WWI Digest 3036

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) RE: More paint Questions
	by Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
  2) RE: More paint Questions
	by "dfernet0" <dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar>
  3) Re: More paint Questions
	by "Tom Solinski" <tskio4@home.com>
  4) Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
	by Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
  5) RE: More paint Questions
	by Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
  6) RE: More paint Questions
	by Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
  7) Re: More paint Questions
	by Suvoroff@aol.com
  8) RE: More paint Questions
	by Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
  9) Re: Airfix re-issues
	by "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
 10) Re: Airfix re-issues
	by Mark Vaughan-Jackson <mvj@thetelegram.com>
 11) Re: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
	by Jan Vihonen <jan.vihonen@helsinki.fi>
 12) RE: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
	by "Gaston Graf" <ggraf@vo.lu>
 13) Re: Who's the author of Full Circle?
	by "Dale Sebring" <alleluja@ida.net>
 14) Re: Off topic question
	by "Dale Sebring" <alleluja@ida.net>
 15) Re: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
	by GRBroman@aol.com
 16) Re: Airfix re-issues
	by "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
 17) Listee contact
	by "Matt Bittner" <tbittners@sprintmail.com>
 18) Re: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
	by "Brian Nicklas" <Brian.Nicklas@nasm1.si.edu>
 19) Re: Jack Gartner's MoS AI
	by "Laskodi" <laskodi@launchnet.com>
 20) Re: Airfix re-issues
	by David Fleming <dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com>
 21) Re: Airfix re-issues
	by David Fleming <dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com>
 22) Re: Airfix re-issues
	by "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
 23) New (?) Idea for Strut Attachments
	by "diaphus" <diaphus@tampabay.rr.com>
 24) Re: Jack Gartner's MoS AI
	by "diaphus" <diaphus@tampabay.rr.com>
 25) 
	by "Evan Nits" <evan_nits@hotmail.com>
 26) Re: Airfix re-issues
	by "Brad & Merville" <BigglesRFC@globalserve.net>
 27) Web Search Under Construction
	by Allan Wright <aew>
 28) Re: More paint Questions
	by Lee <lemen@x25.net>

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 13:44:31 +0100 
From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: RE: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <E1E573FB5D0AD41195CF00508BCF882A017D0949@vsegn335.it.volvo.se>

Yes I do that too, except I store mine right side up,
they look nicer that way. I think I should change my ways.
James idea sounded rather good.
/Neil

> -----Original Message-----
> From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar]
> Sent: den 2 februari 2001 13:44
> To: Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: RE: More paint Questions
> 
> 
> I'm not too fond of Humbrol tins because the caps never fit 
> well after you
> openit for the first time. Even wiping clean the edge of the 
> opening, it
> never close perfectly.
> I put the tins upside down for storage to seal the inside with the own
> contents. They last longer this way without getting thick. 
> Matt enamels dry
> faster.
> D.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
> > So whats wrong with Humbrol tins? Enquiring minds need to
> > know, and so on.
> > /Neil
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 09:47:53 -0300
From: "dfernet0" <dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar>
To: <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: RE: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <03af01c08d16$5c0fa520$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar>

Neil!
Yes they look more colorful right side up, but as I have them stored inside
a clear plastic case, I can check the bottom to choose a colour.
James has strange, wild ideas. Keep that way and you'll be in trouble, young
man.
D.

----- Original Message -----
From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
To: Multiple recipients of list <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 9:48 AM
Subject: RE: More paint Questions


> Yes I do that too, except I store mine right side up,
> they look nicer that way. I think I should change my ways.
> James idea sounded rather good.
> /Neil


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 06:54:12 -0600
From: "Tom Solinski" <tskio4@home.com>
To: <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: Re: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <008c01c08d17$3dc29360$12330e18@Solinski.okc1.ok.home.com>


> So whats wrong with Humbrol tins? Enquiring minds need to
> know, and so on.
> /Neil
>
Well for starters for some of us waaaay out here on the fruited plain
they're about as hard to find as hens teeth.
When you do find them they're expensive as a Two Dollar Kansas City whore.
Lastly if you have the faintest inkling of airbrushing with it there is
ALWAYS that incredibly large amount of this expensive elixir that is trapped
in the tin by the upper lip or because of that lip it has spilled everywhere
but in the bottle you need it to be in.
Two Cents from the old west
Tom S
Safe and happy weekend all


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 13:53:37 +0100 
From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <E1E573FB5D0AD41195CF00508BCF882A017D094A@vsegn335.it.volvo.se>

How long do your Humbrol tins last? Mine seem to last for
years despite my poor handling. I'd guess at about 5 years,
I'm sure I have some that are 10 years old, and still work.
We have dry air if that makes a difference?
/Neil

> -----Original Message-----
> From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar]
> Sent: den 2 februari 2001 13:44
> To: Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: RE: More paint Questions
> 
> 
> I'm not too fond of Humbrol tins because the caps never fit 
> well after you
> openit for the first time. Even wiping clean the edge of the 
> opening, it
> never close perfectly.
> I put the tins upside down for storage to seal the inside with the own
> contents. They last longer this way without getting thick. 
> Matt enamels dry
> faster.
> D.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
> > So whats wrong with Humbrol tins? Enquiring minds need to
> > know, and so on.
> > /Neil
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 13:57:54 +0100 
From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: RE: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <E1E573FB5D0AD41195CF00508BCF882A017D094B@vsegn335.it.volvo.se>

Didn't know that James was young! He seems very well
brought up, IIRC all his favorites were Spads:-)
/Neil

> -----Original Message-----
> From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar]
> Sent: den 2 februari 2001 13:55
> To: Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: RE: More paint Questions
> 
> 
> Neil!
> Yes they look more colorful right side up, but as I have them 
> stored inside
> a clear plastic case, I can check the bottom to choose a colour.
> James has strange, wild ideas. Keep that way and you'll be in 
> trouble, young
> man.
> D.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
> To: Multiple recipients of list <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 9:48 AM
> Subject: RE: More paint Questions
> 
> 
> > Yes I do that too, except I store mine right side up,
> > they look nicer that way. I think I should change my ways.
> > James idea sounded rather good.
> > /Neil
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 14:00:48 +0100 
From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: RE: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <E1E573FB5D0AD41195CF00508BCF882A017D094C@vsegn335.it.volvo.se>

Yes the spilling I recognize. I never use enough paint 
to get anywhere near the bottom of the tin, 1/72 you know!
/Neil

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Solinski [mailto:tskio4@home.com]
> Sent: den 2 februari 2001 13:57
> To: Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: Re: More paint Questions
> 
> 
> 
> > So whats wrong with Humbrol tins? Enquiring minds need to
> > know, and so on.
> > /Neil
> >
> Well for starters for some of us waaaay out here on the fruited plain
> they're about as hard to find as hens teeth.
> When you do find them they're expensive as a Two Dollar 
> Kansas City whore.
> Lastly if you have the faintest inkling of airbrushing with 
> it there is
> ALWAYS that incredibly large amount of this expensive elixir 
> that is trapped
> in the tin by the upper lip or because of that lip it has 
> spilled everywhere
> but in the bottle you need it to be in.
> Two Cents from the old west
> Tom S
> Safe and happy weekend all
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 08:09:38 EST
From: Suvoroff@aol.com
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <64.ae052cd.27ac0b92@aol.com>

What's wrong with the tins?
1.  They are a pain to get on and off.
2.  They sometimes leak (I store mine upside down).

I glue stickers to the bottoms of all my bottles so I know what's in them 
upside down.

How long do Humbrols last?  
Unopened, I've never had one go bad.  Once opened, it depends on what the 
color is; some seem immortal, some turn rubbery or separate and refuse to 
reintegrate; but usually it takes a long time in storage for that to happen.

Am I a young man?  
I'm old enough that I need reading glasses when I start a modelling session, 
but young enough that I can take them off after my eyes adjust in about a 
half hour.  I'm old enough to remember Testor's costing ten cents a bottle, 
though the oldest bottle I still have is 15 cents.  

Yours,
James D. Gray

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 14:20:14 +0100 
From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: RE: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <E1E573FB5D0AD41195CF00508BCF882A017D094D@vsegn335.it.volvo.se>

Next week I'm going to the optician to finally check my 
eyes, I'm beginning to get a headache when reading this,
not because of the contents! I can't remember what Humbrol
can's used to cost. I remember Airfix kits costing one shilling
and nine pence, my pocket money was one shilling and eight pence!
I think that's about 10 cents.
/Neil


> Am I a young man?  
> I'm old enough that I need reading glasses when I start a 
> modelling session, 
> but young enough that I can take them off after my eyes 
> adjust in about a 
> half hour.  I'm old enough to remember Testor's costing ten 
> cents a bottle, 
> though the oldest bottle I still have is 15 cents.  
> 
> Yours,
> James D. Gray
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 13:38:06 
From: "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: Airfix re-issues
Message-ID: <F54Q8vjqueolj8Jecd9000034b0@hotmail.com>

>From: David Fleming <david_fleming@btconnect.com>
>Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 06:03:42 -0500 (EST)
>
> >From the latest ED Models ad:
>
>Airfix re-issues due May 2001
>
>Handley page O/400  #11.99
>Sopwith Pup   #2.99

Most pleasing to see this, especially as I just turned down the opportunity 
to purchase an old issue 0/400.

What or who is ED Models?

Michael



_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 10:40:17 -0400
From: Mark Vaughan-Jackson <mvj@thetelegram.com>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: Airfix re-issues
Message-ID: <l03130302b6a03e064be8@[192.168.233.66]>


>Airfix re-issues due May 2001
>
>Handley page O/400  #11.99
>Sopwith Pup   #2.99
>
>Whoopeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!

And a further "Yeeehaaahh!!!.

I'm buying four of the suckers.


>
>Now, did someone say there was a O/100 conversion ? And could you do a
>V/1500 from a O/400 (I doubt it, but who knows ?)
>
>David

I was talking to a colleague about this very subject since it was a V/1500
that was crated to Newfoundland for the aborted transatlantivc attempt -
cancelled by virtue of being pipped at the post by Alcock and Brown's vimy.

It is possible to convert but it'll take a lot of work.
IIRC the wingspan on the V/1500 is considerably longer than the 0/400.
As well you'll have to convert the 0/400's tractor engines into the
V/1500's double prop push-me-pull-you engines.
And I think the fueselage is a hair deeper on the V/1500.

I have a profile drawing my friend did a while back (now part of the museum
show) I'll check my copy and see if there are any dimensions listed.

Is it me or is Airfix helping push the idea of an ongoing giants cook-up ??

MVJ



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 16:10:26 +0200
From: Jan Vihonen <jan.vihonen@helsinki.fi>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <3A7ABFD2.88FB0D7E@helsinki.fi>

Neil wondered

> How long do your Humbrol tins last? Mine seem to last for
> years despite my poor handling. I'd guess at about 5 years,
> I'm sure I have some that are 10 years old, and still work.
> We have dry air if that makes a difference?

Oldest Humbrol tin with paint in working condition that I have is the
first I ever bought back in mid seventies. Dark Green 30. I still
occasionally use it. The shade is a bit browner than the more recent
version of the same. 

And yes, I do wipe the _cap_ allways before closing the tin and it
allways closes tight enough, you couldn't tell whether it's been opened
or not. It's the paint that accumulates by the brim of the cap that
hinders cap closing tightly. And I store them cap up, I tried this
up-side-down storage once but wasn't happy with it, you know, all the
pigment accumulated in the cap smearing everything on opening. The con
in the screwcap is that it may stuck very hard and you need time and
patience to get it opened, whereas a Humbrol tin can allways be opened
with a screwdriver.

Jan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 15:16:56 +0100
From: "Gaston Graf" <ggraf@vo.lu>
To: <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: RE: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <NEEILCFEPCBGPDBHJFKHMEMKCFAA.ggraf@vo.lu>

Folks,

somebody like me who does not build a lot of models but keeps a lot of paint
stored does this: From time to time I open the tins and check the content.
When the paint became already thick I add a few drops of thinner and mix it
thorougly with a motor tool. I bend me some kind of a hook from a welding
rod which I use at slowest speed in my motortool to mix the paints.
Then I carefully close the cap and put the tin upside down for a few minutes
to reseal it from inside. That way the paints last for years.

sincerely

 Gaston Graf
(ggraf@vo.lu)
Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at:
http://www.jastaboelcke.de

> -----Original Message-----
> From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of
> Crawford Neil
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 2:00 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
>
>
> How long do your Humbrol tins last? Mine seem to last for
> years despite my poor handling. I'd guess at about 5 years,
> I'm sure I have some that are 10 years old, and still work.
> We have dry air if that makes a difference?
> /Neil
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar]
> > Sent: den 2 februari 2001 13:44
> > To: Multiple recipients of list
> > Subject: RE: More paint Questions
> >
> >
> > I'm not too fond of Humbrol tins because the caps never fit
> > well after you
> > openit for the first time. Even wiping clean the edge of the
> > opening, it
> > never close perfectly.
> > I put the tins upside down for storage to seal the inside with the own
> > contents. They last longer this way without getting thick.
> > Matt enamels dry
> > faster.
> > D.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
> > > So whats wrong with Humbrol tins? Enquiring minds need to
> > > know, and so on.
> > > /Neil
> >
> >
>


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 07:20:38 -0700
From: "Dale Sebring" <alleluja@ida.net>
To: <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: Re: Who's the author of Full Circle?
Message-ID: <002401c08d23$51a03700$45b58dd0@main>



> Dale Sebring wrote:
>
> AH..........the life of a slave... must be tough! Next you'll be telling
us
>  someone forced you thtough this ordeal..... ;-)
>
>
> Yep, my wife...  And to add to Diego's list:  I mentioned this
> compilation to a friend and he advised me that there is an XXX-rated
> video entitled "Mata Hari" down at the local Select Video.  I'll have to
> check the details on the release date and such to ensure D's list is, in
> fact, complete.  No doubt it will emphasize Mata Hari's more endearing
> capabilities.  "But dear, I'm doing WWI research and this video is
> essential viewing..."
>
> Dave Fletcher


Thanks Dave, ROTFL......
Dale


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 07:30:53 -0700
From: "Dale Sebring" <alleluja@ida.net>
To: <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: Re: Off topic question
Message-ID: <003a01c08d24$c05af760$45b58dd0@main>


> > Does anybody know of reviews or builds of the "old" Monogram Curtiss
> > Hawk and Boeing biplanes?  These have been around for awhile, so I'm
> > amazed there isn't more out there...  TIA!
> >
> >
> > Matt Bittner


Matt, if I remember correctly, Scale Modeler reviewed these kits back in the
late sixties or early seventies. I may have said review, however finding
them is a different story. Let me know.

Best regards,
Dale


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 09:40:07 EST
From: GRBroman@aol.com
To: <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: Re: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <27.10e9ee21.27ac20c7@aol.com>

The half life of Humbrol paints is longer than that of plutonium.  I have a bunch of the old boxes (remember them) from the 70's down in the basement.  I still use them, especially for my boys as they cover extremely well with a brush coat.  I have not yet had a tin go bad from my 30 year old stash of Humbrol's.  Only occaissionally will a tin I've opened go bad.  Usually because I didn't close it right.  I also love the smell of Humbrol paints, they remind me of my misspent youth hudled over the latest Airfix/Frog/Monogram/Renwal etc release.
Glen

In a message dated Fri, 2 Feb 2001  7:57:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com> writes:

<< How long do your Humbrol tins last? Mine seem to last for
years despite my poor handling. I'd guess at about 5 years,
I'm sure I have some that are 10 years old, and still work.
We have dry air if that makes a difference?
/Neil

> -----Original Message-----
> From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar]
> Sent: den 2 februari 2001 13:44
> To: Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: RE: More paint Questions
> 
> 
> I'm not too fond of Humbrol tins because the caps never fit 
> well after you
> openit for the first time. Even wiping clean the edge of the 
> opening, it
> never close perfectly.
> I put the tins upside down for storage to seal the inside with the own
> contents. They last longer this way without getting thick. 
> Matt enamels dry
> faster.
> D.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Crawford Neil <Neil.Crawford@volvo.com>
> > So whats wrong with Humbrol tins? Enquiring minds need to
> > know, and so on.
> > /Neil
> 
> 
 >>



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 14:44:38 
From: "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: Airfix re-issues
Message-ID: <F2461UbDBRArVc4Iu1B0000349d@hotmail.com>

>From: Mark Vaughan-Jackson <mvj@thetelegram.com>

>>Now, did someone say there was a O/100 conversion ? And could you do >>a 
>>V/1500 from a O/400 (I doubt it, but who knows ?)
> >
> >David
>
>It is possible to convert but it'll take a lot of work.
>IIRC the wingspan on the V/1500 is considerably longer than the >0/400. As 
>well you'll have to convert the 0/400's tractor engines >into the V/1500's 
>double prop push-me-pull-you engines.
>And I think the fueselage is a hair deeper on the V/1500.


Mark:

As you say, the engines have a back and front prop each but the biggest 
difference is the larger wingspan - about 100 feet versus 126 feet!  That 
translates into 21" in the divine scale.

Why is it that when the re-release or release of a kit's announced, the 
first thing we do is discuss how it can be converted into something else?:)

Michael
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 08:53:12 -0600
From: "Matt Bittner" <tbittners@sprintmail.com>
To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: Listee contact
Message-ID: <200102021453.GAA18175@albatross.prod.itd.earthlink.net>

Sorry list, but I need Dale Beamish and Mike Muth to contact me,
please.


Matt Bittner



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 10:02:23 -0500
From: "Brian Nicklas" <Brian.Nicklas@nasm1.si.edu>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: Humbrol shelf life? was: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <OFAC21EE02.DADB37DF-ON852569E7.00526197@si.edu>


I too have some old Humbrols that are still in use after 20 years.  Others
have been tossed, I did not clean the lid well enough before pressing them
closed.
And I was always surprised at how FLAT Humbrol flats were - coat after coat
of gloss on top of RLM Dark Green or Black Green and the stuff still stayed
flat.



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 07:19:19 -0800
From: "Laskodi" <laskodi@launchnet.com>
To: "Post WW1 List" <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: Re: Jack Gartner's MoS AI
Message-ID: <002301c08d2b$83d294e0$573819d0@laskodi>

Jack, What a great job. I like the in-process pics so much I'm gonna "steal"
some of your idea when I get around to mine (eventually). Can't wait until I
see the finished version! Keep up the great work!
-------------Bob


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 15:12:52 +0000
From: David Fleming <dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: Airfix re-issues
Message-ID: <3A7ACE74.4AA9D01D@dial.pipex.com>



Michael Kendix wrote:

> >From: David Fleming <david_fleming@btconnect.com>
> >Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 06:03:42 -0500 (EST)
> >
> > >From the latest ED Models ad:
> >
> >Airfix re-issues due May 2001
> >
> >Handley page O/400  #11.99
> >Sopwith Pup   #2.99
>
> Most pleasing to see this, especially as I just turned down the opportunity
> to purchase an old issue 0/400.
>
> What or who is ED Models?
>

Solihull, Birmingham (UK) based model shop/mail order shop. Owner of Airwaves
range, also currently owns the ex-Libramodels/Scaleplanes vac range . tend to
be a bit friendlier than Hannants

David


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 15:14:44 +0000
From: David Fleming <dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: Airfix re-issues
Message-ID: <3A7ACEE4.EA1EB223@dial.pipex.com>



Michael Kendix wrote:

>
>
> Why is it that when the re-release or release of a kit's announced, the
> first thing we do is discuss how it can be converted into something else?:)

Ahh, that is the way of the modeller Grasshopper !!

(that and the fact that OT kits are so thin on the ground conversion is still a
must !!)

Dave


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 15:48:36 
From: "Michael Kendix" <mkendix@hotmail.com>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: Airfix re-issues
Message-ID: <F116XmdMJOtd3rOE9Tu00003675@hotmail.com>

>From: David Fleming <dave.fleming@dial.pipex.com>

>(that and the fact that OT kits are so thin on the ground conversion >is 
>still a must !!)

Dave:

Do you really think there's so few WW1 kits available?  Aside from all the 
stuff that's come out in the past, look at all the currently available 
releases or close forthcomings.  VAMP models lists dozens of resin kits, 
Roden plans about 14 WW1 kits to be released during the next year or so, 
Eastern Express has picked up Toko's line, Eduard's done loads of stuff and 
more on the way, then there's the host of vacs. And that's just 1/72nd 
scale.  Take a look at Steve schofield's list of WW1 1/72nd scale kits.  Are 
there gaps? Yes, but there's also a lot of selection.

Michael

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 10:51:15 -0500
From: "diaphus" <diaphus@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: New (?) Idea for Strut Attachments
Message-ID: <006f01c08d2f$f9dc0820$59551a18@tampabay.rr.com>

All,

As you know, for most resin and vac kits, there are no attachment pins for
connecting undercarriage struts to the fuselage.  I don't know about you,
but hoping that just a glue connection between the strut and fuselage will
bear the weight of the model makes me nervous! :-)  I 've always tried to
drill out the struts and insert a piece of wire for reinforcement.

The problem is that for correctly scaled struts, you need to use a #79 or
#80 drill bit, and it is difficult (for me at least) to find wire that is
that small in diameter, but stiff enough to act as a reinforcing rod.

The answer came to me while making pins for the Morane undercarriage.  I
drilled out the hole as usual, then put superglue on the tip of the drill
bit, reinserted it into the hole, touched some superglue hardener to the bit
and when the gluw was dry, cut the bit off at the appropriate length .

OK, it's a bit more expensive than wire (4 bits per kit, which costs more
than 4 bits
;->, sorry, an American joke) but so are some of these kits, and I for one
prefer the comfort of knowing the undercarriage is more firmly attached.

I don't know if I'm the first to ever think of this, but I haven't seen it
mentioned elsewhere and thought I'd bring it up!

Jack Gartner
diaphus@tampabay.rr.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 10:55:12 -0500
From: "diaphus" <diaphus@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: Re: Jack Gartner's MoS AI
Message-ID: <007501c08d30$86f629c0$59551a18@tampabay.rr.com>


----- Original Message -----
From: "Laskodi" <laskodi@launchnet.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of list" <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: Jack Gartner's MoS AI


> Jack, What a great job. I like the in-process pics so much I'm gonna
"steal"
> some of your idea when I get around to mine (eventually). Can't wait until
I
> see the finished version! Keep up the great work!
> -------------Bob
>
Bob,

Thank you kindly.  I just hope building the wing support struts goes as
well!  That's the last major hurdle.

"Steal" away!  That's what this group is about, right?  Just don't steal the
markings, as according to Matt Bittner, our knowledgeable Francophile, they
are probably not correct (and of course, he thinks the kit is in the wrong
scale) :-)

Jack Gartner
diaphus@tampabay.rr.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 16:03:37 -0000
From: "Evan Nits" <evan_nits@hotmail.com>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Message-ID: <F77wpb1iTDSwLHI1VHt00007c09@hotmail.com>

Gentlemen,

As a new member of the list I would like to say hello to all!
Now that the courtesies are out of the way let me get down to business.
After a six year break from model making I recently started building again. 
In the past I exclusively built Russian armour, but from some reason WW1 
aeroplanes have now caught my fancy and I have put my armour kits away into 
storage.
I have decided that I will be building only Central Power aircraft. There is 
a tonne of stuff on Austria-Hungary, and I have managed to uncover quite a 
bit of stuff on the Ottoman Airforce, but I have been unable to find 
anything on the Bulgarians other than what their national markings consisted 
of.
Does anyone out there have any information on Bulgarian markings 
specifically camouflage schemes, and unit insignias. Also, can anyone tell 
me the types of aircraft employed by the Bulgarians? I know that their 
airforce was exclusively supplied with German kit, but what were the models?
>From my preliminary research I have discovered that the Bulgarians, like the 
Austro-Hungarians, used the Cross Patée as their national marking. 
Apparently they also painted a green strip along the trailing edge of the 
wing to differentiate their aeroplanes from the German ones.
Can anyone corroborate this information?

Regards,

Evan
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 11:08:19 -0500
From: "Brad & Merville" <BigglesRFC@globalserve.net>
To: <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Subject: Re: Airfix re-issues
Message-ID: <008201c08d32$5cfc6560$1c895ad1@default>

YEEEEEE  HAAAAAAA!   I sure hope they re-issue the original box art for the
HP.  I love that painting!  With the big 'ol Handley steaming along while
her gunners frantically blast away at swarm of ugly little red and green
Airfix Dr.1s.  (You can tell the artist used the Airfix kits of the Dr.1 as
his models, right down to the decals.)

Cheers
Brad
PS  Let me clarify that when I say 'ugly' I refer to the Airfix kit of the
Dr.1, not the Dr.1 itself.


-----Original Message-----
From: David Fleming <david_fleming@btconnect.com>
To: Multiple recipients of list <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Date: Friday, February 02, 2001 6:04 AM
Subject: Airfix re-issues


>>From the latest ED Models ad:
>
>Airfix re-issues due May 2001
>
>Handley page O/400  #11.99
>Sopwith Pup   #2.99
>
>Whoopeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!
>
>Now, did someone say there was a O/100 conversion ? And could you do a
>V/1500 from a O/400 (I doubt it, but who knows ?)
>
>David
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 11:25:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Allan Wright <aew>
To: wwi
Subject: Web Search Under Construction
Message-ID: <200102021625.LAA28477@pease1.sr.unh.edu>

Hi everyone,

   I have installed a vastly improved search engine on the website. The
old system just did a brute-force search of all the files, which in the case
of the archives not only crippled my desktop but also made the web user wait
for an unacceptably long time. The new system uses a true database engine 
and should be much faster and also not cripple my desktop while you search.

   The search for HTML pages is currently working. The mail archive search
is currently doing a database index of the over 3000 digests, which will 
take a while to complete. As soon as the index is complete I will enable that
search too. 

   I plan to re-index the search databases once a week. I'd like to do it every
day but I'm afraid that might put undue load on my computer during work-days.

   I hope this helps you all use the great information stored in the digests
better now. I know searching was prohibitively slow in the past. Please 
report any strange behavior to me.

Thanks,
Allan

===============================================================================
Allan Wright Jr.            |      "I Played the Fool" - Southside Johnny
University of New Hampshire +--------------------------------------------------
Research Computing Center   | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu 
Internet: aew@unh.edu       | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu
===============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 10:24:56 -0600
From: Lee <lemen@x25.net>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Re: More paint Questions
Message-ID: <3A7ADF58.4060502@x25.net>

Tins are poorly made and it is to easy to damage the edge antd the seal 
will fail.  Bottles have always been better,  They make is simple to 
keep the sealing surfaces clean and tight, but, they are more expensive.

Lee M

Crawford Neil wrote:

> So whats wrong with Humbrol tins? Enquiring minds need to
> know, and so on.
> /Neil
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Suvoroff@aol.com [mailto:Suvoroff@aol.com]
>> Sent: den 2 februari 2001 13:27
>> To: Multiple recipients of list
>> Subject: Re: More paint Questions
>> 
>> 
>> I thin Humbrols with those little bottles of Testors paint 
>> thinner you find 
>> in the five and dime - its expensive, but I need the little 
>> bottles.  I can't 
>> stand the Humbrols tins so I decant them into the little 
>> bottles instead.
>> 
>> Yours,
>> James D. Gray
>> 


------------------------------

End of WWI Digest 3036
**********************