WWI Digest 3020 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Request_for_metal_color_formul=E6;__w?= by "diaphus" 2) Re: Petrol Tanks by "David Vosburgh" 3) Re: Re: Request for metal color =?ISO-8859-1?Q?formul=E6=3B?= w by Lee 4) Re: S.V.A. - 5 kits by Allan Wright 5) Your fav by "Steven M.Perry" 6) Your Fav, post SEND buton thought by "Steven M.Perry" 7) =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Re:_Request_for_metal_color_formul=E6;__w?= by "diaphus" 8) Re:Sierra Models by pugs99@att.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 11:06:10 -0500 From: "diaphus" To: Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Request_for_metal_color_formul=E6;__w?= Message-ID: <002e01c08944$3b6db1c0$5a551a18@tampabay.rr.com> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 10:11 AM Subject: Request for metal color formulŠ; w > Anyone want to give a list of appropriate paints and paint blends in order to > achieve colors of different metals? > --Or should I just go to the archives for this? > Thanks, > Steve diGiacomo > Steve, IMHO, the best metallizer I have used bar none is SnJ Metal Products Aluminum. It comes as a kit, and you get two bottles of a spray base with metal particles in it, a container of aluminum dust, and a rubbing cloth. The spray base is sprayed on without thinner. You build this up gradually in coats until you get a soft buffable aluminum color. While the kit instructions indicate waiting an hour or more between coats and overnight for full drying, I can tell you from a lot of practice that it dries enough to be recoated in about 20 minutes and to the touch in about two hours. Unlike most metallizers I've used, when dry it ABSOLUTELY will not pick up fingerprints! It dries very hard! You can tape and decal over it without problem. You can change base colors by adding small amounts of black or gray or white paint. And, if you need a lustrous aluminum, you put a small amount of the aluminum powder (BE CAREFUL, this stuff is really powdered and floats around easily. Use a respirator!) on a QTip and rub into the base. You can buff up to a very lustrous metal finish using the soft cloth. To get different panels and colors, I simply mask off the section I want to work on and use artists chalks to achieve different tints. There are only two dawbacks I have experienced with this stuff. One, after you use a certain amount of the spray (about 1/2 bottle in my experience), there is a apparently some sort of oxidation reaction which renders the remainder unfit for use if left on the shelf for any length of time. Two, and this is true for any metallizer, your painted surface must be PERFECTLY smooth. Any scratches or blemishes will stand out like the Grand Canyon against the metal finish! The "starter kit" runs about $12. I have only used the aluminum, but I believe it comes in several other colors as well. HTH, and I am in no way affiliated with this company :-)! Jack Gartner diaphus@tampabay.rr.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 11:41:15 -0500 From: "David Vosburgh" To: "WWI Mailing List" Subject: Re: Petrol Tanks Message-ID: <000d01c08949$36b62ae0$5bed19ce@Pvosburg> DC writes: <> Thanks, David. This would explain the silver appearance that Merrill mentioned... guess I'll go with that along with the black bands a la DB's photos in the archives. DV PS - A couple of years ago I used to maintain a list of all the Daves on the list... I think we were up to thirteen at that point (Burke to Zulis). I guess I should probably update it, huh? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 10:51:25 -0600 From: Lee To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Re: Request for metal color =?ISO-8859-1?Q?formul=E6=3B?= w Message-ID: <3A744E0D.5070709@x25.net> --------------080306020905030305090500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit For a paint that tends to oxidize rapidly when less tha full try this. It can work well. When you are ready to ca0p it up , every time, pick up the bottle in one hand and blow, a long breath, gently into the top of the bottle and recap it quickly. You will replace the oxygen in the bottle with CO2 and it does help. I have done this for years and it works for me. diaphus wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "Multiple recipients of list" > Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 10:11 AM > Subject: Request for metal color formulŠ; w > > >> Anyone want to give a list of appropriate paints and paint blends in order > > to > >> achieve colors of different metals? >> --Or should I just go to the archives for this? >> Thanks, >> Steve diGiacomo >> > Steve, > > IMHO, the best metallizer I have used bar none is SnJ Metal Products > Aluminum. It comes as a kit, and you get two bottles of a spray base with > metal particles in it, a container of aluminum dust, and a rubbing cloth. > > The spray base is sprayed on without thinner. You build this up gradually > in coats until you get a soft buffable aluminum color. While the kit > instructions indicate waiting an hour or more between coats and overnight > for full drying, I can tell you from a lot of practice that it dries enough > to be recoated in about 20 minutes and to the touch in about two hours. > Unlike most metallizers I've used, when dry it ABSOLUTELY will not pick up > fingerprints! It dries very hard! You can tape and decal over it without > problem. > > You can change base colors by adding small amounts of black or gray or white > paint. And, if you need a lustrous aluminum, you put a small amount of the > aluminum powder (BE CAREFUL, this stuff is really powdered and floats around > easily. Use a respirator!) on a QTip and rub into the base. You can buff > up to a very lustrous metal finish using the soft cloth. > > To get different panels and colors, I simply mask off the section I want to > work on and use artists chalks to achieve different tints. > > There are only two dawbacks I have experienced with this stuff. One, after > you use a certain amount of the spray (about 1/2 bottle in my experience), > there is a apparently some sort of oxidation reaction which renders the > remainder unfit for use if left on the shelf for any length of time. Two, > and this is true for any metallizer, your painted surface must be PERFECTLY > smooth. Any scratches or blemishes will stand out like the Grand Canyon > against the metal finish! > > The "starter kit" runs about $12. I have only used the aluminum, but I > believe it comes in several other colors as well. > > HTH, and I am in no way affiliated with this company :-)! > > Jack Gartner > diaphus@tampabay.rr.com > > --------------080306020905030305090500 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For a paint that tends to oxidize rapidly when less tha full try this.  It can work well.

When you are ready to ca0p it up , every time, pick up the bottle in one hand and blow, a long breath, gently into the top of the bottle and recap it quickly.  You will replace the oxygen in the bottle with CO2 and it does help.  I have done this for years and it works for me.

diaphus wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: <Stephendigiacomo@aol.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of list" <wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 10:11 AM
Subject: Request for metal color formulæ; w


Anyone want to give a list of appropriate paints and paint blends in order
to
achieve colors of different metals?
--Or should I just go to the archives for this?
Thanks,
Steve diGiacomo

Steve,

IMHO, the best metallizer I have used bar none is SnJ Metal Products
Aluminum. It comes as a kit, and you get two bottles of a spray base with
metal particles in it, a container of aluminum dust, and a rubbing cloth.

The spray base is sprayed on without thinner. You build this up gradually
in coats until you get a soft buffable aluminum color. While the kit
instructions indicate waiting an hour or more between coats and overnight
for full drying, I can tell you from a lot of practice that it dries enough
to be recoated in about 20 minutes and to the touch in about two hours.
Unlike most metallizers I've used, when dry it ABSOLUTELY will not pick up
fingerprints! It dries very hard! You can tape and decal over it without
problem.

You can change base colors by adding small amounts of black or gray or white
paint. And, if you need a lustrous aluminum, you put a small amount of the
aluminu! m powder (BE CAREFUL, this stuff is really powdered and floats around
easily. Use a respirator!) on a QTip and rub into the base. You can buff
up to a very lustrous metal finish using the soft cloth.

To get different panels and colors, I simply mask off the section I want to
work on and use artists chalks to achieve different tints.

There are only two dawbacks I have experienced with this stuff. One, after
you use a certain amount of the spray (about 1/2 bottle in my experience),
there is a apparently some sort of oxidation reaction which renders the
remainder unfit for use if left on the shelf for any length of time. Two,
and this is true for any metallizer, your painted surface must be PERFECTLY
smooth. Any scratches or blemishes will stand out like the Grand Canyon
against the metal finish!

The "starter kit" runs about $12. I have only used the aluminum, but I
believe it comes in several other colors as well.

H! TH, and I am in no way affiliated with this company :-)!

Jack Gartner
diaphus@tampabay.rr.com



--------------080306020905030305090500-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 11:56:27 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: S.V.A. - 5 kits Message-ID: <200101281656.LAA10197@pease1.sr.unh.edu> Pegasus did an Ansaldo SVA-5 Al > > On the 26 January 2001 Brian Nicklas wrote: > > >>> Does anyone know of any others in the small scale ? > > >> In resin, Choroszy Modelbud. > >> Matt Bittner > > > I believe this was reviewed in the recent Windsock Magazine. > > Are you going to compare/contrast them all for us Alberto? > > Brian > > It is easily said, Brian: the kits Matt referred to (by Choroszy Modelbud) > are the best. But they are resin and I personally don't like that kind of > media. Amongst those in plastic, although it may seem strange, the old > Airframe is still the best in my view, as its fuselage is better than the > one of the other two. > > What about a new SVA-5, Eduard ? Sierra ? Roden ? If you need references > just ask !!!! > > Alberto Casirati > =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | "I Played the Fool" - Southside Johnny University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:21:25 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Your fav Message-ID: <000901c0894e$bf312fa0$b1f1aec7@default> It's been a while since a similar thread, so let me ask: What, to you, is the most asthetically pleasing OT airplane? Not the best in any quantifiable terms, just what personally pleases your eye the most. Crud, now I gotta think of one.......................................Dang, so many, Hmmmm.............................Well if you're like me and can't single one out, pick several ;-) SVA.5 SE.5a Albatros D.II Nieuport 28 (Sq.Yds. of ripped fabric is quantifiable Ernie; I never said it wasn't purty -) sp waiting to see a response and slap my forhead "Why didn't I think of that?" ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:29:09 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Your Fav, post SEND buton thought Message-ID: <001301c0894f$d36f91e0$b1f1aec7@default> What, to you, is the most asthetically pleasing OT airplane? HEY LURKERS: This one is pure opinion and y'all have one too, let's hear it. Experience, knowledge and modeling ability have nothing to do with this. If you have enough interest to read this List, you have an opinion on this one and we'd all like to hear it. So sing out sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:29:43 -0500 From: "diaphus" To: Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Re:_Request_for_metal_color_formul=E6;__w?= Message-ID: <005101c0894f$e72d47e0$5a551a18@tampabay.rr.com> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 11:53 AM Subject: Re: Re: Request for metal color formulŠ; w > > --------------080306020905030305090500 > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > For a paint that tends to oxidize rapidly when less tha full try this. > It can work well. > > When you are ready to ca0p it up , every time, pick up the bottle in one > hand and blow, a long breath, gently into the top of the bottle and > recap it quickly. You will replace the oxygen in the bottle with CO2 > and it does help. I have done this for years and it works for me. > Lee, Makes sense. I'll have to try it, especially with my Testor's paints, which seem to go bad much more quickly than Humbrol and Floquil. Thanks! Jack Gartner diaphus@tampabay.rr.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 17:35:52 +0000 From: pugs99@att.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re:Sierra Models Message-ID: <20010128173553.WVFV28450.mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net@webmail.worldnet.att.net> Hi Tom, Recently picked up a Sierra Roland D.VI from Bob for a client and I must say it is one of the best vac forms I have ever seen. I have't started working on it yet(my client is very ill), but it looks to be a very nice build. I would heartily recommend a Sierra Vac. Regards, John Impenna > WWI Digest 3018 > > Topics covered in this issue include: > > 1) Re: Austro Hungarian navy flying boats > by =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= > 2) Re: New nifty and cheap almost OT acquisitions > by "John & Allison Cyganowski" > 3) Re: Sniffing the air... > by "Matt Bittner" > 4) Morane pictures > by Marc Flake > 5) Re: Morane pictures > by "Matt Bittner" > 6) USN/USMC aircraft > by Friedrich Kappes > 7) Sierra Models > by "TOM PLESHA" > 8) Re: Sierra Models > by "Matt Bittner" > 9) Re: Sierra Models > by "Steven M.Perry" > 10) Re: Sierra Models > by "TOM PLESHA" > 11) Re: Sierra Models > by MAnde72343@aol.com > 12) Re: London Calling.... > by Ernest Thomas > 13) RE: London Calling.... > by =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= > 14) Welcome back > by "Francisca e Pedro Soares" > 15) Re: USN/USMC aircraft > by "Tom Solinski" > 16) RE: Sierra Models > by "Ray Boorman" > 17) Re: springs > by Morg17ms@aol.com > 18) Re: OOOPS > by Morg17ms@aol.com > 19) Re: Sierra Models > by "aa8." > 20) Re: Sierra Models > by "Matt Bittner" > 21) Re: Sierra Models > by "Steven M.Perry" > 22) Re: Sniffing the air... > by KarrArt@aol.com > 23) Re: Sopwith and Giants cookup > by KarrArt@aol.com > 24) Re: OOOPS He Did It Again, More Tom Morgan On Hyperscale > by KarrArt@aol.com > 25) am I subscribed? > by "Limon3" > 26) Re: am I subscribed? > by MAnde72343@aol.com > 27) Re: am I subscribed? > by Todd Hayes > 28) Petrol Tanks > by "David Vosburgh" > 29) Re: Petrol Tanks > by MAnde72343@aol.com > 30) Re: am I subscribed? > by "TOM PLESHA" > 31) Re: am I subscribed? > by "Bob Pearson" > 32) Re: Sierra Models > by Dennis Ugulano > 33) Re: Sierra Models > by "aa8." > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 21:22:14 +0800 > From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: Austro Hungarian navy flying boats > Message-ID: <001701c08865$84195120$7f01010a@jaring.my> > > Andy, > > concerning your question: > > I am after information on Austro Hungarian navy flying boats. > > I have on order both the Joystick Phoenix A boat and Sierra's HB W.18. > > According to my ancient Harleyford Marine Aircraft Volume The two boats > were > > closely related, but it isn't too clear on how. > > Can anyone out there help me fill in this grey area?" > > and the later enquiry on the CC series as well: > > Actually, the origin of the Phoenix series is a myth that has been repeated > time and time again, including the Joystick instructions and some quite > recent publications. In reality, there were 2 independent, not related > series of fighter flying boats in AH: > > - The Heinkel/Brandenburg series (designer/manufacturer) > - The Mickl/Oeffag/Phoenix series (designer/manufacturers) > > First on the Heinkel series: > > First Heinkel (but not AH - see below) fighter flying boat was the > Brandenburg "CC". Named after Camillo Castiglioni, the famous AH financier > and owner or in control of Phoenix, UFAG and Brandenburg (and also involved > in Lohner). Star Strutter layout like the Brandenburg D I . Only build by > Brandenburg, as were the derivative W 17 (cantilever biplane), W 18 > (standard single bay wing design) and W 23 (canon armed fighter) designs. > The CC was build both for the German and the AH navy, the W 18 only for > Autria-Hungary. The CC had a good reputation with both friend and foe, quite > surprisingly when compared to the other starstrutter, the Brandenburg D I. > if AH statistics are believed, the CC achieved 5 victories, with only ona > a/c lost in combat. On the other hand, the later W 18 also achieved 5 > victories (some of them rather questionable), but 5 were lost in combat. In > general, the AH fighter flying boats maybe had a better reputation than the > one they actually deserved. > > On to the Mickl series: > > First Mickl and AH flying boat fighters were the 3 Albatros (Austria, not > Germany - the company was later renamed Phoenix) A 1 to A 3 flying boats of > 1915/16, which were singular in being driven by a Gnome rotary engine. A > complete failure, but Mickl continued with the famous Oeffag A 11, > Banfield's "Blauer Vogel" (Blue Bird). No series production in spite of what > is claimed a superior performance to the CC. Mickl then designed some > prototypes build by Phoenix (A 105/106), which led to the Phoenix A 119-130 > and the final development, the A 131 series. > > As you can see, the Phoenix flying boat fighters were NOT connected to the > Brandenburgs. They also differed CONSIDERABLY in design (three piece vs. one > piece upper wing, radiator and strut layout, weight and dimensions (this > sometimes being quoted wrongly in publications) etc. > > It seems the Brandenburg designs were inferior in performance to the Mickl > designs; however, the only Mickl flying boat fighter that actually achieved > some operational success was the single A 11, flown between October 1916 and > August 1918. Even then, Banfield achieved only one CONFIRMED victory on this > a/c (but claimed another 4 with it, as well as one with the Albatros A 3 - > all not confirmed). > > In addition to the models you mentioned (and I was not aware of the Sierra W > 18 before), there are also models of the CC (Classic Plane vac, quite nice) > and A 11 (Czechmasters, also under the Artur and OeFH label). there's also a > resin of some dubious origion of the A 119 (I gues HR/Hora is behind that > one), but it is obviously based on the Joystick vac. > > HTH > > Volker > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 09:00:11 -0500 > From: "John & Allison Cyganowski" > To: > Subject: Re: New nifty and cheap almost OT acquisitions > Message-ID: <006c01c08869$78305170$d638183f@cyrixp166> > > Martina Navrtalova? > > Cyg. :-) > > > > Now, if only some pretty, blonde-haired, blue-eyed svelt Czech babe > could > > come over . . . to help me read the Czech instructions, of course. > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 08:19:41 -0600 > From: "Matt Bittner" > To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" > Subject: Re: Sniffing the air... > Message-ID: <200101271419.GAA25755@harrier.prod.itd.earthlink.net> > > On Sat, 27 Jan 2001 06:25:47 -0500 (EST), Suvoroff@aol.com wrote: > > > Hmmm....A faint odor of brimstone remains, but it appears to be rapidly > > clearing. > > YES! Welcome back, James!! > > However, before you tackle anything WW1, you *must* finish the SB... > :-) > > > Matt Bittner > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 08:45:49 -0600 > From: Marc Flake > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Morane pictures > Message-ID: <3A72DF1D.6427@airmail.net> > > I had started out working on three submarine models, but while I was > waiting for the putty to dry, I pulled out the HR Morane H. When it was > ready for painting, I decided to assemble the HR Morane L, since it > would be painted the same color. Now, I'm thinking I might as well > build the Eastern Express Morane I, too. The subs are back in their > boxes while I look for proper brass mounting pedestals. > > So, yes, Matt, I anticipate adding three Moranes soon. You won't have > to wait long, just a few more weeks. There'll be another Fokker (Eduard > D VIII-finished) and a couple more ground vehicles (Reviresco armored > cars), too. > > Marc > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 08:51:18 -0600 > From: "Matt Bittner" > To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" > Subject: Re: Morane pictures > Message-ID: <200101271452.GAA13020@gull.prod.itd.earthlink.net> > > On Sat, 27 Jan 2001 09:50:16 -0500 (EST), Marc Flake wrote: > > > I had started out working on three submarine models, but while I was > > waiting for the putty to dry, I pulled out the HR Morane H. When it was > > ready for painting, I decided to assemble the HR Morane L, since it > > would be painted the same color. Now, I'm thinking I might as well > > build the Eastern Express Morane I, too. The subs are back in their > > boxes while I look for proper brass mounting pedestals. > > Excellent! I can't decide, lately, if Morane or Nieuport is my > favorite WW1 aircraft producer's. :-) > > > So, yes, Matt, I anticipate adding three Moranes soon. You won't have > > to wait long, just a few more weeks. There'll be another Fokker (Eduard > > D VIII-finished) and a couple more ground vehicles (Reviresco armored > > cars), too. > > Cool, can't wait to see 'em! > > > Matt Bittner > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: 27 Jan 01 15:57:16 MET > From: Friedrich Kappes > To: <1ww@yahoogroups.com>, > Subject: USN/USMC aircraft > Message-ID: <20010127145716.9829.qmail@www0n.netaddress.usa.net> > > Can anybody give me the dates of entry into sservice of these aircraft? > - Curtiss N2C-2 > - Dayton-Wright SDW-1 > - Loening M.81 > - Naval Aircraft Factory N3N-3 > - North American NJ-1 > Thank you in advance > > > Friedrich > The FriedrichFiles > > http://sites.netscape.net/friedkappes > Lots of nice links, pictures (photos, drawings, ...), book reviews, literature > aids, a dictionary,... > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at > http://home.netscape.com/webmail > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:02:00 -0500 > From: "TOM PLESHA" > To: > Subject: Sierra Models > Message-ID: <000501c08872$1ad21a00$24434c0c@tom> > > Hi > Anyone care to comment on Sierra 1/48 Vacuform models. I have never built > nor seen one. The opportunity has arisen to obtain one of their kits. > thanks > T P > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 09:02:43 -0600 > From: "Matt Bittner" > To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > Message-ID: <200101271502.HAA04578@gull.prod.itd.earthlink.net> > > On Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:03:17 -0500 (EST), TOM PLESHA wrote: > > > Anyone care to comment on Sierra 1/48 Vacuform models. I have never built > > nor seen one. The opportunity has arisen to obtain one of their kits. > > I'll comment on Sierra overall. There are two excellent vac makers for > WW1 aircraft (at least in 1/72nd) - Rosemont and Sierra. Quality is > very high and I hear assembly is relatively easy (although I have yet > to build a Sierra kit). You can't go wrong with Sierra... > > Now if they would just release more French subjects in 1/72nd... :-) > > > Matt Bittner > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:18:01 -0500 > From: "Steven M.Perry" > To: > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > Message-ID: <002601c08874$57268520$5ff1aec7@default> > > > > Hi > > Anyone care to comment on Sierra 1/48 Vacuform models. I have never built > > nor seen one. The opportunity has arisen to obtain one of their kits. > > thanks > > T P > > I built the Sierra Spad A.2 and I have the DFW C.V unbuilt in the pile. The > Spad was an excellent kit and the DFW looks the same. > > My only problem is the double sided vac wings. They take a lot of work to > get thin enough to look realistic. This is nothing against Bob or his Sierra > kits. It is merely a comment on 1:48 double sided vac wings in general. I > had the same problem with the wings on my Tom's D.II. Skinning the bottom > with embossed 5 or 10 thou card seems a workable alternative. I'm replacing > the D.II wings with resin ones thanks to a Listmembers generosity. In my > opinion the best way to go in 1/48 models is a vac fuselage and resin flying > surfaces. Near scale thickness fuselage walls with plenty of interior > detailing room and razor sharp resin wings. > > If Bob produces a Sierra vac of the subject you want, don't hesitate to snap > it up. It will take a truly exceptional injection molded or resin kit to > beat it. Recommended without hesitation. > sp > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:26:30 -0500 > From: "TOM PLESHA" > To: > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > Message-ID: <000d01c08875$869a8a80$24434c0c@tom> > > I appreciate the response. I forgot to mention there are some sierra's > available on e-bay. > thanks again > TP > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Bittner" > To: "Multiple recipients of list" > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 10:05 AM > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > > > > On Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:03:17 -0500 (EST), TOM PLESHA wrote: > > > > > Anyone care to comment on Sierra 1/48 Vacuform models. I have never > built > > > nor seen one. The opportunity has arisen to obtain one of their kits. > > > > I'll comment on Sierra overall. There are two excellent vac makers for > > WW1 aircraft (at least in 1/72nd) - Rosemont and Sierra. Quality is > > very high and I hear assembly is relatively easy (although I have yet > > to build a Sierra kit). You can't go wrong with Sierra... > > > > Now if they would just release more French subjects in 1/72nd... :-) > > > > > > Matt Bittner > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:31:22 EST > From: MAnde72343@aol.com > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > Message-ID: > > > --part1_f7.6f1f04f.27a443ca_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > The best, at least AFAIK; often the best MODEL of the type available. The > 1/48 Albatros CV I did for the Cookup was a Sierra, it was easier to build > than many "limited production" injection kits. > Merrill > > > > --part1_f7.6f1f04f.27a443ca_boundary > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > The best, at least AFAIK; often > the best MODEL of the type available. The >
1/48 Albatros CV I did for the Cookup was a Sierra, it was easier to build >
than many "limited production" injection kits. >
Merrill >
>
> > --part1_f7.6f1f04f.27a443ca_boundary-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 09:51:43 -0600 > From: Ernest Thomas > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: London Calling.... > Message-ID: <3A72EE8F.54227816@bellsouth.net> > > > > Michael Kendix wrote: > (reminisce about the > > film "Up the Junction"). > > I was wondering why this was all sounding like that Squeeze song. > Thanks for the tips Mike, and Volker. I will pass them along to Hilton, > who should have no problems walking the commom at night as 1) He's an > american lawyer(a ferocious beast indeed), and 2) he's also a good seven > feet tall. Any brigands or highwaymen better better think twice before > tangling with him. > E. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2001 21:27:42 +0700 > From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: RE: London Calling.... > Message-ID: > > Ernest, > > just to be sure: Tony James/TeeJay and Comet Miniatures are actually all the > same. Sorry I did not remember the new name of his shop. I think Comet are > his own resin SciFi thingies... > > Volker > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > Ernest Thomas > Sent: 27 January 2001 22:53 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: London Calling.... > > > > > Michael Kendix wrote: > (reminisce about the > > film "Up the Junction"). > > I was wondering why this was all sounding like that Squeeze song. > Thanks for the tips Mike, and Volker. I will pass them along to Hilton, > who should have no problems walking the commom at night as 1) He's an > american lawyer(a ferocious beast indeed), and 2) he's also a good seven > feet tall. Any brigands or highwaymen better better think twice before > tangling with him. > E. > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 16:17:36 -0000 > From: "Francisca e Pedro Soares" > To: > Subject: Welcome back > Message-ID: <006701c0887c$aaa47240$f4f441c2@pc1> > > Glad to see some known names back again on the roll call. > > Welcome home. > > Pedro > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 11:51:01 -0600 > From: "Tom Solinski" > To: > Subject: Re: USN/USMC aircraft > Message-ID: <003a01c08889$b685e820$12330e18@Solinski.okc1.ok.home.com> > > > > > Can anybody give me the dates of entry into sservice of these aircraft? > > Bust guesses > > - Curtiss N2C-2 > Mid to late 1930's > > - Dayton-Wright SDW-1 > no data > > - Loening M.81 > no data > > - Naval Aircraft Factory N3N-3 > 1936-1960 > > - North American NJ-1 > no data > HTH a little > > Tom S > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:13:29 -0800 > From: "Ray Boorman" > To: > Subject: RE: Sierra Models > Message-ID: > > Got to agree with Matt on this, I would love to see a Nieuport 6h. probably > never happen but it would be a pretty airplane. > > Ray > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > > Matt Bittner > > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 7:06 AM > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > > > > > > On Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:03:17 -0500 (EST), TOM PLESHA wrote: > > > > > Anyone care to comment on Sierra 1/48 Vacuform models. I have > > never built > > > nor seen one. The opportunity has arisen to obtain one of their kits. > > > > I'll comment on Sierra overall. There are two excellent vac makers for > > WW1 aircraft (at least in 1/72nd) - Rosemont and Sierra. Quality is > > very high and I hear assembly is relatively easy (although I have yet > > to build a Sierra kit). You can't go wrong with Sierra... > > > > Now if they would just release more French subjects in 1/72nd... :-) > > > > > > Matt Bittner > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:01:14 EST > From: Morg17ms@aol.com > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: springs > Message-ID: <14.eed0ac2.27a474fa@aol.com> > > Matt - I'm sure you could find an application for the spring-wire somewhere > in your scale. Let me know if you want me to send some to you - no problem > if you want. > > Tom Morgan > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:05:15 EST > From: Morg17ms@aol.com > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: OOOPS > Message-ID: > > Nigel - I'm a urologist.......can't lower the tone any more than that!! It > may be piss to you but it's bread and butter to me. > > Tom Morgan > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 18:58:57 -0000 > From: "aa8." > To: > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > Message-ID: <001501c08893$556ab340$5b0e3c3e@tinypc> > > For a long time Sierra listed a 1/48th scale Rumpler C.IV. I would do a lot > to get that released. I E-mail Bob Norgren about it periodically but he > declines to commit himself. > His Web Site does say that the next release will be a Gotha G.I in both > scales. I'll have both of them. I have a number of Sierra kits in my 'to do' > pile. They are my favourite of the small manufacturers. I have on the bench > beside me the Phoenix D.II. It cut out perfectly and is going together > better than many short run injection kits and resins. Bob's kit masters must > be a work of art. > I can completely recomend Sierra kits > Andy Jones > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Ray Boorman > To: Multiple recipients of list > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 6:22 PM > Subject: RE: Sierra Models > > > > Got to agree with Matt on this, I would love to see a Nieuport 6h. > probably > > never happen but it would be a pretty airplane. > > > > Ray > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > > > Matt Bittner > > > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 7:06 AM > > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > > > > > > > > > On Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:03:17 -0500 (EST), TOM PLESHA wrote: > > > > > > > Anyone care to comment on Sierra 1/48 Vacuform models. I have > > > never built > > > > nor seen one. The opportunity has arisen to obtain one of their kits. > > > > > > I'll comment on Sierra overall. There are two excellent vac makers for > > > WW1 aircraft (at least in 1/72nd) - Rosemont and Sierra. Quality is > > > very high and I hear assembly is relatively easy (although I have yet > > > to build a Sierra kit). You can't go wrong with Sierra... > > > > > > Now if they would just release more French subjects in 1/72nd... :-) > > > > > > > > > Matt Bittner > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 13:12:40 -0600 > From: "Matt Bittner" > To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > Message-ID: <200101271912.LAA23076@swan.prod.itd.earthlink.net> > > On Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:21:49 -0500 (EST), Steven M.Perry wrote: > > > My only problem is the double sided vac wings. They take a lot of work to > > get thin enough to look realistic. This is nothing against Bob or his Sierra > > kits. It is merely a comment on 1:48 double sided vac wings in general. I > > had the same problem with the wings on my Tom's D.II. Skinning the bottom > > with embossed 5 or 10 thou card seems a workable alternative. I'm replacing > > the D.II wings with resin ones thanks to a Listmembers generosity. In my > > opinion the best way to go in 1/48 models is a vac fuselage and resin flying > > surfaces. Near scale thickness fuselage walls with plenty of interior > > detailing room and razor sharp resin wings. > > And a practical guarantee - for the size - of wing droop. Sorry, but I > don't agree with you at all, sp. Big wings should *not* be resin > (anything in 1/48th is big ;-). I like the way Barry has gone - vac > wings with everything else resin. That way you don't have to worry > about droop. > > If you doubt me, take a look at John Huggins' *1/72nd* CM Salmson. > > > Matt Bittner > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:37:42 -0500 > From: "Steven M.Perry" > To: > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > Message-ID: <012201c08898$9deaef40$5ff1aec7@default> > > > And a practical guarantee - for the size - of wing droop. Sorry, but I > > don't agree with you at all, sp. Big wings should *not* be resin > > (anything in 1/48th is big ;-). I like the way Barry has gone - vac > > wings with everything else resin. That way you don't have to worry > > about droop. > > > > If you doubt me, take a look at John Huggins' *1/72nd* CM Salmson. > > Seen it and cringed. I don't recommend resin wings be subjected to temps > above room temperature for any longer than necessary. My only problems with > drooping resin wings have been directly attributable to exposure to a heat > source. I've had several 1/48 models with resin wings and no droop problems. > Resin struts on the other hand are a whole nuther story, great for templates > to make scratchbuilt ones of the correct size and shape, but worthless for > support, > > Vac single surface wings are the greatest for 1:72, I love them. I'm just > too inept to do a proper job on double surface quarter scale ones. Barry > has the right idea in 1/72. The extra room in a vac fuselage is nice, but > the crispness of surface details in resin is especially nice (and needed) > in1/72. > > sp > sp > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:50:01 EST > From: KarrArt@aol.com > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: Sniffing the air... > Message-ID: > > In a message dated 1/27/01 3:23:24 AM Pacific Standard Time, Suvoroff@aol.com > writes: > > << Hmmm....A faint odor of brimstone remains, but it appears to be rapidly > clearing. > > Yours, > James D. Gray > >> > > Yes! > Good to see your name appear again! > RK > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:50:05 EST > From: KarrArt@aol.com > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: Sopwith and Giants cookup > Message-ID: > > In a message dated 1/26/01 4:43:03 PM Pacific Standard Time, > sljenkins@tac.com.au writes: > > << We're back! >> > > All right! > RK > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 15:02:19 EST > From: KarrArt@aol.com > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: OOOPS He Did It Again, More Tom Morgan On Hyperscale > Message-ID: > > In a message dated 1/27/01 4:18:36 AM Pacific Standard Time, > nigel@rosnar.demon.co.uk writes: > > << Mind you, Michael Jackson couldn't look any weirder, even > with a Zeppelin Staaken grafted on to his head. > > Sorry for lowering the tone, > > Nigel >> > > Thanks for another painting idea....... > RK > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 12:11:33 -0800 > From: "Limon3" > To: > Subject: am I subscribed? > Message-ID: <000401c0889d$58cdcfe0$d7f7303f@f4w2s5> > > I seem to have been bumped from the list, can someone reply if this gets > through. TKS > Gabe > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 15:14:14 EST > From: MAnde72343@aol.com > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: am I subscribed? > Message-ID: > > > --part1_d5.1924563.27a48616_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > came through fine, Gabe > Merrill > > > > --part1_d5.1924563.27a48616_boundary > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > came through fine, Gabe >
Merrill >
>
> > --part1_d5.1924563.27a48616_boundary-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 12:17:02 -0800 (PST) > From: Todd Hayes > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: am I subscribed? > Message-ID: <20010127201702.19599.qmail@web9006.mail.yahoo.com> > > I'm receiving it. > > Todd > > --- Limon3 wrote: > > I seem to have been bumped from the list, can > > someone reply if this gets > > through. TKS > > Gabe > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 15:22:45 -0500 > From: "David Vosburgh" > To: "WWI Mailing List" > Subject: Petrol Tanks > Message-ID: <002701c0889f$02dba2e0$41ed19ce@Pvosburg> > > Were the gas tanks on Camels (and presumably the Swallow, which is what I'm > working on) > natural metal or japanned? Was japanning fuel-proof? Inquiring minds want to > know. > > Belated thanks to all who answered my last question on cockpits, DB, Witold, > (great > photos, you guys!) SP, and especially Cyg. > > DV > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 15:36:31 EST > From: MAnde72343@aol.com > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: Petrol Tanks > Message-ID: <85.6213d01.27a48b4f@aol.com> > > > --part1_85.6213d01.27a48b4f_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > A good question, the oil tanks were covered with a dark glossy coat, enamel > or lacquer, but I don't know about the petrol tanks, the only photo in the DF > shows what might be white paint or natural metal on the ends (and only shows > the end). I'd like an answer to this myself, I've been painting them silver > for years, assuming they were aluminum, but they look to be steel. > Merrill > > > > --part1_85.6213d01.27a48b4f_boundary > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > A good question, the oil tanks > were covered with a dark glossy coat, enamel >
or lacquer, but I don't know about the petrol tanks, the only photo in the > DF >
shows what might be white paint or natural metal on the ends (and only shows >
the end). I'd like an answer to this myself, I've been painting them silver >
for years, assuming they were aluminum, but they look to be steel. >
Merrill >
>
> > --part1_85.6213d01.27a48b4f_boundary-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 15:40:12 -0500 > From: "TOM PLESHA" > To: > Subject: Re: am I subscribed? > Message-ID: <000f01c088a1$594e74c0$61434c0c@tom> > > Your on. > TP > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Limon3" > To: "Multiple recipients of list" > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 3:10 PM > Subject: am I subscribed? > > > > I seem to have been bumped from the list, can someone reply if this gets > > through. TKS > > Gabe > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 12:42:58 -0800 > From: "Bob Pearson" > To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Subject: Re: am I subscribed? > Message-ID: <200101272158.NAA00784@mail.rapidnet.net> > > Doesn't matter if we see it .. unsubscribed folks can still send messages.. > . therefore it is meaningless to reply 'Yes I see you". . .. as an > unsubscribed person WILL NOT SEE IT unless it is sent direct to them. in > order for him to see if he is still subscribed he needs to do a recipients > wwi request to listproc@pease1.sr.unh.edu > > Bob > > Who sent this offlist as well > > > > > --- Limon3 wrote: > >> I seem to have been bumped from the list, can > >> someone reply if this gets > >> through. TKS > >> Gabe > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 16:13:21 -0500 > From: Dennis Ugulano > To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > Message-ID: <200101271613_MC2-C354-989D@compuserve.com> > > Someone, > > Can some one give me the web site address of Sierra Models? If his > next release is the Gotha G.I, I do want to make sure I'm on the list to > get one. > > Thanks in Advance. > > Dennis Ugulano > email: Uggies@compuserve.com > http://members.nbci.com/Uggies/dju.htm > Page Revised 1/19/01 > "Each modeler will rise to their own level of masochism." > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 21:56:36 -0000 > From: "aa8." > To: > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > Message-ID: <002101c088ac$07051560$88193c3e@tinypc> > > Dennis > Try address below for Sierra. > There are some nice pictures of the finished product too. > http://sierrascale.hypermart.net > > I just can't wait for a Gotha G.I > Andy Jones > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Dennis Ugulano > To: Multiple recipients of list > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 9:18 PM > Subject: Re: Sierra Models > > > > Someone, > > > > Can some one give me the web site address of Sierra Models? If > his > > next release is the Gotha G.I, I do want to make sure I'm on the list to > > get one. > > > > Thanks in Advance. > > > > Dennis Ugulano > > email: Uggies@compuserve.com > > http://members.nbci.com/Uggies/dju.htm > > Page Revised 1/19/01 > > "Each modeler will rise to their own level of masochism." > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > End of WWI Digest 3018 > ********************** ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 3020 **********************