - Daimler D IV "straight eight" engine - either four bladed or wide chord two bladed props - 2 gun positions in the nose and aft of the pilot The D IV engine was the major contributing factor to the G IIīs failure, this engine being plagued by an endless series of breakdowns due to crankshaft vibrations and fractures - the crankshaft just being to long to run smoothly given the technology of that day (but what a fascinating concept that straight eight was!). The Gotha G III introduced the following major changes: - 6 cylinder Daimler D IVa engine - "standard" 2 bladed props - a third (ventral) gun position (not yet the famous "Gotha tunnel") Conclusion: Those who have already seen the kit will have noticed: It is not possible to build a G II straight out of this kit. More on that later... 2. Comparing the kit to the WS drawings Given some past experiences (especially with the Pfalz D III, where the Roden kit obviously is more accurate than the WS drawing), I first checked the drawings against the published dimensions. Again, I found the WS drawings to be somewhat inaccurate. As an example, the lower wing span (21.900 mm in the original or 304 mm in 72 scale) is not shown properly in the drawings, the drawn dimenison actually varying from drawing to drawing. In the G III top view the lower wing is a full 9 mm to short. Therefore all conclusions must be treated with some care. Too, the real accuracy will only show after assembly of the multi part wings. However, here are my first observations: Upper wing: Span and chord seem to be very accurate, the cutout of the trailing edge in the center section differs from the drawing, but it is difficult to assess whoīs right. Lower wing: Might be slightly to long, whereas the drawing invariably shows a span that is to small. chord seems ok again. Judging from photos, I think the more "square" wingtips of the kit are more accurate than the WS drawings. fuselage: Too long in the kit, but maybe easy to fix by modifying the fuselage end. More difficult to fix is the upward "curvature" of the fuselage top in the tail area, which was also there in the original, but seems grossly overdone in the kit. Rudder: The lower curvature of the G III rudder in the kit is maybe not totally right, but definitely better than the inaccurate WS depiction. I have some difficulty with the tailplane, as I have not found any good photos of G II/III taiplanes, but compared to those of the G IV the Roden parts look more accurate than the WS drawings again - the differences anyway are marginal. 3. Detailing When looking into the kit, my first reaction was sheer joy. Looking closer, I see 2 or 3 areas I do not like too much: As already stated in my comments on the Pfalz, I have some problems with the Roden wheels. That is also true for the Gotha, with the tires just looking to small compared to the wheel center. The cockpit and fuselage interior is not really bad (much better than in the Frog Vimy or Airfix O/400), but the detail is sometimes a little weak (for example on the fuselage sides). definitely I would have liked a floor - the rather old fashioned approach of gluing the seats etc. to the bottoms of the fuselage halfes is not a good idea in such an open, clearly visible cockpit. However, some plastic sheet and evergreen stuff can turn the cockpit/fuselage into a real dream. On the positive side, some of the details, including the 2 D IVa engines and the Parabellums look great. As already stated above, you can not build a G II out of this kit for 3 reasons: - The kit includes only 6 cyl D IVa engines, no 8 cyl D IV. This is maybe not that serious, as you anyway canīt see much through that very small gap in the engine cover side, but at least I donīt like the idea to have the wrong engines installed. - The G II did not have a ventral gun position, therefore the circular hole in the rear cockpit and the cutout in the ventral fusealage donīt belong there for the G II - All photos of G IIīs I know show either 4 blade or rather "strange" 2 blade props, something also mentioned by P. Grosz in the older Profile. The kit only comes with some rather standard lookin 2bladers. Finally a word on the engine nacelles: The instructions show how to modify these for the G II/III (essentially by removing most of the cooling louvres). While the proposed modifications seem to be ok for the left side of the nacelle, photos show the other side to be even more "plain". Again, look on photos before you decide what to do. Finally, the markings: The kit comes with all the markings for one G II and 2 G IIIīs., these being the machines depicted on plate A, B and C on p. 17 of the WS "Gotha!". Much improved over the earlier Toko markings (remember that "Klein" Pfalz D XII?). G II 204/16 was one of the G IIīs with 4 bladed props. 4. My Conclusion Well,in spite of some remarks above Iīm not disappointed with the Gotha. It is definitely the best injection molded WW I two mot I know.I like the layout that will make assembly not too difficult. I donīt take the G II issue too serious, Iīm anyway not going to do this plane. I think Roden could have done better with the fuselage interior, but than most of us anyway would have replaced or added a lot in the cockpit. Whatever - it is a fine kit of an interesting aircraft, and Roden can only be congratulated for the courage to do these subjects. I say: Buy one to encourage them to bring out those even more interesting G IVs and G Vs Volker ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:07:48 -0600 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Photo-etched struts and white glue Hi Roger, I just apply paint to thicken up the struts. I usually need to give it a few layers. If I get any runs or brush strokes I just sand it. The super glue idea sounds good though. The added strength could be a real bonus. I don't have any pictures of the Pup right now. Maybe I'll take some and have them posted. Later! Brent -----Original Message----- From: roguerpj [mailto:roguerpj@black-hole.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 5:32 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Photo-etched struts and white glue To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: New Domain Check Message-ID: <200102151511.KAA03746@pease1.sr.unh.edu> This is a mail to check to see if the list will accept mail to wwi@wwi-models.org Sorry for cluttering up the list with tests. Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | "I Played the Fool" - Southside Johnny University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:11:40 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes Message-ID: <001e01c09761$99c329a0$5df3aec7@default> > Does everyone use X-acto blades? How do you keep them sharp? > I only nowadays use my x-acto for applying putty, it's totally blunt. > I use snap-off blades, they have a slightly clumsy shape, but they > are always sharp. > /Neil The mail order hobby shops that cater to the R/C bunch, (Tower, Hobby Lobby etc.),sell packets of 100 #11 blades for 10 or 12 bucks. sp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:12:31 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: night loz rib tapes Message-ID: <200102151512.HAA19560@hawk.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:03:54 -0500 (EST), Steven M.Perry wrote: > Like a Nie.16? ;-) Not until some certain replacement parts are released! :-( Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:13:20 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes Message-ID: >From: Crawford Neil >Does everyone use X-acto blades? How do you keep them sharp? >I only nowadays use my x-acto for applying putty, it's totally blunt. >I use snap-off blades, they have a slightly clumsy shape, but they >are always sharp. I have constructed a small pyramid that is a scale replica of the famous one in Giza. It is approximately 3 feet (one metre) high, stays in the back yard and is aligned on a north-south axis (that's true, not magnetic, north). I take all my blunt blades and bury them under the pyramid, being careful to position the blades facing up and the next day, they are sharp again. I haven't bought a new blade since 71,000 BC. If you cannot be bothered to make your own pyramid or don't have a friend who owns such, you can visit your local arts and crafts store (Pearl in the US) and they sell little boxes of 100 blades for a relatively small amount of money. If a blade becomes blunt, unscrew the knife handle, take out the blunt blade, throw it in the bin, put a new blade in and do not forget to tighten the knife handle up again. Michael >/Neil > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Jan Vihonen [mailto:jan.vihonen@helsinki.fi] > > Sent: den 15 februari 2001 15:41 > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: Re: Rib Tapes > > > > > > Mark wrote: > > > > > One of the ways I use is to super glue two X-acto blades > > together. The gap between then is about 1/16 of an inch and > > allows thin strips to be cut from decal sheet. > > > > There's an X-Acto twin blade knife, adjustable with a screw, which is > > ideal for this purpose if you're ready to pay a little extra for your > > hobby. Still it would be good to use a piece of cardboard or > > palsticard > > of proper thickness between the blades to secure the set width. FWIW. > > > > Jan > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:19:56 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes Message-ID: <200102151519.KAA03967@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > > Does everyone use X-acto blades? How do you keep them sharp? > > I only nowadays use my x-acto for applying putty, it's totally blunt. > > I use snap-off blades, they have a slightly clumsy shape, but they > > are always sharp. > > /Neil > > The mail order hobby shops that cater to the R/C bunch, (Tower, Hobby Lobby > etc.),sell packets of 100 #11 blades for 10 or 12 bucks. I have 3 knives on my table, one I change the blade in about once a year. I use this for putty, scraping white metal bits, rough hacking. A second I change monthly and I use this for most general cutting. The third I always keep a pristine blade in and use for all the delicate precision work. I buy blades in quantity - they're really not all that expensive. Also I much prefer testors blades to X-acto brand. The Testors seem to start sharper and hold that sharpness for a longer time than the X-acto. Micro-mart sells a #11 blade sharpening system, but I can't be bothered to do that. Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | "I Played the Fool" - Southside Johnny University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:18:43 -0600 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: The Roden Gotha assessed Message-ID: <4B9386E83999D411997100508BAF206A79ED59@stamail.telecom.sna.samsung.com> Volker, Thank you very much for posting this information. It will be very useful since I am planning on building a G.II. I received my copy of the kit yesterday. It is taking a lot of will power not to push everything off the workbench in order to start this baby! Later! Brent -----Original Message----- From: Volker Haeusler [mailto:haeusler@tm.net.my] Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 9:09 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: The Roden Gotha assessed Thanks to the usual fast delivery of Earl at NKR and the usual one week delay caused by "Pos Malaysia" and "Kastam Malaysia" the Roden Gotha finally touched down here in Penang last weekend. I think a number of you have already given their first impression on the kit, but I have not yet seen any comments on the kits accuracy. So here are my first impressions: 1. Background The kits claims to portray both the Gotha G II and the Gotha G III. Looking on the available documentation, the differences are as follows: The G II was the first Burkhard designed Gotha bomber (as compared to the Ursinus designed G I). Itīs main identification features were: - Daimler D IV "straight eight" engine - either four bladed or wide chord two bladed props - 2 gun positions in the nose and aft of the pilot The D IV engine was the major contributing factor to the G IIīs failure, this engine being plagued by an endless series of breakdowns due to crankshaft vibrations and fractures - the crankshaft just being to long to run smoothly given the technology of that day (but what a fascinating concept that straight eight was!). The Gotha G III introduced the following major changes: - 6 cylinder Daimler D IVa engine - "standard" 2 bladed props - a third (ventral) gun position (not yet the famous "Gotha tunnel") Conclusion: Those who have already seen the kit will have noticed: It is not possible to build a G II straight out of this kit. More on that later... 2. Comparing the kit to the WS drawings Given some past experiences (especially with the Pfalz D III, where the Roden kit obviously is more accurate than the WS drawing), I first checked the drawings against the published dimensions. Again, I found the WS drawings to be somewhat inaccurate. As an example, the lower wing span (21.900 mm in the original or 304 mm in 72 scale) is not shown properly in the drawings, the drawn dimenison actually varying from drawing to drawing. In the G III top view the lower wing is a full 9 mm to short. Therefore all conclusions must be treated with some care. Too, the real accuracy will only show after assembly of the multi part wings. However, here are my first observations: Upper wing: Span and chord seem to be very accurate, the cutout of the trailing edge in the center section differs from the drawing, but it is difficult to assess whoīs right. Lower wing: Might be slightly to long, whereas the drawing invariably shows a span that is to small. chord seems ok again. Judging from photos, I think the more "square" wingtips of the kit are more accurate than the WS drawings. fuselage: Too long in the kit, but maybe easy to fix by modifying the fuselage end. More difficult to fix is the upward "curvature" of the fuselage top in the tail area, which was also there in the original, but seems grossly overdone in the kit. Rudder: The lower curvature of the G III rudder in the kit is maybe not totally right, but definitely better than the inaccurate WS depiction. I have some difficulty with the tailplane, as I have not found any good photos of G II/III taiplanes, but compared to those of the G IV the Roden parts look more accurate than the WS drawings again - the differences anyway are marginal. 3. Detailing When looking into the kit, my first reaction was sheer joy. Looking closer, I see 2 or 3 areas I do not like too much: As already stated in my comments on the Pfalz, I have some problems with the Roden wheels. That is also true for the Gotha, with the tires just looking to small compared to the wheel center. The cockpit and fuselage interior is not really bad (much better than in the Frog Vimy or Airfix O/400), but the detail is sometimes a little weak (for example on the fuselage sides). definitely I would have liked a floor - the rather old fashioned approach of gluing the seats etc. to the bottoms of the fuselage halfes is not a good idea in such an open, clearly visible cockpit. However, some plastic sheet and evergreen stuff can turn the cockpit/fuselage into a real dream. On the positive side, some of the details, including the 2 D IVa engines and the Parabellums look great. As already stated above, you can not build a G II out of this kit for 3 reasons: - The kit includes only 6 cyl D IVa engines, no 8 cyl D IV. This is maybe not that serious, as you anyway canīt see much through that very small gap in the engine cover side, but at least I donīt like the idea to have the wrong engines installed. - The G II did not have a ventral gun position, therefore the circular hole in the rear cockpit and the cutout in the ventral fusealage donīt belong there for the G II - All photos of G IIīs I know show either 4 blade or rather "strange" 2 blade props, something also mentioned by P. Grosz in the older Profile. The kit only comes with some rather standard lookin 2bladers. Finally a word on the engine nacelles: The instructions show how to modify these for the G II/III (essentially by removing most of the cooling louvres). While the proposed modifications seem to be ok for the left side of the nacelle, photos show the other side to be even more "plain". Again, look on photos before you decide what to do. Finally, the markings: The kit comes with all the markings for one G II and 2 G IIIīs., these being the machines depicted on plate A, B and C on p. 17 of the WS "Gotha!". Much improved over the earlier Toko markings (remember that "Klein" Pfalz D XII?). G II 204/16 was one of the G IIīs with 4 bladed props. 4. My Conclusion Well,in spite of some remarks above Iīm not disappointed with the Gotha. It is definitely the best injection molded WW I two mot I know.I like the layout that will make assembly not too difficult. I donīt take the G II issue too serious, Iīm anyway not going to do this plane. I think Roden could have done better with the fuselage interior, but than most of us anyway would have replaced or added a lot in the cockpit. Whatever - it is a fine kit of an interesting aircraft, and Roden can only be congratulated for the courage to do these subjects. I say: Buy one to encourage them to bring out those even more interesting G IVs and G Vs Volker ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:18:44 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: New Domain Check Message-ID: It seems to work very well Allan, I just had to change my outlook organizer, so that I get my list mail in a special folder. Thanks/Neil ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:22:41 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes Message-ID: <200102151522.KAA04030@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > If you cannot be bothered to make your own pyramid or don't have a friend > who owns such, you can visit your local arts and crafts store (Pearl in the > US) and they sell little boxes of 100 blades for a relatively small amount > of money. If a blade becomes blunt, unscrew the knife handle, take out the > blunt blade, throw it in the bin, put a new blade in and do not forget to > tighten the knife handle up again. CAREFUL! Don't just toss old blades in the bin - you'll end up with a nasty cut one day taking out the rubbish. I use an old plastic container that some 35mm film came in to hold old blades. When it gets full (about once every 3 years or so) I toss the whole thing out and get a new container. That way I'm not putting sharp things in the trash. Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | "I Played the Fool" - Southside Johnny University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:20:34 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@wwi-models.org'" Subject: RE: X-acto was Rib Tapes Message-ID: Oh, easy as that! /Neil > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Kendix [mailto:mkendix@hotmail.com] > Sent: den 15 februari 2001 16:20 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes > > > >From: Crawford Neil > > >Does everyone use X-acto blades? How do you keep them sharp? > >I only nowadays use my x-acto for applying putty, it's totally blunt. > >I use snap-off blades, they have a slightly clumsy shape, but they > >are always sharp. > > I have constructed a small pyramid that is a scale replica of > the famous one > in Giza. It is approximately 3 feet (one metre) high, stays > in the back > yard and is aligned on a north-south axis (that's true, not magnetic, > north). I take all my blunt blades and bury them under the > pyramid, being > careful to position the blades facing up and the next day, > they are sharp > again. I haven't bought a new blade since 71,000 BC. > > If you cannot be bothered to make your own pyramid or don't > have a friend > who owns such, you can visit your local arts and crafts store > (Pearl in the > US) and they sell little boxes of 100 blades for a relatively > small amount > of money. If a blade becomes blunt, unscrew the knife > handle, take out the > blunt blade, throw it in the bin, put a new blade in and do > not forget to > tighten the knife handle up again. > > Michael > > > > >/Neil > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Jan Vihonen [mailto:jan.vihonen@helsinki.fi] > > > Sent: den 15 februari 2001 15:41 > > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > > Subject: Re: Rib Tapes > > > > > > > > > Mark wrote: > > > > > > > One of the ways I use is to super glue two X-acto blades > > > together. The gap between then is about 1/16 of an inch and > > > allows thin strips to be cut from decal sheet. > > > > > > There's an X-Acto twin blade knife, adjustable with a > screw, which is > > > ideal for this purpose if you're ready to pay a little > extra for your > > > hobby. Still it would be good to use a piece of cardboard or > > > palsticard > > > of proper thickness between the blades to secure the set > width. FWIW. > > > > > > Jan > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:22:02 -0600 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Photocopier and Decals Question Message-ID: <4B9386E83999D411997100508BAF206A79ED5A@stamail.telecom.sna.samsung.com> Hi Todd, I have done a little bit of color copying onto decal paper. I use the printers at Kinkos though. All I can suggest is to seal your decals with Future or Testers dullcoat. Good luck! Brent -----Original Message----- From: Todd Hayes [mailto:thayes_52601@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 8:30 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Photocopier and Decals Question Does anyone here know if a special type of color copier is necessary to run decal paper safely through it? I just bought a new printer/copier/fax/scanner machine last week and would like to produce some decals for myself if possible. TH __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:26:03 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: New Domain Check Message-ID: <200102151526.KAA04725@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > It seems to work very well Allan, I just had to change my > outlook organizer, so that I get my list mail in a special folder. A nice side-effect for sure Neil! =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | "I Played the Fool" - Southside Johnny University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:25:51 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Re: night loz rib tapes Message-ID: <003201c09763$94ea1860$5df3aec7@default> > > Like a Nie.16? ;-) > > Not until some certain replacement parts are released! :-( > > > Matt Bittner What parts? sp The Lewis drum & sights went out the other day ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:30:16 +0200 From: Jan Vihonen To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New domain Message-ID: <3A8BF608.AC24262@helsinki.fi> Allan, I don't seem to have access to the archives. I wonder if this is due to the new domain name? Jan ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:39:00 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: X-acto was Rib Tapes Message-ID: I use an empty jam pot where I cut a slot into the cap. I slip all old blades through the slot and leave them in the glass until one day in the future I will bring that glass to the special waste collection. I started with this glass of blunt blades years ago and still have years left until it will be full ;o). Now that I have a little child again I secured the cap with glue. I had this idea as I saw how used needles are collected in hospitals. They use some kind of safety containers for the needles and blades. btw: Since blades are made of metal it is not a good idea to put them into the household waste. happy modeling Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@wwi-models.org [mailto:wwi@wwi-models.org]On Behalf Of Allan > Wright > Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 4:28 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: X-acto was Rib Tapes > > > > If you cannot be bothered to make your own pyramid or don't > have a friend > > who owns such, you can visit your local arts and crafts store > (Pearl in the > > US) and they sell little boxes of 100 blades for a relatively > small amount > > of money. If a blade becomes blunt, unscrew the knife handle, > take out the > > blunt blade, throw it in the bin, put a new blade in and do not > forget to > > tighten the knife handle up again. > > CAREFUL! Don't just toss old blades in the bin - you'll end up > with a nasty > cut one day taking out the rubbish. I use an old plastic > container that some > 35mm film came in to hold old blades. When it gets full (about > once every 3 > years or so) I toss the whole thing out and get a new container. > That way I'm > not putting sharp things in the trash. > > Allan > > ================================================================== > ============= > Allan Wright Jr. | "I Played the Fool" - Southside Johnny > University of New Hampshire > +-------------------------------------------------- > Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: > wwi@wwi-models.org > Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org ============================================================================ === ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:42:52 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: MoS N question Message-ID: Why not scratchbuilding the wedges? Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > Matt Bittner > Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 2:01 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: MoS N question > > > If anybody has the HR 1/72nd Morane Saulnier Type N, and don't need the > "Garros" prop (the one with the "wedges" on it) I would like to trade > something for it, please. TIA! > > > Matt Bittner > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:42:46 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Tom's Modelworks Lewis' Message-ID: <006101c09765$f479fbe0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> You, lazy boy! Get some accurate drawing of a Lewis gun (there's planety in windsock datafiles), scale it to 1/72 if needed and you'll have the size. Easy, isn't it? Sheesh, first he avoids putting rib tapes one by one, and now this... Where are gonna end these youngsters? D. on a crabbiness seizure ----- Original Message ----- From: Matt Bittner To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 11:21 AM Subject: RE: Tom's Modelworks Lewis' > On Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:02:40 -0500 (EST), Crawford Neil wrote: > > > The drums on the foto-cut looked like little spoked wheels, that > > you had to fold around a plastic disc. It looked difficult, but > > wasn't, and they look great. > > Do you remember what size plastic rod you used? > > > Matt Bittner > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:52:19 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@wwi-models.org Subject: Re: New domain Message-ID: <200102151552.KAA06983@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > I don't seem to have access to the archives. I wonder if this is due to > the new domain name? You can never access TODAY's archive because the list server is still processing them. Each day the archives for the previous day are made available - this happens at 1am EST. Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | "I Played the Fool" - Southside Johnny University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@wwi-models.org Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://www.wwi-models.org =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:50:43 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: RE: MoS N question Message-ID: <200102151551.HAA15593@albatross.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:48:03 -0500 (EST), Gaston Graf wrote: > Why not scratchbuilding the wedges? It's easier - and less time consuming - to find one on no one is using. :-) Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:51:29 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@wwi-models.org" Subject: RE: Tom's Modelworks Lewis' Message-ID: <200102151551.HAA18583@albatross.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:48:24 -0500 (EST), dfernet0 wrote: > You, lazy boy! > Get some accurate drawing of a Lewis gun (there's planety in windsock > datafiles), scale it to 1/72 if needed and you'll have the size. Easy, isn't > it? > Sheesh, first he avoids putting rib tapes one by one, and now this... Where > are gonna end these youngsters? > D. > on a crabbiness seizure :-P``` Stinker! :-) Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:54:24 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: WWI observers' wireless gear Message-ID: <014201c09767$94c5f1c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Jim asked: > Which reminds me, do we have anyone on the list who knows much about WWI > observers' wireless gear? Not me :-( It's a quite obscure topic, but maybe placing this question in "The Aerodrome" or "C&C" or "Over the Front" may multiply the chances to get some info. What data do you need? layout, sizes, colours...? D. ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3083 **********************